WILL 307 GEARS SPIN?

[@FilamentFriday]

I say go for it but print on a raft to take up the unevenness you had in thee bed. You could also add horizontal expansion to make the handle spin easier.

[@RegularOldDan]

I think this sounds like a great idea. Never a better time to use a raft than in this case.

[@PeritusGamingTV]

Wouldn't a raft be absolute pain in the *** to losen from the gears, and also the tight tolerance between the gear and spindle would mean it needs to be 100% cleaned from scraps from the raft. I've never had luck with rafts or supports 100% perfectly releasing the models.

[@-AT-WALKER]

@@PeritusGamingTV Chep had some settings for rafts/supports a while back and they worked spot on for me, prints peel off with minimum cleanup being needed👍 For anybody else reading this- remember to back-up your profiles to an external or the cloud regularly. Lost all my profiles whilst in the process of doing a long overdue full system back-up🙄 losing work was a kick in the teeth but losing the profiles compiled from a couple years of tutorials, tinkering and trial and error... that kick was felt lower down!

[@brunodherrera]

he's not using support blocker for the handle to be 100% infill and it will break again anyways...

[@Jacopopsen]

The fact the print removal was edited to rick roll us was painful and glorious at the same time!! Lovely easter egg :D

[@fancy_owo]

I was wondering if that was what was going on lmao

[@mr.mastor]

You should definitely print a new one, and to make sure the bed is level print a small part of the model in each of the 4 corners and see if they all spin loosely enough just to be sure.

[@ArneSchwarck]

No, you need to have a really strong stock. Go for it again. And don't forget the PTFE spray to make it turn much better

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

I think, for a bed that big, you need mesh leveling even if it's glass. The tolerances in that part are already small and any warp/wave in the plate will eat them up fast. You're not wrong on the shiny/silk filaments. They are definitely weaker in Z than the rest. Points to you if you get this both functional and shiny.

[@brandonbrown3600]

This. Manually level to the best you can then run ABL to have it perfect. So many folks just won't run ABL as if it's a bad thing. But when used proper makes things like this print possible with less failure.

[@thirtythreeeyes8624]

As long as it's quality glass it should be fine. He should have dynamically leveled.

[@mr702s]

No, just an ATP5 plate bed. Assuming the machine is well made & calibrated.

[@zdanee]

Yeah, try again! I want to hear what 307 unlubricated plastic gears turning sounds like!

[@davydatwood3158]

This video has really helped me articulate a thought that's been lurking in the back of my head for a while. Basically, there seems to me to be a desire in the 3d printing community to have the printer do as much as possible when building an object. Whether it's trying to make a static object into a single print, or to have a moving object like this one be print-in-place, it feels like that's a major goal for much of the community. And yet, as this video shows, that's often not a good idea; not if the goal is to actually have the object. Now, I realise that the goal here was not, in fact, to have the 307 gear object. The goal was to see if Joel could tune in a massive printer tightly enough to do this large of a print-in-place. That's a worthy goal in and of itself: for most of us this is a hobby and hobbies are about messing around with things and having fun! It's also a way of pushing forward the technology and capability of even the hobby printers, and I can certainly imagine that for some objects, print-in-place would be the simpler if not the only way to manufacture it. But this video also, I think, illustrates that for some things, print-in-place or single print is not actually the best approach. If one actually wanted the 307 gear object, printing the frame, the gears, and a set of connector pins would have taken a bit longer, and required more work on Joel's end to actually assemble everything; but it also would have much more reliably resulted in a working device. In other words, I think there's a line between "I want this thing" and "I want to see if I can do this" that sometimes gets blurred. And then the classic "if all you have is a hammer" problem pops up, and abruptly everyone is trying to 3d print *everything* instead of just buying some screws from Home Depot. But I enjoyed this, and it also showcases Joel's strongest attribute: a spirit of exploration and enjoying the experience of just *trying* stuff to see what happens!

