Why Did LEGENDARY Guitarists Do This?

[@dylanadamsguitar]

To those who commented about the Joe B method of feeding the strings through old string ball-ends when top wrapping… thanks for the tip! Tried it on a couple guitars and it’s working great so far

[@thomasblevins1662]

This reminds me of the story about the girl’s mother who always cut the end off of a ham before she baked it. When she asked her mother why she did it, the mother replied that that was the way her mother always did it. When the little girl asked her grandmother why she always cut the end off of the ham, the grandmother replied so it would fit in the pan. Seems some people imitate what others do without knowing why.

[@charlesfick729]

I heard no difference in sustain even with headphones and all that is subject to how hard you hit the strings. No one I know lets a guitar ring out that long anyway. All I know is my Les Paul plays easy, I bend a lot. My Tokai Les Paul, though set up exactly the same, bends a bit easier, I’m stunned over that one. I played my American deluxe Telecaster since early 2000 and always thought the strings bent easily on that. Years ago due to arthritis, I went to 8’s and there was only a tiny difference in sound but the bendability was great. I’ve been using the Paul (Gibson) for quite a while doing southern rock and blues. Just tonight prior to watching this video, I broke out the Tele and to my surprise, it was harder to bend in the upper scale than the Les Paul So, it’s tighter than my Les Paul. I learned years ago, that the lower the strings to the neck, the easier the strings bend. Doing southern rock I don’t mind a slight buzz on the low E because it’s amplified, Old Superlead, and you don’t hear it. Tonight I noticed the Tele neck had a little bit of a bow, just a bit, so I straightened it out, and the strings got a C hair easier to bend. I noticed it more because I’ve had some time off and my finger tips I from practicing now, got a little sore so I really felt the difference in bending. That’s my observations but, I’m going to try the over the top method. Now on my Paul’s, I always had the tailpiece raised halfway up because I did honestly feel a slight difference in bending.

[@jasonmitchell9967]

I dont know about differences in tone or bendability or whatever, I just do it cuz it looks cool.

[@MarshallCommaDave]

This reason is as good as any lmao.

[@cliffbungalow9373]

I‘m a legend in my own mind and I‘m a top wrapper from way back A little tip is to first feed the string through a ball end so the sharp part of the end wrap isn‘t right on the top of the tail piece

[@221b-l3t]

Hmm good idea, I just top wrap the wound strings to avoid this. I started top wrapping because of snapping wound stribgs at the saddle. Gave the saddle slot a filing and sanding and I top wrap the bottom three strings and it seems to work well as a compromise. In theory you could load them normally then wrap below the tailpiece and over it, should be enough extra length to keep the sharp ends of ball end strings away from your hand.

[@rodrich1644]

The best comparison on this subject that I've seen.

[@MikeGuerr]

I’ve never tried top-wrapping, but now I’m tempted to give it a try. Thanks for the informative video!

[@lumberlikwidator8863]

Nice, sensible presentation. At first I thought Oh no, not another top-wrapping video! but I’m glad I watched. I’m not a big string-breaker, but I used to top-wrap because the tone was thicker, especially on the unwound strings and the action felt softer and easier to play. In Irving Sloane’s book Steel String Guitar Construction there is a chapter featuring James D’Aquisto and his archtop jazz guitars. Sloane relates how Jimmy D’A was able to control the action and tone of his guitars even after they were built by tweaking the length and the height of his ebony tailpieces. Shortening the tailpiece creates more string length behind the bridge and makes the strings feel softer because the extra length allows the strings to be more flexible. Some people say that the string tension is a constant, which may be scientifically accurate, but guitars with shorter tailpieces are definitely easier to play. By the same token, D’Aquisto told Mr. Sloane that raising the tailpiece would soften volume and enrich tone. This is also true because the shallower break angle over the bridge exerts less downward pressure on the bridge and the top of the guitar, so notes are fatter but die out more quickly. Some people can hear the difference and others can’t, but I think Jimmy D’A knew a thing or two about tone. Top-wrapping the strings on a solid body guitar does both of the things that are mentioned in Irving Sloane’s book. Obviously the break angle is shallower, but also the string length behind the bridge is slightly longer, which most people don’t realize until you point it out to them. Another thing that D’Aquisto used to do was to substitute a solid, one-piece non-adjustable bridge if the customer asked for more sustain. All of this makes perfect sense in the context of top-wrapping. One thing most people don’t understand about top-wrapping is that you will have to bend your strings slightly farther in order to achieve the same change in pitch. It’s not a big difference, but it’s definitely a real phenomenon. I used to play on a set of.011 to .046 strings. It was a regular Slinky set with an .011 substituted for the standard high e. Top-wrapping gave me the best of both worlds-big thick strings that sounded and played great. Nowadays I flip some of my guitars and I don’t like to scar the tailpiece. I also use a.009 to .042 set so I don’t need to top-wrap in order to get the action I prefer. I build my own electric guitars from scratch, and on a stop tailpiece/tuneomatic style hardware setup I always put the tailpiece twice as far from the bridge as on a Gibson Les Paul. The difference in action and tone is absolutely amazing. You can put a set of tens on my guitars and they sound like tens but they play almost as easily as nines. Thanks for this video and if you have read my comment all the way to the end you have the patience of Job!

[@FlipDahlenburg]

Excellent post! I had Sloane's book decades ago, got it at a library book sale!

[@miket8985]

Great Post! Thanks. I too don't like scarring the tailpiece. I own a Les Paul and an SG (both top wrapped) and purchased a replacement tailpiece for both so in the event I do want to flip. I have a shiny, new, unscarred tailpiece for the new owner. Again thanks for your post. Cost 65 bucks for each guitar but adds piece of mind for me so well worth it IMHO

[@lumberlikwidator8863]

@@FlipDahlenburg Thank you! Irving was a pioneer and his book is still very relevant today.

[@artanddesign8561]

Really great post thanks for the tip on moving the tip back when you're making your own… I'm gonna check that out

[@AndykWilhelm]

Top wrapping cured my tuning issues on 339 instantly. I’ve had 2 previous techs work on my guitar. Third guy recommended this for the tuning. And it actually worked!

[@willdenham]

That's for certain why they did it. I can't imagine Jimmy, Joe and Duane thinking bends needed to be easier on a Les Paul.

[@alanwatts8239]

@@willdenham Right? lol

[@BobSperber]

I’m more of a fender guy, but I’m laughing all the way through this because I totally get it… It’s like all the geeky discussions we have about how to float your trem, how many springs and which aftermarket springs are better… and talk of roller nuts, etc. I do love all of this stuff. Enjoy your deck bridges!

[@panzerlieb]

@@BobSperber that what I thought too. I thought he way better tone with the tail piece “decked”.

[@michaelmurray8295]

It’s like top-load vs string-through

[@daev255]

Rn I'm loving the springs that came with my grover 4 point trem on my strat with vintage style fender saddles

[@AndyLugoCortez]

I love strats! I'm just starting out and would like some pointers please. What aftermarket springs are best ? Or what overall spring are best ? I have no idea about any of that stuff. Also how many springs should one use ?

