How to Remove a Birfield Joint (The fast way) aka The Camo Method Toyota 4x4 Solid Axle

[@Tuner0186]

Hi WheeliePete. I have any '85 and really appreciate the Toyota vids. They are very well done. I look forward to more. Thanks, keep up the good work.

[@theninja001]

Thanks man, I haven't broken a birf yet, I have a light right foot, but getting dual cases soon, and might start breaking stuff with the compounded torque! Now I know how to do a trail fix!

[@NoodleTech]

not going to lie it was easier for me to remove the hub from the axle shaft and remove the shaft from knuckle. remove birfield from there, but thats just how i do it :) besides when i go into the axle, i dismantle everything and refresh it all up. but a nice video anyways man. all that matters is that it works :)

[@moegasim]

great video...especially how you took the time to point out small, but usually ignored, important pointers

[@WheeliePete]

Not sure when I will get to the locker video as I'm in the process of moving into a new shop with all the hassle and headache that goes along with that. You can find lots of good information on the web though and installation is pretty straight forward. A Spartan Locker is the best bang for your buck, but if you have the cash, a full Detroit Locker or Yukon Grizzly Locker is the way to go. Harder install, but a seriously stout piece of equipment.

[@WheeliePete]

There's a pretty technical procedure for setting up the shims that requires a special tool from Toyota, but you can fudge it if you have to. Maybe he didn't fool with the lower bearing shim stack? Get your hands on a factory service manual for your year of truck, you won't regret it, and you'll never use another manual ever again. The factory service manual is worth the money. Sometimes you can get an FSM online as a download also.

[@WheeliePete]

I'd love to see you try to R&R both birfields in under an hour by going through the wheel bearings. It's WAAAAAAAY faster (and cleaner) to take the knuckles off as a unit. You don't compromise or expose the wheel bearing setup either.

[@WheeliePete]

@S0Wicked Yup. The only reason I would ever take it off the other way is to replace the wheel bearings. You don't need to "pack" the knuckle with grease either. Just put a light coat around the inside of the knuckle to ward off rust and make sure the inside of your birfield joint is packed. A light smear on the brass bushing in the spindle also. All packing the knuckle with grease does is make it a friggin mess when you have to get the birf out.

[@WheeliePete]

The bottom bearing is a press fit on the kuckle bearing kingpin. Support the bearing (or clamp it in a vise since you're replacing it) and tap on the pin and it will come off. Make sure you put the bearing cap shims (thin flat metal plates that go between the bearing cap and the top of the knuckle) back on in the same order and placement they came off...they are IMPORTANT for setting preload and centering the knuckle to the axle housing.

[@WheeliePete]

2. The "30 Spline Outer" refers to the outer splines of the INNER axle shaft. Instead of necking down the shaft and doing 27 splines (stock spline count) they leave the diameter larger and give it 30 splines. A corresponding 30 spline female inner star inside the aftermarket birfield accepts the 30 spline inner axle shaft. The stub end of the aftermarket birfield (marfield, longfield, etc.) has the same spline count as stock so your factory locking hub fits right on.

[@drufzr600]

This video is exactly what I've been looking for! Thanks!

[@WheeliePete]

Okay, I see it now, I pulled out my factory service manual and I see the bolt/washer for the auto hubs. I thought they came in later with the IFS, but I guess they were available in the 84/85 trucks too. For the best bang for the buck I would suggest a rear locker (get a Spartan locker, just like a loc-rite only built better), then get an LC engineering header. I think the stock carb and manifold are just fine, if you add a cam, you really should pull the head and rplace the head gasket

[@WheeliePete]

Back to #1, you do need to check the bearing pre-load with a spring scale when you put it all back together. With new bearings, without the felt, ruber and metal seals on the back of the knuckle, it should take 6.6 - 13.2 pounds of force (29-59N) to move the knuckle when pulled from the eye of the steering arm with a spring scale (obvioulsy the tie-rod must be off...) Numbers are pulled directly from the 1985 Factory Service Manual. I just use a fish weigh scale as it has low pounds measure.

[@WheeliePete]

@TheMeetnasty1 I will be making a vid on the front axle seals soon. I'm in the process of doing a total rebuild on this front axle and the seals will be part of that. I can give you the punchline though - use the inner axle eco-seals that Marlin Crawler sells. They have way more sealing surface and are more flexible than toyota's seals. They pretty much cure gear oil leaks into your knuckles. I've used them and they work fantastic.

