What wood to choose for my CAMPER🚐 KIT? - We compare 3 different types of wood

In this video we help you when choosing the wood for your camper kit.
Surely on some occasion you have asked yourself, what wood to choose for my CAMPER KIT?
Well, in this video we are going to show you some differences between raw plywood, plywood with HPL laminate and MDF or DM wood.
They are asking us many times why there are so many differences between the prices for camper kits for both large and small vans.
Here we have two samples of wood with which these types of camperisations are usually made for vans such as Citroen Berlingo, Peugeot Rifter, Opel Combo etc.
The first is MDF wood, which consists of pressed wood fibers. There are several manufacturers of camper kits that use it to manufacture the parts and modules. This sample is a 16mm MDF wood lacquered in the oven, that is to say, applying a layer of white paint in a professional way (not with a roller, spray or brush).
It has an excellent finish as you can see but it has several disadvantages:
The first is weight. A 16mm MDF board weighs about 35kg, so our kit made of this material would weigh about 170kg, discounting the scraps of the material and adding the mounting accessories.
Another disadvantage of this material is the low resistance to scratches, blows in occasional or intensive use. Both in its initial state of the board and in the case of the application of paint, in the long run, the pieces will wear out, requiring a lot of repair work on the kit.
The other type of wood that I want to talk to you about is the material that we exclusively use, it is poplar plywood covered with HPL. It consists of a 15mm 9-layer plywood board, covered by a high-pressure sheet on both sides through the cold-pressing process.
The main characteristic of the poplar plywood board is that it weighs very little, since a 120 x 250cm board has a weight of about 19kg, almost half that of the DM board.
And because many clients ask us for a budget to manufacture the kits in raw plywood board, that is, without HPL sheets, we are going to show you what happens with its low mechanical resistance that it has both if it is raw or painted.
We give a very extreme example passing the tip of a cutter without the blade through the material we can see the deep marks that it leaves in the 2 samples. It is practically affected by any slight blow. Even having a layer of varnish, as suggested by a client, the low scratch resistance of this material is evident.
We advise you to take this aspect into account when choosing to do it or have it done for you.
It has much less scratch resistance than DM board.
We recommend using the raw board in places where the van will not be seen or where it is not used daily.
Now we see what happens if we repeat the process in a poplar plywood with HPL sheets and in the lacquered DM sample.
We see the incredible mechanical resistance that laminate material has compared to painted DM.
It should also be noted that the difference in strength, hardness and weight between the 2 materials translates into high cost, as a laminated plywood board is worth up to 5 times more than a MDF board of the same size and thickness.
We only want you to value the difference in quality between the types of wood according to the durability you need for your kit in terms of the amount of use that you are going to give it. If you plan to use it frequently, you may still be interested in making a larger investment to guarantee durability and non-deterioration of the parts. Take into account the times it is assembled and disassembled, the use with children or pets, accessories that you are going to put in it (bikes, climbing equipment, canoeing etc.)
We leave each of you to make your assessment of the pros and cons of each of the materials. We respect all manufacturers of camper modules and surely each of them will choose the material according to their business objectives.
In our case, we choose the highest quality material to offer a guarantee against subsequent deterioration and to achieve the satisfaction of our customers.
Do not miss how we make a camper kit for a Citroen Berlingo XL van in the following link:
We want you to see How to make Citroen Berlingo camper kit furniture:
• ¿Cómo hacer muebles KI...
You can find all the information and contact methods on our website:
furgocamper.net/
Finally, we encourage you to subscribe to our KZbin channel where we will publish different videos on the subject and you will be able to see the different models of Kit to Camper vans that we are ordering and new ideas that can be of great help when it comes to choose how to make your camper kit for vans.
Until next time!

[@YhudaDnGaming2020]

great

[@furgocamper]

Thank you

[@Desarrolladorweb]

el audio horrible (los clicks y ruiditos), pero el video muy interesante, gracias

[@furgocamper]

Gracias por tu comentario, iremos solucionando problemas para el próximo video

[@yerayjesusalemanmoreno5287]

No todos los contrachapados en crudo se aruñan con facilidad como el que exponen en el video, hay algunos que ni con martillo se aruñan, pero claro es más bonito venderlos laminados jajajaj venga

[@furgocamper]

Hola Yeray, estábamos hablando hablando de contrachapado de chopo crudo...Enseñanos por favor un material crudo con el peso del chopo que aguanta a los martillos como dices tu y estaremos encantados de presentarlos a la gente. "Venderlo" con lamina es una opción, no obligación para que el cliente pueda comprarlo según sus necesidades y uso que le va a dar.

[@user-jq6wq7eg1m]

I'm Taiwanese, can you send it for me?

[@furgocamper]

It is impossible to send any wood at Taiwan!

[@Oskar_CII]

El contrachapado de chopo no aguanta bien el roscado y con el tiempo y las vibraciones se rompe. Una cosa es la resistencia externa y otra muy distinta la interna y el chopo no aguanta nada por mucho que se lamine. Si queréis poner algo resistente probar con el contrachapado de abedul. Siento deciros que los dos materiales que presentáis en el vídeo son lo peor para camperizar. Vale la pena gastar un poco más y tener muebles de por vida. Ah! y con esos dos materiales si tienes un accidente te vas comer tantos tableros, como tableros tengas puestos en la furgo.

[@furgocamper]

Hola Oscar Para exponer tu argumento y que sea creíble creemos que deberías demostrar con hechos (videos, experiencia como profesional del sector) que el contrachapado de abedul es mejor que el chopo para camperizar. En nuestra humilde experiencia cómo profesionales del sector, hemos utilizado el contrachapado de abedul para camperizar SOLAMENTE estructuras muy muy simples y nunca furgonetas grandes, medianas o pequeñas. MUY pocas empresas serias que se dedica a camperizar utilizan el abedul como material base. Le gente tiene que saber que el PESO de abedul es casi el doble que el chopo cosa que en el sector CAMPER, es IMPRESCINDIBLE. En cuanto al "mito" de los tornillos que se salen podemos afirmar con toda la seguridad y nuestra experiencia nos la avala, que NUNCA se va a salir un tornillo de un contrachapado de chopo si se coloca de manera perpendicular al material es decir en la lamina de PVC perforando el material. Si, pierde resistencia si se coloca en el canto del material (cosa que nunca se deberia hacer ni siquiera en abedul, pues pueden aparecer grietas). A tus afirmaciones, invitamos a todos los que tienen curiosidad en probar los 2 materiales a nuestro taller para que salgan de dudas por si mismos. Lo del "accidente" es otra de tus afirmaciones que dejan mucho que desear y sin sentido. Nos encanta que la gente de su opinion pero para opniar sobre cosas profesionales hay que aportar datos cocretos y hechos que lo demuestre....otra cosa siendo, descalificar maneras de trabajar por intereses comerciales. Un saludo