[@panzerlieb]

@@AndyLugoCortez those are good questions. I’m not sure if anyone has gone down the rabbit hole of comparing after market springs.

[@mattandcandle]

Thank you for dispelling the myth that it affects the tension of bends! It's never made sense to me when people suggest that it does. Between the nut and saddle, the string needs a precise amount of tension (based on the gauge of string) to be in tune. If it has less tension you have either dropped in pitch or changed the scale length (in which case your frets won't be in line with your intonation). One could argue that because there is less pressure on the bridge the string is allowed to slide over the saddle more when bending, but that would actually counteract the bend by lengthening the string until it can't slide further (and we're talking fractions of a millimeter here).

[@marcop1587]

I know right? The tension thing just doesn't make sense

[@panzerlieb]

@@mattandcandle here’s the unique thing about these bridges. It’s that extra length of string behind the bridge that makes it easier to bend. The tension is the same for a particular tuning and string gauge. Over wrapping gives you just a little bit more string length to work with and make the string easier to bend. Think of the string as a lever. The longer the lever the easier it is to move something.

[@mattandcandle]

@panzerlieb If that is the case, a guitar with a bigsby must be ridiculously easy to bend. Is that actually the case? (I've never actually tried one long enough to notice")

[@mattandcandle]

@panzerlieb Also, assuming that the length of string outside of the scale length affects the tension, we would have to agree that for the length between nut and tuning peg as well. So, using a locking nut on a guitar would make it harder to bend as well (I'd try comparing the difference if I still had my old ibanez). I could still be wrong, but I still haven't heard an explanation for that that makes sense to me. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter. As long as I can hear the correct pitch and get it there, I'm happy. Sometimes a guitar that makes you work harder for it gives it character (not always).

[@LuvHrtZ]

It probably does make etch the entire string than a string with a sharp break angle. But then again, how hard can it be to bend a little thin string.

[@DonaldButler-u2k]

The first guy I saw who did Top Wrapping was Duane and that was in 1969. I asked him why he did it and he said it was to make the tension less and make it easier to play.

[@panzerlieb]

@@DonaldButler-u2k Duane was a slide player so I can see that.

[@UncleBoko]

I saw a guitarist with Screaming Lord Sutch & The Savages in 1963 who top wrapped his Gibson 335! My view is that soundwise at gig volume you won't hear any difference.

[@LuvHrtZ]

@@panzerlieb I get it. 😆

[@ulrichprieser6698]

You all should try Malcolm Youngs (RIP) rig. Biggest strings that you cant even bend.😅 After while I got used to it and play solo with that guitar. I dont use effects and a bit of overdrive. Sustain comes from my fingers/hand.

[@MrAntisound]

I don't believe that, the tension to get your tuning on A to 440hz is pretty much the same string tension. And if you top wrap the string gets a bit longer cause it's half way the tailpiece when it loses contact to the tailpiece, so if there would be a difference, than it would have a higher tension. Shorter scale guitars have lower tension cause the string is shorter. So standard tailpiece setup would probably have lower tension if there is any measurable difference at all. probably all in one's head. If you believe it that makes it true, no matter the science. if you want less tension, play with slinkier strings.

[@LoganFerguson04]

Production quality is really on the up every video you make. Keep it up man excited to see your journey on KZbin progress

[@KeeperOfTheSevenWhiskeys]

I also switched to top wrapping a couple years ago, mainly because of the break angle argument (and looks, lol). But i always think it's funny that people really think it would reduce string tension and make bending easier, like the amount of tension you apply to the string is what gives it that pitch you're at, only way to reduce tension is to use thinner strings or downtune.

[@normdeplume6492]

Just because those bits of string aren't within the play area it doesn't mean that those bits are out of play. When you bend a note it draws from string outside the play area as it's being stretched. When the tail piece is set high or top wrapped there is more string to draw from behind the bridge due to the slackened tension there. When you lower the tailpiece it increases the tension behind the bridge reducing the amount of string to draw from. More slack requires bigger bends to meet your target pitch. More tension means smaller bends to meet target pitch.

[@BigDinnerBoy]

When I top wrap I double up on the ball ends keeps the lock wraps at the end of the strings from being kinked when going over. Less string breakage

[@hms1]

Extra balls are good!😊

[@hms1]

I had a Martin D-18 and the saddle slot was cut so close to the bridge pin holes that the end wrap of some of the strings would actually hang over the saddle. I saved ball ends so I could double up. Eventually the bridge cracked and had to be replaced… ending the problem.

[@ArnfinnRian]

I came here to write exactly this. You might get scoffed hands from the Tailpiece because strings might have "rough" ends or sometimes even loose threading. Keeping the balls from older strings and threading your strings through those before threading the strings through the tailpiece can save you a ton of hassle. And I have tried both kinds of string attachments and I prefer topwrapping my .9's.

[@michaeljarvis5489]

​@@hms1 No way, just my own set in the mix, but you do you. And the other's pair, guess.

[@1993wethebest]

It’s called the captains trick

[@michaelpal7641]

In addition-you can take the "ball end" from your old strings and run a new string thru the "ball end"-doing this and you won't have the "kink" in the string which causes hand scrapes.

[@EpiLesPaul50s]

Top tip! Thanks for sharing. I top wrapped mine today, and I am really pleased with the results, but there is a noticeable bend/kink in the bottom E.

[@johnardbeg6381]

I have a Heritage 535 that came with "standard" through the tailpiece and after watching this video tried top wrapping - wow the difference was amazing. There is a whole new quality to the sound. I have a Heritage Johnny Smith and the sound of the strings resonating between the bridge and the tailpiece adds subtle harmonics to the sound, the piano effect. Top wrapping the 535 added a similar harmonic quality to the sound. Thank you, I have been playing for 56 years and this gave me a new reason to play more.

[@nuffdafairy]

I've seen this debated in guitar mags for years, then in KZbin videos. I've tried my les Paul both ways. I top wrap. Purely because I think it looks better and I feel I can feel the strings better when I mute with my right hand.

[@jcook3986]

Thank you, good video. Maximum sustain occurs when the LEAST amount of energy is robbed from the vibrating string by other parts of the system. So energy dissipated in the body, via the studs, and also the neck, headstock etc, all remove energy from the vibrating string and thus the pickup.

[@demonicsquid7217]

Just to add to this. The pickups don't pick up vibrations from the wood, they pickup metal moving in a magnetic field to create a signal. Wood in an electric instrument is an aesthetic, structural, and ergonomic choice.

[@mikevodden8098]

I've always agreed with both these statements. I saw a video once where someone put fine sand on the guitar and strummed it . None of the sand moved at all . Tone wood is just a myth like so many other guitar ideas that have guitarists spending fortunes to achieve "toan".

