Will 5W30 oil damage my Toyota (2GRFE)?

[@robertwilson5615]

Really good investigation. Thanks. BTW, it's not engineers that chose the 0W-20, it's the people on mahogany row trying to squeeze more MPG. For me, I'd use 0W-20 during cold weather (I'm in NH) and 5W-30 in warm.

[@doublebase6509]

Agreed…and I’m surprised to find that more and more people are starting to realize that the engineers are not making major decisions in the auto industry. Warranty plays a roll and government regulations plays a huge roll. Then there’s advertising, cost of the vehicle and marketing. All this^^^has to be factored in to any findings/suggestions engineers have.

[@sheepdog3828]

All about the CAFE numbers, spot on. This has nothing to do with engineering, but the karens fail at looking at the bigger picture. Karens, please be autodidactic. Stop being one.

[@vlxneutron2835]

I am currently using 5w30 in 2016 Highlander...5 flows at -35 F so how cold is new Hampshire...I'm in NJ and have only seen -7...You may try Mobil 1 0w30 AFE dexos 1 gen 3 for winter months

[@gregorymalchuk272]

The low tension piston rings will hydroplane on thicker oil. The only thing you can do is keep clean oil in them.

[@EvzenKovar-i5p]

If my rig didn’t have a TSB on low tension ring oil consumption problems I’d switch. I’m going to stick with 0W20 and change frequently.

[@ChrisPatrick-q6k]

I'm running 5w/40 in an engine that GM says requires 5w/30. The same engine their dealers were filing with 10w/40 or even 15w/40 20 years ago.

[@jeffkearney7491]

Thank you for sharing all the factual information you found. So many videos provide opinions not facts. I have a 2009 Avalon with nearly 190,000 miles. Always changed oil with 5w-30 synthetic (cheapest I can find) with a quality filter at 5000 miles religiously. Runs like the day I bought it as far as I can tell. Oil appears to be at the same level at which is was at the oil change. Crazy thing is when I check the oil before the next change, the oil is still relatively clean. Still has the original spark plugs. Average gas mileage between 26 to 28, higher on a road trip. Thank you again.

[@doublebase6509]

Thanks for the comment. I feel as if the Avalons are perhaps the most reliable vehicles on the road today. I work in this industry, it’s pretty rare that I see cars like these. You might want to consider changing those plugs before winter, that sounds like a misfire waiting to happen…but then again with these cars you’ll probably be fine.

[@sheepdog3828]

Tje car care nut channel, recommends plug change out at 100k+ or six years. To keep plugs threads from galling. I did our 2014 4rnr at eight years with 90k. They looked good. But as a career maintenance guy, I look at longevity and reliability, long term. I never wait to the ragged edge of components to replace.

[@jeffkearney7491]

@@sheepdog3828 Thank you for your response and I understand your concern. However we just had the original spark plugs changed in my daughter’s 2002 Camry v6 150,000 miles. That’s 22 years. The only reason we had them changed is because the valve cover gaskets were starting to leak and we figured since he had to take the valve covers and the intake off we may as well do the plugs too. The rear ones are very difficult to get to otherwise. The car runs the same as it did with the old plugs.The mechanic didn’t say anything about the plugs being difficult to remove when I asked him how the job went.Thanks.

[@ocean694]

Thanks, I switched to 5w30 at around 50K miles for my Sienna. The car runs quieter, smoother and accelerates much better. I will never go back to 0w20.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah I don’t think I’m going back to the 0W20 again either

[@Stutterstun]

@@doublebase6509 did it affect the mpg?

[@doublebase6509]

@@Stutterstun no, not at all.

[@Stutterstun]

@@doublebase6509 I appreciate the quick response

[@Stutterstun]

@@doublebase6509 Thanks, I appreciate the response

[@sheepdog3828]

I will download the video because of all the specs you referenced. All other channels run on emotions and 'engineers know best'.

[@tommason5689]

Wow, I am surprised how much research you have done on this topic. Your research is what I needed to feel comfortable about using 0W-20 on my 2007 ES350 with 2GFRE engine. I just received four 5qrt Kirkland oil shipment from Costco, which tested as good as any other more expensive brands by Project Farm. I actually meant to order 5W-30 as the manual calls for but I accidentally clicked wrong one and received 0W-20 instead. So I was wondering if it would be ok to use lower viscosity oil, which brought me to this video. Thankfully you had all the information I needed to feel comfortable about using 0W-20. Basically it seems to me whether you use 0W-20 or 5W-30, it should not make a whole lot of difference, which is why Toyota engineers specify different grade oil on exactly same engine. What concerned me the most is whether 0W-20 would cause more wear than 5W-30. But, based on your test results, it does not seem to. So I am just going to stick with 0W-20 I got instead of going through the hassle of returning it and getting an exchange. Thanks a lot for providing so much valuable in-depth information I was looking for!!!

[@doublebase6509]

I’m awaiting results on my latest interval using Amsoil 5W30, I’ll compare the results vs the 0W20 in my next video. If I had to guess I’d say the results will be very similar.

[@tommason5689]

@@doublebase6509 Perfect! I look forward to seeing the result. It would be very interesting to see. Thanks for letting me know.

[@lorenray9479]

Update! 0ver 21 mpg on 5w30 full syn. Barrymans b12 going on 3 tanks. A total intake clean and a sealed catch can with only 1 tbl spoon oil captured so far at 37,000 miles. My exhaust pipe is so clean now! Accelleration is much better. Coastal hill and city driving. Very quiet engine now! I also cleaned pcv valve.

[@Doomzdayxx]

Bought a '23 4Runner earlier this year. Immediately dumped out what was in there and filled her up with 5W30 synthetic. Have been doing 3k mile intervals (which some would argue is excessive). Anyway,. if my engine blows up, then I will admit defeat and never deviate from factory recommendation.

[@kurojack6874]

It won't. I've been running 5w30 (and currently M1 0w40) in my '18 4Runner SR5 going on 60K miles now. Total mileage at 109K. Engine is doing very well.

[@Vultain]

As long as the main bearing clearance is good then the rest doesn’t matter.

[@rdspam]

“Some”?

[@robertrpenny]

That 0w40 sounds like a great idea. Should keep the OP up.

[@Doomzdayxx]

@@robertrpenny i'm a little skittish about going up to a 40 weight, I must admit. I think 5W30 is a good in-between. much better protection than 0 weights but not too thick to possibly interfere with the cam phasers. on my '00 Camry, I use 10W40 in warmer months and back to 5W30 for winter

[@brendonharkness7232]

Interesting post thanks. I have a 2013 2GRFE that had been a sales car so lots of highway mileage in its first few years. I run it on 10w-30 with changes every 7,000 miles and it’s now on 230,000 miles and still runs smooth and doesn’t burn a drop.

