Wiring a 3-prong, 240V/50A Existing Range Outlet (removing a junction box)

[@PapasPixels]

Just found this. I'm in the same situation here. A drop in from '74 has died and the installers hard wired it to a box. I really appreciate your help here and the help of those who added notes to watch for in the comments. I am ever so grateful, thanks.

[@matronista]

Thank you for your kind comment. I see one of the last things he ever did was give you a ❤️. I lost him right before Christmas 2018. He was my husband of 34 years. He was my partner in crime on my channel. He would have been so proud of the view count on this video. He would probably tease me unmercifully. Lol. My best video was about the stupid Chucky Doll and it has 40,000 views. (Forgive me for that video. It was one of my 1st vids). He was in my vids and always edited them. He was my best friend.

[@PapasPixels]

Matronista Forever I'm so sorry you lost your husband. 😢 My wife and I have been together for over 35 years and it is a gut punch just thinking about losing her. I sincerely hope this world brings you gentle loving gifts. Meanwhile, I will be giving thanks for the hot meals we enjoy, and including a smile and a nod to a man who cared. Warmth.

[@sevenstone1091]

if you can still see this...I was in the exact situation and this video saved my day. Almost looked like the same stove. House was built in 1982. Thank you for posting this. Mine didn't even have a junction box lol just dangling wires.

[@jonathanescamilla3659]

Sameee

[@mizheidi]

I'm dealing with the same thing right now! Guys came to install, found out I was hard wired. I'm nervous to do anything electrical, but you make it look easy enough for a housewife!

[@theBarefoot]

+Heidi Sargent I'm blushing. Thank you. You can do it!

[@ucimyy4u]

Glad to find your video. I'm facing the exact same situation. House built in '78. Drop in stove is the original. New slide-in coming tomorrow. Pulled old stove out tonight to find it was hardwired directly into a junction box too. And, just like yours, the wire from the breaker panel to this junction box contains only three wires with one being a bare aluminum neutral. As TheNaturalust noted below the wire should be replaced. For whatever reason though, where we live it is common practice that your hotwater heater and your stove/oven breakers are mounted in a separate breaker box on the outside of your home. Since this is a fairly big multi-story house (the wires run up the walls, through the attic, then down inside the outside concrete block wall) there's literally no way I can replace the wire. All I can do is make my connections neat and tidy and hope for the best.

[@theBarefoot]

Pierre Cardone Good luck with your project.

[@emduplessis9996]

Thank You for explaining the practice and importance of setting the wires in the termination slots.I have looked at so many videos and not a one touched on this let alone demonstrated it. Thank you again! I really appreciate your video.🙂

[@miguelalmanza1664]

Same situation wish I watched your video way back!

[@olblu8746]

Thanks for explaining which wire went where, and where they came from the prong. I was confused about where the thin white wire from the stove went, now with this vid. l now know it's called neutral and it goes hooked up with the ground wire hook-up. God bless.

[@815scorpius7]

I'm doing exactly the same thing you did. Replacing a drop in with a slide in. Same wiring, box, receptacle etc... I hope your range fit in the hole. I had to do a lot of cutting, it was a nightmare

[@benjamincox9944]

Insane electrician is correct .. He just snaked the supply cable out through a hole in the drywall and ran it to a free-floating junction box lying on the floor under the range PROPER (required by Code, unless you live somewhere with no electrical code) is to terminate ALL house wiring (whether running under floors, through walls, at an electrical box MOUNTED the studs, either recessed in the wall or surface-mounted on the drywall (but also screwed to studs), so that there is no exposed house wire between the wall (or floor or ceiling) and the terminal (junction box, switch or outlet) DANGER DANGER !! :(

[@adt7095]

This was very helpful and thanks so much. I have new wiring I have to install which is 8 gauge for 50 amp in my trailer for my new stove and I had to buy that same plug in so I am very thankful for you making this video sir.

[@richmiller8310]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!! this was EXACTLY my situation! i don't normally mess with 220 wiring, but with your video, it got me thru with flying colors!!

