Marking a Faceplate for my old 1931 South Bend - 11

[@CraigsWorkshop]

I really enjoyed that Winky. Thanks for the video.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks!

[@dannywilsher4165]

I started a backing plate for a 3 jaw chuck on my 13 x 36 lathe over a year ago and it is still chucked up in the chuck... I need to get my house finished so I can get back in my shop!!!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

No kidding!!! Ha, thank for watching

[@craigtate5930]

Good stuff. Definitely eager to see the gears ya build with this setup too

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... me too! Ha, it will be a fun adventure!

[@PaulTebbit]

It's nice to see an old lathe in use I have an old atlas 1940 ish

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I love the old machines

[@alanjackson4397]

Nice job, looks good

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks 👍

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Downright good job there Winky.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Harold

[@secretsix6]

that hole saw took me back to my early twenty's working as a gas borer in a welsh coal mine the hole saw was used to drill holes into the gas suction pipes it was a starrett hole saw i found it in my workshop last year

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool, thanks for watching!

[@robertharper8776]

loved video winky made faceplate for my south bend last week and made the same bozo! happy Thanksgiving!!!!!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The same mistake? Ha... hopefully it worked out well.

[@robertharper8776]

@@WinkysWorkshop it did love the south bends

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@robertharper8776 Yeah... I love this lathe too.

[@carlwhite8225]

Very Nice Job.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@TomokosEnterprize]

How nice to see my friend this fine fall/winters day. Hey bud ! I love these little (NOT) one off jobs that continue to improve your tooling etc. Especially when you bring back jigs and fixtures from the dusty shelves. Just like the conversion to/for your saw again. Your analog approach to everything (except the Lathe) is always so endearing for me as it is the way my world works. No DRO HERE EH ! Nice job of adapting the vise to work in favor for you. Many would have given up at these hurdles. I have welded a piece down to my 6 inch saw to handle a 10 inch cut eh. Why not as it works with no damage to the saw being able to work as it should. A RECOVERY, HELL YES. It won't be the first time and thanks for including that as I have just done the same on my channels new post. It shares our humanity eh, LOL. A couple/three dogs and you are in business my dear fried. Thanks for the post eh. Take care now !

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Good to hear from you! Yeah, no DRO on the lathe but I do have them on the mill. Very handy.

[@TomokosEnterprize]

@@WinkysWorkshop Just more to learn about things that really no longer effect me. Just once in over 40 years have I used one and it was confusing as ever eh. Some old dogs eh, LOL.

[@frogdavw9699]

I do Not have much to say, just wanted to Feed the algorithm to show thanks for all the good videos

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks man!

[@deangdmppajj4692]

Thanks for the video. I too have an old southbend lathe 1942. As I have no faceplate this is going to be a future project

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Right on!

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Excellent job winky, came out great..

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you! 🤗

[@EverettsWorkshop]

That came out very well, and still has plenty of good threads in it. Nice job!

[@Morkmtw]

Thanks! Yeah I agree. Still plenty of thread especially if I'm just using it to drive a dog.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks again

[@stevenfoster1940]

I like that adapter you made for your plate on your bandsaw I'm going to be doing that now too

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'd like to take credit for this but somebody else gave me the idea. It works great!

[@bombardier3qtrlbpsi]

Nice job.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@stevelecain886]

great video as usual, i am going to try and make one a bit bigger then the one I have. can't wait to watch the gear making that will be awesome.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! Yeah the gear cutting will be fun.

[@davidharris5736]

I have a Boxford Lathe a Southbend 9" clone. It's a 'metric' cutting lathe with change wheels I need a plate and think about making one. It's a bit crazy that it has an imperial headstock thread I can't cut! Nice Job. btw I am binging on your videos. Very informative and enjoyable!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks David. Yes that is crazy that the spindle threads are not metric. I'm guessing this was an attempt to standardize chucks or rather take advantage of a somewhat standardized size. 1-1/2" is very common on older lathes.

[@scififan698]

You do magic, man! Very inspiring projects, I love it!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Magic? Not sure about that but thanks!

[@tooltimechris7217]

Awesome job!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@d.graydraftinganddesign361]

Nice project Winky. Well presented. Thanks for sharing!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you!