[@evangill5563]

"there seems to me to be a desire in the 3d printing community to have the printer do as much as possible when building an object." If you are interested in this topic, research design for manufacturing. For small batches, your point is valid that using standardized screws and components may be a better solution. For manufacturing medium-large batches, print in place requires less labor and fewer additional parts, significantly reducing price and making production easier to scale. Print in place helps develop 3d printing into a (more) viable medium-large batch manufacturing method.

[@davydatwood3158]

@@evangill5563 That's a good point. And I think I kind of grazed the edge of what you're saying when I noted that projects like this push the overall technology forward. But I do think at the hobby level, we all (I include myself) get sucked into the idea of printing *everything* even when it's not always the optimal solution.

[@satibel]

Yeah usually, at least for me, using threaded rods and small printed parts is much easier and faster than printing a single thing. It does require assembly, so for bigger batches it might not be as useful.

[@JL-pc2eh]

It can be easyer to hit tight tolerances with printing everything at once. You often don't have to messure anything which is a big plus. (If it fits or works it is perfect)

[@omelaurus]

Go for it Joel!! Btw good to see that even a seasoned 3D printer like you has issues calibrating.

[@josebonilla2253]

Joe is not a 3D printer!

[@omelaurus]

@@josebonilla2253 hahaha, I figured someone who prints 3D stuff is a 3D printer.. maybe I should have called him the 3D printer operator guru guy 👍

[@qwertyentertainment3349]

3D printerer

[@Engineezy]

Love the video! Definitely worth trying it again! We gotta see what 307 spinning gears looks like 😮 Thanks for taking the challenge on without flinching, might be more coming your way 🤓😎

[@-lolus-]

nice rickroll , took me a minute to realize this

[@tuckerfarce]

No more spiders running toward the camera, please. 🤪

[@jonahplayscello]

No Edit: i think that you should try to print the new model

[@Standbackforscience]

As someone who designs functional prints mostly, I have to say that I've become quite unenthusiastic about print-in-place - for me almost all PIP designs are gimmicks or toys, they look interesting and prove that your printer is well tuned, etc, but I have yet to see one that is solid and functional. I once designed a few PIP hinges, and after putting them into use, found that they failed quickly. I redesigned, keeping the same proportions but as separate parts joined with bolts, and the hinges are robust and hold up after heavy use and strain. My 2 cents - people should do whatever is fun for them of course.

[@seville2k]

What a Rick Roll.

[@_Neutrino]

i havent seen a comment about it but is anyone going to talk about the fact that when he was peeling it, he rick rolled us?

[@Aidenn23]

😜 it was all Joel’s idea too. I said “how should we montage this bed removal?” His immediate response was “let’s make it a rick roll”

[@morrielewin1554]

Real world engineering; Make, Break, Make, Break, Make... WORK! Don't give up on the first try; anything ambitious gets effort matching the complexity. The world is watching! (grin) Besides, this will be awesome (and noisy) when it works.

[@jonhchorizo9555]

Mr. 3-D printing nerd I don’t know how else to get in touch with you but I was going to ask you could you please review the new Creality spider hot end Claims you can go 500 C and it’s only 50 bucks on Amazon I’ve already purchased it I did a Pages tuning but I don’t see any software or anything to update for software for it maybe you could Review it and do a video

[@JB-wu3zq]

Urmahgurd! Yes please try again! Personally, calibrating sucks eggs but... You've been challenged, you accepted, gotta see to completion, especially if there has been an updated version! 😄

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

Fun watch. Gear ratio is how the wind powered car exceeded the speed of the wind.

[@hobbyistnetwork]

THE ANSWER: NO ...but if you print them in white they can double as a Christmas decoration

[@trioxys1841]

Is nobody gonna mention the fact that when Joel was taking the print off the bed we got rick rolled by the editing????

[@shotgun161]

You should show us how you like to tune your printer!

