Which Crack Climbing Technique is Strongest?

  Рет қаралды 100,548

Wide Boyz

2 жыл бұрын

What are the strongest and weakest jam. which pulls the most force, and does using a crack glove - compared to going bare hand - help.
We test tips finger jams, finger jams, Ring lock jams, thin hand jams, hand jams, cupped hand jams and fist jams to see which jam is king of jams.
0:00 How Strong are tips finger jams
4:38 How Strong are finger jams
6:56 How strong are Ringlock Jams
9:16 How Strong are Paddle Hand Jams
11:23 How Strong are Hand jams
14:11 How Strong are Cupped hand jams
14:51 How Strong are Fist jams
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Пікірлер: 288
@therealcyberius
@therealcyberius 2 жыл бұрын
"I need to work on my fisting" is absolutely going in my favorite Wide Boyz quotes
@Robert_McGarry_Poems
@Robert_McGarry_Poems 2 жыл бұрын
Of course that crack isn't going to fist itself. 👊
@MB-co6qj
@MB-co6qj Жыл бұрын
Crack fisting?😂
@sscswimmer1
@sscswimmer1 2 жыл бұрын
The science per minute here is incredible
@jeansimonlavallee
@jeansimonlavallee 2 жыл бұрын
Pete's willingness to throw himself into painful situations is commendable, and scary :D
@RealSlackerJon
@RealSlackerJon 2 жыл бұрын
So much science in one video, incredible.
@KimAndrewsbykimbo
@KimAndrewsbykimbo 2 жыл бұрын
"We're going to pull as hard as we can against our own feet with these stretchy, scratchy, hard-edged, pointy, stabby, springy things. What could possibly go wrong?" Tom: "And I'm going to do it barefoot".
@stitch3163
@stitch3163 2 жыл бұрын
Pete: “Stand back, I’m about to try science.” Everyone: “I hope he doesn’t drag Tom into this.”
@aidanchalnick
@aidanchalnick 2 жыл бұрын
The science counter couldn't handle including variations like "scientifically"
@dbalmar
@dbalmar 2 жыл бұрын
I just LOVE how Pete looks at the camera announcing the scores at 10:37 with the biggest of smiles. 49!
@danieljensen2626
@danieljensen2626 2 жыл бұрын
I feel like it would have made a lot more sense to pop that loop over a pull-up bar and try to hang from it rather than pulling from your foot. No danger when you slip out, and also that's a more natural motion to climbing. (And maybe throw on a weight belt to get above bodyweight). Great advert for your gloves though, they made a massive difference on some of those.
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Many things on this channel would make alot more sense if.... 😂
@azaba2007
@azaba2007 2 жыл бұрын
Nah, it is much more "scientific" this way
@FlarkeFiasco
@FlarkeFiasco 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, the way they currently did it, it's just a measurement of pain, which is important with jamming. I'd love to see a re-test with a bar method
@Rafa-uj2oi
@Rafa-uj2oi 2 жыл бұрын
Come on lad, let the sciencers do their sciencing stuff. This science staff know a lot about science stuff. Science.
@NOTYOU0BVIOUSLY
@NOTYOU0BVIOUSLY 2 жыл бұрын
The problem with pulling down from it is that you're limited to body weight. What would have been best is to tether the device to the ground with a shorter strap so you can just deadlift it instead of the awkward pull that's mostly upper body strength.
@boostpanda0492
@boostpanda0492 2 жыл бұрын
20% increase just from the gloves?! I need to order a pair RIGHT NOW
@TheMANuel2595
@TheMANuel2595 2 жыл бұрын
The more I watch you guys the more I accept that crack-climbing is mainly about pain tolerance and the main reason Petes so good at it is his high pain tolerance. Very entertaining and SCIENTIFIC video.
@EverettWilson
@EverettWilson 2 жыл бұрын
"That's our first bit of proper science!" Tom proceeds to loosen a bolt with pliers.
