WHICH FINISH IS THE BEST!? We test the leading four hard-wax oil finishes!

Which finish is the best? That is the question I had. I started this video with the intention of finding which hard wax oil was the best because that is what I want to use. Instead of taking someone else's word for it I decided to test them out for myself. What you have in this video is a completely unbiased conclusion.
WHY DONT YOU USE LACQUER / POLY / CONVERSION VARNISH ETC.???
The answer..
I worked in a big custom furniture shop before this and that is all they used. If you want to make money and need to crank things out fast then you should use those finishes. They are the industry standard and are well excepted amongst our community. HOWEVER.. I do things on a higher level and my prices reflect that. I personally want the best for the furniture I put out, so top coat finishes are not even an option in my shop. I would consider using those finishes on something like a kitchen cabinet box, but not my furniture.
Why are they bad?
1) When they fail they fail hard. The finish raises/separates from the wood and flakes off.
2) Touch up is not an option. Completely sand off and refinish when they fail or even get a scratch.
3) Aesthetics.. Looks like plastic.
4) They don't wear well.
SOAP FINISH
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[@angelgabriel7109]

The ultimate underrated woodworking channel!!

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Angel Gabriel that’s us

[@joninfect8681]

Subscribed because of your comment

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

@@joninfect8681 haha I’ll take it!

[@CraigularjJoeWoodworks]

I don’t think it’s under rated. It’s clearly a great channel

[@angelgabriel7109]

@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks i mean that is under-appretiated

[@thefilthelement]

"What am I going to use on my epoxy river table? Fire would be good for that Perfect

[@Dtsmith69]

Gasoline!! love it man. You know if you flog those knotheads more they will listen better

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Hahaha just raising awareness

[@Joestacemazjojo]

That definitely had me rolling, although I like working with resin so far although I don’t consider myself a true wood worker yet. Overall very helpful video as I work with a good deal of both blk walnut and ash, and have stuck with Osmo since discovering it after beginning with poly ( which I don’t think I’ll ever go back) but will definitely check out The others now. Especially for the ash

[@alecnettleton3317]

Big fan of these hard wax oils. I lean towards osmo polyx for most furniture due to being able to get a bit more sheen than either Rubio or Odies. Never noticed a smell issue with Osmo either. I do wear gloves when applying. No gloves required and the great smell with Odies keeps me coming back to it for certain projects though.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

That’s odd that you say that. The people I know that use polyx say they like it because you get more of a Matte finish out of it

[@LuisSanchez-wf9zw]

Love the comment at 9:21, “I’m probably just going to use Rubio because it doesn’t smell like I’m gonna die.”, lmao

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Not on the wood.. but maybe i should

[@robertennor1143]

The only one I was familiar with was the OSMO, which I picked up to refinish two small stool tops that are natural pine. Sanded the tops and sides down, applied two coats and got a clear natural pine finish minus the wet look of varnish or polyurethane. Like the flat finish over a gloss or semi gloss as well. Still looking perfect after 3-4 years. Not sure if you two favs are available in Canada but will keep an eye out. Enjoyed this vid (as well as others on your channel). I like the no stain approach to finishing as well as colourless finish products. Really enjoying your channel. Thank you for doing it. Rob

[@XC2long4u]

Get that sponsorship dude, we believe in you.

[@ItsaaaaMeeeee]

We don’t snort the soap! Lmao. Great video! Very informative.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Mario Garcia haha thank you for watching

[@Chestnut510]

As someone who owns a finish shop and done full houses in rubio I would say you definitely need to wear a mask with it. The catalyzer is what is killing brain cells. I get worse headaches with that stuff than I do conversion varnish. You should try emmet’s good stuff

[@SweetTGuitars]

OSMO is food safe, it's also child's toy safe once cured. I love this video. Very informative and the fact that you tested the most popular oil finishes is really the ticket.

[@SkillzMillz83]

How many coats of gasoline should I put on my epoxy river table again?

