❄️ Winter Sewing Tutorial ❄️ How to make a Side-Buttoned Dress (jumper/pinafore) *complex* 😅😬😳

Another brain-melter for you! This has been the #1 requested video, and I kept putting it off. Now I know why. It's quite a complicated project, both the patterning and the sewing. But I want to make sure I stress: this is how I constructed mine. There are a hundred ways you could simplify it and still come up with a piece that looks pretty much identical from the outside.
TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:44 Design & Inspiration
02:45 The Pattern
08:26 The Bodice
13:36 The Skirt
17:23 Waistband & Buttons
21:00 Final Look
21:43 Review
FIND ME ELSEWHERE
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MUSIC BY epidemicsound.com and KZbin Audio Library
1. A Bard's Minuet - Jon Bjork
2. Peace in the Realm - Bonnie Grace
3. A Path Well Trodden - Jon Bjork
4. Belvedere Castle - Million Eyes
5. Pas De Basque - Million Eyes
6. Tip - Million Eyes
7. Ropes Away - Adriel Fair
8. The Way You Danced With Him - The Flax

[@DrAmandroid]

I really liked your process of walking us through your diagrams. It made everything so clear! It's easy to get a bit lost following tutorials from people using self-drafted patterns, but showing us all of the pattern pieces, and how you drafted each one, made it SO easy to follow along when you began constructing. I personally would love to see more tutorials like this!

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@AJisreading]

Normally when I see a winter sewing video, I - an Australian, dealing with the summer heat - go "ah well, not for me". This time though, I was like, hey maybe by the time it's winter here my sewing will have improved enough to try this myself! Then I watched the video. Maybe winter 2023.

[@MariahPattie]

😭❤️🤞

[@michellebyrom6551]

You could make a reversible cotton version. Use poplin and muslin to prevent see through. Plain poplin and patterned muslin for two different looks. Contrast stitching on one side for style detail. Sew on two sets of buttons at once, like the reinforcement buttons on the inside of a coat. Now there's a challenge for neat finishing. Lol.

[@lucyspearl]

Pocket-stitching tip just blew my mind. Like, why haven't I thought to do this?! You are teaching people to "think" about the construction and improve existing techniques. Thanks!

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@jenndoesstuff]

I legit still have thread from my grandmother's stash of polyester thread in inexplicably garish colors and I've been working through it for years. I use it exclusively for sewing inside seams and edge binding, thread marking/basting, or repairing dog toys. I think I've got a handful of spools left. So many of the inside seams of my garments are just like day-glo pink or baby vomit green. Eventually, I will accomplish my hopes of an all-organic thread collection, but that's a ways off.

[@MariahPattie]

Maybe it was the era. Those colors all fit very well with the late 60’s early 70’s

[@jenndoesstuff]

​@@MariahPattie Oh, absolutely it was the era but she was also a super colorful person. She wore bright red lipstick every day and massive colorful costume jewelry. She was iconic, tbh.

[@Aphexic]

I really love your videos Mariah I've been an industrial sewing machinist for the past 12 years but have never sewn any clothing before, I started watching your videos to learn a bit about garment making as one of my apprentices wants to get into the fashion industry It's unlikely that I would ever make the same things you make in your videos but the way you communicate and shoot your videos while explaining the perfect amount of detail is something I really appreciate Big fan of your vids and projects, I love the little details you add in here and there Keep up the great work!

[@theresacopeland2451]

LOVED the diagrams-- very easy to follow. thanks so much for sharing your drafting process, as always.

[@MariahPattie]

Whew good. I thought it’d be better, but by the time I finished I was like, is this actually better, or even harder to follow?

[@rachaelbradley4552]

This is one of the best sewing tutorials I've seen on KZbin. Your diagrams were so clear and you are so thorough with your explanations. I'm at the very beginning of my sewing journey and I'm amazed at how much I understood of this video. I've been looking for "sew with me" videos that are so clear I could reproduce what they're doing. Love this video!

[@chiarra644]

Ugh! You're style is my style lol. I absolutely love it and you are inspiring me to start making my own clothes because I want to mostly wear dresses and skirts all year round but I want clothes that properly fit me.

[@elizabethsaltmarsh8306]

I love these sewing tutorials! Even if I won't ever make this exact dress, I always learn something. Your tutorial on pockets came in super handy when I was making 3 maxi half circle skirts, and it's my new favorite method for construction.

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@MrsBrit1]

I see a new Mariah video, I click it. I know it will be thorough, concise, and very interesting.

