WILL A SLOPER OR BLOCK SEWING PATTERN SOLVE ALL MY FIT ISSUES???

[@Evelyn__Wood]

So tell us, what are your questions around block patterns? And what has been your avenue to get your own personal pattern library? 😀 If you want to go on a sewing journey and learn how to make your own personal block pattern from any pattern, join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/

[@Stranger_Than_Fiction299]

How important is it to have a sewing manequin for developing a block pattern, and is it an essential item for vintage sewing school? I don't have one yet and probably won't for a while since my spouse got me my super sewing machine that wasn't cheap.

[@kimberlycooper4170]

Hi Evelyn Wood, Uh...I'm not yet ready to sew clothes. Instead, can you answer this: I know that following the grain line is very important when making clothes. However, is it important to follow the grain line when sewing pillowcases? If I follow the grain line when cutting out the pillowcase, the Christmas trees will all be lying on their side. (I'm learning so much just by sewing one standard-size pillowcase after another: pinning to get more accuracy while cutting and sewing, how to use the Overcast Presser Foot for zigzagging to finish seams, etc. So far, I've sewed 9 pillowcases.)

[@LinniuesLinens]

@@kimberlycooper4170 Regarding your fabric, are the trees going parallel or perpendicular to the selvage (finished edge) of the fabric, or are they running diagonally? You should be fine as long as the sides of your rectangular pattern are square to the finished edges and following the threads of the fabric. You'll just want to avoid cutting on the bias (on a diagonal across the threads of the fabric) so that the pillowcases don't stretch out of shape. Hope this helps!

[@mothersuperior6751]

@@Stranger_Than_Fiction299 To build a block that is to your measurements does not require a mannequin at all. So you can easily make a block to fit you, and then make clothes from it. A mannequin is an investment to make much later. IMO. When you are confident with garment making and want to experiment with design. Is it essential to sewing that you have a designated sewing space. No. Is it helpful and productive to have one. Yes. A bit like that, helpful, but not essential.

[@TheMintedMaiden]

I made my first block by “cloning” a blouse I already had that fit me really well. I made a mock-up and some adjustments and now I can use it across the board. I didn’t need to learn much to do this! Just tracing and a couple darts.

[@schoo9256]

Thank you so much. I have a terrible habit of believing I need to learn Every. Single. Thing. In order to just make one simple item. Your approach of "what is the least amount I can learn to get the most amount of improvement" is such a good idea and I need to remember it!

[@barbaramatthews4735]

Me too. I easily get overwhelmed because I dig deeper and deeper into the subject and forget the process.

[@clairetaylor4641]

I’m my pattern making design class, I was taught a rule that has always worked for me when using commercial patterns. It’s the 2/1/3 rule. When comparing you body measurements to those on the pattern size chart. You can fit 2 inches more in the bust, 1 inch more in the waist and 3 inches more into the hips without adjusting the commercial pattern. With this in mind I can develop an perfect fitting slopes. Happy designing!

[@wierdogirl9]

Having a personal block pattern is really helpful for people whose bodies are outside the normal. I used to wear a L cup bra size and a narrow back. There was no way I could get any commercial patterns to fit me, even the ones that specialize in large bust. Drafting my block pattern was a savior and the only I could get clothes to fit me.

[@lovecats6856]

Yup. I am 34h no hips. For the first time ever I sewed a skirt by copying my favourite skirt. Terrified to try to make a blouse. This video gives me courage.

[@Morticia147]

For me learning how to draft my own sloper and change it into the garments I wanted helped me understand standard patterns. And without the internet I might have given up a long time ago. In my country there aren't many possibilities to learn sewing and definitely not about altering a pattern for your body. I'm really glad my English is good enough so I have more ways to learn.

[@naomimara3340]

Hi Morticia, where did you learn to draft your sloper? Was it online? I am really struggling..just finished expensive 1 year of Paternmaking & construction school/course but the knowledge is not enough for me to do basic bodice sloper to fit me. In my country there is not one course that can teach us, so I'm looking for ways online. Almoust giving up, C's I'm also beginner in sewing and it all seems so hard. I cannot afford to take another year. Please help.

[@naomimara3340]

Hi Morticia, where did you learn to draft your sloper? Was it online? I am really struggling..just finished expensive 1 year of Paternmaking & construction school/course but the knowledge is not enough for me to do basic bodice sloper to fit me. In my country there is not one course that can teach us, so I'm looking for ways online. Almoust giving up, C's I'm also beginner in sewing and it all seems so hard. I cannot afford to take another year. Please help.

[@naomimara3340]

Hi Morticia, where did you learn to draft your sloper? Was it online? I am really struggling..just finished expensive 1 year of Paternmaking & construction school/course but the knowledge is not enough for me to do basic bodice sloper to fit me. In my country there is not one course that can teach us, so I'm looking for ways online. Almoust giving up, cs I'm also beginner in sewing and it all seems so hard. I cannot afford to take another year. Please help.