[@ACR4008]

Hey guys- I came upon your channel and have really enjoyed the videos. I’m a fan of your philosophy on your tools, business, videos, and craft. Keep up the good work :)

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Thank you so much!! Really appreciate it!

[@jeffreyjbyron]

Where can I buy the soap finish? Depending on the wood/grain, Osmo and Rubio both make finished with lighteners in them that do an ok job of preserving light wood color. It's technically stain, but since all finishes amber wood, I don't really see the difference between a stain and a finish. I guess that's a different approach than trying to pass off poplar as cocobolo though...

[@timofeyzhukov-khovanskiy9173]

I think TnT and Odie's are easier to explain to customer being food safe. Like, TnT it's pure linseed oil polymerized and beeswax. I have a gallon of the TnT pure stuff too for mixing and generally it does an awesome job on turnings. And since I can friction polish on the lathe I actually get a coat of it first, then wet sand at 1000 grit, buff out with paper towel, rub some about 80% beeswax/20% carnauba wax mix while lathe is going, then burnish with a brown paper bag piece and I'm done. It's dry to touch then.

[@AaronCo29]

I thought the same thing about an epoxy finished countertop the first time I ran across one, then came the river tables, and my first experience was walking into a house with a dark light and a glowing table that looked like it was cut straight from the middle of the tree and they had Avatar streaming constantly in the background, man that was a long couple of days and I hated that movie for a while, I also thought to myself, rich people are weird. Fast forward a while and wouldnt you know it, the river table separated, the wood had checks all through it and gaps cracks etc. and I made the comment about how wood moves and will dry out etc. and they told me that contradicted what the guy that made the table for them said, and I laughed uncontrollably, to the point it came out my nose because I was trying to hold it in, they even said, he said it just adds to the "natural" look of the table and was normal, then I noticed a piece of corn stuck in a crevice and ask them if they wanted me to dig that out for them, but I stopped myself and said, "Oh yeah, it adds to the natural look of the table, never mind" and I havent been back to that house for anything, given the competition I was up against, and the fact, I have seen better made picnic tables, out of pine that held up better, and they were comparing my work to that.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

AaronCo29 ah man thanks for sharing that story. I needed a good laugh. Now every time I see an epoxy river table I’m just going to think of corn

[@ledgm108]

Thanks for taking the time to make this video

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Thank you for taking the time to watch and drop a comment!

[@Ackbarfangirl]

Omg I’m in stitches and also enlightened

[@Lady_Miter_Saw]

Excellent video! Good information delivered in a funny & concise way!

[@vincentlaguardiagambini5702]

Fantastic video. I learned and you earned a subscriber.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Thanks so much!

[@MrJKellerLewis]

Does your finish (for light wood) repel water rings? Also great video, always funny and original

[@middletonwoodworks]

WD - I'd like to request a t-shirt with the Build logo on front and your shop rules on the back! I've got the original Build shirt, but this sir, would be an instant classic. Nice job on the video too! Like you, I'm partial to rubio because of the smell as well!

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Rob Middleton those damn shop rules slipped in there! I didn’t know they were in the video until someone said something hahah

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Rob Middleton also.. that’s a great idea for the shirt haha I just might do that

[@oranaomi]

Great review. Learnt a lot about where and when to apply the different finishes. Thank you!

[@ivanilves]

Awesome content, awesome humor as well! You deserve more subscribers bro ;) Greetings from Spain

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Thank you so much! Don’t know how I missed this comment!

[@bencook5079]

Can you talk more about your finish you sell? What is the cost? How many coats needed? If multiple coats, what is needed in between the coats? Also, what “type” of finish is it (oil based wax or other?). What type of project (besides light colored woods) would you use it with (large conference table, side table, etc?)? Absolutely love your work both as a KZbinr and woodworker! I also really like the thought of not turning lighter woods I use into that stupid tan color! I hate that!