[@doublebase6509]

I swear these are some of the best engines ever made.

[@jor8061]

Changed my Toyotas to 0w-30 for better protection. Good compromise. Had an old Toyota 4.7 that required 5w-30 and began using 0w-30. Engine ran great and seemed a little smoother on hard acceleration. It would burn a little oil, especially when towing heavy but that was only about 1/2 quart between oil changes which is considered normal. So I like 0w-30. Thank you for posting your research.

[@doublebase6509]

That’s my next oil! 0W30 Mobil 1 ESP. Can’t beat the once at Walmart right now - this used to be a somewhat hard to get/expensive oil - now it’s a readily available 30% PAO with European approvals and certifications, available right off the shelves for $28 bucks a five quart jug. I’ll take that.

[@763supra]

Thanks for confirming that I can switch to 0W20 oil for winter use here in Minnesota. I was not sure if there were any engine differences on 2GRFE. I'm the opposite of you, switching from 5W30 to 0w20(winter only). I have a 2007 Sienna 2GR V6.

[@doublebase6509]

Nice. But I must say, the research I did was more along the lines for me. If you bump it down to 0W20, depending on your mileage situation, keep an eye on it. They say that going down in viscosity is more of a risk than going up. Let me know how it goes.

[@HersheyRoseX]

What if he did a 0w-30 instead? Winter performance and operating temp protection!

[@markwarnberg9504]

@@HersheyRoseX I live in Sweden where it sometimes get´s down to -30c, use a 5w30 oil which is good for -35c. Car has 160,000km on it.....never had a start up problem.

[@jonp6347]

Thanks for thi video I have a 2010 highlander iam using 5w30 replacing oil every 4000 mile with oem filter.

[@doublebase6509]

Nice vehicle! Think you’re making a good decision on your maintenance.

[@lorenray9479]

My toyotaco burned oil. Apx 33,000 miles. Holy what? Soot in exhaust. 14 mpg. Gas cleaner, intake clean. New air filter. Motor flush. Upped to 5w30. 3000 miles later. 17.4 mpg. No soot in exhaust. Super quiet and smooth running now. Always 3000 mil oil changes max.

[@doublebase6509]

I’m wondering what Toyota engine that is…if I had to guess I’d say the 2.5 2AR-FE. Known oil burner and design flaw.

[@lorenray9479]

2.7 l 4 cy

[@chief1193]

0w20 is nothing but CAFE regulations. No difference in the engines. Those engines are used over seas and they recommend oil all the way up to 15w40 and so does the service manual.

[@doublebase6509]

Agreed, CAFE regulations are the only reason this engine is spec’d for a 0W20, and quite honestly, the only reason for ISLAC GF6 (A/B).

[@jason200912]

Just to note they make it very clear not to use the thick winter ratings in 0 degree or lower weather on their graphs

[@Fred-F4]

Great content! Thanks for making the comparison. I want to make a similar decision on a 2014 Honda K24Z7 engine and if the clearances are the same then I will be confident to switch to 5w30. Specially because I am in a moderate/hot climate

[@doublebase6509]

Some interesting comments on the engine in this thread. bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/honda-vs-acura-k24-oil-specs.275701/ I own an older K series engine in a CRV and that thing is LOUD. Always ran a 5w20 in it, but reading the comments in this thread, doesn’t look like it’ll make a difference. I’ll check the valve adjustments…haven’t done it in a while…probably needs another one.

[@dogdooley4495]

I switched to 5W30 in all of my cars. 2.5 Mazda GDI, Chevy 5.3 GDI and Toyota port injected 3MZ-FE which calls for 5w30. I noticed quieter operation immediately. I may try a 40 weight when towing in the chevy. Higher viscosity reduces wear.

[@HEELMACHINE]

I started driving in the 80’s and the 3k oil changes were the norm. Conventional oil is what I ever heard anyone using. Since then I have maintained the 3k oil change intervals. I just can’t see myself going 10k

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah, 10,000 is a bit much for some. 3,000 is the other end of the spectrum for others

[@truth959]

N America is the only place in the world that uses 0W20 to boost fuel efficiency. Everywhere else uses 5W30.

[@turo3066]

Thanks for sharing this my friend! I have been nervous about the durability of my 2021 Avalon. I immediately ditched the extended OCI because I live in a mountainous, cold climate and my daily commute is less than 15 minutes each way. I do 5k full synthetic myself. I'm at 36k miles and I want to keep this practical luxury tank until the wheels fall off. I'm going to switch to 5w-30.

[@doublebase6509]

I think it’s a great idea not to extend your intervals with your commute. That’s the thing with oil change intervals, there’s so many factors that go into each individual’s commute/car/engine.

[@kennethward4985]

You might want to switch to 0w-30 in a freezing climate.

[@twinforce_fusion6560]

I have a 2020 Rav4 (2.5L non-hybrid), I use 0W-16 for Winter and 0W-20 for Summer. Still very low mileage on it (under 20,000 miles). I think I will bumb to the Amsoil 0W30 SS after 60K and do the 0W20 for Winter. The Fusion TT I only use the Ams 5W-30 SS. all year long. My old Dakota with the 3.7, even if it's 5W-20 from factory, since 2015 (after Warranty), been using 5W30 (currently at 155K). I grew up from a time that Winter = 5W-30 and Summer = 10W30.

[@doublebase6509]

It’s unreal that we’ve now not only gone to 0W16, but now are headed to 0W8 for Toyota and Mazda Hybrids. When you shake the bottle it actually sounds like there’s water in there instead of oil. I wonder what’s next? 0W4 or a 0W0? They must know what they’re doing, but it just seems very strange to me.

[@kennethward4985]

I would go 0w-30 in summer.

[@tundras4ever552]

Bought a new Camry that used 0w16 and the first thing I did at 1000 miles was dump it and use 0w20. Same thing I did on my v8 tundra that calls for 0w20 I dumped that and have been running 5w30 for about 50k miles now and absolutely zero issues

[@jor8061]

Changed my Toyotas to 0w-30 for better protection. Good compromise. Had an old Toyota 4.7 that required 5w-30 and began using 0w-30. Engine ran great and seemed a little smoother on hard acceleration. It would burn a little oil, especially when towing heavy but that was only about 1/2 quart between oil changes which is considered normal. So I like 0w-30.

[@doublebase6509]

0w30 is my next oil…most likely Mobil1 ESP

[@tomtom1541]

Better off using 0w-40 or 5w-40. That way it won't burn any oil.

[@doublebase6509]

@@tomtom1541 I’m not burning any oil but I’m coming darn close to just using Mobil1 0W40 FS, it’s too good of a bargain to pass up.

