Why Don't Sailors Know this Technique for docking? Parbuckling

A short video on the technique of using a parbuckle line to bring the stern of a boat in, in stormy weather when the boat is blown off. Small demonstration and second demonstration of using a winch to bring the stern in to the dock. Sailing technique. Not an every day technique by far. In fact not a technique we have used in the last 4 years. But it is fun to play with. People will 'sweat/ swig the line' to bring a boat in. Mostly people will just get it right first time pulling in. But you never know when the day will arrive trying to haul a 50ft high freeboard boat into the dock, with 40knots blowing you off. And you just might think- 'O ye, that little trick'. Enjoy
I apologize now for the audio being out a touch.
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[@artfulalias3984]

The doubled parbuckle line multiplies the shore hand's force. But it is also sweating the stern line. Sweating the line is an extreme force multiplier. But its not constant. When the stern line is taught force applied perpendicular is multiplied many times over. But as soon as some slack forms the force falls off (its a trigonometric function of the angles formed by the lines). This is why its more effective to have a coordinated team with one person taking up the slack and keeping that stern line taught.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Very well put. We could really have done with a windy/ gale day to demonstrate it as a useful function. (the fact the boat gained momentum with little wind to resist actually made it awkward to demo.)

[@alistercarmichael4990]

The function is 2*sin(theta). The most advantage that can be gained from sweating a line is doubling the applied lemming force. It's the same calculation for angles into pulleys or sheaves for a two line (fall) system. Either sin() or cos() may be used depending on the angle used as these are the same scalar functions with a phase difference. They have a maximum value of 1. multiplied by the number of lines acting into the angle which is two. Creating a compound pulley system (with just knots) increases the number of falls and thus mechanical advantage but at the cost of significant frictional loss that could diminish the advantage by as much as 50%. As well as weakening the line due to the bend radius, the same mechanics of leverage, and heat from friction. There's only money in old rope if there is a mug to buy it.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi @@alistercarmichael4990 ,thanks for the breakdown. That is the reason we suggest a snatch block (1min50sec) to reduce the friction and avoid line damage. Though we did note- with some tension on the dockline, it rolled and unrolled with each pull, though if an extreme angle was pulled, this effect would stop. Are you suggesting there is a 50p.c reduction in the parbuckle effect? The bend radius shouldn't play into it too much as only a shallow deflection is created. Unlike the cleat the rope is wrapped around (which I guess depends on the cleat on the dock or boat), or say, a bowline knot in one end if it was so fixed (roughly 40pc reduction in strength off the bat, and more if the rope is nylon and wet) . By the time a small deflection is achieved, the tension can be released and slack taken. Have you ever tried it, or do you think its a no-go?

[@alistercarmichael4990]

@@theincompetentcrew rope on rope friction when loading in place of a pulley is huge. Look up the specifications for climbing pulleys. The % efficiency difference between bearing and bush pulleys is significant. A good bearing pulley will be in the high 90% efficiency. That's using bearings that ideally would be 100% efficient. So yes. You could be losing half of your theoretical gain. Not your total work effort, but the loss is in the extra 2:1 onto the line you are sweating. So rather than a total of 4:1 it would be closer to 3:1 advantage. A shackle over the standing line would provide a better running surface that rope alone. But you need to be careful not to lose the screw in pin. A karabiner is far better suited (and intended) for such a task. You could experiment with the system on the main sheet for lifting Vs input effort, or use a halyard up and down the mast to try and lift lemmings of equal weight to experience the losses. Before you know it you will have all the winches and shelves serviced to make life easier.