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Hey Ben, I am going to have to do a video on it because I keep getting similar questions. It’s nothing a invented. I just made it accessible. It’s literally 100% natural soap and water. Nothing els. The trick is in making it. If you visit my website I have more info on its ideal use. Basically.. it’s not hard-wearing. It’s a mild finish that is incredibly easy to apply and completely safe. Your hands get clean as you apply! Anyway.. Williamdouglasco.com

[@kalamabrew5963]

I've been using Tried & True Danish oil lately in my shop, mostly on walnut, and I like it quite a bit. The smell isn't offensive and I like how it goes on, also it's nontoxic and that adds keywords to marketing that you know what type of person appreciates... (though it makes me feel like I'm putting gluten free labels on apples)

[@oatmealxo]

I'd love to see a video on your finishing soap!

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

I’ll do one!

[@mikes1330]

@@WilliamDouglasCo Still waiting for this video on the soap finish. I have 3 large maple dressers and am nearing the finish choice point. Application, coverage, results, reasons, etc.

[@DM-ll7he]

Love your videos. Can these be used on furniture that is already stained and finished? I want to bring back the beauty of my china cabinet.

[@davidboyce6975]

Have you tried Osmo Top Oil? Food safe and no mask required. Lovely finish.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

David Boyce no I haven’t heard of that one!

[@davidboyce6975]

@@WilliamDouglasCo It's good, hunt it out. I use it a lot. Also, I'm pretty sure the PolyX Oil is food safe as well. Been a while since I checked the MSDS data sheet, but seem to recall that it's not toxic. Oh, hate river tables. Were interesting for maybe five minutes, then everyone was doing them.

[@brodykin3505]

Any recommends for wood floor refinishing. I also try to preserve brain cells, and don't really like thick glass-like finishes.

[@davidpietranczyk]

Do you have any content on how to use the soap finish kit? Currently making some nightstands out of maple. That could be a great option but I don’t know how to apply it. Thanks!

[@Z-add]

Odie oil says you need only one coat and you can sand to any grit.

[@thelandgrafable]

Food safe doesn't mean "for cutting boards." I wouldn't recommend Odies for an actual cutting board. Hard wax oils don't penetrate deep enough.

[@UncleJoe1231]

Right, I soak my cutting boards in mineral oil for 24 hours.

[@neleklindt6312]

In terms of gloss, have you compared Rubio and Osmo? I need to find out which can be buffed to the highest gloss. Thanks!

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

I’m pretty sure you can choose the sheen when buying osmo. Rubio has a sheen but it’s mild. The osmo I used in this video was low sheen.

[@kellym3610]

That intro was awesome.

[@NiceShotchannel]

Hello and thanks for your great videos. I'm working on vintage audio systems what is the best option for side wood panels ?

[@williamsweet7511]

thanks for the tip on soap finish for light woods, just ordered them from you

[@angelosantoro7000]

That was as awesome. Thank you for the info!

[@jonq8714]

Which of the four do you comb into that glorious moustache?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

The one that smells like poison

[@markstaub5250]

Excellent info. What I needed to know. Thanks🏁

[@mainly_kayla701]

How do u apply your soap finish, like how long wait after finish to put polish on do you wipe excess off like Rubio, I can’t find directions just bought some

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

I send out application instructions with the kit, did yours get missed? I’ll do a video on it soon but for now.. you want to wait 30 mins or longer between coats. It really depends on your area and the climate. Do not let any application streaks dry on the wood or you’ll have to buff out with a micro fiber. I typically do one coat of finish Scuff One coat of polish Scuff if needed. (Needed if rough to touch) 2nd coat of polish

[@mainly_kayla701]

@@WilliamDouglasCo might have got missed or if it was outside of the box and in the delivery box I could have thrown it out

[@crazyirish4]

Tried and True I thought needed to be applied with cloth like a cheese cloth. I’m with your I hate stains but obviously have to for some customers. I have everyone of these hard wax oils in shop. Hardwax is the shit! Try Briwax though, bet your love it(minus mixing it 🤣)

[@robertoinvests]

What do you recommend for a butcher block countertop something with a hard Janka like Oak

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

We just did one for a customer and used odies oil. It was beautiful and no complaints from the customer

[@randyallaway4085]

Real talk, though- which one tastes the best?

