I don’t know what Dewalt was thinking with this…

👋 Do you own a track saw? I can help you store, protect, & maximize your setup 👉 wittworks.shop
💵 Get 20% off my products here: t.ly/T-4p
🚨 Are you interested in the new Dewalt-compatible TSO Rail Square? t.ly/xHuR
🤝 Join the cool kid's club here: / wittworks
I paid full price for all the track saws and this video was not sponsored.
🧰 LINKS (affiliate) 🧰
TSO GUIDE RAIL SQUARES
GRS-16 for Makita/Festool/Milwaukee/Powertec/Triton:
GRS-16 for Kreg: t.ly/-7c5
GRS-16 for Dewalt: t.ly/xHuR
TSO Parallel Guides:
🌟 3D printed holders for your TSO loot: wittworks.shop...
TRACK SAWS
Dewalt Track Saw Kit: amzn.to/45GadYi
Milwaukee Track Saw Kit with Guide Rail: thetoolnut.sjv...
Festool TSC 55 KEB: amzn.to/3WFuMQO
Makita 40v Track Saw: amzn.to/3IO5xGg
Makita 40v Track Saw: thetoolnut.sjv...
Makita 36v Track Saw: amzn.to/45BcmEO
Makita Corded Track Saw: amzn.to/45xviV3
TRACK SAW ACCESSORIES
Centec 20' Hose (fits Festool, Makita, Milwaukee, Dewalt saws): amzn.to/3BFeLSg
If you buy this hose 👆 I designed these hose clamps for it specifically: t.ly/l1Df
Festool CT Midi (its worth the money): amzn.to/3bAdfpT
CMT ITK Tracksaw blades: lddy.no/1239n
Use the code CMT10 to get 10% off
Bora Centipede Table: amzn.to/3PXg7fJ
Bora Centipede Base: amzn.to/3bvOEmg
Powertec Ratchet Clamp: amzn.to/2TadnCZ
Bessey Ratchet Clamp: amzn.to/3bPnH9W
🙏 Thank you to the top-tier Patreons: Dave Meyer, Shane Cleavelin, Tim Epperson, Michael Downs, John Shiesser, Louis Brooks, John Lee Clair, Cameron Bryant, Linda Mizak, Aaron Geller, Matt Outlaw from @731Woodworks Wayne Miller, Malcom McCutcheon, Matthew Goode, James Engelhardt, Troy Hall, Liam P Burke, Corey Davoll, Steve Thompson, Kevin Boatswain, Dan Holley, Davin Ohms, Devin Perkins, William Taylor, Klay Jones, Jacob Boehme, Gulzeb Niazi, Mike Masterman, Ashley Woodward, Nathaniel Allard, Kristof Vannotten, Tony Tillman, Michael Jones, Thomas Sasala, Tracy Bachman, Kevin Jones, Jason Hagen, Braden Boex, Vincent Chov, Stephen L Birge
🤝 Join the cool kid's club here: / wittworks
DISCLAIMERS:
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.

[@sheahsu7094]

Thank you for this video. I’ve had this saw for two years now and you’ve nailed almost every annoying thing with it. Regarding your segment about the off cut being cleaner than the cut part, I scratched my head over this for the whole 2 years as well. What I ended up finding was the plane of the blade is not parallel to the saws base groove that straddles the track. Even with adjusting the mating screws to try to compensate, the saw blade is still 1/32 off parallel, this results in the blade skewing inwards at the tail end of the cut (back), leaving saw marks.

[@dustyroads834]

Do you feel as though this was done intentionally for less blade drag ? Or just an engineering flaw Thanks.

[@mcgeorgerl]

The difference in surface finish between the two sides of the kerf remind me of the same issue with table saws with the blade out of alignment with the miter slot(s). For this, alignment requires a fixture with a dial indicator or establishing a fixed point and feeler gauges. Fixtures for table saws are available from several accessory manufactures and the feeler gage method is outlined in some OEM manuals. So, it could be that the "marrying" of the saw-to-track allows for the blade to be out-of-parallel to the track since the two-point adjustment actually permits a less-than-perfect set-up.

[@calandrilnailo9360]

@@dustyroads834 Wouldn't this CAUSE more drag?

[@gtd6288]

Sounds like grounds for a recall/replacement. That's ridiculous.

[@weekendwarrior3420]

_absolutely_ ridiculous and unacceptable. Together with the bent guard, looks like a lemon that someone was kicking around... Or QC fault. Just return it and try a new one, give them another chance. @@gtd6288

[@danielaggeler9263]

I learned more about track-saws watching this video than I knew. Thank you, this taught me more about what to look for and check before I buy any track-saw. It is also a quick primer on track-saws for the un-schooled. This is a fine video.

[@Grillinandgluin]

Dewalt came out with their TrackSaw around 13yrs or so ago. Festool was the only brand at that time with one. So I think some of the cons are due to dewalt trying to avoid patent issues. The aftermarket brands never jumped on the bandwagon until recently when more brands began making TrackSaws. I bought mine around 2013 and love it. Have had zero issues. Looking forward to the tso square

[@joshuawiedenbeck6944]

Festool had a ton of patents on that thing. That's why so many brands came out with track saws around the same time. The patents started to expire.

[@FlorinArjocu]

As long as the other makers managed to do a great job, it is a problem with Dewalt. See how many people love Bosch ones, Makita or Milwakee.

[@cuebj]

I may be mistaken, but I seem to remember an Elu track circularcsaw that plunged way back about 1991. Nearly bought but went into IT away from kitchen scratch building

[@spycedezynuk]

Mafelle had a track saw at that time not just Festool

[@dkden1]

I agree plus I have lots of dewalt tools and dewalt batteries and did not want to change. I do not have a problem with the riving knife.

[@randallthomas5207]

The pantographic plunge is so the riving knife has a kerf to goo into when you plunge cut a kerf mid board. It has been about ten years since I adjusted the plunge depth on my Dewalt, but I don’t remember it as being difficult, or hard to figure out.

[@twohands475]

Ive had this saw for 4 years now. I adjusted the base to the blade as soon as i got it and have had perfect cuts from the get-go. Totally agree on blade change 'contraption' in fact i broke mine on the 1st blade i changed and now just hold the blade when chaging it out. PITA. Doubled sided track means you arent changing rubbers out as often and better in limited space. Riving knife stays in box as i typically use thinner blades.

[@karlackermann2239]

The DeWalt saw is compatible with the festool & Makita tracks, so you could always get one of them to adopt the TSO system. Now with this new TSO adapter youve got access to DeWalts substantially cheaper tracks.

