Why an Amscope Microscope is AWESOME for watch repair!

[@MyRetroWatches]

Hi, firstly I did not expect to hear my name being said in this video! So thanks, clearly you watch my trials and tribulations in this wonderful hobby. It seems to me you put up a very good argument for scope work. You answered one of the main concerns I make against solely working under one and that is lack of peripheral vision to see a part fly and have an idea where it went. The plastic sheet on the front is a brilliant and typical hobbyist solution to a problem! For me I spent many years just using my cheap visor with a 2.5x lens and did a vast majority of my work that way. I got used to it and to this day even in my most recent citizen video I was using it. Loupes I still use but as a glasses wearer unless it’s a clip on one I find them annoying to keep changing from glasses to loupe all the time. Bergeon do a good clip on solution but they will rob you for it so I have so far resisted purchasing. One other thing I heard that some pros have done in the past is pin a white sheet to the edge of the bench and then put it on your lap when working . There is a name for this but I can’t remember what it is. Basically it can catch those flying parts and be found. Personally I’ve found that pegwood is my best friend and to only remove it from a part when I’m sure the time is right. Failing that a giant magnet and a grid sweep patten on my hands and knees. Enjoyed your video and good luck with your watchmaking sir!

[@sma1968]

Thank you Michael! Indeed, I watch your videos with great anticipation. Any and every way to relocate those flyaway parts is a good way. I too have done those grid patterns on my floor, like some sort of CSI TV show... :) See you on The FB. :)

[@neilw2O]

Thanks Stefan. I am using a similar stereo microscope doing really small surface mount electronic assembly. It took me 10-12 hours for my brain to keep my head still while moving my hands soldering, etc. I am working with 0.1mm wide PCB tracks that I have CNC machined. Keeping still was was the biggest learning curve. Old Olympus disecting microscope with a new LED ring lamp.

[@Index-o1234]

Because you do electronic assembly I would like to ask, which microscope do you reccomend for assembly work? Is stefans adequete or would you suggest something else which would make working on delicate electronic components comfortable?

[@frankderosa77]

I bought mine after watching "Watch Repair Tutorials". I've been wearing a optivisor for the past thirty years as a jeweler. The secret to fantastic pieces is "More Magnification". I watch all the "watch videos" at the end of the day because they're calming. This will be new as stand off has always been as issue; especially when setting gems.

[@daviddailey4959]

They are calming aren’t they! I find myself snoozing sometimes and have to rewind. It is pretty cool.

[@shipmate3577]

Two things you should consider to improve your experience using a loop: 1.) keep both eyes open; it will be difficult at first but will reduce that seasick feeling 2.) drill two holes in your loop at 12 and 6 o'clock to prevent it from fogging up. These two things are taught in Swiss watchmaking schools. Question for you: how do you minimize dust in your room? Do you do any special tricks?

[@sma1968]

Dust: I have an air cleaner that runs for three hours every morning. I have found this to help dramatically - along with allergies. :) Loupe technique - Yes keeping both eyes open is good practice - much like target shooting. drilled holes - another good idea. I have wondered why that isn't the default with loupes. That said - I wouldn't want to have to trade the microscope for loupes for most work. :)

[@soundmindtv2911]

I just got an amscope trinocular with the camera and 0.5x barlow, and wow!! I can't say enough good about it. The image looking through the scope is beautifully clear, and it's very comfortable to work under. Can't believe I struggled with the expense. It's the tool that unlocks all the others.

[@barissara]

Great review. Just got an Amscope SM-4TP Black myself. And entered into another dimension. Highly recommended.

[@EricWadsworth]

Great setup! I use a trinocular scope with a camera like this too. My scope was around $900 from ebay, got a Chinese kind, looks just like this. Also a hobby watchmaker. One tip for preventing pieces from flying: Anything under tension (yoke springs, etc), I work with inside of a ziploc baggie, with a slit cut for my tweezers. If it launches, it stays in the bag. Saved me so much time! Also, I've found that I can set my glasses on the scope, right in front of the camera. I have a PC next to my scope, which runs a program that interfaces with the USB scope, and which I can use to capture photos a videos. When disassembling a watch, each step I take a picture by reaching over and tapping a key on the keyboard.

[@sma1968]

great tip!

[@sonnymoorehouse1941]

You Should do more Videos. You do a great job in front of the camera and I felt that you really conveyed the information well.

[@sma1968]

Thank you so much, Sonny! I'm working on getting some more made. :) I'll see you back on the FB groups! :)

[@MexicoBeachFloridaLiving]

I ran across this video today-about 1 year after posting-and I have a couple comments: I have used an AMScope for about 2 years and after a big learning curve it is all I use during watch repair. Just yesterday, I tried to use my old visor/loupe etc and was astounded that I actually used such low power to do watch work-no way I could ever go back. The early AMScope days were filled with frustrations, as Mike mentioned below the periphery of work was a problem, but I caught on quickly and as time past I began to develop the needed skills to work under a scope. It actually drastically improved my handling of parts and greatly reduced lost/fly-away parts. Rarely do I lose a part as I once did. As far as using the scope for recording work, I think it would be a problem because your hands would probably be more in the way than say a regular camera sitting at an angle off to the side. Overall, I could not possibly be happier with my AMScope.

[@julioguzman1231]

😢🎉😢

[@sma1968]

I have found all my work to be very improved also. I'd never go back to just a loupe. I record all my work and actually don't have the problem of hands in the way, by and large. I also don't point down the lens exactly downward at 90 degrees... more of a 85 degree or so angle... that slight pitch makes a lot of difference for the camera and for work in general.

[@watchrefurbish]

Hey Stefan - my wife and i watched your award winning film "Strad Style" last night and loved it! Wonderful storytelling. Kudos sir.

