Why I hate the Zortrax M200 (and what I'm going to do about it..)

[@whatyoudo9773]

I have an M200, might be newer than yours, a few little glitches but it prints great, extreme high quality prints.

[@kordianlewandowski]

I have been working on this printer for 3 years. It was my first and last printer. Reading the great reviews and confronting them with my dramatic experiences, I thought that I just have an anti-talent for 3d printing. Regularly clogging print head, which I replaced 3 times, because cleaning it is almost a miracle. Putting silverware on the table top to close the electric circuit, very frequent unscrewing the table top and cleaning it with acetone. I think that just one in 10 prints was fine. The print quality is really great, but exactly as you put it: when the printer is working. Thank you for this video. It is a great feeling to find out that I was not alone in these disastrous experiences.

[@arealious25]

I've had my M200 for 3 years now with no problems. And any errors that would occur it would be my fault or negligence.

[@justyov]

Hi, And how about the ABS parts? it's ok?

[@arealious25]

@@justyov Yeah so far. I usually print with ABS. If youre using 3rd party filaments, you may have more trouble dailing in the correct settings.

[@IlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlI]

I am so far beyond satisfied with my M200. I've had mine for four years now and it still works brilliantly. Sometimes it may sit idle for a month or two between projects, but it always works perfectly and reliably when I want to print something. Deeply satisfied buyer here.

[@srenmadsen3079]

@@IlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlIlI You don´t have problems with prints sticking too hard on the bed?

[@adventuresimon.4456]

Wow this is like watching myself and the problems i have with this machine. I have 3 and yes its often only one in service. Print is great as you said but when it gets hormonal it really does spit the dummy. Have to agree strongly with every statement you made an all the headaches you have suffered.

[@m62924]

Keep in mind this is my first comment on youtube, i could not sit here and listen to the false statements being made by a products that works perfectly if you know how to use it. Im not sure if your using hammers or hands as I have 5 of these printers both M200 and M300, (just bought the new m300 plus which so far it seems that they have made many improvements on) while they have their disadvantages they have been very good to me, I dont think these deserve that much hate as you describe. Some of the points you mentioned are false in my experience, I use all 5 printers on a daily basis 7 days a week day and night, they rarely get any time off. (so please dont try say i dont know what im taking about) - They can be stopped while printing. - If you make ABS Juice and spread it on the platform before starting a print you will never get any warping. - Never cleaned the plate more than scraping it with the spatula the left over abs juice - I have bought 3-5 nozzles over the years and when they do get clogged up i soak it in acetone until I need to change it again (usually every couple of months) - The connectors let it down, as i have broke one of them, however if your using 3d printers use them and create your self a case around the connector and glue it down, you will never damage the connector again. - Yes cables are fragile however again being careful goes a long way, i have broke one of them and since then only grab it by the plastic connector and again never had an issue. - The motors have never clogged up for me and i have probably cleaned maybe 2 of them from tiny particles while I was carrying out standard maintenance, keep in mind i did not have to clean them once due to not printing properly. Yes separating the raft and support did become tricky from time to time on complicated prints, however again never really caused major issues if you have been working with 3d printers and learned the skills to remove support. No SD cards broke, No on/off switch broke, Your machine looks used and abused, I would say take care of your machine and it will take care of you. Hold tight my G, roll safe.

[@TeachingTech]

You can only comment on your experience and I can only comment on mine. Ultimately these machines (three of them) just haven't performed as reliably as the many, many other 3d printers I have used over the years.

[@russelj79513]

Agreed on all points. I've Hundreds of hours of trouble-free printing on Zortrax M-series units in my rapid prototyping studio. They are a semi-industrial printing ecosystem with a wide range of sophisticated polymers available. It is a high quality precision product and like with any precision device, routine maintenance and care are a small penalty. And by maintenance I am referring to cleaning and lubrication - your unit is an embarrassment. Lightly de-glazing the bed with 320 grit water paper every 100 hours or so is a recommended maintenance routine. That, along with a quick wipe of the build platform with acetone before each print prevents any chance of print separation. Never needed juice primers and never suffer failed prints. Its a sophisticated, robust, precision device - not for printing entertaining trinkets. Comparisons with Creality CR's and other hobbyist products is a joke.

[@Macek_7]

@@russelj79513 in video is visible how bad is solved thing like bed connection, adhesion, control during print, locked sw and many other things which from my point of view is horrible to deal with, even if the printer itself will be 100% reliable. I have 25 printers, most of them prusa and if I think about zortax with this kind of solution for bed connetion, leveling etc. it will be nightmare to run farm based on these printers in compare with printers like prusa. THanks TT for video, he just saved me money for this printer.

