Winter skills 4.7: climbing steep ice - tactics and placing ice screws

Expert tips for winter climbing. Climbing steep ice: tactics for movement and placing ice screws.
This is one of a series of instructional films produced exclusively for BMC TV in association with AMI (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors), Lowe Alpine and DMM.
WATCH: 32 winter skills films in our playlist: • #MakeWinterCount - lea...
#climbing #iceclimbing #mountaineering
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[@KevinSmith-tr4db]

Straight up had a laugh attack at: *fade out music* "why didn't I bring more screws" *fade out*

[@purplemonkeyelephant]

Technical advice half way up a mixed route when the conditions are dumping! Solid work BMC

[@epycadventures]

I'm thinking the same thing. Dude's getting worked in some serious conditions, and struggling to place his tool, all the while still instructing, meaning some poor asshole is holding a camera and hoping it doesn't freeze.

[@suspower]

His famous last quote "Now why didn't I bring more screws..." lol

[@Mrthirtyseven]

This is one of the best ice climbing videos on the internet. Great explanation with examples while in the real world. Awesome stuff BMC!

[@deannilvalli6579]

An excellent instructional video! Really well filmed, and how you got the sound so clear and wind-free, I do not know!

[@simpsonoutdoors9291]

What a great level of commitment to make a super instructional video in less than perfect Scottish conditions. I’m impressed. I did my ML with Richard about 17 years ago! I’m getting auld lol

[@MyGoogleYoutube]

So relaxed on lead. It's like he is in a classroom sipping on tea.

[@fancyhandle]

Never done ice climbing but saving this video and subscribing for future reference! Fantastic video taken in real-world conditions. Well done!

[@mattrotter1342]

This series is excellent. Thank you!

[@joshgibson267]

This is exactly what I'm looking for, thank you.

[@oliverasbach]

" If I had more ice screws" WTF :-D Great video - very good explaining, Thank you!! I´d piss my pants in these conditions, really

[@paulmorrey733]

Thanks Great series of videos

[@geoffswyka1143]

Love this video, thank you

[@markstewart9362]

End of video “why didn’t I bring more screw?” Hot damn that would suck

[@danielthomson80]

Probably, hopefully, possibly... Words that I used the other day when scratching around in powder snow looking for a placement!

[@apeiron1984]

Some wisdom here. Thank you 🙏🏻 sir for your help

[@Luke-kw8jm]

fantastic video

[@sgtagem]

Hits off huge chuck... yells after addressing the camera lol. Great video tho!

[@burtonlindquist6921]

Luuumpy buuuumpy ice here today... Ha!

[@SWISSPOWERJET]

GOOD JOB YOU ARE A NICE GUY THANKS

[@JB-rt4mx]

Great vidio of rock smashing turf climbing

[@tomgreene6579]

Great video and comment...sound stuff.

[@simoncurson717]

@teamBMC what tools are you using? They look very good

[@appak001]

grivel tech machine?k x

[@rossr8776]

Always remember to pull on yer tool..

[@isntit8107]

What if he loose the two hock? Should he collegate with wire?

[@stylehold]

wich is the mic that do you use ?

[@cgon4284]

I'm not even close to be a guide, but I would like to comment on the ice tools placement. Many times in the vide you place one axe pretty close to the other, specially right before you place the first screw. If that pops, you're gone... Anyways, not trying to criticise negatively the video, but discuss this aspect.

[@euerhenning5780]

Constructive criticism like yours is always good. So don't feel bad for it. It's important information.

[@zacharymoon4008]

is below the best thing to shout when you have ice falling? feels like the belayer coud mistake shouting "BELOW" for "BELAY" and accidentally take you off. overall great video though thanks for the awesome series:)

[@Alex-lz7yz]

Zachary Moon in climbing/mountaineering command calls, any belay command is prefaced with, or followed with “OFF” or “ON”, so “OFF BELAY” would signal the climber is tied in with a protection anchor, instead of just shouting belay. This would be replied to with “BELAY OFF” from the belayer. It eliminates the ambiguity issue you were getting at.

[@zacharymoon4008]

Alex I realize that but still seems like there are better ways to call it than saying below that have a much lower potential for confusion.

[@ripperkon]

I agree with you. And for me (as a German) ON and OFF sound kind of similar when screamed.