[@sma1968]

Thank you so much!!! I'm so happy that you liked it. Thank you! And please, tell your friends. :)

[@da___man]

Thanks for the video. I am just getting into this hobby as well but I have a unique perspective on microscopes. I am an ophthalmologist. We work with microscopes all the time. In the office setting we use a slit lamp for evaluation of your eyes. A slit lamp is just a modified microscope which allows you to control the angle of illumination and the size and shape of the beam of light. I use slit lamps made by Haag Streit with Zeiss being the other premium one. As far as intraocular surgery such as cataract surgery, these are done under even more expensive surgical microscopes with some of the best made by Leica. Currently I am looking for a stereo microscope I can use at home. I am looking around to see what solutions others are using. I know I want a decent working distance/depth of field and good illumination so a 0.5 Barlow lens and a LED ring seem ideal. I would also like a good recording setup because I am so new I need video to figure out how to reassemble things (or hope to find a KZbin video of someone working on that particular movement if I'm lucky.) Sorry for such a long winded reply but I agree that working under a microscope, if you are serious about this hobby, is a game changer.

[@sma1968]

Thank you! I think the biggest differences between these scopes and what you are accustomed to is that the magnification doesn't need (not should it be) to be as high. My previous experience with microscopes was with 1000x type magnification, so these lower magnifications threw me a bit. haha. :) Right tool for the right job Have fun!

[@needlessmustard]

I started thinking about microscopes when I saw the workbenches on the Chronoglide channel, this ticks it over; if I invest more into this hobby a microscope is certainly on the list!

[@sma1968]

You won't regret it. At all.

[@sonnymoorehouse1941]

I finally took the plunge !!!! got myself a microscope !!!! Thanks to your advice !!!! Its truly a game changer !!!

[@roversgonemad]

I have been considering a long focal length scope for many years now. I am also a glasses wearer and loupes can be difficult. You have just solidified my decision. Once my new room is finished a scope just like this will be procured. As far as launching things, there’s a set lever spring from an ST36 that went to the ether two days ago. My current space is multi use and there’s enough clutter that spring will never be seen again! Your flier solution is excellent. When I worked at the kitchen table, I used foam board as a barrier.

[@ianchristoph7222]

Great review. Thank you so much

[@sma1968]

Thanks!!!

[@johnmc3562]

That's really helpful, thanks Stefan

[@tommusikauswahl1066]

Alex from the Channel watch Repair Tutorials and The Watchsmith also recommends this Microscopes, Chronoglide, a Dutch Professional also uses them on all Workbenches....im new to the Hobby and already in the market for one of these too. I just need to figure out, if i need a trifocal or a stereo one of these. Thank you for this very informative Video.

[@bikerder]

Thanks for a very useful video Stefan. It's great to get a list of all the parts to complete a setup like yours. I went ahead and ordered the parts. All fitted together with no problems. Saved me a lot of time buying bits by trial and error. Very happy with the scope. Thanks again.

[@sma1968]

Happy that it worked out for you. :) It's a great way to work on watches, for sure.

[@GentlemensWatchServices]

Saved me so much time searching for a camera setup. Thanks. Also agree on everything you said about microscope verses loop work.

[@Aikidobear129]

You sir have a very refreshing attitude- I enjoyed watching this video and thank you for your input and recommendations for a new way to look at things- your spring stories amused me as I have found springs that took off into the sky in my shoe- how they get where they land God only knows.

[@sma1968]

Thanks! Yeah, those little pieces have a remarkable way of ending up places you'd never look. lol.

[@misteryman5109]

Hi. Thank you for your super advice. I just bought the same microscope today. I'm trying to copy your exact setup.

[@sma1968]

Excellent. Glad it can help. Yeah, follow the links to create the perfect descent into insanity - I mean, happiness in watch repair! Lol.

[@sonnymoorehouse1941]

Im Blown away !!!! This is a fantastic video !!!! you have answered just about every question I had about a stereo microscope. Im sold on it now !!!!!! Thank you !!!!!!

[@PolInHM]

Thank you for a great video. Clear, complete, well-organized job. Appreciate all the thoughts and information!

[@richardclarke5597]

Hi stefan, Decided to finally get the camera for my amscope Thanks for doing all the research made it a pleasure to order, feeling confident and relieved after looking at so many choices, fun talking with you on the watch repair forums a while back Keep Posting always a Stoke! for us All You Make GReaT Videos :) Thanks Again Rick :)

[@douglasskinner]

Thanks for sharing! For years now I have used a loop. Then I took a class where I had to work using a microscope. It was, no pun intended, and eye-opener! Now I'm looking to for microscope(s) for my benchwork and for my lathe.

[@mosfet500]

Thanks for the video Stefan. I have a scope on my watchmaking lathe and another one on my workbench. I bought used American Optical scopes from eBay quite reasonably and their optics are probably better than the Amscope even nicer than my Nikon scope. I'm also a machinist so I made all my arms and extensions. Like you I'm sold on scopes for watchmaking. I'm not a pro either but I can make a balance staff.

[@jowettcars]

Hi Stephan Your video was certainly not boring in fact I found it of great value and enlightening. I too am into watchmaking and have purchased a similar scope. Have had a few issues with camera mounting. You might be interested to know that another Amscope guy on hear recommended a .35 C mount adapter which is far better than the items supplied by Amscope. Regards Chris (UK)

[@sma1968]

Hi. glad you found the video useful. And yes - the .35 is better. It causes some vignetting, but you do get a less cropped image. Still not perfect though...

[@mattobrien3346]

Thanks for your insight Stefan. 'Am I enjoying this hobby' is something I often ask myself :) I too purchased a microscope - not as posh as yours but I completely agree - Gamechanger! Also love all your anti-ping barriers.

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Fantastic, I am trying to get into the hobby myself , and I like the microscope idea. I will look into one soon . Thanks for your informative video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@nicholasmazzola6659]

Great video Stefan, thank you for providing the links for your set up. It helped me more than you know.

[@bmw128racer]

A stereoscope/binocular microscope is definitely the way to go. It gives you much more vertical space to operate and the adjustable magnification is added versatility.

[@jtcustomknives]

I just scored a new amscope 3.5-90 with the wide flat base off eBay for $225 with free shipping lol. Figured it’s worth it even if I buy a separate boom stand later.