[@ManWithoutThePants]

@@demonicsquid7217 But if the wood vibrates then it can transfer the vibration back to strings making them also vibrate longer. Try playing a note without amplifier and then do the same with the guitar body touching a wooden table and notice the difference of the non amplified sound and how the vibration goes to table too. I'm not saying this makes any difference in sustain or sound, but it's just something that I have accidentally noticed when I have had my guitar touching a table. It could be that they all vibrate, but the vibration time is still the same. I don't really hear the difference when I do the same with amplified guitar.

[@jcook3986]

@@ManWithoutThePants Not quite. The wood vibrating can only dissipate energy taken from the vibrating string. That energy is lost as heat in the molecules of the wood. This cannot 'add' energy to the string it can only remove it. So my original point stands. This does not mean it has no influence on the overall sound. A guitar would sustain like an organ if this were not the case. Your comment about the table confirms my point, that the wood of a table allows the strings vibrations (energy) to be more easily coupled to the surrounding air. This just allows even more of the string's energy to be dissipated. The fact that it sounds louder acoustically means more energy is being lost from the string into the table and air.

[@EYOUTz1993]

@@GuitarRyder11 Jim Lill tested tone wood and sustain, and found wood means absolutely nothing so much that you don't even need it. By the end of his testing, he had strings in thin air between a table and a shelf held down with motorcycle engines, with only a pickup mounted underneath, and it sounded so close to a full guitar that you couldn't pick it out of a blind test. Pickup, and pickup location along string + distance from string is basically the only thing on an electric guitar that affects tone.

[@mjklein]

On the road as a professional in the 70s top wrapping was commonly attributed to Ronnie Montrose, and we called it by that name. Still doing it all these years later.

[@kurtweiand7086]

Ronnie is a huge influence to my style of playing!

[@mjklein]

@@kurtweiand7086 he was fantastic. Gone too soon.

[@Zburgz]

Just picked up a 2013 Gibson LPJ. Bought it with the tailpiece decked and strings top wrapped and just kept it that way because it plays fantastic.

[@jamlive6650]

Another tip when top wrapping is to clip the ball ends from old strings and put them on your new strings. The area where the nickel winds meets the ball end can have a tendency to break. Having the extra ball end reinforces the winds on the string making it less prone to breakage in that area.

[@SdMbL1]

How do you add a part of an old string to a new string? Or am I just not reading this right?

[@jamlive6650]

@@SdMbL1 slip the ball end down the new string

[@williamsherman1089]

​@@SdMbL1not totally sure on this and I really should look at a string first but I'm lazy, I think the ball ends are hollow through the center, just clip the ball ends off the old strings and feed the new string through the center. I think that's what the original commenter is suggesting........ I could be totally wrong.

[@zerolatitude2923]

@@SdMbL1 Cut the balls off of the old string. Slip it over the new string so you have two balls at the end. Works really well. Without doing that sometime you break strings. Done it for years.

[@zerolatitude2923]

@@williamsherman1089 right

[@James-Customs]

The 1955 Gibson catalog shows a Les Paul custom top wrapped. So that option has been around for a long time.

[@jimamsden]

The tension on the string between the bridge and the nut is determined by the string (diameter, material, wrap, etc.) and the tuning pitch. That tension will always be the same for the same strings and tuning - regardless of what happens before the bridge or after the nut. The tension on the string behind the bridge has to balance the tension on the other side of the bridge. What is different is the how that tension is distributed in line with the string and into the bridge/guitar body. A simple free-body diagram with 3 vectors can be used to calculate the values based on the break angle. There is no way this could have any impact on how the strings feel playing because the tension on the strings is exactly the same regardless of the break angle behind the bridge.

[@normdeplume6492]

It absolutely does make a difference in feel. As you say, tension is redistributed outside the play area while keeping the tension between nut and bridge constant. But, tension in the play area only remains constant until you bend a string. Just because those bits of string aren't within the play area it doesn't mean that those bits are out of play. When you bend a note it draws from string outside the play area as it's being stretched. When the tail piece is set high or top wrapped there is more string to draw from behind the bridge due to the slackened tension there. When you lower the tailpiece it increases the tension behind the bridge reducing the amount of string to draw from. More slack requires bigger bends to meet your target pitch. More tension means smaller bends to meet target pitch. Experiment by raising and lowering the tailpiece from one extreme to the other. Lower it to the body then tune it up and play for a few minutes. Then raise it. Tune up and play for a few minutes like that.

[@AnthonyAnthony-tk4ye]

If you do need your tailpiece up a little I would recommend using a washer or two (whatever it takes to get to desired height) so you can tighten the studs down good where the threads lock good and tight…. That will give you good vibration transfer and avoid buzzing

[@ronsmith1777]

Thank you, that was awesome. I get a lot of grief for top wrapping and the reason I top wrap is kind of silly. The new to me guitar just somehow didn’t feel right. I had a professional setup and tried a lot of things, but it just wasn’t comfortable. I decided to try the top wrap and it all fell into place. So that is how I play it and I think it looks cool!

[@Vintage35MM]

Good video. In order to fully benefit from raising the strings at the tailpiece (whether you top wrap or just raise the bridge) one has to also ensure that the slots on top of the bridge match the string shape, gauges and angles and neck radius. Gauged nut files also work on bridge pieces. Shaping the bridge slots enhances the ability of the string to slide on top of the bridge and renormalize the tension after string bends or after energized playing dynamics. A “V” shaped notch on the bridge and round wounds are going to grip the string and not permit one from fully benefiting from the change in break angle from tailpiece adjustments

[@dobiqwolf]

I really heard the difference between the first 2 comparison, tail piece raised and fully down. I top wrap my strings and have been doing it for a few years now, it just felt more comfortable when I did it on a guitar I have been using for 20 years. One thing to add to the video, I use a couple of ball strings as a buffer between the tail piece and the actual ball end of the string to avoid string break from the kink, this is a tip from Joe Bonamassa tech.

[@bveracka]

To clarify, you mean putting a non-wound string or two at the part of the stopbar where the strings kink? Or...? I'd like to know because I've got a Gibson that needs strings - and if Joe's tech does it, it's likely worth trying.

[@dobiqwolf]

@@bveracka Sorry, I think I was not precise in my reply. You take 2 of the ball end (without the string) you insert the string in the hole in the middle of the ball end so that the string as its ball end it is wrapped around stopping the 2 ball ends you just inserted not falling through. You then insert the string through the stop bar (tail piece) for normal top wrap. I hope it clarify my previous statement. Note that you need 12 ball ends to do it to all 6 strings.

[@bveracka]

@@dobiqwolf Okay, I understand what you're saying now. Thanks for the clarification. 👍

[@leonardo.rafael]

I didnt have an idea of this before your video. It makes a lot of sense to wrap. Not only to prevent the breaking thing but because the string/guitar contact increases a lot. Thank you very much.

[@TreyShreddings]

The only reason I top wrap is because it keeps my strings from breaking easily. When they’re going through the bridge, the break angle is so heavy that the saddle basically slices your string and breaks it. when I top wrap, There’s way less tension on the saddles and the string last much longer.

[@vorpalblades]

That's why the tailpiece is adjustable.

