Why I'm Ditching the Metabones Speedbooster for Micro 4/3

[@jdavidmusic]

For me.. The speedbooster is a tool. Before anything, it doubles your lens inventory by reducing the 2x crop down a good deal, so you get two focal lengths from each lens. One with, and one without. Then you have the extra stop of light.. I know, I know... some can get by without that.. but take into consideration most glass is soft at it's lowest aperture... but since a speed booster give you an extra stop... you can stop down a step, have the same light as you did without the speedbooster... but get a stop sharper image. Then, you have something like the $450 Metabones FD-M43 Speedbooster that opens you up to a HUGE selection of relatively inexpensive, quality glass... all of which have a very beautiful Canon look. Lastly, it is likely at some point a change away from M43 will be desired, maybe not today, maybe not next year.. but eventually.... and M43 glass just isn't going to convert. So the speedbooster isn't something you take or leave... it's a valuable tool in your bag to provide flexibility and features to enhance your creative ability.

[@JohnHarvey]

Honestly though if your pairing FD F1.4 lenses with a speedbooster your getting about the same F stop as some of the M4/3 F.95 lenses. Im assuming your using all manual focus here anyways so if you take something like the SLR magic T0.95 cine lenses your actually getting more light incoming to the sensor than using bigger, heavier adapted F1.4 FD lenses and you dont have to worry about the speedbooster. Of course I do actually agree with you that having a set of EFs or FDs laying around for better adaptability with other cameras is a huge advantage but you have to balance that with the fact they will be bigger and heavier to tote around. If your doing professional studio stuff not a big deal but if your running and gunning all day carrying a lot of gear it can really get exhausting.

[@jdavidmusic]

@@JohnHarvey For sure... if auto focus for run and gun work (Weddings, etc) is your number one need... the FD option isn't for you. Yet with a EF-M43 Speedbooster... all those lenses you DO need autofocus with are now available in two focal lengths. For example.. Same price lens as SLR Magic: Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC HSM Art Lens for Canon EF... on a Speedbooster you get 42mm and 60mm equivalent primes.. . taking up one space in you bag. Or if on a budget the Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM Lens gives you about the same as a 35 and a 50... at 2.0 and 2.8. Again, it's just a tool to add flexibility. For someone like you.. probably it is best to use native M43 glass... but still.. having an FD-M43 speedbooster and picking up some affordable FD glass for projects you don;t need run and gun? Super flexible.

[@JohnHarvey]

@@jdavidmusic you have a good point there and I can't argue with that. I was planning on the exact same thing when I had the rokinon cine lenses so I bought a simple no glass adapter to extend the focal length but I noticed a significant drop in quality without the speed booster so I never actually did it. I'm sure that sigma 30mm f1.4 for apsc would work great for that application. I almost bought that lens for a really good price too.

[@TheGazmondo]

Superb appraisal of the issues with the speed booster and MFT generally.

[@jimveybe7689]

Thank you for the review. None of the objections here affect what I do in video, so I will continue to use the XL.

[@billy9506]

With regards to the autofocus, often you have to adjust the speed boosters optics to fine tune AF. This usually isn't a big job. It just involves screwing/unscrewing the optics half a turn either way.

[@Bytesmiths]

I use focal reducers with Olympus OM Zuiko glass, which is not auto-focus, and which is really tiny and lightweight. So John's reasons for not using a focal reducer don't apply.

[@gearbow]

Great point about using a speed booster protecting the sensor!

[@mackjopah8894]

Thank you, im not buying an adapter, im going MFT.. This is my first camera, I ordered a gimbal as well, and I believe this applies perfectly to the Blackmagic pocket 4k as well...subbed too

[@LuigiHilaire]

any update

[@yambeatz3318]

As a bmpcc 4k owner with a speed booster, let me tell you that it's a game changer. The only two complaints this guy had is that it kills autofocus and makes your setup heavier. Let's just put this out there, all bmpcc auto focus systems are BOOTY. If you want auto focus, DO NOT BUY THIS CAMERA. Maybe buy a nice sony or canon c70 or something. Any real cinematographer doesn't use auto focus anyway imo, so I say pull your own focus or get a 1st AC and get the adapter. Don't buy a bmpcc 4k if you want to be a youtuber. It doesn't make sense.