[@sma1968]

Sounds like a great deal! Did you double check that the working distance was good?

[@jtcustomknives]

@@sma1968 yeah it’s 8”

[@tmmkk1]

Hi I purchased the exact same one as you two months ago and I love it. I restore watches and working with this is a game changer. The one issue I have that I,m confused about is when I zoom in or out it does not stay in focus. I then have to adjust the height with the large knob to bring back to focus. Do think I missed some step in my set up. Thanks

[@sma1968]

Try zooming out all the way and focus. Then zoom in all the way. Don't touch the big knob. Adjust focus of the eyepieces until in focus. Then try zooming out again and see if you're still in focus.

[@DeadFlowersForDinner]

I'm intrigued... what parts have you had fly so far that you have barriers everywhere and do they work?

[@mikeellis4345]

Extremely useful video for a watchmaker hobbyist like me! Cheers!

[@ptchan5]

You had me at "I disassembled and serviced 3 watches with the microscope". Thank you.

[@sma1968]

It' about 50+ at this point. :) and I remain happy as a clam.

[@valerievalerie9769]

thank you for the video! I'm a jeweler and have been using a Russian made microscope for the past 7 years, but as I've been getting more into engraving, I've noticed that it has very poor depth of field and I basically have to adjust the height of the microscope whenever I move the piece that I'm working on. so now I'm looking for an alternative that would be less expensive than Meiji. could you comment on the depth of field of the AmScope?

[@sma1968]

Hi. Depth of Field is very narrow.My guess is that it's not much different than most microscope, including yours. With micro photography that i've done where I've wanted to increase the depth of field, I needed to blast a lot of light on the subject and close down the iris of the lens. Since these lens don't have an iris, I don't believe there's any way to increase that depth. On the plus side, focusing is very easy because just the knob on the zoom lens has to be turned to focus, not adjust the entire microscope...

[@walther9161]

Awesome info Sir! Thank you

[@sma1968]

Thank you! If you end up buying any of the parts and pieces, feel free to use the links I provided. And if you do - a BIG thank you. :)

[@rjp7164]

Thanks for the video. Did you ever try out a 0.3 Barlow lens?

[@RalphParker-ik6vd]

Pls disregard my previous message.....but only the part about info on the Barlow lens. Just found it on this page. Apologies and pls keep making these videos. They're a Godsend for newbies like me.

[@Index-o1234]

Because you do assembly work I would like to ask, which microscope do you reccomend for assembly of electronics? Is the model you have adequete or would you suggest something else which would make working on delicate electronic components comfortable?

[@sma1968]

This is a perfect microscope for electronics work. The working space or great for getting a soldering iron under the lens.

[@northwestrepair]

Is there a way to fix massive field of view difference thats coming from the camera VS what you see with your eyes ? I know i need some kind of adapter but which one ? Which adapter will make field of view same for eyes and HDMI output ?

[@sma1968]

The .35 adapter that I now link to instead of what I had in the video is a lot better. It's still not perfect, but MUCH better.

[@RalphParker-ik6vd]

I've recently been bitten big time by this watch repair hobby BUG! Been a watch collector for years but am determined to take the next step. Just found this video of yours and it's a huge help. Want to take the plunge for a quality Microscope....loupes are killing me. Your setup seems perfect to me. Have been pricing out your exact rig on Amazon but not smart enough to figure out the correct Barlow lens. Can't seem to find it using just ".5 Barlow lens". Any chance of you sharing some more specific info on it? would be much appreciated..

[@sma1968]

Indeed... clicking the links that I have in the description will take you to the exact parts (at the best prices) on amazon... (and... it will help me with no additional cost to you). :) :) we both win.

[@DonkeyKing]

What's the difference with the SM-3TP and the SM-4TP?

[@sma1968]

Single arm boom vs double arm boom. Double arm should give you more stability. Whether this actually matters, I don’t know.

[@jayzx636]

I don't know how long the sale is going to last. But, I just purchased same scope he has in this video. Directly from amscope's website. For a black Friday sale it's 25% off. I got mine for $511.34 usd shipped. You won't see the discount until it is in your cart. Hope, this helps someone else out.

[@alekspolevoi9019]

It's the same with me, I can't work with a magnifying glass, for this you need to have a lot of experience, and get used to working with it, you can work with a microscope when repairs are not going on in large numbers, experienced watchmakers also use a microscope, but only in cases where you really can’t do without it.

[@tommusikauswahl1066]

Hi Stefan. One think, thats not clrar in the Video: So you record the Video on the Card and use the HDMI just as a Controll Monitor that you are focused on the right spot? Or do you connect to the Laptop via HDMI for recording? The Manual for the Camera says, it cannot connect to PC or Laptops via HDMI Port, just to plain Monitors. I am confused :)

[@hppsimulation9532]

Hi Stefan, I've watched this video several times and I was so convinced I bought the entire setup exactly like yours. So thank you so much for the detailed info. I am starting my watch hobby journey and was looking for something better than all of the typical solutions you see out there. Yes, it isn't a cheap setup but buy once cry once is actually true. I have had my system for a couple weeks now and love it. One issue I have and thought I'd get your opinion on.....Because of the intensity/brightness of the LED ring light, the subsequent video the camera is recording and displaying is usually washed out in brightness. If the watch is slightly tilted it comes out much better but if laid flat on the bench, it's so washed out in brightness the playback is very hard to use. I have looked at the settings on the camera to no avail. Am I missing something? Did you have the same issue by chance, and what did you do to have a better balanced camera output? Thanks again!!!

[@sma1968]

Hi, Glad you're enjoying it. Yeah, the scope is pretty amazing. So two thoughts: I don't aim it exactly straight down at the movement, I'd say I'm hitting it at maybe a 2 or 3 degree angle. This allows me to see my work better - rather than having my hands obscure things. Perhaps that would help. The other thing (i'm guessing you already tried) - have you turned the light level down? It does have a knob for that. (just in case you missed that)

[@sma1968]

My camera in the camera exposure settings, I turned it down to -2/3. That certaintly helped.