[@Morticia147]

@@naomimara3340 Hi, I learned it from Suzy Furrer on Craftsy. She was a great Teacher on this Platform. Craftsy is no longer good, but these old and very good classes are still there.

[@mairarahmani6458]

@@naomimara3340 KZbin has so many good videos. Especially Thuy Sewing

[@celebkiriedhel]

I've been following a lot of youtubers who draft their own patterns. I kind of have to because I am larger than the normal patterns. I think slopers are definitely a great thing, but I think drafting patterns from clothes that already fit you is a great starting point for beginners. It gets people more confident to do patterns and adaptions.

[@miriammoriarty8588]

I'm tall and I think that's where I'm going to start - making copies of clothes that look good on me.

[@kobaltkween]

Minor, minor point. A sloper is literally fit skin tight, with no ease, and no styling. A block is your basic piece that you use as a starting point for other designs. It has ease, and would work as an actual basic garment. You know how you see a new clothing line on the catwalk, and the pieces are all similar? They're all made from the same blocks. If your body doesn't change, you don't need a new sloper, but if you're working from a vastly different design, you might want a new block. For instance, a 4 panel circle skirt vs. a two panel pencil skirt could use different blocks, but both of those blocks could be made from a single sloper.

[@manestage5403]

That’s what I thought. So a sloper is basically me -flat? It’s the bare bones of what a pattern can be. Just my body measurements cut out on flat paper. While a basic block is a basic pattern that can become any other style. Slope = Ground zero Block = Next level Do I understand that correctly?

[@kobaltkween]

@@manestage5403 Exactly. I've seen some professionals say that as soon as you add seam allowance and ease, it's a block, not a sloper. But in practice, a lot of "sloper" tutorials and products have both, and can be used as very basic blocks. The big thing is to keep in mind your goals. Most of us only wear a few different silhouettes and styles. Based on tutorials, it seems to take a lot less time and effort to give a basic fitted bodice block and turn it into a V neck tunic than take a commercial V neck tunic pattern and fit it precisely to yourself.

[@janem3378]

Excellent information. Particularly your advice about only needing a few patterns in your pattern collection. I have maybe 20 patterns total. They are commercial. I adjust, I embellish. Its all anyone needs. Thank you so much. Best advice I give new sewists is to measure yourself and then measure the flat pattern pieces so you adjust before you cut.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

I agree!! Good suggestion!!

[@0deline_fi0n]

This seemed so abstract to me at the beginning, I didn't understand how to compare my 3D self to a flat quarter of bodice 😄 But I'm starting to understand how it works.

[@Stranger_Than_Fiction299]

I can't take my eyes off your blouse, it's so pretty and the color is gorgeous on you!

[@Evelyn__Wood]

😄 Thanks! It is a refashion I made a video about it here kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4PMi2abh9WGmpo

[@LadyAdelinda]

I keep staring at the one in the back, every episode..its lovely.. I'm trying to figure the sides out! Lol I can't do darts yet... and that blouse in background looks like a no dart blouse!

[@mothersuperior6751]

Yes. Same here. Looking at it and contemplating my fabric stash.

[@SuperMrsMar]

@@LadyAdelinda she made a video about it and how she made it!

[@pepperreed.33]

SAME. That's the simple style with great fabric and details, that I love to wear. Thanks for the link!

[@denisedorsey2889]

Thanks for this video. I'm new to garment sewing (since I lost my job due to Covid last March) and I absolutely love it but the fit frustration is real! I started with wovens because the ease of sewing with them. I did make a toile and figured out the dart placement. I've made that adjustment to my pattern and used it as a guide on a different pattern. So yes, I think that's a little bit of what you are talking about. I've recently jumped into sewing with knits and of course they are much more forgiving in terms of fit but more challenging to sew on. I love this journey I'm on and each and every make has taught me so much. I keep a sewing journal and that has helped as it's a great reference. The key for me, now that I'm working again, is to keep sewing every weekend so I keep my skills sharp. Thank you for the clear, focused videos you put out. ❤️

[@TheVelvetKitten]

I do love learning about pattern drafting and altering. I'm thrilled that I have a few patterns I have made as copycats off clothes that really fit me. What I find really strange about sewing is the weird amnesia, where I suddenly forget how to deal with a zipper. I just love it though, every single time I make something I feel accomplished. And non sewing peeps are always so amazed if I wear something I made. I love all of it. Upcycles, alters, patterns. Love! I just got an industrial machine, a Juki, at an estate sale for 95$, and spent $30 to rehab it. I really expect the industrial machine to up my game. Plus I got three huge bags of fabric for $7! so much material, so much inspiration! TY for all you do, it's wonderful to have your help :)

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Aww I love your enthusiasm as s your attitude to sewing as a fun game! ❤ That industrial is going to speed up your sewing so n much!!