[@leigh6870]

Don't print straight on the perf bed. Tape it over with painters tape (blue tape, like masking tape). Manual level the bed. good to go. (Use the Zsense, and the Ztemp if you have them). Use good file management between STL/Zsuite and SDHC card. Keep the nozzle clean. If your printer is running often, then maintain it, often.

[@odudex]

I had a very similar case. Bought a Rockit 3dison PRO. A Corean premium clone of a Makerbot(yes). Good mechanics, and electronics, terrible slicer. After years struggling, I removed the board, replaced with a MKS SBase-Marlin 2, added SSR heated BED, water cooled extruder and Trinamic drivers. Now I'm happy :)

[@TeachingTech]

And twice as satisfying because you did the alterations yourself.

[@Portugal_Pete]

I've had my M200 for almost 3 years... and I haven't had any significant problems nor one single miss print. The only issue I've ever had was a bad wiring contact with the heat bed that was solved with a a fine brush and some rubbing alcohol. I always keep the nozzle clean with a quick wipe when hot with alcohol soaked pad... and regularly wipe down the heat table with alcohol as well. I never have to "hack" my prints off... the heat table in the vid looks horrible. TIP: I've found that spraying the bed lightly with some silicone based spray to get in the holes, and then thoroughly wiping down the top surface of the bed to remove spray residue results in a much easier print removal. This video presenter's experience certainly hasn't been mine... I absolutely LOVE this printer!!

[@davidelysium5813]

This is out of date - the latest Zortrax machines are brilliant - I have 4 of them! :)

[@titaniumapple1]

I'm glad someone actually pointed out things that matter on a 3D printer - so many reviews gloss over these issues, they just concentrate on the print quality. Hard support removal is the worse thing in the world - I found reducing the print temperature by 10-15 degress makes a MASSIVE difference and makes it a LOT easier to remove - is that possible on the new Z-Suite?

[@TeachingTech]

The new z suite is a lot better. You can finally tweak support settings too. I find the z abs filament needs high temps for the layers to bond properly.

[@fredriklarsen5968]

We have 2 of theese, they are reliable and work very well, BUT, the perforated bed is absolute shit.

[@homer80s]

@@fredriklarsen5968 I never have problems when I remove the part right after printing is completed, it just pops out. After part/machine cooling down, it is a different story. The raft sets and for removing you need to re-heat the bed up to 70~80% then slowly force and work the chisel between the part and plate. Result: I don't have a single scratch on the plate!

[@dsp4392]

This machine sounds like the Mac of 3D printers. Great build quality and intuitive software, but proprietary everything and limited functionality.

[@sharkmusic9636]

nah, mac is not that bad, its still very powerful and often the programs that you can run on mac are wayyyyy faster on the mac when you compare it to a windows machine with the same power and specs. Mac is more expensive but you pay for software and its support and it will always work fluently, my 12+ y/o mac still runs very nicely!

[@hideway9819]

Shark Music Macs are not very powerful and are very overpriced.

[@sharkmusic9636]

@@hideway9819 not powerful in comparison to what? sure they are less powerful than an equally priced pc

[@hideway9819]

Shark Music to a equally priced pc.

[@jerryli1923]

how do you even connect the stupid thing to wifi?

[@leandropittacampione]

You can pause the print by pressing 3-4sec at the button

[@TeachingTech]

Good tip, thanks for sharing.

[@nuhwandahnu5549]

I got one a couple of years ago and it's annoying but quality makes up for it...maybe. Added the Z-temp hot end helped a bit with extruder jamming. But overall spot on in majority of your points. Great review!!

[@TeachingTech]

We have the z temp z sense bed upgrade but have never tried the heating upgrade. I wonder if z suite 2 has put z temp out if business?

[@TheMrByrom]

Almost got a Zortrax 2 years ago. I then saw the Wanhao 6 and almost got that, but the supplier had delivery issues and we canceled the order. I wanted to make trebuchets with students. I needed a printer that could handle 16 inches, or the students would have to make the arms out of 2 pieces. I found a local company that has re-branded the old RigidBot printer and gave it better components. They call it Reliabuild3D now. I have 4 of them in my classroom (all still working great). If you have good mechanical, electrical, and programming skills, and the ability to problem solve, you can make almost any printer work. Or, even build one from scratch. Good luck with the transplant.