[@bigrexdave]

Ty so much for the video. That is exactly what I had. I moved the wire to a new position in the kitchen and couldn't figure out what happened to the white wire

[@steveh1632]

Thanks for the video!!! Had the exact same wiring problem with my stove and your video was nearly a step-by-step guide. Thanks again for the video ... really saved my backside.

[@mdrees1978]

And you need to make sure the plug that you're using is rated for aluminum wire.

[@jesussavesthelost17]

Curious I had same wiring but coming in to the receptacle I had a ground wire...from the breaker box...it was red black white and copper groumd..wasn't for sure where to hook that wire...in receptacle diagram doesn't mention it

[@garyberger2664]

Regarding that bare ground, can you put some heat shrink on it? Leaving it bare makes me uncomfortable. Also, did you mount the receptacle on the wall? Did you pull the excess cable back through the wall.

[@MoMo-nh3ru]

Great video Tx !!. Have a similar junction box under my electric cooktop .Want to put new gas cooktop ,will need three prong electric socket but I guess with less power just for igniters to function . Any advice how to ?

[@omark2423]

I'm in the process of doing this too. Only problem I have the electrician left 6 8 inches of wire coming through the floor. So I have leave the panel in place with the outlet secure to the floor. Now the stove will be 4 inches higher than the counter top

[@weimer2011]

Solid black and red wire will carry 120VAC per leg into 50A breaker inside panel. White/neutral wire will carry 120VAC to power lights, clock ECT... No ground from panel-outlet and outlet-range cord?

[@KevinCoop1]

Shaun Weimer Prior to NEC 1989, stove branch circuits were allowed to be installed with two hots and neutral/ground combined. It works, but violates the new rules of total separation of neutral and ground. Electric dryers were connected this way as well. This is why there are two different plug types with three and four prongs. When the house was built makes the difference.

[@matronista]

@@KevinCoop1 Thank you for replying to this commenter. He would be thrilled people are still watching. I lost him almost two years ago to an horrendous three month battle with Stomach Cancer.

[@KevinCoop1]

Matronista Forever I am very sorry for your loss! He sounds pretty young in the video. I too almost lost a battle at about be same time. I had heart attack and during surgery, my heart stopped. Very weird experience. Respectfully, Kevin

[@everydaywithaj8028]

Good video my friend. Where do you live cause I have the same linoleum in my kitchen and I'm in NC.

[@dabneyoffermein595]

Hello. So I'm replacing my really old oven 1995 ish with an old oven 2007 ish. my house was first occupied in 1996 so it was built the year before the 4-wire mandate. So I'm grandfathered in. The replacement oven has both 3 and 4 wire instructions in it. So naturally I have to do 3-wire installation. My question is, can i tap into the junction box and using 12/2 Romex, wire up to the replacement microwave, which needs a standard 15 amp service 120v ? I tested the wiring voltage on all 3 wires and it goes as such. Touching black & Red i get 249v, touching white and red I get 124.5v and touching white and black I get 124.5v. The original stove/microwave unit were both powered by this 3-wire 40amp circuit where the microwave is 120v and oven 240v/120v. It was one big combo unit into this custom home. I realize that new codes call for 4-wire, but my replacement oven supports 3-wire so I'm going to forge ahead in that manner. But i would hate to have to run a new circuit to my replacement microwave. It takes a standard grounded plug. I'm guessing my 3-wire is Hot, Hot, Neutral, which means there really isn't a grounding wire for the Microwave. Is there any other way I could ground that Microwave? Like should I run a wire from the ground of the outlet outside to a grounded post stuck into the ground or something. Any suggestions?

[@igfoobar]

DANGER aluminum wire! You need to do two things: 1. Make sure the receptacle is marked "CU-AL" which indicates that it can handle copper or aluminum wire. 2. You *must* coat the conductors in antioxidant paste before inserting them into the terminals.

[@panama-sx2oh]

very true im a electrician

[@thomasmarable6818]

No de- ox required for aluminum alloy cable which came out in late 70

[@aasmith78]

Most new alloys don’t need de-ox but we do it to make the uninformed happy. I do however have issue with that tiny screwdriver. No way those things are torqued enough.

[@outoworkdreamer]

I've been able to learn some basic home wiring from my son, who is an electrician. One thing that gave me alot of confidence was learning how to use a mulitmeter. My son said that the 'stick' type hot indicators can get you killed. Just sayin. But thanks for the video.

[@gaillohre3425]

hoping to get a reply! Just had a new range installed, but i also had wires connected, not a box which an electrician redid to a 3 prong outlet. But the range will not sit close enough to the wall, so is there an outlet that is more recessed into the wall? secondly, the range seems to vibrate, I can feel it on the handle and controls. Lastly, having someone comeback to look at range as only the burners work. oven doesn’t work, nor oven light or the clock on the control panel. Breaker was reset, no change.

[@matronista]

He would be thrilled people are still watching. I lost him almost two years ago to an horrendous three month battle with Stomach Cancer.

[@JB-qd5hq]

When in the junction box, was the stove ground wire connected to a ground screw to the metal junction box? It didnt look like it. Wondering because I have a similar hookup.

[@matronista]

He would be thrilled people are still watching. I lost him almost two years ago to an horrendous three month battle with Stomach Cancer. He would have answered you pronto.

[@brandondarnell6919]

@@matronista I just watched this video in preparation for my new range (changing out an old cooktop). It's a GREAT video, I am so sorry for your loss, and I hope that knowing the someone just heard his voice and personality for the first time brings you a little happiness today. Seems like a great guy and cancer is just so unfair, to say the least. Again, many thanks and lots of love.

[@keysersoze3777]

If that gray wire is #6 Aluminum, it is only for 40A not 50A. You also need an neutral for the 120V circuits in the range.

[@glassman3333]

I’m curious. Since you had the ground wire, I’m assuming the breaker box was setup correctly to accommodate, so why not just install a 4 prong outlet instead?

[@glassman3333]

@@ElementFreedive I can’t tell if you’re joking or not, as he obviously could have returned that plug and purchased the correct one - since he had all 4 wires already.

[@blizzster]

Hi,, I am currently facing this issue. I purchased the exact range outlet. My question is mainly the 2 hot wires. Which one goes left and which one goes right??? From the video I can see from one red the other is black but cant tell which is which once installed. Will things go terribly wrong if the 2 hot wire installed opposite sides?Thanks..

[@KevinCoop1]

Mochi & Maki The two connected to the breaker(hots) are exactly the same and can go to either side safely.

[@Nick-bh1fy]

Mochi & Maki the black and red wires are interchangeable

[@matronista]

@@Nick-bh1fy He would be thrilled people are still watching. I lost him almost two years ago to an horrendous three month battle with Stomach Cancer.

[@MrQuasarious]

Wanted to drop a line and say thank you for this Video to remind me how to do this again.. So Thank you.

[@theBarefoot]

You're very welcome. Thanks for dropping by and leaving this comment. Have a great new year!

[@frankegonzalez6549]

Thank you, appreciate it very much Sr. God bless you.

[@matronista]

Thank you. I lost him to Stomach Cancer almost two years ago.

[@frankegonzalez6549]

@@matronista I am very sorry to hear that, stay strong one day we will reunited again, Thanks God. May The LORD God bless you.

[@amituofo.]

Since there is a long wire coming out of the wall already do a direct wiring to the range and save the receptacle and the extension core. Range manual provides simple instruction.

[@matronista]

He would be thrilled people are still watching. I lost him almost two years ago to an horrendous three month battle with Stomach Cancer.

[@angelaphillips7970]

@@matronista I’m so sorry for your loss. I lost my husband in February. Which is why I’m watching this this. So, thank you very kindly.

[@jdyoungman6380]

what if you have 2 black wires and 1 red wire coming from the wall?

[@matronista]

He would be thrilled people are still watching. I lost him almost two years ago to an horrendous three month battle with Stomach Cancer.

[@colinfitzroyale3032]

What if you have 4 wires from the wall? A black, a black with a white stripe, a black with a red stripe and a bare braided one. The oven is a 1956 GE. Prior owner used it up until Dec 2015. The cord from the oven is newer with a 3 pronged plug.

[@theBarefoot]

+Colin Fitzroyale: If I understand, you have a newer house with the 4-wire code and an older range? If so, you should wire the outlet per the normal 4-wire code and change the ranges cord to a 4-prong. There are some good videos (not mine) on how to wire a new 4-prong cord to an older 3-wire range that will help.

[@DooMMasteR]

4 Wire will be HOT-HOT-NEUTRAL-GROUND and requires a NEMA 14-50 socket now (which has grounding included). I am a bit worried about @theBarefoot s setup, because there is no grounding wire visible (NEMA 10-50 does NOT carry ground, it has to be strapped to the appliances casing separately.

[@daedaetinez6406]

Yes a great video on how to fo this I’m getting ready to get my stove done and this is so helpful!! THANK YOU FOR YHIS VIDEO!!!

[@ArnitaBristol]

Thank you for your time. Help me out alot.

[@theBarefoot]

+Arnita Bristol You're welcome. I'm sorry I rambled so much.

[@kevinbaker2470]

@thebarefoot Lol at your dollar store toolbox 😂😂, I have a few, one I keep my electrical solder stuff, and the other is plastic automotive rivets? Toolbox is shit as far as durability/waterproof.. but for a dollar, you can't complain

[@anthonytitian8386]

I’m new at this which side is white and red and black I know black is ground

[@matronista]

He would be thrilled people are still watching. I lost him almost two years ago to an horrendous three month battle with Stomach Cancer.

[@TheNaturalust]

Dude you have a major problem there. The supply wire is using bare aluminum wire as the neutral conductor, this will carry current if the range has any 120 lighting or controls on it. Bare neutral wires are not permitted. You need to replace the gray cord with a 3 conductor plus ground cord for a safe electrical system. Use the white conductor in your new cord as a neutral to your receptacle, not the bare wires.

[@KevinCoop1]

TheNaturalust Prior to NEC 1989, stove branch circuits were allowed to be installed with two hots and neutral/ground combined. It works, but violates the new rules of total separation of neutral and ground. Electric dryers were connected this way as well. This is why there are two different plug types with three and four prongs. When the house was built makes the difference.

[@igfoobar]

@@KevinCoop1 It could be argued that re-terminating the end, by replacing the junction box with a receptacle, constitutes enough of a change that the entire branch circuit must be brought up to code. Realistically, no one is going to complain. If it were my house, though, the three wire circuit plus the aluminum wire would be enough to motivate me to replace the entire run.

[@KevinCoop1]

IGnatius T Foobar Yes, you are correct. Changing anything from what it was to something different is not replacement. Personally, I would upgrade the whole thing, because I do not like aluminum from back in the 80's or 90's because it is softer aluminum than used for feeders today. Even though the new devices are rated cu/al.

[@randyrougeau6787]

The mad electrician,, Lolol!!!!🤣🤣 thanks for the vid man the good refresher I needed to see…… it’s good you can work with gloves, I never could train myself to use them While working with small stuff like that

[@sahmeebuilt]

I say yea do it.. just keep turning on the breaker when it trips.. have 911 on speed dial, and start looking for another home, so when the house burns down "for unknown reasons" you have somewhere to live .. oh and don't forget to delete the question you put on facebook because the private investigator will have a reason why to void your homeowner insurance..

[@loriscott2477]