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@fredryka]

Wow, you achieved great results with both dresses; that’s very impressive! Also, Claire Oswald's outfits are really stylish and comfortable. Also I love the boots too. This video was fantastic because I thoroughly enjoyed it, and now I’m considering the possibility of wearing dresses in winter. I suppose I'll be working on winter dresses, or at least attempting to make them.

[@liv97497]

I find that your videos are really good tutorials, not just an entertaining sewing journal video kind of thing. I really appreciate how much work you put into explaining what you're doing and how it's supposed to work, and the diagrams are always helpful. Explaining the pattern with the footage of the finished piece alongside it is just *chef's kiss*

[@susancheveralllong7694]

I often find the colours I use most are, and end up buying: grey, natural, dark navy, black, white & cherry red. All the classics 🙂

[@necrophiliac.-.cat5695]

i made a side closure dress with button closures on both sides of the dress and i did it all without making a pattern....just draped it on myself and made it. it was awesome

[@michellebyrom6551]

On the pockets between the pleats. A piece of lining material sewn along the top edge of the pocket lifting the top line to sit flat into the waistband would work. Even more support for the pocket, a smooth line on the pleats and no extra bulk added to the hips.

[@Sew_Learning]

Walking us through the process with diagrams made everything a lot more clearer. I did go back and watch the construction a couple of times just to get it to sink in. Really enjoyed this. I always learn something new from you. Me thinks Patreon, here I come. Sending best wishes from Down Under ❤💐 🇦🇺😎

[@crystallionaire]

I was shocked to see I had yet to subscribe to your channel! I was wondering why I haven't seen anything for a while until I saw you pop up on instagram lol Loved how you explained your process :D and I will definitely be here on time for your next video haha

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Thanks! I do appreciate the visual representation of what you did with your pattern, it was like watching TheClosetHistorian's dart wizardry :) I also appreciate the plaid pattern tricks, since if I do something like this, it will be in that wool plaid I bought a lot of!

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@catlova567]

After watching this, I just know I am going to be referencing this video for finishing many times in the future. Thank you for producing such quality content!

[@AdirondackRuby]

I enjoyed this so much! For the pocket "issue" maybe, since it is at a seam, you could leave a gap at that same spot in the lining (and just fell down the seam allowance to prevent fraying) and then, when you put the lining & main together, bring the pocket through that gap and then connect the tape against the lining instead of sandwiched? Hope that idea made sense. That way the skirt & lining lie smoothly against each other instead of puffing away from each other whenever you reach into the pocket. And to finish, you could do a bit of hand-sewing by the pocket gap to secure the seam-allowance of the lining & main together. I'm rambling, but it I can see it all in my head. LOL

[@P0nyl0ve]

Since I'm personally watching these videos for fun and because they're interesting, I prefer seeing you mess around with paper and mockups just because it feels more "personal" than the diagrams. I don't think that would be my opinion if I was watching for educational purposes though:)

[@MariahPattie]

That’s a good point. I probably won’t use only diagrams very often, but this was a complicated one and my footage was a bit of a mess. But for simpler projects I also prefer the real footage.

[@EM-fh2tx]

Very pretty pinafore. Would you consider making self covered buttons? Either in the main fabric or the lining would look good.

[@faith2876]

I love this dress! The fit looks awesome and I appreciate the way you explained the drafting process. This is going on my list for sure (though maybe out of a lighter summer fabric, where I live winters don't really exist).

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@kninjaknitter8190]

The waistband “X” patterns… sideways checks? SO CUTE!

[@ericathefae]

Whoa, what?! I'd really like an in depth tutorial on the mitered corner on the skirt (it didn't really make sense in this quick run through, but I would love to know how to do it).

[@MariahPattie]

I’ll keep that in mind

[@ABC1701A]

Pinafore dresses always look so smart when worn. Probably why our school uniform always looked smarter than the others around us. They had skirts and blouses, we had royal blue pinafores and blouses, with a belt for the winter uniform. Comfortable, smart, practical. I remember mum wearing one with a very similar design to this back in the late 60s, in wool and about the same shade as your jumper (sweater??) is but was an all in one and had a belt, buttons to just below the waist then false buttons to the hem. Thank you for the memory, she usually wore it with a pale blue jumper underneath. So long ago now, glad they are back in style again.

[@mcwjes]

That sounds so sharp looking!