[@TreyShreddings]

@@vorpalblades yeah man obviously. But even then the break angle is too much. It’s my preference. You don’t have to agree with it.

[@dundun8640]

@@TreyShreddings defensive aren't we?

[@eagleowlish]

Does top wrapping increase the chance of string breakage near the ball end? Cause unwinding? That folding of the string there looks like it might. I currently have the strings touching the rear of the bridge and they certainly do snap there, occasionally. I raised the tailpiece but there's a lot of thread showing and i fear the bolts pulling out. I'm contemplating taking it to a luthier for a complete set up, with the bridge lowered, but wonder if it would it be possible to maintain the same action through truss rod adjustment.

[@opinionsvary]

​@@eagleowlishIn my opinion: I'd think top wrapping would alleviate a sharp point of vibration by bringing the string across a radius all while presenting a clean look that's snags less.

[@stevehamm5499]

You are a very good teacher. I don’t say that lightly because I have studied learning theory for many years. Your coverage of this topic was very helpful. I intend to keep top wrapping my guitars if only to decrease string breakage on stage or during recording sessions. Very good job!

[@sl3102]

I started doing this a couple of years ago when I switched to an aluminum tailpiece on my korean Epiphone SG, and man! The guitar responds so much more to my playing, and with a Seymour Duncan '59 at the bridge it sounds and feels amazeballs.

[@apebitmusic83]

I liked your comment until you said amazeballs. Haha

[@johnwales31648]

Thanks I will follow the legends on my 06 Les and 96 Korean Les. I appreciate you getting to the point and not SHOWING OFF IN YOUR DEMO.😎🌈🔦John Wales

[@Grishanof]

Didn't even expect a change in tone, just in handling, like string breakage and palm-muting. Thanks for taking the time to compare those.

[@gregkoelling615]

I top wrap to achieve greater aural awareness and paint my own sound with an enlightening brush of creative goodness.😎 (in other words, I'm full of it)

[@willdenham]

I do it for more oral too.

[@panzerlieb]

@@gregkoelling615 😂😂👍

[@RossWright-jy9mf]

Right on brother, and my the force be with you.....

[@FrankCastleThePunisher666]

I started top wrapping mine about 8 years ago after seeing Joe B’s guitars. I find that it makes the tone a lot brighter and gives more feel

[@maxwellblakely7952]

I do it bc it makes a nice little shelf for my heel palm to rest on.

[@bryantcochran5065]

Speaking as a luthier, top wrapping reduces the stress on the inserts which will keep the tail piece from developing a lean. (It does happen, especially with raised tail pieces)

[@cocoloco71]

I learned a trick from Billy Gibbons and Elwood. If you TOP WRAP, you take the ball of the old string and feed it down to the new string, resulting in two balls/rings on each string. That saves a fortune on strings. They hardly ever break. Plus, the best tailpieces for this are made by Music City Bridge.

[@Spyking18]

So you just have the other ball right next to the one that’s fastened on the new string? Between it and the tailpiece?

[@cocoloco71]

@@Spyking18 Yeah. It keeps a little more wrapped ball wire under the tailpiece.

[@MrJohnnyDistortion]

So then, you cut off the old ball end and run the new string through the old strings ball end? And what's the reward/payoff?

[@cocoloco71]

@@MrJohnnyDistortion NO! Don't cut anything. The extra ball keeps the string wrap (holding the ball) slightly more under the tailpiece. The payoff is less string breaking and slightly more sustain.

[@felipelotas5609]

Man...I´d love a pic about your idea...Is it anywhere in the web?

[@philipquail4044]

A very good, sensible comparison with no outlandish claims about the differences. Basically, it comes down to personal preference! Thank you. I don't top wrap, but if I need to raise the tailpiece to stop the strings touching the back of the bridge I use Faber locking studs (or even Faber spacer rings under the regular studs). It stops the studs tilting forwards and (I like to think) gives a more solid contact between the studs/tailpiece and the body.

[@satevo462]

My SG is hanging a foot above my computer monitor and I can't stop looking at the bridge and planning to try this.

[@Pelonius]

I was skeptical of the voodoo setups… but the sustain test was what sold me… the other setups dropped off quicker… the top wrap held longer before it dropped off. The reasons you suggest with string breakage are another… but I also need to say changing a setup on your guitar this much takes time to learn to play too… I recently changed from playing 11’s to 8.5’s and it was driving me nuts my guitar sounded out of tune all the time… I had to learn to press lighter on my strings so they wouldn’t go out of tune. I would also suggest if you change to top wrap on your guitar play it for 20 hours before you gig with it. Don’t make changes to your giging rig without enough testing time.

[@NewFalconerRecords]

You had me on string breakage. I'm a serial string buster, so I'm going to start top-wrapping for sure.

[@slicksnewonenow]

ALSO check and see if your nut slots are ideal for the string gauge your using... And that the entry angle of the strings isn't rubbing across a sharp edge on the nut...

[@otherfish]

started top wrapping tears and years ago - helped a lot with string breakage!!! One top is that you may need to notch your low E string a little deeper - if I don't the low E will pop out of the saddle if playing really hard/chugging heavy stuff.

[@chubbyoo7]

The guy from Aerosmith too. Seems reasonable to have the threads turned in all the way for stability. I had a L6 deluxe, string thru, harmonica bridge, the strings alway contacted the bridge before the saddles. Tuning was always an issue on top of that. I still would love to have it back if the guy who stole it is reading this.

[@chubbyoo7]

I was to the point of changing the bridge and adding a tail piece. The nut of course.

[@sporque]

If that guy has my '71 Strat tell him to return it too. 😊

[@benoitnezan]

It changes also the feeling of the right hand - the wraparound setup reduce the contact of the palm with the tailpiece and only with the bridge.

[@Bottiglianelleonde]

I always do that on my 335. But, honestly, in your video now I believe I hear a more full sound when you deck the bridge all the way down...

[@sharkey9]

Yes indeed. He strummed way harder with the decked bridge, that's all.

[@mikesolomon481]

AN EXCELLENT explaination of top wrapping ! I have one Les Paul set up this way and another set up as from the factory. For me, the lower string tension & slinky feel without going to a lower guage feels and sounds right for me.

[@MashaT22]

Great video. Just one detail I don’t think I caught you mention (and my apologies if you did). Can top wrapping cosmetically and/or physically damage the tailpiece in case we don’t like it and want to go back to normal? Like is there any risk of scratching or grooves developing on a typical Epiphone and/or Gibson branded tailpiece, particularly with rhythm players who tend to dig deep, shall we say? 😂 I always wanted to try this setup on my friend’s Epiphone Modern LP when I occasionally borrow it while she’s in town visiting her family, but I don’t want to possibly damage her guitar when she doesn’t seem to like that setup and wants a pristine looking tailpiece. I mean, I don’t think I saw any obvious scratches or grooves on your tailpiece, but figured I’d ask anyway. Tyvm! P.S. Have you seen the Dylan Talks Tone video on this subject? He focused mostly on whether raising the tailpiece kills the sustain and less so on the over-wrapping part (though he mentioned it) - very interesting thoughts and demo.