[@rupertvarley2771]

I use my De Walt cordless saw on Festool track no problem. I feel that I've just wasted 18 minutes of my life listening to this guy enjoying to the sound of his own voice. Couldn't be bothered to finish the vid. Nothing he said was of any value to me (pro carpenter/joiner).

[@kurtandrews7450]

I like that TSO is supporting DeWalt's weirdness, because the tracks are cheaper, but for the application of using the parallel guides, don't you need two squares to use them with DeWalt?

[@karlackermann2239]

@@kurtandrews7450 If the square truly is square, then you just need one parallel guide

[@kurtandrews7450]

@@karlackermann2239 my parallel guide arrived last night. I'll give it a try with one and see how it goes.

[@wwh2694]

I own the 60v DEWALT track saw using the Festool track. I was great no problem with it. Cutting with it was dead on accurate. I even use the new Festool FS-WA angle stop it work great!

[@johnfowler4436]

"The fatal flaw and why I don't recommend it is because you can't use an aftermarket accessory... oh wait, I have one here in a box that apparently works great."

[@thomasdoherty6876]

My thoughts exactly, all these "dealbreakers" for an advert at the end, a "really well thought out money maker for him" 🤣

[@BlownF150]

I picked up the corded version a few years ago and it has been flawless. Has a different blade than the 60V model, never had a problem with the finish of the cuts even in 2" hardwood.

[@TM-jf2zd]

I got the dewalt corded before there were other options (I’m a Milwaukee guy). I read the manual and the quirks never bothered me. I get butter smooth cuts on both pieces. Check the alignment of the base on the track, you blade is attacking the wood at a small angle outwards making the leading edge of the blade cutting the off cut (to the right) and the trailing edge on the up cut is scarring the wood under the guide, if that makes sense. The alignment is tricky but once you dial it in you’re good. Thanks for the vis and glad they have accessories for my saw now!

[@dazquez]

The DeWalt track has 2 sides because Europeans have a circular saw that has the shoe base of a track saw (DCS 576). One side of the track is for 90 degree cuts and the other side is for 45 degree cuts because the circular saw alters the splinter guard based on the angle

[@onionjello]

I bought the corded model (DWS520CK) in 2018 for $629.99 with two tracks (59” & 102”). I remodel houses and this saw has made a lot of cutting tasks much easier. The reversible track comes in handy in situations when work space small which is often. The saw is quite powerful, light weight, easy to use. I particularly like the saw for cutting new doors to fit into existing door frames, trim work, flooring, etc. I do wish that the accessories were available for this saw but im very happy with it nonetheless.

[@dilldowschwagginz2674]

I also do remodels and new build and find myself cutting alot of doors to fit. I almost never use my Makita track saw. Instead I just use a really good Skilsaw with a precisely secured straight edge. Works like a charm if done correctly. The key is to never, ever use the saw you want to be precise with for anything other than that. You'll tweak the deck/blade alignment if you do

[@smartassmart]

@@dilldowschwagginz2674that’s the way i used to do it, but the tracksaw does it so much faster, easier and cleaner… not sure why you wouldn’t use the better tool for the job if you already have it.

[@kevinmach730]

@@dilldowschwagginz2674 Not to be rude, but any first year woodworker knows you can clamp down a straight edge for rip cuts. By the time anyone has gotten to the point where they want to spend $600 on a track saw, they obviously don't want to do that any more. Or want something even more accurate for things trimming doors for existing frames.

[@davidhull2060]

The double hinge is to keep your hand in the same orientation to the saw....the same angle as a hand saw. It's weird at first, but I like now I'm used to it

[@Steensen1981]

I have the track saw, and purchased it because of the parallel plunge (double hinge you call it), due to it being more ergonomic for your wrist, and works better when doing a two-handed operation of the saw. The riving knife on mine was straight from the box, no problems there. I cut a 8/4 thick white oak 3.8m (12.5') with a semi dull blade, and absolutely zero rough marks on either my off cut nor my main piece. So blade-saw-track parallelism adjustment is defenately a part of your challange. Biggest downside I have with it, is the rubber on the track is not having enough friction, so the track skids arround.

[@hansangb]

Very thorough and fair review. I *HATE* how you have to go through gyrations to change the blade. But allow me to rebut. I like that you can screw down the track fit screws. Gives me a piece of mind. Benchdog makes a native square rail but you *do* have to take the rubber off where the square locks in. So I just bought the Festool track (works fine with DeWalt) because it has the most number of accessories. In remodel scenario, there are times when not having to rotate the track in limited space can come in handy. But I agree that it's not worth the "lack of accessories" price. I'm glad TSO is making the parallel guides though. Dust extraction is great - especially with your hole cover-thingy. The vacuum port does fit with many hoses and I'm happy they added the DeWalt twist lock hose compatibility. And finally, I never noticed the depth of cut because I always add a tiny bit more (don't care that it cuts into the insulation foam board. But then again, maybe that's why I started doing that! :)

[@wittworks]

Well said.

[@joabryan5814]

I’ve had my a DeWalt corded track saw for ten years. It has served me well and given the choices at the time were either a $600 DeWalt or a $1000 Festool, I regret nothing. I mostly use it to break down plywood. I over cut the pieces a little and then take them to the table saw for the final cuts. Yes, the blade changes are mystifying but I’m not going to replace my saw until it stops working. It still works like a champ.

[@hawkercnc8261]

Nice review. Seeing the rotation possible with setting the saw to the track I wonder if you have the saw at an angle to the track and the rear after following teeth one side are causing the roughness. I have always wondered why reviewers do not use some of the highly accurate engineering kit to test equipment. If a saw is meant to cut an inch deep, measure it. It the angle says 45degrees, then measure it. My small de Walt circular has the base slightly out of line with the blade, which is not easy to alter. Cutting against a long straight edge causes the saw to lock up after about 3 feet and become very difficult. Not too different to what you are experiencing. Again good measuring kit shows the problem. Test the blade to the guide, front and back and see if you are 20 thou out or so. This is more difficult to do, but good luck with it.

[@matts.8342]

I understand what you are saying, but the saw was meant to cut more than 2" deep. It couldn't make it through a 2" piece of wood on it's max setting. He doesn't have to have a precision measuring tool to know that it's depth of cut is inaccurate since it couldn't cut 2" when set to it's max depth of 2 1/8".