[@Cpl.Cadaver]

I went through a similar process making chuck back plates for a 3" three jaw chuck and a 3" four jaw chuck go from my lathe to my rotary table without removing the work. The taper for the headstock should be a MT#3. My SB 9A has a MT#3 for reference. Thanks for sharing.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks... yeah, i think the taper is a MT3 although its a bit deep. This lathe has a larger spindle and bore than the 9 inch but it may still be the same.

[@kailibxanitoez3528]

@@WinkysWorkshop MT#4 maybe or J8? cnc a test taper out of wood

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@kailibxanitoez3528 Interesting idea... but the 3 seems to work well

[@jimcrichton8028]

A great practical machining exercise, much enjoyed.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it and thanks!

[@cdrive5757]

Mark, I have a box marked "Giant F*****G Lathe Dogs"? I think I picked them up at one of those machinist flea markets that I'd go to when visiting my sister way up there in PA. I don't remember what I bought from that guy but I remember he said " I'm cleaning out some stuff. It's a package deal. These go too"! They must have held cannon barrels! 😆 Wakodahatchee Chris

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I have one that takes 2" bar. It was almost too big for this plate.

[@jimzivny1554]

Watching this video gave me an idea for my own South Bend (1943 10") I thought I'd share. I'm going to make a double end plug with 1 3/4 8tpi threads male and female to check threads as I make accessories, it'll avoid having to remove the chuck during the thread cutting. I'm not that good at picking up threads yet. It could save you some time during projects.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

For one plate I didn't think it was worth the effort but considering I've already made 3 face plate this would have been the best approach! It would probably be good to measure your test threads with wires but maybe testing the fit in an old chuck would work well enough.

[@TERRYB0688]

Nice one Mr Winky, everybody makes silly mistakes, we are to involved in the making, nice you showed the mistake buy hay it came out great and all make from stock laying around the shop, would have cost $50 to buy 👴🏻👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks. The South Bend 11 has an oddball thread size and couldn't find one to buy anyway. plus the ones I've seen on ebay go for $100 or more anyway.

[@umahunter]

One tip I'll offer when cutting thicker steel with a larger hole saw well it helps any hole saw start the saw then take the saw off and drill 2-3 holes that just intersect the cut line endmills work great to get a straight intersect this gives somewhere for the chips to get pushed outta the hole you'll cut through faster and won't grind as much on your saw teeth continually cutting into chips packed in the hole any holes better than nothing but I like 1/2 holes for larger hole saws 👍👍👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, I've heard of doing that and probably would have if I'd thought about it. Certainly even one hole would help. Of course this is why I sucked the chips out with a vacuum. When I use a hole saw in wood I keep an air nozzle blowing into the cut. I'm guessing that would help with metal too although it would make a mess.

[@umahunter]

@@WinkysWorkshop yes shop vac and air help a lot it also usually depends if I wanna keep the hole for something as well if it doesn't have to be super accurate sometimes I just flip it over on the thicker stuff it's seems over half inch is about where it starts getting hard to get the chips out oh also if you look on starrett Lenox etc they'll have a hole saw speed chart for different metals and sizes I printed out a couple small around 3x5 size and covered them in clear packing tape that I keep in my hole saw box's and chart folder 👍👍👍

[@dough6393]

Nice job sir!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@jimzivny1554]

Great project.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Jim!

[@paulilko]

Good one Winky! Use the Formula, Pitch X 0.6495 to calculate depth of thread. This formula works for 60 degree threads. So using your thread as an example, 8 tpi = 0.125 thousands X 0.6495 = 0.0811 thousands depth of thread. Wind that in on your topslide and you get pretty close to where you need to be. Give it a shot, works for me every time!!!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You know what? You are correct. I went a little larger than I really wanted to but based on what I found on the topic you simply reduce the diameter by the by the pitch. In other words, 8TPI would be 1/8 of one inch or in my case 1.5" This method makes 70 to 75% threads but when making internal threads I'd rather go with 100% threads. Mostly because it's easy to judge the depth, when the threads are sharp you are close but on a backing plate I want close to 100% anyway. Thanks for the info. I'll right this down and post it in my shop.

