When should you put a new chain on your chainsaw?

[@johnwoessner9028]

This is not the video you said would be on today. This has been becoming the pattern not to do what is said in previous video.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, making a video editing a video uploading a video making thumbnails for a video writing the description for the video coming up with a title every day for 2 years along with running and working in two other businesses 16 hours every day will cause a few bumps in the road and some videos are easy to make and edit and others take a lot more time so they get out of order. Sorry for my sins.

[@thefirewooddoctor]

@@InTheWoodyard, buy an Echo 7310 to buck a load of logs with and your sins will be forgiven.

[@aldredske6197]

@@InTheWoodyard some people just don't understand and have to have something to complain about. I wonder some days how you keep up with everything you need to get done every day. Keep up the great work and don't let people who have nothing better to do except complain about the little things bother you. They should just be happy that you do get a video out every day!!!

[@cdmajesty4803]

🤣🤣😂😂

[@mikehughes2026]

Yeah Chris, but you’ve got all that Free-Time at the end of the day! HaHa. Keep on keepin on, my Friend

[@oviduran]

Thank you so much! I feel like I just went to school and learned some great lessons. Many things I didn't know, until now.

[@mt8149]

I don't know is anyone in the comments mentioned it, but it's a good idea to loosen the bar after the first couple of times you cut with a new chain so it doesn't shrink down when it cools and (potentially) bend the drive shaft or otherwise damage the saw. There are a few folks around who use old chainsaw chains to make damascus steel for cutlery.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, good idea!

[@JaseC80]

Chris I get so much enjoyment out of your channel. I’m in Australia and spend my days off from my main job, cutting Iron Bark for firewood. Ironbark is a very hard wood and as such I use tungsten tip chains. I’m not sure about chords, but in the last 12 months would’ve cut around 500-600 tonnes. Chains certainly make a huge difference.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Great to hear! Thanks for the chain info! And thanks for watching!

[@alanio2010]

Very handy! I didn’t realize I was being ridiculous 😂 Good to know , getting a new chain tomorrow

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks for watching!

[@karenchizek4488]

May I suggest a progressive raker gauge. I don't know about oregon, but stihl chain has a witness mark on the side of the raker, you should hit both witness marks at the same time. Chain should be good down to the witness mark.

[@InTheWoodyard]

That makes sense to me, Stihl does make good stuff!

[@somedayzo6]

Chris I really enjoy these type of videos. Always learn and enjoy the close ups for seeing details!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks for watching!

[@jeffrainey7463]

You poked the skunk talking about chainsaw sharpening. Everybody is a pro at sharpening and everyone else does it wrong. Good video.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, you got that right !! I hear it all!

[@kerrymarshall2802]

I sharpen down to the line,but half way I get a next size small file to sharpen, along with taking the rakers down

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, you need to get the rakers down!

[@billybobswood8153]

the third one is about where i change chains the nubs are for stumps!! great vid! GNI !! when i was young and broke i'd run them down till they started breaking off!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Same for me!

[@briannelson4493]

Good info Chris,I have found cutting big rounds if you keep the hooks close to the same length, it cuts straighter. Otherwise it likes to cut crooked. Small rounds you don’t see it much . So stay sharp, and keep on cutting

[@InTheWoodyard]

Good point! Yes especially if they are on opposite sides.

[@markvogler1832]

not true if you set your rakers properly for each tooth. you can have brand new full length teeth on one side and all teeth on the other side filed clear to the witness mark and that chain will cut perfectly straight as long as the rakers are filed appropriately for the corresponding teeth.

[@markvogler1832]

@@InTheWoodyard I understand that it is probably faster for you to just change out chains when using the dremel sharpener with 7/32 stone. The chains you are throwing out, i would get 3 more filings out of them with a 13/64 or 3/16 file. As you get into the back half of the tooth you have to downsize your file to maintain the proper hook of the tooth due to the fact that the tooth gets shorter in height as it gets shorter in length. If you stay with the 7/32 file you will be down into the tie strap on the link to maintain the hook and gullet.

[@wolley2012]

I use a progressive raker gage to set the rakers. The chain cuts just as good as new right down to the line on the tooth. The correct relationship from the tooth to the raker is an angle, so as the tooth is filed away the raker needs to be deeper. By the look of the chains in this video, the rakers aren't deep enough to cut well.

[@InTheWoodyard]

You are correct, I do take the rakers down quite low as the tooth gets shorter! I can usually just feel how it cuts well or not and know if more needs to come off as the teeth get shorter! Good point!

[@mmg6282]

Gotta use a raker gauge. It don’t matter how short a tooth is as long as the rakers are filed down to match the tooth. The raker on a chain determines the depth of cut for that tooth. 0..25 is a good depth. If the raker (depth gauge) is filed down to match the cutter, the saw will cut straight and fast without the “saw dust”. Once you get past the angle mark on the tooth then it’s time to change the chain.

[@bluffsidetreeservice]

Agreed! I've been right to the end use line on stihl chains and they were just as fast if not faster. If the rakers are set right the chain will cut well. Some say they are faster because there is more room for chip clean out.

