Why Abandon "J" & "L" Anchor Bolts in Wood Framing Construction FOR GOOD?

[@JthaEngineer]

While the tone of this video may sound like I am against the use of J/L bolts period, there isn't really much documented evidence I've found that shows failures in wood residential or commercial construction as a result of J/L bolts. J/L bolts are still technically allowed in the residential code and your building official may not have a problem with them either. The intent is to pass information about the issues other industries have had with them that I think might be a good idea to implement in residential construction. If you've attached walls to concrete using J/L bolts, it's ok :) I think J/L bolts have a place in very specific circumstances, however I do think there are much better options that are easier to utilize and do the job much better.

[@dwttexjw4796]

Ah, I read this after posting my comment.....

[@johnjv24]

So the titan bolt and wedge anchors will do just as good of a job as the cast in bolt on for example use with at htt5 tie down?

[@JthaEngineer]

@@johnjv24 the HTT5 is a hold down that’s typically used for shear wall tension hold downs instead of sill plate anchorage like here. I don’t think Simpson has tested wedge or screw anchors for that application. Wouldn’t hurt to ask them about substituting cast-in for post installed.

[@johnjv24]

This is what they told me. I asked them a while back about using titan hd concrete screw with htt5. “It is acceptable to use a Simpson Titen HD concrete screw as the anchor with our HTT5 tension tie connector. Always make sure to determine the anchor capacity for your installation conditions and use the smaller of the anchor or connector capacities when designing the connection. Simpson has a web application called Holdown Selector that can help you select the best Simpson holdown and aid in the anchorage as well. I have included a link to this web application below.“

[@JthaEngineer]

@@johnjv24 I didn’t even realize you responded…. My bad in that case I would consider them for holddowns if the calculated uplift is small enough where it doesn’t require a deep embedment into the concrete. If it needs to be embedded deep, say 12”, I would go the cast-in option.

[@bridgerbaird7901]

I'm also a licensed structural engineer specializing in residential and high end residential design. I don't agree with the conclusion to substitute post-installed options for cast-in-place anchor bolts. While most contractors are going to love your video and always ask for a post-installed substitute, it's not a one for one exchange. The capacity of post-installed options is substantially less than cast-in-place anchors. Not to mention that breakout is of equal concern and maybe even greater depending on construction practices and how the install went. Overall, substituting post-installed anchors for cast-in-place simply because they are easier to install for contractors is not enough to change industry standards. If your issue is with the breakout capacity being limited to the top of the J, then you can always substitute a straight bolt with a plate washer sandwiched between two nuts for substantially higher capacity. I think this video leads people astray.

[@JthaEngineer]

Agree! That’s why there’s more information posted in the comments and description. Thanks for sharing! Cheers!

[@housydoing]

yeah, this video is bs

[@frotobaggins7169]

I agree, post install fastners are 100% about ease of use because contractors don't want to take the time or learn the skill of laying out J bolts. Laziness. The fastner manufacures are more than happy to go along because the J bolts cost less.

[@timothytimmerman1136]

Cross grain bending of the wood is far below the bearing capacity of the L bolt (aka pull-out). Headed/nut washer should be used when up lift is significant.

[@BillyCarsley]

So sandwich the concrete with washers basically?

[@randallthomas5207]

J-bolts, with a linear rebar, running between them, laying in the "J" greatly increases the pullout resistance, and avoids wet setting issues.

Exactly! The poster of this video is just a shill for cheap and shoddy contractors.

[@onestoptechnologies7305]

Agreed! Terrible swap!

[@jasonruff1270]

or better yet you could weld the rebar to the j bolts making them one.

[@randallthomas5207]

@@jasonruff1270 Rebar is heat treated. When you weld it, it changes the tensile strength.

[@NATIVESUNSETS65]

@@jasonruff1270 There are adjustable plastic brackets that can be screwed to the forms that can hold a J-bolt in place and you use tie -wire to hold the rebar on the J-Bolt . J-Bolts with a rebar cage will outperform any after pour anchoring system . . . Period !

[@17kcotsdoow86]

How 'bout you show us the threaded and epoxy anchors being pulled with your test jig like you did with the L bolt? I'm having a hard time believing the concrete wouldn't break and blow out in the same way or that the bolts wouldn't just pull out. I just want to see it. Everything looks good on paper.

[@17kcotsdoow86]

@Mastinox803 I believe a lot can be summed up in one word. 'MARKETING'

[@TheDiverJim]

As a fellow engineer, I would have expected test data to prove the point. Mechanically, i don’t see how the 2 post pour options would provide more holding force. The cam lock is worse. The epoxy is the only solution that distributes more load to the lateral surface.

[@CDing123]

I agrée with you. At least the L bolt can hook on the concrete 1~2 inches around it. The post anchor bolt just use the force few mm around it. I seriously doubt the can provide the same force in the same condition.

[@tivaughnjenkins9898]

J bolt everyday fam

[@kevinfarrell329]

And none of those bolts are meant to resist uplift anyway, at least not in the global sense of the whole house uplift that was discussed in the video. Hold down anchors (bolts or straps) that resist uplift are generally cast in place anyway, unless it's a retrofit situation.

[@chrisanthony579]

When we forget or mis-position an anchor bolt the engineers solution is always epoxy

[@asbestosfiber]

It took me all of about 20 seconds to get a copy of 12 page specs on the bolts from Simpson.

[@chrisanthony579]

Good video. We see L bolts in commercial all the time but they aren't those little things your are showing. Not only are they bigger in all directions, they are usually paired with the horizontal rebar, the "L" hooks under the horizontal. In residential, IF you have enough wind to pull out a series of L bolts, you likely have much more important things to worry about. As an PE, you likely know the cause of failure is rarely one thing, the system failed not just one thing. For the sleeve or wedge anchors, the only person that knows if they "grabbed" or not is the person who installed it unless an inspector is going to walk around with a torque wrench. Epoxy is good IF the installer, usually the unskilled crackhead cleans out the hole correctly. I never messed with screw in anchor bolts Engineers need to stop trying to reinvent the wheel and just make a proven practice better. Make the horizontal part bigger and/or tile them to a horizontal and call it a day. 30 years as a commercial CM.

[@onestoptechnologies7305]

Agreed! This is a terrible swap!

[@5400bowen]

You called it, hook it under rebar, or put a longer horizontal on the bolt, or a washer or plate etc. on the bottom of the bolt. It's weird he shows a test with the J bolt barely under the surface if the concrete. You can only use the horizontal part for testing (?!?), but buried in 6-8 inches of concrete makes a huge difference

[@shopart1488]

I have used J bolts for 50 years. Never had any type of problems and I will continue to use them. Just because screw bolts are new doesn’t mean it’s better. Expansion bolts cause to much long term pressures on very fragile concrete. We pour all our foundations then insert the J bolts and will continue.

[@jasonmckenzie4289]

In the bahamas we tie J bolts to the belt steel before forming up and pouring the concrete belt. So pulling them out would be impossible.