[@TeachingTech]

Glad to hear everything is going well. Any pics of trebuchets? I don't think I'll ever get a closed source printer agan based on this experience.

[@TheMrByrom]

You haven't looked at my channel yet? It is 8 years old so I have about 150 videos. Here are some links... Trebuchet project: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpeYeXmqocemla8 Printing a human heart in TPU: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZ6ciXh-lK91iK8

[@TeachingTech]

Two very cool videos. The support removal on the heart looked very character building.

[@mionez_lessij]

I dont even know how to begin. You got a printer, with closed ecosystem and you moaning about lack of possibility to change reprap style parameters? Come on. ABS not warping on other machines? Good one. Connector could be secured better, it has been fixed in M200 Plus but for now, you can print cover for small connector. I see that your printer has old (2013-2014) logo yet it still printing repeatable, thats one of the thing you are paying for. Anyway, it has been around 4 years since that model started its first job, think about replacing FAN and check latest Z-SUITE, it has Support Legacy option if you complaining about support glued to print. It's Plug&Play printer for people who dont want to spent whole day to calibrate and prepare environment to get a 1 of 10 proper Marvin print. last but not least: - Try using ABS Juice, it makes wonders. - DO NOT CLEAN PERFORATED PLATE, AT ALL. It helps with adhesion. - Get yourself a Hepa cover, could be home-made, it also helps a lot with adhesion. peace.

[@TeachingTech]

Hi Marcin, thanks for the detailed post. We are going to disagree with each other but I welcome a mature debate. Some points: -We got the printers for free from our laser printer contractor. We would not have chosen to spend money on these. - I don't remember saying other machines don't warp with ABS, just that this was no better despite the perforated bed. -Connector is poor and still for sale on the m200. As you say this is meant to be a plug and play solution. A user shouldn't have to rely on printing a cover to solve the problem. - The printers are NOT printing reliably or repeatably. This is the whole point of the video. They never have, we've thrown plenty of time and money at them with nozzles and build platforms, and they are still poor. - Latest z suite was pictured in the video. The ability to control support interface and temperatures has been a problem for years. These updates are welcome but woefully late. - As I repeatedly say I'm the video, maintenance and calibration is something needed far more on this printer than others worth far less. - I have managed three of these for three and a half years. I doubt there will be a more thorough review on KZbin. These printers are not plug and play and they do not print reliably. - Zortrax state the bed must be removed and cleaned in their maintenance guide. They say 300 hours but that is hugely optimistic. - HEPA cover is just more added cost and complexity in what is meant to be a plug and play machine.

[@mionez_lessij]

First of all, you got fully custom-modded printer (steel nozzle, strange coating around Hotend and z-temp stuff all around). You can't expect that printer is going to work perfectly while you using cheaper, non-original parts. Small connector is delicate but they've learned their way and M200 Plus hasn't got that problem anymore. To be honest, I've taken a hundreds of prints out of my M200 and I NEVER hit that small connector, literally - never. So covering connector isn't necessery, just make sure you are doing it properly. If you got a problems with support glued to print I suggest you replacing bottom extruder fan, maybe along with thermocouple. I bet that you haven't contacted support even once. On 2:59 of your video, it cleary looks like heating issues. On the very same moment, we can see that the platform isnt even screwed, how can you expect its gonna work properly with unscrewed plate and without proper calibration? If you dont want to use their calibration method from FW, use business card. In terms of platform - its recommended to take it off, to CLEAR HEATBED BENEATH IT. There is absolutely no need to clear holes. People around the world got printers running from Kickstarter campaing, 10k hours without major problems. 3Dhubs states that we are one of the best Plug&Play printer on the market, year after year. tldr ; I'm pretty sure that your problems coming from using 3rd party mods and heating issues. I suggest you contacting support, perform a full maintenance, get rid of that mods and prepare some ABS Juice - then you can fairly judge the printer once again. cheers

[@TeachingTech]

Hi Marcin, once again I completely disagree with you. The printer is not completely modified, it is very close to stock. These mods were not made at start, but after a couple of years of troubled printing. I have followed the maintenance guides in the past, I have done everything to the letter. It is true that I've never contacted support, but I've never contacted support for any of the many 3d printers I've been responsible for. I'm in a good position to make fair comparisons and this printer just doesn't perform well enough for the price. If you are pleased with yours then I am glad, but there is enough people frustrated by shortcomings that a company like z temp can exist to provide 3rd party solutions.