[@willeykev]

Joel ... Dude ... need you ask? LOL!! Of Course you need to give it the ole college try once again with the updated design!! Yeaaaaaaaa!!!!!

[@kitalthevali]

anyone else notice that when he was removing the print from the build plate it was cut so it sounds like a rick roll?

[@drdanny3900]

Did I really just get rick rolled with a part being removed from a printer?

[@necrogami1]

Did you just rickroll us with the sound of taking that off the build plate?

[@talbizle]

Thanks for the free T-shirt from the last big giveaway. I absolutely love it! ❤️

[@golm95]

This might be the most subtle Rick Roll of all Rick Rolling History!!

[@evil_duck_de]

Yes! You should definitely try it again. And please do a video about your levelling process. I'd really be interested in which hardware you're using for it. BLTouch?

[@scootersfrog]

id drop 6 gears and make the center gear much much bigger ...

[@MakingStuff]

Go for It!

[@jelle123123]

Great video! The satisfying sound of getting a print of a plate is soooooo good. I have that with twist, peel supports from resin prints. Always try again for success.

[@pacmancoder]

Am I just got unexpectedly rickrolled?

[@erlandjohansen7195]

Go fo it again, I would love to see this print succeed! Don't know if my Ender 5 Plus could do this, even with all the upgrades...

[@AntiVectorTV]

Interesting to see an entire 10 minute video for "no, it won't spin."

[@TheShinSaber]

Nicely hidden rick role👍🏻

[@Aidenn23]

Thanks! 😂

[@dominick253]

It worked no prob Definitely redo it

[@3DMusketeers]

Cool video! SO SATISFYING! Let's see it again! Maybe some glass or something would help?

[@pinaz993]

I scrolled down to the comments to see people who were scared by 2:08. I was disapointed.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

THAT SPIDER IS SO CUTE!

[@gordon4169]

Did I just get Rick rolled?

[@susedianinso]

Is that an LTT Water Bottle ? :D

[@Latubiful]

You had to rickroll ja eh?

[@Bwana]

REDO IT JOEL! PLEASE OMG I MUST KNOW. hehe, but yeah, do it.

[@ezrarichardson279]

WHY DID HE RICKROLL US?!

[@minecrafthackpro123]

I would usually say no but this is 3D printing nerd so maybe

[@Bry-gn7kb]

IT'S A RICKROLL!!!

[@ElectroBlep]

You asked us to comment at the beginning, so I'm going to guess that it will work. Either functionally, or it will be a fun process which in a way is the video working even if the print doesn't. So, High-5! either way. :)

[@BjoernAndreas]

Yes, please print it again! 🥳👏

[@fusionviper7682]

Did I just het Rick Rolled by a 3D print

[@Aidenn23]

Yup!

[@tvathome562]

Very impressive that you have got the bed that level! Would be really great full if you did get it really level, if you would teach us please (the bed level is like in a game/film were an end of level boss turns out to be the ultimate boss at the end of game/movie, determined to thwart your progress)

[@TheEpicAmerica]

Was that rick roll when he tool it off the bed??

[@Aidenn23]

Yup!

[@marcelisler8145]

Not sure if the printer can do a bed mesh... I'm printing on 350x350 on a jig plate (with a WhamBam Flex Plate) and the bed mesh can handle the discrepancy in the flatness of the jig plate. Though my printer can handle 0.01mm Z movement without Z backlash, which helps a lot with a bed mesh.

[@jackstewart2221]

I printed the one from JVB for 27 gears on my Prusa Mini. It is 14 hr print. When finished let cool and carefully remove from the build plate. Some of the gears will be stuck. (CAREFULLY) take a pair of long nose pliers and slowly rotate the gear back & forth. When all gears are loose, slowly work the turn knob back & forth till you get a full rotation. You will have to carefully break it in, give it a shot top and bottom WD40 and continue to break in. It will be very smooth once broke in and a great print model. Go for it, it can be done.