[@marklynnreed]

I own the corded Dewalt track saw and really like it. All of the things you didn't like about it are things you get used to and aren't a problem. The 102" track bends easily and I wonder if the Milwaukee track would be stronger. The hard push down start button is bothersome to me. having the cord come out the left side also can be a pain to deal with, but still better than carrying the weight of a battery and having the saw worthless when new battery tech makes it obsolete. My saw will last 30 years with medium light duty..... good video. new sub. thumbs up.

[@vkevpe]

Having been a wood worker for 40 years, I don’t get the track saw. Free hand with circular saw for unexposed edges, a straight edge for exposed edges with circular saw. A track saw would make sense for a big shop, but then why not buy a panel saw that cuts 4 sheets at a time, as I did at my first job at a production cabinet shop where I worked in the 70s. I just don’t get this tool!

[@patchesZA]

I use a 3m Makita track in my 2.5m wide workshop. I sometimes wish it was double sided as I have to walk out the workshop to spin the track around. The only other benefit I can think of is if one wants to run 2 different blades with different kerfs. One splinter guard can be trimmed up match each.

[@wittworks]

That’s actually a great point!

[@joel6427]

I am a precision sheet metal professional who instantly knows what is happening with the raising knife. (that's one of the names closed captions called it) Seeing the edge quality, I can tell it is a stamped sheet metal part. It also has a dimple formed on one end. The raw material is fed into the punch press from a coil, meaning it was never flat to start with, and every part is different as the coil diameter diminishes. Then there are the stresses from being stamped, adding more un-flatness. The dimple formation puts additional surface stresses, which are all unpredictable. Then there is a hole punched on the same end. All of that activity has changed the tension, causing the bowing mostly on that end. The bottom line is the manufacturer either ignored, failed to see the need, or forgot the need to straighten the part before plating it.

[@firereverie]

Bought into DeWalt, and don't want to spend extra money on batteries for other platforms if possible. Still appreciate the critical, informative review. I'm sure each brand has areas they could improve on and DeWalt is definitely not an exception, so thank you for letting us know what we're up against. Notes on DeWalt's marketing wankery concerning batteries: Nominal voltage of the 60V Max system is 54v, nominal for 20V Max is 18v. The 54v batteries are really 3x 18v with either a series configuration for a combined voltage of 54v or parallel configuration for extended capacity which is annoyingly marketed on the 54v system to show the 18v combined capacity, not the 54v. So a 9ah 60V Max DeWalt battery is really a 3ah 54v battery or a 9ah 18v. Dumb marketing, really dumb, but also how DeWalt managed to not have to slot multiple batteries to the track saw.

[@bostonloyalty4804]

Gotta ask how exactly were you able to figure out the battery voltages etc?? Please help me🙏. I own all Makita tools (They usually have the best quality materials in their tools that imho separate them from most competitors though admittedly not necessarily the best design and their main downfall by far is that their tools usually always cost significantly more) All that said here's my dilemma/question I desperately need help with) please respond back or anyone else reading this that is knowledgeable to answer PLEASE RESPOND So I'm in need for a new miter saw and table saw. I'm only interested in the cordless setup after countless hours of research I'm shooting for Milwaukees 10" miter chop box and Milwaukees 8-1/4" table saw... Anyways here's my question to you finally.... What would be the issue "if any" if I add my Makita 18V LXT 5Ah battery's to the aftermarket Adapter that then slides into place where Milwaukees M18 battery "Redlithium HD8.0 or HD12.0" Would it matter? How can I figure out the voltage or whatever's needed so I can be sure I'm not damaging the motor or frying the saws?? Id actually even prefer Dewalts table saw right now since it's on sale but I've got no clue if it would work with my Makita batteries since their battery table saw takes "FlexVolt 60V Max 9.0 Ah". I'm curious if I found an attachment for Makitas NEW "40V Max XGT 4.0AH" be enough or would I have to buy makitas highest 40V Max XGT 8.0AH which is freaking😒$389 alone! Please PLEASE Respond back someone. I've got to figure this out. No I am not trying to just cave in and buy each brands battery and charger. I'm a loyal Makita guy and I would much prefer to get over on all of them for a change, than they getting over on all of us with todays ridiculous pricing! Thank You China for making the adapters which helps save our middle blue collar class Americans by-pass our unaffordable system. It's absolutely ridiculous how an average tradesman would have to struggle for many many months to pay off one's tools HAHHAHA yeah my fault 🤦‍♂️ for the little rant

[@PineyJustice]

@@bostonloyalty4804 The milwaukee HD8 and HD12 batteries are a massive step up over the 5ah batteries. They use 21700 cells vs the normal 18650 cells, a whole battery size up that has major improvements in current handling and capacity. It would be unwise to attempt to use the multi voltage packs with an adapter, it sucks but getting a battery or two means you're not using up your makita batteries as well. A single HD12.0 will last you a long time, my 5-6 year old 1st gen milwaukee 9.0 battery in a m18 fuel sawzall was able to demo an entire kitchen, 8 2x8 joists and 3 walls all on one charge while being used to cut conduit as well for a whole week. Unless you are just spending all day ripping boards on the table saw or mitering, I'd expect a single battery to last you most of a day.

[@richardmccann4815]

​@@bostonloyalty4804 good luck. I know you must use matching batteries for best performance. I would just buy a good extension cord, and forget batteries for large tools. It simply can't be worth the cost & effort unless you work in the deep woods. Battery powered motors under severe loads will have more problems, and shortened life if batteries aren't fully charged at peak loading. I have milwaukee, Dewalt, rigid, ryobi, and craftsman tools and batteries, as well as old ridgid and Milwaukee nickel cadmium battery tools. I buy when things are available, at yard sales and such, and buy new batteries as needed. Don't sell your soul to be loyal to one company. Especially festool. Good luck.

[@randallthomas5207]

The DeWalt 20, and 60V batteries are called that to differentiate them from the old DeWalt 18V lithium, with the stub, which didn’t sell well because it was twice as expensive as their NiCad batteries, and wouldn’t charge below 35F, or above 100F. Which to the guys I knew working in LasVegas, was a huge issue. You don’t want to run your Diesel pickup all day just to have somewhere to charge their batteries.

[@firereverie]

@@bostonloyalty4804 DeWalt posts theirs in the fine print, I believe they're required to do so to avoid litigation for false advertising. Alternatively you could put a voltmeter on a fully charged battery or if you know the individual cell voltage you can math out what the pack should be. For the DeWalt stuff the info is pretty ubiquitous, you might just need to do some googling.

[@tomholman2881]

Thank You for a most thorough evaluation...You sold me on the Milwaukee.

[@wittworks]

Solid choice.