@dougthebuilder1
@dougthebuilder1 2 жыл бұрын
I laughed at this too, probably found it on one of those shelves of random crap in the cellar
@sp10sn
@sp10sn 2 жыл бұрын
There's science and there's there's engineering 😆
@WollocksMate
@WollocksMate 2 жыл бұрын
Just scienced the sh*t out of those jams
@beardedboulderer2609
@beardedboulderer2609 2 жыл бұрын
the subscribe*
@CJski
@CJski 2 жыл бұрын
Can’t wait to see other climbers doing this and sharing the results Also, I saw that 69;)
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Haha 😉
@davesmith1588
@davesmith1588 2 жыл бұрын
Tom claims he isn't as brave, yet starts with bare feet
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
I know 🤷‍♂️ what's that all about!
@josefwild2318
@josefwild2318 2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz for a 1 rep max test i d sponser you safety shoes🦿
@jdjones4825
@jdjones4825 3 ай бұрын
Is brave the correct word?😂😂😂
@kessklouser3072
@kessklouser3072 2 жыл бұрын
“all this time i thought you had good technique, but you’re just a complete force beast. unbelievable.” -tom 2021
@RobertTyrrellSlater
@RobertTyrrellSlater 2 жыл бұрын
"We're gonna go for 2 fingers because... well that's science" - I'm stealing that line, thanks Tom!
@finlayhumberstone8137
@finlayhumberstone8137 2 жыл бұрын
Yet again top notch editing
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Thank @sessionmedia for these Thursday videos
@sessionmediaa
@sessionmediaa 2 жыл бұрын
Cheers! 👍👍👍
@bbryant460
@bbryant460 2 жыл бұрын
This is exactly what I need before a hard training session Edit: it worked, I finally sent my 5 week project
@avawinter8634
@avawinter8634 2 жыл бұрын
Well done!!
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Haha amazing 😀👏👏
@okupak
@okupak 2 жыл бұрын
FOR SCIENCE! I really love Pete's post-pull-face. about to pass out but happy! 13:45
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
I was seeing stars! Haha
@Cleeemoo
@Cleeemoo 2 жыл бұрын
What a great science video, loved it! And the edit is really well done too! I'd love to see you try with two hands down the crack, and maybe try something to science the foot jams. You'll build something, find a way, I have faith and trust in your sciencing!
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
thank @sessionmedia for the thursday edits :)
@squamishstu
@squamishstu 2 жыл бұрын
From the start I was giddy waiting for Tom to drop the block on his bare feet what a treat!
@wolfberg_gpasca
@wolfberg_gpasca 2 жыл бұрын
I hope the "hand jam science box" will develop into some form of crack fingerboard!
@DreadEnder
@DreadEnder Жыл бұрын
“Normally in fist jams you aim for the constriction and it can feel quite good, but in the completely parallel cracks there’s not much expansion in your fist so it can feel pretty slippy. So I’m quite keen, uhh pleased.”
@metalsam666
@metalsam666 2 жыл бұрын
That was just a great episode to watch. I love it when theres that much science involved
@MeeloOrg
@MeeloOrg 2 жыл бұрын
I love how Pete appears to be unsure how to pronounce the word science during the ring lock stage :D I also hope Tom isn't the accountant for Wide Boyz with that 63 / 2 = 22 madness :D
@connorreeve6627
@connorreeve6627 2 жыл бұрын
Do you guys sell this adjustable jam box? Or did you make it? Really like the design and would love one of my own
@panicbuildgod
@panicbuildgod 2 жыл бұрын
Ya'lls editor is on fire! Really good timing.
@Govanification
@Govanification 2 жыл бұрын
Is Pete still editing these videos??
@leitoncerocho5789
@leitoncerocho5789 2 жыл бұрын
12:34 he almost fckng shited himself right there man, no way hajahajahajahajahajaha
@Lea-tf7de
@Lea-tf7de 2 жыл бұрын
haven't watched yet but still know it will be a good video! :)
@kessklouser3072
@kessklouser3072 2 жыл бұрын
“cause that’s science.” -Pete
@sethgilbertson2474
@sethgilbertson2474 2 жыл бұрын
You guys GOTTA give more info on that jam box device!
