Wifi Smart Switch w/ Tasmota & Home Assistant | Home Automation

[@schillaci5590]

April 2021 tips: If you are struggling or think you will struggle with solderless pin contact, then follow my advice: Get a 4 pin header; slide the middle separator (black plastic) down to almost the entire length (just enough to still keep the header together); then bend all 4 pins about 45 degrees; then sandwich the circuit board into a breadboard by using the header pins. This gave the best contact/tightest fit. Then wire your flasher into the breadboard leaving at least one row accessible between the circuit board and the flasher wiring. The beauty of using a breadboard is that a) it locks the circuit board in tight (or tighter) thus leaving you with both hands spare, b) provided you left a spare row, you can insert another jumper wire into the Ground row and use that to touch R19. I bought a TIUK3C-TX switch today (05/04/2021) and though the circuit board is dated 17/10/2018, I found R19 in a different place. It's still the correct resistor to touch however.

[@romutis]

Would be great to see a detailed video about your home-assistant system: panels, configs, scripts, automations, tricks.

[@FPol-if6bm]

hi, looking good. The new wallplate I mean. I've just changed my original T1 to esphome, and that works like a charm too.

[@NadimAJ]

There it is. The video i was searching for. Thanks Dr BaldZzs :)

[@KamenMarkov]

Oh wow, this single wire switch sounds really good for us in europe. I didn't even believe it's possible to have enough juice for a wifi device out of single wire. I see a thread on Tasmota where it's debated whether Tasmota can be used with it, and Theo himself is unsure whether it's possible. Pleaase get one and check, I might need to buy like 5-6 to replace my current battery operated ones :)

[@rabidbunny3025]

Please update this tutorial, the newer boards for the TX range (US) version 2.0.1 - does not work anymore with R19 (GPIO0), they are now located on R18 (GPIO0) ... closest to the chip ... ;) Pulled out quite a bit of hair, but eventually got it flashed.

[@JimVanderveen]

Thank you!

[@dracoqcca]

Hi @DrZzs. have you figure out the pin for the buzzer on the Tx?

[@josnelihurt]

Hi it seems like the buzzer is wired to the other chip, do you know how can I control it. Thanks

[@MrKroy2008]

Great video - have you done any videos for flashing the TC 3 channel with ESPHome?

[@Voidbros2012]

looks great. How do you use the buzzer?

[@NoobOnTour024]

This I would also like to know!

[@TheOldBlackCrow]

Very nice... I'm using SmartLife and eWeLink about equally. I tried the Shelly, but both units failed; one, out of the box and the other 2 days ago from a power outage. Nice to know Sonoff has so many choices.

[@pasqualecutolo7132]

Hello @DrZzs, congrats for very usefull videos. Is there a way to change SSID or password after first installation? Thanks in advance!

[@TokyoUnderworld]

I have a room with both smart bulbs, as well as regular bulbs controlled by regular power switches. Is it possible to set up the Sonoff to have e.g. two switches replace the regular power switch, and have the third switch just control the on/off state of a smart light bulb without toggling mains power to the bulb?

[@mohammadchaaban]

Thanks..... U r spending efforts we all appreciate...

[@DrZzs]

Thanks man!

[@EpicLPer]

Got a cheap WiFi SmartSwitch from Amazon and it uses a tywe3s ESP8266 inside, I wanna flash it with Espurna now. However it doesn’t seem to have any premade builds yet, or does someone know of a „generic“ build of Espurna able to adjust the GPIOs accordingly? Or maybe I should use something entirely different?

[@DrZzs]

Hmmm, I'm not sure about ESPurna. I'm sure you could do it with Tasmota. There are a ton of Templates for different devices. Even if there isn't one for that device Tasmota does let you re-assign GPIO pins so you can play with it until you find the right combinations. I've done that with a couple devices. blakadder.github.io/templates/ Hope that helps!

[@andrescalapt_]

@DrZzs I have the TXT2EU1C if I turn of the switch I can't turn on the ceiling light with his app, I need to turn on the switch to be able to change brightness etc. Is there a way to change this? Thanks

[@Sicross1989]

Where did I find the hardware to flash sonoff TX? I can't use ewelink anymore with ifttt due to their incredible policy

[@nwhistler]

Where you say you don’t know how it finds it in the lan scan, it most like does it by the MAC address. The MAC address has a vendor prefix.

[@DrZzs]

oh cool! I didn't know that. Thanks!

[@Sunspear86]

Awesome video as always man! could you please share a link or make a video about the "No Neutral Wire" version?

[@TopherHax]

Is it possible to use these as "smart switches" where they don't actually flip the state of the relays but just broadcast the button press to invoke other things in homeassistant?

[@servage]

The only way to flash Tasmota firmware to Sonoff TX is by using that little board? Where can I find that thing?

[@jackywoo4975]

Hi Dr, another very good detail video thank you. Could you wired this sonoff tx three ways? or you need to do it with software automations? Thanks in advance!

[@DrZzs]

No, it's not made for 3-way switching. You'll have to make it work with Automations. Sorry

[@jackywoo4975]

@@DrZzs thanks doc

[@davidchen813]

Hi sir: do you have any custom component that can be added bluetooth miscale into hassio ? Thanks for your help!

[@klint76]

Tx looks good, can't wait til they have the capability to dim

[@DrZzs]

ya, I like it. I'm surprised they haven't made a dimmer yet. Check out Livolo, or Martin-Gerry. They have dimmers. Probably more expensive though.

[@DrZzs]

ooh, and Shelly just released a dimmer switch!

[@gnasser76]

hello . after flashing with tasmota , does it still work with alexa ?noob here i know :(

[@markmulder996]

Do these bad boys have a remote switch mode through tasmota? So let's say i have 2 physical wires that i want to switch, but i get the 3 gang model and want to use the 3rd button to switch another smart device that's not actually connected to the TX. So for the 3rd gang, all i need is the button press being sent to HA.

[@DrZzs]

Yes, you could use the extra buttons to just send mqtt commands through HA to activate other devices or automations. I've done that with the old T1 switches too :)

[@markmulder996]

​@@DrZzs Awesome. I've managed to get it set up just perfectly. tasmota setup: setoption1:1, setoption11,1, buttontopic custom and setoption32 10. Which results in: -single click: just switch the relay -double click: send mqtt command toggle (relay not being switched!) -long press: send mqtt command HOLD (relay not being switched) So now my 3-gang switch can handle 9 actions. EPIC!

[@JimVanderveen]

Thanks for posting that, @Mark Mulder!

[@Mrcaffinebean]

Very nice switch, as always the pricing on these is very compelling. I do kind of wonder what kind of face plate would be needed for this type of switch in a 3 gang box. I would think you would need to 3D print something to get to a semi finished product

[@gerhardfreiberg2543]

The previous sonoff T1 has some problems with ghost switching. This new version has sill the same problem?

[@collindewitt1989]

I would love to know as well. The ghosting is really annoying in the T1

[@tomar5e115]

I have found that all sonoff suffer from ghost switching. I had a bunch of basics modified behind the switch plate and forever had ghost switching. Did not have the WAP factor with those

[@gerhardfreiberg2543]

@@tomar5e115 I use SetOption40 in tasmota github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki/Commands

[@phaxzbautista10]

hi,can you use this to home assistant locally without flashing?

[@76queen]

Dr ZZs on the sonoff mini with regard to the wifi coverage and the wifi antenna will it still work mounted to the back of the face plate and what is the maximum distance to an wifi access point? And by the way your videos are awesome !

[@DrZzs]

Thanks! it should still work. Max distance probably depends one what is in between the device and the wifi hub. Open space vs walls vs concrete, etc. I've had mine > 50ft apart and still working.

[@justinanderson8518]

followed exactly and bricked my sonoff. it flashes succesfully but no more blinking led and no wifi access point. cant restore it to factory and it seems to be bricked. I really like HA but all these problems getting things to work are about to make me say F it.

[@DavideBettin]

is it possible flash tasmota over the air in this switches?

[@willhutcheon4144]

I would assume the button on the side is GPIO 0 also! - you should try to reflash with older sonoff to see !?!

[@DrZzs]

Good thinking. I'll try that.

[@SittingDuc]

I didn't see continuity from the button to gpio0. Only R19 on the board showed me gpio0

[@zareya1989]

I've got the TX EU version 3 gang flashed with Tasmota (had to scratch off some paint to access gpio-0. Also, the EU version doesn't have a button ) For me the buzzer option in tasmota doesn't work. Does it work with your US version?

[@ashleywolf5522]

How did you find the gpio-0? Is there a tutorial online I can follow to flash the TX(T3, 3-gang, UK version)?

[@jaycollett1926]

What is concerning about these is the specified current rating per gang. They are not 10 AMP per gang, they are 2 AMP per gang which is very odd and could be a serious issue if you have these controlling multiple lights...I wish Sonoff would standardize on only using 10 AMP or 15 AMP safe relays...I wanted these but I'm not trusting a 2 AMP rating...

[@Donly1pt]

Hello DrZzs. Quick question: is it possible to use the switch just as a "soft" switch using the on/off status in home assistant to control other things? been searching for a way to have physical buttons to control actions in home assistant and was wondering if this smart switches could do the trick. cheers

[@markmulder996]

I've just managed to get exactly that set up just perfectly. tasmota setup: setoption1:1, setoption11,1, buttontopic custom and setoption32 10. Which results in: -single click: just switch the relay -double click: send mqtt command TOGGLE (relay not being switched, do whatever you want with the mqtt command) -long press: send mqtt command HOLD (relay not being switched, do whatever you want with the mqtt command) If you want you can also just ignore the relay completely and just use the mqtt input to trigger other stuff.

[@sreed1073]

Silly question you said you where using a extension cord for test how did you hook it up. As I have three switch I need to setup tasmota rules on and I want to do on my bench before I take the old switches out of the wall

[@Kosh42EFG]

Just hook live and neutral in to a plug. And be VERY careful!

[@MrTipster888]

Would this work with a 3 way dumb switch?

[@Airbag888]

Can this work with home assistant using AlexxIT/s integration? Anyone know their idle/load power consumption?

[@ItsmeCoringa]

Hey DrZzs, what did you prefer, HassIo or Hassbian? I see that youre using hassio now.

[@madrian_hello]

Hassbian is for Pi only (it is a pre-made all in one home assistant image for Pi), but Drzzs is running his system on a PC, so the answer is Hassio.

[@DrZzs]

yep. All Hassio now for a while. Unless you're a power linux user, hassio is the way to go. Just the available add-ons is enough to make the decision to go with Hassio.

[@marcusone1]

Thanks... great video... however, these switches still don't have good relays... 2A max per channel is tiny... likely works for smaller homes, or entrance spaces with only a couple lights, but larger areas people should be careful using these.

[@SittingDuc]

If the relays were any larger, it probably wouldn't fit in the wall. As it is, the T0US fully occupies a New Zealand flushbox because it is so big.

[@marcusone1]

@@SittingDuc not really... Relay size doesn't completely determine rating. Shelly 2.5 has 2 10A and it's tiny. Could they get 3 10A relays...maybe...but definitely could get 5A... Just costs more which maybe a bigger concern for them.

[@markmulder996]

true, but honestly every single switch in my house controls lighting, and that's all LED (no more than 32w on a single channel, usually more like 10). So while i totally agree that by design the breaker should be the weakest link in the chain, the current construction is not really an issue for me personally.

[@allant5825]

FYI if you open them up the relays are rated for 10A. They are the same relays that are in the Sonoff Basics. Im not sure why they rated them at 2A? The use the same solder traces as the Sonoff Basic as well. My guess is they could withstand more than 2A

[@StePhanMckillen]

10 out 10 bro just order 2 of them

[@Dognme]

I have the US version and if I pay $.10 for it, it’s to much - there is no way or place to connect the ground wire so the only thing it has done was cover the space where my old switch was

[@TechdoLiberal]

Hey Dr zzs! Is rf still usable in this case? I have a sonoff t3 that I flashed with tasmota, but I don't have any rf buttons to try it out. Do you know if the rf functions are still usable, and if so how? Cheers!

[@DrZzs]

I don't know if the RF is still working or not. I'd suggest asking in the Tasmota Discord server. discord.gg/u97h8zB

[@Airbag888]

This channel is so good what the hell.. Anyone got a recommendation? My house is being built (240v british type electric - not in UK though) and my hope is: -have power readings for almost everything in the house that plugs in or lights -be able to control all lights and almost every socket and create automations based on presence, weather (I have an ecowitt [temp/humid/windspeed/rain/flood] connected to my home assistant) -be able to control these and groups using google home -be able to control/get status while being away from home so electricity usage is important to me and I got myself a basicR2 and 4 powR2 so far. Astonishingly the basicR2 uses 1.5W/2.5W idle/load. The PowR2 uses 0.6W idle and 0.9W load. I wonder what these switches consume in terms of power. I also wonder about tasmota vs stock power consumption (I'd think tasmota would use more since it enables more features so logically would use more processing) Thanks! After typing all this I saw the video is from 2019 😅

[@theaddies]

I am completely stumped. I bought a couple of these thinking that since they were a double gang switch they would fit within a double gang light junction box. what in the world am I suppose to do with the switch. It won't fit.

[@Kosh42EFG]

Get your country's version of this:www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-electric-lisse-1-gang-spacer-white/5782J?kpid=5782J&ds_kid=92700048793290388

[@EsotericArctos]

I like the cleaner looking, unmarked faceplate with the bevelled edge, but I prefer the no frills packaging. I would rather have pay for a product, not pay for fancy packaging.

[@DrZzs]

Amen. I agree x3 :)

[@SittingDuc]

the sonoff logo is a little distracting. A blank face would have been nicer. And I am tempted to add a little black "dot" on the T0US-3CH I have. In daylight, it's hard to guess where to touch

[@ashleywolf5522]

Hi excuse me, how do you know what your MQTT Host( ) is? Where do I find it?

[@Kosh42EFG]

Try the Mosquitto HASS.IO add-on. Should be able to go from there.

[@odddavelars1003]

Has anyone been able to toggle the second or third button directly from Node Red?

[@ashleywolf5522]

Oh man, if only you had a tutorial for the TX UK version for the rest of the world :(

[@DrZzs]

Sorry. If you can find the Rx/Tx pins the rest should be the same. Try the Tasmota github page. They have lots of research on different devices. I bet they have some info about the UK TX.

[@ashleywolf5522]

DrZzs will do boss :)

[@markmulder996]

@@ashleywolf5522 i've got the EU version and this guide worked perfectly for mine: github.com/arendst/Tasmota/wiki/Sonoff-TX-Series

[@Kosh42EFG]

I'm about to hunt GPIO0 on my UK TX tonight. Did you find it in the end to put it in to flash mode?

[@cr8zyeditor]

Hey Doc, your link for direct from Sonoff isn't working. Not sure if it's them or you, or perhaps because it's US only? Seems like a good improvement to their product.

[@DrZzs]

uh oh. I'll check it out. Thanks.

[@DrZzs]

got a working link now. drzzs.com/SonoffTX

[@cr8zyeditor]

@@DrZzs Just checked, works now.

[@kiwijunglist]

looks nicer. it's a shame that it has the sonoff logo and wifi light, although i wonder if you can turn off the wifi light in the firmware.

[@markmulder996]

the wifi led is easily blocked by a bit of tape or paper on the back of the faceplate. I did that with mine as well.

[@RobSchmidt434]

Is there a way to add this to a two or three-gang box?

[@DrZzs]

It should screw to the holes in any US box in the vertical position. You'd have to do something to cover the other half or 2/3rd's of the box. Or maybe use a blank plate over the top. I'll have to try a couple different ways and see what's best.

[@ThePatriotHound]

Can you do a multi pole setup?

[@JorgeRzezak]

Hola amigo, I'm a fan of your videos. Your work s amazing! I'm still did not flash tasmota in the old T1 US but I can see that setting it in interlock mode by using ewelink you cannot set the inching mode. It means that if I'd like to use a T1 US with 2 gangs for a curtain when you turn on the switch Ch1 (CH2 will be off) it will remain on which having inching allowed it is possible to program it to turn off after the amount of seconds the curtain opens or close totally. Is it possible to control the T1 or TX by using NodeRed/MQTT and Home Assistant? Maybe you could do some examples of the application I suggest in some of your future videos. Hasta la vista amigo!

[@DrZzs]

Hi! I think what you're looking for in Tasmota is called Pulsetime. github.com/arendst/Tasmota/wiki/Commands#control It will trigger the relay, then hold it for the time you set, then turn it off again. Hope that helps.

[@JorgeRzezak]

@@DrZzs but doing so, it is possible to set the wall switch as in a kind of inter-lock modality that when you press one of the two buttons, the other must be off and the opposite. and Gracias for your answer.

[@JorgeRzezak]

I could see in the table of the link that there is Interlock, then, I'm wandering if it is possible to set both Pulsetime and Interlock together. I'm did not use Tasmota yet, but I will soon. My other question is, I saw a video of yours that you are doing firmware upload through OTA, and in the TX you are doing by the dongle, is it possible to do it OTA as well?

[@MrDaRkDeXTeR2]

hello, i cant find the sonoff.bin file, could you please help me @DrZzs

[@DrZzs]

it's now changed to "tasmota.bin" Same great firmware, just a new name.

[@BrianFurios]

What do you use for Home Assistant? Rasberry or a VM?

[@DrZzs]

I use a VM. Pi works well but if you aren't diligent about backups you can lose a lot of work if the SD card dies. I'd like to test the Pi4 and see how well it works with Hassio. I don't have one yet.

[@BrianFurios]

@@DrZzs you can't export the configuration from Hassio?

[@Kosh42EFG]

@@DrZzs May I suggest github.com/sabeechen/hassio-google-drive-backup Works a charm for me.

[@PietroThe99]

hi, my hassio not start after a reboot or when i turn off the power supply.. Can someone help me? because the only way is to reflash the sd card :(

[@DrZzs]

uh oh. ya, it might be a dead SD card. I assume you're running on a Pi. If it powers off without going through the shutdown process it can kill the SD card. That's what happened to mine that made me decide to run hassio on something else. Do you have backups? If you do it will be less painful. If you don't, then after you finally do get it all rebuilt setup the google drive backups so you'll never lose everything again. Sorry man.

[@tomar5e115]

First step to a reliable home automation system: Migrate your HASS install to a dedicated machine or docker. This reinstall for you will be a blessing in disguise

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

I'm guessing that moving from 0.7x to 0.9x I should just start over and maybe use Docker on my QNAP.

[@DrZzs]

oh hey old friend! well, ya, maybe. If you haven't updated since 0.7 there are going to be a lot of breaking changes. There will be less from now on so it's a good time to finally update. We haven't had any really big problems for several months now. Even when there is a break it's been easier to manage. Welcome Back!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

@@DrZzs that first line "😊" It's appreciated.

[@James02876]

The banggood link took me to a T2, not a TX.

[@DrZzs]

It's the right switch. They've done some funny naming with these switches. They have T0, T1, T2, and T3. They are slightly different in design and color. "The WiFi smart switches with 1-3 gangs are divided into T0(EU & UK &US), T1(EU & UK), T2(EU & UK &US) and T3(EU & UK &US). T3 is available in black, and T0, T1 and T2 are available in white. Additionally T1, T2 and T3 support 433MHz remote controller to control." from Sonoff website. T2 is the one with the nicer beveled edge. www.itead.cc/sonoff-tx-series-wifi-smart-wall-switches.html

[@osborne82]

R19 is same as the no neutral switch too

[@DrZzs]

oh cool! I just got the no-neutral switch but I haven't cracked it open yet. That'll save me some time hunting. Thanks!

[@osborne82]

@@DrZzs soz my mistake it's r12 on the back you need to short to ground. . Was a month or so I did it lol . Got esphome on now although tasmota worked great too

[@chrislambe400]

Can the long button press be decoupled from the RF functionality? I would like to use a long press to switch a floor standing light with a shelly behind the socket. In Switzerland we have cool triplet sockets and usually the bottom right one is switchable from a double light switch. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets#Swiss_SEV_1011

[@rdosenna]

Hi Chris! Did you get this answer? I would like to do something similar.

[@rafflesmaos]

Not UL/ETL listed? :(

[@DrZzs]

No it isn't. I believe they are planning to apply for UL listing. We can thank Shelly for pushing them into it.

[@rafflesmaos]

@@DrZzs I hope they do. These seem like a great DIY alternative to Caseta switches, among others. Well, also dimming aside I suppose.

[@Victor-cx6xf]

10:13 It must be magic. I checked, it's brute-force scanning the network ( github.com/reloxx13/TasmoAdmin/blob/da5ddc214168abbb0ff3148501673f546b23a196/tasmoadmin/includes/Sonoff.php#L956 ) which at first seemed rather brutal, but it seems that mDNS is optional in tasmota ( github.com/arendst/Tasmota/issues/4793 ).

[@DrZzs]

So it ISN'T magic?!? :(

[@Kosh42EFG]

Auto-discover what now!?! You mean no more setting up MQTT switches in HAS and rebooting? Awesomeness. Now, will it tempt me away from ESPHome? Quick Q before I trawl for an answer: Anyone know if R19 is the resistor to short on the UK version? And a tip - DO NOT SOLDER PIN HEADERS. Guess who has to de-solder them after flashing to put the switch back together tonight. Doh!

[@randomguynumber88]

Hey, I might be late to the party here, and I hope your switches are up and running beautifully, I can confirm that R19 is the correct location on the UK version as I have moments ago used exactly that to flash my new TX T0 (T1UK Board). By the way, if you did get it all up and running, did you happen to learn which GPIO pins it uses to control each relay and each LED on the front panel?

[@Kosh42EFG]

Afraid I still failed to get Tasmota auto-discover to work on this or any other device. I think the issue is with something deep seated in my much updated, botch-it-as-I-go HA install. Tempted to start from scratch, but unsure of the effect on WAF if we go back to teething issues long ago resolved. Back on ESPHome for now.

[@TNW1337]

I can confirm OtA does not WORK OtA will not worked I just bricked my T2. You should add a warning to your other GUIDE. shakes head.

[@willhutcheon4144]

Definitely not as cool as ' Zzzzs