[@JohnHarvey]

Nothing wrong with using a speed booster and heavier manual focus lenses. Not complaining about that. It was simply a Personal choice to go a different direction. Not bashing anyone out there that does that since I did the same for years and loved it!

[@Mraz75]

Thank you.. i’m also considering to get speedbooster for myself but decided to hold that thought. After i went to a camera shop and looked at those fulframe Canon, Sigma and Nikon lenses, i just have a second thought about how small the MFT lenses. I guess i just have to settle down with Sigma prime MFT and Lumix lenses. I have a GH5ii camera. Glad to watch this video and hear about your thoughts about not using speedbooster. I don’t any FF lenses. Thus it is not practical for me. Thank you.

[@Erbemusic]

Hey John, i totally agree. The G9 with the 16mm Sigma is one of the perfect combinations. No need to hype the booster cause i´ve got the same results with the sigma. Quick and good focus for stills and videos.

[@leomaverick]

The size and weight of m43 is fantastic... I came from Ursa mini... I don't want to go full frame

[@prabhakarrao4922]

You raise some very interesting points on both sides. Thank you

[@GeorgeStar]

I think a much better option is a 4/3 > m4/3 adapter. You have access to a lot of excellent, cheap old 4/3 lenses and focusing is good.

[@SMGJohn]

(24-70mm) 30-90mm f1.8 is too hard to pass up not to use a speedbooster

[@richarddutchholland4780]

Great video John..... I use an Olympus EM5 mkii and the Metabones speed booster is allow me to use the amazing Olympus OM lenses out there and increases speed and image sharpening, just love using older manual focusing lenses... plus they are cheap

[@dedclownsRfunny]

I love my EM5II and adore the Om Zuiko 50f1.8 so I cant wait to get one of these

[@nicokremers7150]

@Richard... Use your OM Zuiko lenses on a Sony A7 mark1. You will love it. It is the closest to a digital “OM1”.

[@richarddutchholland4780]

@@nicokremers7150 hey..... I’m now rocking a Sony a7iii but thinking of going back to Olympus and a EM1 mkiii. Love the Sony but really good lenses are expensive and big. I’m just using the Sigma 24-70f2.8 at the mo. If I do go back to Olympus it’s just the 24-100f4 and my vintage lenses

[@GatorDriverAssist]

I am with you regarding the 16 and 30mm F1.4 sigma MFT lenses. I have both and they are my favourite lenses . The reason I might be going the other way is lens changing time and hassle when you have a Cini Rig with Mat box etc. I am hopping to planning to buy the sigma 18-35 sigma with Metabones Ultra 0.71 Speed booster to overcome this issue. I definitely agree with you on that people need to be more open minded on MFT.I have no problems with Bokeh ( I think some people go way overboard on this issue BTW), no problems with light. I am wondering wether to keep my Primes just in case now lol.

[@PhillipRPeck]

There is also a Metabones Speedbooster that adapts old Canon FD lenses, which are significantly smaller and cheaper. Also, you mention several times that the Speedbooster is for adapting full frame lenses, which isn't necessarily the case. The Sigma 18-35 and 50-100 are aps-c lenses and the XL Speedbooster will vignette on the wide end of those lenses. Last point, the determining factor for size and weight for zoom lenses tends to be their max aperture which is why those Sigmas (f/1.8) are so big and heavy. And why the Leica 10-25 f/1.7 you briefly mentioned is similar in size to the Sigma 18-35. It doesn't really have to do with the camera system or sensor size. Anyway, enjoyed the video!

[@JohnHarvey]

I actually have the sigma 18-35 and used it with the speedbooster so I knew that. I probably didn't say that quite right in the video. I looked into Canon FD pretty seriously but just never went that route. When I was talking about adding extra weight I meant that the speedbooster itself is adding 160 grams. Plus when you adapt that big glass your not using the full image circle so your whole setup will be larger than it needs to be.

[@PhillipRPeck]

@@JohnHarvey hey, I wasnt trying to prove a point by mentioning the FD lenses. Just additional info for people who might not know about that option. You provide a lot of great info and insight in this video

[@JohnHarvey]

@@PhillipRPeck thank you. I was commenting back earlier while trying to do something else so I probably wasn't too focused lol. Sorry if it came off a bit short. I appreciate the feedback. Thank you.