[@largeformatlandscape]

The only word expected in the UK is "SAFE" and "CLIMB" usually prefixed by the persons name to make sure other people don't get mixed up

[@telestix6606]

In North America we yell "ICE" and even then only for the big stuff. Notably if you were to drop a screw, biner, .... you would still yell "ICE" as it's the same response for the belayer, get out of the way (assuming you didn't set up your belay properly) .

[@WynJones-uq5nz]

What route was this filmed on please ? I’ve not seen it noted anywhere

[@1981stonemonkey]

6:41 'Rather making sure' in non-continental ice means putting two tools closer to each other, you say... wouldn't that put extra strain on ice that might not be as solid??

[@appak001]

yeah true but although placing your tools one higher than the other would be way more efficient it puts alot force on the higher tool. with his tools closer together there's more load sharing between his pick. i'd still want some separation and offset though!k x

[@iComment87]

What and where is this climb? It looks so fun!

[@GusShields1322]

iComment87 Ben Nevis , Tower Ridge I think .

[@chriswiles8617]

Excellent, but axes always take a few thwacks but feet first or second go.

[@telestix6606]

So couple of observations 1) at 5:30 when placing move your feet up so you drive the screw from your hip. It will go in more easily 2) I may be wrong but I thought current thinking was neutral to slight down angle. Not an up angle 3) close the tightener (the arm) this has been shown to cause problems (rope damage) if left open and you fall on it. Finally get steeper ice, you won't have to fight the snow so much and the climbing will be more enjoyable and kudos for not cancelling the how to video just because the weather was crap. I don't think I have seen another how to video with such bad weather.

[@andybaker8775]

He said he’d have preferred to have put it in by his hip because it’s easier... wtf.. did you watch the video?

[@telestix6606]

@@andybaker8775 haha that's funny yes but because of where I was watching it the volume was really low so I missed that part. My bad

[@kinderobi]

so its all about the sound

[@vincegordon6830]

😃👏👏👏

[@Shynaxo]

Damn! This terrain! It looks like the end of the world!

[@simonsteinberger2935]

Really nice watching, interesting terrain. But two rather poor things to mention: 4 min 22 s: Taking an ice screws into the mouth is a big no-no! It cannot have been very cold that day, otherwise your lips would have had a problem :-P 3 min 47 s: Hitting one tool right next to the other in unconsolidated ice is just as big a no-no. That's a good way to get both tools cracked out. If really necessary for balance, one could grab the first tool with both hands. But rather look for a different hook elsewhere.

[@largeformatlandscape]

In plastic ice where he's just broken a load off already I think would be OK... very different in brittle ice on a covex bulge I would imagine

[@rahkinrah1963]

Skiing powder/crud/groomers for many years in Colorado...I didn't like ice. That was for racers. Then I started ice climbing. Now - ICE IS NICE!

[@WannabeAlpinist]

Great instructional video. Thanks a lot! Feel free to critique my climbing techniques in my ice climbing videos on my channel. Everything helps!

[@rudimatt4218]

Looks like the skiing would be better.

[@elilivezey7884]

At the end i can see he only clipped one of his ropes, why is that?

[@jeroenvanzeeland7812]

Twin ropes / half ropes, meant to be threaded one by one. Used often in trad / iceclimbing to dampen falls and to keep from making a pendulum as well as reducing ropedrag... all sorts of reasons.

[@Kordzik83]

That's how you use half ropes, you only clip one per piece. Won't go into the details why (there's quite a lot to it) but suffice to say it is the most common rope system for multi-pitch ice/mixed climbing

[@foimassa]

Twin ropes are better suited for ice climbing and mountaineering because both ropes have to be clipped to the same piece of protection. this avoids a situation where a rope can be cut, you can still rely on the other. Twin ropes are so that you don't need to carry two full-weight single ropes and can make longer double-rope rappels. On wandering routes, especially in the UK and lots of trad lines, half ropes are more beneficial if pieces of protection are farther apart horizontally (to avoid rope drag). Half ropes are individually rated to take a fall, whereas twins need to be belayed together and taken the same force. Hope that makes sense.

[@thebommelbommel]

​@@foimassa did you think about the fact, that while both twin ropes could be cut with one object (e.g. falling rock or sharp edge) only one of the half ropes would get cut?

[@thebommelbommel]

@@jeroenvanzeeland7812 i think your post isn't correct, because twin ropes aren't qualified to clip only one rope to each safety device. I think you always have to clip both twin ropes into one device.