[@ibrahimmomani9451]

Nice presentation and clear information, mate! However, I would avoid mechanical anchors, which induce increased stresses on a small section. I highly recommend the J & L bar as an engineer. But, as you said, it's more convenient to use other types of anchors for site difficulties. Chemical bond anchors are a good alternative after concrete casting, but, the downside is that it's expensive. A good engineer will sit down with his builder and discuss preferred construction methods and a budget, as some builders have more confidence to choose specific options.

[@yodaiam1000]

You generally don't want to use wedge anchors on a foundation stem wall (which is most of the time). The distance from the centre of the bolt to the edge of the concrete is too short to comply with the manufacturer's minimum requirements. You can even potentially blow out the concrete. The wedges push out and if the concrete is too thin, it will blow out. The close edge distance also substantially reduces the capacity of the bolt.

[@farstrider79]

Yeah, I hate wedge anchors. They're far more of a hassle than any other.

[@total2199]

I believe that this movie was created as a promo for the post-installed anchor industry. The code requires CIP anchors to be emended 7” min. which means that overall length of the anchor must be more or less 11”. Can you imagine how much the 5/8” diam. KB-TZ2 SS (they do not fabricate HDG stock) anchor of this size is going to cost? It is a major impact on the construction cost. Good luck! So, CIP anchors are here to stay. In addition to what I have said above consider the following: 1. To install post-installed anchors into the sill plate (review the ICC Report #4266, for example) you need to provide a continuous special inspection at the site which can only be performed by an authorized third party, special inspection agency. I can guarantee you that it will triple cost of installation compare to the CIP anchors. 2. Please also show correct anchors with standard 90 Deg. hooks, not what was shown at the beginning of the video. What you showed was a substandard anchor with a short tale. See ACI318 or CRSI manual for correct dimensions. Good luck from California, SE.

[@CanadaDouker]

Practically, the post installed anchors would not be as strong as the J anchor bolts. Since you have to drill a larger holes with a lot of concrete dust, if test on sites, the J anchor bolts would have a better performance.

[@neeosstuff7540]

None of the options you mention spread the tension load across concrete. A J bolt hooked on a horizontal rebar will far exceed everything for resisting uplift forces. But I definitely agree having to preposition the anchoring is a pain in the butt.

[@Nctbgs]

Very difficult to get the J bolt under horizontal rebar

[@yodaiam1000]

The limiting factor are the nails from the sheathing to the sill plate and cracking of the sill plate.

[@meshedgears2794]

I have to disagree with this video, you as a P.E. should design based on safety or structural integrity but do it in the most cost effective way you can. If you were just referring to a retrofit solution then okay drilling and epoxy or screws would be on the list. But just saying no is a dis-service to your clients. L bolts are not for uplift, they are mostly about lateral movement, the nuts are not even tight typically. Uplift resistance is supplied by HUD style connectors for both slab or raised floor and the HUDs are connected directly to the studs. Mud sills are not part of the load path on the raised floor diaphragm or a slab. Using drilled anchors after the fact is just expensive from a labor stand point. What I noticed is a larger supplier base for L bolts which means the deep pocket corporations can lobby out the use of a low margin product they can no longer protect with a patent. What you see now is an overly complex anchor system they have complete control over with the associated higher price. -MG

[@JthaEngineer]

I think you missed my paragraph where I comment on the use of L/J anchor bolts, but that’s ok! Thank you for your comment. I’m not sure what an HUD is, but I think you’re referring to an HDU (hold down anchor). If I’m wrong, respond with exactly what you’re referring to. HDUs are provided specifically for shear walls to resist uplift as a result of the shear wall wanting to rack (AKA rotating at the corner from a lateral shear force). They are typically provided at the ends of a shear wall. This is not commonly used to resist uplift from wind creating suction forces at the roof, causing the roof to lift away from the walls. That is typically done by anchor bolts attached at the mudsill to the foundation, or by a special mudsill anchor hardware. So unless you’re attaching HDUs to every single stud, which I feel is not cost effective at all, then I can understand slightly. Your mudsill comment is off. Mudsills refer to a PT plate sitting directly on the foundation. On a raised floor, we refer to that as a “bottom plate”. BOTH of those in today’s American construction standards are structurally necessary and part of the load path for gravity and lateral forces. Which I plan on explaining in the future. As a P.E., I have every right to tell a client “NO” if I’m contracted to work with a client on a project that I’m designing and they want to use a structural item in a manner that it should NOT be used for. That is part of my responsibility. And although you missed my paragraph in the comments pertaining to my harshness over cast-in bolts in this video, L/J bolts have a place in building construction in many applications. I would be doing more of a disservice not saying anything as opposed to proceeding with caveats. But that’s just my opinion.

[@meshedgears2794]

@@JthaEngineer HUD was a typo, it is HDU. Maybe we use different terms for the components. The L or J bolts are still being specified by P.E.s but they do not come with uplift tables. You can find tables if you look in older catalogs etc. In fact Simpson only sells L bolts in Canada according to there web site, there is more money in Titan screws. Terminology is interesting here, a mud sill in my book is pressure treated because it comes into contact with the concrete and varies in size based on local codes or sometimes the local inspectors whims... The bottom plate is part of the wall and is typically the same 2x material as the wall itself. I am not sure which American construction standards you are referring to there are so many and the local jurisdictions can and do reject some of the sections. I think my mudsill comment is right on, it is only lateral loading and gravity, how is that part of the load resistance when the bolt used to hold the HDU is extended beyond the mudsill and directly ties to the HDU connector, which is tied to the stud or column with nails or screws. I am also confused by the your statement that the load path went through the mudsill (bottom plate for you) then the load path is limited to the Pull out force of the toe nails in the stud. Those values a so small that you could never resist several thousand pound uplift loads. The HDU attachments are loading the screws or nails in shear a much stronger way of loading the connection. As a P.E. you can tell the client no, that is true, and I would expect nothing less when necessary, but I would also expect you to provide the full information as a P.E. so the client can decide for themselves if your the P.E. they want to use especially if it cost more. I would also expect you to know the local codes and the quality of the work teams in your area. If the teams are more than competent using the drill in place method then sure specify that method. In my area the teams are less than precise and tend to speed over accuracy, which is why cast in place L bolts are still being used, and in fact are required by the engineers and the county/city inspectors. If I went with drill in screws I would be required to have the engineer of record (the P.E.) come and do a special inspection which again cost more money. (minimum charges site visit and letter saying it was done correctly) -MG

[@JthaEngineer]

@@meshedgears2794 I can tell this is not going to go anywhere because there is a clear difference and mix up of words in regards to what a mudsill is vs a bottom plate, what HDUs do for a building, and what this video is addressing. There is also a clear difference in detailing a wood structure that you may practice vs how other practice, which I can understand but do not have the time to go back & forth through a comment section. I understand what you’re saying, but I don’t think you understand what I’m saying. But I will personally meet with you through zoom, teams, or whatever platform and explain exactly what I’m talking about to you. Otherwise I’ll leave this conversation where it is now. Thanks!

[@meshedgears2794]

@@JthaEngineer Hey leaving it where it's at works for me, different terminology, different regions, and different approaches to solving a design structural problem. I may pop in to see the future videos on occasion. I also think there is nothing wrong with wanting to get information to those who are interested. I have to give credit to you for doing videos in the first place its a lot of work and time involved it getting them created and edited. My ugly mug would just break the camera. Again, I may take a look from time to time..so don't quit all information is good information for building science. -MG

[@RJ-jx6jn]

I am a general contractor with 40 years in the field experience and if the anchor bolts are installed as they should be, by code, they are to be tie wired and hooked to the horizontal strand of rebar. The sleeve anchor and screws you show are a far less substantial means of anchoring a sill plate and instill a false sense of security in folks who haven't a clue of construction codes and practices. Just my 2 cents.

[@danielashton5697]

Exactly what I was going to say!! Great call out!

[@manatatwaiwing1314]

I recently replaced a section of rotted sill and rim board on a 50year old house and discovered the block wall foundation had zero anchor bolts. The house was resting on the foundation and had not budged at all. Most barns in my area are sitting on stone foundations with mudsills in various states of decay and have no mechanical tie to the stones. I live in new england where we do not have tornadoes or hurricanes but it seems like this issue of anchors bolts just gets beaten to death.

[@aaronorr5586]

And that is New England. If you look at Tornado tracks over the past decades of data collection you will find that nearly a Quarter of Lower 48 US territory fall within tornado activity. That is why you have code requirements and then you have accepted practices in certain areas.

[@designbuild7128]

fwiw. Growing up in a hurricane prone area that also can have some tornadic activity, most old homes, etc weren't anchored. I lived in a small 1910 house that was 10-15' above the mean high water mark and no floating away ever happened (heartpine house on brick piers). I dont condone it now, because I've also seen 'tied down' houses floated off their foundations and smaller homes partly sitting on trees.

[@IVORY123100]

In my experience . Ever notice the slot on a CMU unit . That is where an L is supposed to be hooked . Not too many masons take the time to do that . Most with just push one down and core fill with broken cull and slop mortar in the cell .. They all wiggle . On concrete .. Most will just push one down and wiggle it , most are out of plumb and require knocking straight which shocks the concrete , On the perimeters of monolithic slabs , Cracks the concrete and sometimes breaks off the concrete , The threaded anchors are fine . But they can shatter the perimeters as well when tightening thus rendering them useless.. In the field " anywhere besides and edge " . Epoxy has it's attributes as well . Drill the hole , blow it out and squeeze in the epoxy ..Yet in my experience .. If the hole has the least little dust .. It can be pulled up with ease when tightening So they really need to be cleaned out with with a damp cleaning tool . I find it hard to believe a sleeve or expansion anchor is better than a L bolt . Drill the hole and pound them in . They can be pulled up and out when tightening . So are you saying an L bolt can pull out easier than a sleeve. Wedge It ?? .. In a perfect world .. The J bolt is supposed to be hooked under rebar.. But few put the effort into making sure they are hooked and few put the rebar in the running location . It's always Blow and Go . In my experience I have worked on some " Beauties " When installing the mudsills . The carpenters would just use cut nails , case hardened , or a sinker . Basically worthless . Nailing into a CMU cell that has been filled with cull brick and topped off with a skimming of mortar !! LOL . . Many plates shook and made it hard to layout with plates doing The Shakes .. I remember watching on the local news , Houses floating off their foundations completely intact during a flood . LOL . Just recently . I couldn't work for a stupid builder . Had to leave . They were building basically a shed " Office " for what I called a Hooverville .. They were using anchor straps on a monolith and secured them to the plates with ... Aluminum roofing nails !!!! .. I jokingly suggested " Why not a thumbtack ?" they are basically the same . It wasn't until they said I was insane about setting a gatepost . They dug a 2' deep hole and set the 6x6 in and powdered in a bag of concrete and wet it .. Dry Packing !! . I said it aint worth a pile of dung . I even said " If drypacking is so good .. Then why don't concrete trucks just deliver the powder when pouring a footer ?" Imagine the fuel savings !! .. Next day I helped install the gate with a wary eye . I knew what was going to happen . Shimmed the gate in the hole and attached the hinges . Released the shims and the gate lurched in 2" .. rendering the gate inoperable !! LOL .. " Well You gonna have to fix that " .Years ago I had a saying " Why do it right , when you can do it twice and twice is twice as nice and a third time . Moi !!" .. I told them .. Here is the solution .. Did the hole bigger ! make an elephants foot hole , screws in some deckmate screws into the post . Like talons on an eagle and mix the concrete this time .. " Well we'll need a wheelbarrow !" .. Nope . Just a small tarp or piece of housewrap .Break the bag of concrete in the middle . pour in the water and pick up the corners and agitate !! . then sluice it in !! . I refused to participate in their stupidity anymore . I asked the builder " Is this the type of crap you build ?.. Count me out !!" See ya .. .. When I was hired .. He told the other guys " I don't know if I should hire him .. He's a super carpenter " .. I just wanted a little work while I am fighting Stage 4 cancer . I didn't want to run a crew again . I can't !! but I can be one hell of a hired gun when I am not sick . A few video ago .. You had a video about a balloon framing .. On one of this Builders projects .. They framed an 8' wall . and then framed atop it to the gable rafter . It shook back and forth 5 " with minimal effort . . I said "It should have been balloon framed " .. He said balloon framing is against Code !!! .. Huh !! .. The balloon framing he was talking about is where 2 story walls are framed and joist are sistered along the sides of the studs .. It's doable but anchoring must be perfect . I don't even do that'' Thats ancient . .. I told him .. It will continue to shake and poses a problem . The interior was vaulted .. I suggested .. at the very least .. stiffen the plate line with a LVL laid flat on the plate .. Turn it into a shelf !! . of put a perpendicular shear wall at midspan .. Use it for concessions in the future . Anything !! .. He said the collar ties will stiffen it and I was a jerk and said " No it wont" .. At these times .. You just bite your tongue and hope your eyes don't roll .. I ramble .. I have 40 years of experience and have seen most everything .. I have seen products that were revolutionary at the time , That ended up problematic . Most in the construction business are just about . Get it done with the least of money ,effort and hope nobody notices .. It's Bang Bang Bang .. Money Please . Most carpenters just follow and many don't consider the entirety . They were told and did . Check Please . . I have seen paid off Building Inspectors , Engineers that were hardcore and others were Slip and Slide . Architects that levitated and could do no wrong but had 100 mistakes per plan .Others that were sharp as a razor . Most custom homes have a myriad of problems looming in the years to come .. Remodeling business is booming

[@zaiks0105]

Wow ... 👍👍👍. I knew stuffs done using my own hands are the most trustworthy but never expect how bad it is ... if one leaves it to the "professionals"

[@JosephPolder]

Hi Jay, good stuff. Just want to add my two cents. Typically L & J bolts are used for shear load, not uplift. Secondly, the wedge anchor might cause concrete spauling with close edge distance installations. Where the screw anchor at 1 3/4” isn’t a concern.

[@kevinfarrell329]

Thank you. Hold down anchors are cast in place anyway, unless it's a retrofit situation. There's no load reason not to use J bolts for lateral restraint. The main reason not to use J bolts is- inevitably the layout gets messed up or framing changes and you end up with a bolt right under a stud or post and have to cut it off and use a post-installed anchor. After you do that a few times you think about just using post-installed to begin with. Then you remember how much they cost, and buy j bolts anyway and swear at the guys to do better on layout, lol.

[@teraxiel]

I am BEYOND highly skeptical that any of the alternatives presented have greater pull out resistance than a J bolt. Especially now that 5/8" have become the standard in stead of the 1/2".

[@MrTIGERH1752]

Always hooked "J " bolts under the rebar. How would any thing just pushed into wet concrete have any holding power??? Tim

[@CDing123]

I do not agree with your comments. Do you know you can put a very long L bolt such as 12-18 inch or even more into the concrete. There are also bolt holder available which can be installed before concrete pouring. Therefore you can accurately install bolt and pour concrete over it. You can also tie it to the rebar if design properly. It is very hard to drill a hole in concrete as such depth. Please provide some comparisons for both methods under similar conditions. Without comparison, it is not persuasive.

[@sroyal76]

I just came across your channel. I'm sorry to see that you have not continued but considering the last few years I am sure you have been an extremely busy engineer. I wish you the best. I wonder if you can explain considerations when building a single wall (2x6 16 o.c.) over 12' tall. God bless you.

[@AF-O6]

My experience is that drilling is easier and way more accurate without having to hang out material in the sill plate. Post drilled threaded bolts are commonly used in pole barn construction, and are more than adequate to hold the structure to the foundation. Having said that, I use j-bolts per code then add extra drill ins so that I have an anchor every 32”.

[@markdaniel8740]

Post installed anchors are for people who can't figure out where the walls are going. J and L bolts are less expensive and stronger according to the published data for similar sizes.

[@jamescole3152]

I agree the j bolts are harder to install but they are probably cheaper too. And no way are the drilled in anchors as strong. I like the drill in anchors because I am not a pro, just a homeowner.

[@stickyfox]

Do you know how much work and study it takes to earn a PE license, and how many people fail the exam? If he says a post-cast anchor is stronger, you should take his word for it, because the architect designing your house calls him up when he has questions about structure. This isn't a phony engineer like Elon Musk or Stockton Rush.

[@dwttexjw4796]

Nice video. But, I'm not sure if I agree completely. Firstly, it is not difficult to install J/L bolts. Those in the trade have been doing it for litteraly decades w/o issues. Secondly, where is the proof (aka testing video) showing J/L bolts failing due to uplift forces? And, thirdly, I deal with structural engineers all the time and most (if not all) of the specifications for AB have been the typical J/L bolts. Of course, using the screw-in bolts, and the expansion bolts are also good choices if the concrete is already poured. Otherwise, I don't see why a structural engineer would phase these out when they are perfectly fine and gets the job done 100% of the time (provided its new poured concrete). Thanks.

[@seanm3226]

At 1:22 into the video he makes reference to uplift failure.

[@SimonSolorio]

Great video, and I agree with your comment. I personally do not recommend expansion bolts or adhesive anchors at slab/foundation edges. If bolt placement is missed, we do use adhesive anchors, but installed at a slight angle. Also, it bolt is going to be used to resust uplift. I do not use J-bolts, I design and use treaded anchors with a nut and wssher.

[@kenp3L]

Text at 1:51 states: “J/L bolt failures have been linked to bolts slipping off the concrete along the vertical shaft.” I don’t know what your source is for this assertion, but it does not withstand theoretical scrutiny. First off, the bolt shown has clearly not failed; it is the concrete that has failed. Ideally, you actually _want_ to allow axial movement of the bolt w.r.t. the concrete at all points along the bolt, except, of course, deep at the fender washer or “J” or “L” area. Remember, concrete is strong in compression and weak in tension. Also keep in mind that the anchor bolt (as with all elastic materials) there will be elongation resulting from the axial force. If the bolt is bonded to the concrete, as the bolt is loaded, part of the load will be transferred to the concrete. Near the surface, you want all of the tension to be borne by the steel bolt, and none by the concrete, lest we see the failure type shown at 1:29. This why tape or tubing for the upper portion of the bolt is sometimes specified to prevent bonding to the concrete.

[@dougmann5362]

What about tying the L bolts to horizontal rebar prior to pouring? I’m building a steel PEMB and was thinking having the guys tie the 1/2” rebar in the beam to the bolts.

[@JthaEngineer]

For a PEMB I would recommend not using L bolts at all. Those buildings are very susceptible to uplift in high wind because they’re so light and the research into failures of those bolts have centered around PEMBs and L bolts. I would use a cast-in straight bolt with a heavy hex head embedded in the concrete. I’m assuming you’re setting the frames on a slab with a grade beam so I’m going to run with that assumption from here. The horizontal bars likely do provide some help, but it’s vertical bars that would do the best to help prevent a failure due to uplift. But the horizontal bars do help in other ways without making this comment even longer. I have done what’s called “tension anchor reinforcement”. “U” bars are put in the concrete in such a way where the vertical legs of the “U” align in close proximity to the base plate anchors, but it’s not tied to the anchor. The vertical legs just need to be in close proximity to the anchor. I suppose you could do this with L bolts, but I haven’t seen anything that says it should be tied to the anchors and I haven’t or know of an engineer that has done that. Again almost all engineers I’ve worked with & learned from designing steel buildings aren’t using L bolts because the organization responsible for writing the steel code recommends not using them. But there may be those engineers who don’t mind. But lastly I would highly recommend you get a structural engineer to provide foundation drawings. If your building is a simple rectangle and small, a competent SE could turn that around for you very quick for not a lot of money and give you the peace of mind of a sound foundation system. Hope that helps!

[@GMartinez777]

I didn’t know J-Bolts were used to withstand uplift loads. That is why engineers specify hold downs with specific uplift capacity based on the conditions or structural calculations results.

[@powerwagon3731]

I’ve been building medium and high end houses for 30 years and do my own foundation work. I’ve never even remotely had a problem with “j”. Bolts even in Alaska’s seismic conditions. I used 12x5/8 bolts 4 ft. O.C. As far as proper placement use a reusable plastic support that allows proper height and edge distance and you can float under them too.

[@garycornelisse9228]

Interesting video, the comments contributors are as interesting. I've used L bolts for over 50 years. I like them but one needs to be careful where you place them.

[@historygradstu]

I was a tool and die maker for over 40 years in some very heavy metal industry with heavy machinery anchored to concrete floors...i have seen a lot of red head anchor bolts pull out of floors....these anchors bolts were sometimes inch in dliameter in 8 inch concrete pads....seen them get jerked right out by heavy equipment, but never a j bolt of he same diameter...seen them shear but never pull out

[@drrichardpaul]

If you’re a contractor and work in the field, J and L volts are essential. They’re for more than just what you’re saying. Bricklayers use a form of J and L bolts when tying brick into the side of the house. This is the difference between actually doing the job and thinking about doing the job. I was a construction steamfitting and electric for years. I saw the “plans” of engineers and designers. Most of the time, I saw what they said and laughed. For example, an engineer once had an outlet in the middle of where a double door was supposed to be. Now, I’m no engineer, but I think having an outlet in the middle of a double door is unnecessary and potentially deadly. I chose to ignore the plans and did not put an outlet in the middle of a double door. (We’re talking 3 foot from there floor. Another time I had an engineer try to tell me that a 351 Cleveland and a 351 Modified Windsor didn’t use the same engine block. I’m no expert, but I think the only difference is how the timing worked in the engines. I could also be wrong but I believe the only 351 engine block that was distant is the Windsor model. They didn’t recess turn timing chain. Other than that, as far as the blocks, they’re per much the same. But, I’m no engineer, so I could be wrong. I’m 52 years old. I’ve seen “new” ideas come and go. I understand it’s to “secure” Society, but it also creates an undue burden. First, J and L bolts are easier to put in when they concrete is wet, and if you know what your doing you can get a whole city block done in a day. Yes, these “other products” appear great. I understand the physics behind these ideas. I recommend the expansion bolts if the concrete is already hard. I trust it because of vote it’s designed. The screws are pretty tame. I wouldn’t recommend either of them under any circumstances with expansion bolts are just as cost effective. Engineers and designers are great. They’re needed to help guide us. They shouldn’t be the last voice you hear from, though. Talk to people that actually work with these products. I worked with them until I started driving Truck to make more money.

[@devmeistersuperprecision4155]

Hang on here. I learned how to do foundations from an old high school buddy in the trade. It was not covered in engineering school. Rebar is a big deal. The use of rebar I’d carefully documented. What I like to do and granted it’s tricky, is to slip the j bolt into the mud and then rotate it 90 degrees and slowly lift up. What happens is the bend is now under the length of #4 rebar. You can feel it catch as you fish around. Of course, one of the biggest problems is to put J bolts in the wrong place. Code dictates the placement schedule which sometimes interferes with the framing and sill plate. This is a pain. So the foundation drawing should show placement of these bolts. When needed, I will augment or repair as needed using a Titan bolt by Simpson.

[@lufknuht5960]

My common sense indicates that an L bolt has a more secure connection than does some screw. But a test showing what is the maximum resistance to pull out is needed. And I wonder if L bolts ever pull out instead of ripping through the concrete?

[@MurDocInc]

Most likely the concrete will fail first unless the anchors are small. L bolts put tension on the concrete only on the bent side. While screw/wedge anchors spread the tension all around. It`s like half a cone vs full cone spread.

[@squidlybytes]

The L bolt only effectively binds at the bent section; the shaft offers effectively zero binding force. With an adhesive anchor, the bond exists across the entire surface of the hole and bolt.

[@deplorablesteve7442]

This was by far the best video I found on anchor bolts. My next step was going to be finding the ICR code regarding them. The video took care of both. I might get banned from the channel, I plan to use L or J bolts for my project, lol. I don't have a hammer drill so an L or J bolt would be the easiest and most cost effective in my case.

[@5400bowen]

You do foundations in concrete and can't afford a $235 rotary hammer? I agree in general but that is weird.

[@highlanderthegreat]

why not just make the L longer, it looks about the bend is only like half inch the it goes up like 6 to 8 inches....why not make the L shape like 2 or 3 inches long.... or make the anchor a T shape that is 2 to 3 inches each side or even say a + that is 2 to 3 inches north , south, east, west and the same length.....just asking.....

[@DYI]

J bolts are the way to go with new construction as they prevent drilling concrete and dust exposure.

[@jeffreyyoung4104]

Actually, I would rather have the bolts welded into the concrete reinforcement, instead of J or L bolts in soft concrete.

[@946towguy2]

J bolts which are wired to and hook on a horizontal rebar before the pour do not pull out. Rebar threading is also a good option which is used where I live in California.

[@Jumanjini]

Before engineers, there were carpenters. We still have carpenters but now we also have engineers that tell carpenters what they can and can't do even though they've never done the work and have no idea what work is.

[@HotNoob]

j bolts dont have to be installed that accurately... maybe if ur walls are 2x4s lol. you just line up your sill plate next to the bolts and use a marking jig or balance it on top of the bolts and hit it with a hammer. one big problem with post install ones that you missed, is corrosion. the only thing keeping those things in is thin pieces of metal. where as that j bolt can corrode a lot and still be strong. also with the wedge ones, they often don't work as intented. more often than not, the wedge wont expand and they will seem tight, but will be completely loose.

[@zhugeliang777]

maybe the screw anchor is better than the wedge anchors? less prone to rust-like deterioration? I think I'm gonna add extra screw anchors on the 4 corners and L anchors for most (also the corners).

[@addictiveaussie]

As others have pointed out. Wet set anchor bolts should be directly tied to the horizontal rebar thus distributing the load.

[@JohnAnderson-kt4mb]

Hey man just found your channel, really interesting and very simple to understand. I’m sure you come across cantilevers in buildings, can you make a video showing a cantilever home, where part of a bedroom is cantilevered, and how one would attach a deck to the cantilever.. I see people shockingly attach their deck ledger board to the outside of the cantilever with no load bearing beam/post.. certain failure will follow with a heavy snow load or multiple people on the section of the deck attached to Cantilever.. definitely needs to be addressed!

[@Lumber_Jack]

Great video -- hope you do more content in the future.

[@AJTarnas]

you switched from calling out the L anchors for not having enough uplift resistence, to alternatives that are easier to install (good) but also don't have definitively better uplift resistence. what anchoring methods resist net uplift best?

[@diysolutionsandhowtos5108]

Wiggly bolts

[@seaneustace9838]

Is this a joke? Never in my life seen a J Bolt fail. Everything you showed, seems to my mind to be inferior to the J bolt. I have use similar screws to tie down frames walls to basement floors which were non-structural in order to refinish the basement as living space. I would be very leery of taking this video as real, without backing it up with other information and a lot of it. Almost 100% of houses are tied down to the foundations with J bolts and you never see them flying off during a storm. I am wondering whether this video is a joke or a marketing ploy to promote the things that he is promoting..

[@zhugeliang777]

I think he's just saying in a rather provocative manner, that the J and the L have less hold-down power.

[@trashcompactorYT]

J installed during the pouring process have been proven in numbers to be more effective at preventing homes from sliding off foundations in tornadoes and hurricanes. Anchors that are drilled in post-pour will never be able to hold onto concrete that well.

[@zhugeliang777]

dang now we are getting opposite statements whaaat?!

[@XX-ol7lf]

Good info. I used on my deck but will not use for my cabin. Thank you sir.

[@Raphael_NYC]

Very nicely done. Thank you. raphael nyc

[@dane9175]

A screw anchor will never end up in the middle of a stud . You also don't have to lift the walls up and over the anchors. Stand the wall up square it and pin it to the foundation. Post install anchors are great😎

[@canonicaltom]

If you actually design a house first instead of freestyling it, nothing will end up anywhere except where it's supposed to.

[@marcinjakubowski6010]

​@@canonicaltom Great in theory. Nobody designs a house beyond the 'technical concept' level, though, so every builder wings it. Full design means LOD 500, which I have not heard of in contractor-grade residential housing. Re 'If you actually design a house first instead of freestyling it, nothing will end up anywhere except where it's supposed to.' - sounds like you are not a builder LOL, because in practice nothing matches the original design unless you're doing digital fabrication.

[@canonicaltom]

@@marcinjakubowski6010 In my area, you can't get a building permit without having a complete architectural drawing specifying where every stud, joist, fastener, bolt, shingle, feedthrough, or electrical outlet will be. And the inspectors will void your permit if you don't follow the drawing.

[@stevelopez372]

⁠@@canonicaltom Well I don’t know about Voiding your permit. But you will spend lots of time talking to your Architect and Engineer. Anything they put their signature on, like a fix will cost you plenty.

[@joeybox0rox649]

​@canonicaltom Agreed. Never has a "J or L" bolt ever failed on my job sites (almost 30 years in the industry.) If an "L" bolt is in the way of a stud, either cut around it or cut it off and replace it with a Redhead. Now, how many Redheads have ever failed me? TOO MANY TO COUNT.

[@thecaribbean8615]

Great video. Thank you!

[@danielr8920]

I was trying to find out how the wedge anchor worked, thanks for taking the time to explain their system. :)

[@shanerorko8076]

I agree somewhat, but for a house the L bolts should have plenty of hold down. Also smooth shank vs threaded? Here in Australia its all post installed anchors except for stuff that is big. What I mean by big is say a radio tower you might use cast in bolts but weld them to the cage in some cases, but a tower is also side loaded which helps the L bolt. As you said chem set anchors are very strong but they basically have a 75mpa resin in a 20 to 35mpa base material so you're still limited by the base material being concrete at say 20mpa. This means cast in bolts are the strongest, not L bolts but rather threaded rod. What I do is if I have a square steel plate I need to anchor if I can set it in before the pour just make a plate in the steel and one out to align the bolts and now one bolt is achored with a plate and 4 other bolts.

[@esexavo]

Lol like an engineer would approve this, we build homes according to the certifi d plans not how we feel like it

[@loboxx337]

Structural engineer...

[@byugrad1024]

None of these things resist uplift unless there is an accompanying strap that ties into preferably a large post built into the wall which is also rigidly strapped to the roof or beam which rafters or trusses are then strapped to. I'm not even a structural engineer and I know that much. Uplift forces are resisted by hurricane straps which distribute the enormous overturning forces across dozens of nails in shear. They are usually, if installed correctly, integrated with rebar to distribute the forces throughout the foundation. These anchors are primarily meant to counteract sheer forces and keep the house in place on the foundation. Not to prevent it from lifting up, because honestly, if you don't have hurricane straps, the only thing keeping your house bolted to the floor is the 1.5 inches of 4 or 6 o.c. spaced nails along the bottom of your outer shear, whether OSB, ply, or that nifty zip stuff. Come on, man. Even I know this stuff.

[@lindawells9328]

I love your KZbin channel. You are a very smart person . Miss . Linda 💯

[@jasonlevin]

Planning on doing a little 4-500 ft2 bar in my back yard. I’m not in construction but automatically assumed I would have to use anchored bolts. Why does drilling into the concrete not compromise the integrity? Generally wondering, nice vid

[@waynerichardson930]

Your alternatives have a major flaw in this aspect: You are presuming the installer is using the correct drill bit and the installer is properly blowing the debris out of the hole.

[@clutteredchicagogarage2720]

I think this comment is underrated. I have seen installers do all sorts of careless stuff. Good construction designs do not require perfect installation because installation by contractors building 99% of buildings will have at least small flaws. I was watching a video on KZbin the other day in which a building engineer showed the construction of a masonry wall with a drainage air gap and insulation between block and brick. In one portion of the video, you could see that the cavity was full of mortar that would not allow proper drainage.

[@seanm3226]

No products, of any type, would ever be used if we assumed installation was always done incorrectly.

[@zhugeliang777]

On the Japanese video, they also use the L bolt, and also as a way to hold parts of the sill down temporarily while straightening the rest of that sill to the chalk line. So, it's not useless to precision nerds. Maybe I could add a few screw or wedge anchors on the 4 corners of the sills after if it pleases you.

[@snookluvr2913]

Hooray for you! Retired structural engineer. Never used a J bolt in my career but then again, I designed industrial structures. Anchor bolts were an issue from the start of my career until I retired 6 years ago. Mostly used threaded rod with nut on the end. You know the ACI has done a lot of research on this issue with pullout cone analysis, etc. J bolts are horrible. Kudos to you for highlighting this issue!!

[@markdaniel8740]

Even the weakest anchor bolt will hold the plate to the floor long after the nails pull out of the stud.

[@snookluvr2913]

In residential construction, check out uplift straps in hurricane zones or high seismic zones for example. True, nails play a large part in the diaphragm action of the structure but I see significant strapping here in FL where the uplift is transferred to the plate then the anchor bolts. Uplift is real and sure J bolts may suffice in some situations but IMO they are the least desirable type to use.

[@coasttal123]

I use the j-bolts as only to resist sliding on the foundation. I use QuickTie cables for my uplift counter measure. I am given the data to design with. You are so right about having only the 90 degree leg as the part with the load on it.

[@MurDocInc]

J anchors can also be set before concrete by suspending them in piece of lumber across the concrete form. Little extra work, but more confidence they`ll be set right.

[@hassleoffa]

I've spent most of my career in the heavy industrial sector of structures. Almost exclusively plated rods. But for lighter work, post pore chemical anchors have never failed me. I love that they prevent water and chemical intrusion into the drilled hole. Great vid. Keep it up.

[@loboxx337]

Would like to see your hypothesis in a lab setting using all the requirements for a complete evaluation of all anchors vs the one you're pushing.

[@Walkercolt1]

You can install HILTI powder activated fasteners that are 12 TIMES STRONGER than "J or L" bolts. I used them on my 1925 Model T garage expansion to fit a modern pick-up on top of 7500 PSI concrete stem wall. We have tornados and 115 MPH straight winds in thunderstorms har' en Tussa, Orka-Homer, so I BUILT FOR THEM! My house was built 100 years ago in April this year. It's held-up to wind, tornados, 6.7 earthquakes, 17 inches of rain in ONE HOUR and more. Do it RIGHT or do it AGAIN!!! The builders used a dozen iron cut nails between each stud into the concrete stem wall foundation thru the "shoe" or footing.