[@JayGuitars1]

Yes in can bruise the tailpiece.

[@theodavies8754]

Thanks for taking the time, For acoustic I have taken to opening a sealed pack of Martin M140 and leaving for a year before fitting. Takes forward planning for how often you change strings. Haven't tried it with electric but you would likely hear a difference. Metal properties change with time,there's a sweet spot age that is a personal preference. Maybe you have already been there with an open pack that had a 1st taken out and wondered why the set sounded different when fitted.

[@nigel900]

Not much mention that wrapping results in a 180 bend in the string (that can result in string breakage). 👉🏻 It’s the Man, not the Machine 👈🏻

[@stephengunterdc9651]

Actually, top wrapping induces a 90 degree bend out the back of the tail piece, with the string then curving over the arc of the tail piece top. The strings do not make a "U" turn of 180 degrees at any point.

[@nigel900]

@@stephengunterdc9651 Great Video 👍🏻 Another unforeseen issue was that the wire twist at the ball end extends through the tailpiece and can snag the palm of your hand. How I resolved this was to cut off the eyelets on the old strings, and laces the new set through them before installing. This acts as a shim that prevents the twist of wire from protruding through the back of the stop bar. 👍🏻

[@PIPEHEAD]

The correct phrase is " it's the rider, not the bike " !

[@nigel900]

@@PIPEHEAD General Chuck Yeager would disagree…

[@PIPEHEAD]

@@nigel900 That would have been his prerogative .....................................

[@TommySprocket]

I have been top wrapping my guitars ever since I heard an interview with Zakk Wilde talking about it when he was playing with Qzzy. Thank you for the clarification because I forgot the original reason I started doing it.

[@maon7565]

The notes will sing more if done the traditional way, its physics. If you really want it to feel slinkier, you can raise the stop bar, and/or select lighter guage strings. I always use 9s on my LP and raise the stop bar to adjust the break angle.

[@jfnarmour]

Gross

[@angelasluyter3867]

This is a very thorough video, covering top wrapping vs not in great detail.

[@peterprice8897]

I put a schaller roller bridge on my les paul makes a big difference when bending strings . Very smooth and easy on your fingers . No rattles either unlike the tunamatic.

[@MrMacguitar]

Just about to do this too. :)

[@JamesThompson-zk1ht]

@peterprice8897 An old teacher of mine told me that they cause problems with intonation. The front of the tune-o-matic saddles is a straight plane that gives a 90 degree angle to the string, so when fretting, which pushes the string in towards the body, the point of contact of string to saddle does not change. Whereas with the roller bridge (which I always thought looked like a great idea), the point of contact would change - very slightly, but as you know, intonation is set by adjusting the length of the string, and even a minute change while playing would eff up the intonation. Did I explain that well enough? So, is this something that you've tested for? Are you certain that it does not mess with your intonation?

[@peterprice8897]

thanks for the advice i will test the intonation and let you know the results

[@TheStrykerProject]

I definitely appreciate your honesty. I do have an SG that I have raised the tailpiece to where I don't like the look, so I am going to try top wrapping next time I changes strings and lower the tailpiece. Should look much better.

[@TheGuitarMan71]

Listen if Duane Allman top wrapped, I’m sure as hell going to top wrap too.

[@WebbChannel1]

Excellent video - I watch guitar videos all the time and this is the first time I see someone confronting this issue. I also Top Wrap and agree with all the points you made - makes sense!! Thanks Dylan!

[@mzblues1]

@dylanadamsguitar For those of us who don't want to Top-Wrap the Tailpiece, which has the possibility of causing other unwanted or negative effects such as: Adding extra string length (by wrapping the extra string around the Tailpiece) that makes stretching the strings feel different. FYI: If you watch the video from @DylanTalksTone, he actually finds out that the extra string length from Top-Wrapping causes you to need to bend your strings further to reach the same desired pitch/notes and you have to use more pressure/tension to accomplish that then when NOT being Top-Wrapped... Having to add extra string end nuts to prevent the twisted end of the strings from extending past the Tailpiece to prevent potential rattling, discomfort like getting scratched when playing, or creating a sharp string angle off the twisted end possibly causing more breakage. Plus the additional time and complication added to changing your strings. And scratching off the finish on the top of your Tailpiece. There is an alternative that allows you to get the effect of flooring the Tailpiece against the guitar like Top-Wrapping (which many believe positively effects your tone and playability); and still avoid putting too much pressure on your Bridge from excessive string angle by having your strings lying on the edge of your bridge that can cause it to collapse if you floor your Tailpiece without wrapping the strings. You can get the Farber Tone-Lock TP-’59 Tailpiece (or similar model, depending on your year/model guitar). Essentially, the Tailpiece can be adjusted to the proper height needed (to keep the strings off the back of the bridge at any chosen angle) while still having the Tailpiece metal directly touching down to the guitar by using the Tailpiece Spacers (which lock down against the metal bushings and the wood body of the guitar). And because of this locking design, string changes are a breeze too without the Tailpiece falling off as an extra bonus!

[@mmillslagel]

I'm building an ES335. I think I will give the top wrapping a shot to see how it sounds and plays. Thanks -- nice video.

[@georgesarris5556]

you can also do(I don't) ,, half top wrap G-B-E,, and half E-A-D normal , for tighter lower register and easier to bench higher strings

[@otaviosmartins1]

That is actually genius

[@CarsonLee-ll8ph]

Pitch and string tension are directly related, yet people assert that they can achieve the same pitch with less tension.

[@otaviosmartins1]

@@CarsonLee-ll8ph because its not about tension 🙂‍↕️

[@6nosis]

@@otaviosmartins1it is with my solos! Bad um tisss!

[@CarsonLee-ll8ph]

@@otaviosmartins1 Then what is the cause of the "easier" bending?

[@dunnosmapdi]

The other factor is feel. I suppose it's most apparent when you palm mute, but when you do make contact with the bridge, it is smooth and flat. Even strung normally with the tailpiece raised you get a little dip in there between the tailpiece and bridge. I much prefer the flat, straight "surface" presented by the top wrapped strings. Plus - I won't die on this hill as I haven't tested thoroughly, but when I have strung normally for a change, I did sense that string tension was a little greater. The times I've strung normally I usually end up changing strings sooner so I can get back to a top wrap.

[@PaulMcCaffreyfmac]

I top wrap so I can maximise sustain by having the tailpiece posts as far down as possible whilst avoiding the strings leaning on the back of the bridge leading to potential tuning glitches with the wound strings (not really a problem in truth) and a premature collapse of the bridge which will happen anyway over time. I personally can't tell a practical difference in tension any more than 'good mood' playing and 'bad mood' playing, if you know what I mean. I started typing this early on and at 4.30 minutes I suspect that we are in accord for the most part.

[@trevorbayfield4006]

i have a Tokai semi, and I'm definately going to Top Wrap. Because it looks cool. Thank you for taking the time.

[@RezaKhan2024]

I top wrap my LP. I definitely experience a slinkier feel plus more natural sustain. Nice video.

[@pritchettdan]

Yup

[@popsfereal]

imaginary.

[@FlorentChardevel]

Thanks for the video. I raised the tailpiece on an Epiphone LP a few years ago, and after some time I noticed the tailpiece had started to move towards the bridge. The screws weren’t perfectly stiff and started to bend, and it looked like I had ruined the guitar 😱 Thankfully I could just screw them back in, and that’s why I used top-wrapping instead.

[@GuitarGuyATX]

I think the biggest difference is the feel of tension from the string. I prefer the tension that not top wrapping gives. I like my Less Paul to feel snappier, more like a strat feel, but Lester sound.

[@CarsonLee-ll8ph]

Pitch and string tension are directly related, yet people assert that they can achieve the same pitch with less tension.

[@aaronwashington1973]

I felt it was a fuller sound, super cool. Thanks!!!

[@ThomasD66]

A decked stop does not "transmit more vibration into the body." A decked stop is a more rigid body so better resists deformation/movement from the vibrating strings leading to more of that energy being retained by the string. Standard guitar pickups are magnetic transducers - they respond to string movement, not vibration of the wood underneath. The less of that string energy that is bled off by contact points/contact materials the more of it that will appear as signal at the output jack.

[@danielbreaux1842]

Good thing the wood does not help the string vibrate longer.

[@neighbourhoodmusician]

But, potentially, the body of the guitar and the string sympathetically resonate with each other via the strings could contact with the tuners, nut, bridge and tailpiece, thereby extending the length of time the string will vibrate for.

[@ThomasD66]

@@neighbourhoodmusician No. At least not unless you are talking about amplification feedback. That is another can of worms entirely. (mostly because it represents an additional energy source adding energy back into the system .) In the absence of such additional inputs, when you pick the string you add energy to the system, resulting in string vibration, which generates the output of the pickup. Unless you pick the string more the amount of energy present only dissipates. The wood can never give more energy back to the string than that which it absorbs. In reality it will always return much less than it absorbs. Because entropy and laws of thermodynamics are like that.

[@neighbourhoodmusician]

@@ThomasD66 Three points: 1. Guitar bodies absolutely do resonate and affect other bodies they touch (put a guitar body on a table and then play it) 2. That resonation clearly affects the strings because playing one string makes the others resonate and require muting. 3. We are absolutely always factoring amplification into this because that's how we play guitar. I don't think you can take body resonation out of the sustain question. It may have an extremely limited effect on tone but the body can certainly be factored into the question of sustain.

[@playpaulbee]

Thanks for sharing this, I have a 70,s gold top that I top wrapped, just to see if there was any difference, and I'd say there's something maybe tension wise but the most interesting aspect is this guitar stays in tune better, which I can't explain but it does.

[@MT-dd9iu]

This trick absolutely works. I read about this in a Guitar World interview with Zakk Wylde 20 years ago, and tried it on my Les Paul. I've used it ever since, because it definitely prevents breaking strings.

[@caseykittel]

3:13 I've tested this as well. fact: top wrapping (because it gives you slightly longer strings) makes you have to bend a little further to get to the same pitch. you can test this yourself using a fine sharpie. using a higher quality guitar tuner, bend the high e at the 12th fret up a whole note and while holding the note draw a line on the next fret up where the string crosses it (make sure the string is still in perfectly in tune). now swap the strings and do the same thing, making sure the string is staying perfectly in tune. you will see that the string needs to be bent up a little more with the top wrap to get to the same note. this causes you to have to push the next string out of the way more, therefore you have to put more muscle into the same bend (you have to bend more and you have to push the b string out of the way more to get there). if you like it, great, but stop thinking it's less tension or easier bends (or even using the word slinkier). the note of the bend needs to be the same tension to get to the same note - or it would be a higher or lower note. having to push the next string up more to get to the same note means you will have to apply more force. again, if you like it great. keep doing it. if you have ever wondered why bending up the high strings on a fender jazz master is such a pain in the ass this is why, but it's way worse on the jazz master. you have a lot of extra string on the other side of the bridge AND the nut. this extra string, while it doesn't change the tension on the string (it has to have the same tension to tune to same note - same string gage of course) it does pull some string over the saddles and the nut every time you bend. that means you have to bend way more to get to the same note and in the mean time you have to bend into the other strings, which DOES make it harder. if you like doing lots of big bends you probably will not enjoy playing a jazz master or any other guitar with lots of string past the bridge and nut. with this in mind jimi hendrix had an advantage with his reverse headstock. the high strings were shorter over the nut. plus he played with thin strings and turned down a half step. if you want to get that exact hendrix sound when doing the bends are wild trem usage you need a reversed headstock. it makes a difference.

[@mafw5572]

Both normal strung sound the same, but the top wrapped had a little bit more low, but almost unnoticeable

[@masteringhouse]

I felt it was thicker and more resonant.

[@mafw5572]

@@masteringhouse yeah exactly, i was referring to that i didn't find the word before

[@Creepus_Explodus]

Exactly as expected. The body vibrations are not going to matter at all for the sound. Electric guitar pickups are not microphones, they don't care one slight bit about the wood vibrating more or less around them. The pickup simply cannot hear them. It might matter a tiny bit for sustain, depending on how much the string is dampened. But in that case you'd want the _least_ energy transferred to the body, not the most.

[@kft590]

Les Paul's are notorious for breaking strings due to the sharp angle on the high E string I started top wrapping because I wanted to see if it would help reduce strings breaking and it did. Elevating the tailpiece can put significant pressure on the studs holding it causing them to bend.

[@AlexPriceMusician]

1:06 god damn dude 🫠

[@johnfoskey7855]

That'd be th allman brothers..Elizabeth reed

[@bveracka]

Wow. Since I play fingerstyle, it's rare for me to break a string, but yesterday I broke the high E on my Midtown Standard. I'm definitely top-wrapping it today. When I was a teenager, I had '79 LP Custom that constantly broke strings at the bridge - now I know the stopbar was likely just too low. I can't believe after nearly 25 years of being a Gibson fanboy that I overlooked this. At any rate, bravo. Great video!

[@raymondfryar1533]

Leo Fender understood the advantage of minimal brake angles.

[@andreasfetzer7559]

Especially on jazzmaster bridges, when hit hard , the strings jump out of the bridge. Very important effect !!!😂😂😂

[@leovan83]

I’ve always top-wrapped my Gibsons with a stop-bar / Nashville or ABR-1, sometimes I do a “hybrid” by top wrapping the lower 3 strings (the skinny strings hehe) and regular stringing the bottom (thicker strings). This will allow me to have the “slinky” feel and the easier bending and vibrato that you get from top-wrapping AND I get the other 3 strings strung normally so I get the right tension for what I usually use them: playing hard, palm muting, and basically the feel you want/need, specially in my case (playing metal). Of course the “hybrid” method might just need you to raise your stop-bar a little bit in order to avoid the string touching the edge of the bridge.

[@bloozedaddy]

Some guy on KZbin used an oscilloscope testing the the same pickups/harness in different bodies and the differences were indiscernible....much to the chargrin of the "tone woods" officionados, I'm sure.. Your tests prove that unless you need a 28 second note over a 26 second note you're basically spinning your wheels. 🤘😎

[@JonWickensMusic]

Remove the stings from your guitar and tap the body. You’ll hear those taps through the amp. Wood does make a difference. Just because you may not be able to hear it, doesn’t mean it isn’t there.

[@HALWASRIGHT]

Well, you solved the case. You can go to bed now. Night,night.

[@michaelconolan2254]

It has nothing to do with tone or sustain. It is about reducing the break point angle over the bridge. It makes the strings easier to bend - like you’re using a slightly lighter gauge. That’s all.

[@mikethebloodthirsty]

So why dont manufacturers just use cheap shite pine wood then?, if it literally makes NO difference.

[@sleepdeep305]

@@michaelconolan2254 Then just raise the tailpiece

[@damienalvarez2957]

I began top wrapping my TOM bridge-equipped guitars because I kept having the issue of the wound strings snagging on the saddles and breaking off the winding. This was after I took my guitars to about 3 different repair shops and kept being plagued by the same issue. To my relief, the top wrapping remedied the issue and I only had to change my strings once a month versus once every week and a half.

[@swampscott2670]

The “slinkier” nonsense apparently is still alive and well. String tension does not change all things being equal otherwise. Physics.

[@mateuszkorus300]

Well the tension at rest might not change, but during bending there might be a bit more length of the string that you work with

[@alanagottalottasay997]

Dr Physics then why is it more common for increased break angle/slammed tail pieces to cause bridges to buckle? ….spoiler alert….because your altering the manner in which the pressure is distributed on the load bearing surfaces…..

[@peternicholas2393]

@@mateuszkorus300 is correct. This "top wrapping" technique results in a slightly longer string length. Incidentally, the same is true of guitars with zero frets.

[@mzblues1]

I recommend you watch the video from @DylanTalksTone, he actually finds out that the extra string length from Top-Wrapping causes you to need to bend your strings further to reach the same desired pitch/notes and you have to use more pressure/tension to accomplish that then when NOT being Top-Wrapped. If that doesn't prove that extra string length can have some effect, try stretching a string wire across a room in your house to a particular pitch, and also a 2 inch long string to the same pitch, and see which one is easier for you to stretch up to a higher equal pitch. I have my guess on which string it will be...

[@rohlfing63]

​@@alanagottalottasay997an increased break angle changes the direction of the force vector the string applies to the saddle (at the same string tension), therefore increasing the potential for the bridge to buckle, and also creates a higher stress riser in the strings, increasing the likelihood of a string break. Top wrap cannot change the string tension without changing the frequency or pitch, so if tension is the same, there's not going to be any real change in "slinkiness". Yeah, physics.

[@adamdarmstaedter1256]

I have a lot of Vintage Guitar Magazines and one issue has an article about the debut of the Les Paul. It showed original catalog graphics of the first TOM models where the images were actually hand drawn instead of photographs. The artist had drawn the guitar with Top-Wrapped strings - meaning the guitar he was looking at was top-wrapped. That means they were top-wrapping the strings at the factory on some of the earliest Les Paul guitars with the TOM bridge.

[@jsadctnfn1]

I have read a book by "Gibson Guitars", and the first tailpieces were designed to originally be top wrapped. It has been awhile since I read the book, BUT from what I remember (and it makes complete sense), was that, back in the early days Gibson didn't have machines cutting out neck pockets in the bodies. The inconsistencies from neck angle pocket, to neck angle pocket, varied. You could have one guitar with the slightest neck angle and by the time the strings got to the bridge, the tailpiece could be slammed, or decked. However, the NEXT guitar could have a slightly steeper neck pocket. by the time the strings get to the bridge on this guitar, the bridge is higher, and also the tailpiece would have to be even higher, to compensate for the neck angle. So, it completely makes sense that a guitar with a steeper neck pocket angle, makes the neck have more angle, and makes the bridge have to be raised more, and top wrapping just makes sense. Now, over the past 35- 40 years or so, with more machining going into the guitar building process, the tolerances of neck pockets have become a lot tighter, and neck angles are a lot more consistent. I don't think ANY modern Les Paul would NEED to be top wrapped. I have a 1980 Les Paul that the neck angle is pretty steep. It's either top wrapped, or the tailpiece is up around an inch off the body, and there is STILL good break angles on the strings to the bridge. I have a few newer Les Paul's, and the neck angles seem very similar, and top wrapping is not necessary. Anyway... just passing on some info from Gibson themselves, and my own experience.

[@LarrytheMan-uc4ev]

I'm a loyal Epiphone man no use for any Gibson

[@BlueberryStinkFinger62]

I have videos posted with specs of my High end Epiphones..so there's no dispute or arguments

[@LeopoldShitzalot]

No Les Paul and Epiphone the Gibson solid body Les Paul guitar wouldn't even exist today.👍👍

[@supadupahilton6848]

Ahh.. the ghetto Gibson😂

[@LarrytheMan-uc4ev]

@@supadupahilton6848 yeah and the only reason why you Gibson Les Paul even exists today and no one today wants gibson not since JC Curliegh Restored Epiphone back to premium in 2020 ..so open mouth insert foot 🦶 you GIBSON fanboys are very good at that.. keep us entertained

[@LarrytheMan-uc4ev]

Oh my 2021 Epiphone Les Paul you know the daddy of your GIBSON was $1,499 wouldn't call that ghetto 👍

[@sheldonlangston8002]

I’ve been doing it for years. I’ve noticed that in doing this with all my Gibson/Epiphone guitars, there’s a difference with each model. The bigger the maple cap is on the guitar the less string tension. The bodies of my SG’s angle back around the bridge and with them being flat bodies they have more tension than my Les Pauls. I can lower my tailpiece all the way to the body on my Epi SG but I have to lift my tailpiece on my Gibson SG a little after top wrapping them both. Top wrapping shines the most on my Gibson Les Pauls.

[@221b-l3t]

There is one main benefit. I have had wound strings snap at the saddle on Les Pauls, despute being relatively new. There is a high angle on them and the saddle can cut into the string. Top wrapping reduces the break angle so you're unlikely to snap a string at the saddle. I just do the wound stribgs though since I use ball end strings and you can cur yourself pretty badly top wrapping the unwound strings if you aren't using bullets. Haven't snapped a wound string since. Of course you can also raise the tailpiece.

[@qwertypower100]

Alright, good advise, well-put together video, clear and informative, easy to listen to voice...you got my sub, man. Much appreciated. One thing I might add is that top wrapping may wear down the finish on the tailpiece over time but these are easily replaced if such things bother you. I will for sure be coming back here to learn and enjoy. Thank you.

[@LRHutch]

Great video Dylan. It certainly makes sense. I always thought the wrap around bridge themselves were better quality sound and sustain than the tailpiece types. Have a good one.