[@SoundFaithChannel]

Very informative. Thank you for making it a positive look on the speed booster at the same time explaining why you don't want to use it anymore.

[@LensofWyant]

Best ad for a speedbooster

[@rolandodiaz6273]

You just saved me $700. Thanks!!

[@TheRealRichardWong]

KZbinv suddenly recommend this video to me and i watched. Nice video John!

[@JohnHarvey]

Thanks Richard!

[@CallMeChato]

Even with Sony’s god camera, A7sIII, I’m not switching. The weight, size of stuff and usability are deal breakers. I’m loving V-log. I would be interested in your auto focus settings. I can’t stop the camera from background pulsing which this video does not seem to do. Is the trick the Sigma 16? The G9 actually works fine while flinging it around walking and vlogging but pulses locked off. Thanks.

[@JohnHarvey]

I do typically lock focus on shots like this. It was just a test of the AF to show as an example for the video. I have some other moving autofocus tests on the channel as well.

[@JohnHarvey]

@IM HO I'm sure it's related to money. They probably don't want to spend time of money on R&D to redo the AF to include phase detect. Not like they can just slap on a phase detect sensor and call it a day. It took like 10 years for sony to get where they are today with their amazing AF. Even if they did release a GH6 with phase detect it would probably be 2-4 generations of cameras before you even notice am advantage. Hopefully they are working on this now and just waiting to make it decent. I agree I really wish panasonic had Sony's AF because it truly would dominate the market.

[@Ben-ry1py]

I just bought a BMPCC the original, and I've been questioning why everyone seems to want to put a speed-booster on it immediately. I've been enjoying the pancake lens I got it with. Thanks for the thoughtful video. It's nice to hear a different perspective.

[@JohnHarvey]

Appreciate it 👍 I'll probably get some hate for this but oh well haha

[@A1Bokeh]

how are you liking that camera?

[@Ben-ry1py]

@@A1Bokeh I wanted to learn how to color grade and not to compromise on image quality, but didn't want to spring for a much more expensive camera. For my needs, I really like it, I have a lot more to learn, but I know the camera is doing it's job, now I need to learn how to bring the colors out of the image proficiently. I got the camera a cage and lense for $418, and just got an ak2000 gimbal for $235 off eBay. Sd cards are hard to find for it, it fills up those cards quickly, and the original batteries don't last very long, but I'm happy I bought mine. I recommend it only for people who want to learn to work with raw and are willing to work around the limitations to get the image offered. Oh, and the LCD screen is too damn dim for bright outdoor work. I still need to get a screen. Cheers

[@nimkal]

This was actually very, very informative. Thank you John! I learned so much today and this helps me in my decision. I was debating buying a speedbooster to use a Canon EF 28-105mm lens we had with full frame image on my E-M5 Mark II, but it does not sound worth it as it's definitely not perfect and there's a few factors in there that is a deal breaker for me. I'll just invest in a good prime lens as I also prefer having the best image quality in all light settings. Cheers and subbed.

[@maximilianrudy8231]

sorry to be off topic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any help you can offer me!

[@kendallmatthias9931]

@Maximilian Rudy instablaster =)

[@maximilianrudy8231]

@Kendall Matthias thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im trying it out atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@maximilianrudy8231]

@Kendall Matthias It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D Thank you so much you saved my account :D

[@kendallmatthias9931]

@Maximilian Rudy You are welcome xD

[@gearbow]

My understanding was not only to you have to 2 x the field of view you also have to 2 x the F Stop number when using micro 4/3?

[@3rdGorilla]

Good video I am ditching mine soon as well. A lot of great mft lenses to choose from

[@jamesjun6393]

Thank you for the info.

[@Loftikaz]

Iam all MFT lenses "glass" they're amazing quality and size, weight, I travel a lot so I prefer the extra weight to be batteries. There's also better tech now than the old days like dual ISOs so things don't have to be huge. The only downside is small lenses make you look small with some clients you know what I mean

[@JohnHarvey]

Yeah I agree. I think that's why you see so many videographers with these unnecessarily large rig add-ons to make mirrorless cameras look larger.

[@Cardboard_Box_Zombie]

Thanks for the video, good info!