[@paulilko]

@@WinkysWorkshop When I did my Fitting & Machining Apprenticeship 50+ years ago we were taught to set the compound slide @ 90 degrees ( ie parallel with the bed of the lathe.) The cross slide was used to dial in the depth of cut and then every 3rd or 4th cut we dialed in a thou or two on the compound slide. Using this method kept the cut on the forward cutting edge of the tool. Once the calculated thread depth was reached an extra thou or so on the compound was all that was needed to make the thread fit. BTW love your channel.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@paulilko - Very interesting approach. I suspect I could do this and get good results but the amount of compound feed could be a tricky thing for some.

[@jrkorman]

Nice build Mark - For the price I've seen some, I'd just cruise ebay a bit and find some dogs!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, I actually found some on the Little Machine Shop web site that were very cheap. I bought 3/4" through 2".

[@EmmaRitson]

thats nice! looks just the thing.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Emma!

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

Thanks for another entertaining project. I need a 12 inch faceplate for an upcoming job, and I was wondering about making one. Not sure how brave I'm feeling though!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

If its a thread mount the process will be the same. And your welcome.

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

@@WinkysWorkshop It has a D1-4 Camlock fitting, so I think I could machine a steel hub with a taper and buy spare camlock pins. After that, the job would be the same as for a threaded mount. I might make a cast iron insert for the taper though, don't want to risk any damage from a steel version. Lots of fun times ahead!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@MachiningandMicrowaves For sure, good luck and have fun

[@RelentlessHomesteading]

Ditto on some other commenters -- great faceplate -- looking forward to watching it in use. Don't see much with faceplates anymore.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... I also mounted a collet chuck for the lathe so I tend to use the face plate less.

[@RelentlessHomesteading]

@@WinkysWorkshop Collet chuck system would be very handy for getting more precision while not marring the pieces. You have a very nice shop - I'm just learning on the machining aspects as I build up some basic tools.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@RelentlessHomesteading Collets are amazing. I have the ER40 which goes up to about 1-inch. I say "about" because I think they make a 1-1/8" oversize collet as well. I haven't use it much yet but the accuracy is amazing. Hobby machinist work is amazing and fun but I'm not sure I'd want to do it full time. Making hundreds of one part is very boring. The best part about the hobby is you can make whatever you imagine (within reason). With a lathe, mill, drill press, grinder, saw and welder you can do a LOT.

[@RelentlessHomesteading]

@@WinkysWorkshop I was looking at collet sets - pretty reasonable. But need the whole drawbar setup added here on a Logan 920. Hobby vs. Work : Totally agree. 🙄😬🤢 I could never make much money with such - I just work too slowly. And I get bored very easily... Anything repetitive and I want to write a program to do it. Perhaps all the years of engineering and patent legal work -- too much time thinking it through and trying to get it right. That's fine in a design when you are making millions of them, or in legal work that when its wrong you don't get a patent; but in manual work -- well I'd be broke, unless I only worked for the very wealthy that wanted it REALLY RIGHT and were willing to pay for it. LOL. I grew up in a long line of builders -- perhaps that's why I love it so much. And although my work was always electronics I sure enjoy working with materials WAY more than being on the computer. We moved out in the country about a dozen years ago to get more self-sufficient for what is ahead. So all this great hobby work is not only very enjoyable, but aids my skill set. I won't be quitting my work from home day job though -- haha RH

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@RelentlessHomesteading Yeah... something drastic will likely happen, the question is, when? I guess I'll be one of the millions unprepared or more than likely I'll be dead before it happens - it's hard to say. As for the collets, look into the ER type. No draw bar and you can still use the bore in your spindle. They clamp with a nut in front of the collet. They are a little slower to use but nothing significant. They make a ball bearing nut which I recommend. I think I paid $40 for mine. All Industrial sells an excellent set of collets for about $100. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2LJqqyZia-kaKM

[@RAYAR54]

Great video, Mark. Got the small face plate with mine, I believe 4". Didn't get any dawgs, though. I believe the larger one is 8". The small one has one slot cut through the edge.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I might cut one slot through the edge in the future. If you need dogs get them at the Little Machine Shop web site. They have good prices on them. I just ordered 5 of them.