[@benlewis2317]

I've always found my chains cut best when you are getting down to the line as well. You just have to keep the rakers at the right height. I never used a depth gauge, just tuned the rakers to how much power the saw had. The 394 was filed WAY more aggressively than the 357, but I didn't break out the big saw unless it was going to get at least most of the 32" bar buried in wood. The cut speed on smaller trees wasn't enough different to be worth the extra weight and extra burned fuel.

[@garryyoung4067]

I always figured that because I am no expert then about half worn then I'm better off with a new one. A new 20 inch chain here in NZ is about $35 so rather than spend time ($) on an old chain just keep cutting.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, just keep cuttin'!

[@obxkoastie8170]

Chris...I think I see why you are not getting the full use out of your chains. Looks like they are Oregon EXL chains and it appears you are using a 7/32 file/grind stone to the bitter end. As a result your gullet isn't giving a proper hook! If you were to drop down to a 13/64 or even a 3/16 file/stone when the cutter is half worn you will maintain the proper hook in your gullet. If you look at how guys file racing chains they have almost no tooth left and actually take out a little off the top plate on the back end to cut down resistance. That way it provides less drag and they can take the rakers down a little more than normal. I watch John Reilly file his racing chains and they are wicked fast and almost no top plate left to the tooth. So I think it depends on a lot of variables but I know I have been filing almost to the witness marks for over 50 years (I'm part Scotch and very frugal) and notice no difference in cutting performance because I keep my rakers filed using a gauge and keep the hook in my gullet even before Buckin' Billy Ray made it popular on KZbin. I do love your channel and in particular your brother's "high speed splitter!" You two together are an amazing team!!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks so much for the information and for watching!

[@iffykidmn8170]

I have no idea who John Reilly is but agree with most everything else you have said, you have a few more years I have only been sharpening for 45yrs I am now going on 63, Yes getting the Gullet before BBR. Carlton used to give out File-O-Plates with a 3 chain purchase I am down to my last 2 gauges either lost or gave away others, I am German Irish and the wife says frugal I say COB.

[@thesmallwoodlot433]

Thank you Chris, as someone who heats with wood, and runs either cheap or vintage saws, the information of “safe useful chain life is important i tend to sharpen almost to the reference line before hanging up a chain, then grab it for dirty wood or stumping, how ever I am a little aggressive on filing my rakers from the start!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Right on, I agree!

[@thesmallwoodlot433]

@@InTheWoodyard I noticed you run Husqvarna chainsaws, do you have any vintage saws hanging around that you also run?

[@davidedwards3734]

Great video on changing your chains!! Ive learned a lot from your channel. Thanks. Have a Safe Day

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks David!

[@jandblawncare8570]

Thanks for the video! Great tip on the twisted chain dilemma, way back when, I swear I spent about an hour trying to get a new chain untwisted lol. And I also know a guy who just throws out a chain once it gets dull, a local dealer always had a deal on chains (buy 2 get one free) and he only cut an occasional tree so maybe it was worth it to him, tried telling him a sharpening kit was only like 20 bucks but he's a know it all I guess.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes, I know a few also that just put a new chain on when it get so dull it just smokes! Haaa!

[@francisbalzer9324]

I have found that the folks who run their chains dull stretch the chains beyond the adjustment capacity of the saw. The chains have large enough cutting teeth but cannot be tensioned on the saw. Thanks, great video!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes!I did that a couple of times years ago!

[@garyl148]

Longer the bar the more stretch, gets too much take out one driver.

[@danahasson2892]

Great video Chris. I tell my guys as soon as they get to about the halfway point on the tooth time for a new chain. I go through so many chainsaw loops that I buy and buy the case. For how many chains you go through in a year my guys and I go through that in about a week. It's sad when you go through so many chains that you have a scrap barrel for just the chains .

[@InTheWoodyard]

That is a mess of chains Dana! WOW!

[@danahasson2892]

@@InTheWoodyard the worst saw chain for me is on are Stihl ms150 top handle pruning saws. It runs that little 1/4 inch chain It is such a pain to sharpen that we sharpen it once maybe twice and its all hand filed but the chain is so small that it's almost impossible for file down the rakers . The great thing about that chain its so small it cuts like a razor knife for doing tree pruning.

[@michaelroberts1342]

Somebody done got a new camera!! The videos are a lot clear and look awesome. I agree with you half way and I get rid of them.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks Michael, no same 2 cameras, I just used professional lighting and switched to 60 frames a second from 30, better quality!

[@michaelroberts1342]

@@InTheWoodyard well it is a lot better. Trying to keep up with you pace for this coming up year. Around here we use the term rick for a face cord. I have already 90 ricks or 90 face cords already split and stacked. My goal is to get to 300 by July. Keep the videos coming.

[@mrfirewood6215]

The chain all the way on the right cuts the fastest with the rakers set properly. Less drag on the saw and clears chips easier.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Okay!

[@mrfirewood6215]

When the cutters get really small file them with a 3/16 file to get the gullet back. That will help it cut better also

[@brandong6242]

Appreciate the detailed explanation on tooth chains.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks Brandon!

[@glenspryszak6005]

Very true about the conditions where a tree grows. I have cut into burr oak, 4 feet above ground, with a sharp chain, and the amount of sand that has been sucked up in the capillaries was incredible. 1 minute in, dull as a butter knife. The sparks were like using an angle grinder...