[@bushokrockvideos]

Just do you know: Marcin Lozowski, who defends the M200 rather fiercely in his answers to you, is a Product Development Analyst at Zortrax… That’s why he knew you never contacted support

[@luckgrip252]

Would love to have an update on this printer in year 2024. I myself have the M200 Plus (aready 4 years of printing with it) on which I did a couple of small tweaks. Personally I haven't quite like the Z-Suite application because of the parameters that are lacking, for that I'm using PrusaSlicer (I personally prefer that slicer) and I convert gcode to zcodex2 via Zortrax supported "g2z" application to unlock the full control over parameters and to be able to fine-tune everything that Z-Suite is lacking, for example, Support gap top/bottom which is ridiculous that it's not added in Z-Suite advanced mode, that's the sole reason these supports have been a pain in the a$$ to remove, now with that extra control these supports are a charm.

[@LA3DPrinterRepair]

I’ve been getting a few of these machines in for repairs from the local architecture school, by far my biggest complaint is the proprietary slicer. The mechanicals are solid, I would see if it were possible to simply port marlin to the board like I did for the Einstart, which similarly requires a proprietary slicer; I can usually fix them pretty easily but if I had a donor unit it probably wouldn’t be a major effort to do a straight Marlin port rather than change it out for a RAMPs.

[@TeachingTech]

I have three main board so spare now. I think the LCD is not compatible with Marlin, a branch would be needed to add support. Thanks for sharing your insights.

[@LA3DPrinterRepair]

Teaching Tech well jeez, ship me a board and I’ll start a port, once all the connections are identified it’s done, I already figured out which MCU it was when I was bored at the bench one evening, I’ve got notes but IIRC it’s a STMF3 variant like you’d find on a drone. Reach out if you want to make it happen: la3dpr.com

[@josephwisniewski3673]

We've got an M200 and an M300 that have been nothing but trouble for years. Like you said, when they work, they can produce excellent results. I've been contemplating a brain transplant.

[@wayneshephard]

You just saved me a lot of money, cheers

[@Horizoncsafaris]

I really enjoy you open and frank approach to your videos. Makes them informative and down to earth. Looking forward to your build videos 👍👍

[@vansien]

Will look forward to seeing the conversion, should work out great.

[@luciandepold2561]

You clearly dont know what you are talking about. This is a great printer. You are using it like a noob.

[@kiloub]

idk why but your comment made me laugh so hard lol cheers

[@darren990]

thank god i seen your video you saved me loads of money for the future .it was my no1 printer on my wish list aswell.ill get a 200 quid printer wihout them problems

[@orosalsero]

I feel your pain, you should swap them out for a Creality CR-10S or the Pro version it's a lot cheaper and the build volume is a plus.

[@RVJimD]

Ya, sounds like a bit of frustration at that price. I like Frankendoodle, but this seems like an opportunity for us the viewers to come up with some alternate names?

[@TeachingTech]

That is a great idea, I will act on that.

[@KenSchirrmacher]

What do we do with a dated Zortrax? In 2023 there is no point in keeping it around with all the issues you so accurately detailed. (Only ever purchased 1 Zortrax and will never use again)

[@monologiorobotach557]

I use Z-suite 1 and supports and raft come off easy 99% of the time. I have been using it for 3+ years and I had very little of the problems you describe. Can you share the overall time printed? Also are you using them by yourself or are more people using them?

[@TeachingTech]

This is not an uncommon problem. See 3D printing Nerd video. Overall time printed, no idea sorry. Mainly me, sometimes others.

[@seafax]

Looking forward so seeing what's involved withe the brain and body transplants :-)

[@harryvrabec-lyons7087]

5 years later, im in the middle of doing a Klipper transplant (plus new toolhead, plus normal glass bed) and so far, all is going well, im curious to see what you did (if you did it)

[@TheFyllekajja]

The system is usable with any filament, and wwithout raft. It works with any slicer if you use g2z, but its a third party program that i think zortrax should pick up. the z-code is so unecesarry. that contact problem when levling i havent noticed. maby its an older problem or it gets worse when it starts to chip away. maby you started without cleaning it? i have 2 machines. one with a couple of thousands hours on it and one with a couple of hundreds. i agree that the perforated plate should be switchable for a flat one. that would help on some prints then you want a flat surface. It looks like an older version of the m200? but i can agree on some of the stuff. it is an expansive machine, and the z-pla is ridiculos expansive. as an abs machine i find it great.