[@coreygilles847]

Okay…this dress is beyond cute! Thank you for showing this can be done

[@michellecornum5856]

I've been slightly obsessed with side button jumpers, lately. I hadn't even thought about linings. Good thing to be aware of before one gets started.

[@asilverfoxintasmania9940]

The diagrams were great! I have followed for the most part your previous descriptions but the diagrams will help me, as I am very differently shaped to you. Thank you! Oh and thank you for the reminder on how great Clara's wardrobe was, I had forgotten!

[@IAmCraftingAgain]

Just found your channel, beautiful explaining, so good! Saving this one for future ideas

[@jessi88lee]

Thanks for the idea about the pocket with the tape to strengthen it. I was just considering how to accomplish that without adding too much bulk now that I have to modify my patterns to accommodate my insulin pump. Much appreciated!

[@mcwjes]

Thank heaven for diagrams! She's a cute dress, but deceptively tricky!

[@cd2street]

Awesome video!! I don't think I have seen anyone else who did a complete 'walk through' the whole process like you have done here and that is so amazing - thank you :)

[@ari.arietty]

It looks so cute, i'd be really temped to try! But it looks like there's a lot to do.

[@mathnerd3364]

I know this is an old video, but I am so glad to have discovered it. My one "wonder" is how much yardage was used.

[@sandradearing604]

U R A true teacher. Your explanations are easy to follow and the processes you have taken and are sharing are so very important! TYTYTY~! You make it all seem possible!

[@jackiejames4551]

It's a cute jumper. Thanks for telling us how you made it.

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@fraeuleinpusteplume2730]

I love this dress. You explained everything reat too. Thank you 🌻

[@lucyspearl]

A little over halfway through the video and I love the way the bodice has turned out, but... Irons are notorious for leaking, so to use a spray bottle to spritz the fabric instead of putting water in the iron is absolutely brilliant. Filling a spray bottle and dumping water out of my iron now. 🤣

[@reefandlilymaggie]

It's so freaking cute.

[@julieheath6335]

I LOVE this make!! Might even make a similar one myself. Thank you for sharing. And the pocket-stitching... perfection. Definitely borrowing that tip.

[@OlichkaNesterova]

I'm just so impressed with all the graphic design on this channel 👏

[@anymeaddict]

Yay!!!! Excited to have a new video!

[@missmsilence]

so beautiful! its so satisfying to see you sew so well

[@fawntheresa5338]

This turned out wonderfully 💜

[@eliza7413]

The jumper turned out so well! And everything lined sounds so nicely warm! When I will try to make this jumper I will have to rewatch and take notes XD

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@Lure-Light]

Im soo ready for this video!!!

[@mariannerady1137]

Beautiful! Thanks for all those diagrams, so helpful

[@sumiyatuli7323]

I was here to just see the video and for inner satisfaction...but this video just tengled my brain🙂..still watched though

[@CandycaneLane999]

Awesome explanation! It looks lovely👏👏

[@marathorne6821]

It's sensational! I totally love it. Thanks for the inspiration 🙏

[@ColorwaveCraftsCo]

The diagrams were very helpful!!

[@elizabethhatfield2115]

It looks really good! Thank you for the explanation of how you created this pattern. --Lyssa WA, USA

[@milydesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooPaYn-ffbBme9U

[@indiabilly]

So talented! It looks absolutely gorgeous on you xx

[@lynnekingham8754]

Amazing! It looks so lovely and I love your 'make' videos. Well done.

[@marisolreyes6502]

Dress looks awesome

[@1334neko]

I really love the bias cut waistband!

[@bloomfieldartsacademyatsac4033]

I enjoy watching your tutorials and learning from your sewing experiences and skills.

[@Rhaifha]

Beautiful work!

[@locutia7]

I love this dress!

[@yasmeenfranky6282]

Beautiful end work as well as the explanation......Thank you

[@teresalowe271]

Wow! This turned out sooo good! and your instructions are clear and so very helpful. Thank you!

[@woodenkat8971]

Oh, that is just lovely!

[@marthabenner6528]

I love the waistband. The whole thing is very cute.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Wow that’s lovely!

[@IAmCraftingAgain]

This is such a great tutorial.

[@anaisabelsantos4661]

I believe I'll come back to this video once or twice. I feel like making that skirt, not sure if with or without the bodice.

[@MorganeRainbird]

I found out I have a great fabric I would like to use to make at least a similar skirt!