[@theincompetentcrew]

@@alistercarmichael4990 We did it with a soft shackle/low friction ring afterwards but the footage was terrible (different camera position) so didn't use ;). We are going to be doing some experimenting/ playing about over the next month (hopefully) with a loadcell so stay tuned. Thanks for commenting and hope you do again. Ben

[@sailingonadream]

As a single-handed sailor with a 12m boat, and nobody ashore to assist, I would never step off the boat until it is secure. My preferred technique is to run a long line from the midship cleat back through the stern cleat, and onto a winch. This forms a big loop to throw over a cleat. Drive the boat to the pontoon, doesn't matter if you are a bit away from it as long as you can throw a line. Stop the boat, the line will already be neatly in two coils at the stern, no need to leave the cockpit. Throw the line over a cleat near the stern and take in the slack on the winch. You can balance the boat with forward throttle and rudder, as you now have a stern line and spring set. Then winch her in. Once alongside, leave her in gear, step off and set the rest of your lines. No drama, no fuss, no sweat. Practice does make perfect though.

[@theincompetentcrew]

That sounds like a well practiced routine! Thanks for sharing it. I've rigged loops from only one cleat/fairlead , but not a larger loop as described. Nice one!

[@andrewmaticka5790]

This is exactly how I do it. The vid is monkey business.

[@theincompetentcrew]

@@andrewmaticka5790 🐒🐒🐒

[@ericgfx01]

But you should get comfortable getting out of the cockpit, no? I recommend “Stress Free Sailing” by that British bloke, he’s got several techniques for leaving and entering the birth single handed.

[@Crazybayzy]

Power is key to stabilization Constant flow over ruder🎉 I completely agree Fair winds my friend

[@tench745]

Bit of a tip given to me when I started sailing; when catching a line, stick your arm straight out to the side and have the person throwing the line simply try to toss it over your outstretched arm. No more tangle of (usually wet) line heading for your face, and if they throw long the line just drapes over your arm.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Good lil tip. thanks :)

[@jginmt]

I worked on a large schooner in Maine. We would use a pringline to pull us into the dock.

[@donaldfowlie6991]

We were taught to always use midship line first. Plus always take a turn around a cleat, amazing how much control the dock person now has. Have seen many a dangerous docking with lines that are much too long. Safety first. Thanks have been enjoying your lessons. Vancouver Island BC

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hey donald, we are still learning too. And yes, a midship line quickly sorts the situation and keeps the boat roughly where you want it. (using the engine and a midship line placed first is much more standard). The parbuckling is just a slightly unusual technique we thought we would share to see what people thought. Vancouver Island- hope we get our boat out there at some point, we did a road trip there a couple of years ago and thought it seemed like a perfect cruising ground.

[@thomaslangbein297]

Docking in offshore wind: Fasten a middle spring (unfortunately not all boats, at least not on both sides, have a hawsehole in that position), bring it forward to the shore. Inching in forward until the spring is directing to the aft will pull the boat automatically towards the pier.

[@ratusbagus]

Excellent vid on a little covered technique. If i could just add....without shore person. Tie one warp end to stern cleat. Lasso the perpendicular finger cleat. Lead tail end of warp to a coaming winch to form a bridle, preferably without routing that isn't violently sawing a safety wire or stantion. Shortening the bridle gives 2 to 1 advantage which can be increased by winching if insufficient for hauling. You may also be able to sweat and haul from the winch. But really. If blowing off, I like to use a mid cleat...any method of shortening... followed by driving forward or backward if you have engine. But establishing and titrating breast lines is just as good.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Great addition to the conversation! :) cheers!

[@WillN2Go1]

This is good. The 2:1 mechanical advantage and the pulling at the center of a line are important techniques. If you see any old movies of the clipper ships you'll see the sailors pulling at the taught rope and taking up the slack to cleat off at the belaying pins along the rail. I like going solo to the waste dock. I've got a bowthruster, so it's not hard. Tying off some part of the boat so I can step off is critical as is being able to tie off midships, and being able to work the boat along the dock. (I don't understand why your bow wasn't swinging away.) What I do is get the stern close enough to drop a line onto the dock cleat (46' boat center cockpit so some walking. Often I have to pull the boat back to the dock) I need the stern tied off enough so I can step off. I've also learned to flake the midships dockline along the life lines to the stern so I have it in hand as I walk forward to pull in the boat and tie it off. I could move one of my longer lines to the midships cleat and give it another wrap. Now as I step off I'd have the loop and the end. Drop the loop over the dock cleat and pull on the end. This is 3:1. For two years I've been dying for my old instructor to see me doing this, "Hey, hey! look I'm not a complete idiot!"

[@theincompetentcrew]

😁 cheers Will

[@KristiRich-k9f]

Very clever. You guys always make it look easy.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Ideas out of old books :)

[@peterdarby793]

I used this technique to move an aircraft carrier twenty foot down the pier with no power. But instead of a line tied to the middle of the stern line I loosened the appropriate spring lines and had ten guys sit on the opposite spring lines. Slowly the line would slacken and the ship would move backwards. We repeated a couple of times until we were in the appropriate position. This technique can also be used to pull a broached whitewater boat off of rocks.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi Peter, I've always wondered what it takes to move an aircraft carrier (or anything of that kind of size that floats). Apparently 10 men is the answer. :). Water pressure pinning a boat/ raft can be tremendous, scary once you experience it. Thanks for commenting.

[@sempertalis1230]

Lol, very interesting, I never saw this done before and will try it. Just for fun, maybe some day it comes in handy. Thanks for showing it.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Have fun! we always have a laugh with obscure techniques.

[@adrsauer]

Interesting approach-it's great to see stormy weather techniques demonstrated on such a peaceful day. Having a crew member already on the dock certainly simplifies things. I'm sure this method will work just as smoothly when the wind is howling and the waves are high. Do not get me wrong: Even if the video doesn't fully capture stormy conditions, the techniques shown could still be helpful in certain situations.

[@theincompetentcrew]

the next stormy day i get and they let me on a hammerhead, I shall have to do a comparison test between just sweating a line and applying the parbuckle. will be interesting to see.

[@tomwalters2529]

I like the 'Parbuckling' technique! In the right circumstances it could be done efficiently and quickly.👍

[@theincompetentcrew]

Totally agree, like you say in the right circumstances. I can think of a few times it would have been handy for us had we brought it to mind. thanks for commenting

[@paulprior934]

I usually attach bow line then put the yacht in reverse wheel hard to dock side , or attach line to centre cleat and move forward,only because I'm solo sailing

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hat off to you solo sailing Paul, thats a next level of difficulty, and stress. thanks for commenting

[@kailaniandi]

Catalina 30 owner here. My boat is in a slip, so super easy to slowly approach, and when I'm about halfway in, I walk quickly down my steps going forward to catch the pullpit. If I'm docking somewhere else I would definitely throw a stern line eye around the cleat at the dock, whilst leaving it in gear. Then bowline and finally a spring or two(depending on the location). At home I rarely use my fenders.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Thanks for sharing!

[@sv_wavedancer]

Well demonstrated, more tricks up the sleeve the better 💪⛵️

[@theincompetentcrew]

Probably never use it, but its fun to play with. :) thanks for commenting

[@theboatcheat1204]

Friction damage to the line is a risk with parbuckling. Winching worked a treat in Scalloway with 30kt blowing us off.

[@theincompetentcrew]

I think winching is the winner

[@RebelCowboysRVs]

The first one is better than 10 to 1. The line being pulled is 2 to 1. The dock line starts off moving the boat around 2 inch's in the first foot pulled. Thats 6 to 1. Being as it compounds, 6x2=12, so roughly 12 to 1. It actually starts higher than that an drops as the angle changes. I have seen two big men pull a Jeep out if a mud pit this way.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Wow! Bet that was a sight!