[@Obico-io]

Yes! Do it again! The bed removal was so satisfying! So sad it didn’t work! I have to see it work Gmax size!

[@fernandomeneghetti]

May be too late but I don't think it will work even with a new design. Each gear introduces friction to the system. 307 gears I would guess (haven't done the actual calculation, too much for an internet comment) is more than the strength of the PLA layers. Meaning, even if you had everything set up perfectly and the model design was great, there would still have enough friction that would require more torque on the handle than the material could take.

[@NicMediaDesign]

Getting it off the build plate was painful to watch - get a FilaPrint surface and you can just pick it up when it cools off.

[@justsomeguywashwd_jbm821]

I wouldn't mind seeing you have a go at the updated version of the 307 gears. On a separate note Joel, there's 1 model I've seen on your set that I keep meaning to ask you about, but kept forgetting. I was hoping you could provide a link either to a vid you did about it or the source for it for that black & white city-inside-an-egg model you have sitting on 1 of your shelves.

[@ualdayan]

What about trying it on a resin printer able to resolve to much smaller details? Sure it wouldn't be as large, but even hundreds of smaller gears would still be interesting - and you could use a nylon-like or even a flexible resin that would be more durable like Siraya Tenacious. (or even mix and match elastic/flexible with hard until you get the 'just right' material properties to turn and not break)

[@woogaloo]

All I heard was, "I'm gonna try reprinting this." Would be cool to see it printed again. Unrelated, but I think I'm going to sell my ANYCUBIC Predator and buy something smaller in scale like the Prusa

[@HavoCentral]

Flexible build plate for sure. The model also needs something above all the gears connecting all of the arms for stability. Then 3-4 perimeters and 20% cubic infill for strength. You got this!!

[@corentin_mnjln]

Is it me or we are just rickrolled at 5:50?

[@Aidenn23]

Sure did

[@The-Weekend-Warrior]

You need to be there for the first 2 layers and make sure they don't touch and the layers are not squished on each other.... sadly, this sounds like hours of fun :D But YES, DO MAKE IT!

[@Mystical_Zeus]

You should do a video on tuning a machine for specific things like.being too close or too far and how to fix it like you did. How to fix over or under extruding or anything like that. I specifically have had an issue with my print in place katana fusing the blades to themselves at spots throughout the print where sometimes you get sections that move and others that are totally frozen. It's mainly at the blade transitions and I don't think I have oozing or have it printing too hot to cause anything like that.

[@DARTHPLATITUDE]

Please do….. so exciting and so disappointing to see it not work….. I put down my coffee and said "nooooo" with raised eyebrows and sadness…. We would love to see you succeed….. please try again and give us some hope…. Or at least the ones crying in the fetal position in our 3d print closets…… lol

[@johnm.gerard1718]

I want you to try to print ithis large gear model on the RailCore II 300ZLT if you still have this printer. Since this printer has so fine detail and the bed is physically level not just level with a probe. I'd like to see if the printer is worth the money.

[@Russwig]

I have stopped supporting you because I am tired of seeing useless prints. Practical printing will advance the devices, not useless multi gear self indulgence. Just fighting for a cause I believe in...

[@joearchuleta7538]

I say go for it one more time, this was fun thanks for sharing!!! Using the silk filament, up your temp to max suggest my the MFG and it will be shiner and stronger for most brands!

[@ChrisHarmon1]

Time for Voron 2.4 or Trident. The 2.4 really is magical compared to the 10+ other printers I've tried. Just need to ensure the bed is one of the flatter ones available.

[@CharlesVanNoland]

I thoroughly dis-enjoyed that CGI spider character that ran up. My instinctual fear kicked in before it even ran up into focus and said hi. I know it's a character from somewheres and I don't care for it, AHHHHHHHH! Now I feel like there's spiders all around me here in the dark at my computer. They're just watching me, waiting to strike.

[@nijram15]

The gears are just too small. The friction is very big. Every gear will deform the structure a small bit and the gears will lock. The model needs to have larger gears and a more rigid structure holding the gears.