[@malicalmen]

Zipper amnesia is definitely real! 😂

[@mothersuperior6751]

One of my local high schools runs pattern making classes. By the end I had a bodice, skirt and trouser block. It has been a great investment of both time and money.

[@ruthirwin8222]

I did an expensive course on pattern drafting but it wasnt to fit us it was to fit a sample and they couldnt get my armhole right with my bust size ...so i was very dissapointed

[@nanasloves]

@@ruthirwin8222 I would like to avoid that, my arms and bust are hard... would you mind saying which course did not work for you? I’m sure it works great for some .

[@gerriebell2128]

What you said makes so much sense. I have taken some basic pattern drafting classes, and have drafted a basic T-shirt type top and an A- line skirt. I have the Sure Fit design set and have made clothing with it. But do I want to draw out all the pieces for every different style garment I want to make, or like you said, take advantage of commercial patterns and let them do the work of drafting and creating styles? Learning basics of drafting helped me understand ease, and how 2, 3,or 4 basic pieces fit together to make a garment. This understanding has helped me know how to alter a pattern as needed. You are right, I tend to gravitate toward a few styles with only a few variations, so I don’t need a ton of patterns. Thank you for explaining things so clearly!

[@christinemartin9449]

Hi from England. I am an experienced self taught sewer and learn so much from your videos I don't think that I have ever found my fitting solution, perhaps because I have not had enough confidence in what I am doing but with your videos I am learning. Thank you for doing them.

[@thebratqueen]

Never heard it called a block or sloper pattern before but I have seen other youtubers who have a pattern of themselves that they've drafted that they use as their start point for drafting future patterns. I like how you explained that there's really two ways to get to that end result and ultimately the goal is you understand the fit needs of your own body.

[@Mary-9j]

You are an incredible teacher. So easy to listen to and follow.

[@Hopeapotheke]

Thank you for this. I am new to sewing and another girl made a video recently about sloper's and I was so lost...and it was INCREDIBLY intimidating. I'm like...I barely know how to make my sewing machine work, I don't know how to read a pattern hardly at all. You're crazy lol. You just made me feel A LOT better.

[@rutendomaguze6578]

I make my own block patterns because where i live, i have no access to commercial patterns and also because I enjoy the work of making my own patterns. I have been making my own blocks and design patterns for some years now and i find it much easier (and relatively quicker) to get a good fit. I barely have to make adjustments. But learning to make blocks was also difficult, so i would suggest only using blocks if you have the time and energy to properly study and perfect them. (Taking courses on pattenmaking also helps!)

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Your so right in that it takes a long time to learn! And I think that's where so many give up unfortunately. I'm glad to hear you've made it to the other side! 😄

[@astelierzun]

Hi! What you're able to achieve sounds amazing. Could you recommend any online courses or resources to learn pattern drafting? I want to get better at it too. Thanks

[@rutendomaguze6578]

@@astelierzun My main resource for learning is from tailors and designers. So i suggest also trying to find a local network of sewing enthusiasts as that also helps when i need to find the materials necessary for the patternmaking. I started with pattern manipulation using a block pattern given to me by a mentor of mine. I got a basic appreciation of how patterns work from that. The rest was self-taught. My first book that i used to learn patternmaking was METRIC PATTERN CUTTING FOR WOMEN'S WEAR 5th Ed by Winifred Aldrich. I learned how to make different kinds of blocks from scratch and how to manipulate into different designs, and I still use it today. At the end of the day, it's best to look for as many patternmaking books as you can (borrowing from friends makes it cheaper til you buy your own!) and finding the one that makes sense to you. Another great learning platform is here on KZbin. I didn't know how limited my knowledge was until i started watching videos here. My usual approach is to watch 5 or more different videos on the same thing, like how to make a sleeve block, and then try all of them until i find the method that suits me. It's a lot of searching for information but i promise, if you take the time to do it, it will be worth it in the end. I wish you all the best on your journey. 🙂

[@astelierzun]

@@rutendomaguze6578 thank you for such an in-depth reply!! Helps to hear from someone who has successfully done it and know that it's possible. I will check out that book, it sounds useful. Cheers!

[@rutendomaguze6578]

@@astelierzun It's a pleasure. The book also has versions for Men's and Children's wear if you choose to expand.

[@potternana3303]

Well explained. I am at that level not beginner but not expert on fitting. Took a semester. At college. Years ago in pattern making. Understanding what all you said. Gives me hope to keep going. Thank you

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Yay Maureen!! Keep going, you've got this! That perfect fit is just around the corner 😄

[@michellecornum5856]

My process was Big 4 patterns cut to "my size," -- frustrating. Then I started Frankenstein-ing patterns together. Then finding my favorites and putting them on sturdier paper because I use them so much -- hence, my personal slopers. Then getting Big 4 patterns that I cut out at the biggest size -- don't trim down, don't transfer markings -- surge the fabric edges and pin the pieces on my dress dummy and fit as I go. And then, as if by magic -- I ended up doing some self drafting because I want a vintage something that there was no pattern for. {hee hee hee, at this point, I'm tempted to say "And that's how I ended up in this mess. RUN, RUN NOW!! Turn back before it's too late! Sewing is the world's strongest addiction!!!! fabric! I need new fabric! where's a store? why will they only sell me enough to make a mask? oh, the pain . . ." } Stay well!

[@annabodot962]

I'm making my very first garment from a pattern - a simple bathrobe. I puzzled over a "center line" marking on the pattern. Thanks to your video, I figured it was there as a point of alteration. Yup, it is! So helpful.

[@poonyaTara]

I'm a tall woman with a disproportionately small waist and outsized hips who can't have anything tailored for a couple of years now because of the pandemic, so it's nice to know that I can add two 1" blocks (one under bust and one over knee), correct for the slope of my hips, and have a garment that fits. Thank you!

[@jeniwrightsonkramer]

oh my gosh, thank you for all of your helpful information! I think I just found my *new favorite* channel! I'm just letting each one of your videos roll into the next, they're all so good!

[@alisonblencowe25]

Super helpful! I was about to pay for a fairly expensive class to make a trouser block and am so pleased I watched this first. I definitely do not have the time/skill/time to learn the skill to draft patterns! My time will definitely be best spent figuring out what adjustments my body needs.

[@kellyfernando8499]

I just freed my sewing machine from the garage after nine years! It was fully covered and protected and works like new. The first bodice block I saw on KZbin was very basic and then, as I watched more videos, they became more and more detailed (read that as "complicated"). I think you're right Evelyn, I think the way to go is to learn to tweak the patterns I like so they fit me better. I want to learn to sew skillfully and am signing up for Vintage Sewing School today!

[@caru547]

Evelyn, could you demonstrate examples of altering patterns to fit your body. I really am a beginner. Many thanks!

[@raeafoley6131]

Join us on VSS and Evelyn explains all of that in the workshops! It's definitely worth it! And really good!😇

[@liesellein]

For example, i have a long torso, so i have to slash and spread basically all bodice patterns to add .5" in length so the waist hits the correct spot. Alternatively, my legs are short so i tend to cut all skirt patterns down at the outset

[@buzoff4642]

Video by Nancy Zieman goes over that. nancyzieman.com/blog/sewing-2/pattern-fitting-101/

[@kendal4452]

@@buzoff4642 Thank you for this response!! I love Nancy Z's videos. I've got some of her books too.

[@buzoff4642]

@@kendal4452 Lorraine Henry's techniques for pattern modification for fitting is also very good, but I've no idea if she ever wrote a book, or produced a video on it. I caught her lecture at Sewing Expo, years ago.

[@AuthenticWe]

I literally been spending all week figuring out my bodice blocking/slope, it is tricky but I find the challenges of garment making very intriguing and fun, THANKYOU for the wealth of knowledge

[@WhisperedMoon]

I'm so glad this video popped into my feed! I always use commercial patterns and I always have the same fitting issues at the shoulder and waist, lol. I'm a beginner in the process of making my own bodice block right now and while I used a tutorial to make the bodice block, but then I've been using commercial patterns to alter it into something I'd like to wear (ie, adding a button placket and a collar). Thank you for the tips!

[@Evelyn__Wood]

That's a perfect way to do it!

[@barbararowe771]

Very helpful explanation. The compare-contrast presentation was really help. Interestingly, the encouragement that there is no one best way was probably the most helpful of all!

[@susanwiggains253]

Fantastic video today! Thanks for sharing all of your wonderful tips! I am so excited to get started sewing for myself again- hit a real dry spell! Can’t wait to get to watch all your videos!! Thanks so much!

[@karenfield3665]

Thank you! I've made my own slopers and am learning pattern drafting, but as with every tool it's necessary to know where it's useful and where there's something easier.

[@ImTash]

I know you're more of a natural fibre / woven person but I'd really love some tutorials on working with knits/stretch because you explain everything so much better than other youtube sewing teachers! There are a few tutorials out there telling you how to find your stretch percentage but not a whole lot on what to do with that information afterwards - like how much do you need to scale your patterns depending on that percentage, and how to transfer what you know from your slopers in terms of sizing and adjustments to work with knits/stretch... especially when your pattern might be fitted with negative ease. Which is a whoooole other level of brain scramble for a maths-phobic beginner!

[@angelikaberber3860]

This video is the one that is tipping me over to wanting to sign up for your school. In a couple of months certain life stressors will be gone and I’m gonna do it! I made a sloper and have been massively struggling to learn, like you said, EVERYTHING about pattern making. It’s just too much. It would be way smarter to buy a pattern and learn to adapt it to fit me. your approach is much more sensible for the amateur sewer. Like you say it’s not realistic to learn everything about drafting that you learn at a professional sewing school…just with youtube! Who has time for that? This has been so helpful. I felt really stuck!

[@jolineantheajammer]

SOOOOOOOOO glad you covered this! I made a sloper a few times but have yet to understand how to use it with my patterns. THANK YOU Evelyn.

[@kckazcoll1]

thanks Evelyn, I watch a lot of videos on pattern drafting and sewing and have learned the signs of bad fit - drag lines, etc. Recently bought the Sure Fit Designs dress kit to make a personalised block/master pattern. I love vintage styles so they are usually fitted, especially 50s designs.These days I know to do an FBA and increase the waistline on all my patterns. It can get quite technical, especially when making composite patterns (frankenpattern LOL)! Now attempting to sew for my friends to their measurements, which entails many fittings :)

[@aramayicart27]

ty for this comment....it's worked really well for me so far "Learn the least amount but that amount of learning will give you the most amount that you can do things that you can apply those teachings to get the most impact in your sewing" sewing or w/e you choose to learn.... is brillant!!!! ty for the educational vid.

[@margaretb.4123]

How I wish I had had you around in my sewing days! I managed, but my work could have been much neater and less frustrating. My best fit go-to patterns were STYLE, which I usually only had to turn in the top of pattern backs in order not to have gape. SIMPLICITY were way too long in the body. My wedding dress pattern, empire line, saw initial body construction ending at my waist rather than under the bust, so I had hefty reconstruction work to get that one fitting right! Bless you Evelyn. Think of you each time I handle needle and thread. :-).

[@LinniuesLinens]

Last year, I got really frustrated with trying to alter/fit from commercial patterns and ended up rebooting several projects from blocks. It worked out, but it was a TON of extra effort. I'm glad for the experience, but now you're really inspiring me to go back and try again with some commercial patterns! Thanks again, Evelyn! (Now just need to figure out all the alterations for short waist, narrow shoulder, narrow back, wide hip, etc, etc.....)

[@MaryAnn-cg1lh]

This is kind of a chicken and egg situation. How will I know what alterations to make if I don't have a sloper that shows all the differences between the standard pattern and my dimensions? I really hesitate starting any more advanced projects because I know standard patterns probably won't fit me properly but I don't know what to change to make the finished garments fit.

[@Sestra_Prior]

You are so inspirational, Evelyn! You make me want to rush into my sewing room and get stitching!

[@Evelyn__Wood]

I'm glad to hear this! Happy sewing!! 😄

[@michellecornum5856]

I agree! I now have a small pile of hand-me downs that I am getting ready to remake. I love the fabric of these clothes, and no one else wanted them, and because of Evelyn, I'm thinking -- "Yeah, I can do this, if I take off this, and trim that, I'll have just enough to add on this." SHe is VERY inspirational!!

[@fortysomethingbadgirls2173]

Glad I invested in several boxes of patterns at Goodwill. Practice pattern alterations. Thank you for sharing this one.

[@buzzi2k]

Even if they don't draft patterns from scratch, some people find it helpful to have their block to compare to the commercial pattern pieces, to see how far away the fit is and what might need to be adjusted. I think this is a smart idea because all pattern companies start from their own block pattern which differ from one another.

[@lilibetp]

Not really about block patterns, but something I figured out on myself a few years ago. I have a bit of a sway-back and big backside (my waist is lower in front than back, like naturally s-curve era), so my skirts are shorter in back. If I hem the front shorter, the skirt doesn't hang properly. I have to raise the skirt at the front waist, and then it works.

[@reginawilliams226]

For years my struggle has been my long waist from center of pants (crotch) to waist in the back. But finally just put a wedge like on a pair of jeans that helps greatly! Thank you for your beautiful inspiring words to help us here!

[@maryphibbs8404]

thank you for simplifying this.

[@AnneBeamish]

I learned how to make a block ages ago...there are so many formulas for different patterns/ styles. I would love to re-learn these skills and KZbin is so helpful. For now, I just want a basic pattern that fits... so not too much for my skills, rusty as they are.

[@allissadolinger3271]

Evelyn, thank you!!!!! So many questions answered!!!!!

[@tina8513]

That was brilliant ! And explains why I haven't made a block yet. I love trying new designs, and I know what alterations to make.

[@Evelyn__Wood]

That's right!! You can mske any pattern fit!

[@illustr8life863]

Highly recommend Vintage Sewing School! I’ve only been a student for a few days and I’ve already learned so much! My lack of experience has caused some painful mistakes but now I feel confident that Evelyn will help me accomplish my goal. Izzy

[@lindarenault7187]

I love your videos Evelyn, and this is another good one! I bought two 1970s dress patterns at a vintage fair and I am looking forward to trying them once I can get out to fabric shops again.

[@judithgreenwood6247]

I use a sloper to lay onto a commercial pattern to see where it needs fitting. These days with especially independents drafting for all different heights, cups, etc. it can save a project. One designer drafts for 5’-7”, I’m a little under 5’-2”, but long legged. I’m a D cup, many draft for a B or a C. If I have to approach each pattern as if I don’t know who I am, I’ll never sew.

[@franziskahuber9664]

Lmao, I've been sewing for a couple months and I've started doing this without knowing this was a thing. 'Oh, I'm using a sloper..', sounds so much more professional than 'I keep dicking around with this one really simple pattern and it always somehow turns into a completely different piece'.

[@michelelommasson5970]

So valuable! Years ago I had a block fitted to me, and I did use it to make a variety of garments. But, these days, I have been doing just as Evelyn advises. Did I realize that was what I was doing? Not until Evelyn pointed it out! It works. As I learn more, I continue to refine the fit of my favorite garments. Also, I find it useful to copy garments I have purchased which fit me. If it fits well, and it’s flattering, it’s a great way to go. I’ve also learned that it is time saving to purchase patterns which have features I like. I can adapt those features, such as an interesting collar shape, or ruffled blouse front, to my favorite blouse pattern, for example. ❤️

[@ericapelz260]

No offense intended, Evelyn; the majority of your point is accurate but could be clearer. A basic block or sloper is a close-fitting pattern. From there, it is a matter of adding style lines and ease (roominess) for a specific design. from a single block, you can go from 18th-century tightly fitted bodices to '50s, current, or futuristic looks. For anyone who wants to go down the basic block rabbit hole, I suggest The Closet Historian's basic block playlist. (sorry for recommending the "competition")

[@suemetzger5302]

I was so excited to learn about blocks, then you taught me something. I worked on a free pattern. Made the adjustments on the pattern but need to make my mock up and work on the rise and butt fit. Those are my problem areas

[@Parakeetfriend4215]

Knowing what your figure is and your measurements will really help. I knew neither and have been doing what you say for decades and made things for myself that don't fit, now I know it's because I don't know my own figure. Not everyone has an hourglass figure, I sure don't. But I agree, this is really the simpliest way to do patterns with the most variety quickly . I learned this from my mom because I have an odd figure and needed inbetween sizes even when I was a child and a teen. Yeah, learn to sew so that you don't have to buy stuff that doesn't fit. Sigh

[@jeanwestackroyd2966]

I listened with interest, Evelyn ! I don't think I will get much sewing done of any kind, until well into next year now. Its good to hear what you and others have to say though. I appreciate your videos, thanks for sharing them.

[@musicmama2864]

Yes! I adjust for narrow shoulders and shortness above the bust and in the waist. I'm just starting to get some basic designs done (I use indie designers). I want these both for new construction and for refashioning.

[@rebeccabrothers8056]

I hope you post more real soon, your videos are so educational, I especially enjoy your refashioning videos! Have a great day!

[@Evelyn__Wood]

I just posted another video today!! 😀

[@Plookiss]

I've just attended a intro to bodice fitting workshop local to me and came away with a bodice fitting pattern. Now I have been researching all day to figure out how to use this with commercial patterns. Thank you for the explanation. in this video. It would be fab to see an example of a block/ sloper being used to alter a commercial pattern video if possible.

[@donnabronner4837]

This makes so much sense to me! I've been struggling with these ideas.

[@carom7960]

I’m learning so much from your channel.😊 I’ve been sewing for years, but have just started again. I’ve got a block/ slower system & am trying to do that, so my stash of commercial patterns can be made to fit. The design thing, you’re right-it’s really hard to know how to do that. Which is why I love commercial patterns- it’s already done. They just don’t fit me- I don’t have a defined waist, & I’m shorter than the basic pattern is worked for. But making the block has me leaning more about darts etc. Ie my almost nonexistent waist & smaller tummy means I don’t need the big dart. The waist ends up too tight- now I know why I spent years removing darts to almost nothing!! I going to check out your fitting video,to help me with this next stage. I’ve nearly finished my first dress made from drafting off a dress I own,based on my block knowledge & it’s the best thing I’ve made. Even though it’s not really…messy etc. But it’s also the first I’ve overlocked & pressed during the process..😅. I’m a work in progress! Again, thank you for your info! So helpful!

[@mllep3259]

Having sewn for ages, I should have a sloper, but just usually do a try out with the tissue pattern or if really ambitious, a muslin. What I would love to be able to do is look at a photo of a garment and be able to know what the pattern pieces would be like. It's possible with it actually there to figure out, but just in a picture so difficult with certain styles!

[@heidiwatts1310]

Everything you said makes complete sense. Thank as always for sharing your wealth of experience. I’ve just bought a few vintage dress patterns; it tickled me they came in one size only back then, but there is one in particular that I think is going to have so much mileage in for me. The flat pattern measurements are almost there so with a few tweaks.... exciting 😃

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Heidi thanks for watching! And how exciting! Yes just a few tweaks ans you've got this! ❤

[@vindeljay]

I'm fascinated by this. I might look into how to get some cheeper patterns to try this out, to add to my current learning process. I've just become interested in making my own clothes to have more choices, get a better fit for me, save money and enjoy the process of learning. I also want to make things I see already made, so do want to learn a little about pattern drafting. I didn't think of mixing the two together.

[@lfuentes4098]

The basic sloper is the foundation from which blocks are made. The sloper usually is a very fitted garment. Then you create blocks, or the master pattern such as a torso block, knit block, shirt block etc. from the sloper. The blocks have some ease and are very basic and don’t have any style lines. You can then create your custom patterns from those blocks. The blocks can also help you adjust commercial patterns. I came across a channel here called Sew with Sally and she does a great tutorial on draping the basic torso sloper on the body. Also, another channel called, Sew Anastasia has a great tutorial on drafting the basic sloper in flat pattern form.

[@michellebyrom6551]

I agree with you. Between this and your body type style finder video you cover a lot. The space in between of finding good basics that are easily adjusted would probably be equally useful for newer sewers. What garment keeps showing up in that part of your wardrobe that gets worn often? Button down shirts or long sleeved tee-shirt tops &c. Looking for inbuilt variations like different sleeves/collars/lengths. Using multi part patterns for this like Simplicity design your own or New Look design your look. Adding/removing trims and embellishments to alter the formality of a garment. A knee length wrap summer dress in gingham with picot lace trim is totally different in feel to the same dress at ankle length in shot silk with self piping. Varying material weights slightly for the season, like poplin for a summer shirt and flannel for the winter. Seams and finished edges need to be considered. You get the picture, I'm sure.

[@thefarmerswifecanada]

Such valuable information, thank you! I’m just trying to “level up” my skills, so this will help me so much.

[@annazann7236]

Great video (as always :)) For me the key phrase is "EVERY pattern". Time and again... pure nightmare. So I've chosen the middle way: drafted my own block and construct from it based on the commercial patterns I buy. Lots of fun :) I love converting patterns, as long as it is not the same set of fitting fixes every single time. I will surely recommend making your own sets of blocks. After making a few basic designs out of it (eg: princess cut dress) every next pattern takes less time, because I do reuse already drafted ones as my starting point.

[@Elkycreates]

This is such a helpful video. Thank you! I have also found that you can copy the pattern from a garment that fits you perfectly and go from there.

[@angelanice]

This has been exactly how my sewing journey went! I even added bell sleeves to a dress 😂 I'm now finding myself wanting to draft my own patterns and was curious if making a block would help me do that. I already got a dress form and I'm in the process of adjusting it to my shape so I can try draping to see if that works for me 😊

[@lindaweber3083]

I am so happy to have found you just this week.

[@LizjaneMD]

I just spent a month drafting and fitting a skirt block, (and it’s still not perfect. I have both a swayback and uneven hips, as well as a belly to adjust for.) iI’s a very worthwhile experience, though. You really learn about the shape of your body, as well as how blocks can be manipulated to create an endless variety of patterns. It helps you feel a lot less like a slave to a pattern.

[@swiinka]

Interesting video! I have heard of those blocks and drafting kits, but never thought of buying one. So far I've been hacking commercial patterns I have (with alterations when necessary). Seems cheaper (I looked up a drafting kit for bodices lately, just for the craic, it was ridiculously expensive) and easier, since patterns usually come with instructions and even some information on alterations. And the good part is: even when one doesn't expand the pattern to make some variations to the style of the garment, or maybe these changes don't work out - there is always the out-of-the-box style to fall back on. I suppose the way to go towards constructing a bunch of blocks is to buy patterns that offer multiple style variations and then mix and match? For example, I bought a top pattern that has a cowl neck, fancy cuffs, a hood and banded hem - and not only I get tons of permutations from all these design elements within one pattern, but also I could combine them with other patterns, for example use the hood pattern with a raglan top pattern I got some place else.

[@TheGrifhinx]

A sloper is usually pretty nice for personal purposes because with that and the commercial pattern, you can trace the final pattern that would (in theory) fit your body (there would still be fittings just to be sure; don't be lazy). And from there, it's just adjustments as needed. The sloper is extremely handy for taking note of your personal measurements which can then be reapplied nearly endless times to designs as you come across them

[@HiThereImFootloose]

That blouse or dress is fucking fabulous! Thanks for the video.

[@babblesp1367]

I really love your top. I’m guessing you made that. I’m wanting to learn how to make clothes, which is why I watched this video. I need them to fit nicely the way yours does.

[@raeafoley6131]

I looove that top!😇 You haven't worn that in ages! At least not on camera!😜 It's such a good colour for you! And personally I love that green!😁🌈

[@Evelyn__Wood]

I know right! I was wearing it thinking the same thing! 😄

[@charlenemcgill7913]

Thanks for this vid. I have made so many slopers, but I am stuck and don't know how to get to the next level.

[@lunasmum6869]

An intereting subject. I have a pattern making software thingy on my laptop and the first thing they say to do is make my personal sloper/block. I've never been sure how to use one. So, I have never used this programme I spent quite a lot of money on! As you say, I already know I have to make a full bust adjustment and also length and possibly hips and waist as well depending on the style. It isn't any good going for a larger size as, though the hips and waist would fit and maybe the bust but the fit wouldn't be good as the larger size would be a bad fit across my shoulders and armscye. Oh for my teenage years when everything fitted perfectly with no adjustment!

[@tammymasson2343]

This may be a dumb question, but do I need to deconstruct a garment that I finally get to fit the way I want, in order to transfer my changes and create my own adjusted pattern pieces? You are really helping to demystify this process of learning to adjust to achieve properly fitted handmade garments! Thank you!

[@suttonbrybry]

Awesome. I'm subscribing. New male sewer here.

[@susan5223]

Hi Evelyn! If I am working out fit on my block, and there are multiple things that need changing, What should I do first? Sleeves are really hard. If I have to change anything about the arm hole, I really have no idea how to figure out the sleeve....Help! Thank you so much for your help 😊

[@karuzelastudio7858]

Learning all about patternmaking may indeed take decades. But 2 weeks can give you the skills and understanding to construct all basics. Way better return on time invested than fiddling with ready made patterns. Back when I learned patternmaking it was costly. These days, the access to knowledge is free.

[@ma6kaf882]

In my experience i have too much to change in the commercial pattern. Because I'm not really close to standard. So for me block pattern was an answer. I was able to successfuly sew for myself only after i went to the professional who was able to make the block pattern that was perfect on me, it took us just 4 sessions. And now i can use it to make any design i want. My measarments hips 38, waist 26, bust 37 inch. With the hight 5,3ft. + round back. So if you are that far from standart you can try to make a block pattern to start with.

[@noshrinkingviolet1]

Loved your video, very well explained 🙂 I just wondered if I made a block for myself on my own measurements.....would I then have to do a full bust adjustment on the block for a full bust or not? Thank you.... It just a bit confusing 🙂

[@heatherherbstreit549]

So helpful and easy to understand.

[@paulinelevesque]

The title of this video was exactly the answer to the question in my head 😂 Thanks for answering that ❤ But if I have to do the same thing with every pattern, wouldn‘t that mean that every pattern uses the same blocks? I am usually already confused on which size to use when I buy patterns, because they use such different measurements. And don’t they also use different body shapes?

[@yolandaflower5749]

Wow, I needed to hear this! I can't wait to get started.

[@theprofessionaldesignertpd]

It will definitely!

[@grahamreed1175]

This is wonderful. Stuff I didn't realise I needed to know. But had already maybe started to do on some garments (shirts). Question: Do you have any advice/ideas about men's vintage clothing?

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Only that it is waaaaayyyy easier to fit! 😄

[@blazertundra]

Funny I just decided last night to start drafting my first pattern, using a modified commercial slip dress pattern as the block. And then I woke up this morning to this video!

[@debbiestherapy]

I love the top you are wearing in this video!

[@donnabenjamin9266]

I found this helpful. Your top is very flattering. What material is it and is the pattern you show for that style? I'm looking forward you more video's!

[@moyralouise7123]

Such a confidence building video, thank you 🙏

[@MiljaHahto]

To get a fitting pattern I need many complex adjustments. Not just bust/waist/hip measurement - those would be easy. It's the whole bust/shoulder area and back length vs front length, height of the armscye etc. On a sloping drawing course even the teacher didn't have either the time or the skill to make it work, because even the drawing system didn't allow for this kind of deviance from the standard. And doing them on my own is almost impossible. So... Is it wonder that I'm not sewing many clothes these days? It's been too difficult to make them fit since teenage, not usually having fitting help.

[@rhythmictiger]

I've been wondering what these are! I think I saw the closet Historian using one and I was intrigued and mystified.

[@vickrickers]

Evelyn thank you for this video. I’m Aussie girl too. Can you tell me where on your site I can go to learn these fitting classes. I saw it is in US $ so I was just a bit confused and how much. Thank you kindly. Susie K

[@Evelyn__Wood]

Susan I'm so excited your interested in VSS and taking your sewing further! Yes, as most of my audience is in the US, and I can have only one currency, it's in USD. If you have further questions about it just email [e-mail] 😀

[@clare9637]

The colour and style of the top you're wearing is stunning. At 64 I am just beginning my journey into sewing. I haven't threaded a sewing machine since I was at school. Do you thread all machines in the same way? Thank you for making learning this process sound achievable.

[@lovecats6856]

What I do is find the manual online for the particular machine

[@clare9637]

@@lovecats6856 Thank you, That makes a lot of sense. Why didn't I think of that!!!

[@patriciajrs46]

I have not been able to find night gowns that I like. I'm not the frilly, lacey type. I like old fashioned, longer length nighties, instead of these skimpy, flimsies. I've been trying to figure out how to make my own.