[@martymcpeak4748]

a tip from Mike Hickey ( Joe B's Tech') is to take the ball end off the old strings and use them as a spacer for the new strings so the wrapping doesn't wear on the side of your palm when it's resting on the bridge stop bar... Cheers

[@MrAcEsNeIgHtS1188]

Honorable mention for Zakk Wylde who top wrapped his Les Paul Customs. Also for a short time around 1975 Ace Frehley was top wrapping. Depending on the strings you use because of the windings they have at the ball end-you may need to take an old ball end and put the string through it so the winds don't catch over the tailpiece. You might need to use two ball ends. YMMV

[@gonehome6245]

I think top wrapping is better primarily because it puts less stress (less leverage) on the tailpiece stud anchors. The net force of the strings is about 60 kilograms or 132 lbs in standard tuning. The net rotational force (torque) on the stud anchors has got to be quite large. I've seen those stud anchors get pulled enough to damage the hole. It's a recipe for pulling the anchors out at an angle. Then you have to epoxy them back in after reforming the damaged anchor hole. Top wrapping minimizes the possibility of pulling the anchors loose over time because the studs are screwed all the way down reducing the leverage. Top wrapping looks pretty cool too. The increase in sustain is a nice side benefit. But as I said, I think the greater mechanical strength is the major benefit. Thank you very much for posting.

[@LIKEFUNK]

I agree with you 100% in that it most certainly creates less stress on the studs and their threaded housings in the body for sure as the only consideration worthy of application. I'm not convinced it provides longer sustain though or affects the bending of string any better or worse as he himself noted. I use a different guitar entirely that uses a V tail and the break angle to saddle is deliberately waved slightly, I've never had any breaking strings issue with it even though the angle of approach from it to the bridge and saddles look a a tiny bit scary

[@KennethCrickmore-sl8jl]

In addition to how you set up the bridge and tail piece a properly cut nut has an effect on sustain and tone the material of the nut is a factor as well. I have a titanium nut on my "Stellarcaster"-Strat build as well as roller saddles on the bridge and roller string tree and locking tuners. but then this guitar has a custom hand made extended brushed stainless steel pick guard loaded with 3 quad rail/coil humbuckers the 6 control pots retaining the Fender 5-way Blade selector switch as well as the output jack relocated behind the bridge in the pick guard and is wired like a 50's Les Paul with coil splits 500K ohm P/P vol. pots, 20 of the tone pots are 500K ohm regular and the bridge tone pot is also a P/P to activate the bridge and neck Pick Ups together regardless of other controls. the pots sport chrome knobs abd the 5-wat a chrome tip. The paint on the body and head stock is a stars and planets space scene done with spray cans and airbrushed details with silver micro glitter lightly dusted over parts of the scene and lightly over sprayed with dark blue for effect. Finished with 2X acrylic semi gloss clear coat. all over a black and dark blue base coat. too many ton variations to count from this unique extreme Strat build. the name in in keeping with fenders naming progression from the original "Broadcaster" the suit and the name changed to the "Telecaster": then up to the "Stratocaster". then even further up to the recent Chinese made "Starcaster". so I went further out to the "Stellarcaster" because of how far out I went with the mods and upgrades. The paint reflects that farther progression as well.. I took the time to set it up properly and intonated well. I floated the bridge and tuned the set of 9-46 strings to E-Flat standard like any good Strat should be. It looks great, feels nice in the hand and plays out of this world. Wanna Play????

[@MrAntisound]

First thing i thought when i saw the title was strings break easier with steep angle if you dont use a roller bridge. That being said, the sharp bend of the strings when they go through the tailpiece is also a weak point. I'd say if you don't use a roller bridge with standard tailpiece setup you might want to round those corners of the tailpiece's string holes a bit with a dremel and polish them. I always smooth out saddles as well so the strings don't get unneccesarily worn out, cause i bend my strings a lot and with unpolished saddles you get more wear on the strings. And bending a lot is asking for breakage. That being said, you can also add 2 thick rings under the tailpiece so you can fasten the tailpiece screws tight to the body for your sustain. No need for tailpiece wrapping, even less breakage than with tailwrapping. cause it's not the length that the screws are in that gives you sustain, it's how tight the tailpiece is fastened to the body that does that. i've been making guitars and tinkering with them all my life, it's all about logic and materials knowledge, how stuff behaves.

[@joemitchell9981]

Before I knew about top wrapping, I backed the studs out really far to decrease the string angle over the bridge. Unfortunately, over time, the pressure actually caused the studs to bend forward. Lesson learned the hard way! Now, I always top wrap. Also, I love your playing. That sounded like In Memory of Elizabeth Reed and your soloing was awesome!

[@jimearp1095]

Yep- definitely a difference in sustain between the wrapped and unwrapped tailpieces and the decked and floating tailpieces. Absolutely noticable difference. Very cool. I will be restringing my LP promptly . . .

[@jamescaron6465]

I used to throw in a couple of brass bushings on the tailpiece studs to raise it but still keep it tight to the body when I set up guitars. 1/4-1/2” is all you need.

[@ildarrrr2]

I have about 40 guitars/ I do my topwraping every morning at 6AM! It reduces buzz, clears my lungs and improves breathing and digestion. I also thinking about buying an LP or SG guitar someday

[@scottdalrymple1716]

Great video. Whenever I tried top wrapping on my SG my high E would always jump out of the groove. I will have to try to lower my bridge all the way down next time and see how that works. Thank you.

[@williswet]

If you lower your bridge it will make it worse. Lower the tail piece and it should be fine. Unfortunuately you cant lower the tail piece on all guitars. It all depends on the neck set. Good Luck bud!

[@rikosborne1212]

I thought about trying top-wrapping, but after watching this I took a close look at my tailpiece (on an Ibanez with a Les Paul-type body). I already have it decked, but the studs are a bit different from the Gibson studs you have, in that they leave about an 1/8" gap, so it's higher and already providing that shallower break angle. If I top-wrapped, it would be *too* shallow, I think. I've never worried too much about the much-discussed sustain. I mean, in most guitar-based music--at least the stuff I listen to--there's just not much call for letting a chord or note ring for 20+ seconds.

[@davesanders8253]

The Top Wrap method has a slight advantage in tone and sustain. I recently scored an 06 Gold Top LP with P90s and it's in dire need of new strings. I'm going to try the Top Wrap method. Thanks!

[@TomMcLain-ft2cg]

I agree that it has thinner tone with the tailpiece low. Appreciate you doing the test. I top wrap because I noticed it was easier to bend for me.

[@larryblumerjr]

There's another practical benefit from the lowered tailpiece and that is the reduced leverage on those studs. Lowering will make them less likely to lean which can happen from age or from being whacked on something. As far as string tension goes, that's a function of string gauge and brand, scale length, and tuning. That's it, and you can look them up in pounds in a table. The break angle has no effect.

[@amateurmakingmistakes]

Glad to have seen your video, because now I can see that the tailpiece on my SG can be wound down. I use thick flatwound strings on on my SG, so I'll wait until they break before I top wrap (hoping I remember all of this!)