Wooden Gear Clock made with CNC Router

[@prettybusyinc]

Magnificent Workmanship. Congratulations to all Involved!!!

[@DormantIdeasNIQ]

Thank you for posting this video... an easy like and subscribe! Though you are not showing the tech part on the CAD and router, you are showing what is so important and missing in so many other videos! Showing the process, the tools used, the type wood used, the resulting cuts by the tools, the glues, etc... is invaluable for one launching into this stuff blind. It helps knowing what to buy to get setup and get successful results fast... that minimizes the costly trial and error that would otherwise occur! Thank you so much!

[@Mexfishing]

For the dowel, use your cnc. Mill hole in a waste board that you can press the dowel into then insert the dowel and drill with the router at the same x&y 0. The dowel has no option but to be on center.

[@richardevans6891]

Thanks for the tip.

[@BigHWorks]

Great video Richard, thanks! I bought the plans recently from Clayton and hope to build this fall after I get a few other projects out of the way.

[@santoshgokul724]

How to get the file sir

[@BigHWorks]

@@santoshgokul724 in the description above

[@woodwaker1]

Really nice work! I'm printing a number different designs with my 3D printers. Clocks are fun to build and people like them.

[@wdumas311]

Great looking clock! Are you using washers on the ends of the brass spacer tubes?

[@rayjohnson4395]

I use my wood lathe to drill my dowels, I also use Vcarve pro with my cnc do you know if my software will allow me to import the file. I have to recreate each piece with software there fore need all sizes specifications. How does fusion do it.

[@manuelgamboa9632]

Disculpa entre ala pagina donde venden los planos tienen presio pero es en dolares?

[@randyfolsom]

Thank for the fine video. Your clock looks great. Did you have any issues with milling gear teeth? I am using Fusion 360 and a millright mega v CNC. The teeth on larger gears are fine, but on smaller gears the teeth sometimes lean over to one side. Guessing that it has something do with gcode arcs. Hoping you can share some guidance on design or CAM setup to avoid wonky curves. I am sure it is not the CNC itself. I have spent hours tramming, aligning, adding reinforcements, etc. thanks in advance for any insights.

[@richardevans6891]

Hi Randy. Thanks for watching. I also use Fusion 360 for tool paths. I did not have problems with small gears once I got all the vectors closed in Clayton's dxf file. Here are the hi-lights of my typical tool path recipe for a pinion gear. I used a 1/8" end mill with a speed of 20,000 rpm and a feed rate of 40 ipm for all paths. The material was Finnish-plywood from Woodcraft. First the central hole was cut in two passes (a roughing pass and a finishing pass). The roughing pass was a 2D Pocket cut with Multiple Depths set at .12" per pass; Radial Stock to Leave set at .02" ; Ramp was set to "plunge". The finishing pass was also a 2D Pocket with Multiple Depths turned off, and Stock to Leave turned off. Next the outer contour was also cut in two passes. The roughing pass was a 2D Contour cut with Bottom Height set to .04" above stock bottom; Multiple Depths set at .12" per pass; Radial Stock to Leave set at .02". After this pass, the .04" that remains at the bottom of the cut, holds the part firmly in place. The finishing pass was also a 2D Contour with a Bottom Height of -.03 below stock bottom; 4 tabs were placed in the tool path to hold the part; Multiple Depths turned off; and Stock to Leave turned off. The two path rough/finish strategy was motivated to keep inaccuracies caused by tool deflection to a minimum. Because the same tool is used for all passes, they were all posted to one single tool path program file. Good luck. I will be curious to hear how it goes.

[@randyfolsom]

@@richardevans6891 thank you for the tool path details. I am a newbie with both Fusion 360 and CNC so your info is really helpful. My problems were indeed caused by tool flex and using your guidance I have all but eliminated the wonkiness. I am building Brian Law’s Compact 24 Hour clock. The smallest gear is 5/8” OD so I am having to use a 1/16 downcut end mill. I thought I had done enough already to address flex, but apparently not. I might still have some backlash as even after four final passes I can still hear the occasional bit of wood being cut. I am using everything to keep the piece from moving including masking tape with CA, tabs, leaving a thin layer and hold down clamps. I am cutting the gears from 6mm Baltic Birch I bought 20 years ago. I prepare it with a coating of epoxy to minimize tear out. Thanks again for your help.

[@hs_illustrator8832]

Hi, Evans! How heavy is the weight you used? Thank you.

[@rappid-rabbit]

The best way to make a hole down the centre of a dowel, is to spin the dowel and have the drill bit stationary, a lathe is best for this but I have done it in various other ways as well...