[@JaiJai177]

Since this video, Sirui dropped theur anamorphic. I think 2 or 3 of those are all any one would need other than a few select primes

[@MrBighairyass]

I don't understand most people. Panasonic made the Micro 4/3rds System so people could get a great image with a small rig. Yet, everyone runs out to get a big clunky full frame system. I have seen enough footage to know that there is not much difference (if any) in image quality between the two systems.

[@JohnHarvey]

Agree.

[@voltvisuals]

Not about image quality tho it's about the low light performance

[@minglam5145]

To counter the low light situation Just use flash. This is what I do for my G9 and Pen F. This what a flash is made for.

[@bryanbarajasBB]

I use a canon eosm with a sigma 18-35, with metabones for my first time...it's fun!!!

[@StirfriedGerman]

Getting the G9 Friday, I'll stick with my Viltrox and 18-35 initially but you have a very valid point, especially size and weight. Friday ... Friday ... Friday 😂

[@JohnHarvey]

If you don't mind locking off focus or pulling focus that is a wonderful lens setup. No reason to switch. I just didn't want to carry the extra weight anymore

[@StirfriedGerman]

@@JohnHarvey Same here, the weight is definitely a setback ...

Yo compre el adaptador Viltrox hace poco, no tengo lentes Canon, pero creo que en algunos momentos puedo necesitarlo. La verdad acabo de entrar en el mundo M43 y ninguno de mis lentes tiene resistencia al polvo o el agua. Espero sacar lo mejor del sistema y me deje llevar por las recomendaciones, mi siguiente compra sería el Sigma 18-35, pero creo que tienes razón. Tener los lentes nativos y la protección contra salpicaduras sería lo mejor. Gracias por la información.

[@creativevisiongaming]

I want to get as many sensor sizes as I can. Micro 4/3, Medium Format and I already have APSC and Full Frame for different uses.

[@leomaverick]

I'm using only prime Olympus pro lenses and autofocus with Olympus OMD EM-1 Mark III... I don't think I need speed booster

[@ThomasPrettyman01]

I think it's a tool like any other. Like it's good to have a speedbooster with good FF Glass if you can afford it, because you might run into an issue where you're like dang I wish I had that right now.

[@jamesloop]

Super helpful video! I’m just getting into wildlife videography, bought my first camera the gh6, and on the fence between canon ef 100-400 4.5-5.6 with .71 metabones SB, or the Lumix 100-400 4.0-6.3 native tele. Since I’ll be shooting birds and insects in mornings and evenings, which would you recommend?

[@JohnHarvey]

100% would go with the native lens in this scenario. With the metabones autofocus will be quite bad and also if your shooting birds and insects shallow depth of field will not be on your top priority list so no reason to go with a big ole canon lens. You will be more effective with the native lens that gets a longer reach anyways.

[@jamesloop]

@@JohnHarvey thank you so much! Camera arrives today, super excited to start shouting.

[@azvasamusic7095]

Hi, Great Vid! couple weird things I wonder about..Is there any reason theres no MFT to sony E mount? Like there is every other combo but this one... Wanted to use my Sony E lens on this new MFT camera and expand my options for lenses... Also is there such thing as the opposite of a speedbooster? Like a teleconverter I guess? Lets say I want to use my MFT lenses on my Sony APS-C sized sensor (sony A6500) This setup is the "wrong way" around for a speedbooster to do any good right?(hence needing the opposite effect) With just a simple adapter the lens housing would show or heavy vignetting would occur of course since the sensor size is smaller on MFT than APS-c... Eh any input is appreciated Links to products to check out are nice too :) Again great insight in the vid! ty

[@AlphaCentauri24]

I had similar question. Here is the relevant reply from DPreview forum by one if uts users "IbrahimO". Sony e-mount has a 18mm flange focal distance while M4/3 have a 19.24mm flange focal distance. It should be theoretically possible to use M4/3 lenses on NEX bodies, but using NEX lenses on M4/3 is impossible. Basically, you can't make an adapter that shortens the flange focal distance. Same reason you can use a nikon lens on canon DSLRs but can't use canon lenses on nikon bodies. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance

[@oceansidesounddesign8770]

Do you ship to Australia? I'll buy it! = ) Joking aside really appreciate the thoughts. That sigma 16mm + GH5 + Ronin SC has been invaluable for me. Great to get the auto focus and roll.

[@mercurygalaxii]

I am Leica lumix guy and my G9 only use native pana lens to work out the best of G9^^

[@jettysplash]

Hi John. I just found your video. Great info; thank you, I just subscribed. I have a G9 with the Leica 100-400 lens, brand new to professional grade photography equipment, and I am about a solid 1/2 year into photography and video with my new G9, and still learning how it works with all its features. I am having a ton of fun and getting great birding and wildlife shots. I would like to increase my reach and sharpness for birding photography of birds. It's rare I get very close to birds and I would not mind benefiting with a faster shutter speed that comes from having a sharper focus of light, along with greater reach and cropping ability. Most of my shots are manual focus. Will the speed booster with a rented Canon full frame 600mm lens give me what I am looking for? Also, would you recommend Adobe Lightroom over free editors? I am suspicious if some of what I am looking to improve about my work will come with more practice and better editing skills and tools. Thanks John!

[@JohnHarvey]

I think the speedbooster with a massive Canon lens will help give you a stop faster shutter speed HOWEVER if you rely on autofocus then then it'll be really painful for you. Another thing to consider is that if you use a native lens that has dual IS you will get better stabilization. I will admit I'm not a pro PHOTOGRAPHER. I'm much more into the video side. I have a lot of videos about the G9 and video making. Not so much when it comes to photography though.

[@ericsomer2821]

Ping me if you have an Oly Om to m.4.3 you are unloading. I appreciate John's assessment but if I can get a metabones on the cheap it would be fun to play with.

[@ThaexakaMavro]

1.3 is f2.6 on mft you can buy a f.095 or f1.1 and get even better light

[@matthewdaniels7691]

The smaller sensors still have more noise even in the same exposure.

[@JohnHarvey]

Yes if it's at the same exposure. Increase the aperture of the lens and decrease the ISO and you can get litterally the same noise levels when shooting in low light.

[@voltvisuals]

Now that the s5 has been announced, I'm debating the s5 instead of getting a g9 and a speedbooster. Pretty pricey for a first timer. I feel like getting the g9 for now and maybe the metabones in the future. I'm just a bit annoyed how pricey the m43 glass is, everyone makes it sound good but when you look at the prices some ef full frame lens are cheaper 😂

[@JohnHarvey]

Yeah it's tough I know but if you think M4/3 glass is expensive then don't even bother looking at leica L mount lenses. If I had no camera gear already I have to admit I'd really be leaning towards the S5 HOWEVER the G9 is incredible and you really can't go wrong with it. You don't need the speed booster for low light. I now have the sigma 16, 30 and 56mm primes and they do great in low light along with having great autofocus and tack sharp. I just posted a video of those lenses at night in key west. Of course the S5 is much much better in low light than the G9 but the G9 has a better EVF, better IBIS and doesn't have a crop in 4k 60fps. I won't say one is clearly better than the other since it really depends on your needs. Maybe GH6 will come out soon destroying both.

[@professionalpotato4764]

If you need equivalent bokeh on m43, it's definitely the more expensive system. Depends on what videos you make. FF primes are usually more cost effective since they don't need the same sharpness and resolving power of m43 or crop sensor lenses. I think for more narrative films, you don't need crazy bokeh, cos it's important to have context. But for photography, having a fast lens just turns even a dumpster into the best backdrop.

[@voltvisuals]

@@professionalpotato4764 yea more for the lowlight abilities. I'm still deciding which native lens to get for my first time. Sigma 16mm looks pretty good as its fast, xan be used in a talking head situation and for full Videography I can get a sence of how I like (or probably don't like) the focus by wire system. Just looking to get a good autofocus lens for something versitle and good enough for autofocus and then manual focus lens will be a future purchase if I really hate the focus by wire system

[@professionalpotato4764]

@@voltvisuals Yeah, I'm thinking of buying the G9 too and the 16 f/1.4 is probably the first lens I'll pickup. Agree on the focus by wire system. I hate it with a passion. And I'm surprised to this date Panasonic hasn't added linear focus via firmware.

[@voltvisuals]

@@professionalpotato4764 yea like im interested in some of the Olympus manual overdrive lenses , but they are bloody expensive, might just get a starter autofocus lens and then go from there into full frame full manual glass. Just wish the sigma 16mm was wider and more versatile because its a pretty veristile lens but vlogging is gonna be something it isn't great at, (which vlogging and talking head would be the reason I want something with autofocus.)

[@WedisemaetAntonios]

good stuff thanks! what kind of lav mic are you using? is it boya?

[@properginko]

Hi; I saw your videos. you made many nice shots. I love Vietnam too :) What lense did you use for this specific video? It has a great bokeh. Also I was thinking of selling all my Full Frame lenses and the speedboster and getting the Leica 42.5 f1.2 and the Leica 10-25 f1.7 but they are very expensive and not compatible with the S1H and to match cameras it's best also have same lenses. Leica glass is the best for me. It's the closest to Panavision, the Real Big Cinema.

[@GirishJ]

He says at 6.53

[@telebob]

What I like best about this vid is the sound... what mic are you using?

[@JohnHarvey]

Boya BY - M1

[@rockjano]

Great video Thank You

[@ABUSHfan]

Solid video. You got a sub from me. I'm all about micro four thirds as well

[@freejay3]

You tried Voigtlander Mitakons?

[@spi-fi_media]

You may have helped me dodge a bullet here, one I’ve been worried about for a few months since moving from full frame to a GH5! Is the Sigma 16mm still using a Metabones adapter? What’s the current setup?

[@Makta972]

The sigma 16mm is a native m43 lens so you don't need a speedbooster

[@spi-fi_media]

Makta972 ah yes. I’ve been tempted by that one, but it’s not an Art lens, which my studio has been moving to. Do you think it’ll be easy to colour match?

[@ggeorge7375]

In your Dec 4, 2018 video you said the Speed Booster did not add to CA and the images were more sharp with it's use. Was that video in error, did more use of the Speed Booster produce different results or did I miss something? This video seems to be the opposite of that one. I'm inexperienced with no rude intent, just want to clarify.

[@JohnHarvey]

No offence taken. This is a great question and I totally understand why your asking. To clarify I say the speedbooster REDUCES CA I am talking about using the SAME LENS without the speedbooster and then adding it with the speedbooster. For example using a canon ef lens on the panasonic with a non boosted adapter and then adding the same lens on with a speedbooster. The speedboosted lens will be sharper and have less CA. Now when I say in this video that the speedbooster ads some CA or distortion its compared to NATIVE M4/3 lenses which are specifically designed for the smaller sensor and have a much higher quality and tolerance compared to lenses made for larger sensors. Does that make sense? Of course it all depends on the specific lenses. Its a very general statement but hopefully you get the idea.

[@ggeorge7375]

@@JohnHarvey I get the idea. Thank you for the explanation and responding to my comment on an older video, much respect to you! I wish you all the best in 2021!

[@A1Bokeh]

would you get the native rokinon lenses ?

[@JohnHarvey]

No. Definitely not. These lenses were designed for full frame so you'd only get 1/4 of the resolving power of that lense. Also they are still just as heavy. The speedbooster compresses the image so it's sharper and has less chromatic aberration.

[@AlexRossiharmonica]

ca i use it with the same lens that com ewith my G7 ??? or I have to use another lens

[@PhilippeOrlando]

Also, why not adapt full frame lenses without a speedbooster with just a dumb adaptor? That way you actually crop the lens by two and you keep the best of the older full frame lense, you only use the center of the lens. I used to to use a speedbooster and one day I picked up a 20 bucks adapter and mounted my old Nikkor 50 AIS 1.4 and 28 mm 2.8 on it and WOW! The Nikkor 24mm 2.8 becomes a full manual 48 with a lot of character. Actually because the dumb adaptor takes the lens further away from the sensor you don't really have a crop of 2. I'd say it's close to 1.8.

[@JohnHarvey]

You definitely can. I also have a $20 dumb adapter but the sharpness and CA is worse than when using with the speedbooster. It works well with really really good glass but it also depends on what your going for.

[@PhilippeOrlando]

@@JohnHarvey You did notice that CA was worse with the adaptor than with the speedbooster? That's weird. It is the speedbooster that introduce one more piece of glass, after all, so that should actually introduce more artifacts. As for the difference in sharpness, I'm not sure I understand why? The only drawback I've noticed with the dumb adaptor is that it's harder to focus, so you really have to be careful, but cams have great peaking these days.

[@JohnHarvey]

@@PhilippeOrlando check out this video. It should help with some tests. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f53beaqCeLZspNE

[@PhilippeOrlando]

@@JohnHarvey Thanks! I did go see that other video and yes I do see the purple CA. I'll check that with my lenses tomorrow. Now it's "harder" to focus with a dumb adaptor. I imagine you did use focus peaking and you nailed the focus perfectly with the dumb adaptor? If you had to theorize why CA happens with a dumb adaptor, what would you say? I don't understand why it happens. With that dumb adaptor only the center of the lens, which is supposed to be better is used, I don't understand why it'd be less sharp and with CA. If anybody has any idea?

[@MrFirstdance2000]

Tell me you've purchased the Sigma 56 by now? :)

[@JohnHarvey]

I've had it for a while

[@StirfriedGerman]

How far were you sitting from the camera in this shot?

[@JohnHarvey]

3-4 feet I think. Not quite close enough to touch the camera without moving but I do have short arms lol.

[@StirfriedGerman]

@@JohnHarvey Lol, thank you, that means I could use the same lens for my talking head, I have just about that much clearance anf gorilla arms xD.

[@Erbemusic]

@@StirfriedGerman das 16mm hat ca. eine Selfportrait/Vlog-Range von 60cm bis 1,20 Meter. In dem Bereich ist das Gesicht in einer guten Entfernung.

[@StirfriedGerman]

@@Erbemusic Danke Dir !

[@androidgameplays4every13]

Don't you feel bad knowing that you can't obtain a full frame deep depth of field? that's the only reason that keeps me hesitating about going exclusively in MFT mode.

[@JohnHarvey]

No not bad at all. The one thing that still bothers me about MFT is low light. I'm happy with the "look" and depth of field. I just want better low light and better autofocus.

[@androidgameplays4every13]

@@JohnHarvey How can I achieve a FF-ish DoF? I really love MFT but when I see those FF blurry backgrounds I feel kind of frustrated, thank you!

[@JohnHarvey]

@@androidgameplays4every13 If your worried about not getting enough DOF then id say just go Full Frame. You can get a full frame look on MFT by just getting faster lenses. F1.4 primes can give you a nice shallow depth of field and there are even some nice F0.95 lenses out there but no autofocus. Currently you can get the look of a full frame camera using an F1.8 lense right now but if your wanting the F1.4 look it would be impossible unless you used a speed booster which in my opinion defeats the purpose of MFT.

[@ChuckSeayII]

Kind of echoing what Richard said, we all know that MFT cameras have a 2x crop factor! But, what is rarely talked about if ever, is the proper way to do the conversion. There is an upside if you have a Speed Booster that is x.71! If you have a Panasonic lens such as the 12-35 F2.8 you really have a 24-70 F5.6! We all know this! BUT, if you have a, let's say a canon 50mm F1.4 lens on an ultra .71 speed booster(Metabones or Viltrox) doesn't matter, both of them are good, that Canon is now a 71mm but with an F-stop of 1.0! With a .71 Speedbooster, you multiply the Focal length but divide the F-stop by a factor of 1.42! I have an old Tokina 11-16mm F2.8 and an old Sigma 20mm F1.8 and I never used them on my old Canon 7D! The image on both of those just didn't do it for me and I tried everything. Even getting rid of them but no one wanted them. But NOW, I have a Tokina 16-22 F2.0 and a Sigma 28mm F1.3 on the MFT and they are both AMAZING on the G9 and GH5! My Canon 24-105mm F 4.0 is now a 34-149mm F2.8, My 50mm 1.4 and 85mm 1.8, well, I leave it at, I'm good now!. I am keeping my EF mount glass for VIDEO and using my native MFT for photos! I have a shit load of MFT lens and use them for photography and they work great! I also have the Sigma 16,30 and 56mm trio and they are great lenses! The G9 and GH5 are GREAT cameras and complement each other well but I think you get better results with video when using a speed booster! The Speed Booster will put you were a native MFT lens just can't imo! Love your videos! Keep killin' it!