[@hppsimulation9532]

@@sma1968 Thanks Stefan, I feel a little stupid because I didn't think about tilting the head. It works great and you're right in that having the mic at an angle also helps your vision of what you are doing. This setup is awesome and I'm extremely happy with it. Now let's see some more watch videos from you.

[@danflayler9948]

Thank you for the video. I am starting this as a hobby. I actually hooked up camera with monitor you reccomended. It turns out I did need to order c cs adaptor as I could not get in focus without. I lifted camera off threads and held with hand on top of threads and it focused just fine. So waiting for adaptor. The question I have with light ring is that the light puts a bright ring at watch which is distracting. Did you find a way to make the light circle on object larger? Thanks for your time

[@hawkforce3109]

Awesome set up you have there!

[@mariofonseca9072]

Hi Stefan!! Tks for the video! What is the Maximum Magnification you get with this setup? on the Amazon says 45x, Is that correct? Tks again.

[@papabeepbeep2727]

Excellent explanation. I really enjoyed your video.

[@KrawnKam]

Would there be any downside to paying the extra $50 and getting the 7x-90x instead?

[@sma1968]

There’s no downside, you’re just getting an extra Barlow lens (a 2.0 “doubler”) You can always get it later so it’s not a know or never” purchase. I also have that lens, but it’s too much magnification for most watch work. However, for some dial restoration work, where extreme magnification might be useful, it’s great.

[@Oldtimerider]

Question, did you need to use extension tubes with the.35 camera adapter ? The Amazon reviews mention that. Thanks so much for doing all the research, I have everything on order.

[@chris9413]

Hi Stefan, thank you for your very detailed video about this microscope! I am currently looking into buying this microscope. But I am uncertain about the desk height and ergonomics. May I ask how tall is your desk? Any reference helps :) Furthermore, I noticed that your microscope is slightly tilted towards you. Does that effect your perspective when working on a watch? Does it help with ergonomics?

[@sma1968]

desk height of the desk that the microscope sits on is 29.5 inches. Pretty standard desk height. Yes, I put the scope at a slight tilt so that I can see the watch a a slight angle. I adjust this depending on what I'm doing - but most of the time, I keep it with a slight tilt. I do it so that I'm not looking straight down at my hands as I work.

[@wmueller0614]

@stefan thanks for posting this review and for posting the links. Very helpful. In the video, you mention that you used a coupon to reduce the cost of the microscope. Where did you find the coupon?

[@vesselingenadiev2526]

Hi Stefan, I have bought the same camera like your but in my package there was no CD or something with the needed software to start the camera working with my Windows. Can you please share what software have you installed on your PC to have the camera connected to the computer?

[@sma1968]

I'm using a mac and the HDMi so this is not first hand information: I believe the camera should be seen by computer as a usb camera device without need for software. However, there is also additional software available at this link... download.hayear.com/content/?270.html Also, I have read (I cannot confirm) that the sd chip has to be removed when using USB.)

[@horstb29]

Great video thank you for sharing your experience

[@tmmkk1]

Hi great video. Was wondering what's the height of the table you have the scope on. thanks

[@sma1968]

It's 29.5 inches high

[@yesterdayschild1418]

With your setup what's the distance from your eye piece to the table top, also the distance from the bottom of the lens to your work piece?

[@sma1968]

From tabletop to eye pieces is 16.5 inches and from work piece to bottom of the ring light (which sits just a bit below the lens is about 6.5 inches)

[@yesterdayschild1418]

@@sma1968 Brilliant, thank you that's most useful. Watching the video again I noticed you sometimes looked through the scope with your glasses on and one time you took them off, what's your preferred method? I suppose my question is without wearing your glasses how do you see when placing parts in a tray, do you have to keep putting them back on?

[@sma1968]

I don't use my glasses at all when working. I'm near sighted so I can see fairly well up close (to about seven inches from my eyes...) If that's of any help... I just need to look away from the scope and not get very close to the tray to pick up or put down or pick up parts in the tray, then it's right back to the eyepieces. @@yesterdayschild1418

[@yesterdayschild1418]

@@sma1968 Thanks, Stefan. I now have a scope on order so we'll see how things go with my high bench and eyesight. 🙂

[@sma1968]

I believe you will love it! (except that you will probably want to get a lower bench.@@yesterdayschild1418

[@148DMC]

New subscriber thank you for all the information I’m new to this hobby and I was also getting stressed looking thru the eyepiece. I’m looking forward to getting this setup. Keep up the great videos

[@watchrefurbish]

Hi Stefan - Thank you so much for this detailed video and the links to the items. This is perfect. Do you record your video feed of your watch disassembly, etc. to offline storage for future review? To clarify, i noticed that you have the camera connected to the monitor so i was wondering how you record.

[@sma1968]

Hi Steve, Yep. I definitely do. The camera itself can record to a chip, so I do a chip dump after every watch. I also grab stills from it so that I can, if I need to, refer to it for reassembly.

[@watchrefurbish]

@@sma1968 Hi Stefan - Thank you! I have the exact setup from your video queued up in my Amazon shopping cart. I watch another KZbin channel called Chronoglide from the Netherlands (professional watchmakers) and they work exclusively with microscopes. Again, i really appreciate the research and review you did.

[@williamcoolidge9884]

Is a camera required? When I'm working with a loupe there's no recording of what I'm doing. I'm not a KZbinr so I'm not going to show my work to someone else. Am I missing something?

[@sma1968]

Hi, a camera is not required. It's just a nice thing to have so that you can review/record your work... in case you need to see how something goes back together, for instance. :)

[@danflayler9948]

Stefan, thanks for the video. I am struggling getting camera to record or take photos via laptop, monitor and or sd card. Ugh! I tried to download software with no success. Is there an insight on getting camera to operate? Thanks

[@sma1968]

Hi, Argh - sorry to hear you're having problems. I'm especially surprised to hear any issues with an SD card. Is it not recognizing the card? What size is the card? I do think the camera has a limitation on how large the card can be. I am using a 16GB class 10 panasonic card with no issues. However, I did notice that a 128GB card didn't read.