@junuhunuproductions
@junuhunuproductions 2 жыл бұрын
Such an informative video! Thank you!!
@Lexcommentyoutube
@Lexcommentyoutube 2 жыл бұрын
An endurance test would be cool to see as well! Like how long can you hold 70-80% of max for on each jam. Awesome video, really interesting science going on
@jansenkosasih
@jansenkosasih Жыл бұрын
I love how you guys compliment each other!!!
@danjordan2625
@danjordan2625 2 жыл бұрын
I smile so much watching these videos. Subscribed!
@shrill_2165
@shrill_2165 2 жыл бұрын
A really cool thing you guys could possibly do is take a parallel crack and incrementally increase it’s width. By gathering a data point for each one, you can create some nice graphs for each technique that shows you the optimum width
@xClipqnex
@xClipqnex 2 жыл бұрын
Would’ve love to see both hands for more scientific data to record.
@WeSpeakPretty
@WeSpeakPretty 2 жыл бұрын
Crack gloves came today. They are definitely a tight fit, but the material is phenomenal. Most definitely worth the wait. I will be heading for the cracks tomorrow morning. Also thank you for the stickers, especially the fisting is for Fridays one lol
@kavali6320
@kavali6320 2 жыл бұрын
This grip contraption thingy looks a lot like a mouse trap 🤣 What you guys do for science is just admirable😉
@beebeboys7836
@beebeboys7836 2 жыл бұрын
Great vid!
@craigbishop4644
@craigbishop4644 2 жыл бұрын
Absolutely love the editing and commentary on this 🤣🤣🤣
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Thank @sessionmedia for the Thursday edits 💪
@clown5911
@clown5911 2 жыл бұрын
This video was amazing.
@TheJuicemann24
@TheJuicemann24 2 жыл бұрын
genius idea testing this
@Reeenald
@Reeenald 2 жыл бұрын
Schience meter was absolutely needed, should have included "scientific" and all other derivatives. Loved the vid haha
@etienne9306
@etienne9306 2 жыл бұрын
Much science, many experiments, so precise, wow.
@dortheaenger1397
@dortheaenger1397 2 жыл бұрын
15:40 is why I love crack climbing content. Keep up the good work!
@bennordstrom
@bennordstrom 2 жыл бұрын
This was so cool!
@alexc650
@alexc650 2 жыл бұрын
Within the first 15 seconds I was completely hooked
@Lovetoskate
@Lovetoskate Жыл бұрын
This list at the end is incredibly useful, if your half way up a wall looking at a crack and you have this noted in your head it’s a lot less confusing to look at the crack, you find what size fits nicely going down on your mental list, that way your not just hesitantly trying to fit your hand in the crack. I think you solved a lot of issues for regular climbers with this if they chose to learn it.😂 obviously training these jams is a must too. But at least there’s also a list of things to practice for once with cracks :D
@arifandyhakam4633
@arifandyhakam4633 2 жыл бұрын
Love it when pete turned into tomato after every pull
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Tomato head 🍅
@arigrode7636
@arigrode7636 2 жыл бұрын
Would love to see a comparison between bare skin, tape gloves, and the crack gloves!
@turdferguson2863
@turdferguson2863 Жыл бұрын
Good advertisement for the gloves!
@hopelesswanderer6891
@hopelesswanderer6891 2 жыл бұрын
Pete’s looks like an excited little kid saying the number after each test 😂
@moonti6820
@moonti6820 2 жыл бұрын
I feel scienced now, thank you.
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
No problem
@macgyveriii2818
@macgyveriii2818 2 жыл бұрын
Great video! :) Thanks a lot for the...uh....science.
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching 🤙
@dietrootbeer_
@dietrootbeer_ 2 жыл бұрын
the 'cause that's... science' edit at 7:45 was totally seemless hahaha
@samuelgerber1994
@samuelgerber1994 2 жыл бұрын
Would love to see a comparison with tape gloves too.