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for the honest feedback. Most of the stuff you said wasn't available for the majority of the time we were using these printers.

[@Wodpuncher001]

I love my m200+ Printing abs and similar nonstop

[@MildlyCurious]

Great review thanks

[@timlucas143]

I have owned some of these printers a couple of M200, M300 and M300 Plus, they were decent when they first came out. But in todays world of 3D printing they are over priced trash, I will not be buying Zortrax again. The last one I purchased an M300 Plus was dead on arrival, I needed it for a project so stripped it down and re-wired it, which fixed it, during this process I found a number of poor Quality Control issues. They deserve to be sued for not delivering on WiFi in the M200.

[@mmmuck]

Curious if the extruder can be replaced with the diamond nozel

[@erikschiegg68]

It has to be said that Z-Suite Beta is all open now, you can print all kinds of filaments, non-Zortrax PLA included. Z-Suite also slices faster now. You can print with no raft and all and all. Just the SD card walking remains a real stone ager.

[@martino6172]

I want to Teching Tech - if you insulate hotend then you totally mess up with PID profile of heating/cooling then do not expect more than problems. Perforated plate works better if is dirty more filled holes then better adhesion at next prints, Z endstop modification which you done only cause warps because raft layers should be flat and smooth not this noodle style which you have now, the fist layer should be pushed into perforated plate so hard that stepper motor can loosing the steps at this point. Please compare same part with same support because you speaking about support structures comparing apples to oranges if you compare two exactly same parts then it is valid point. Your printer have 3.5years this is kickstarter batch if you are owner of few then why you showing the oldest one, you can contact with technical support anytime Zortrax is not VIP only paid support company you can open the ticket and even expect firmware\software changes due of it or to get some tips and tricks for current problems but after 3.5years the best is to shipping the printer for refurbish to local reseller or if you are located in EU to Zortrax HQ. And yes you confirm this printer is worth the amount because you ordered few and after 3.5years this machines after not expensive refurbish process can working next 3 years.

[@TeachingTech]

I appreciate your opinion but I generally disagree. We got three at the same time (not Kickstarter btw), so this one is comparable to the others. It was actually working better than the other two. Mods were fitted after about two years because of the problems mentioned. For example, heater performance was already slow. I agree PIDs will be affected but the problem was present before and after. You are correct about the raft layer not being pushed in properly, but this was just for the camera in this video and I promise our first layer and raft was always done as intended by Zortrax. It's true I didn't contact Zortrax support, but we received the printers through a 3rd party. I've used a lot of 3D printers over the years and these were less reliable than my budget Solidoodle 2 worth a fraction of the price.

[@noutram1000]

I can’t disagree with some of the downside comments here although my experience (perhaps with lower usage) has been OK. One of the first things I did was to make myself a hot shoe cover out of pourable rubber, the stl files for the 2 part mould are available online, this decreases warm up times but not much. I’m on my 2nd bed due to the connection failing, this part really does need to be looked at. I’ve had one or two pieces warp off the bed -larger pieces, so I doubt the full bed area is usable. I’ve been happy with mine.

[@rodsnyder6020]

The Frankendoodle XD Way to go!

[@Hoops-Senior]

I've had an M200 for about 7 years, but at least five of those it has sat idle. Recently, I have a new use for 3D printing and have spent a lot of time getting my machine to run 'right', but it's a nightmare... still! I'm at the point of deciding if any additional time/money spent on it is really just a sunk-cost fallacy. For example, I would like a smooth bed as I hate the perforated one... I could buy the IDE smooth bed that has the same z-sensing feature, or I could add a G10 / FR4 bed and install a Z-Sense from Z-Temp, but am I just pouring good money after bad, given that it is now an old and verrrry sloooow machine?

[@AllSentientFreeman]

I ordered the IDE smooth bed and its worth it. No more wasting material on those annoying rafts. Also I can print in PLA now, I changed the original hotend for the microswiss mod . That being said, the smooth bed behaves a lot like a glass bed, and has the same adhesion problems of similar beds. I use hair spray before every print and use the maximum brim and prints adhere nicely to the bed. When they cool down they just pop off by gently pulling on them. I feel like I just gave an extra life to this machine. Now if there was a flexible PEI bed for zortrax that would be a gamechanger.