[@danflayler9948]

I have 128 sd card. Will see how other card works when I receive. I will order your card that you are using as well. Anxious to start working on my new hobby but not starting until I can accurately video tape my moves.

[@staffordcrombie566]

What chair are you using

[@sma1968]

haha. An Ergohuman ME7ERG. Amazing Chair

[@palemale2501]

So about $600 for the scope and another $300 for camera, adaptor & display if needed ? Great kit.

[@dirkinkelley]

Hello Stefan -- Enjoyed your video presentation and found it very useful. Hopefully I can duplicate your workshop. I noticed the scope head is set at an angle. Do you prefer this angled viewpoint instead of traditionally straight down or did you do this to lower the eyepiece view point in order not to use a higher stool and be moved further away from work point? If you would please, tell me what is the working distance from the front ( closest to you ) of the ring light to the desktop -- what is the angle the scope head is set at? Does this working distance allow you enough space? The working distance of this scope can be close to 8 inches--yours seems closer to desktop. Do you still have your scope set up this way? Have you changed the set up over the past year? Thank You for the concise explanations, work tips and sharing your expertise!

[@sma1968]

Hi, glad you found this useful. The links will take you to everything I used (including the updated camera mount). I do most of my work at a slight angle - just so that I can see more of the area I'm working on - that way my hands aren't obscuring anything. I'd say the angle is maybe 3 degrees but that will vary on what I'm doing; there's no specific angle to which I'm wed. For things like hairspring manipulation, I tend to angle straight down straight down - one can really see symmetrical lines perfectly that way. I've even angled the scope at 30 or more degree angles to peer under a balance cock as it was running (though the chair has to really be lowered for that). The working distance doesn't really change a whole lot with the angle of the scope when it's between my typical 3'ish degree angle and 0 degrees; it's never been an issue for any work (I don't ever come close to bumping into the light) There's about a 5.3" working distance from the front edge of the light to the surface when angled. My screwdrivers are about 3.5" in length; so there's a comfortable two inches of clear area. Tweezers are a non issue, because they are angled in from the side for pretty much any work (not straight down) and eve so, my longest tweezer is 4.9". The only things you can't easily do under the scope is work that involves a staking set or jewel press. I haven't change my setup in any significant way since the video... It's really been working well.

[@dirkinkelley]

@@sma1968 Thank You Stefan for that info-- What intrigued me about your set up was the scope angle. I was stuck in a mindset of using the scope upright and did not think about the angle option. I was using the scope while standing in order to reach the eyepieces ( have high bench). This was uncomfortable for longer periods -- was considering a low bench or high telescoping stool! Set the scope angle at a comfortable eye level that allows me to concentrate and work with ease -- this set up works great with the current bench and stool. Competed a movement rebuild/repair today without fatigue! My workspace is slowly evolving -- these tips have been a big plus! Much Appreciated, Dirkin

[@IamGPSGuy]

In your UPDATE, you wrote about .35 C mount adapter. Can you please include the Amazon link for it? Thanks

[@sma1968]

Hi, Yes, the link is updated. Thanks! Adapter for camera to microscope amzn.to/3GbbFFR

[@leowatkins3718]

Thanks for your video. I have a stereo scope but struggling with hight above the watch. The screw drivers only just clear the lens. I will look into the barlow lens.

[@sma1968]

Barlow lens should take care of that issue.

[@leowatkins3718]

@@sma1968 I bought a 0.5x and it did the job,but about 2" to high (could always raise my seat) and not expensive. So I ordered a slightly different size 0.3x which was higher still! should have ordered a 0.7x, went the wrong way. But at least I now sit with a nice straight back.

[@sma1968]

@@leowatkins3718 Posture is everything. haha. You can also angle the scope slightly - that lowers it as well as gives you more of typical "loupe" view. The only downside is that the focus is narrow.

[@jetsonIFY]

Very well done video. A bit off topic but how have you handled main spring winding. I agree with pay once cry once but a set from Bergeron is hard to wrap my head around. What have you done??? jeff in OK.

[@sma1968]

Hi Jeff, Thanks for compliment on video. Mainsprings - I actually got an old winder and some barrels on Ebay for 140 bucks. It was missing a few barrels, so I bought them singly as needed. That's what i'd advise... I'd look mainly for a winder and then buy the barrels as you need them. Yes, there's a bit of delay in work, but it's a less painful way of building a winder collection than buying a full Bergeon off the bat. and some of the really tiny ones, I haven't used at all (and may never). The other thing I'm also finding recently is that I've been replacing mainsprings (which is considered good practice) when doing a major overhaul/service on the watch. And to be honest, you don't need a winder if you're putting a new mainspring in. (unless it unwinds on you before you can push it in.).

[@williambrooks3436]

Could you tell me what cleaning solution you use in your ultrasonic cleaning machine?

[@sma1968]

I fill the ultrasonic with water and then I put the parts in small glass containers. In the containers, I use L&R 111 cleaning solution. After the first clean, I rinse with L&R rinsing. If the parts are really dirty, before the ultrasonic, I clean with Ronsonal Lighter fluid and pegwood. I also restored a watch recently that was really rusted - I used good-old WD-40 to loosen it up. Then I cleaned with the above mentioned.

[@BruceWSims]

Okay....sorry to be "Johnny Raincloud" but I have been hearing about how microscopes have made peoples' experiences in Watchmaking so much better. I have the AmScope SE400-Z Stereo Microscope and it has been a royal pain to use. Certainly, it is nothing like the double-boom instrument in the video, but there must be someone I can talk to to find out what enhancements I might be able to get to make my experience better. Thoughts?