[@starfishsystems]

Almost always there is a narrow window of time for securing the vessel. You have one chance to take its way off, or you have one chance to throw a heaving line, or you're being blown sideways as you lose forward way. The best technique that I know for such cases is also the simplest. Use a BREAST LINE at midships. If you're single handing, you will step ashore with it and immediately get it around a cleat horn. You may also have carried a bow or stern line ashore at the same time, for additional control to prevent the boat from yawing off. Now you can SURGE the breast line gently to take the way off the boat, or alternate between SWIGGING the line and taking it up around the cleat, to bring the boat alongside. (The mechanical advantage of swigging is identical to parbuckling, except no extra line is needed and no time is wasted in setting it up.) A sheet or halyard winch provides excellent and immediate mechanical advantage, but only if you have a crew member aboard. And it too is best applied to the breast line, or to a second line similarly made off. Position your sheet car at midships and use it as a turning block from shore to the winch.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi, thanks for the comment. I posted these because recently I watched a boat docking with a crosswind, and instead of coming along side, they brought the bow in first (pointed into the wind, like picking up a mooring ball), lasso'd a line to fix the bow, took in the excess, then calmly one crew popped of the bow (bit brave for my liking) and walked a stern line along the dock. It was interesting to see but a very calm process that got me thinking. And yes you are right, midship line and using the motor takes away all the pressure from the people. ( its the logical choice, in many situations the only choice like you said). The process of parbuckling gives a 2:1 pulley advantage over Swigging/ sweating which is 1:1 ie only the force you can individually pull sidewards, vs you with a 2to1 block. (though the deflection of the mooring line gives the main advantage), so maybe this is more applicable to larger yatchs? I have spent more time swigging a line on a cleat than I like to imagine . thanks again for the comment

[@mjanulis3603]

I like the parbuckling techniques although I've never used it. I prefer to have a long line tied from the cockpit and run forward through my mid-ship cleat and back to my dock pole tip which is with me in the cockpit. A bowline loop gets fast attached to the pole tip. I can stand in the cock pit and reverse my stern up to any dock cleat letting the wind blow my vessel 90 degrees to the dock (stern-first) then reach out to place the bowline loop on the desired cleat (pull away my pole) and then tie off and ease forward & then back pulling in the slack out until my mid-ship cleat is tight to the dock. Then I am usually close enough to secure other lines from my vessel fore & aft. Or using the forward & reverse motion to get close enough to hand the fuel attendant my remaining lines. I saw this technique in a nice video online. If I can find it, then I will post it here.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Thanks for commenting, I think I’m the same. It’s a fun technique but in reality, there are many easier methods like your own. Thanks for adding the pole technique, I’ve never tried it but seen a few people make it look easy. :)

[@jonscott8586]

I have a similar fitting to a buoycatcher that will sneak under a ring that is laying flat and I expect the stainless Hooks Sam uses would do that too. They appear to be about 100mm long and about 8mm diameter with a ring on the other end to tie a line to.

[@obiwanfisher537]

2 Sailors is not shorthanded in my opinion. But on my own, I would probably lasso the cleat with a big loop through a block midships and spring myself against the dock with forward motion, then with the running engine I'd step off and tie of the other docking lines. But the Parbuckling one is a nice idea. I remember we once pulled like stupid at a 15 ton boat to move her aft a few metres to make room for a different vessel. It was tough work for all of us.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi, thanks for commenting. The way you describe is the standard. For this video I was concentrating on basic ways to get the boat in without power and without back breaking work. Also, for short handed, I Suppose it depends on the size boat and how its fit. We're 14m LOA with hanked sails. (13.5T). And a long keel. It makes for a little work sometimes.

[@bEll-em9rf]

As husband and wife liveaboards, we set up all the normal lines but use a loop from our centre cleat, outside the rails etc then tail comes to a winch near the helm. She drops the loop over the pontoon cleat, and i take up the slack on yhe winch. I can then continue to motor ahead and the boat is sucked to the pontoon. You can then steer to bring in bow or stern as appropriate. Keep gently ahead whilst you then make off the other lines. I also do this on my own. For those without a centre cleat, i have seen people tie to the shrouds but not something id advise. Obviously you need to check the pontoon cleat has horns ( the French try to bugger this up by having hoops!) but can still be done - crew steps off, passes it through the hoop and drops it on our cleat.U may prefer leaving it on the boat, passingbthe tail through and throwing back to the boat so that least if that doesnt work u have a midships line they can cleat and you spring against.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Sounds like a well tuned setup. Having that midship loop ran back to a helm winch is like having a third person to help onboard, very efficient. Lets your deckhand move onto another line quicker. Thanks for commenting.

[@CrewNo2]

I have watched large men nearly fall into the water as they try to pull a heavy boat into the dock in strong winds. Interesting techniques. Might have a play with them. Thanks.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Thanks for sharing

[@hatatfatcat]

I have been one of 3 large men battling to assist a yacht dock in a strong crosswind, eventually we gave up and the yacht had to take another 2 goes at docking before we managed to get her moored up, this would have been very handy to know.

[@theincompetentcrew]

@@hatatfatcat I think every one of us has been at least a few times. Always seems more stressful docking a boat when its windy for some reason :)

[@kailaniandi]

Always use the cleat, to avoid being pulled in.

[@theincompetentcrew]

@@kailaniandi Its surprising over the last few years how many times we have seen people pulling by hand when the wind gets up. On any calm day, I don't think they would. O well.

[@koenijnn]

My boat goes backwards quite ok, so if the jetty is long enough like in this video I can in even quite strong winds drive with the back into the wind to the cleat on the end of the dock. Throw the line over the cleat, tie off and put engine in forward so it pulls up next to the jetty. Easy to do solo from the cockpit or just next to the cockpit.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Using the motor to do all the work is the best and obvious choice 9.999 times out of 10. Thanks for commenting

[@BornAgainCynic0086]

did you not watch th whole clip?

[@olafschermann1592]

I used the winch a couple of times. What i fear more is the wind towards the dock when i am single handed. Once you are standing still the wind turns the boat.

[@theincompetentcrew]

I like the wind towards the dock, holds our boat in place once against it. I get that it can also be a nerve wracking pain most days though for most manouvering. thanks for commenting.

[@adelheidsnel5171]

the winch I used, but the first one is a great tip!

[@theincompetentcrew]

Thanks Adel. And the winch really does make things easy

[@fs7453-il]

Go forward against a bow spring line with rudder away from the dock.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Thats absolutely valid! (in fact its what we did right after making this video while re-attaching the other docklines). For this video I was trying to concentrate on manual handling techniques with the boat and find out if anybody else has any obscure techniques. Thanks for commenting. :)

[@sailinghjem]

Had a few occasions this season where fellow sailors are trying to use brute force, to their own detriment. Winch every time. Although one of the times we needed to do it, the French ‘cleat’ was a metal ring which just couldn’t be looped from the boat. If you’ve got any tips for this, please share!

[@theincompetentcrew]

You are on your own on that one. best I could suggest is radio ahead and hope they have somebody on the dock waiting for you. Or have a quick deckhand, deckhands are becoming too slow nowadays. 😉

[@jonscott8586]

Sam Holmes sailing is mostly single handed. He has long stainless hook made which help him connect to rings, cleats and moorings. There's also also products like buoycatcher which will loop a line through a ring using a long staff.

[@sailinghjem]

@@jonscott8586 thanks for the info! The issue we had was that the loop wasn’t upright as it would be if it were atop of a buoy, but they were iron rings literally flat to the ground. Really needed a person ashore to deal with them, which isn’t always ideal!

[@sailinghjem]

@@theincompetentcrew 😂😂they definitely get slower the worse the conditions too, I’ve noticed from the helm 😝

[@jonscott8586]

@@sailinghjem the hooks and buoycatcher work if the ring is flat on the ground. At the very least, a stainless hook would connect to the lower ring securing the larger one to the Dock until a more permanent connection is made.

[@sailingsibongile]

NOOO !!!... If you are being blown off the dock then get your midship line on first. That will hold your boat centrally, and if the bow swings because of the wind then the stern will come closer to the dock. However, the 2nd line to get on is your bow line, because the wind will catch that most; and then your stern line on.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi sailingsibonglie, you will be relieved to know its just hypothetical (as stated) to demonstrate the classic technique of parbuckling. :)

[@theincompetentcrew]

But yes, fixing a midship line will keep the boat in place followed by the rest :)

[@shanearthur6]

You could tie off to the dock then use your winch . ???

[@theincompetentcrew]

Certainly!

[@boathemian7694]

As an old schooner captain I’m amused by people commenting who think little fiberglass yachts are heavy lol. When I got divorced I had to always handle my 46’ FC schooner all the time. All conditions, including two years when she didn’t have reverse gear. Great times.

[@theincompetentcrew]

I guess the weight is all relative. Losing the reverse gear would certainly create a lot of warping around I would guess. What was your schooner like?

[@boathemian7694]

@@theincompetentcrew my boat was a Jay Benford design named TOKETEE and she was our home for a long time. Raised my son on her, she was a Marconi ketch when we got her and Tom Colvin helped me rig her as a lug schooner (junk). She was our personal home and we chartered her seasonally. I had a machine shop in the focsle. Eventually I started working on bigger inspected schooners and we sold Toketee but that’s another sad story that’s easy to find online. Now I’m retired in Maine with a 22’ Herreshoff schooner.

[@theincompetentcrew]

@@boathemian7694 O cool, I had a google, a very pretty boat. A friend of ours has just built a 32' Jay Benford with junk rig. I'm quite impressed by it. a very nice boat. I love the lack of stays to go wrong, just a solid mast (well, 2). I have dreamed of having a boat big enough to have a machine shop inside. One day

[@BornAgainCynic0086]

weight is weight, regardless of your heroics.

[@rickdoehler502]

if you tie the dock lines to the clets on the boat then you can have two people on the dock bringing the boat to the dock.

[@theincompetentcrew]

That is true. Thanks for commenting. (Its also it is how we would normally arrive at a dock with all lines ready to go, but with the stern line made into a loop for the helmsman to lasso a cleat).

[@jmorrow6913]

Do vector analysis on the parbucle ~ if the load line has no slack (yes that is impossible, but stay with me) any deflection results in a infinite pull. This is why "sweating" a line by pulling sideways can get it really really tight.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi @jmorrow6913 , the analysis I did was not my own work, I went with forces on a tightrope for rough equivalence (I used to slackline poorly), however in the next month I'm hoping to do a far more interesting video you might like. Thanks for commenting, sorry for the delayed response. Ben

[@chrisgoldfinger7834]

This isn't parbuckling, Not sure what it would be called other that sweating the line in with another line. Probly another term for it. Parbucking involves putting a line around something, like a capsized boat, and rolling it upright. Was used on Pearl Harbor capsized battleship. Have used it to roll fuel drums floating in water up onto a low dock. Google it up for pics.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi chris, I am aware that the origins of the technique are as you described. It started with moving Casks (many years before us) and was just a rope halved to create a loop, and the object to be moved put inside the loop creating a mechanical advantage when one end was pulled and the other made off. The technique was also used at pearl harbour and on the Costa Concordia a few years ago (albeit a very fancy version with serious mechanical advantage over many many blocks). The references I found referred to the technique as parbuckling - there was a bit of googling over was this an accurate name for it but seemed to be the name some sailors had settled on. The original parbuckle/ two buckle- www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/parbuckle Open to better suggestions. Ben

[@23degrees]

If the scenes confusing to anyone, it's very similar in concept to how you tighten a hallured on a small kielboat with no winch.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Cheers! We don’t have any experience there but can see how it would be the same concept!

[@Boca-do-rio]

Use the back bolder in a 270° degree with the rope and let your deckhand role the rope once arround the middle and she/he has no need to use the hands to pull.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Its nice to be nice to the the next guy in line :)

[@faircompetition1203]

Just run your parbuckle line to the primary winch

[@theincompetentcrew]

Fair idea!

[@rickdoehler502]

Also, have your lines cleated to the boat first.

[@theincompetentcrew]

😂 excellent tip

[@jaliljacallen4114]

Parbuckling - cool! But my question is, first - why would you not just sweat the line? The person on the dock should never be just pulling on a line, it needs to be around a clear so you can sweat it. It would be a pretty extreme circumstance where sweating the line is too hard. I regularly sweat up my 20 ton catamaran in winds 15-20 kn. Second - why are you starting with a bow line? A spring line from the midship cleat will work better. Engine in forward, sucks you right in to the dock.

[@CrewNo2]

I commented earlier to say that I’ve watched grown men struggling to not be pulled into the water as they work to bring boats into the jetty. 15-20 knots is a nice breeze, but in 40 knots, I can see how one might need more than their own strength to manhandle a heavy boat.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi Jaliljacallen, Yes motoring in and tying off straight away and sweating the line when necessary would be the standard practices. As stated a few times in the video, you aren't going to use it every day, it is more a technique that would come in on windy/ gale days (by memory, the wind loading from 15kts to 30 kts is around 4x greater?, and its then the technique might come into its own) . I can only think of two or three days where this would have been useful to me over the last 3years. I have just tried to give a quick scenario where parbuckling technique could be applied. :)

[@johsieanna]

How about you just step on the line and use your body weight to get slack in the line which you then pull. Also works singlehanded and does not require working with another line

[@jasonhuxley674]

Also half turn around the cleat (under both horns and up to the deck hand. This should hold in most conditions, you can then use the full force of your legs in an upward direction (safely) and sweat the line with your body weight (foot) as mentioned while being able to take in the slack

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi, yes, you can sweat your own line by standing then taking. Probably the most common way to sweat a dock line. And the way you see on docksides everyday for taking that little bit more. Slight risk for those with less balance. Thanks for commenting

[@maddocmucmaddocmuc5341]

Much too much rope involved in this. 1. Use winches. 2. if no winches available, 1 person on board steps with 1 foot on the tought line until it sinks a little, lets go and the second person pulls line taught again from the boat....

[@theincompetentcrew]

It is a lot of rope! We have not used it yet 'in anger' so to speak, as you say, there are many easier methods. A weirdly fun bit of teamwork though.

[@cokeariail9398]

So the actual easiest thing to do if tied at the bow is to just put the boat in reverse at very low speed and angle in.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi, thanks for the comment. Realistically, every single docking maneuver is made with the engine , and under this circumstance motoring forwards or back on the line, depending on boat will work.(trust me, we aren't going to come along side then let the boat blow off just to make our lives harder pulling on lines by hand each day). I'm going to have to change the scenario to ' you almost dock and throw a line to shore, but then the engine dies, what do you do cokeariail9398??''. :)

[@davidcaerbert9531]

Side show

[@theincompetentcrew]

More like main event

[@hometoy1]

What have i just watched....... would love to watch him explain time......

[@hometoy1]

Sorry... i shouldn't be so mean.... found it more comical then anything else...

[@theincompetentcrew]

Haha, glad you enjoyed.

[@bazra19]

Never throw the whole coil to the person ashore. as in the vlog. That is very Unprofessional. Always throw the bight; that way, the person on board has control and, when letting go, can do it from on board; in this case, the person on board can throw the mooring line over the open-ended cleat and then you don't need anybody ashore. Always Secure the bow line first; that way, you can use the engine to bring the stern in and put a 40ft boat in a 35ft gap (without touching the boat in front or behind). The last thing you want is some clown ashore struggling with arms full of loose lines. Please don't shout or gesticulate with waving your arms. It looks tatty. I like to throw the breast line first. That way, you can use it with the engine as a forward or aft leading spring.

[@theincompetentcrew]

Thanks for adding to the convo! Cheers :)

[@mainesail3097]

JAYSUS---you have someone on the dock--THE REAL SKILL IS LANDING THE BOAT WITHOUT A DOCK HAND---this is baby crap

[@theincompetentcrew]

Hi mainesail, yes, the trick is to get it right first time. You will be relieved to know this is not normal practice (as stated in the vid). Its a demo of two techniques par buckle and winching. Thats all. :) If the wind gets up 30+ knots, these techniques might start coming in. At that point, motoring against a warp might not do much at all.