[@RAYAR54]

@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks Mark, I'll look them up.

[@andyZ3500s]

Hi Mark, if you are using a #3 Morse taper on your lathe and the large diameter seems tighter than the small end your lathe is probably meant to have a #8 Jarno taper. The Jarno taper was pretty popular back then. The taper is almost the same as the Morse taper. All Jarno tapers are .600 taper per foot while a #3 Morse is .602 per foot. The dimensions are easy to figure out on the Jarno tapers. The length is half of the number, the larger dia. Is the number × .125 and the small end is the number × .100. With a 60 degree center your taper should work out to .600 per foot. It has been a long time since I have dealt with one so I would look it up before making one.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Wow... thanks Andy, you might be right. It seems to fit well but it's too deep in the spindle. The difference between the two tapers is so slight that it would be hard to tell but how it fits!

[@rightwinggunslinger1]

Hey! Been meaning to ask you something. You see, time is not on my side with kids and work etc. And neither is money.. I asked other you tube machinists, nobody has a need or desire to do it. Anyway what I would like is to build a steady rest for my 15" leblond but i'd really like to watch you do it first. Special emphasis on measuring the ways geometry and a hinged opening with roller fingers. Thanks in advance lol. Seriously thanks for what you do. It is appreciated.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I made a video on this although if I had it to do over I'd put bearing on the ends of the fingers. You might get some idea by looking at this video however. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqTSgoaols2an7M

[@rightwinggunslinger1]

@@WinkysWorkshop thank you x100. Surprised it didn't come up for me in previous video searches. I have watched a lot of your vids too. Really mean it when I said I appreciate you. What you are providing will be passed on to my 3 little boys. I built up a home shop while in the army and it will be theirs to keep this country great with. Get some stickers sometime. I cannot afford shirts and mugs but owe you and some others a beer.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@rightwinggunslinger1 You are very welcome. Hopefully the video will help in some way.

[@stevewilliams2498]

I think I might have re-machined the outside register on the other end. The inner one was cut at the same time as the thread and the extra shoulder on the outside wouldn't spoil the job.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The inside clearance and threads should have been cut without removing it from the chuck. The outside relief for the weld wasn't critical at all. I probably should have used it and cut another relief on the other end. If I had it to do over I'd cut the relief for the plate last. For a face plate it really wont matter but if this had been a chuck backing plate I would have started over. Yeah... I messed up, but it's usable and probably even accurate seeing as how I finished the surface with the plate mounted.

[@gabewhisen3446]

Nice work winkster

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks 😁

[@goldeee666]

hey that turned out real nice man. making a driving dog is pretty easy. and you could mark out degrees on the rim

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool idea

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

First...LIKE IT...Happy Thanksgiving Winky

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks you sir! Same to you!

[@bensonyoutuber7944]

I would like to get a faceplate for my lathe. I finally figured out the internal taper, so I bought a center. But the faceplates are a little pricey, so I have been waiting for the project to really call for it. I plan to cast a blank out of aluminum, then I’d just have to get over the fear of internal threading. Seems like a good winter project.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Internal threading is easy but when you make the effort to cast a part it becomes stressful. Use the formula in the comments below (So using your thread as an example, 8 tpi = 0.125 thousands X 0.6495 = 0.0811 thousands depth of thread. ) for the hole size.

[@joell439]

Super nice 👍👍😎👍👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@MyLilMule]

Nice job, Mark. I need to make a back plate for a 10" 4-Jaw chuck I bought recently. I've been told for threaded spindles, these should be made out of cast iron as it reduces vibration and minimizes the chance of galling the spindle thread. I have no idea if any of that is true. LOL!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I think that is BS... Oops. But seriously, I have made 5 steel backing plates and in every case they have reduced chatter. With that being said, the strength of a thread mount increases exponencial with diameter. On a 1.5" diameter spindle a steel backing plate is stronger. As diameter increases the strength increases drastically. I'm guessing a 2" threaded spindle is 10 to 20 times stronger at the threads than a 1.5" spindle. So at larger diameters the cast might have a slight advantage over steel. Watch this video I made. At the 3-minute mark the backing plate pulls away from the spindle back register. I later made a steel backing plate and could not replete these results. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6S8pqaOo812h7s

[@MyLilMule]

@@WinkysWorkshop I have a chunk of 4150 I could use to make the back plate, but it is ever so slightly undersized. It wouldn't really matter - it's a 4-jaw after all - but the thread galling would by my biggest concern that makes me rather use cast. I can get a piece from McMaster cheap enough.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@MyLilMule I suppose it is possible but I I've never had a problem. Most spindles are hardened and I used mild steel. 4150 is soft unless you hardened it.

