How to Joint Boards Wider than Your Jointer -- WOOD magazine

[@bassinbob1965]

WOW!! What a life saving video. Thanks so much for taking your time to make and post this video. Cheers

[@Kcustom216]

What about running a flush trim bit after the pass on the jointer? If that board is 8 inches wide a flush trim can reference the planed surface.

[@GuitarShorts]

This is a great idea, I see no reason why it wouldn’t be a solution. Gonna try it 👍

[@woodisgood85]

Save my day, thanks!

[@christopherdekonstrukt444]

Warping becomes evident on putting mitred corners together. Thank you, I have a bench planer, need to invest in a jointer.

[@OmarAhmad-gm1uc]

That’s pretty clever!

[@888rustey]

seems to me that that assumes that you get the board flat with only one pass on the jointer not likely in my experience

[@rem45acp]

How much wood do you typically remove on a jointer and planer before it's square? Let's say you buy a piece of lumber that whose actual (not common) dimensions is 1x6" as labeled on the tag. But you want your finished board to be 1" thick. Wouldn't you have to buy the next size up, which is like 1.5" thick, and mill that, then thickness it down over and over again to 1" thick?

[@HomeImProveMentHow]

This is a video with reloading for sure thanks for sharing I'm a woodworker myself I do finish carpentry custom staircases I'm just busy presently working on a shower doing tile which is been a huge learning curve so I have a few videos of that presently thanks for sharing can forward to hearing from you I recently joined your community Ken

[@ElShiester]

Thanks for the info, I’d really recommend dust collection though or a face mask.

[@2pi628]

Thanks for the instruction. very good.

[@grandadz_forge]

GOOD TIP!

[@ProTechEpoxyFloors]

Awesome tip. Thanks

[@timhalcomb4041]

Thanks for sharing

[@Gidjoiner]

I had to do this having the same setup, 6" jointer & a 12" thicknesser 👍

[@brianbagur9698]

Are you limited to one pass? It was stated that if you try to pass it through a second time you will have a little hang up on the part of the board that is larger than the jointer

[@chenangokid]

great tip but i needed a few passes and after the first pass it kept getting snagged on the rabbet ledge so it didnt really work well if it needs a few passes. unless i am missing something

[@TigerCarpenter]

nice hack, I'll use it in the future I was however looking for a trick to joint the pieces that are even wider than the planer width. both my jointer and planer are 12 inch wide. and my piece is 15 inches wide. I need to think of a trick that allows me to joint it on the 12 inch jointer.

[@SuperAragoon]

That is called a router sled my friend

[@samanthathomas5239]

Yup. Look up slab flattening jig/sled and you should find it

[@MinHongJiwoodstudio]

hi..I made a safety guide after watching your video. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.

[@kristilbilyeu7682]

I have what is probably a stupid question. Why not eliminate the step where you run the board across your jointer? Here’s my thinking. Like you said, the planer is going to reference the flat piece on the bottom. So why not just start there, tape a flat board to the bottom of the board you need to joint? When you run it thru the planer, it should make a flat surface on the top of your original board. Then take them apart and plane the second side of your board.

[@ForestWoodworks]

I was thinking the same the thing until I saw the response to your question, then a light 💡 went off. BAM! Jointing and rabetting the one side gives you the flat surface to mate the flat reference piece to, which then allows the opposite side to be planed flat. Once that side is flat, you flip over and can plane flat the rabetted side. I think this is mechanism behind this method. I have seen a technique using only a planer with the board being supported by shims held in place temporality by hot glue, which is then easy to remove. This method possibly alleviates the rebound cupping mentioned in the response.

[@ForestWoodworks]

@Bry Dor someday I'll finally have a table saw and can actually get to work setting up a shop to putz around in. I took the long way by purchasing an 80-year old Walker-Turner for a complete resto, which I'm documenting on my channel. Getting ready to upload the disassembly and cast iron resto vid. Thanks for the reply and positive contribution to the conversation!

[@HateToSeeIt321]

I’m not being fresh with this as I’m new to this type of carpentry. I have a customer that wants me to make them a table out of 2x12 ash. Couldn’t you just skip the face planing and just run it through the planer?

[@Wood]

The feed rollers of a planer temporarily press a cupped board flat while it planes the top face. Once the board clear the feed rollers, it returns to its cupped shape, so you now have a thinner board that's still cupped. A jointer actually removes the non-flat material (the edges of a cupped board) repeatedly until the face of the board is flat. Now, the planer has a flat reference surface to work with. www.woodmagazine.com/tool-reviews/joiners-planers/free-jointer-and-planer

[@rem45acp]

Wow I thought you would just rotate it around and pass it through the jointer again?

[@LandLockedSailor69]

How about just using a hand plane and winding sticks

[@Juanvla]

so the answer to the jointer problem is buy a planer?

[@thejohnhend]

Juanvla if you have a joiner you should also have a planer.

[@georgescarlett2320]

Can you say "S N I P E"???

[@nitrousman8882]

Why would you not simply use the thickness planer in the first place?

[@WickedWood]

The planer would thickness plane under the cutter head only using its pressure rollers to push the wood down tight against the short planer bed before and after it cuts. However once that wood leaves the cutting area, the spring/twist you wanted to get rid would still be there, albeit the correct thickness. In simple terms, a board coming out of a planer will be the same thickness it's whole length. A jointer is effective becuase it has long beds that allow a large amount or all of the wood you are cutting to ride along before and after the cut. The out feed side of the jointer is taller than the in feed side by the same amount the cutter is removing from wood. Pressure is put on the wood on the in feed side and the cupping/twist/spring is taken out of the board in one or multiple passes depending on how bad it is. A board coming out of the jointer will almost never be the same thickness it's whole length, but it will be flat. This is when the thickness planer comes into play. The longer the jointer beds, the more accurate it will be. The opposite applies to the length of the board.

[@Reviews-Tidbits]

Kind of defeats the purpose of having a jointer, just use a planer sled , done.

[@matthewraftary4188]

I always shake my head when I see videos exposing shop safety but the videographer does not wear dust protection. 🤷‍♂️🤦🏻

[@TheFirebrew]

Not all are gentlemen. Women enjoy woodworking too!

[@The_Conqueeftador]

Rabbit? That's a fancy name for self inflicted "snipe" from the homemade jig.

[@guyh.4553]

Not a good description. This assumes that you have a thickness planer. I was looking for ONLY using a jointer. Bad headline! Did not like the video

[@DragnEYE]

If you only have a jointer you will never get your lumber square on all sides anyways, so get a planer or just stop caring about squaring it.