[@sma1968]

Hi, so I checked out the model you're using and it seems as though the working distance is good - so my guess is that's not an issue. It has a light (which seems as though it would work well... However, I do notice that it has essentially two different focal lengths - 10x and 20x. Is that your issue? even 10x is quite a lot of magnification for watch work - so I'm wondering if there is a barlow lens that could be used on this scope? It's really nice to be able to get down to 3.5x magnification. I will also say that the zoom functionality of the SM series scopes is really invaluable for watch work... it allows you too zoom to the exact power that you need, without the need of switching eye pieces. Would be curious to know if this is your issue. If not, please do elaborate on your woes.

[@BruceWSims]

@Stefan Avalos Actually, Stefan, you touched on half the problem. The other issue is illumination. Between the two, I could probably come up with a work-around for the lighting, but with my current optics, I am Waaay too much up close and the field-of-vision is about 20% of a pillar plate. I have ordered 5x eye-pieces which might be of some help, but the real issue is that what was good for its original purpose of inspecting for minutia, has made it over-powered for more general work. Now, in fairness, I did reach-out to AMSCOPE, and they recommended another, much more expense scope approximating your own set-up and if I was a watch pro that would make a lot of sense. However, I'm a guy on a vintge-pocket-watch mission so this won't make me my first million :-). Thoughts?

[@sma1968]

@@BruceWSims In lieu of getting the scope that Amscope (and I) recommend, I think the 5x eyepieces will make a world of difference. Definitely having that option will be a positive.

[@ThomasAdam22]

Thanks for this, Stefan. I thought this was a very informative video indeed. It would be handy if you had some links to the various parts (perhaps on Amazon) so it was a little clearer the exact parts you're referring to in your video.

[@sma1968]

Thanks. You're right. I'll add links in the description as soon as I can.

[@williambrooks3436]

I agree - great if you could provide specific spec’s and links

[@sma1968]

I've added links.

[@stevstro4498]

HI Stefan, could you please tell me how much recording time you have with your camera? I, too, am a beginning hobbyist & will definitely want the ability to record & review my work, especially on more complicated movements such as chronographs..

[@sma1968]

It depends on the size of the chip and what format you shoot. But yea - plenty of recording time... like more than an hour.

[@WristwatchMedic1953]

A great video. Lots of great information.

[@jembo1959]

Hi Stefan I loved the video, have an Amscope with WF10X eye pieces and added a 0.5X WD165 Barlo lens I bought. But I still only have about 2cm of working area and cant get my screwdrivers into the watch area. Could you advise what I am doing wrong. I also bought a new bottom plate and bar to hold the microscope head lost at this stage. The microscope is binocular. Thanks Jimmy.

[@sma1968]

hi Jimmy, thanks for compliment on video! Do you know which model scope you have? Is it a zoom lens or a fixed lens ?

[@jembo1959]

@@sma1968 The Microscope is a cheap one around €200 the lens is fixed. I hope you can help I have 25 pocket watches I bought from last October as I am new to this hobby. Hoping I can start on them through the winter months as I have lots to do in the garden at the moment, and as I said its a hobby.

[@sma1968]

@@jembo1959 My guess, without knowing the actual model number, is that the limited working distance is a characteristic of your scope. This is. It uncommon with fixed lens scopes. You may be able to change the distance slightly by changing the lens focus though it will also come at the cost of magnification.

[@jembo1959]

@@sma1968 I found out the Am Scope is KONUS #5420

[@enigmaticmf]

Personally, I think every single household should include a microscope as a basic appliance (even more so as people get older). There are SO many other uses than just electronics (for me), or watch repair. They make things like splinters a piece of cake. Even just a few days a go I had stabbed myself with a piece of 0.3mm lead attempting to close a Pentel Orenz mechanical pencil. I had thought it just left a graphite mark at first - because it wasn't bleeding. So I look under the microscope, and sure enough, there was indeed a little piece of lead sticking out.. It was still really tricky getting it out without breaking it to pieces though, since graphite is actually a dry lubricant. I was eventually able to slowly pull it out in one piece, thanks to the microscope, and even that tiny 0.3mm hole gushed. There was no way that would have been possible without the use of my stereo microscope.

[@roadshowautosports]

Hi, Stefan, thank you for sharing your experience! This video is very genuine and bears your personal opinion on a setup that manny overlook due to cost. Ad you’ve explained, it’s a good $1,000 investment that works a million better. Sharing it you assure to the ones who done it and enlightens those who haven’t yet, and that’s great! Si many times, as a professional, one can doubt themselves and their own perception of where investment ends and waste starts, and when talking about expensive equipment, it’s harder to find those who Oren it and are willing to share their opinion and experiences ad you’ve done it here! Thank you!

[@watchrefurbish]

Hi Stefan - I purchased the same setup you have and i am thrilled with it. I have one issue i haven't resolved yet. The focus on the camera, as viewed on the HDMI monitor, does not match the focus looking through the microscope. I almost can't get the camera far enough away from the subject. Have you experienced this or have any suggestions? Thanks, Steve.

[@sma1968]

Hi Steve, 'm going to assume that you've played as much with the focus ring on the camera adapter as possible and that's not working. so, if you back the camera out of the tube, does it get into focus properly? If so... (I'm going to assume you don't have it) a C-CS adapter ring. Because the camera is actually CS mount, not C mount. Happily, it's cheap. Here is link to it... amzn.to/3vmXhX8

[@watchrefurbish]

@@sma1968 You nailed it! I am in your debt sir. That is the one item i didn't buy. Thank you so much!

[@michaelcoulton7039]

Hello Stefan. Thanks for the great video. I followed the links and purchased most of the equipment with the exception of using the articulating arm instead of the "Dual Arm Boom Stand", however when I look at the camera image on my laptop (via the USB cable) its blurry. I can attempt to focus the camera via the adapter ring but that doesn't help much. I bought a "0.35X Microscope Adapter Mount Lens" (the same one as in the Amazon link) and the camera (Hayear) screws into the adapter with the secured to the top of the Microscope. Am I missing some type of adapter ring to go between the microscope and the o.35x? Thanks in advance for your help.