[@BassSniper209]

My brother used marlin lasted 10 yrs trail gear bout 11 months tran cases seals trail gear is trash

[@WheeliePete]

If it came off it will go back on. Try tipping the bearing towards the knuckle so the leading edge of the bearing will be slightly lower than the race, that should help you rock the knuckle on. Remember, you seat the lower bearing (which should be trapped on the lower bearing cap kingpin) first then rock the knuckle up and over of the top bearing.

[@ivansanjur6387]

Gracias, muy interesante,, bien fácil, el mejor que he visto.. Saludos desde Panamá..

[@WheeliePete]

Are you talking about the end of the birfield under the locking hub dial? If so, on the stock locking hubs, there should be a snapring, but I've never messed with the warn hubs so I don't know if that is a substitute specific for the warn hubs. I will be doing more toyota videos in the near future, working on moving into a new large shop that will also work for filmining more involved projects.

[@WheeliePete]

A rear locker is great because it will improve your traction by 50%. With an open differential front and rear you only get one wheel on each axle to spin when you lose traction, effectively, you have 2wd when you spin tires (one front, one rear) If you get a rear locker, both rear wheel are locked together under load so as long as one rear tire is on the ground you will keep moving forward. You will be amazed at where you can go with just a rear locker.

[@TheBucknasty22]

thank you. high steer was on my list of upgrades. i am a little unsure of how to change to the upgraded birfield were would be a good place to find that info?

[@jamescurtis1046]

Thanks Wheelie, I think I'll pass on the cam. Will start researching the locker but will wait on the install till after you finish your vid. Am working on replacing the bell cranks to repair my frozen e-brake and found a leaking rear axle seal. Gonna order seals from Marlin but wondering if the leaking gear lube damages the bearings and should it be replaced as well?

[@WheeliePete]

hooked to the steering arm eye and (without the back knuckle seals on and no birf) it should pull 6.6 - 13.2 lb to start the knuckle turning. That is straight from the factory service manual. If it is too tight or too loose you will need to add or subract shims to hit spec. it's a pretty loose tolerance 6.6 - 13.2 lbs so there usually isn't a problem unless someone loses shims.

[@WheeliePete]

If you are going to run 35's the mandatory upgrade is to put some Longfield birfield joints in your front end. I put a link to their website up in teh description. The next mandatory upgrade would be cross-over steering as the stock push/pull system will just start snapping the driver's side steering arm (the "J" arm) from the angle of steering due to the lift and the torque that the tires will put on the steering arms.

[@TheBucknasty22]

great videos man so i am making my toyota a better offroad threat. and had a question. should i upgrade when i run 35"s?

[@jamescurtis1046]

Wheelie- thanks much for the info. Much appreciated and will strongly take the recomendations into account as I embark on the restore. The motor will be overhauled and I like the cam idea very much but am concerned with messing with the motor specs. In your experience is this a tweak that won't mess with 22r longevity/dependability? Have you specific cam recomendation? Thanks for tip on drain plug mod. Ordered a couple and will be wrapping up my seal replacement job when received.

[@jamescurtis1046]

Yes- under the dial and at the end of the birf. Looking closer at my shop manual it shows this bolt and washer as unique to the auto locker the truck came with and the split ring on the manual locker. Excited to see the new vids. My truck is getting pretty tired and I've gotta start going through it. Gonna stick with the 22r but would you suggest any component upgrades (cam, manifold,carb...)? Its not a rock crawler just a weekend load hauler and get away machine.

[@WheeliePete]

continued from above... because in order to get the cam out you have to take off the rocker arm assembly and to get that off you have to remove all the head bolts. If you pull the head bolts you really should replace the head gasket. Good time to seal the front corners of the head/block/timing cover junction while you're in there. A mild cam and a header make for a nice performance bump. continued below...

[@archer8708]

love this doing sas in my 91 think this way is way easyer for sevice for sure!!

[@WheeliePete]

Should just be able to undo the nuts holding the arms on, remove the cone washers, and pop the arms off. Depending on the leaf spring setup you may have to remove the tie-rod / drag link ends. With high-steer arms (crossover steering) you don't have to disconnect the drag link or the tie-rod since they are both above the leaf springs, but if you have the stock push/pull steering you may have to remove the tie-rod to get the arm up high enough to clear the knuckle studs.

[@WheeliePete]

1. The bearing pre-load on the trunion bearings is dictated by the shims that go between the bearing cap on bottom or steering arm on top. When you pulled the knuckle apart I hope you kept the shims in order. To make this harder, the shims also serve to center the knuckle relative to the axle tubes. Torque on the knuckle studs (top and bottom) is 71 ft lbs per 1985 Factory Service Manual Not enough room to answer #2 so I'll just reply to this post to get more room...

[@WheeliePete]

Between this video and my other video on how to separate a birfield from the inner shaft, you've prety well got it covered on how to remove and replace a birfield. The new longfield just goes on in place of a stock birfield. Direct swap. For ultimate strength you can also replace the inner axle shafts with Bobby Long's chromoly ones. But in my opinion, the stock inner shafts should hold up just fine to 35's.

[@NoodleTech]

hmm i see how it can be faster. i rarely brake anything on the trail, ive never broke a birfield, so i have never had to do a emergency repair on the trail. but if i do i'll try your method first :)

[@WheeliePete]

I belive it will. I've never been into the 80's series front ends but I believe they are the same closed knuckle ball design. Someone jump in here and correct me if I'm wrong...

[@WheeliePete]

I get kind of torn on this issue. I like the fact that Trail Gear supplies the two metal plates that hold the felts and rubber seals on (other suppliers make you re-use your old ones) but the last time I checked Trail-gear was using chinese bearings. I know Sky-Manufacturing (S.O.R.D) sells the japanese bearings, and I think Marlin Crawler does also. You should be able to buy them from a beraing supplier with the part # (Koyo #TR0305A2F4)

[@frankmorales6861]

hi, just want to thank you for that wonderful idea...

[@WheeliePete]

You don't lose the shims for starters. The shims under the steering arm and lower bearing caps are there to #1 give proper pre-load and #2 center the knuckle to the axle housing. There is a fancy procedure to figure out the # of shims and stack order top and bottom, but if you're just putting it all back together the same way you should check the bearings by taking a pull scale (continued next comment...)

[@normanwjames]

I may be showing my ignorance here, but would this method work with an FJ/FZJ80 series LC front axle as well?

[@1450chaser]

thanks for putting this up, huge help!

[@dixiemudtoy]

Thanks pete, this is really helping me right now, as I am installing some chromoly axle shafts at the moment...I have a few questions for you: 1. what are the torque specs for the trunnion bearing plates (bottom plate / control arm plate)? I heard you need to use a special spring-loaded scale to measure play or something...is that true? 2. the chromolys are "dirty" 30 splines, supposedly with 30 spline outers, and are said to work with factory locking hubs...is that possible?

[@TheSmirf1234]

hey i was just curious by chance, i have a 85 yota with the strait axle and ive been noticing differential fluid leaking on the birfield joint its self. Is that possibly that seal you took off in the video?

[@jamescurtis1046]

Great info and really good video quality. Years ago I bought an abused 84 extra cab and replaced the destroyed auto hubs with Warn manual lockers. Didn't notice it then but I'm now replacing the inner seals using your method and see there is no split ring- just a bolt and washer in the end of the spindle I had to remove. Is this serving the same purpose as the split ring? Would love to see you do a video on manual clutch replacement. Any plans for more Toy videos? Thank you!

[@TheMeetnasty1]

Hay man, nice vid! can you make a vid, on front axle seals Please.

[@rayss3323]

Thx a bunch - great vid - hopefully I won't need it.

[@DontGetBoard]

You say that you recommend removing the whole axle if you were to break it while on the trail? Isn't one of many points of the manual hub to be able to free the axle so as you can keep going until you reach a good place to replace?

[@analog56x]

nice man haha, i was going to make a video about this too when i rebuilt my front axle :P cheers bud! btw, you should see my latest 4runner video! i have a 1994 4runner with a solid axle swap, and i just got the axles under it and wheels on. she looks AWESOME!

[@billygriffitts365]

Great tip. My question is my camber is out to the point that it’s rapidly wearing the outer portion of my tires. New trunion and wheel bearings,, spring bushings, drag link steering set up, any thoughts on the cause?

[@WheeliePete]

On a solid front axle Toyota the camber is fixed, there is no adjustment. The caster is also fixed, but can be sort of adjusted by angled shims between the front leaf springs and the mounts on the axle. You can adjust toe-in/out with the tie-rod. Are you running spacers or large offset backspacing on the wheels? Large tires, wheel spacers, and aftermarket rims can all contribute to strange tire wear. Another possibility is a bent axle housing. I would start with checking the toe-in/out. I think I run about 1/8" toe in on the leading edge of the rims compared to the back. I'm also runing 37" unbalanced swampers on a crawler so it rides like $*%& any way...lol

[@WheeliePete]

I would also only use Japanese-made bearings (Koyo bearings part # TR0305A2F4) the Chinese ones supplied with cheap rebuild kits are total crap and will fall apart on you. Make sure you are getting the actual Japanese bearings when you get a rebuild kit. Don't forget to install new bearing races too. I have a slick way of installing the races using a bicycle headset press I should make a quick video of that and post it.

[@WheeliePete]

@sox775 True, for stock birfs. Slap some Longfields in there from Longfieldsuperaxles (google it) and you're good to go for pretty much any size. I ran 37's HARD with lockers and a crawler for years on Bobby Long's products. It's not that the stock ones are weak, on the contrary, they are quite durable, it's just that Toyota hardened the material to make them durable, which makes them not take a shock load (spinning big tires) very well. In stock form on 31's they'll last forever.

[@WheeliePete]

I've done it both ways more times than I can count. But unless I'm replacing wheel bearings I always pull the entire knucle/spindle/hub as a single unit. Why go through all the hassle and mess of taking off the bearings if you don't have to? Once you do it a few times it's way faster to take off the whole assembly as a unit than tearing it down to the knuckle to get the birf out. If you've ever had to replace a birf in the middle of a trail, the last thing you want to do is a full dissassemble.

[@WheeliePete]

I don't off the top of my head. I've always bought them from Toyota. You're talking about the one on the end of the birfield stubshaft right? Marlin Crawler has them for sale too. They are pretty inexpensive.

[@robinfly7303]

Very cool. My FZJ80 has its steering arm at the bottom; does this method work on FZJ80 Birfield joint as well?

[@WheeliePete]

Yep, should work same idea. They are both closed knuckle systems held in place by the steering arm pins through the trunion bearings. I've never done one on an FZJ80, but it looks like the same type of setup.

[@JSCB-365]

Your Toyota Videos are great Do you have any more coming?

[@96hondarider]

How do u get the steering arm and upper arm off when the axle us still on the truck

[@monteoverton121]

Really helpful video. Thanks for sharing.

[@WheeliePete]

You might also want to check out my video on "How to remove a "Toyota 4x4 Birfield joint off an inner axle shaft".

[@ThePikeywayne]

Nice video, thanx for putting it up dude

[@TheLandy007]

i hope it works on the 80 series cruiser im doing mine tomorow and planning to use this technique..

[@WheeliePete]

@WheeliePete I've got a buddy who ran 39.5's on Longfield chromo's and he just abused them and they held up under his lead foot (3RZ in a buggy).

[@WheeliePete]

@TheSmirf1234 Nope, your inner axle seals are blown. I'll be doing a video shortly showing how to remove and replace the inner axle seals. It's easy once you have the knuckle off.

[@dixiemudtoy]

Pete, do you know the size of the snap ring holding in the outer birfield axle?

[@WheeliePete]

Again, that was with new bearings. If you are re-using bearings, then just make sure you put the shim stacks back in that you took off with the same ones on top and bottom.

[@WheeliePete]

I actually have mixed feelings about a cam. The stock cam is designed to work across a wide range of speeds. When you start swapping in different cams you are building the engine towards a specific use. Aftermarket cams are ground to produce different results, do you want torque? Do you want top end? You're going to sacrifice something in exchange. I'd start with the header and see how you like it. I really like the LC Engineering header for the 22R. I've used thorley too, but like LC more.

[@brickehansen1625]

G'day mate. Thanks for your videos 👍👍 they're great. I'm currently trying to put my short arm axle & cv back in & the bugger won't go. Any tricks you know of?

[@WheeliePete]

You're talking about putting the inner axle and the outer CV (Birfield) into the axle housing, right? It sometimes helps to have someone wiggle the front driveshaft a little while you are putting in the inner axle shaft to help it find the splines on the inner end of the inner shaft and the differential. Also, check the splines on that inner shaft and make sure they look good, nothing in them or dinged up that might prevent them from sliding into the differential splines.

[@brickehansen1625]

@@WheeliePete you're the man 👍👍 thanks again mate.

[@wilsoncho]

hi there, u know if nissan patrol y61 got similar set up? i need to do my inner shaft seal and hoping not to redo all bearings

[@onecargarage2129]

any way you could do a video on a IFS hub on a solid axle?

[@WheeliePete]

Although, the last time I tried that it was actually cheaper to buy Sky Manufacturing's rebuild kit that included the bearings than to buy the bearings individually from a supplier.

[@DontGetBoard]

Good to know, thanks for the reply!

[@mentalalex]

Good shit pete, thanks a bunch!

[@CharlesCo918]

Great video! Thank you!

[@MrPowers88]

I ended up bending the top trunion bearing cage when putting it back together it's really hard to get the axel lined up with the splines and the bottom trunion bearing to line up

[@dudeitsknate]

Sometimes if your cone washers are really stuck, I like to loosen the knuckle stud nuts and hop in the truck and crank the wheel back and forth. If there really stuck on there, ill go ram a few curbs. NOTE: Don't loosen the nuts too much or you will mess up your trunnion bearing. Only slightly loosen them.

[@patvasquez-cunningham8209]

Great video!

[@WheeliePete]

I will very soon. I moved into a property that has a nearly 1800 sqft shop so I'll have lots of room for projects.

[@WheeliePete]

Don't let anyone tell you they are dangerous on the snow/ice, with a mechanical locker, when you let go of the throttle, they differentiate just like an open differential. You just have to get used to driving them. I PREFER to drive with lockers on snow and ice. You really won't notice it's back there unless of course you hammer it in a corner and then you'll be barking the tires, you just get used to letting off the throttle going into a tight turn. I'm planning a video on a drop-in locker.

[@WheeliePete]

A broken birfield can bind and lock your steering in a turn even if the hubs are unlocked (ask me how I know, and yeah, it was scary as $*#&%). If you pull the broken birf, you might as well pull the axle too because it's only supported by the inner axle seal if it's not in the birf. The birf also keeps the inner axle from walking into the knuckle. If you went around a corner and the unsupported/un-retained inner axle migrated into the knuckle it could also cause some really nasty problems.

[@1973dusterkid]

I was wanting to ask I need to rebuild y knuckle on my 83 Toyota I am going with the marlin rebuild kit do you have a video or can you make a video on how to do a rebuild the upper bearing in my knuckle is in parts.

[@WheeliePete]

1973dusterkid Sorry, I don't currently have a video on the assembly of the knuckle and the trunion bearings. The important part is keeping track of the correct number of shims that are under the steering arm and lower bearing cap. Those shims set the knuckle bearing preload and also center the knuckle to the axle. There's a whole procedure for setting up those shims that involves a specific set of Toyota tools. You can still get a decent setup without it though. Search Toyota knuckle bearing setup and check out the information on Pirate4x4.com Of course, if your housing is a little bit bent all the setup in the world won't get it right and you just have to kind of fudge it and get the preload correct. Marlin's inner axle seals have enough movement in them to help overcome slightly bent housing to knuckle alignment.

[@MrPowers88]

This video was awesome great info but when putting it back together it's almost impossible to get it back together. You have to remove the bottom trunion bearing just take a little extra bread wipe it on the bottoms bearing so it stays in the race and bolt it back together. Besides that great video thank you

[@WheeliePete]

The bottom bearing should be press-fit onto the lower knuckle bearing cap pin. It should NOT be loose. If it comes off without driving the bearing cap down with a drift or press, something is wrong (bearing shot, cap pin worn, etc.) The upper bearing is loose after you remove the arm. When you reassemble with this method you angle the knuckle and get the lower bearing (it's still attached to the lower bearing cap pin) up into it's bearing race in the knuckle ball, then you lift up and rotate the entire knuckle up and over the upper bearing as it sits on top of the knuckle ball race. Skip to 8:10 on the video and you can see me put it back on with the lower trunion bearing in place on the bearing cap: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWS8ZpWHfM6YsLsm11s

[@WheeliePete]

Sorry, never been into a Nissan Patrol before (they were pretty rare here in the U.S. Maybe someone else will chime in though...?