[@vadimsayenko7143]

Thank you for your input. Please let us know how this oil did. I use AMSOIL 0-20 for this exact engine with 218K miles and I will bump it up if I’m absolutely sure that it serves it better. This engine starting in 2013 is the gen III and the main concern now is cold start effects on the VVTI system. Thank you again!!!

[@doublebase6509]

Honestly, based on my used oil analysis of the 0W20, the 0W20 does look like it does a very good job, and I’m not sure how the 5W30 could beat that. But I’ll find out in 5-6 months when I send the 5W30 in for another sample. I’ll report back, but looking at those wear metals on the 0W20 (it’s going to be tough to beat).

[@jimn.9990]

I use the Amsoil SS 0W-20 in my 2016 Camry Hybrid that and Amsoil SS 5W-30 in my 2013 Subaru Tribeca (as well as Amsoil SS ATF and Amsoil Gear Oils). These Amsoil lubricants are "100% Synthetic" (without containing a drop of "hydrocracked petroleum," but conversely "hydrocracked petroleum" is used as a main ingredient in the majority of "Full Synthetic Lubricants). These Amsoil Lubricants deliver more power to my vehicles (who wouldn't want that), gives my vehicles increased gas mileage, helps quiet engine noise and extends the length of time or mileage between oil changes. There are verified customers of Amsoil (who have temperature guages in their vehicles) claiming that their vehicles run cooler with Amsoil (as an additional bonus). Since 100% Synthetic Lubricants (a combination of PAOs & Esters) don't contain any petroleum, they are much less likely to have oxygen molecules attach to their molecular backbone of these lubricants, compared to petroleum and hydrocracked petroleum, which contain much more of these oxygen molecules that in turn attracts sludge formation. Amsoil SS 0W-20 oil has a Pour Point of -63 F, whereas Amsoil SS 5W-30 oil has a Pour Point of -58 F (not that much of a difference). Another benefit of these Amsoil oils are a rapid flow through the engine maintaining proper lubricating properties which is due in part to their equal-sized molecules & a lack of undesirable contaminants (found in petroleum and hydrocracked petroleum) allowing less friction. Less friction means less heat, greater efficiency (in terms of gas mileage), more power and more circulation through the engine. A typical 0W-20 oil will flow through an engine more rapidly than a typical 5W-30 oil, so a 0W-20 will help dissipate heat better than a 5W-30.

[@gzhang207]

The general understanding is to use thinner (or Toyota recommended) oil in the winter and the thicker oil in the summer. If you are in southern states, there is probably no difference if you use the same thicker oil all year around. Your suggestion of using thicker oil for aging engines makes sense too. The trend is Toyota is using even thinner oil, e.g. 0w-16 for newer cars. Why do they do this considering global warming?

[@doublebase6509]

I did consider using (or sticking with) the 0W20 for the winter months, but I decided to run the 5W30 right through the winter. I don’t think it’ll be a problem because the difference between the 5W and 0W at zero degrees is minimal, and where I am it rarely ever gets bellow -10 degrees. At worst my cold temp startups will maybe hit 15 degrees once or twice (I have a garage). Regarding the 0W16, I believe Toyota is now introducing the 0W8 oil (I’m nit sure for what applications, maybe hybrid). But the lighter weight oils were introduced to improve fuel economy, and therefore reduce the carbon footprint of the car manufacturer. The manufacturer is required to produce a certain number of fuel efficient vehicles in their lineup to comply with corporate average fuel economy regulations (CAFE regulations). They’ll try all sorts of things to get themselves within parameters for those regulations, because if they don’t, they’ll be heavily fined. It’s a driving force behind the industry.

[@jimn.9990]

@@doublebase6509 Amsoil SS 0W-20 oil has a Pour Point of -63 F, whereas Amsoil SS 5W-30 oil has a Pour Point of -58 F (not that much of a difference).

[@deborahallsbury1175]

I have a new 3rd gen. Tacoma 3.5 and I'm running Mobile 1 advanced fuel economy 0w30. I live in Arizona so I wanted the 0w30 to protect in the hot summer's and still be great if I went to cold climates in the winter.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah, I think that’s a good idea. I may try that myself.

[@markwarnberg9504]

Why a 0w? it doesn´t get that cold down there! With temps getting up to 110f I´d think you would want a 40 weight for better protection.

[@doublebase6509]

@@markwarnberg9504yeah, you have a good point. I try to stay away from a wide spread in viscosity if I personally can because I try to avoid viscosity index improvers in oil (because they can lead to sludge), but if the company is using a good base stock (and I imagine Mobil1 is), it shouldn’t be an issue.

[@markwarnberg9504]

@@doublebase6509 All Full Synthetic Oils are Group3 with a Viscosity Index of around 160 - 180 so I would not worry about the quality. It´s the heat shearing I think about...particularly with Turbos, the oil gets pretty hot, you do not want to loose lubrication from too much break down. 5w30 seems to be the Universal Year Round Oil, but in hot climates of 40c+ you are pushing the limits of the oils 30 weight V I. To prevent Sludge from too much additives one can do as in the old day´s...Sommer oil 10w40 and winter oil 5w30. Of course keeping the oil clean will do the same thing.

[@wellnesscoach73]

I will be using 5w-40 no question I live in south texas and 5-40 is the minimum for long engine life!!

[@IM7MD-f1u]

Here in saudi owner manual for avalon 2014 20w50 for hot weather and 5w30 for very cold winter many ppl uses 20w50 and reach 500000km easy others use 5w30 and damage engine in Long term use because hot weather and mpg wont effect that much i use 20w50 insted of 5w30 on honda and mpg is same as 5w30 maybe mpg effect on some cars and some cars not 5w20 in my country not recomded on any car manual even in winter sorry if my english is bad

[@doublebase6509]

Interesting and good information. Thanks!

[@whillhern]

My wife has a 2016 Sienna with the 2GRFE, it has 252k miles on it now. Havoline PRO-DS 0W20 every 6-8k miles since its first oil change. Runs like new, gets 24ish mpg, under the valve cover is as clean as new. You can hardly hear it running. Oil level does not change between changes. 0w20 is the way to go in these engines. Those are fairly tight bearing clearances the sooner that oil circulates after start up the better wear protection youll have. My two cents. I like your video. Thanks.

[@doublebase6509]

They are amazing engines! I prefer the 5W30 over the 0W20, but the 0W20 did do well in my oil analysis too. I’m averaging 27.5 mpg in my 2016 Toyota Avalon with 153,000 miles on it. No oil usage between changes, usually do 8,000 to 10,000 miles intervals using Mobil1. Haven’t had the valve covers off yet. I’ve done spark plugs and a serpentine belt. Not one single check engine light or issue with the thing yet. I think it’ll do 300,000 miles easy.