@RainbowFishSaysHello
@RainbowFishSaysHello Жыл бұрын
“Good, good… science! Good.” 😂
@rjginsburg
@rjginsburg 2 жыл бұрын
Nice! Was there anything in the final order of jams that surprised you? Looked like they all came out pretty much as expected.
@MontyD
@MontyD 2 жыл бұрын
Weeellllllcome back ladies and gentlemen to: *Wide Boyz do **_science_*
@DreadEnder
@DreadEnder Жыл бұрын
You actually said science 41 times but 12 times you added a tific to the end
@ilyakravchuk2030
@ilyakravchuk2030 2 жыл бұрын
Ok, before my next testing sesh I'm gonna create such a contraption, attach it to a Tindeq progressor and test my jamming peak force, endurance and rate of force in the name of science! Pete's pain tolerance is what makes me even more psyched to do that, gotta check out mine
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Get it done. An endurance test whereas you keep the science meter above a certain Kilo for as long as possible would be good as well
@Rafa-uj2oi
@Rafa-uj2oi 2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz that sciencing stuff is too complicatedly sciencetific… I’ll need a team of sciencers
@ttusna
@ttusna 2 жыл бұрын
Pete's science! It's over 9000!
@xReppl
@xReppl 2 жыл бұрын
"I need to work on my fisting" that cracked me up xD
@benjaminsebald5429
@benjaminsebald5429 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks to this scientific video, I now have a scientific reference to tell people when I say, “Climbing with gloves too much makes you soft”. Invaluable - thank you!
@glynwilliams13266231
@glynwilliams13266231 2 жыл бұрын
Pure science right there!
@alpcanonur5472
@alpcanonur5472 2 жыл бұрын
It would be interesting to see how big the difference is if you hang your measuring "device" on a pull up bar. I think the muscles used are quite different if you pull down not up :) Nice video tho, the amount of weight you guys can pull with jams is kinda insane. Everytime I try it, I remove my skin like a glove without being able to pull me up (: repeatable, reliable and valid aaaand delicious lol
@davidwakley2346
@davidwakley2346 2 жыл бұрын
Great video but how have you got that crane scale working with that setup?
@kiefmanning7394
@kiefmanning7394 2 жыл бұрын
I am not sure but I think I was just tricked in to watching a 15 minute commercial for crack gloves. I see what you did there
@thisis27characters
@thisis27characters 2 жыл бұрын
Was really hoping for at least 14% more science but it was still a pretty good vid
@jamesclark6257
@jamesclark6257 2 жыл бұрын
Should test tape vs glove and also does chalk actually improve a jam
@ian-wilson
@ian-wilson 2 жыл бұрын
I love science, and crack climbing, this is so great
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
This is the video for you then 🙂
@vaclavsedmidubsky4638
@vaclavsedmidubsky4638 2 жыл бұрын
Very interesting, thanks! I was just wandering, why dont' you hang the measuring device from a pullup bar and gradually lower yourself in the hips until you slip out? If you can hold your bodyweigh, add some weight on your harness and it will work the same. PS: Even without the wooden planck the force reading should be the same.
@ghosthamster6521
@ghosthamster6521 Жыл бұрын
very good science
@EvilHippy666
@EvilHippy666 2 жыл бұрын
For science you should hang device and jam from a bar and slowly weight them with body till you pop out(If your device gives a max force reading). The direction you are pulling here doesn't seem ergonomic or natural...
@dave_h_8742
@dave_h_8742 2 жыл бұрын
Jam box looks like my idea for a hand jam trainer with springs on it for a bit of give. Tom Fisting the box for all he's worth ! (Mechanic in me is Hating the pliers, use a frickin wing nut or spanner you spanners 😀)
@bloodink9508
@bloodink9508 2 жыл бұрын
When will you be adding the small Crack block to your shop for those of us who can't afford a climbing wall in our apartments? That things looks amazing. I would take that to a gym and hang kettle bells off it or throw it up on a bar and weight it.
@bigutubefan2738
@bigutubefan2738 2 жыл бұрын
It'd be interesting to know how much extra force you can pull (or hang off) parallel to the crack, and even side ways off from the crack, compared to how much force you can pulling straight out of it (so kind of in shear rather than in tension).
@simonpointner
@simonpointner 2 жыл бұрын
"I have to work on my fisting!" - classic climbing lingo :P
@gregorsewald6715
@gregorsewald6715 2 жыл бұрын
i wonder where i can purchase such a jam box. didn't find one on the homepage
@Dothackfreak11
@Dothackfreak11 2 жыл бұрын
Do weighted hangs like this!
@andrewp.9541
@andrewp.9541 2 жыл бұрын
What device is that you are using? Looks really handy for mobile crack training and for teaching
@mw5360
@mw5360 2 жыл бұрын
Great science.
@beatagraczer1897
@beatagraczer1897 2 жыл бұрын
How many toes did Tom sacrifice on the altar of science? Ouch! 🤣
@markdavis8430
@markdavis8430 2 жыл бұрын
Science A got you bro? Where are use based a need to try this
@BlueHoundDog
@BlueHoundDog 2 жыл бұрын
As a scientist, I scientifically approve of the science in this science experiment.
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
haha!!
@jasonschmitt5368
@jasonschmitt5368 Жыл бұрын
I thought all this time Pete was saying 'cooked hands' as a size reference and then I see the captions saying 'cupped hands' 😄 I don't think there's much difference between the two.
@_liamhobson_
@_liamhobson_ 2 жыл бұрын
I’ve been running up and down an overhung crack boulder problem in the gym for the past week or so and have developed what feels like a deep bruise on the back of my hand that hurts when I release a hard jam. Have you guys experienced that in your crackventures?
@sethdavison
@sethdavison 2 жыл бұрын
This could be a great crossover with howNOTto 👍 your perfect hands is "super good enough"
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
would we be the tensioners (hanging off jams) in their highline set up...
@Setarkos91
@Setarkos91 2 жыл бұрын
Paddle hand vs. ring lock will depend on the terrain angle. Vertical -> ring lock, steeper -> paddle.
@ryancampbell9803
@ryancampbell9803 2 жыл бұрын
Legends!
@inferiorquality
@inferiorquality 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing video! Nice try hard going down :)
@alexc650
@alexc650 2 жыл бұрын
Any plans to do this with stacks or other jams???
@andris788
@andris788 2 жыл бұрын
You should check how much you can pull from a pull up bar as a reference
@richardhobson4467
@richardhobson4467 2 жыл бұрын
You should position the jam at a round knee height to be able to use as much power to pull your hand out of the jam as possible - at knee height you can use quads glutes, back and shoulders to pull against the hand. In this video you have the jam just below the waist - so you can pretty much just use your shoulders to pull your hand out - this is much weaker than the other scenario. An even better scenario would be to actually hang from the jam placing it above you - this means you can reduce as much weight from your feet from standing as possible until the jam fails.
@dave_h_8742
@dave_h_8742 2 жыл бұрын
@Tomrandle what size foot are you I'll send you some Tool station footwear before you loose a toe !( actually just a catalogue 😂) Sciency testing foot cracks next ? Pure Tom Randall carpentry skillz coming into play.
@daBuzzY90
@daBuzzY90 2 жыл бұрын
15:40 hmmmm... What was that, Tom?
@jakeweeks
@jakeweeks 2 жыл бұрын
Before I watched, I guessed at which would be strongest based on what feels more "secure" to me - hands, fingers, fists, paddles, cupped hands, ringlocks, and tips descending. I was mainly surprised at how strong the cupped hands were given they always seem to slip for me, and how weak fingers were in comparison. Obviously this was a parallel sided crack without constrictions to take some of the load off the muscles, but do you guys also equate strength with security? For me I'd feel safer trying to flash a long finger crack than cupped or even thin hands any day.
@talomartin8481
@talomartin8481 2 жыл бұрын
Conclusion: Tom stills being the same weak and technique climber and Pete the uncontrolled powerhouse 😂🤦‍♂️ Love you punters!
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 2 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to our next trip talo 😀
@talomartin8481
@talomartin8481 2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz hell yeahhhhh
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