[@michaelcoulton7039]

As a footnote, I didn't purchase the monitor and perhaps the HDMI output is the way to go instead of using the SUB to laptop solution.

[@michaelcoulton7039]

I found a monitor and connected it to the HDMI port. The picture was still blurry until I raised the microscope up to a working height of 10 inches which now made focusing the microscope difficult.

[@sma1968]

@@michaelcoulton7039 Hi, when the camera adapter is focused properly, both it and the microscope should have the same focal point. Is that happening now? If not, as an experiment, pull the camera adapter ring up out of the scope tube by about 1/4 inch or less... does it now go into focus? if so, you need the c/cs mount ring. I needed that when I was using the .5 adapter, but not the .35 adapter - so I don't know if that's the exact issue. The working distance should be about 6 inches.

[@michaelcoulton7039]

@@sma1968 Hello. I found if the camera is unscrewed and almost out of thread then the picture is clear. I'm not sure is I can pull up the scope tube; it seems fairly tight. Thank's for the suggestions. At least I'm on the right track.

[@sma1968]

@@michaelcoulton7039 In that case... this should be the answer... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01531I8IG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@galaxygalaxy4389]

Hello Stefan, thank for your detailed video. One question - what is the working distance of this microscope? the spec says 100mm while in your video it looks more than 100mm..thx again!

[@sma1968]

Hi, With the Barlow lens and the LED ring light attached, the working distance is about 132mm. (very comfortable space for tweezers and screwdrivers. :) )

[@galaxygalaxy4389]

@@sma1968 thx :)

[@danflayler9948]

Most difficult thing I have ever done trying to download rar file and trying to have computer recognize camera. Still working with Chinese company to get working. It's not a plug and play with camera install. Far from it. Do you have video on how to install camera?

[@sma1968]

Hi, I don't have an install video but suggest that the SD card is the easiest/best way to go with recording images. As pondered in my other reply - what size card were you trying? I'm using a 16GB card with no issues. 128 GB didn't work. What OS are you using? osx or windows?

[@danflayler9948]

16 gb card worked. Camera manufacturer should have included. I can now video tape record on 10 inch monitor. My windows 11 system still not recognized camera. That's my next project.

[@sma1968]

@@danflayler9948 Glad to hear it worked out. I think the issue is that it's technically not an "SD" card... it's TF Card. I suppose the format structure is different??? Anyway, i don't even bother with any other form of recording. It works really well. Have fun and let me know how it goes!

[@madmechsgarage1727]

great review :) I am thinking to get one too (hobbiest here) - do you think that this model would be suitable : 3.5X-90X Black Simul-Focal Trinocular Stereo Zoom Microscope with Double Arm Boom Stand SM-4TPZ-B? it has a little longer distance of work view and it is autofocus on camera too. Thanks

[@madmechsgarage1727]

forget the above, decided to get same model as yours SN4ntp. Can you post a link for the .35C mount adapter for the camera, Thanks

[@sma1968]

@@madmechsgarage1727 Here are links to all the parts and pieces I purchased, including the Adapter... Here are links to all various parts I ordered for this microscope setup. Microscope amzn.to/3wwW7Jt (this can also be purchased from Amscope. Check both sites because prices vary) Barlow Lens amzn.to/38Mqnqu LED light amzn.to/3sOuklB Camera amzn.to/3GmjWXT Adapter for camera to microscope. (.35) amzn.to/3GbbFFR Video Monitor amzn.to/3G55sLK HDMI Cable amzn.to/3MOuYHq L shaped Desk amzn.to/3PxEsZF

[@madmechsgarage1727]

@@sma1968 Thanks :)

[@IamGPSGuy]

Nice video!. I am in the same situation as you were before you bought the scope. I am new to the hobby and seeing things clearly is my main frustration. I have been thinking to buy some magnifying tool that can take this BIG frustration away. I have seen the Andostar (at My Retro Watches) and this one (Amscope). Now I am confused which one to go for .... Andostar is less expensive but I am wondering why you did not go for Andostar. I am sure their must a very good reason but I am wondering what that would be (because there is a huge price difference). I would appreciate if you could let me know so that I can make an informed decision and don't repent afterwards. Thanks

[@sma1968]

Hi, Thanks for compliment and glad you're finding the video useful. I just checked the link and it's still the same microscope and stand. Might just look different from that angle. The Andostar is great for examination of stuff - but the real limitation is that it's not a three dimensional (stereoscopic) image - and not 'quite' real time. That makes doing actual work with it a lot more tricky. I know it may not sound like quite the big deal that it is - but it is. :) Being able to work while viewing everything stereoscopically (and in absolute real time) is the real difference and (as I repeatedly say) game changer of all this. Basically, looking through the microscope makes it almost feel like you're working on a car engine. LOL. (though you're reminded that you're not when you drop a part)

[@IamGPSGuy]

@@sma1968 If there is a lag, then it is not good (BTW I heard one of the reviewer saying there is no lag). The reason I am tryin to shy away from it is in Canada this scope is C$1241+161(tax)=1402 which become expensive for a beginner. Not only this, I will have to buy some additional stuff (camera, lens, light, etc). Scope alone is not very expensive which is at C$486 but when combined with stand, it becomes expensive. I was wondering if I can buy it alone and then get the stand from some other source which maybe cheaper.

[@sma1968]

@@IamGPSGuy You could buy just the head and then try to find a stand... However, (because I did try all sorts of price variations), I couldn't find a way to beat the price I got. This is a link to just the microscope head... amscope.com/collections/stereo-microscopes-microscope-heads/products/sm745tp HDMI doesn't have any (noticeable) lag, which is why I prefer it to USB. You can also plug it into any hdmi monitor for viewing.

[@IamGPSGuy]

@@sma1968 I realize that I am taking lots of your time and you have been really prompt in your response. So many thanks for that. One final question: I noticed that it comes with two kinds of sands A) Dual Arm Boom stand (the one that you got) and the other B) Single Arm boom stands which about US$ 100 cheaper. What is the advantage of buying A over B? (I ask this because you went for B).