[@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc]

Just a thought, peening a weld will reduce deformation! It's worth a try! Cheers, Matthew

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'd say it might help but it really did fairly well and surfacing corrected the distortion anyway.

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

good video winkys

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@millomweb]

4:22 If you'd made a hole in the middle of it and found a taper shank drill of the size of the hole - then put the TS drill in the rotary table and clamped the plate to the rotary table - you could have milled the edge round !

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... I've done that a few times. The last time I did that I broke the gear in my Chinese rotary table. The lathe works fantastic even if trimming the plate on the bandsaw is a little slow.

[@millomweb]

25:45 Face the back of the plate too - it'll look a lot better when turning.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I guess.... the run out was hardly noticeable.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Well done Mark, looks great…. On your lathe dogs try to avoid the cast ones forged are much better. There’s some decent looking ones on eBay under the Select brand. They’re from China of course never tried them but the photos look pretty good.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the heads up. I just bough some from The Little Machine Shop. They are probably cast but hard to say.

[@stefantrethan]

sure that's not a #4 in the spindle? I was shouting at the screen when you did the undercut but it was no use ;-) My spindle has tapered threads and I have no idea yet how to make a backplate for it. I think taper attachment or electronic leadscrew. So far I bought only chucks to fit the flange I have and change them there.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Haha... I can't hear you! What kind of lathe? Tapered threads? I've seen worn threads that look tapered but never made that way. You could cut them with a tapering attachment although you have to reverse after every pass.

[@millomweb]

6:37 Half of 2 3/16....... Half of 2 is 1 Half of ?/16 is always ?/32 - you don't need a ruler to work out fractions - it's one of the smart features of working with fractions instead of metric !

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Very true. I was using my head not the ruler (even if it looked like I was). I just felt under pressure (brain freeze). You are absolutely correct. This is one positive aspect to fractions.

[@neillawson4493]

If you wanted to machine the back of the plate you could reverse the plate on the thread.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

For sure. It wasn't very far out of alignment so I didn't bother. Also with my screw up on the unthreaded area it would have seated well.

[@millomweb]

21:50 Where's the emergency stop button ? Don't take the threads off the other side, just turn that end of the collar down to fit the plate !

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Absolutely! I screwed up!

[@tunafish3216]

Why don’t you just flip it and face the other side you have the counter bore on the front side anyway.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... I probably should have also though the runout on the back is slight and doesn't matter. But you are right, my screw up would have made this work well.

[@dalemcinnes1834]

Why couldn't you still do that? Would not take much effort and then you would have a reason for doing both sides if anyone ever asked? Dale in Canada

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@dalemcinnes1834 I don't see the need but yes, it would be easy to do.

[@jarredquebedeau5665]

I love to cnc .

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Me too

[@trollforge]

Mark, you might want to rethink the red border on the thumbnail... A red underline in the video feed means that you have already watched it... I can't be the only one who scrolled past because the red told me that I had already watched...

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the info, I have never seen this!!! What video feed are you talking about?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You must be watching this via a specific TV. My KZbin home page and suggested videos have no red outline on watched videos. Certainly I need to change this even if the percent of people seeing this is small but I am very curious where you are seeing this.

[@trollforge]

@@WinkysWorkshop No, Mark, I don't watch KZbin on the TV... Only on the Android Phone app, of on the computer on KZbin's website...

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@trollforge - Yeah... I figured out where you were seeing this. Thanks for letting me know. I'll change future thumbnails. Thanks.

[@jarredquebedeau5665]

I live in south bend ,near clay high school , near state line road

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool