Will This 3406B Cat Run Again??

Let's find out if I can figure out how to make the ole FLC Freightliner run again. Look for more Freightliner content to come!! Thanks for watching everyone!!
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[@johngoldsmith6629]

Word of advice. When you take the flyweight carrier off, behind it is a brg and two races. They wear and need to be replaced, if worn. The flyweight carrier you put on is the new style that has blocks to prevent flyweights from coming to far out in case of a failure. The bolts are a 9Y7037 if I recall that has lock tight on them. The item with the two allen screws is your torque spring and you have to keep it with your engine. It has a arm sticking out that touches the red screw on the inside. It is used for adjustment purposes and to see if you fuel setting is correct and your set point. The flyweights has a update which you can put larger ones on. The race against the flyweights, best to use one off a 8PN engine. It has a larger OD and helps keep the weights from coming out. The small race, have seen them fail several times. You have a seal in your governor guide and a snap ring. If you replace the seal be careful not to hit the snap ring. Also you have to set the governor guide depth with a mic from the face of the hsg to the tip of the guide. On the FRC lever, I put two races off a PEEC VTU and put one on each side. Prevents the arm from dragging on the FRC lever. The shut off has a updated gasket, 6I2002 part number. To find out what pump you have, get the number off the top and the part number off the front of the camshaft. It then can be looked up to see what you have. Example a 7C6650 on top of the pump was used in a lot of 425 HP engines. However the main part of the pump can be used on a wide range of engines. The governor spring, torque spring and FRC are usually different base on HP, RPM and emissions year. I like to replace the brg on the tach shaft as it can fail and come apart over time. And put new seals on shut off shaft, tach shaft and throttle shaft. The older B bodels used a over fueling spring and Cat states you can take them out. This pump did not have one. The 4N9019 dowel in the flyweight carrier that holds the tach shaft wears and I replace the also. The dash pot screw on the rear can work loose with worn seal, I replace them and you set the dash pot engine off. Turn in util it bottoms out one and a half turn min, two turns max. I split the two on how I set them. Maybe you won't have to touch it again for awhile but if so,these are problems I see.

[@LovelessRanch]

Can I send you my pump and have you rebuild it please?

[@johngoldsmith6629]

@@LovelessRanch What is wrong with your pump? What is your full engine serial number?

[@LovelessRanch]

I believe it to be the main culprit of a fairly big oil leak. I assume it just needs gaskets but at the point I pull it off i my as well rebuild/update it. I have the ability, just not the time. It’s hard to find the old school guys with all the cool knowledge on the B model cats…. But You sound like one! I’m going to have to call the dealer and have them run the vin because I can’t locate a serial plate anywhere on the block. Must of them that I know of are located just back from the turbo.

[@johngoldsmith6629]

@@LovelessRanch Yes it is located around number five cylinder. If the oil leak is up front, more than likely it's your accessory drive gasket. Bad design, you have to pull the front off. Since you are that far into it, you might as well pull the inner front plate. DO NOT PULL THE GEAR OFF THE CAMSHAFT. Best to pull the cam, or be careful. You can take the fuel pump off and slide the cam out. Remove the cover on the side and watch your lifters and get to the edge. If you go to far the lifters will come off the lobes and you will have to pull the valve covers off and fix that screw up. The other leak is on the back side of the pump. Has about four allen plugs with o-rings. They work loose and leak. Cat did updates on the seal's. So you cannot order parts out of the book on some engines. The updates are not listed. That is why I need to know your serial number. Last major leak is the tach drive shaft seal. Usually the bearing fails and wipes the tach drive seal out. So where is the leak, front, middle or rear?

[@LovelessRanch]

@@johngoldsmith6629 definitely NOT up front. Middle to rear, I guess I’ll have to pinpoint better. My first hunch says middle and the oil on the rear of the pump is just running back…. Or it’s leaking in 2 spots. It’s a 92 year with almost a million miles so it has more than 1 oil leak, but the one in the pump area is bad bad. So are those possibly doable jobs with the pump on the engine or I have to pull the pump?

[@glenvanbavel8710]

Awesome job fixing the pump. .not to many people have the skills to take it apart and put it back together. .

[@shanesooth6267]

Keep um coming bud 👍👍👍

[@brianherron5400]

Nice catch 👌

[@alfredobeltran14]

Master show

[@devonrichardson3995]

I have a 3406c pump can you rebuild them an how much does it cost I think the barrel an plunger needs to be replace

[@j.c.smithprojects]

ada boy! i knew you could do it. i agree. i think the bolt came out of the flywheel plate. the governor failed and may have let it over rev. you cant over rev if the governor is working properly.

[@johngoldsmith6629]

Go down a hill with the clutch depressed and when it picks up speed let go of the clutch. You will float the valves and have a Scatterpillar. Seen several of them, governor can't handle that many RPM's all at once.

[@gregbrown4962]

Is that cut off for this truck the one you got from JC? I liked this informative video on Cat pumps.

[@j_moffitt]

Sure is!!

[@kevinsedo6869]

If you over reved the engine it was because the governor failed or was incorrectly adjusted not the other way around ,now that you've replaced the broken pieces it needs to be checked and adjusted

[@johngoldsmith6629]

On a over speed, front cover comes off and all bolts on the gear train are replaced. Lifters are removed and inspected. You can't see the piston's, but any valve that contacts the piston, that lifter gets replaced. Had a turbo failure years ago, engine hit 3500 plus rpm's. Bent the push rods, loosen the bolts up in the gear train, slung the clutch apart and twisted the drive shaft.

[@alfredobeltran14]

You think I can replace the plungers whit the pump on the engine

[@j_moffitt]

I do not know.

[@money-pit9956]

are you still offering airride looking to do my 2010 ram 3500 duallyfront and rear

[@j_moffitt]

I can provide you with parts to help in the build

[@money-pit9956]

@@j_moffitt have you figured out a way to do the front looks close to the 2nd gen but would need a bolt on lower as well

[@j_moffitt]

I myself do not have any “kit” for the front or rear for that matter, I have not taken the time to put anything like that together

[@money-pit9956]

would you be able to make one I like the air ride videos and how yours are set up

[@j_moffitt]

Right now I do not have the time to figure out an “exact fit” kit. If you can give me some sort of drawing or sketch of what you need or want, I can cut out whatever parts you need for that.

[@franciscojaviersantos6225]

El peimero en comentar chingon para todo

[@wazza33racer]

yee have little faith.........their are 80 year cat dozers still running.

[@Casey28027]

Two minutes of useless explanation. Just get straight to the point. Who cares where you got the pump.

[@j_moffitt]

Says the one who writes a useless comment…