[@dimass.1206]

I own 2014 Highlander with 3.5L Engine 2GR-FE, that was produced in US for Russian market and in the owner's manual 5W-30 oil is recommended one for this engine, moreover there are no mentions about 0W-20, even on the oil filler cap. 10W-40 and 20W-50 also suitable according to the manual.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah and it’s the same engine in this video. I’ve been running the 5W30 for around 60,000 miles now without one single issue…no oil consumption, great oil analysis’s, perfect everything.

[@whlawson5812]

After putting in a new oil & new filter. Try keeping at a fixed 2000 or 2500rpm, in the middle of a road trip for 5 miles in a hot noon. Note down the oil pressure vs rpm vs water temperature or oil temperature. Repeat this just before next oil change. Would you expect an increase of 0.5barg in oil pressure? Then for the next oil change switch back to 0W 20 with a new oil filter and repeat this test. I just made a verification on my newly installed oil pressure gauge for an 18 years old car having done about 129k miles. Holding it at 2400rpm and oil pressure is at 2.4bar for 5W40 oil. Water temperature at 180F. 1barg at 750rpm idling at traffic light. Expecting 0.5q of oil consumption for 6500 miles. For the next new oil change would be 5W30. Regards.

[@thewhitecarrot]

Check out your owners manual. It will spec various grades of oil compliant with your engine based on different operating temperature ranges. 2gr-fks can take up a 15-40.

[@PepperShakka]

I run 5w-30 in both my 2005 Avalon and my 95' Mr2 (2011 Camry 2GR-FE swap) and ive had no issues at 7,200 rpm fro years

[@frankbiz]

Great video! I have a 2008 Highlander with 255k miles and I use fully synthetic oil every 5k miles with 5w30 as specified and when the light comes on. 10k between oil changes is too many miles in my opinion. I often wondered about that what changed inside the engine with the thinner oils. It looks like the only thing that Toyota changed on the 2GRFE engine was the oil cap. Lol

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah I might agree with you on the 10,000 mile intervals. It’s something I usually don’t adhere to, but I am experimenting a bit, and it is their recommended interval for ideal driving conditions (which I do almost qualify for, except for the cold temps, but then again I’m not short tripping in cold temps, it’s all long distance). Good luck with your Highlander! Great vehicles!

[@frankbiz]

@@doublebase6509 thanks, yes they are great. If you do a lot of long trips then yes, you can go longer between oil changes. I just changed my oil, but I wonder if it will be ok to try 0W20 on my next oil change if it's still winter. What do you think, I'm sure it won't hurt?

[@doublebase6509]

@@frankbizprobably be ok, but keep in mind, your engine is spec’d for the 5W30 and now you have a lot of miles on it at 255,000 miles. Going with a lower viscosity might cause some oil consumption, not sure.

[@frankbiz]

@@doublebase6509 I agree, thanks! 👍🏻

[@GameArmorGameplay]

Been using 5w30 Mobil 1 on our 2007 Camry SE V6 since brand new. Toyota switched to 0w20 for mpg reasons.

[@doublebase6509]

How many mikes do you have on it? Love high mileage stories from Toyota V6’s.

[@GameArmorGameplay]

@@doublebase6509 Only 121,000 miles. Original owner.

[@garyganser2451]

Awesome analysis!

[@sohailkhan3812]

Thanks for making video. I have 2013 Avalon am a second owner I bought it in 2022. I also have been using a 5w30 I have no issues with the engine i believe engine runs better.

[@doublebase6509]

They’re great cars! I can’t get over the reliability with these things.

[@jack8356]

You did the right thing

[@SuperMan-uj7dh]

Why would you sacrifice cold start wear protection? 90% of the wear occurs when the engine starts up, regardless of whether it is hot or cold. A 0W-30 would be better. I'm guessing that you will have more wear metals with 5w30. Also, the VVTI issues of these engines were ususally the older ones with 5w30. The gear itself was updated when they changed to 0w20. Maybe you might get the VVTI sound due to thick oil on startup? Idk. I have the same engine in my venza and i never go more than 4000 miles regardless of the oil I use. I used Mobil 1 EP 20000 miles and change it at 4k, recently switched over to Pennzoil Ultra Platinium and the engine noise is considerably reduced. Project Farm did a test and PUP was 2nd, very close and basically a tie with Amsoil. I actually recorded a video after I changed my oil with M1 and PUP, there is a significant difference!

[@doublebase6509]

I understand that 90% of wear occurs upon startup, but keep in mind, you have to start your car (unfortunately), and oil does remain on all metal moving parts even when you shut your engine off, but I agree - engine wear occurs at start up. Regarding the cold starts - 0W protects up to -35 degrees, 5W protects up to -30 degrees. The absolute worst I’ll ever experience in a cold start is 10 degrees (maybe twice a year, max). Car is garaged. The only other start during a day is much later after work, and it’s usually 30 degrees when I do that start. And it’s not about flow, it’s pumpability. The pumpability of both oils when cold is pretty similar. I did consider the 0W30, and I still might use it, BUT the wide spread of a 0W30 will contain more viscosity index improvers, and VII tend to shear and contribute to sludge/deposits. Now, do I think that’s a problem? I’m not sure, kind of doubt it, but it has scared me away from it a tiny bit. Regarding the VVTI system, I’m not sure what you’re referring to. The oil is directed through solenoids/actuators to the cam phasers. There are chain sprockets on the outside of the phaser, where the timing chain will ride on, but there is no gears (internally or externally). The timing is changed/altered slightly by hydraulics (oil), modulation of the oil being directed into chambers of the phaser, where it will effect timing depending on which side of the vane it goes to. It will wear out eventually and cause the early morning startup rattle. Usually at 200,000 plus. I don’t have that. I don’t expect that to happen any sooner or later than anyone else will get it. Regarding Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Never tried it, but I’d love to. It contains esters and some PAO’s (I’ve read), and for the price, it seems to be a bargain compared to an Amsoil or whatever full synthetic base stock you compare it to. It may be may next oil for sure. I do like Project Farm’s videos but his tests and testing equipment are not on par to real world testing or the testing equipment oil manufacturers have at their disposal. Yet I think he does a great job! And I don’t totally discount what he does at all. Thanks for posting. I love oil talk.

[@MemorialRifleRange]

That is silicon not silicone. However I strongly feel that the 5W /xx provides better sheer margins and the 0 w stuff is only CAFE garbage compliance. I would reconsider in -20 temps for that one winter oil change, Not a fan of 10 K changes.

[@doublebase6509]

Good stuff, thanks. I’ll make sure I pronounce that correctly next time. I always assumed it was a way of saying silicates, and the “silicone” didn’t make much sense to me. I’m still torn on the 10,000 mile oil change but I have seen people go 100’s of thousands of miles on them with no issue. In the end I think it’ll probably come down to piece of mind for me.