[@johnbullough6431]

I’ve had this track saw for a few years now no problems at all. I use the festool tracks better than the dewalt ones I think 👍

[@wittworks]

Good to know

[@OeStErA1EsCo]

I was really surprised how much cutting power (and torque) this saw had out of the box. I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw kzbin.infoUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.

[@sloppydoggy9257]

I don't really see the point of a cordless track saw that also wants you to hook up dust collection.

[@garymelrose9727]

Yep, Milwaukee's copy of the previous generation Festool is spot on. Pity it's the same price as the newest generation Festool in the UK. There's a reason that the yellow Black and Decker is the cheapest of the bunch...or several reasons, obviously.

[@mindsurfer101101]

A master class in fixing what isn't broke.

[@martylucas8557]

A tool doesn’t have to be broken to not work well. A poorly designed tool is a broken tool.

[@nuworldman9280]

Great video, I have been a furniture maker for 43 years. 1st, I love most all tools, 2nd as with most all people that use power tools, we mostly grew up with Dewalt tools and have an expectation of Dewalt being pretty good quality. What's amazing is you were so gentle and hesitant not to offend the Dewalt lovers, but the truth is the truth. Sorry for the haters you will get, but this is why I watch. Your honest. Thanks Great video.

[@tedspens]

I could never understand why anybody needs a track saw at all, much less the latest and greatest to hit the market. I've been making my own track on jobsites, usually from scrap lumber, since long before track saws became a thing. I guess I'm just old school.

[@cuebj]

That's what I do. But, now retired, I wish I could justify a good tracksaw with accessories to do most of what table saws and mitre saws do. Faster, neater, less dust than circular saw with my own 'track'. My new corded Makita circular saw has a track attachment and works very well

[@tedspens]

@@cuebj If I was retired (soon, I hope), that would be justification enough 😁. I can see keeping a track saw with various length tracks stored neatly in a shop. I was thinking about jobsites, where the less tools I need, the better. Congrats on the retirement! 🎉🥂

[@ltandrepants]

Have you ever used one? It will change your mind.

[@tedspens]

@@ltandrepants No, never needed one. If I did more custom cabinet or high-end trim work, or if I had a workshop, then I could see investing in a good one. But for my work I would rarely use it.

[@AlexFournier-o5d]

I had the same issue with the riving knife on my corded DeWalt tracksaw! Real head scratcher. Spent an hour tuning it up and now the saw is extremely accurate. I much prefer the DeWalt over the Festool and Makitas that I have used quite a bit.

[@flboy77]

I am so happy you did this. Upstanding and outstanding, Drew. I’ll watch this again just so you get the view back.

[@wittworks]

Thanks Ryan! I will value your view more than the 6k I lost 😞

[@austincalda6646]

I’ll give you another one as well.

[@meangreen7389]

Your video was well thought out and provided an amazing amount of great information regarding track saws. I’ve had a table saw for years and to this day I have a lot of respect for it and a heathy amount fear of it. A neighbor had a Festool track saw but never realized their versatility until you spoke of it. Thank for sharing this well produced video.

[@TheBaconAgent212]

I use this dewalt track saw and I’m very happy with it It has so much power and cuts so smooth It’s a very good saw but needed a lot of attention to meet my standards I ended up removing the riving knife due to the same issue you were having I also do not use the dewalt tracks I use only Makita tracks with all TSO accessories I know it’s a different saw than typical but it is very good

[@wittworks]

Good for you! I was impressed with the motor. I probably needed a better blade.

[@thepewplace1370]

I'm curious if you have seen the same issue of a smooth offcut and marred keep cut as he had in video, and if so, was it rectified by putting a better blade on the saw, or adjusting how the saw marries to the track?

[@TheBaconAgent212]

@@thepewplace1370 Proper calibration and a good blade makes all the difference for any saw

[@ShopNation]

Very interesting. I’m really trying to figure out that double hinge…so weird but I know it’s for a reason

[@B.r.i.a.n.1]

I'm surprised more people don't appreciate the 2 sided track. It's been amazing for me. I don't like the 45 but really have never used it anyway. Always 45 on table saw. Took a while to get used to the odd hinge. Love the saw overall. Came from corded kreg and makita.

[@Caymen43]

Oh dang!! Ive had the dewalt 60v tracksaw since it was released. Everything you said was dead on (except I never had an issue with my riving knife). Ive pretty much adjusted to most of those issues you mentioned, but to this day, I still pull my hair out with blade change. I always seem to forget the process and have to go back to KZbin for instructions. Im a Dewalt guy, but when people ask, I tell them to go elsewhere or wait for Dewalts gen2

[@apswirl]

For narrow cuts on smaller pieces of wood, I think there’s still a great argument for table saws. However, I bought the Festool TSV 60 track saw with scoring feature and a CT MIDI Dust Extractor and the TSO Parallel Guide/Guide Rails. My SawStop will NEVER come close to the beautiful, finish ready cuts I get with this setup. Squaring my wood is incredibly easier as well and then knocking out repeat cuts. Buying this combo was literally addictive and building a complete Festool setup. And the built Bluetooth and plug on the dust extraction means my corded and cordless Festool products have the best and most convenient dust collection available. When you think about buying once and crying once, Festool is why!! ZERO regrets and never looking back!

[@BigGollum1]

This video really keep me interested all the time, seems like everything you pointed out was relevant and important , also well explained. thank you !! I might buy one for a project I know I only be doing 90 degrees cuts, but also if the difference between this one and the Milwaukee it is not too big, I would rather buy one of those.

[@randallthomas5207]

RE DeWalt’s 20V-60V batteries. The Dual voltage rating is achieved by switching between three 18V batteries, in series or in parallel. A large advantage of this setup, is that the DeWalt batteries can be shipped air freight because they are less than the threshold value for airfreight.

[@jimclarke88]

Don't know if anyone else has touched on this, but I recall another review of this saw and it works with Festool tracks so, you could have used your track square all along.

[@deemdoubleu]

I watched this video because I was having one or two issues with my Dewalt track saw (mainly vibration when cutting even a shallow depth). I would like to share what I found after going back to my garage to have a closer look. I took the blade out (the original 48T Dewalt blade) and found that on the back was a thick flat ring of burnt on rubber presumably from when I "initialised" the track and perhaps on a few subsequent cuts. The rubber was a real bitch to remove - had to use fine wire wool and spirit to remove it. Could not scrape it off with my fingernail, it was stuck really hard. Anyway, after giving it a really good clean including removing all the rubber deposits on the back side of the hardened teeth, the vibration was gone. So if you are having vibration problems please check this because the rubber is upsetting the balance of your blade.