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes, red oak sucks sand up also!

[@aldredske6197]

@@InTheWoodyard Hi Chris!! I have cut every kind of oak in mostly sand country and have never noticed a tree sucking up sand. The sand is probably in the bark from the wind blowing it. I have cut a lot of burr oak that had lots of dirt in the bark. It's impossible for the feeder roots to absorb a grain of sand.

[@grantsinclair4278]

I love the smell of sawchips and a 2 stroke in the morning. Great video for the unlearned. With prices so high these days many Sawyers will take that chain to the nub!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Great point! Thanks Grant!

[@RangerRage69]

I give my wore out chains to a blacksmith buddy of mine. He makes Damascus steel out of them and turns them into knives.

[@InTheWoodyard]

That is what others have said! Cool!

[@johncollins500]

Thanks for sharing Chris. I change mine at a # 3. Have a wonderful day

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, your teeth on the saw are like the teeth in your mouth, they don't work as good when they wear down!

[@Brian-Outdoors]

Chris thanks to you and Kenny doing the video on Dremel sharpening I bought the Milwaukee M12 rotary tool to try it myself. I already have many M12 tools so I didn’t want one more battery system and the Milwaukee is compatible with Dremel accessories.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Great to hear! I love the Milwaukee stuff I have some too!

[@franksterm1]

I always like your videos, but I think this one is the best. Full of information but not boring

[@InTheWoodyard]

Wow, thanks a bunch!

[@ChrisLascari]

More great stuff! Thanks for your hard work on the channel, Chris!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks, you are going to like tomorrow!

[@kevinmason3086]

I sharpen them close to the line then change it out and I'll will also use the old one to cut stumps off. I watched some videos where they take old saw chains and melt them down to make knife blades out of them.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, good ideas for sure!

[@thefirewooddoctor]

This is the best video you've made that doesn't involve actual cutting of firewood. So many people believed that you can take it down to nubs and be fine and I started to believe them. Now am of the belief that save the junk chains for dirty stumps and roots and then toss away. Looking at my chains and can see that they are in need of changing. The shorter you get the less gullet you have. The gullet shape is critical for cutting performance.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes and the top plate needs to be sharp and a straight line.

[@iffykidmn8170]

@@InTheWoodyard The gullet is actually part of chip removal, Look at the side profile of your nub chains(ski jump) and compare to the crescent shape of a new chain.

[@iffykidmn8170]

So than your saying one should learn to sharpen to maintain the gullet as well as the other needed angles.

[@thefirewooddoctor]

@@iffykidmn8170, correct.

[@stevezelen4651]

@@InTheWoodyard top plate? Hi Chris, please explain that a bit better. I’ve had my MS 392 for almost a year and I’m just now feeling comfortable sharpening my chains. I bought the jig that holds the rat tail and flat file that takes care of both the tooth and raker at the same time. After My last sharpening, I ran a separate flat file once across each raker for a more aggressive cut.( first time doing this). It seemed to cut pretty well. It has taken many, many tries for it to feel comfortable . My biggest problem is getting the saw to cut straight on larger logs around 20+ inches. Keep those videos coming. I don’t care if they are out of order. Lol Thanks for all you do!!

[@allaboutoutdoors5083]

I run carbide tipped blades usually more expensive but last way longer, but when I do run regulars when they’re dull I just throw them away and buy new, don’t have the time or the patience to sharpen and everybody charges $10/ blade around here. my biggest saw 461 with a 32” is only like $25 for a new one. Makes sits money back 20x over so I’m not worried about it.

[@InTheWoodyard]

You can get at least 6-8 sharpening from each saw, so you are spending about $120-160 extra on each chain if you just toss them.

[@mikehughes2026]

Morning Chris, the teacher gets a Apple for today’s class( the young bucks are saying What?). Great explanation and you’ve got one heck of a camera, incredibly clear video, Thank you , Take care

[@InTheWoodyard]

Morning! Thanks Mike, I like the honey crisp apples best!

[@edkerkhoff522]

Chris it's a good laugh to watch your neighbor making dust with his saw lol. So u think I should teach him to sharpen his saw it's pretty funny

[@InTheWoodyard]

I have few guys that I told to just bring me the saw once or twice a year when it is dull and I will sharpen it up for them!

[@CPAULKLEIN]

Good timely video Chris. I was just dealing with this subject. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Glad to help!

[@MPH-iq5md]

Some good advice there Chris, it might be useful to show the side profile and the circular shape which helps to remove the chips from the wood and eject it off the chain. Do you ever feel an increase in vibration if you end up with a chain where the teeth are different lengths?

[@InTheWoodyard]

No, as long as they are sharp they cut.

[@iffykidmn8170]

Try taking a close look of the wore out chains they do not look like a good side profile more ski jump shape rather than crescent shape similar to a new chain, BBR does a pretty fair job of describing what he refers to as getting the gullet. I have been getting the gullet and sharpening chains down to a nub since the mid 70s. Carlton chain used to give a raker gauge away with the purchase of 3 chains for awhile back I believe around the 90s File-O-Plate or similar naming, it rests on the individual tooth rather than two dissimilar height teeth. I believe it is WCS that now makes a gauge similar in design to the old Carlton gauge but charges $20ish.

[@danshouseofsmokeandoutdoor7119]

I am a cheap but. I use mine all the way up. Haven’t noticed much difference in speed might have to check. I do like new chain with rakers took down. I cut lot down trees so see lot dirt. I bought log ox it saves a lot on sharping.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, rakers down!

[@canvasman2307]

So, I cannot recall who I heard this from, but it was said the best modification to improve performance on your chainsaw is make sure to run a properly tensioned and sharp chain. Would it stand to reason that running a dull or badly worn chain robs you of cutting efficiency and makes the operator fatigue, bar and engine stress, and fuel efficiency all worse? Thanks for the video and pointers.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes, you are spot on! Thanks for watching!

[@iffykidmn8170]

I would almost bet that straight gas or dull chains have smoked more chainsaw engines than just about any other cause.

[@aldredske6197]

@@iffykidmn8170 I bet dull chains have killed more saws than any other thing out there. Except for improperly tuned saws with dull chains.

[@jeanvaljohn3921]

Another exemplary video ,good job. Next Up Correct and incorrect Chain saw usage. Bad things and good stuff that may be detrimental or even abusive. Tips and tricks to extend chain and saw life.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, those are some good topics! Thanks Jean!

[@jeanvaljohn3921]

@@InTheWoodyard you are welcome

[@shortlines]

While the dremel is faster, but taking extra metal, would hand sharpening give you 2 or 3 extra sharpening's on the chain, And I did see in a past video that you use a light touch with the dremel.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Maybe, but my time and energy is better spent cutting and chains in bulk are cheap, I can make more money but not more time.

[@aldredske6197]

Good morning Chris!!😀😀 I see that Oregon puts marks on the tooth just past the witness mark so you can't sharpen off the witness Mark and get one more sharpening out of it. It does depend on what kind of wood you are cutting as to how far you want to take them down. If you are cutting softwood you can get away with taking them down a little shorter. But if you are cutting wood like you are. I definitely agree with everything you said about when too change the chain. Take care my friend!!😀😀👍👍 Logger Al

[@InTheWoodyard]

Good point Al, I should have mentioned that! Yup, pine is much more forgiving!

[@iffykidmn8170]

Also depending on time of year one can consider frozen wood as well.

[@vdsgw52]

Keep surprising us Chris, I don't know how you keep up. Gotta go cut up blown down Almond trees tomorrow.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks I am just getting started, lots more to come!

[@sandsock]

I sharpen at least every other tank of fuel. But I do it by hand, sometimes 1 stroke sometimes 3. I may get to pushing 20 sharpening. I swap chains in between your 2nd and 3rd . That line is where teeth rip off and you lose a eye

[@InTheWoodyard]

Loosing any body parts would be bad!

[@toddsoutsideagain]

Hey Chris great info! One idea…You could hang all the old chains on the Kioti next to the sausages for ballast🤣🤷‍♂️GNI

[@InTheWoodyard]

Great idea!I have a buyer for them now though!

[@kennethblack3485]

thanks chris informative as ever ken from kent england

[@InTheWoodyard]

Glad you enjoyed it Ken from Kent!

[@gersonduran4451]

OMG I was just going to ask you if you had a video talking about when to replace your chain in your chainsaw and I think KZbin heard me and this video popped up into my screen. Really really all around great video ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks, the answer is usually ...sooner than most people think!

[@billhauck6425]

Have you ever considered buying bulk chain and making your own chains? Geat teaching moment, thanks.

[@InTheWoodyard]

No, I don't think it would save me much I get chains in bulk at logging shows and pretty cheap, also I do not need more to do.

[@scrhino40]

I cut a lot of pine and in sand and the sand will make the chain links get loose and the tooth will be half gone. Have to replace chain. I have replaced 3 chains on 3 saws a year so depending on how many trees we cut in a years time we may have to have 2 or 3 new chains per saw. Have a great day be safe.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes, sand is one of the enemies!

[@scrhino40]

@@InTheWoodyard yes sir

[@markvogler1832]

Love your videos but have to disagree with you on this one. If you are taking the gullet out and setting your rakers properly there is no reason why you cannot sharpen a chain until the cutters are just little triangles. In fact a chain that has little triangles for teeth will cut much faster than a new chain, if the gullet and rakers are properly taken care of, will cut much faster than a new chain. This is due to the fact that it takes less horsepower to pull the old chain with small cutters through the wood due to less surface area on each cutter and therefore less friction in the wood. You cannot use the style of raker gauge that spans the top of two teeth to set your rakers, however. You must use the style that gauges only off its respective tooth (I personally use the Husky ones). You can do the same with a chain that has been badly rocked on one side. It is total hogwash that each tooth must be sharpened to the same length for the saw to cut straight. All you have to do is sharpen each tooth until it is sharp and then set the raker for that tooth to the proper depth for that tooth.

[@mercoldswfo]

Yes I’m cheap and do the same thing. The ones Chris throws away is what I start with. I suppose if it works for him and he’s productive his way, that’s good for him. I thought about telling him I’d buy his bad chains from him for my petty amount of non production cutting I do.

[@InTheWoodyard]

I have talked to several professional loggers who cut for a living, including my brother who cut professionally for 30 years as a hand cutter who say once the tooth is down to 1/3 of the original it is not cutting as much wood. I agree with them I can tell the difference in my cutting. They also change out their harvesters chains at about the 1/3 left on the tooth for the same reason. However IF you are cutting pine then you can go farther with the chain. Little triangles cut little chips. But if you are happy with your cutting then that's okay.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes, they will still cut but not as fast and time and production are more valuable to me than saving a few bucks on a old chain.

[@markvogler1832]

@@InTheWoodyard not true...little triangles will not cut little chips unless you have gotten to the point that the tooth is getting narrower. they will cut chips exactly the same size as a brand new chain and will do it faster if...as stated above... the gullet and rakers are properly maintained. I have always loved when I get into the last half of the tooth on a chain. That is when it really starts to fly.

[@davidfenton3910]

Hi mark@@markvogler1832 I'm think you are correct and I've referenced an authoritative source in reply to Chris so he is confronted with an authoritative professional saying just what you are. Cheers sincerely d

[@njonebale7889]

great video, good topic, i got to say i never seen anybody put a chain on like that, i’ve seen guys fiddling with the bar and chain like that and usually have to bail them out, but you got an actual system going on. i got to say your chains look really jacked up from the dremel , i mean each tooth looked different in length, i like a bench grinder it keeps the teeth even, and i cut a couple hundred cords a year like yourself and last year i bought the breaker and spinner and a 100’ roll of chain and it was a huge convenience…you may be interested in that.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks for the tips! And thanks for watching!

[@JasonBraunOutdoors]

Great Tips on the Chain replacement. GNI!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks Jason!

[@kevinroberts9394]

I always hand file but i have a grinder as well and 1 or 2 times in a chains life they need to be run in a grinder to make all the teeth the same or square things up as the teeth are tapered and when you get them different lengths you loose cutting efficiency because they are not all cutting the same depth even if you adjust your rakers properly.

[@InTheWoodyard]

okay!

[@davidfenton3910]

Hi kevin Thank you very much for your comment. I really appreciate it. On your last point I would agree with you, if the cutting teeth stayed on the guide bar when taking a chip because then different length teeth would take different depth chips … *but the cutting link leaves the guide bar when taking a chip* and because of this, the size of the chip is determined by the depth gauge. _Simply - if the leading edge starts taking a bite, the tooth will generally leave the guide bar and then the depth gauge determines how deep the chip is (not the height of tooth)._ If depth gauges are set properly for each tooth then they will all cut to the same depth on average. Sources where you can check this info: _‘Dan Tilton Chainsaw Safety’_ vid from the 80’s - is on YT and _‘Carlton Safety Manual’_ an online pdf, p6. Thank you very much for your comment, before reading it I hadn’t pictured the role of the depth gauge in the tooth’s dynamic motion off the guide bar. i.e. you’re comment got me to think about it and understand it better. Cheers sincerely d

[@kevinroberts9394]

@@davidfenton3910 no doubt that that is how things work however I'm not certain that it always works that way because i have had several occasions where a chain just fails to cut efficiently with all the rakers adjusted with a gauge and resharpen and resharpen with no change however when you make all the teeth the same length it is back to cutting like new and I have done it with a hand file b4 getting a grinder. And now I just hand file untill it will not cut efficiently or untill about half wore out then grind to make them all the same and hand file untill the teeth start disappearing

[@davidfenton3910]

Hi kevin@@kevinroberts9394 Saw chain is a precision engineered cutting tool that neither of us really understands that much. The height difference between the leading edge of the cutting tooth and the depth gauge needs to increase as the tooth gets shorter. In that Dan Tilton vid I mentioned he basically says 25 thoug at the start has to become almost 50 though at the end of the tooth and only progressive depth gauges do this sort of thing. But even people like Chris, who uses a progressive depth gauge only get about 2/3 or so before performance decreases. It seems to me, and this is not from experience, that even some progressive filing plates don't lower the depth gauges enough. This is a real problem because it's a precision progression that seems to need more than the filing plate can give in last quarter of the tooth. Over quite a few years I tried many things with only little bits of success until I invested in a precision German made filing guide. But it didn't solve the depth gauge dynamic problem. This is the Dan Tilton vid kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKbGqmehm9-bf9E There is some real knowledge in it so it opens the way to more reality based thinking and understanding. It's one of the best chainsaw vids I've seen. I've actually thought out a constant angle gauge that might give efficient cutting to the end of the tooth but it will still take some time to test it to see if it actually works. There is also some more sophisticated info on a YT channel called 'Chainsaw Users'. It's by an Australian. Cheers sincerely d

[@davidfenton3910]

Hi again kevin@@kevinroberts9394 Just remembered from the Dan Tilton vid I linked. He says something like 90% of saw chain failure (i.e. not cutting) is from depth gauges too high or low and too much 'hook' in the tooth or a back slope in the cutting tooth. Best way to get a vertical/even C with the right amount of hook is to use a file holder/gauge if hand filing. And for the depth gauges, it seems the new Stihl progressive depth gauges may be one of the best available at this time i.e. better than the carlton/husky file o plate? Cheers d

[@rodt2781]

Great video Chris as always. I could be wrong but myself I find the bench chainsaw chain sharpener, my chains seem to last a bit longer and I like that it keeps factory edge. That's what I do with my chains at home for my personal saws. At work though we hand file and yes that's where I noticed the bench grinder might sharpenings might last longer. I haven't tried the dremel way yet like you do though. Cheers. Keep up with the good videos.

[@njonebale7889]

i’m all dialed in with the bench grinder myself and it makes those chains “box sharp”, and all you have to do is just barely touch it to the tooth and clean them up most times…chris’s chains looked jacked up from that dremel.

[@InTheWoodyard]

As long as they cut it is all that matters!

[@InTheWoodyard]

I might have to get me a bench grinder!

[@rodt2781]

Chris, ya you might like it. I'm actually surprised Tony don't have one or showed us his if does already. Lol! Tony strikes me as he'd be the first one to buy one and tell us about it on your channel. Lol!

[@briantownsend9148]

@@InTheWoodyard It’s not as powerful as some but the price is great on the one at harbor freight I’ve used it for a year plus now on everything from a 20” down and it works great I just got a new 24” husky 460 rancher haven’t used enough to have to sharpen yet lol I set it just enough to put a good edge on tooth then take my hand grinder and “bump”the rakers 2-3 times every couple sharpenings My chains last pretty good and cut Awsome been cutting for 40-41 years (I’m 53 now )I’ve made a lot of mistakes along the way but got things down to a science now 😂 But as I’m sure you no age and experience huh

[@patrickallen1603]

Knifemakers can use them to forge a patterned steel blade.

[@InTheWoodyard]

That is what I am told! I have a guy who is going to buy them!

[@LeuCustomKnives]

Stihl chainsaw say they are pre-stretched. Is that bologna? Do you ever lift the bar when tensioning the chain Chris? Seemed like when I put the bar on and didn’t lift the bar cutting causes the bar to raise up anyways causing the chain to be looser. But when I lift the tip of the bar, tension then cut it doesn’t seem to appear loose like before

[@InTheWoodyard]

I have heard that too, I do not know if it actually is true, I have a tightening method that works for me, no I do not lift the bar.

[@SGD3000]

Chris- What type of chain are you running? Full chiseled, semi skip or skip?

[@InTheWoodyard]

Full.

[@TakeNoneForTheTeam]

Funny... "You are my best viewer!" Thanks as always.

[@InTheWoodyard]

It is the truth, you are!

[@BufordPusser582]

Thanks for this great informative video

[@InTheWoodyard]

Glad it was helpful!

[@edfeldpausch7169]

Another excellent informative video from the greatest man in wood today.... Chris from in the wood yard . 👏 👏 👏 . I have many of those beyond saving chains myself that's just crazy how cheap I really am. Just ordered a new roll this morning . You'd be proud of me Chris. Ordered 100 ft.roll. and will be making chains soon. Thank you for such great info today. Also set you an email checking on the 🦫 hats.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks Ed, we just got done beaver trapping a couple days ago! We caught 529 beaver in 3 weeks! The hats will be started soon!

[@aldredske6197]

@@InTheWoodyard Wow that's a lot of b I beaver in a short period of time. Must have had some real hot spots.

[@edfeldpausch7169]

@@InTheWoodyard that's got to be record year for beaver. At least it would be around here. Congratulations on the success.

[@garyl148]

Last roll of chain that I got from Madsen's was $344. including shipping. I was walking through a store a couple weeks ago and their chains for 28" bars were $47.99. Local saw shop sells them for $36.99 plus tax and I'm making up my own for $19.38 for a chain for 28" bar. Buying loops is cost prohibitive for me.

[@MrHuntermikey]

Great information. Thanks. Like the elk too

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks for watching Mike! The actual elk hunt is on my channel from a few months ago if you want to see it!

[@MrHuntermikey]

I do want to see it . Thanks that be awesome. Just found your channel and subscribed. I’m a Husky guy myself. Running a Walkerized 565 and couldn’t be happier Take Care Mike

[@lendevonuk5479]

Hi Chris, gotta spend less time counting those ‘bennies.’ 🤣🤣🤣 As you know, I am full of advice…sometimes good, and sometimes waffle….but I guess that is the joy of watching ‘in the woodyard.’ However, I know one thing for sure, I could not, and would not, do what you do…wouldn’t have the patience to shoot, edit and upload all of the material you deal with. So, for your sins, you are forgiven! Keep it up Chris! Len (Devon 🇬🇧)

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks so much for watching Len, you are my favorite viewer from across the pond!

[@markficarra8502]

Hi Chris, I appreciate all your knowledge you’ve shared, I sure have learned a lot from you!! I watch all your videos, big fan from Ohio😁🔥

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks so much Mark, I appreciate it!

[@chadkibbler2521]

Another pointer Chris wore out chains produce dust and hard on air filters and burn up bars fast Great Video

[@InTheWoodyard]

Great point!

[@daviddyche1125]

There has to be some kind of old chainsaw chain art out there. How about a wide board with "In The Woodyard" spelled out in old chain tacked on it, hanging over the entrance to your woodyard??? You've got enough old chain that when Tony sees it and wants one too, you can make one for him. Hmmm...what would Tony's sign say??? 😎 CYN & GNI

[@InTheWoodyard]

Haaa!Tony's sign would say.... Chris' best new friend!

[@daviddyche1125]

@@InTheWoodyard Maybe...you better watch old Tony, he's been steppin' out on you over on Dan's Back 40 Firewood channel. I know I heard Dan say Tony was his new best friend!!!! They both run Stihls too. You may have to bribe him with a whole pack of gum to get him back.

[@brucearney9536]

What do you think of the narrow kerf chains ? Really small brand new . There theory less wood you cut the more power the saw has .

[@InTheWoodyard]

I have not tried one yet...so I do not know.

[@richardbrowne1679]

My chains seem to last a lot longer. I do touch up sharpenings. Usually twice a day. Typically touch up with the Stihl 2:1 sharpeners. If they are bad, I use the Dremel. If I hit something, I use the bench grinder. Are you still using the Oregon grinding bits in the Dremel or have you found something better?

[@InTheWoodyard]

That sounds like you have a good system!

[@redeagle6842]

What about cleaning out the rails on the bar or blowing out all the dust on that side of saw since you have it opened. Greasing your clutch bearing is also a great idea. I give my old chains to a blacksmith. They make arson knives.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, you are correct William, a clean saw is a happy saw!

[@garys8415]

Great learning video 🏕

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks Gary!

[@HILLBILLYSFIREWOOD]

Four chains use to last me a year. In the 12 years cutn wood i never owend a hand file.. always used bench chain grinder to sharpn them up... have a good week , take care. 🌲🌲🌳🌳✌

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks for sharing Bee man!

[@rickthelian2215]

A processor uses a chain on it’s saw. If your chain is dull, don’t you just damage the bar quicker. Is it more economical to buy a roll of chain and make them yourself since your only using one brand of chainsaw.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes, Yes and maybe so!

[@CamperKev]

Outstanding content. I just had to subscribe. 😀

[@InTheWoodyard]

Awesome, thank you! There are over 1100 videos waiting for you to watch on the channel and a new one every morning!

[@luebkeb]

Isn't the line there to tell you how far you can sharpen. Keep sharpening until you hit that line. Shorter teeth dont cut as well??? Aren't you filing your rakers? Should always adjust them so your tooth is grabbing. 025"...

[@InTheWoodyard]

If you cut a lot you will find that once your chain is past 2/3 gone it is time to put a new chain on..I have videos showing the time difference from a used sharp chain to a new sharp chain ...the speed difference is dramatic.

[@Dorchwoods]

That God damn tame chensioner! Lol

[@InTheWoodyard]

Haaaa!Yup!

[@austindenotter19]

How far south in Wisconsin are you? I have never seen a hickory or locust tree and all my life logging up here. Spooner Hayward Winter area.

[@InTheWoodyard]

I am in Appleton, I was in Winter a few time over the last few weeks beaver trapping with my brother.

[@robertblacksmith4355]

Curious if you burn firewood ? Have you made a video of your wood stove or how you heat your home thnx!

[@InTheWoodyard]

I have a fire place and a fire pit in the back yard. No, I am trying to have a few moments with out a camera and some small bit of privacy.

[@DanielAtkinsFirewood]

Thanks for this info Chris.. 😊👍

[@InTheWoodyard]

Sure thing Sir Daniel!

[@joerhoades1457]

Chris you have to know someone around there that has a forge .. give them those chains to them on the premise they make you a knife..

[@InTheWoodyard]

I am going to sell them all to a viewer!

[@seangerberding1255]

I’ve seen blacksmiths/blade smiths use old chains. Make neat knifes. Could have one made and sell it or have a giveaway for your viewers...🤷🏻‍♂️

[@InTheWoodyard]

That is a great idea Sean!

[@adamtangeman3793]

I work for a tree service and we run the chain's tell there is just a nub and it still cuts like a new chain

[@InTheWoodyard]

You must be doing something different sharpening then, a short tooth does not cut nearly as good as a full sharp tooth for me, but I am wrong a lot, just ask my wife!

[@iffykidmn8170]

@@InTheWoodyard Listen to your wife. as long as the chain is properly sharpened it will cut down to the nubs. there is more to sharpening than just top plate and rakers.

[@larryvankirk7423]

Good informative video Chris. Save a couple of the better ones for stumps. The price of scrap metal is going up. GNI

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes and yes!

[@coreyriley7160]

G’morning Chris. Thank you for sharing the information you have learned from experience ! I’ve taken lots of tips/tricks from you. How often do you replace rim sprockets ? Thanks for all you do for us. GoodNightIrene

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thank Corey, when they need changing, not on any regular schedule.

[@garyl148]

You can tell by looking at the wear. Oregon sprockets have a wear mark. Not scientific, but it seems to me, off hand, that I can wear out about 2 chains to the sprocket but that would depend on the wood and I don't have to cut much dirt.

[@christianmillhollon4481]

If you don't sharpen would it be the same as having a stub when it comes down to the cutting proficiency

[@njonebale7889]

pretty much, or perhaps worst, if chips aren’t coming out the back it’s dull, if you have powder or the chain is smoking it’s dull

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yes but worse, no sharp edge means no cutting only dust and smoke!.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Exactly!

[@christianmillhollon4481]

@@InTheWoodyard cool I used my neighbors electric saw and the thing had a sweet spot where it would cut perfectly but had no stubs so I guess it was dull as heck lol

[@christianmillhollon4481]

@@InTheWoodyard thanks

[@paulstagnoli3964]

Chris have you seen the new Hexa chain it is supposed to be a faster cutting chain?

[@InTheWoodyard]

No, but I have heard about it.

[@catmachines2615]

I see you have like a trophie room back there with all your mounts. You should make a video of that.

[@InTheWoodyard]

I will do that some day!

[@briantownsend9148]

If you’ve cut wood long enough you’ve put a chain on backwards getting in a hurry 😂we have all done it I got in hurry other day and done it after sharpening couple it happens to the best of us lol

[@InTheWoodyard]

HAAA! Yup, me too!

[@mercoldswfo]

I’m a terrible person. I run the chains till several teeth snap off. I see a goldmine in your junk ones lol. You got a good system and good advice for people on what they should do. Thanks for the videos as usual. Get out and get cutting!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks Ben!

[@songsfromthelord888]

Thanks for the excellent video on chain replacement and new Installation! 🙂 Remember, that God loves YOU personally and always . . . 🙂

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks for watching!

[@flyinryan1986]

I know a guy every time his chain gets dull he buys a new bar and chain kit. I bet it gets spendy with a 20 or 22 inch stihl bar and chain

[@InTheWoodyard]

Yup, there are a few of them, usually just occasional cutters.

[@flyinryan1986]

@@InTheWoodyard has heats his house all winter I would almost bet he would be close to half or more of what he would spend just buying it but I get a get good bars and chains a year I don't have to buy for the stihl I have

[@thefirewooddoctor]

I'll give you tree-fiddy for all those chains.

[@InTheWoodyard]

I already have a buyer!

[@thefirewooddoctor]

@@InTheWoodyard, dang it. I've got some stumps to cut down and could use a few.

[@daveed2812]

🤓 I didnt write the book but I did read it lol!! There is a magic number in the manual that came with the Saw. The manual clearly states when to replace the chain 1. Make sure there are no cracks in rivets and links and that no rivets are loose. Replace if it is necessary 2 make sure that the saw chain is easy to bend. replace the chain if it is rigid 3 compare the saw chain with a new one to examine it the rivets and links are worn 4 Replace the saw chain when the longest part of the cutting tooth is less than 4mm/0.16in. Also replace if there are cracks in the cutters

[@InTheWoodyard]

That sounds good, I need to read it too, but first I need to learn how to read!

[@iffykidmn8170]

So even the manual says nubs are ok everything else being equal.

[@adventurerhoades]

What's your favorite x cut chain?

[@InTheWoodyard]

I am not picky, they all cut good if you sharpen them well!

[@Frankzeien]

Good information for all the boys and girls out there. And take those chains to the recycling and get some cash for them 😎.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks, I have a buyer!

[@danthornton5098]

Excellent advice. 👍

[@InTheWoodyard]

Glad it was helpful!

[@medjoolmaker]

That’s really good 15-20 chains a year.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Good as in a lot or "only" 15-20?

[@medjoolmaker]

@@InTheWoodyard good as in some beginners put a chain on every time they cut and throw away chain because it’s too complicated to sharpen and buy cases of chains and use hundreds a year. Local country clubs with idiot employees. Have major money to burn, in a use it or lose it situation

[@markhowes126]

Chris I must respectfully disagree. When the teeth get short that's why you file the rakers. When teeth get pretty short you may need to take a little off the side (not top) of rakers. The short teeth may be a little narrower and cut a narrower kerf hence the need to take a little off the side of rakers. But a narrower kerf doesn't necessarily mean slower cutting. I agree the 4th chain was done.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks for the info, I am wrong a lot, just ask my wife! But I did talk to several loggers including my brother who has cut for 30 years for a living and they all said yes, take the rakers down but the best cutting length of the tooth is done at about 1/3 left.

[@victoriapedersen9592]

I hear my father in law stop and said hi while you and Kenny where beaver trapping. Small world.

[@InTheWoodyard]

That is great! Yes, everyone is connected in one way or another!

[@knottwworking]

Great video, very good information as always. Talk to you later.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Thanks so much!

[@bjlee1988]

Thinking you should keep those old chains and start an award on In The WOODYARD! The Dull Chain award! Or, you could give them to your old best friend Tony instead of a stick of gum.

[@InTheWoodyard]

Ha! Those are both good ideas!

[@brackenprofaizer2601]

Send all your old chains to forged in Fire!

[@InTheWoodyard]

Nope, I sold them all.

[@JuanSanchez-mk3ro]

Chris take those chains to a metal scrap yard along with any other junk metal that you have and get some cash for them and go buy more chains! Regards

[@InTheWoodyard]

I already have a buyer!