[@TristanJCumpole]

Hmm, I'm not sure about the information being given out here. Osmo PolyX is food safe, as is their Top Oil. I've used both extensively, and beyond the usual "don't drink, careful with rags" caveats, it's friendly. Not easy to clean off skin without using unfriendly solvents, but still.

[@geniusjen78]

I found your video looking for Walrus Oil Furniture Butter reviews. Have you tried that one?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

I have not used that one before

[@barstad-9591]

Love your humor. New subscriber.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Thank you so much!! Really appreciate the support 🙏🏼

[@Marcusstratus]

I like the only finish you use in your shop, A+

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Thanks! I appreciate the comment as well 😀

[@Marcusstratus]

@@WilliamDouglasCo I've used Odies before, but never went over it with steel wool or did two coats. Can you recommend a resource to learn more about the process you use for Odies?

[@johnnosacka9556]

I’m about to finish some interior doors made of Spanish cypress which I’m told is a juniper that’s similar to a mahogany, though lighter in color. Now, I have no idea if that’s correct. The doors are mostly glass with dividers. They will get a fair amount of use. I’ve just started to research these hard oils. Would you do the Ofie’s or the Rubio? Or, would you go with the soap?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

I would use Rubio for that specific application

[@billdyke9745]

The best hard wax oil is Fiddes... (It beats Osmo by a country mile, anyway. Your other choices are not available in the UK. (No doubt there are Black Market sources)...

[@colelf69]

This is awesome

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

colelf69 glad you like it!

[@-aeshe-4951]

Can you layer finishes ? Say a oil finish for the color, a water based polyurethane for the film n protection n Odie's over that cuz a lot of food is gonna fall on the table. Any recommendations ?

[@-aeshe-4951]

It's a very pale color, n i want it to becomes the pleasant white-yellow of Pine n not darken it too much.

[@ginoalary2629]

Yes you can, make sure the oil finish is completely dry before you apply your top coat and you will be fine, it’s actually a very good way to keep the amber look of a solvent finish under a more eco friendly water base finish system.

[@miketype1each]

NEVER use steel wool between coats... that is, unless you want bits of gray stuck in the pores of your wood project. Use of synthetic abrasive pads is fine, but NEVER real steel wool. Nope, not even once. How do I know? I learned the hard way.

[@Vultite]

How do you feel about the Waterlox tung oil?

[@stevenvachon9745]

I have used Osmo before and like it but am considering using Rubio for a large project (big walnut kitchen island). I'm wondering about the length of time you have to use Rubio once it is mixed with the hardener. Is there a time limit?

[@jong4939]

I think its 2-4hrs

[@BlueOriginAire]

comment question: can your in the box kit be tinted for a nutmeg colored tone. We need to match up stair treads to the new engineered floors. Thanx brother.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

That’s a very interesting question.. I’m not sure. I have never tried to add color to it. I’m really not sure what would happen.

[@BlueOriginAire]

@@WilliamDouglasCo No worries. Looking forward to joining the Odie's Revolution

[@MetatronYHWH888]

This is good shit...thank you!

[@maxpoiss]

How do you compare these oil to LIVOS hard oil? Also, do you really need to sand to 320G before applying Odies? Or is it between each coat? Thanx

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

I’ve never heard of livos. Yes they really want you to sand to 320 but they say you can stop at 180 if you’d like but it won’t yield the best results.

[@Lime-Spider1959]

John Goodman does wood !! Cool

[@sampjm1898]

Can I ask which one have the smoothest feeling? thanks 🙏

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Soap finish is the smoothest by far

[@conradfreeman3000]

Isnt Rubio around 4x thr cost of osmo?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

No the cost per sq ft was almost identical when I researched pricing for this video.

[@woodroofguy]

Very helpful video. Thanks! ❤️ Odie’s

[@mohegansun2439]

why did you use a foam pad for osmo?

[@affalada6868]

Hey where's the mustache wax review?

[@draggboy]

I use pretty much nothing but Rubio on a fine piece of furniture, especially walnut. I even used it on my solid beech/walnut Benchcrafted clad Roubo workbench, despite the fact that the waxy slickness isn't ideal until it's worn in a bit... I just like the feel and protection. But there's nothing wrong with spraying lacquer or shellac and there's a reason fine woodworkers have done so since forever. There's an art to it that I consider an entirely separate skill to master in woodworking, especially in the cabinetmaking realm where stains are not a faux pas. I typically prefer to build fine furniture and apply Rubio but I have a wealthy client that asked me to do tons and tons of cabinetry and built-in casework out of hard maple in their house. They had an existing cabinet stain color and a custom profile for the mitered frame style raised panel cabinet doors. So I bought a moulding machine to build the tons of cabinet doors and had to learn the art of matching stains the way a professional architectural millwork shop does and then learn the art of laying down a beautiful lacquer finish. Now that I have an appreciation for the art of architectural millwork and fine cabinetry, I have a new respect for certain stains and spray finishes. They have their place and they take an order of magnitude more skill to do than laying down hard wax oils.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Aaron Dragg yep I’m with you. We do furniture primarily in our shop. I would use lacquer for painted surfaces and cabinetry (boxes) but I’d still use hard wax oil on doors and drawer faces. My whole thing is non material artifice. I’m ok with others not feeling the same about that. It’s just what I love to do and represent.

[@PeterGoode1]

“Gasoline would be a great option” 🤣

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Punch line 🔥

[@naptownplaya32]

Didn’t mention cost. I know Rubio isn’t cheap. Not sure how the others compare.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Brandon Somerville I did mention cost. Rubio and osmo are almost identical in cost / coverage while odies and tried and true are nearly identical. You get a lot of coverage out of all of them and the prices aren’t very different. None of them have an edge

[@drewt3210]

If you're looking for cheap, you may want to find another channel. We're quality-driven here :-) Best, @BranchAndFoundry

[@danb8082]

T&T is substantially cheaper than Odies. Current prices for 9oz Odies is $45. That's $5.00 per ounce. T&T is $19 for 8 oz. or $2.38 an ounce. The 8oz bottle of T&T is the highest price per ounce. A pint is $1.65 an ounce and a quart is $1.33 per ounce. I've used both of these and agree they are very similar but I can buy a quart of T&T for less money than a 9 ounce bottle of Odies. The Odies is 4 times more expensive for a product that does the same thing. Odies does smell better though gotta give it that.@@WilliamDouglasCo hats

[@ThomasRZack]

You didn’t try the mustache wax?

[@SamWanamaker1]

Any preference to which you think is most durable?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Sam Wanamaker I believe that they are all very durable and you have to make sure you follow the directions to each one. If applied correctly, I don’t think one has an edge over another. At least not that I’ve noticed so far.

[@woody350ep1]

Do you need to raise the grain with those hardwax finishes as well?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Jason Woodford I don’t know what everyone els does but I definitely raise the grain

[@woody350ep1]

@@WilliamDouglasCo thanks my dude. I figured it was still necessary but have never used one of these finishes to know for sure. Just trying to do some research to maybe do some projects in it and didn't want to waste my time with an unnecessary step if possible because, as you know, finishing sucks lol.

[@atelier.lignum]

The downside of Osmo is that to have to wait at least 8 hours between coats. With Rubio it-s pretty fast.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Daniel J. Rubio is also meant to be one coat though.

[@jamartin1]

Thank you!💜

[@brewsterly2927]

You are not giving Polyx®-Oil fair judgement: "The dry finish is food safe, as well as safe for humans, animals and plants. Polyx®-Oil Raw contains no biocides or preservatives." It is also fine for children's toys! From the MSDS: Respiratory protection: Not necessary if room is well-ventilated.

[@johnathankoch1570]

You're my idol.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

It’s your world my dude. I’m just living in it 🙌🏻

[@giorgiochristian7689]

Best at 100 grit and 120 grit above 150 the oil does not bond as well

[@nonobrochacho240]

You had me at gasoline. Subscribing.

[@ArrghhMatey]

this was hilarious. subbed.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Thank you! I really appreciate it!

