Why Choose Nylon 12?

Why choose a Nylon 12 filament over a Nylon 6 filament? The answer isn't always that obvious as the Nylon 6 filament is often more affordable and also stronger?
PolyMide™ PA12-CF is a carbon fiber reinforced nylon filament with excellent mechanical properties. The benefit of PA12 compared to PA6 is moisture stability. All nylon filaments will change properties from their dry state (which is mandatory for printing) to their wet state.
Its all about moisture intake or how hygroscopic the filament is. The longer polymer chain of Nylon 12 has fewer places for a water molecule to bond to meaning that the results and mechanical properties are less effected by moisture.
This also means you can print and store spools of Nylon 12 for much longer without the worry of moisture spoiling your filament.
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[@twinturbostang]

Would love to try some, if it wasn't so darn expensive.

[@xlite4999]

PA12-CF I would consider to be a industrial grade material. It is not supposed to be used for everyday prints which would explain the price tag. There are other PA12-CF brands out there like EasePA12-CF & eSUN. Per gram it is cheaper.

[@ottostadtgatineau]

Great explanation, thank you

[@techtalk7018]

Very useful knowledge. You also need an enclosed printer that will get hot enough and a hotbed Love polymaker! I buy a ton on this stuff. If you don't need steel quality parts I'd use petg pro or pla pro but also asa is an amazing quality product with abs qualities.

[@olibarahosasa1137]

Wonderful explanation.

[@santiagoblandon3022]

Awesome video!

[@jackthecat6225]

PolyLite PC seems to be the goldilocks filament for me and it's not expensive. Great video.

[@adamdabrowski931]

wow! thanks for that!

[@tek_soup]

my humidity is 17, 40 on a normal days, do i got to worry about drying stuff? i did buy a de-humidifier, but not hooked it up yet. thanks!

[@MyTechFun]

Thank you for this information, very useful content. Maybe it would be good to mention that CF needs hardened nozzle for printing. What is that coating method at 0:47? Just painting or something else?

[@Polymaker]

Yes hardened nozzle required for GF & CF filaments. The coating method is a 2k epoxy paint to seal the surface and block any moisture intake. This will lock the print to its dry state properties and also create a smooth surface for moulding.

[@1stepfwrd169]

@@Polymaker I know this comment is old but it’s the first I’ve seen of someone mentioning that you could do this and I’m really wondering what type of epoxy paint did you guys use?

[@HeikosGarage]

Do you guys have any information about PA612-cf . I am struggling to print it. I am using the suggested temp and retraction settings but prints are still not turning out great.

[@Divenity]

Question. Why do you guys not sell plain PA12? I'm only seeing fiber reinforced stuff on your website. Is there something about PA12 that makes it print poorly without the added carbon fiber?

[@quasimongo410]

Yes. It warps like hell without it

[@Vez3D]

can you aneal or cure your PA6CF after printing so it wont absorb moisture? thanks !!

[@martyrmindset]

You can anneal after printing to remove the internal stress and reduce moisture absobtion. Recommended at 80 C for 6 hours. Coat in 2k epoxy to lock in dry state properties

[@whoisamp620]

does that rule out using it for building a hydrofoil? its going to be in saltwater for extended periods of time, it will be wrapped in carbon fiber, but does it continue to lose strength after saturation?

[@Polymaker]

Once the part is wrapped in carbon fiber it will be locked in its current state as no more moisture can enter or escape from the printed part as it will be shielded by the epoxy. This will be determind on exactly when you wrap your part after printing and how it is stored before this time. If you check the moisture curves graph @ 1:09 it shows you how long you have after printing before the moisture can be absorbed into the part. For PA6-CF you will need to wrap your part within 3 days to keep moisture content under 1%, for PA12-CF you have 20 days. If you want max tensile strength and stiffness, you can put the printed part inside a resealable bag with some desiccants to buy yourself some more time. Our testing method is based of an RHT 70% @ 23°C. Even after 20 days the PA12-CF won't change much in mechanical properties where the PA6-CF has a more dramatic shift, see bar chart @ 0:42 . Remember though, that this is just tensile strength, what you lose in stiffness you will gain in toughness. The carbon fiber and epoxy will provide the vast majority of the tensile strength to the hydrofoil so a little extra flex on the inside might not be such a bad thing.

[@neilfpv]

Is PA12-CF also very stiff? I'm planning to use it for the arms on my fpv drone.

[@quasimongo410]

PA6 creeps, so unfortunately it is useless for mechanical parts unless they are encapsulated and no constant force is applied to it. But you can anneal pa6 to make it more stiff in its wet state but pa6 is annoying to print. I guess that's why they came out with a PA612 blend, so better buy that one right away

[@damionchrist]

Is it ok to print PA6-CF right out of the package?

[@Polymaker]

Yes it should be ok as long as it is transferred to a dry box right after opening it.

[@TheTangoAlfa1]

Any feedback on PA612-CF? Just got a spool, yet to try it.

[@andyh8239]

Your graph (1:11) shows PA12 absorbing mositure at a higher rate than the rest after 50 days. After 200 days where do things stabilize?

[@coffeewithbuzz297]

They arrive dry? Lol not even close. I had to dry mine for 36 hours

[@montanadreaming5722]

Why not just spreay paint the nylon with waterproof paint?😅

[@chase6428]

Taulman is better

[@chase6428]

And far cheaper