[@abelb8455]

In fact I think some cons you mention are not drastic (visibility of the screen, low speed, etc.) as far as you are aware of them when you buy them. But aside the low reliability I cannot judge, ther is ONE HUGE PROBLEM: the printer is sold for an oprerating volume 200x200x180mm or, when using Z-ABS which is a godd material for small parts, the warping is such for a part 100x100x70mm that it is definately unusable. Zortrax mention in its maintenance manuel using an ABS juice and so on which is clearly a very uncomfortable and unriliable trick. Therefore I think 2000$ for just printing a few cm parts is much to expensive.

[@TeachingTech]

I agree. The warping was a huge ongoing problem for us. I don't see ABS juice as an appropriate solution on a premium printer.

[@bohdan90gun]

The cause of the extruder head impact on the board is defective solder 3 pin plug on the top of the board. The solder should be improved.

[@xaxuelx7987]

actually Zortrax should fix this and swap out the $2k machine for the improved model.

[@christianbay7614]

Hi, you kept talking about other more reliable printer in the same price range, care to share what those are? I have been using Zortrax M200 for the past 3 years as well and while I have not had as many issues as you, I have replaced the nozzle countless times and have 4 nozzles in acetone bath rotation and I have been forced to replaced the bed twice and are sucked with an old firmware, since the newer firmware breaks my printer and support was unable to fix it, even after we change all cables, bed, hotend, etc. So I wanted to upgrade this year and got a Prusa mk3 because everyone said how reliable it and still had good print quality. But since then I have done nothing that doing repairs, every 10-15 prints something on the Prusa fails and cable mangement and repairs are an utter nightmare compared to the Zortrax. So now i'm on the hunt again for a reliable 3D printer, with exceptional detail and are really looking for input.

[@TeachingTech]

My experience with two MK3s have been very good, sorry yours haven't been the same. I haven't uised one but Lulzbots have a good reputation as do Ultimakers. If you have the experience and confidence, starting with something mid range and then modding it can yield excellent results.

[@kamilkosi9101]

Ok, I also have Zortrax m200 and I would be happy already if you could show us how to make z-axis button stop so I can replace the bed with glass. Thank you!

[@TeachingTech]

It's an off the shelf kit. Very quick and easy to install, highly recommended: www.z-temp.co/z-sense-bed-height-sensor.html

[@tcreations8116]

Started a new job recently. We have two of these :(

[@josealcaraz1575]

...Pues yo tengo dos una M200 y otra M300 y siempre genial!

[@d6ctorNo]

parece que tiene manos de estómago. Yo tengo la mía desde hace aprox 3 años y nunca me ha dado un solo problema

[@jmtx.]

How many of these printers do you have? If there's another, how about doing an upgrade video swapping in a new control board (DuetWiFi, for example) ? That should fix many issues.

[@TeachingTech]

We have three. One is getting the Solidoodle electronics, the other two will likely receive the electronics from the CTC i3s featured in the i3 comparison video.

[@ThetaPower]

I was seriously considering a Zortrax at one time. Dodged that bullet. What printer have you seen that prints that nicely without the headaches? I print mostly ABS and ASA and some PETG on two Raise3D N2s but I cannot get a print as nice as what you show in the video despite heavy mods.

[@TeachingTech]

Hi John, I assume the latest generation of Zortrax printers are (hopefully) much better. I think my Prusa MK3 is my best printer in terms of quality, despite some hate in some parts of the community.

[@ThetaPower]

Very cool. I don't have a bias for or against. I just want a high quality print in ABS. I assume I will need to make a cover for it as I print some large ABS prints routinely.

[@TeachingTech]

Hmm abs. Something with a sealed chamber at least. A lot of people building IKEA lack cabinets. Prusa themselves had a really nice video guide a little while back.

[@grzegorzwalery1541]

Dude your Zortrax 200 is from the stone age. There's a new hotend, plate and software. You have this for real 3,5 years ? Woooow where were you on the past years in Amish Paradise ? :-):-)

[@TeachingTech]

You lose credibility if you can't write a comment in a mature way. Updates and improvements are welcome, and needed. For the record the significant software updates took years to come and the newest models still have the perforated bed.

[@xaxuelx7987]

I have 3 Zortrax M200s. I have had some issues with their printers... I regret the 2k price tag but they are plug and play when new. I have had the system destroy my build plate it was the fault of the printer not mine as you indicate in the video that the extruder leave a booger of molten filament on the bed and it messes up thus gouging the bed...which ruins the build plate requiring another which is not cheap. One of my machines will not feed the filament. I have contacted Zortrax...and they tell me to make sure every thing is connected properly and that the ribbon connectors are secure. This did not fix the problem with the printer and I informed them of this via email... I now have a $2k paperweight sitting around as i cannot get it to print. Zortrax responds to my emails but the trouble shooting takes days as they are across the Atlantic... Poland I believe. When these printers work they work well. I have printed some really kewl things with high quality on them, however, as you mentioned in the video the support structure is a bear to remove... I build custom models in 3d software so I make the parts a specific way to avoid the supports if at all possible. The support structures are the worst and the bed destruction is a close second, and the gear jams/malfunctions maybe tie for second as I still have not resolved the issue. The prints are nice but as I have seen with Wanhao clones I get the same print quality for 1/3 the price. I reckon now we can get about 3 prusa or Creality 10S for the same price and they print well. Zortrax has some competition now which should force the quality to increase and price to drop...

[@floflolapin]

I see that zortrax filaments are supposed to be used only with zortrax printers. Why is that? They are on sale now and I'm thinking about using them with my ender 3. What do you think about the quality of the filaments? Thanks

[@garybrunt2336]

HI you can porse the print just push and hold the front button in

[@janchix03]

It is possible to rebuild Prusa i3 printer to "look as" Ultimaker printer?

[@TeachingTech]

Definitely. Just need a donor frame as here. Technically I could transplant the electronics from either of my i3s into this.

[@myketheoneill]

can you do a refresh of this with the newer ones, m300 non dual extruder.

[@themightyparthos]

I had no idea that the printer was so bad, but then again I would NEVER buy proprietary garbage. Open source is the only way.

[@nathanielepps]

It's hard to overstate just how amazing the quality is on the M200 when it's working. I've had mine for 5+ years now, and while I can say I've experienced almost every single one of the headaches mentioned in this video, I still haven't had anything come close to being able to replicate the quality of these prints. I would be curious to see if they addressed and fixed the issues with their newer models. Overall, yeah, I kind of have to agree, these printers are a huge pain.

[@DeathZeroTolerance]

so it's a huge pain the ass, but so are all the other printers on the market, and this one produces the highest quality prints?

[@Fantastika]

@@DeathZeroTolerance the zortrax is a disproportionate pain in the ass, I cant think of another printer that's this annoying to use

[@76projects11]

interesting review. have had my zortrax m200 for approx 3 years and its been very reliable after making several mods such as z sense, z temp and hotend. The closed source issue is now pretty much fixed but there are some other things available such as 'Raftaway' a script written by someone i cant remember. and you can now use other materials with lots of adjustments. i was looking at replacing my m200 with an m200 plus but may have a look at others. is there anything else as reliable?

[@76projects11]

also ive seen people adding duet 3d boards to m200 as well.

[@srenmadsen3079]

I was almost on my way to buy this printer until i saw this review.. Im not so sure anymore.. what would you recommend? if it should be around this price tag? and just WORK

[@Irek_Poland]

I'm Polish and I should not write it. The printer is from Poland and its price is from space. It's better to print Ender for $ 200

[@Robothut]

Wow , had no idea the Zortrax M200 was so bad for the money. Can't wait to see the Frankendoodle !

[@ossme]

The little 2 reminded me of the Terminator T-800! X)

[@ZortraXTV]

Thank you for your review, Michael. We have just sent you an e-mail. Please, check your inbox. We hope to hear from you soon! Best regards, Zortrax Team

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for reaching out, I have replied.

[@jadlak]

Did either of you want to share the conversation? It could be useful to hear both sides.

[@joshuaogden7910]

It saddens me when this video comes near top of the top of the list for Zortrax videos. I have been working with M200 for 2 years and have achieved unparalleled levels of productivity and quality compared to other printers in its price point. It has saved us thousands in rapid prototyping and cannot rate the brand highly enough.

[@TeachingTech]

I'm glad you have had a great experience but my results are clearly different. I am an experienced 3D printer users and this has not stacked up well to printers worth much, much less.

[@joshuaogden7910]

@@TeachingTech We have used the M200 for hundreds of rapid prototypes and achieve a 95% print success rate. This number is why the M200 is exceptional value for money. Also requiring next to zero maintenance for a machine working 20 hours a day. That is besides the point that it has the best print quality than any other fdm printer regardless the cost. I think your criticisms do not justify the word 'hate' used in the title of your video and believe it is unfair and perhaps a cry for attention. Being that youtube is incredibly influential I urge you to change the title of your video.

[@mikeneron]

Only 2 grand. What a bargain! Lol :P

[@billjinx3587]

Perhaps you should of got the other Polish printer (3DGence One) I have put 6000 metres of filament though mine without a single issue, Although no longer available in Oz

[@escrabio123]

Do you know another 3D printer equally priced but faster and with no all these problems?

[@CausticSpace]

I cant complain as an orignal kickstarter supporter who got it for 900 USD instead of 2,000 😂

[@ossme]

LOL, another video ran sad music in the background while I was watching this one without me knowing, IT MATCHED PERFECTLY! This is the problem with closed systems I guess. Great video! :)

[@bloody789]

I would buy your Zortrax M200/300 printer if any one wants to get rid of them. if the mainboard is in good conditions. Contact me.

[@rabenklang7]

thank you! :)

[@mmmuck]

It's a bastard of a printer. So many errors and issues.

[@jamesrakestraw7125]

Want is a good 3D Print?

[@TeachingTech]

How much to spend?

[@jamesrakestraw7125]

How much you ask for?

[@neno7212]

why you bought 3 of them when you hate it? 😅

[@marshmallow1965]

Very unlucky. I can't relate at all, except for the long slicing time and heat up times. I've rarely had failures, and more than half the failures during printing it has had have been my own fault. My nozzle has never grinded into the perforated plate and I've never had a print detach from the raft. I've had mine for almost a year so maybe time will tell, but as of now its working perfectly.

[@TeachingTech]

All three of these machines have exhibited the same problems. Glad you have had a good experience.

[@ogreycloud]

some of his points are spot on, others are not. my autocalibration works perfectly especially if you are running latest firmware; but indeed this printer fails to print large ABS prints without warping as they were claiming early on. another thing is that the hot end is indeed problematic and they even suggest using dedicated hot ends for PLA as an example. at its time of launch this printer offered alot since since it allowed reliable prints with little to no tweaking. but right now I might go for Prusa I3 MK3

[@pabloessgalhardo5317]

for that money you have the Lulzbots

[@eddieyan5529]

Also if you buy this printer in America the US, be aware that Zortrax will not honor it's distributor warranty. I was told to contact a lawyer by the Zortrax representative.

[@TeachingTech]

Ouch! What broke on the printer?

[@ZortraXTV]

Hello, Eddie. Please, check your e-mail inbox. We've sent you a message regarding the issue you've been discussing with one of our agents.

[@whatyoudo9773]

quite a few of your complaints are only reasonable to people who like messing with printers and the programs, your missing the point, the Zortrax does great with its own system and you need to be gentle with some of the parts, its a little slow, so what, find something to do, dont stare at your printer.

[@TeachingTech]

The intention was to keep them absolutely standard but they just haven't been reliable. If you look at their maintenance schedule and associated costs, they have a profitable business model where people will continue to shell out money on items not considered consumables on other machines.

[@whatyoudo9773]

well i would not be too surprised to find they have that business model, hard to buy groceries with good intentions, but mine has been solid, I totally agree the little plug at back of build plate is terrible design but i am very careful of it. I just say that your opinion is from a guy with 3d printer all around the shop to compare too, they are all a bit different, good and bad but i like the Zortrax so far. @@TeachingTech

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for sharing, I appreciate the calm conversation we are having. I'm glad yours is working well. I've since updated this to open source completely bents and it's printing well too.

[@whatyoudo9773]

Well i don't know what open source and bents really is, thats why i laid down the cash for the M200, I want it to do the tech stuff not me, just print the parts, I dont want to mess with the code. Yours looks older maybe they fixed the issues on mine, they are making lots of machines. Yeah dont worry Im calm. ;]. @@TeachingTech

[@Macek_7]

Thanks for review, you just save me money for M300, which is same like this M200 only bigger.

[@juliusvalentinas]

This is from country poland, post soviet country. What do you expect. People in poland like yo cheat and make crap quality for inflated prices, post soviet mentality. Prices are crazy now this was 300 eur in kickstarter

[@seriousCADninja]

Wow i did know that it ducked so much this machine...

[@GKUZYK1]

Great video really glad I watched this to stay away from that printer.

[@lucmaximilien5630]

More than 2000 hours and never had a problem: The problem is you .

[@LeonardoGambato]

Luc Maximilien fanboy

[@lucmaximilien5630]

@@LeonardoGambato Just facts....

[@avejst]

Thanks for sharing :-)

[@dziabi3]

M300 👎🏻Ender 3 👍🏻