[@scottporush2545]

Awesome video. Have been looking forward to it since you mentioned it a few months back. Did you get a chance to test the durability differences? I’m a big Odie’s fan (it’s the only finish I use 👨🏻) but have always been told it’s not as durable as Rubio or Osmo. Wondering if you found that to be true?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Scott Porush man they are all the same. You just have to apply it correctly. I think most people don’t take seriously the importance of the application process

[@scottporush2545]

@@WilliamDouglasCo I think you’re totally right. Seems like that’s the case especially with the Odies since it is a bit more tedious to do correctly.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Scott Porush just have to follow them instructions!

[@thwwoodcraft1449]

Intro and river table dis earned a sub.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Yesss!!! Thank you!

[@danielmock1006]

That bleep tone at the end murdered my ears

[@stevensrspcplusmc]

Minn wax wipe on poly 👍😊

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Never tried it

[@stevensrspcplusmc]

I use the satin it’s cheap and looks great.. use steel wool between coats and it’s like silk..would like to try some of the finishes that you use.👍😊

[@ronalddagostino3674]

why didnt you show the results close and magnified? isnt that the whole question?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

They’re all so similar it wasn’t necessary. You can’t even tell them apart without feeling them. The odies and tried & true look a little better but I couldn’t pick up on that in video.

[@AudioPhun]

Its funny that you say that you don't use poly but the Osmo is a poly. The Rubio is an epoxy.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

They are both hard wax oil finishes bud

[@JuiceBuzz]

Osmo is not a poly. It actually allows the wood to breathe and is not a plastic coating which poly ultimately is. .

[@michaelthompson5875]

Thanks for the great summary of these products. I thought Tried and True advertises all of its finishes as food safe but please don't quote me on that, I'm just going from memory. Oh and one point of clarification...mustache wax is NOT a suitable finish for black walnut? Hahahahahaha sorry I had to.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Haha I should have tried it!

[@Jimbojam]

people say "these ones" often and really, "these" is proper. "these ones" is redundant.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Got me

[@chm1701]

Well, I’ve liked it and I already subscribe. Oh, and this can be classed as my comment.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Chris Morris thank you Chris 🙏🏼

[@chm1701]

@@WilliamDouglasCo. No problem my friend. I was looking at your soap kit too, but sadly, it seems you don’t deliver to the UK... Yet! 😬 But it does look a rather fancy kit for my very simplistic dovetail boxes (I’m learning for fun and giving them to friends). Would you suggest any of the other finishing products in this video for a dovetail box? Perhaps Odies Oil? Thank you as always 👍

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Chris Morris odies or tried and true!! Also.. you can look up how to make a traditional Scandinavian soap finish if you really want that! Wish I could ship to you but I’ve had some bad experience shipping overseas so far!

[@chm1701]

@@WilliamDouglasCo Once again, you’ve come up trumps with great advice. That’s brilliant. Thank you. I’ll take a look at the soap finish too. I really liked the finish yours gives, but I can understand about overseas delivery horror stories; it’s bad enough send things within our own countries 😂

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Chris Morris haha that’s funny but also sad 😔

[@Grabber10]

Osmo is definitely food safe

[@pterodox123]

This is an application test, not time, penetration or durability test.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Yes that’s a good point

[@bobripkey3924]

Rule number 1 🤣🤣🤣

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

😬😬😬😬

[@aok2727]

Too stinking funny.

[@punkrockdave1000]

But is that finish vegan friendly?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

David Page 😂😂 you gon’ eat the damn thing?

[@punkrockdave1000]

@@WilliamDouglasCo thats one of my favorites.

[@rusticresawed5933]

Gold! 😂🤣😂🤣

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

I like to go back and rewatch the intro when I need a laugh

[@davidellis251]

Use gasoline on river tables 😂

[@travisedwards9983]

Just don't say anything negative about Odies or question anything. Owner will go completely off the rails on you and start saying some crazyyyyyy shit.

[@bendoodson5208]

This is the best, I love it when you guys put your humor into the videos! Also, shop rule #1 on the board is just a great life tip in general and people should be aware of it.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Benny Doodson I didn’t mean for that to be in the video hahah

[@bendoodson5208]

@@WilliamDouglasCo Haha I loved it man, gave me a good chuckle. Good video all up !

[@UncleJoe1231]

I started using Osmo about 6 months ago & absolutely love it!! Plus, it IS food safe!! the smell goes away & the truth is it does such a good job I never even noticed it. I usually start with the thin & then use the Poly-x for the final coat!! Anyone worrying about how long it takes to put a finish on doesn't really care about the finish!! Results are all I care about.

[@buckhorncortez]

Anyone worrying about how long it takes to put on a finish is doing it professionally to make money and time spent means either charging more money or making less money. Time is a real consideration for professionals.

[@johnb8807]

Exactly. It’s lacquer or go home for me. Granted I’m very experienced with lacquer, altering sheens, etc… but given the dry time and protection it offers, none of these oils touch it.

[@NoDiamondRanch]

... or there are other constraints, like finishing a floor where vacating an entire house for days on end isn't practical or possible. Or where there is a lack of space for finishing a large quantity of materials and they need to dry and get off the rack to make room for more...

[@jeromechoquet2075]

the odor is unbearable 😄

[@UncleJoe1231]

@@jeromechoquet2075 Osmo doesn't have hardly any odor at all

[@PEZ4949]

OSMO is food safe. Although not tested for U.S. standards when it was imported from Germany, it meets European and German standards: "When dry, finish is safe for humans, animals and plants and is suitable for children‘s toys as per EN 71.3 (European norm) and is saliva-resistant and sweatproof according to DIN 53160 (German industrial norm)."

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Thank you for the info!

[@northroadwoodwork8616]

He's alive! I'm a big fan of Danish oil, use tons of it, but I have to admit I've always felt some guilt on account of all the poor Danish souls that were pressed to make it.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

North Road Woodwork thank you for watching! I haven’t used danish oil before. Is it similar to a hard wax oil?

[@northroadwoodwork8616]

@@WilliamDouglasCo It's actually a blend of oil with some amount of varnish in it. My other go to, especially for food safe, is pure Tung oil thinned with citrus solvent.

[@woody350ep1]

@@WilliamDouglasCo it's basically another version of a wiping varnish.

[@Real.Estate.Report]

So you don't ever keep it simple and just use good old fashioned spray paint?

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

How in the hell did I miss this comment?

[@TreeOfLifeWoodworking]

Personally for my commissioned work I will stick to Conversion Varnish forever. There is simply no superior finish in terms of long lasting protection. I don't wanna sell something that will look bad in a year from wear, or force customers to have to add more finish or refinish, etc.

[@WilliamDouglasCo]

Nathan Terepocki to each there own! I personally don’t like it.

[@JayCWhiteCloud]

O.K....!!!... someone owes me for the time it's taking me cleaning up the coffee I blew out my nose when he said..."Ah...gasoline would be a great option for that..."...LMAO...This is now one of my favorite channels though outside the scope of woodworking I do...I still love it here!!! As for the recommended finishes...Well...Er...Uh...???...NO...!!!...Sorry...you lost me on this one too...BIG TIME!!! Simply put, the reason "antiques" have the unmatched patinas they developed (a big part of their value!!!) is the means, methods, and material applications of their finishes...and those are all-natural and traditional in context...Thus, one either makes their own NATURAL finishes from raw materials...or...gets them blended by someone that knows what traditional finishes are... For professional to hobbyists that haven't "gotten there" yet on this skill set...go with old recipes and experiments or a place like "Heritage Finishes." Worked with these folks for over 30 years for big projects and usually purchase stock in 50-gallon barrels to blend exactly what is needed... Core "work-horse" materials...beeswax...pine rosin (or one of the Middle Easter/Asin plant rosin)...flax oil...walnut oil...tung oil...citrus oil as a cutter/carrier. These form the foundation for some of the best and oldest finishes in the world still today and are found on pieces over 2000 years old!