[@wittworks]

great info! Thank you

[@owlbear793]

I am so thankful i found your video. I just had to replace my Makita corded and was considering the Dewalt. I do not not have an issue with an extension cord tagging along so I did buy another corded Makita for a little under $400. BTW, I had to replace the Makita because I abused it by taking full depth cuts on 8/4 pecan slabs! It did well for a while but I burned it out eventually. Won't do that again.

[@dravnieks]

I have this saw, mostly because of the collection of other yellow tools sharing the same battery. But I am using it with Festool rails without any problems, including rail square and parallel guides for Festool rails

[@randallthomas5207]

Re DeWalts track design: They came up with the centered guide design to avoid patent infringement issues with Festool. The DeWalt solution was their proprietary track, and a base on their saw which works with the Festool track. I bought the DeWalt kit when their corded saw first came out, and spent the $500 dollar difference in price between, the DeWalt and the Festool to buy used Festool tracks off eBay, and track accessories. I ended up with a lot better kit for my uses that way, than I could have buying genuine Festool stuff. Recently, I wanted a battery track saw, and bought a 60V DeWalt at HomeDesperate on sale for $179, and ordered a base for the DeWalt 54V European version through a British parts house on the internet and ended up with a battery track saw, for just around $275.

[@joshuawiedenbeck6944]

Festool tracks are definately the way to go. I accidentally dropped one off of my truck onto an entrance ramp of a busy highway. It got ran over all day (the metro area is a million people), and then I went looking for it after work. I found it and tried using it. It worked exactly like it was supposed it. Just a couple scratches on the face of it.

[@IliadDreyfus-js9oe]

Sure it did buddy. I'm sure no one stole it after sitting out all day in million people traffic.

[@joshuawiedenbeck6944]

@@IliadDreyfus-js9oe I still have it and use it to this day. You can choose to believe it isn't true, but that doesn't make you correct.

[@flatroc1]

Thank you for this video. I have found as a tool nut, The best thing about Dewalt is there tool carry bags, because I can carry my Milwaukee tools in them and no one will steel them. LoL. but true.

[@wittworks]

SOOOOOO FUNNNNNYYYY

[@duncanmatthews1654]

I use dewalt corded track saw with festool midi vac so no need to worry about Bluetooth, I love the dewalt air lock system on the vacuum I run a festool domino with the same vacuum I much prefer the dewalt air lock to the festool system. The depth is a slight gripe but as a cabinet maker of over 20 years I have learnt to never fully trust a scale anyway so just get it set up correctly irrespective of what the scale says. My biggest issue with the track saw is the rail connecting two rails together is always a bit of a faf, could do with two straight parallel joining bars rather than one, find it is tricky to get it straight but again once it's set. it's set! Personally I prefer the tstak boxes over the festool I know I can stand on the tstak as the plastic is kinda rubbery and doesn't split if in the back of van etc the festool box I've never stood on mine as I'm pretty sure it would crack in a heartbeat also pretty sure the festool box will smash all to hell if you dropped it. on hindsight I should have gone mefell but for budget, and I'm already in the dewalt system.

[@nsatoday]

Concerning flexVolt batteries they operate in 2 modes. In one, parallel, it’s 18v with higher available amperage. In series, the battery produces 54v at a lower amperage. Higher voltage system have less overall loss when compared to lower voltage systems. I think it was a pretty good idea on dewalts part. There are also regulations about batteries on plans etc, that’s why the default unhooked setting is 18v instead of the 54v configuration. Operation in series is done when the battery connects to the appropriate tool.

[@jlustig1179]

I think the coarse texture on one side of your cut would be the back of the blade dragging on that side. That in turn may be connected to the difficulty marrying the saw to the base. If it's a little scewed it would set the back of the blade against one side of the cut.

[@morskakumara1003]

That makes sense

[@MarkAlbert]

Yes, it reminds me of results I had been seeing on my table saw until I realized the rip fence wasn‘t perfectly parallel to the saw blade. Fortunately, it’s adjustable on my table saw.

[@dilldowschwagginz2674]

I don't typically get my track saw out of the tool trailer. I do regularly need to make precise, very straight cuts but I almost always use a straight edge whether that be a clamp edge, 8 ft level or sometimes a 12' stick of MDF baseboard that has been jointed if necessary. The key is to always have at least one circ saw that you only use for precision cuts. Personally, I keep a Skilsaw in a separate lock box that is only for this purpose. It doesn't get used for anything else for any reason that way the shoe and blade alignment stays true. I have a Makita track saw setup that works very well but it doesn't produce better results than I can get out of the method mentioned above. What I WOULD like to have though is a track saw setup for a 4" wet circ saw. That would be helpful because using a secured straight edge with a wet circ saw is a different ballgame and it doesn't always work as well

[@ACDC267]

I do the same. I have a worm drive skill saw with Ole Bessy written on the side. Only used for my precision cuts. Works great. A 10' level, two clamps, and a high quality blade is just as good as a track saw.

[@toddbeaver3494]

This is a fair review ! have this cordless saw . and also the Festool system . I feel the power from the 60 volt system is unparalled ! The double sided track is a huge plus for me ! Flipping those long tracks is a pain. The quality of the track is reflected in the price . I have invested heavily in the Dewalt 12/20/60 volt platform and almost equally as much in the Milwaukee 12/18 platform . I have both Milwaukee and Dewalt cordless tablesaw's ...Dewalt cordless hand tools are a bit lighter in weight , which as a pro makes a huge diff ! I have had motor problems with Flexvolt chopsaws , just days outside the warranty ...! Also have killed some Dewalt brushless impacts and was advised that the brushless tools can't be pushed as hard as the brushed ones ! I'm also a fan/ user of the TSO system . I ordered the Dewalt adapter ! Thanks for the heads up !

[@AndrewScofield]

I bought this saw 4 years ago and love it. No riving knife problems, and from reading comments here it sounds like maybe they had a some sort of QC fail there. Your criticisms are all fair, just nothing that really bothers me when I use it. One thing that is probably another QC fail is the depth of cut, I do get the full depth cut they mention in the specs. That fact that you are not AND the depth stop is off could mean another QC issue, maybe with the plunge mechanism?

[@wittworks]

Good to know! It’s a recent saw, so my guess is a bad batch?

[@johnathonallen2545]

I've always used my Dewalt track saw for rough dimension cuts. I never rely on it for the final cut. I reserve that for the table saw. And I have not found a situation where I needed to do a full plunge cut.