Hi, the Barefoot. I could use some help please. Here it goes, but I may get long winded doing my best to fully explain. Like yourself, I'm replacing my 30 yr old kenmore drop in range with a new full size/slide in kenmore range. My new range instructions shows that it accepts 3 or 4 connection wiring. I've pull the old drop-in out and removed the kick panel. My old range was hardwired like yours using a junction box. My junction box has 4 wires running out of it that went to the old range; red, black ( 2 live) white (neutral ?) & a bare copper wire, (ground I suppose?). When you first showed your junction box opened in your vid it looked like you too had a copper, a white, and the aluminum bundle of wire all tied together running inside or to your old junction box along with two live wires red & black. But, then you edited your video. In the final section of your vid you are only showing three wires total to hook up to your 3 wire 240v 50 amp outlet. They are the two live, red & black, and the aluminum serving as neutral or ground. What happened to your white and copper wire that was running from your wall to inside your old junction box all bundled together with the aluminum wire?? Looks like you went from having 5 wires in the box to just three left connecting to your new installed outlet. Did you just cap them off? Is that code or safe? To further explain my set-up; from my sheet rock wall or control panel running to the inside of my old juction box are 5 wires total. Like what I thought yours looked like at the start of your video with your old juction box opened up. Inside my box are the 2 matching live wires, red & black. Also, tied together is the matching white , a non insulated /bare copper, but also combined with these two is the bundled thick aluminum wire like yours shown on the video. Since this was a 1985 drop in range I presume it was identical to a 3 wire or prong set-up of what was used back prior to year 2000. However, I removed my drop in range several months ago and started on other projects that became more pressing. I wish I had made note of where my copper wire had been attached at the back of my drop in at the terminal block. I'm thinking maybe the copper wire was attached to the grounding strap being that it was a 3 wire hook up. Meaning, at the terminal block on my old stove the red & black wires(live) were attached to the right and left side, the white (neutral) in the middle and the bare copper used as a ground wire connected at the grounding strap, not at the green screw like a 4 wire connection? Would I be right in my presumption? I understand by code that it is okay to use a 240v 50 amp outlet (3 wire connection) if it is existing only. Otherwise by code you are to use a 4 wire connection. Well, I'd like to go ahead and install the three wire connection because my house is on a slab and it would not be easy access to get a new 4th wire run from my panel box to behind my wall going to a new 4th wire connection 50 amp outlet. Thus, why I'm not calling my electrician just yet. Can you help me? What did you do with the white and bare copper wire that I believe I'm seeing in your opened junction box at the start of your video? I need to know if my eyes are playing tricks on me. I'd like to go ahead and finish my install. You had the exact or close to the same project as myself. Hope to hear from you. You may email me if your wish. I'm at [e-mail]. Or, message me here. Or last, use your google account if your have one. Thanks in advance. Sorry this was so long.

[@theBarefoot]

+Lori Scott Thanks for the question. The white and copper wires you saw in the beginning were on the range side of the junction box. They were tied together into the ground. If you pause the video at 2:15, the left side of the screen is the range side of the box. The right side of the screen is coming from the wall. There are only 3 wires coming from the wall, 2 black and the aluminum ground. On a 3-prong plug, you'll have the two blacks to your hot leads and the ground to the center prong. I can't advise you on your local codes, but normally "changes" don't include things done outside the walls like changing a plug or outlet. Codes normally only come into play when making significant changes like adding a circuit, running new Romex, etc. Since yours is an existing 3-wire circuit, MY INTERPRETATION (note: this isn't legal advice) is that you're fine putting in a 3-prong outlet. Good luck with your project.

[@theBarefoot]

+Lori Scott I've added some annotations to the video to clarify what's what. Thanks!

[@loriscott2477]

+theBarefoot. Thanks so much. I was incorrect in my visual of the incoming wires from the wall going to the old junction box. You've made me realize that I deceived myself. Mine has the exact set-up as yours in the video. Coming from the wall are two black live wires and one aluminum bundle wire for the neutral/ground. So, I'll pick up a 3 wire 240v 50 amp outlet tomorrow along with a 3 connection wall plug. One last short question. When wiring up the three wire plug/cable going to the new slide in/full size range, I know red and black are live going to the right & left, the white is neutral going to the center but where do I put the bare copper wire? Do I attach it to the grounding strap instead of the green ground screw as a 3 wire connection is described in the operation manual? Thanks so much for your quick reply and help!

[@theBarefoot]

+L AS Follow the manual that comes with your range for wiring. You don't want to void your warranty.

[@annete968]

can I use this outlet for 3 prong dryer?

[@raymondhernandez5862]

That electrical tech was mad he use service entry cable for a range..smh

[@ericconley8156]

Thank you!!! Perfect!!

[@Tom-qx5nl]

So much fail. Hope your fire insurance is paid up.

[@baims8367]

Power cord long enough.? 3 ft plus the 3 foot stove cord. Makes for da,n long stove power cords. Best friend f luck with new stove sadly today's appliances be lucky if work a yr before something stops working. Def not built like like they used to be. Same goes for most anything these days I guess. Hope you get 5 yrs out of new one doubt 20. 1500$ stoves and cooktops should work for 20 yrs that's for sure. Best of luck

[@23yovet]

aluminum......ew