[@vonhalberstadt3590]

I like this guy and he keeps explanations clear.

[@bennoah1673]

Common sense would dictate installing "J" bolts before pouring concrete, and using the proper installation and of length bolt would be best. Install with j under rebar. When you talk about failure are you talking about design limits? Tensile strength? Proper spacing using the correct number of bolts for design loads.

[@samuelbaker6821]

...........I feel as though ignorance is a pandemic . I do Residencial framing for a living out in ut in the Rocky Mountains. 5/8" "J" bolts hooked on the top course of rebar is not just the standard of the industry but is the Gold Standard. It is also the easiest of systems to install for a framer cuz wouldn't you know it, but drilling 1 1/2" of wood in your sill plate to accommodate a 5/8" "J" bolt is much faster then drilling 8" of concreat to accommodate a 5/8" Titan screw. It's not that any of these systems are bad, they are the best system depending on your application/circumstances. Try working in the fiend with these products for a hot minute. It will give you the actual context for applying your engineering degree.

[@CountJeffula]

1:29 your example shows it into the weakest part of precast concrete beam. That’s disingenuous as compared to most j bolt installations. Sub-Contractors can hardly read plans and don’t plan properly when they frame. It’s not just their fault. The contractors and builders chose the cheapest labor for so long there are no craftsman. I fundamentally disagree with the more expensive post pour options. People should just learn to be better. Just because a more expensive option exists doesn’t mean it’s actually better or faster.

[@stevelopez372]

Great info. Thanks for the vid, I Believe the Epoxy anchors are still required to have a Deputy inspector overseeing their install which will add to the cost. But both are great anchoring systems.

[@pcatful]

So for some reason we were required to put a particular depth of j-bolts. So it doesn't do anything? It seems like post applied bolts like Titen are superior and mean the bolts are more properly placed in the end. Actually engineers in our area, typically specify J-bolts. Just haven't changed their details.

[@pukeschannel6882]

Are you kidding? You should use exactly what the architect and/or engineer specifies. And your test??? Are you kidding about that also? For testing...You should use a deep enough anchor so the anchor itself breaks...NOT the concrete.. THen you know what it will really hold. We have put 1" threaded rod down 36 inches into a footing with 4 inch plate washers at the bottom... What is that good for????30 tons of uplift? Sure,..I'm sure I'm just a fluke and haven't read any plans (that I am involved with) where they do not specify J bolts...or fairly long allthreads with washers. If you look up on the simpson website,..you can see EXACTLY how much a 1/2 inch J bold embedded 9 inches (underneath the top rebar) will hold. Nice click bait,..that's all I can say. I have never seen a post installed anchor allowed on a bearing wall.. And it will never happen on any job I am on. Post installed anchors happen,..and they are usually allthread embedded into concrete using structural epoxy,..and they have roughly the same strength as cast in place j bolt anchors...if they are the same length.

[@falcon02012]

You'll need between 2500 to 3,000 pounds of force to pull out a 1/2-inch diameter J-bolt embedded 6 inches in 4000 psi concrete. With around 30 of these bolts in a typical 2000 square foot house, that means you'll need 90,000 pounds of force or wind at 150 MPH.

[@ladalou]

make the L longer ....it will work wayy better....perhaps i should say wider.. More "__" ratio to the" | " so its CAPITAL "L" shape literally think about how much more down force it can have in the concrete with more Parallel Force ....IJS

[@SomeDumUsrName]

Subscribed! I’m sure gonna look through your stuff. At the moment I’m trying to find out which Simpson post-framing anchor bolt is needed to be equivalent to or better for hold down than a 1/2” J bolt with a 7” embedment.

[@zhugeliang777]

lol do they even sell those that long??!

[@SomeDumUsrName]

@@zhugeliang777 Well 10" bolts are available that I know of. I'm almost sure you can get longer too. Turns out, a Titan bolt 1/2" thick with a 4 1/2" embedment is equivalent to the 1/2" J bolt with a 7" embedment.

[@vtbakerbuilder]

I'm interested in that research also. Where did you find it? Would you share? Thanks.

[@user-wm5ul2gl4w]

You showed one pull-out test, do you have the data that shows the best anchor that resists uplift?

[@KevinDurette]

What do the tests show if you throw a washer over the J before installing it? (This is assuming you can get the concrete around it without a big air gap.)

[@chrispalffy3511]

Im a stonemason, Ive been fixing brackets and anchors to concrete blocks and concrete slabs for 30 years. Boundry bottom plate anchors blow out more slabs than j bolts, that's a fact, countering your claim J bolts are tricky to line up. Yes j bolts can be tricky to line up, but you need to prove which method provides more uplift resistance, and therefore safer for my family. I would challenge anyone to provide testing results that show a thread on a concrete screw works better under tension than a bolt set into a slab. You say there's a move away from the bolt embedded method to screw bolts and I agree. But if 3/4 bolts aren't sufficient, then for another dollar more " use a bigger bolt" and build a safer home. The only advantage is it's easier and requires no thought to drill and place your threaded rod and screw bolts flat against your studs, saving time, but it's not stronger, it's weaker. I have pulled out plenty out pins and screws but you have to grind off or snap off embedded bolts.

[@procrastinator41]

On the jobs I see (SoCAL, US) anchors are carefully measured and attached to forms, often using special clamps and spacers to be inspected, AHEAD of concrete

[@terryg652]

Shame on you! So much misrepresentation in this video! You falsified the 'J/L Bolt Flaw' video. In your video @1:24 that is NOT a J/L bolt failing!!! You stole that video from someone else! And it's a wedge anchor failing! Here is the original video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnPIZaKhjrSpr6M You used that video to imply it was a J/L failure. If you're using someone else's video you should be crediting them. Not passing it off as your (false) test.

[@kevins2033]

J and L bolts are FAR superior to screw, epoxy and expansion anchors. The logic in this video is some of the dumbest I’ve ever heard. But typical of Engineers with zero building experience. It should be common sense that cast in place anchors are stronger and easier (with proper prep), but over complication is commonplace among engineers these days. Also, I’ve been in the industry 30 years and I’ve never once come to the consensus that installing J or L bolts or drilling out sills is “hard”. It’s actually the very opposite.. please, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.. perfect example here.

[@michaelswope2863]

As a contractor of 20 years specializing in excavation and foundation retrofitting, I STRONGLY disagree. Do not let your contractor use post installed anchors unless a mistake was made. ONLY when a mistake is made should a post installed anchor be used. I don’t doubt that calculations on paper show post installed anchors being similarly as strong as cast in place, but those calculations certainly don’t take into consideration all of the factors, like horizontal rebar being embedded above J bolts, weakening of concrete with micro cracks from drilling holes, greater moisture intrusions, removal of galvanized material from post installed anchors, etc.