[@WheeliePete]

@CrazyMalone In my opinion, this is the ONLY way to do this in the field. Keeps you from exposing your wheel bearings (aka dropping them in the dirt) and you don't lose any bearing adjustment because the spindle is attached to the knuckle, you never touch the adjuster nuts for the wheel bearings. Call up Bobby Long of Longfieldsuperaxles(dot)com and get his ridiculously strong version of the Birfield, the "Longfield". I think he makes them for the FJ40.

[@TheMeetnasty1]

thanx!

[@BassSniper209]

Just got my 1st rig have yiu ever seen negitive camber

[@WheeliePete]

If you have a Solid Front Axle (SFA) truck with negative camber you have a real problem in that the camber (the angle between the vertical axis of the wheels used for steering and the vertical axis of the vehicle when viewed from the front or rear) is non-adjustable in a Toyota SFA truck. (Caster can be changed a bit on SFA trucks by using degree angled shims under the leaf packs, and toe-in is adjustable with the tie-rod.) In a SFA Toyota, the camber is set/fixed by the position of the steering knuckle pins into the trunion bearings in the top and bottom of the knuckle ball of the axle housing. If you've got a SFA truck and the tops of the tires are closer to the truck than the bottoms of the tires you either have SEVERELY worn out trunion bearings in the knuckles (jack the front end off the ground and see if the wheel is rocking around on the knuckle ball indicating the trunion bearings are shot), or your axle housing has a "smile" bend in it from landing hard off a jump (Live near any dunes? Been there, done that...dunes are rough on Toyota front axle housings...lol...) If you have an IFS (Independent Front Suspension) truck you have a lot more adjustability in the alignment components. Someone might have screwed with it a bunch and messed it up, or the joints in the IFS components are really worn. Could also be really worn out wheel bearings (but you should hear that going down the road before you could see negative camber...). Any way, a good place to start is jack the truck up and garb a hold of wheels and suspension components and start looking for loose stuff.

[@BassSniper209]

I have a SFA with a three link i checked the trunion bearings theres was not a bit of slop i just purchased the trail gear axle housing but i no not hiw to weld so its gonna be a little pricey n i just didnt want to use an old one brcause i dont want the same isssue

[@WheeliePete]

Just re-read my post and realised that I said shims on top of the knuckle. Shims can be on top or bottom, or both ends depending on how the knuckle was setup. the CRUCIAL part is getting the right amount of shims to set preload correctly on the bearings. You can find the specs on the web at MarlinCrawler (dot) com and trailgear (dot) com for that kind stuff. I stress though, to buy a rebuild kit from someone supplying the Japanese bearings...

[@ju2067]

Great video. Would have been more useful about 3 hours ago when I took my birfs out. :D hopefully will remember this method when I have to do it again in a couple years. :|

[@rudivonstaden]

+WheeliePete thanks for the great videos! I have disassembled my hubs and removed the spindle to expose the side axle shaft in the steering knuckle. I can swivel it around, but I can't rotate it at all. Also, when I took off the free wheel hub, the side shaft was not sticking straight out, it was pointing to the rear of the vehicle. Does this mean that the axle housing is bent, or could something else cause this?

[@WheeliePete]

+Rudi von Staden What vehicle do you have? Does it have full-time 4wd or is there a transfer case that engages and disengages the front driveshaft. If you have the spindle off and you can't turn the stub-shaft and birfield joint, then somethings keeping the differential from turning. Put your t-case in neutral, make sure your other hub is unlocked and when you turn the driveshaft by hand your exposed axle shaft should turn.

[@rudivonstaden]

Thanks WheeliePete It's a Toyota Hilux 4x4 with transfer case (same general setup as most of your Toyota videos, including this one). The other hub is free, and the gearbox is in neutral. I've tried putting the 4wd gearbox in neutral too, but either way I couldn't turn the stub-shaft (should it turn easily or does it need some torque?). Good suggestion to turn the drive shaft, that got the axle shaft turning! I'll use that trick to line up the flat bits and see if it pulls out.

[@WheeliePete]

+Rudi von Staden Yeah try turning the driveshaft by hand. That should spin the differential and rotate the axle shafts.

[@carld1966]

Hey, the same set up is on a land rover.

[@WheeliePete]

@elkanpt They are the cat's ass for getting those nasty tapered snap rings off the end of the birfield stub. I actually got them at Sears and I think they were less than $20. Great tool!

[@sox775]

you shouldn't go much bigger than 31s for the birfields.

[@WW5RM]

The fast way? Looks like just as much work to me.