[@sma1968]

@@IamGPSGuy No worries on questions. It's a big purchase. The main difference (besides maybe a bit more stability) is that you can slide the double boom arm in and out without changing the angle of the scope (angle of the lens facing down in relation to the watch). To be honest, if you're trying to save money any which way possible - this IS one place you could do it and not kick yourself later. :) I wanted the option of easily sliding the microscope out of the way - but I haven't really done that much. lol I use it 98 percent of the time.

[@killiansred40]

i just subbed to your channel and liked, how long have you been into your hobby before you started to upgrade years or months..

[@sma1968]

Been at it for just three years. I started upgrading after about a year... :)

[@normanrehme3836]

I don’t understand the concept of adding the wide angle lens. Why not buy a scope with less power. Maybe there isn’t one. Also without Barlo what is the width of your field of view. At 7x can you see an entire plate of a pocket watch? At 45x is your field of view 2mm? How small of parts can be seen? Thanks!

[@sma1968]

Yeah, basically, the scope's default optics in this category are all this power - and then adapters change the ranges. Yes, it's overkill without a Barlow lens. With the Barlow lens on, at widest you can see 60.5mm, edge to edge, completely zoomed in 8mm. If you need to get in even closer (which I've only needed to do a couple times for some really delicate cleaning dial, you can take the Barlow lens off.

[@Taras-Nabad]

Love it.

[@williambrooks3436]

Where do you purchase your watch parts?

[@sma1968]

Depends. If I can buy parts or movements on ebay I do that. For new parts, Ofrei, CousinsUK are my go to. For materials, usually Esslinger.

[@williambrooks3436]

@@sma1968 thanks for the Beta!

[@williambrooks3436]

Could you please supply the exact spec’s for your microscope, lens, stand, etc. I like to obtain the same exact set-up

[@sma1968]

@@williambrooks3436 Microscope amzn.to/3wwW7Jt (this can also be purchased from Amscope. Check both sites because prices vary) Barlow Lens amzn.to/38Mqnqu LED light amzn.to/3sOuklB Camera amzn.to/3GmjWXT Adapter for camera to microscope amzn.to/3GbbFFR Video Monitor amzn.to/3G55sLK HDMI Cable amzn.to/3MOuYHq L shaped Desk amzn.to/3PxEsZF

[@williambrooks3436]

@@sma1968 Thanks Again!

[@-timetowatch1110]

THANKS !

[@vesselingenadiev2526]

Hi, you said this is a part-focal microscope but on the amscope site it says it is simul-focal, is that one and the same thing?

[@sma1968]

Hi. Those two descriptions actually are about different things. Yes, it is a simulfocus scope - what that means is that the camera functions along with the eyepieces at the same time. Scopes that don’t have that feature actually have to shut off one of the eyepieces for the camera to work (the image is redirected to the camera from the eyepiece- which is quite inconvenient) Par-focal means the image stays in focus no matter what your magnification power is (with the lens staying the same distance from the subject). Many scopes, with fixed lens require you to move the lens further or closer to the subject (and then refocus) to change the magnification power.

[@vesselingenadiev2526]

@@sma1968 Hi, Stefan, great thanks for the details answer, I see you are very well aware of the microscopes, which is very useful for all the people that follow your videos. With the risk to be a bit annoying, a would like to ask two more things: - first is about the feature par-focal - I got the idea, but my question is how to figure out of a microscope has this feature or not. For example even on the AmScope web site this is not mentioned for this model (amscope.com/products/sm-4ntp). Is it this line ("The zoom lenses can be locked to maintain a consistent magnification") that means that the microscope has par-focal feature? - second question is about the Barlow lenses. I see that very often these Barlow lenses are sold in a pair with 0.5x and 2x (seldom one can also see 0.7x). My question is what is the difference between 0.5x and 2x and which Barlow lens gives you larger working distance (in your video I see that with 0.5x you are having something like 20 cm working space, which is quite OK, but what will be the difference if you use 2x lens). Thanks in advance for your answer and keep on with the videos - they are really useful!

[@sma1968]

Hi, I don't know exactly how one would know if the zoom is par focal or not based on specs (unless they specifically mention it). I think most of the zoom models will be - And all the SM series Amscope scopes are essentially the same scope (with just different attachments or lens kits) - so they will all be par focal. The "fixed power" microscopes are the ones that you want to stay away from for watches. (you have to move the lens closer and further away from the subject and refocus to change zoom). Barlow lens. The .5 will halve your image power (and give you more distance from the subject) and the 2x doubles the image power (and you need to get closer). So when you see the microscope zoom range say 3.5x-90x - that's with two lens changes... the base microscope does 7x-45x. You put on the .5 Barlow to get 3.5-22. You change to the 2x Barlow to get 14x-90x With watch making you don't need the 90 x power. So, I would save money and just get the .5 Barlow. Even 45x is much more than is really needed - and that comes default with the microscope by just taking off the Barlow; and so far, I haven't taken the .5 Barlow off for any watch work.

[@vesselingenadiev2526]

@@sma1968 Many thanks again, now it is clear to me how it works and what to look for. Great explanation, by the way!

[@vesselingenadiev2526]

Maybe a stupid questio, but yet, for the par-focal functionality does the microscope use power supply? I mean, how does this autofocus functionality work - I mean the functionality to keep the object in focus even if you move it under the lenses while working.

[@sonnymoorehouse1941]

Its Truly Money well spent !!!!

[@weerobot]

Interesting...

[@Slimm2240]

Can you see bacteria moving around in real time with this

[@sma1968]

No, for that you need magnification of 1000x or so. Which would be way too much for working on a watch. :)

[@killiansred40]

Buy some watches make some videos with your new scope

[@sma1968]

I know, right?! I actually do have a couple vids I need to edit and organize... gonna work on a valjoux 7733 chrono, maybe today! :)

[@zegarmistrz2675]

🙂🙂👍👍

[@panjandrum.conundrum]

(loupe)