[@chuckmiller5763]

Those 2 post vehicle lifts come with 5/8 inch wedge anchors and need 4 inches minimum concrete thickness, recommended 6 inch thick. I used 12 inch x 3/4 j bolts thinking that had to be better than 5/8 wedge anchors. I sawcut the concrete out, dug down 3 feet, tied rebar, tied the j bolts under the rebar, vibrated the concrete. I was a little nervous about 5/8 wedge anchors holding up 10,000 pound vehicle lift.

[@morgan79347]

I recently installed some thermax panels in my basement when doing the rim joist I found every L bolt had no washer or nut we get some strong winds in the northeast. They do now..

[@jackriley5974]

65 years in the trades = This subject, and this presentation, is in my case amusing. Not to dwell on that, let me point out the obvious. Contractors are aware of the choices. DIYers don't often get involved with projects that require them. Engineers wet themselves when you get technical, hence my amusement. See below!

[@BretBerger]

Friend, great production value but you dialed your background music volume up to foreground music level.

[@minglim-pollard1167]

Sir, I have been building for 60 years, dyna bolts regulrly fail, scew in anchors great for hold down or temporary formwork fix to adjoining concrete, rag bolts have stood the test of time in low stress engineered situations. This sounds like more white board commission for DEI academics have now got hold of the construction industry. Start using Ramset concrete insert bolts where you can run a continuous line of deformed rebar through them that integrates with the cocrete and rebar design. Heavens help the construction industry with this level of wooly thinking, talk about engineering loadings what we have going on here are mutational loadings . Welcome to the harsh roadmap of reality! KPP nz

[@dogpaw775]

all the bolts shown do not meet code quoted as they 'must extend 7" into concrete or grouted cell of concrete masonry wall' , they are all obviously too short and 7" seems ludicrously onerous in the majority of domestic timber framing scenarios.

[@integr8er66]

I have used many AJs and other anchor bolts and I would always use cast in place first given the option.

[@philipcaldwell3187]

You should do a review of the findings from “The Big Dig” incident, very educational.

[@AB-fq4mr]

I'm having a home built and I don't have any of this. I have some extra long metal pieces sticking out that are bent at 90-degree angle and that's it. This is for a 3-story 4,000 sq ft home so Lord help me. Hopefully I start seeing some bolts somewhere once the framing starts.

[@Nas_Atlas]

Like pouring concrete isn't hard enough you have to find time to install J bolts straight up and down at the right depth and spacing. And if you don't do it right half the time they wind up under a stud.

[@mattywho8485]

Those expansion anchors are absolute JUNK ! I just built a garage where the concrete guys forgot a couple of the J-bolts and installed 4 of those expansion bolts where needed. Well, along comes me, the builder to install the sill and EVERY one of those expansion bolts pulled out of the concrete when I tightened them. You know what didn't pull out of the concrete ? you guessed it... the J-bolts. I will not be getting rid of J-bolts anytime soon !

[@ytrew9717]

Ok, but which wet anchor do you recommend (when you can't drill, eg. not enough space) ?

[@michaelmcgee8011]

Nice video but i have to disagree with parts. I've used j bolts and "stab bolts" , S bolts ( you didn't show any of these) are also very common. You say they are difficult to use, I have to disagree, if you can read a tape measure you should not have any difficulty drilling holes in your plate for HD bolts. As for epoxy bolt applications, they are great but you have to be careful that the installer does a good job cleaning the hole or the bolt will not hold. Bottom line, stab bolts are faster (there are plastic holders that are designed to nail to the forms to hold them in the exact place they need to be when pouring our foundation) and less expensive than epoxy, but epoxy is perfect for the HD bolts you missed when laying out your forms. Now about using Red Heads for your HDs ? I live in earth quake country and i've never seen them used for HD where code requires a HD.

[@niveknospmoht8743]

No way I would use wedge anchors on an exterior wall. 5/8'' galvanized J bolts. Interior is ok for the wedges and the 'post installed'. If a slab is poured correctly 3500 psi min. and has a proper rebar mat, the J bolt is not going to pull out.

[@P_RO_]

There's multiple problems involved here and most of it boils down to costs. Builders will always select the minimum accepted standard to save money and this extends to the use of low-skilled and unskilled labor. My building career started with industrial form carpentry where everything was checked before and during every concrete pour to ensure proper placement of everything in the concrete. Nothing out-of-spec was allowed to pass, and most of the design work was above minimum standards to be sure load specs were met fully. When I got into residential work and saw the anchor bolts used I knew immediately they weren't good, nor was anything about the whole job. And some of the blame belongs to Engineers who are also seeking easier cheaper way to meet testing standards instead of seeking improvements of performance which goes beyond testing standards and aims instead for something better in all respects. When it comes to longevity and resistance to damage of a structure overkill is called for to do the job best. For instance the pull-out strength of expanding anchors as will be used isn't taking into account that the anchor itself puts extra stress on the concrete leading to edge-breakout. Nor does it take into account poorly done concrete work. Lab testing needs to correlate to real-life usage and conditions instead of everything being ideal which is only achievable in testing labs. Civil Engineering is a race to the bottom, with recognition and career advancement being more based on doing something cheaper/ faster/ easier instead of being done better. A lifetime of experience in building has taught me that the best results are always achieved when you make things 'idiot-proof' because if it can be done wrong it will be done wrong just to make the job easier. Let me supply the personnel used to assemble the parts of the lab tests and you'll quickly see how fast engineering fails. I'll send you only experienced people too- scary isn't it? Something also not considered here is anchor corrosion over time. If the thinner threaded areas of screw-in anchors corrode strength is lost rapidly. The same goes for the sleeves of expanding anchors. Epoxied anchors are too dependent on every hole being prepared properly which just doesn't happen even when it's easy. Prep failure was the cause of the ceiling collapse in Boston's "big dig" tunnel and you'd think overhead holes would be easy to clean out properly with gravity helping clear the dust. But "L" and "J" bolts retain more of their strength in an equal corrosion situation, losing little over time and the time-to-failure being far longer. As someone who has seen building materials make the transition from traditional to engineered products I have become acutely aware of the poor designs of many of these 'better' materials in real-world use, as well as embracing certain advancements over traditional materials because they are so much better in every way even if they are poorly installed. Given all this I'll choose to stay with the long-proven "L" an "J" bolts when properly sized and properly installed until something truly better comes along because of their real-world performance. Just avoid building to the minimums and embrace better when it's possible.

[@matsfreedom]

As a builder who has used j-bolts for 50 years, I can attest to their effectiveness. Over-engineering is a problem. Please stop.

[@mpybals8002]

The fact you are pushing quick bolts and giving the j-bolt the cold shoulder is leading people astray. A j-bolt where the hook is under the rebar I’d take the Pepsi challenge to say that is definitely the best uplift device versus the screw in quick bolts.

[@wukong1066]

Imagine your contractor, chewing tobacco like "no sir, we not doin none of that J bolt bullshit, we're gluing the bolts right in da hole. Yup, gluin your house to the ground, buddy! Fuk a tarnaydah!" And the whole time a structural engineer with a clip board is fervently nodding in approval. You'd think you're being pranked