[@nitrojunkie22]

One more question….I went to the Boyer website to look at the dimensions. It says the overall height is like 17 5/8 inches. Does that include the top and bottom planks? I ask because my CNC has a work area of only 17 1/2 inches

[@richardevans6891]

Nitro, That dimension does apparently include the top and bottom plank thickness. The length of the front and back frame parts alone is 16.87". When I measure from top to bottom of finished project including the top and bottom planks I get 17.87".

[@nitrojunkie22]

That’s good. I didn’t want to pay for the files, then find out my Shapeoko wasn’t big enough lol

[@nitrojunkie22]

Where do you buy the steel pins, brass bushings, and such?

[@richardevans6891]

Hello Nitro, I buy the brass tubes and stainless rods on Amazon.com. All this stuff is really available there. Thanks for watching.

[@nitrojunkie22]

@@richardevans6891 I guess what I meant to ask was, in the instructions, does it give the diameters and such so I know WHAT to buy? You can get literally ANYTHING on Amazon, so I figured that was where lol.

[@richardevans6891]

@@nitrojunkie22 The instruction from Clayton include a "materials list" that provide diameters, other dimensions and quantities of everything needed for the project. BTW I got the Baltic plywood from Woodcraft via mail order.

[@nitrojunkie22]

Excellent! Good to know. I’m thinking of making a clock as a wedding present, so good info. Thank you.

[@charlesmahrt6619]

Did you have to sand the gear teeth after cutting with the CNC router?

[@richardevans6891]

Hello Charles, The CNC makes near perfectly shaped parts, but I used 220 sand paper to remove any fuzz left by the CNC. The holding tabs were removed with a sharp chisel followed by some sanding. Thanks for watching.

[@8675steve]

Love it!

[@maxdobres5193]

Beautiful build. I am relatively new to this and having some difficulty making sense of Clayton’s DFX file in Fusion 360. I have got the measurements set to inches and the file loaded ok but it’s a real mess. Are there are resources you can point me to on how to fix the file? Thanks

[@richardevans6891]

Hi Max. My memory is getting fuzzy, but I do remember that quite a lot of work was required to get the dxf files in proper shape for use in Fusion 360. As you may have already figured out, the problem is that upon import, many shapes that should be closed polygons are actually open. The repair work is done in sketches in Fusion. Many of the corrections involved selecting two points that should be co-incident, and then applying the coincident constraint to close the polygon. This can be very tedious especially for the gear teeth. In the case of gear teeth, I found is easier and quicker to just fix one tooth and when use the sketch "circular pattern" tool to just redraw the entire gear perimeter. There may be an easier way, but I could not find it. Some google-ing on "closing open polygons in fusion" might turn up a better solution.

[@MrVndrpttn]

The gap fill add in for fusion works great for filling the gaps in the .def files. The file is available in the fusion store and there is a nominal fee $10 to purchase it.

[@gianpietrovairo3557]

Stupendo!

[@stavlee1]

Beautiful clock indeed. How accurate is it?

[@richardevans6891]

The clock has been very accurate. The timing speed is easily adjusted by raising or lowering the bob on the pendulum with a screw adjustor. Once dialed in, I rarely need to adjust mine. A key is being in an environment of consistent humidity.

[@harisnattukal]

If the wooden Block is Rectangle or Square, Then make two diagonal lines crossing each then the cross will be the centre.

[@augustopereyra4224]

Excelente!!!!👍

[@ciro1449]

Dove si compra. Grazie

[@richardevans6891]

L'orologio è stato progettato da Clayton Boyer. Lo chiama Orologio Numero Sei. Il design è disponibile sul suo sito web: www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite Grazie per la visione.

[@dogdipstick]

Hole in a dowel? Lathe.

[@danhopkins4731]

Why hide glue?

[@richardevans6891]

Hide glue was used because its longer open-time would allow plenty of time to make adjustments to the 12 joints in the clock face to get them tight and circular. I was afraid regular yellow type glue would set up too quickly. Thanks for watching.

[@mheermance]

Nice clock. You are a wiz with that CNC. It's too bad the pendulum covers part of the 6 though.

[@richardevans6891]

Hey Martin. Thanks for watching. I have gotten used to the hidden 6. There is a design option to put the pendulum and its hanger on the rear of the clock to avoid the interference with the 6, but I elected to keep it up front as I enjoy being able to see it swing.

[@ScottRedstone]

Metal lathe.

[@oscarvicentegutierrez3249]

TIENES QUE SER MÁS ARTESANAL, NO TANTAS MÁQUINAS.

[@hswing11]

NO SKILL NEEDED JUST PATIENTS