[@lounackman6104]

Great review. I've owned the Corded Makita for several years now and it is truly a great value if you don't need cordless. My only negative is the depth scale is metric & I don't use the saw often enough to remember the conversions in my head. I keep forgetting to make my own marks on the scale for common depths of 1/4, 1/2, 3/8 etc , otherwise a great saw. I noted yours does indeed sound off & noted some arcing at the brushes - might be time for new ones.

[@randallthomas5207]

Or, he hasn’t used it much, and they need to wear in.

[@vaakdemandante8772]

or you could just switch to metric altogether

[@thomasswenddal772]

I like your reviews. They are very thorough and explain objectively why you're giving the opinion you're giving. They are also very entertaining, thanks! Fortunately for me though I learned how to use a table saw 50 years ago, and while they are very dangerous to use to cut down 4 x 8 sheets of plywood I'd never switch. A few side tables and/or adjustable infeed/outfeed supports plus knowing to never take ones off the infeed part of the fence. Works for my needs. I like these new track saws I just wouldn't change now but glad my grandkids will. (Bench Tool Rule #1 If the piece I'm working on disappeared where would my hands go? Don't place your hands to be pushing at those points.

[@bilgyno1]

I just bought a DeWalt corded circular saw, which fits the same rails. The manual says the double sides serve to set one splinter guard for a straight cut, and the other for a beveled cut. I'll look into those TSO accessories, as I'd like to avoid having to get a table saw.

[@chia-changlai9929]

I've got the dewalt track saw. I think it's a pretty good thing to have on a job site. I had to buy the clamps for the tracks and track extension for ripping claddings. But I think the benefit of having all dewalt batteries with this saw is bonus. I have to say that I used to own a corded makita before, but the motor is nowhere as powerful, and the accessories wasn't as good as dewalt. If you want to do more precise woodworking, I think Festool is the way to go. But for using it on a job site I found that my dewalt is quite robust and lasting me a few good years so far.

[@mistress24099]

I think I see the advantage to the double hinge plunge system. Now understand I'm a Makita corded track saw user and I also own a Grizzly track saw as well and the one thing I've noticed about them vs this DEWALT is the fact that your wrist rotates to a different angle from start up to plunging and moving forward where as on the DEWALT your wrist angle stays the same. But this is just my observation.

[@wittworks]

Good thoughts. How about that grizzly!

[@mistress24099]

@@wittworks it's good for the price personally. I changed the blade to a CMT blade. I mean it hooks to my festool dust extractor but still kinda dusty though. Other than that it not all that bad. I still use my Makita as my main unit in the shop and on the job site.

[@that0guy9]

Not sure If others have said but your main gripe can be overcome by using a festool track (it works with other brands) the other thing is it is both a 60v and 18v battery well actually 54v but for some reason Dewalt markets them as 60v in America. It has a super cool switch inside converting it to 54v to be used in flex volt tools but also works in 18v tools. The depth and angle gauges are definitely a big negative. I’m still tempted because it saves me having to have another battery platform.

[@GianmarioScotti]

If I had $600+ for a tracksaw, I'd go with a brand that is famous for caring about ergonomics, longevity, cut quality and accuracy, like Makita or Festool. In the long term, Makita and Festool are cheaper and healthier.

[@gerardbroussard6336]

I own the corded version of this saw and, like you, have been frustrated changing blades and operating the depth gauge. I’ve been in search for a square for the Dewalt track for years. So thanks for the TSO tip. Despite the quirks, I think the saw is awesome. Although I might upgrade to the cordless version.

[@wittworks]

I’m glad I’m not the only one who found those functions difficult!

[@johnhaller5851]

The cordless saw motor is 360W (60Vx6A), the corded version motor is 1300W. For sheet goods, that's probably not an issue, and the power cord is always in the way. If one is doing 2" cuts in hardwood, the corded one probably is a better choice.

[@gerardbroussard6336]

@@johnhaller5851 great to know! Thanks

[@devirped]

unfortunately i don't believe dewalt cares about good tool usage anymore. i had only a set of dewalt wrenches that i needed to work on a jetski today and the set did not include a 10mm wrench. the literal most important wrench size.

[@TestECull]

9:15 This is the correct way to do it. The other methods may be easier but they will be prone to vibrating loose in use. I have never once touched a circular saw that didn't shake like crazy. DeWalt's method LOCKS DOWN the adjustments so they won't go anywhere. Yes, it's a bit more fiddly to set up, but it will STAY set up day in and day out.

[@WoodworkingWombat]

The double sided track sounds very good to me. No need to flip the track back and forth when cutting beams etc

[@thekinarbo]

The best part of those TSO parallel guides is the quick adapters for Festool guide rails. Instead of having to slide the parallel guides from the end then screw them tight, you just slap it down on the guide rail, when finished you just pick it up off the guide rail.

[@wittworks]

I know! I’m so impressed with the TSO engineers. Always blows my mind.

[@johnmunoz8845]

I've had my Dewalt track saw since (2020) for 3 years. The reason I won't recommend this track saw is because of the guide rail. I purchased both the 59” & 102” and they both developed a inward curve. Dewalt says "both the heat and the train passing over a rail can cause it to buckle". They sent me a new 102” under the 3 year warranty and it was shippined badly damaged. After sending pictures of the damage rail to Dewalt they didn't want to deal with me anymore and sent me to a 3rd party tech support that never answer their phone or emails. I trashed the dewalt rails as I slowly transfer to Festool. Although the cost is painful I have to move on.

[@wittworks]

Oh yuck! Sorry to hear that. You’re not the first person to mention warped tracks.

[@newttella1043]

Glad I saw this video. As a DIYer, I'll never remember how to deal with quirks. I still don't know how you change the saw blade after your demo, nevermind in two years when I want to use a track saw again.

[@Toby-xv4mm]

I have the Dewalt track saw, and I use it almost every day. After figuring out how to change the blade😅. Everything else works just fine for me. I cut a lot of melamine with it, and it does a good job.

[@intrepidus3378]

My Makita corded saw sounds just like yours does when it starts up. I never thought much of it.

[@vmoutsop]

I think I'm having deja vu. Didn't I see this already?

[@5ElementsWoodworking]

Just a glitch in the matrix, move along....

[@vmoutsop]

@@5ElementsWoodworking 🤣

[@wittworks]

I have no idea what you’re talking about 😘

[@vmoutsop]

@@wittworks Oh crap, we really are in the matrix.

[@anthonyseiver7000]

The white box at the start was too small for a Festool TSC55, to fix the Dewalt issues

[@wittworks]

Hahaha. Very true

[@georgiafan775]

I agree with the problems you saw except for one. It may take a tool to marry the saw to the track but wouldn't it be more secure and hold true longer after more use or abuse

[@mstanton1ful]

I use DeWalts long and short tracks I have to marry the saw every time! This is enough to make me crazy.

[@wittworks]

🤢

[@patrickkelly8596]

I have had the dewalt tracksaw for 5 years and hate the blade change! I've broken the lever twice because of how complicated this feature is. I even went to e replacement parts to get that lever. HATE the blade change. Also dust extraction sux bad and have you tried to join 2 tracks together? The worst only having one joining bar! Luckily festool or makita tracks work with it uniquely. The parallel plunge versus the pivot plunge is different but hard to get used to. I also found a ton of deflection with this saw on long rips. Cmt blades are good but the best blade is the makita 56t for this saw.. long story short but just get the festool...

[@kevinthomson6324]

As for the cut quality I’m guessing the blade alignment is off. On my makita I took the time to set the back angle so the blade is ever so slightly (.003”) closer to the track on the from edge than the trailing edge. This way only on the up cut is your blade touching your finished part.

[@paulsim7589]

The depth guide, and a few other minor things feel very close to a deal breaker..., glad I don't have one yet, as I have a lot of Dewalt.

[@richmondpp]

Don’t know if anyone else’s has mentioned this, I haven’t read all the comments, but the dewalt will work on festool, makita etc guide rails, also, benchdogs make a nifty guide square for the dewalt guide rails. One more thing, the dewalt rails being able to cut on both sides means, you can use one side for 45 degree cuts and the other for normal cuts. Not saying the other makes aren’t better and I agree about the plunge depth guide being flimsy, but it is still a capable saw.

[@frankiedasilva4450]

Good reason to be able to cut on both sides of track is if you want to get close to a wall.

[@DAS-Machina]

I have the corded makita and it is great. I use it with the Festool dust extractor.

[@davecgriffith]

I have the corded version of the DeWalt (no table saw). Didn't know about how the double-sided track prevented attaching square guides (or, to be fair, that track guides we're even a thing) when I bought it, but have been feeling the absence since I learned about them. So I'm super excited by what's in the mystery box.

[@wittworks]

That’s great! I think the mystery box will unlock a lot of efficiency

[@Jones5774]

I was having trouble with the riving knife. It was working its way to the blade so I took it out. This is not one of my primary tools so I don’t use it much. After watching this video I decided to revisit the riving knife but first a blade change because I didn’t remember it being as difficult as you found it to be. I fought it and fought it following the instructions in the manual like a good boy. After some prayer (I should have done that first) I figured it out. It only works when the saw is pushed down to full depth!! I had the the cutting depth limited to something less than full depth. The riving knife will have to wait for another day.

[@1badawg66]

I am deep into the Dewalt 20/60 volt system. I am also in the Milwaukee M12. That’s good for me. No more different batteries. For me, someone who is interested in a track saw, but has never used one, I’ll be buying the Dewalt to stay in the ecosystem and the “quirks” as you call the will be just how it is. Power is probably the only thing that would be a deal breaker but this saw has all the power it could need.

[@RoundTownWithMike]

Took me like 30 minutes to figure out how to change the blade on my new DeWalt job site table saw. They over think that! I LOVE my Makitas. They are so simple (as long as you don't loose the key!)

[@billcramer5851]

If you want a linger cord no your Makita, just do as I did. I went to Menard's and bought a 25 ft. extension cord and removed the receptacle end and the original cord from my saw. Thread the extension cord through the rubber guide and reconnect the wires to the saw, replace the handle and you're ready to go.

[@GreenPlasticWaterCan]

As commented on first upload, except not as extended: The riving knife is probably unflat due to the stamping process. The big coils of material need to be flattened before they go into the die. Based on your video my guess is that they didn't do it properly or that they didn't compensate for the different stress levels at the different stage of the coil. Says a lot about the "quality" imo.

[@wittworks]

Thank you! Good point

[@cuebj]

I'm finding DeWalt quality has plummeted. Especially corded where they seem to be cranking out very old gear less well than in (Elu) past. Contrast Makita, who seem to modify their historical corded gear upwards

[@milesobrien2694]

Just a bit of info. DeWalt is a subsidiary of Staley Black & Decker. DeWalt is _assembled_ in the US from parts manufactured in Brazil, China and Mexico.

[@sampantiliano]

I’m 100% a Milwaukee guy but I have the Dewalt track saw because Milwaukee took forever releasing the track saw. I’ve cut miles of plywood over the last two years with it and it’s still very accurate. The depth of cut is a little bit off but it’s not a big deal once you figure it out. I have never tried cutting a miter.

[@dtoad48]

Seems like "marrying" the saw has hard locks on it so once you do it, it stays there. The other knobs could loosen over time, where a hard screw is very less likely.

[@rowdyyates7247]

I have owned the old cordless 28 volt Dewalt track saw I think I bought around 2008. It's not a whole lot different than the new one. Back then, it was half the price of Festool and may have been the only competitor, I'm not sure. I've not noticed any of the issues, except the double hinge. It's weird, you're not expecting it to do that, but you get used to it. There's two tracks on the saw, so you can use Festool track and accessories if you like as I understand. So far I haven't bothered. All other things equal, you could just buy this saw, and Festool track. One advantage of the Dewalt track is your hand is in line with the guide rail and not askew. The other issues I never knew were issue until I watched this. Blade changes and track dial ins are few and far between, but yes, they could be easier. I guess I use my eye rather than the depth guide, due to different blades. Tilted cuts are fairly rare for me, but I never noticed an issue there, nor the riving knife. I don't get the saw marks you do, but am not cutting 2 inch maple, mostly just plywood and decks. When I got it, I was just happy I didn't have to use a clamped board and skillsaw any longer, and the cut was superior. Nor did I have to use my rigged up Porter cable tracksaw I made out of aluminum that was an adventure to use. Both of those taught me the value of having the guide rail in line with your hand, although I guess I never hear complaints about that on modern tracksaws. I'm surprised my batteries haven't died yet, and now they're not replaceable since they discontinued the 28v line. That's my main gripe, but the 60v seems like it is here to stay.

[@BardRaeLynFox]

I'm not in the market for a track saw just yet, but this video gives me some important things to consider when I'm ready to make that investment, and unless things change between now and then, DeWalt isn't looking like the top contender. While I'm a DeWalt fan for many things, I don't mind going with multiple battery platforms in order to get the product quality, tool accuracy, ease of use, AND affordability that I desire. Case in point: All of my yard tools are Greenworks, while most of my power tools are DeWalt-but my trim router is a Bosch, and corded to boot. My rule when considering a battery platform is that I must be able to answer "yes" to the question, "Do I currently own, or intend to buy, other tools that use this battery brand/voltage?" I care less if everything is on the same platform and more about whether I have only one tool-and thus, likely, only one battery and charger-on any given platform, because that creates a point of failure that could result in delays on some part of a project, especially if it's a tool I don't use enough to warrant keeping a spare battery around, because the spare would only end up collecting dust.

[@thepewplace1370]

Where are you using your tracksaw (plan to use, rather)? If you're not using it on jobsites, frankly I'd recommend getting a corded version of whatever saw piques your interest, rather than being pushed into this subpar offering, or having to buy into yet another battery platform. If youre working in a shop, it seems reasonable that getting power wouldn't be an issue, and you're very likely to have it hooked up to dust collection anyway. However, I will admit when I'm working in my home shop, it has been super convenient to be able to throw up some sawhorses outside, grab my M18 and just make dust outside. Likewise, replacing soffits and trim around the house, it's been super nice to just carrying sawhorses and tracksaw from one side of the house to the other. But, I could have done all of that with a corded saw, an extension cord, and slightly more set up time. Anyway, there's lots of great options to choose from these days, and it's almost a good thing that the dewalt saw is so bad, because you don't really even have to consider it, meaning you have as close to an unbiased choice of the rest of the market as it's possible to get! Good luck.

[@jeffhager7493]

Hello, Just watched the video about the Dewalt 60v track saw and appreciate all the info. I have a corded Makita tracksaw and several rails including the 118in rail. However I have switched from cordless makita tools to Dewalt mainly due to availability. I have a Bomgaars store near me and they have amazing deals on Dewalt. I now have about 40 Dewalt 20v tools and a couple 60v tools so in the field cordless is my go to so I am looking to add the Dewalt track saw. I agree some of the shortcomings of this saw are not you being nitpicky, Dewalt should have done better. But, for me, the matching battery platform will outweigh those shortcomings. I like the idea of having one charger and being able to swap batteries from tool to tool. I'm glad to hear the Dewalt will fit on the Makta track so I can just buy the bare tool. One thing that confused me that you said was that Dewalt was marketing this saw as a 60v but it was just an 18v. Maybe you meant it truly a 54v? Anyway, thanks for the indepth review!

[@danielpritchard3913]

All my battery tools are all dewalt, I had high hopes for this track saw but having used my dads corded festool many times I couldn’t get myself to buy the dewalt. If I get a jobsite track saw I’ll probably either wait till dewalt revises it or just buy my own festool.

[@adamlo5025]

I'm a professional Cabinet maker. My first tracksaw and current one is a second hand corded Dewalt, purchased for only $200. Before that, I borrow a corded Makita from a friend. The problems and flaws were just stuff to get used to. Overall i found that it wasn't too much of a difference compared to the Makita, especially when I mainly use them to break down sheet goods. My only gripe was the horrible tracks. Trying to connect two tracks to cut 8foot length wise was a painful ordeal. They almost never align and where im from, the long Dewalt tracks are impossible to purchase. I simply gave up and got the long Makita track instead. Resorted to cutting off a few millimeters off the Dewalt tracksaw foot to fit into the Makita track ( to avoid the anti-tipping recess) Overall still a great saw and i have nothing much to complain about. Might convert to the Festool in the future.

[@jonrhaider]

I've always thought DeWalt has the highest quality high-density plastic in their class, and probably the best brushless motors. The feel and quality of their parts (specifically the yellow casing plastic), imo, exceeds the others. I had one of the 18V sets for over 15 years (only ever had to replace one trigger switch), I just upgraded to the newer 20V/60V Flex system a couple years ago and love it. But outside of cordless drills/impact guns, reciprocating and basic circular saws, I've had bad experiences with every single other DeWalt tool I've bought. For years, I would only buy DeWalt, and time after time I'd be disappointed, writing the previous bad experience to user error or bad luck. Utility knives, screw driver sets, drill bits, cordless lights, tape measures, levels, etc. Every single one of those items (and I tried multiple of each) was lower quality than the less expensive alternative. Anything they don't particularly specialize in, I steer clear of.

[@FrankJDurante]

wow... thanks.... I have the Makita.... getting that parallel guide as I already use the 90 degree TSO.... THANK YOU... I hate having to setup table saw all the time and track saw is much easier with heavy wood I'm working with

[@FrankJDurante]

Also forgot to mention..... I have Dewalt everything else except the track saw.

[@rjn5579]

Sold my Dewalt track saw as soon as the Milwaukee came out. I was totally fed up with the wacky blade change buttons and the cheap plastic depth/angle adjustment controls. The weird plunge mechanism was a minor annoyance. I'm glad to have the normal plunge on the Milwaukee but that alone wouldn't have caused me to sell it.

[@wittworks]

Glad to know I’m not the only one who found it wacky!

[@loucifer4205]

The plunge mechanism feels the most natural

[@scottbeattie7394]

I have a Bench dogs square on my Dewalt track it works brilliant

[@adamtravismeinhardt]

When I got my dewalt track saw it didn't even come with a depth gauge adjustement. I contacted their product support guys and even after making a safety issue out of not have a depth adjustment they made me purchase the pieces to add a depth gauge to the saw. I've been buying red tools ever since.

[@bradutsuciu3252]

You are making a point. Several actually. I don't own this but a DWS520, the wired version. It has less flaws. However, despite the pertinent observations you are making here, there are a few aspects that need to be taken into consideration. DeWalt had their own R&D and, implicitly, their own version of the plunge saw, with what they considered to me improvements. You are generalizing that all plunge saws should be used for the same jobs. They are not. The DeWalt has its own niche. This saw is rugged, it's built to take it out there to the work site. Not destined for use inside the shop with a ton of jigs and replacing a table saw. The DWS leaves a perfectly smooth cut. If it doesn't, change the blade. The track is made that way in order to be reversible. Which is very useful on the site. More than that, you can use one side for 90-degree cuts and the other one for angled cuts. These things are built with purpose, not random. You can get additional edge rubbers and replace them. The splinter guard is adjustable (on the DWS). Yes, you drew the short stick with your bent guard but that's not how they all are. I don't believe they are built for gadgets. The 2-stage plunge is a safety feature. So is the superb anti-kickback mechanism. All in all, it's a workhorse with the great outdoors in mind. It's not built for finesse. (Although it can output finesse and there are jigs out there even for this 'bad boy')