[@fapeti]

Hi Chuck! Sigma 20mm F1.8 -> 20mm x2(m4/3) x0.71(speedbooster) = 28,4mm & -----> f1.8 x2(m4/3) = f3.6 x0.71(speedbooster ) = f2.556 You say, that when you have a "12-35 F2.8, you really have a 24-70 F5.6", this is true, but when you're calculating backwards, you don't do the same math. You didn't multiply the f stop with 2 first (because of the m4/3 sensor). But in the first scenario, you multiplied 2.8 with 2, thats how you got f5.6, but when calculating backwards you didn't. So when you have a Sigma 20mm F1.8, FIRST multiply it by 2, then x0.71 (baceause of the speedbooster). This way you get 1.8x2x0.71=f2.556, not f1.3! Because 2x0.71=1,42 -> 1,42x1,8=2,556 This way the f1.8 Sigma becomes a f2,556 with the speedbooster on the m43, but never 1.3!

[@voltvisuals]

8:27 any video proof on this?

[@voltvisuals]

Might just get a fast native lens and then see where I wanna head with the camera. The thing is most of them are like 1.5k Australian which is more then the g9 itself 😂

[@JohnHarvey]

Yes my proof is hours of testing and comparing the images shot with identical settings. The sigma f1.4 primes for M4/3 aren't that expensive compared to native panasonic lenses.

[@voltvisuals]

@@JohnHarvey yea I don't want sigmas because tery don't have manual overdrive

[@voltvisuals]

@@JohnHarvey the sigmas would be great for autofocus tho

[@JohnHarvey]

@@voltvisuals yeah the AF is really good for a panasonic camera. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaXVk4aPrcyEhpI

[@maxheadrom3088]

How do I send you my ditch's address? I can pay for postage! Thanks!

[@JohnHarvey]

Lol good

[@obinnaokoma3930]

​@UCxfa_SaKmDVFbz6P3ETmX-w Hello, I just bought some Rokinon cine lenses for MFT mount... to use with my GH5. What do you think?

[@taz24787]

This is the first video I am able to watch at x2 and understand everything. DAMN you speak slow dude.

[@JohnHarvey]

Hey thanks a ton!

[@taz24787]

@@JohnHarvey xD ... Thanks for the vid and the good vibe!

[@AlbowaSinema]

Autofocus? Tha is not a good reason for me. I shoot manual.

[@JohnHarvey]

I shoot manual too when it's important.

[@Kapil_Gahtori]

Sir whats your Instagram account name plzz tell

[@JohnHarvey]

I don't have Instagram

[@atc576]

lift some weights bro. prob .5 lbs more for bigger glass??

[@JohnHarvey]

You assume I don't lift weights? Unless I'm traveling all day I lift every single day. I don't care who you are, if your carrying all that gear with multiple lenses in a bookbag from 9am-midnight 5 days in a row and walking idk like 15 miles a day it's gonna be exhausting. Your back and shoulders will hurt. When I traveled to Vietnam that's exactly what it was like and I did wish my gear was much, much lighter. I also carry multiple lenses. Typically at least 3 sometimes 4 so that's 1/2 a pound extra each lens plus all the other gear.

[@usioproductions1823]

Oh no the big heavy 18-35 😂 go workout and those lenses will feel like they weigh nothing

[@JohnHarvey]

You think I don't work out? Lol. When your carrying your gear from sun up to sun down and walking mile after mile a week in a row it doesn't matter who you are, you will be wishing your gear was lighter. I thought the same thing about the 18-35 until I went to Vietnam.

[@usioproductions1823]

@@JohnHarvey if anything sounds like the walks though out Vietnam are the problem regardless of the gear I’m sure by day 3 it’s just the norm of endurance training just from caring the camera

[@golaoi]

Stop saying glass. Say lenses! I'm allergic to jargon!

[@JohnHarvey]

Lol ok.

[@photoneta]

Weight! Totally ridiculous. You look like a guy that should be fit and strong enough to lift 1kg.

[@JohnHarvey]

Lol well yeah but when your in a foreign country for 3 months and almost every day your walking 10 miles and carrying a bag of lenses and your carrying it sun up to well past sundown it gets quite heavy. I lift weights daily but even I started to get cramps carrying all the gear. Even just a G9 with a sigma 18-35 gets quite heavy doing this daily