[@StellaMariaGiulia]

Chef's kiss on the dress and the video! It was easy to follow, and now, I guess I have yet another project added to my sewing list 😆

[@cauldroncreations]

I love the tweaks you made to this project compaired to your last one. Especially love the x's created on the waistband by using the bias. Overall, what a great finished dress!

[@janeteholmes]

That’s very cute. I might sew one of these up.

[@annamaxflair]

beautiful job love

[@PeacefullSky90]

Love this!

[@amandacox321]

This so cute 😍

[@liav4102]

I’ve just put two different plaid projects into my queue and can use all the pattern matching thoughts tips tricks and wizardry I can get

[@irinakempf2576]

Hi! This is the first of your videos that I saw and it is really great. I love the dress, love the explanations and the review is so honest - it is great :) I already look forward to discovering your other projects 👍🏻😀

[@squirrephant5368]

I’m going to make my pockets like that from now on!

[@KarinaDoRego]

So.. not that this comment has to do with this video, in which I definitely appreciate since my girls would love to have one of these too. However, I would like to thank you so much for the video on how to draw an arc draft for making stays. This was great to translate into Tudor clothing as well!!

[@deannastevens1217]

EXCELLENT!!!!

[@charlottenorskau]

I was like: wait that looks like Clara! Glad to be right.

[@uldadantas5179]

Bom dia!!!"gostei do vídeo!!! Parabéns e obrigada.

[@gszcrafts]

Nice sharing 👍👍

[@Yachid]

I prefer the Lg'rSq'z Pattern; & love the Chair, & the Yellow against it

[@gomathysankar5666]

Please do some tutorial on how to make organza lotus print skirt.

[@manythingslefttobuild]

The diagrams were well done and helpful, some of the 4th wall narration seemed a bit out of place. Separate diagrams for the outer fabric vs lining might be a bit clearer. It turned out great, nice button choice.

[@nartapaco8872]

WOW

[@DAYBROK3]

On the pockets, I make mine all the way to the waistband so I don’t need to fuss with the tape thingy.

[@MariahPattie]

I recently switched to trying the tape. I still like it better, even if it is fiddly. It removes the extra layers and bulk that gets sewn up into the waistband otherwise. Very helpful for thicker fabrics.

[@IJUSTNEEDASTUPIDUSERNAME]

Just finished rewatching that doctor who episode! Clara’s style definitely informed (continues to inform tbh) how I dress these days, especially since I watched it first in high school where I could only wear a uniform. Thanks for the video, I loved the dress and would want to try it sometime although I am intimidated by the lining. I find it’s hard to adjust for fit with this method.

[@MariahPattie]

You don’t have to add a lining at all if you want. You could easily use facings instead.

[@IJUSTNEEDASTUPIDUSERNAME]

@@MariahPattie indeed!

[@TrixiaDK]

Cute 😊

[@cassaundraroskowske8272]

Could you share the pattern for the skirt your wearing too, I love that!

[@samanthaarten]

I have always had trouble joining up the outer to the lining in a bodice! You made it look so easy, but you went by it pretty quickly and I had trouble conceptualizing what you did. Is this the bagging method or the burrito technique, or something else entirely?

[@tulaybekture9575]

Harika ❤

[@RychaardRyder]

Great Video! Now this concepts actually got me thinking of what the legalities involved in making a video about how to make something yourself, that is already being sold somewhere else are? Also would teaching someone how to draft something from scratch/ adapt a base pattern to make something similar legal? I kinda already finished filming a video on how to draft a vintage dress pattern that a company is already selling a reproduction pdf i had no idea about!

[@linneawestberg6435]

crafting mojo 📈 * knits intensly *

[@shalec6704]

Are you wearing the Londoners by AD??? They’re so pretty and go great with your skirt!

[@joclark3702]

As for the waistband, you added ironon interfacing to this jumper but not the first one. That will affect the stretchability of the waist.

[@MariahPattie]

Good point

[@ferson8734]

Love it, when will the pattern be able on patron?

[@MariahPattie]

I'm hoping to get it back this Thursday.

[@lizreiman1208]

I have been searching and searching and SEARCHING for a pattern like this!! How big will the size grading be for the pattern? I would love this pattern, but I'm definitely not skilled enough to draft it myself. But I really like your videos!

[@saritshull3909]

what if you tack the pleats down so the pocket can't disturb them?

[@mandylavida]

Really cute. What yardage did you use?

[@MariahPattie]

I bought 4 to be safe. Have roughly 1.5 leftover.