[@NotAnRCExpert]

I would try to remove the welded spots with V-slot mill in Dremel prior to wasting another filament. Thats one or two layers that welded. Handle can glued. One failed gear cam be replaced.

[@vroomvroom4061]

I have not touched the play button but I will guess no because an odd number of gears will at some point, two gears next to each other will try to spin clockwise ( or counterclockwise), resulting in a snag

[@spokehedz]

I think that getting the GMax to "True Level" would have a TON of benefits in the long term, and I also think the newer model would help.

[@kcbrandao3802]

Naw no need to reprint it at this time. Maybe a smaller version. But that is a lot of time and product on something that is very far off from final form. The handle looks like it would shear off just from the force needed to turn all of them.

[@Defender513]

So I noticed when you were standing in your hallway I saw your alarm siren or doorbell cover is turning yellow. You should 3D print a new cover for it and make it look cool !

[@martinschipper9724]

To bad it didnt workout well enough.. getting a level bed still hard to achieve especially on a large bed. Maybe its worth the time to completely dial is in with a Dial indicator

[@Monocle13]

I have printed 2 of the dagger print in place for my son. He broke both within 20 minutes mind you he is three and didn't listen when I told him to stab not slice lol

[@chrisearley2355]

What do you do with all your failed prints? I have multiple tubs of pla but no idea what do do with it? And recycling to make my own is to costly.

[@AbdurrahmanAllahem]

Yes, print version 2. But, but, use a dual extruder printer and use a PVA filament as support. Then soak the print in water.

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

I look forward to another test on this. Better invest in a bed tramming sensor first and tram the bed while it's hot - such large buildplates *will* warp!

[@ThePrintHouse]

Joel of course it's going to print!!

[@brunodherrera]

doesn't matter if the creator thickens the handle you will not print it 100% infill, you genius....

[@alextutusaus]

This would be a nice first massive layer test for the Prusa XL... Do you take the challenge Joel?

[@x_ph1l]

Maybe try to use G10 or FR4 build plate next time to have easier time lifting your print off of the plate.

[@AkopianDIY]

you have very interesting work) Look how we use 3D printing) we made a matchbox made of gold printed on a 3D printer)

[@trinityellis4551]

Speaking of big, you forgot to show us that really big one that you printed. We can see part of it on the right of the screen at 10:28.

[@dgamble45]

You were challenged to do it you failed. You are not a quiter so yes you have to do it again, otherwise what lessons are you teaching us lol 😆

[@sliverbaer]

That plate is huge. You should try to get it level anyway, right? Anything else you print on it will benefit. Testing it with the gears just makes it more fun.

[@bwselectronic]

The bigger it is the better chance of a problem. I have faith. I think it will work. Maybe🤣🤣

[@jacobrollins37]

307 gears? Are you out of your mind? Only you know the answer. I hope the answer is yes. Lol

[@eideticex]

Not enough information to make an informed guess. 307 gears but they could be any arrangement.

[@tomb3782]

I only have one thing to say "T=F/A", it will work as long as you have enough torque to move it.

[@1987jaffa]

Depends on the printer i guess. Fail would be bad advertisement though, so i'd say work.

[@prestongriffin416]

could a camera be use on a 3d printer the same as they use it on a laser? just wondering yes print another never quit.

[@badwolf5245]

Wouldn't all of the friction from the gears make it impossible to turn anyways?

[@enrilopez]

The gear model reminds me of the Machine with concrete model at the MIT museum ,just amazing

[@spherelance72]

Hmm should you try again.... Yes I need to see the mutant snowflake/octopus turn

[@Trevor_Fuss]

Tune, Tune and Tune and try again. You don't want to be known as the Nerd who was beaten by a print in place

[@henryhbk]

Might be worth putting on multiple profiles where the shaft of the handle has many perimeters

[@itsboyinspace]

That looks so crazy on the printer