[@yt-xe8ws]

Zero-weight oils are designed to reduce emissions during warm up. If the wrong oil is in the crankcase, it will change the three to five minutes it takes to bring the combustion chamber up to temperature. This will also alter how the variable valve timing works. It can also have implications for the catalytic converter. Always use the motor oil viscosity recommended by your vehicle manufacturer. Using a different viscosity (thinner or thicker) may cause oil pressure and oil supply problems, especially in late-model engines with cylinder deactivation and/or variable valve timing (VVT).

[@doublebase6509]

Every vehicle runs onboard emission testing every 15 seconds (or less) on every vehicle in America. Test/pass, every 15 seconds. If it tests/fails. It’ll run it again. If it fails again a check engine light will turn for federal emission failure. Plain and simple, if a 5 weight oil made a negative difference in emission control it would fail onboard testing and a check engine light goes on. A lot things happen to reduce emissions on a vehicle, if oil was a detriment to emission reduction a check engine light will turn on. That’s just facts.

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

As a 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder I disagree. Going from 20w to 30w will not harm anything and will reduce the long term wear inside your engine.

[@littlet7556]

You're making up a lot of nonsense. The VVT is not affected by oil viscosity. If you haven't read previous posts, this same engine can run, per Toyota, 15W-40 motor oil. So your information is foolish and unproven!

[@bobthrasher8226]

Wonder how it affects VVTi? They depend on oil pressure to do their thing so oil viscosity might affect timing. I think protection of bearings largely depends on oil pressure rather than viscosity. With sufficient oil pressure, the bearings just float on the oil.

[@doublebase6509]

Those are good questions. The VVTI is the same as the previous models (that used the 5W30), as far as I can tell, but I could be wrong. I will say I have noticed ZERO difference in performance/fuel economy/check engine lights/misfires. It’s all been normal. As far as protection, you might be right, but I went with the higher viscosity oil for a higher level of HTHS (high temp high shear) rating. Should have I been concerned with that in a daily driver? I’m not sure. The used oil analysis I posted was with the 0W20 - and that analysis came back phenomenal (and that was a 10,000 mile run). I’m four oil changes into this car now with a 5W30, and I’m 6,000 miles in on Amsoil Signature Series 5w30…I may send a sample out at the end of this interval. I’m not sure.

[@jimn.9990]

@@doublebase6509 You could go longer between OCIs with the Amsoil SS oil than with M1 EP. Amsoil warranties their SS oil to go 15,000 miles or 1 year (whichever comes first) for SEVERE Driving Miles, or 25,000 miles or 1 year (whichever comes first) for NORMAL Driving Miles. I believe your driving style would be more closely classified as Normal. If you would like to extend your mileage to 20k-24k, I would advide changing your oil filter at 10,000 if you decide to go to a 20k OCI (or 12,000 if you decide to go to a 24k OCI).

[@orionschroeder9401]

The use of 0W-20 is all about EPA regulations, aligning with fuel mileage, and emissions reductions. Carbon Neutrality is a TOTAL JOKE, using 0W-30 Mobil 1, or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 would be my personal choices! Completely agree with your choice of running 5W-30 ignore all the naysayers telling you you’re wrong. Thank you for posting an informative video, cheers!

[@doublebase6509]

Thank you. You’re absolutely right; the demands that CAFE regulations has put on manufacturers (and oil) has completely driven all the changes in the industry. We’re now into ISLAC GF6A (GF6B), this change is because of the turbos, timing chains and direct injection/LSPI (low speed pre ignition)…and the never ending quest to reach corporate average fuel economy numbers. I’m not saying it’s all bad design and function, but there has been plenty of problems along the way. And I agree, Ultra Platinum and Mobil1 0W30 are excellent oils. I’m tempted to run Mobil1 0W40 FS (because it has a nice slug of PAO in it).

[@jimn.9990]

@@doublebase6509 From reading the Safety Data Sheet of the M1 0W-40 FS, I detect they are using anywhere from 42% to 60% hydrocracked petroleum oil, whereas the 100% Synthetic Amsoil SS oils contain only a mixture of base oils consisting of mostly PAO with some percentage degree of Ester (the exact mixture is a trade secret, to keep ahead of the competition). Rafe Briton, a former Lubrication Engineer of Mobil (who really puts forth highly educational KZbin Videos under the channel "Lubrication Explained," says any company that states on their label they are 100% Synthetic, then it follows they are ONLY using a combination of PAO & Ester. In addition I speculate that Amsoil uses a more expensive, higher-quality PAO (known as a mPAO) containing metallocene, which costs more, thereby delivering extra-desirable characteristics, since the SS line of oils have greater measurable statistics than other Amsoil lessor-grade 100% Synthetic Oils that are probably conventional PAOs (which Rafe calls cPAOs). By now you have guessed I am an independent Amsoil Dealer (all Amsoil Deralers are independent contractors, having no employment with Amsoil). The following true story occurred over a year ago that you could find interesting: I found an owner of a repair shop near my house using Mobil 1 0W-40 FS in both of his two Dodges with each containing the high-powered 6.4 liter (392 ci). He agreed to try the Amsoil 0W-40 Signature Series oil, after I explained to him all the wonderful benefits and attributes of Amsoil, together with my personal story as follows: I was a devoted Mobil 1 user until I bought Amsoil as an ordinary customer about 20 years ago, whereupon I was flabbergasted by the extra power of Amsoil (in comparison to all the various synthetic oils I have used over the years), so that solidified my sole allegiance to Amsoil from that point in time. About three weeks later, that mechanic/owner of a mechanical shop ordered 3 cases of oil, including the 0W-40 oil (for himself) and the Extended Life (mid grade) for his customers and he became one of my steady customers! I realize that you more than likely bought the Amsoil SS 5W-30 Oil from another Amsoil Dealer, so I therefore don't want to interfere with your business relationship with that Amsoil Dealer. However, anyone else interested in learning more from me (who is not working with an Amsoil Dealer), can send me an email to automotivebuff at my gmail address. YT frowns upon using links in the Comments Section of their videos.

[@aussiedeplorable8670]

The 0W grade oils may be better for hybrids where the engine is constantly going on and off.

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah I think they’re now running 0W16 and there is also 0W8 for the Toyota Yaris hybrid and their Corolla and Crown.

[@oficeptel6493]

Great information, thank you I have 2010 Highlander Base with 2GR-FE Version-2 (98K), as you said the oil cap says 5W-30 and I use that. However last winter I put in 0W-20 and I found that it cranks a lot easier in cold mornings (Northeast) but I start to hear my lifters ticking bit more. So I change it back to 5W-30 in a month or so. Looks like you have 2GR-FE Version-3. The Version-3 engines have different VVTi gears. VVTi gears works with oil pressure and oil viscosity could change oil pressure. I am not sure but maybe they compensate that with using 0W-20 oil. My understanding is heavier oil better for older engines as long as the oil goes though tiny holes in the hydraulic lifters. I do not have that much detail specs; do you see any spec or info about VVTi gears or hydraulic lifters? Also engineers usually good however, when it comes to the cost savings and sales pitches no one listens engineers 🙂

[@doublebase6509]

Not sure but when I looked up VVTI actuator (intake), the part fit for 2008-2017 for my Avalon. I didn’t dive deep and look across the entire 2GRFE lineup for those years but a few I saw other than mine also had a similar year stretch between them. But I don’t know for sure if they are exactly the same.

[@BOSS-xy8op]

I have a 2010 Toyota Camry with a 2.5L and my car requires 0W-20. I only use 0W-20 and I have 269,000 miles on the clock. I don't burn any oil but all my miles are highway interstate miles.

[@doublebase6509]

Honestly, yeah, there are plenty stories of people running the 0W20 for a very long time with zero issues. I will say I’ve had no issues since switching over to the 5W30, but I’m about to send an oil analysis in on my latest interval in the next few weeks.

[@BOSS-xy8op]

@@doublebase6509 Sounds good. Looking forward to hearing the results.

[@jd646]

please post the results​@@doublebase6509

[@diegaspumper8501]

@@BOSS-xy8opmy daughter has the same car and I use Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 and purolator boss oil filters in it and the engine runs a lot quieter and smoother than it does with the 0w-20 oil in it. Fuel economy is pretty much the same with the 5w-30 opposed to the 0w-20. We also live in south Louisiana and have high temperatures in the summer and mild winters.

[@lamarc2634]

Wow you did your homework, great video

[@doublebase6509]

Thank you!

[@u.e.u.e.]

I can't talk about your engine. But I have the same opinion about the 1NZ-FXE. 😉 It's not an engineer's decision, it's a decision of the marketing department! They ask the engineers if it's possible. And they say that you *could* do it. So the marketing ppl tell you to do it. That's all. 🤪 As I'm living in the middle of the city I go for 0W-30, but that's my personal preference. Nobody can tell me that a HTHS of 2.9 to 3.5 or even above should "demage" the valvetrain in the long run while 2.6 to 2.8 does not. The engine runs more silently and if you add boron nitrate (ceramic) additive it runs even quieter. 🤭😉 There is something more: I see a difference if you drive just a few km/mi in the Winter in Siberia or if you drive full throttle for 1 h on a German Autobahn in summer. 😎 I had the 1NZ-FXE in a Prius mk 2 before, that ran on LPG. The oil was chrystal clear after 15,000 km and started to get a bit of color at 22,000 km. After 26,000 it hadn't even been black yet but middle to dark brown. I sold the Prius at 384,000 km due to rust. But the engine ran just fine. I'm having the same engine now in a Yaris Hybrid (XP13). Toyota fixed the only weak spot and replaced the belt-driven water pump by an electric one. 0W-20? Just over my dead body! 😂

[@doublebase6509]

That’s was great, thanks for that comment! You know your oil and engines.

[@u.e.u.e.]

@@doublebase6509 More or less. 😉 I never did an oil analysis. But I like to read data sheets.

[@othman0077]

For my Toyota Avalon 2021, the dealer uses 5W-30 SP with 6 miles change interval in the owner's manual 0W-20 SP or 5W-30 SP

[@doublebase6509]

I didn’t realize the newer Avalons actually suggest either 0w20 or 5w30…that’s interesting. Truthfully there isn’t a lot of difference between the two. I just finished an oil change interval using the 5W30 and I’m sending the oil off for an analysis today. I’ll be posting a video when I get the results.

[@othman0077]

@doublebase6509 North or South American Toyota only mentions the lightest viscosity, however, with the same car in the Middle East, the owner's manual mentions 0W-20 as recommended, and 5W-20 or 5W-30 or 10W-30, 10W-30 is mentioned with caution ⚠️ not to be used in a cold climate to avoid hard start-up. API SL or SM or SN or SN plus but I give you the best option which 99% of the dealers do is the 5W-30 SP I put 5W-30 SP in all my cars

[@mailmanjoe]

I don't see why this research you did wouldn't apply to the 2AR-FE engine too! I'm planning on putting in a really good synthetic 5W30 myself. Some users on the Toyota nation forum have already done this and claim to have a quieter engine and that it's helped the cold start rattle.

[@doublebase6509]

I don’t know the history of that engine, but it sounds like you’ve done some research. Be careful and keep an eye on it if you make the decision to go a little heavier. Let us know how,it does.

[@rdspam]

All the specification research from the 2GR-FE wouldn’t apply to the 2AR-FE because it’s a completely different engine. Same reason it wouldn’t apply to a 5.0L Mustang. Why would journal bearing clearance numbers of an engine mean anything on a completely different engine?

[@peterstencell804]

They are using low tension rings. Could be creating carbon in the oil rings . the oil is designed to scrap thiner oil. You wont know the damage till it is to late. Oil holes behind the oil rings are smalier now . The carbon will wreck the cylinder wall surface

[@peterstencell804]

Lots of video of trashed pistons car nut Chantal. Good luck

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah, I saw that Scotty Kilmer video too. Only thing, if the lower tension rings weren’t able to scrape the oil off the walls as effectively compared to a lower viscosity oil, I’d be using oil. And I’m not. This engine called for 5W30 previously.

[@Chiefgeargrinder]

Lol Famous Smart Ass comments when they say oh you know more than the Engineers. It's Engineered to get you to the Warranty that's it. NOT 300-500K. You could go 10w-30 if you wanted.

[@hostilityy]

You say thinner 0W20 oils thins out as it gets more usage mileage. sure, but that’s not the case when oil is cold. Engine oils oxidize and get thicker when cold. this is the only reason I stick with 0w20 on my new Tacoma V6. One second extra delay in oil reaching components in winter can add up

[@doublebase6509]

I get what you’re saying. And I don’t think there’s much difference between a 0W20 and 5W30 under normal operating conditions anyway. All oils tend to drop in viscosity a little bit and shed down through an interval…some very quickly. The oil will then thicken - or could thicken - if you go much too long on an interval. We are talking of course about the second number, the operating temperature number. The winter number of 0 in a 0W20 is obviously the viscosity at 0 degrees. There’s not much difference between the 0W and the 5W unless we are talking about -35 degrees bellow 0. I don’t operate in those temps, ever. Engine oil does not oxidize quicker in cold temps, it oxidizes quicker in hot temps. No worry with that part. Oil thickens in cold temps, which reduces flow, however oil is pumped in an engine…which is why these videos on KZbin showing cold oil racing down a track when poured cold are virtually useless. Oil is pumped and there isn’t a lot of difference between a 0W and a 5W at zero degrees. I probably should consider a 0W oil like a 0W30 or 0W40 just in canes I ever have to start my car in temps -35 or something close, but I was slightly concerned about the VII (viscosity index improvers because that’s a large spread). However I probably shouldn’t be concerned at all…most oils nowadays are very good. Thanks for the reply.

[@joshreid8320]

I've heard this Is good if your towing but was told to switch back on my next oil change

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah, I can see someone saying that. Or run the 0W20 in winter and the 5W30 in summer. Honestly, both performed well in this particular engine under normal driving conditions.

[@exploringsydneyandbeyond9059]

in australia i’ve used 5w-30 and always will - 0w-20 is too thin and will cause more wear long term . engineers are not always right , they are also steered by marketing and the environmental groups . bearing clearances haven't changed in decades 5w-30 for cooler times and even a 5w-40 in hot summers , along with intervals halved from what toyota says your engine will last incredibly longer . If your buying a car for only 5 years ownership then do whatever you want but if your buying for 15-20 yrs then service it like i mention above , you’ll never need an engine .

[@elliotrodriguez523]

I bought a 2015 v6 camry on mexico. Both the oil cap and a sticker on the hood say "only use 5w-30".

[@doublebase6509]

Interesting, and this is what I mean when I tell people that your engine may suggest a different weight oil depending on what country you’re in, and what regulations the government may implement. In the US we have CAFE regulations (corporate average fuel economy), and because of those regulations manufacturers in this country go to extremes to meet fuel economy regulations. If they can’t they are fined. For a company like Toyota, who sells lots of cars, them not achieving CAFE would mean heavy fines. So, they and others will put lighter weight oils into engines that where heavier weights may be suggested elsewhere. Mexico is also a hotter climate, and climate plays a role too. But this engine (2GRFE) used to be spec’d for 5W30 regardless, and the change to 0W20 I believe e was made exclusively because of CAFE regulations.

[@jesselynch1844]

Great video I have an Avalon also, and a 2014 4 runner. Would you consider doing a comparison on the 4.0 liter engines to see if they changed anything on them motors. Mine calls for the 0w20 but I think it has a bit of clatter at certain rpm’s. Nothing serious but I’m very picky lol. I’m wondering if 5w30 would maybe help that out?

[@doublebase6509]

I’ll see if I can get back to you with some specs later this week.

[@HatBilly2008]

0-w-20 in the cold weather. 5-w-30 in the heat. Been doing this for years now, everything is changed before 5,000 miles. Toyota RAV4 -2013 Ford explorer 2007 Viscosity, is the problem, remember the old Castle oil commercials on TV. Heat is always the enemy.

[@doublebase6509]

While I agree with you, your engine doesn’t really care how hot it is, it internally controls temp and should be able to keep an engine within operating temperature and most conditions. The cold is another story, cold startups can be an issue in extreme cold. I get that. But I like your regimen.

[@markwarnberg9504]

If the owners manual say´s you can use a 40 weight oil then use a 40 for summer use. Useing over priced oil does not mean you can extend the service interval.....you still have to follow the manufactuers recommendation. The best oil analases is your eye. Keeping your oil clean will prevent carbon build up in the oil channels insureing lubrication.

[@doublebase6509]

Well that’s the thing, manufacturer recommendations for Toyota is 10,000 miles, with some being longer than that.

[@markwarnberg9504]

@@doublebase6509 I hade a 2005 SAAB 9.5 that GM recommended 30,000km (18,000mi) 15,000km for hard driving, Those 9,5s doing the long service started burning oil after the warrenty went out. Now day´s the viscosity is 0w20, that is a all around winter oil of -40c - +15c... way too thin for summer use outside of Northern Alaska! Common sense tells me auto manufactuers objectives and mine are not the same....expeially after seeing engine tear down videos and my own rebuilt V8s from the 70s.

[@doublebase6509]

@@markwarnberg9504I used to work for Saab right before GM bought them out in the early 90’s. Right away you could tell the difference when GM bought them…all of the sudden we were having problems under warranty that we wouldn’t usually get. Too bad, they used to be nice and unique cars. Unreal that GM would recommend 18,000 mile interval! Wow.

[@markwarnberg9504]

@@doublebase6509 I was surprised myself when I read the service manual, insane 30,000km! The "Svår Körning" was hidden in a different section. I changed every 5000km. Yes Big Mistake selling out too GM, they never intended tp keep the company going. It ws GM who screwed SUZUKI out of the American market. I have the 2015 VITARA, 160,000km never had a problem, very happy with it. PS: I worked for VOLVO Torslanda back in 1974 makeing the 140 series.

[@elonsus9747]

Toyota list viscosity’s all the way up to 15w40 for the 2GR V6 in different countries. 5W30 is a nice middle ground or even a 40.

[@doublebase6509]

I just finished my oil interval using the 5W30 with lab results, I’ll have to post a video on it. But to your point, yes, I think the 5W30 is a good spot to be with this engine.

[@Chiefgeargrinder]

Get 1 bottle of Redline 5w-40 then get 1 bottle of DT-40 5w 40. Then get your run of the mill 5w-40. You'll see the difference right away. Redline and DT-40 base oil will be even thicker than Valvoline 20-50 conventional. Your exotic sport cars usually will have DT-40 or Redline in the crankcase.

[@doublebase6509]

I may try that, I just picked up some 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for my next run, but I was very close to going with Mobil1 0W40 FS European.

[@Chiefgeargrinder]

@@doublebase6509 I Bought a ECOBOOST 3.5 Taurus with 67000K on the clock. I didn't like the noise that thing makes at idle. I drained the new oil and was immediately overcome with the gas Fumes. I bought 6 quarts of Redline 5w-30 full synthetic and 11 Oz of BG Engine oil treatment part# 115. The thickness of that 5w-30 Redline was incredibly thicker than ordinary 5w-30 synthetic. Anyways that idles is way quieter and that oil won't coke on the GDI intake valves. Those exotic oils use a group 5 base-oil high ester count and the heat tolerance is incredible protection for Turbos.

[@machine7767]

Is there a way to look up piston ring part numbers? Curious if rings changed at all.

[@doublebase6509]

I haven’t done that but I bet a google search would definitely give you some answers.

[@jeffyoung6222]

0w20 is just fine, the lab numbers looks excellent. I’d rather change the OCI to 5000/6month instead of switch to 5w30.

[@doublebase6509]

You’re right, the 0W20 did look fantastic. I probably could have left it the way it was.

[@littlet7556]

Where did you get all the engine tolerance information from?

[@who_iz_this938]

I have a really annoying rattle on start up after the car warms up, what would you recommend me do? Should I change the oil into a higher viscosity oil or have the engine opened up to replace any worn parts? It’s the same engine 2grfe 2011 Avalon

[@doublebase6509]

You could try that but not sure it will fix it, but worth a shot. The VVTi gears and lock pin tend to do that when you reach high mileage.

[@Nick-n3n2r]

Florida living 2019 Mazda cx 5. Touring fwd .The manual states either 0w20 or 5w30.

[@doublebase6509]

I hear nothing but good things about the Mazda CX5

[@jd646]

I use 5w30 in my 04 MDX with no problems i even get better MPG with the 5w30 than i did with the 0w20 5w20 riddle me that

[@osmarhernandez8372]

I did with my highlander 5-30 runs smoother

[@GameArmorGameplay]

The 2005 Avalon had this engine too.

[@doublebase6509]

Now was that the 3.3 with the timing belt? Or were they using the 3.5 2GRFE back then?

[@GameArmorGameplay]

@@doublebase6509 2005 Avalon had the 2GRFE with timing chain. 2004 Avalon had the 3.0L and the Solara V6 had the 3.3L

[@Noypi54494]

For Toyotas that spec 0w-8 or 0w-16 would 5w-30 be OK?

[@doublebase6509]

I would NOT DO THAT. The new Toyota engines are just that, new. If something is calling for a 0W8 or 16, using a 30 weight is a big difference.

[@Noypi54494]

@doublebase6509 Thanks!

[@littlet7556]

The engineers only job is to get it past warranty. They don't care after that

[@kennethward4985]

Exactly they are trying to let a Fed Gov employee sitting behind a desk decide which oil we use. I bought a new Toyota with a 4 cylinder and I am in Florida. First oil change(1500m) I went without hesitation to 0w-30. No way I would run anything in Florida on 20 weight oil. That motor oil geek on KZbin probably works for the Feds. My next car will be a Mazda because I do not wants a turbo, CVT or hybrid, all will fail early and cost a whole lot to fix. I am age 65 and have serviced my own cars for 50 years.

[@doublebase6509]

Agree 100%

[@dieselscience]

You _WILL_ start to burn oil FASTER with a higher viscosity oil. The reason is NOT MILEAGE or bearing clearances. It is because of low tension piston rings. IF you live in a semi or tropical climate and want 'extra protection' use 0W-30 full synthetic.

[@doublebase6509]

Interesting, I haven’t experienced any oil usage since switching to 5W30 compared to the 0W20 in the 20,000 miles since I switched. Can you explain why low tension rings wouldn’t benefit from a higher viscosity oil? Does the oil hover around the lands and not flow through the oil control ring as quick, causing the oil to coke up? Does the lighter weight oil get behind the low tension rings in their groove and help the rings press against the cylinder wall a little more (adding tension)?

[@dieselscience]

I can't give you a semester in tribology in a YT comment thread but I can get you started. I'm an engineer IRL but I won't go into the weeds.... -The low tension rings don't rely on oil behind them but between them and the cylinder walls. Lower tension doesn't require higher viscosity that would otherwise prevent good ring seating to keep adequate film strength. The advantage is less bore friction and more mileage. -It's not the 'weight' of the oil but the _viscosity_ that matters most. That is it's ability to with ease. @@doublebase6509

[@toobeer]

You should first ask if the internals were changed and when you find out the answer is no, then realize that Toyota had to meet fuel efficiency standards the Goment imposed. Stay with 5W-30 IMHO>

[@doublebase6509]

Definitely!

[@tonywhite425]

So we are questioning the engineers on what weight oil to run hmmmmm

[@doublebase6509]

If you want to ask a question and get an answer from the video it would be why has Toyota changed their viscosity recommendations in the same engine they previously recommended (and still do in other countries) 5W30?

[@yosefkugel]

My 2AZ-fe 4cy 07 Camry claims to take 5w20-0w20, I put 5w30 runs better

[@Phone-sh7jg]

I added a quart of 20w50 to my 5w20 Ep oil. The valvoline 20w50 has made my 2011 tucson gls purr. Not click click click. I wanted to add lucas oil stabilizer, but it has no add pack. I mean, this engine is smooth. it's crazy quiet. The engine allows for 5w30.

[@dmironyuk]

Stick w/the thin oil but add 1/2 quart of the original Lucas, should thick'n it up just enough👌

[@dustinnop]

Running 0w40 in mine

[@doublebase6509]

I’ve definitely considered doing that. How’s that gone for you? Any noticeable drop in fuel economy?

[@dustinnop]

@@doublebase6509 Runs and sounds great. mpg seems the same

[@Phone-sh7jg]

​@@dustinnopin bot weather year round?

[@chief1193]

I don’t see how, 15w40 is recommended in this engine in the service manual. 😂😂😂

[@doublebase6509]

What service manual would that be?

[@OxBlitzkriegxO]

this should only be a 3 sec video. "no." the end.

[@doublebase6509]

I’ll edit the video for you Ox. 😂

[@janekbrat]

👍🇨🇦

[@tonywhite425]

130k is nothing for those engines

[@doublebase6509]

You’re not wrong. The problem with owning one of these things is that- and it’s a good problem to have - no one is impressed with high mileage on these units until you reach 300,000 plus. Even then it’s not all that impressive.

[@MohammadAli-fw7xj]

Good 👍👍👍👍

[@douglaskennedy6695]

Silicon isn't Silicone

[@doublebase6509]

Thanks, someone else mentioned that.

[@GrantBillingsly]

Not sure if you know what you're talking about.

[@doublebase6509]

I do, hope that helps.

[@GrantBillingsly]

@@doublebase6509 I guess maybe

[@doublebase6509]

@@GrantBillingsly no honestly, I’m not telling anyone to do what I’m doing, but this engine is spec’d for 5w30 and higher in other countries. Here, in the us, it’s not because of CAFE regulations. I just went 12,000 miles on an oil change interval using 5W30, I’m awaiting lab results from my oil sample. I’ll do a video on it. I’m pretty sure the oil/engine will be good. But we’ll see.

[@Nick-n3n2r]

Opinion only from online research. If you live in a very hot climate area's like Arizona /Florida 5w30 is better in that type of hot climate for your vehicle protection, Cold/snow country climate =0w20 / 5w 20 = could be even slightly better for vehicle protection / safer engine startup.ghtly

[@doublebase6509]

Yeah a lot of people go with the lower viscosity in winter and bump it up in the summer. My climate and commute is pretty decent for a 5w30 in winter (garaged/highway). Not a lot of extreme cold starts, etc. But I agree