WORST Foam Damage I've Seen! - Brass Restoration Guide

Hello all! I was challenged recently to do a restoration on a brass engine with severe foam damage. In this How To video I show tips on how I go about doing this kind of repair, and what to expect along the way. In this video I restore an HO brass steam locomotive, specifically a Red Ball Brass PRR Pennsylvania B6sb 0-6-0 engine. I think it turned out great! Enjoy!

[@plunkervillerr1529]

Marx guy here, a little soap and water and you`re golden. No mess, No stress.

[@trainman440]

Hello, I've tried soap and water before. and a toothbrush. That's what I did to clean off the loose foam, but it didnt make a dent in the green corrosion.

[@rln970]

As a person with COPD, I strongly suggest you use a good filter ask when dealing with anything like that foam

[@trainman440]

I 100% agree. in hindsight, I definitely should have worn something more than a cloth mask which I had laying around. N95 or higher.

[@hexxoid9263]

Is there any chance you would do a tutorial on painting lacquered brass models at some point? I recently acquired a Key Brass New Haven J-1 and would like to paint it at some point, but don't want to rush and have it turn out poorly... I saw a couple of your painted engines in your collection video a while back and they look great.

[@trainman440]

Not yet, I've done a few paint jobs yet but I dont feel comfortable sharing a guide on it quite yet since I havent done enough :/ I want to become an expert before sharing my thoughts on a field. (unlike the dozens of videos on yt of ppl showing "how to" guides when they barely seem to know what theyre doing haha)

[@ThundercatDarklion]

Awesome!!!! I saw at the St. Louis area and Naperville IL. Prototype meets an company that restores brass models.

[@trainman440]

ooo that's very cool!

[@parts323]

Nice cleaning job. It does not look like a bad locomotive.

[@trainman440]

Thanks! Red Ball did a great job on their B6sbs :)

[@andrewdowns3403]

get your self a dust mask , and some fiber glass brushes ( the ones that work like push out pens ) well done with the challenge

[@trainman440]

Good suggestion! That would work too! I just was using what I had on hand.

[@joshuacampbell9990]

It cleaned up very nice. I feel this has been the doom of many brass models throughout the years. They were bought, owner either was scared to mess up painting their new acquisition and it languished in the box forgotten or too many projects were ahead of it and forgotten. It’s a shame but it happens.

[@trainman440]

Yea, real shame. So many older models are wasting away in their original box, in some attic. That's why I dont believe in buying models just to collect/display/store. I like to run all my stuff :)

[@joshuacampbell9990]

I completely agree! I don’t own anything that I’m afraid to run. To me there isn’t a point if all it’s going to do is sit on a shelf or in the original box.

[@alanpope179]

Not only does the foam deteriorate if the box is stored in a hot environment the foam literally melts into the clear coat! My experience I use Acetone and finish with a paste of Ajax and Barkeepers Friend...nice work!

[@kbwarriors]

Hello, love the vids. I was wondering if you had seen the new BLI club conductors club and if you had any opinions on it. Also im lookng to ourchase my first BLI locomotive and was wondering if new Paragon 4 engines are worth it.

[@trainman440]

I dont like the premise of PAYING for a subscription just for the privilege of PAYING for a model. I dont agree with their business choices but alas my opinion doesnt really matter lol.

[@mobius8002]

Use a product to clean the verdigris off ...like brasso or any abrasive cream polish .never use a coarse wire brush .it will mark the metal and could damage the details such as rivets and panel lines.

[@trainman440]

The metal brush is basically like fine grit sandpaper on the brass and wont damage details unless you scrub the sh!t out of it (which if you are, youre probably doing something wrong). I do agree though, some sort of brass polishing compound could be a better option if you happened to have some on hand!

[@mph20000]

Have you ever tried an automotive rubbing compound/ cutting polish?

[@trainman440]

it would achieve a similar effect. Its also an abrasive, and a much weaker one that wouldnt have gotten the job done. I have some polishing compound which did absolutely nothing.

[@bernadettegarbers9552]

Would it be possible to take an air compressor wheth an nozzle on the end of the are hose do any good for it....

[@trainman440]

spraying it with compressed air doesnt do anything. It is completely stuck to the brass.

[@2nd66tube2]

White vinegar would remove the corrosion without the need to use an abrasive

[@trainman440]

White vinegar removes tarnish but not corrosion. I know because I tried on this engine (soaked part of it for an afternoon) with negligible difference.

[@2nd66tube2]

@@trainman440 it will remove the green tranish we use it on brass/copper slot car parts all the time

[@robertcornelius3514]

I just had a loco delivered with this problem. I immediately removed all of the bad foam, and then I wrapped the loco in soft tissue paper.

[@trainman440]

Sounds like you saved it before it started corroding. Good stuff!

[@w.rustylane5650]

That foam is in terrible shape. Unless you seal it with white glue (PVA) all foam will eventually disintegrate, deteriorate or whatever you may want to call it, but it's not good. I never use foam unless it is sealed from the atmosphere. Nice brass engine though. I got my first brass engine for Christmas, a Hallmark Fairbanks-Morse H12-44 in the Central of Georgia livery, the fallen flag road that I model. I'd love to get my hands on a brass steam engine and hopefully that will be in the near future. Just wonder about painting brass though. The biggest improvement you can make to that open frame (Pittman) motor is to change the magnet and use neodymium (rare earth) magnets and it will make a HUGE difference with current draw and performance. I did that to all my Pittman motors and now they will "creep" along the tracks. I'd save that crumbling foam, add some acrylic paint color to it and use it for ground scatter. I seem to never throw any thing away. Cheers from eastern TN

[@trainman440]

Thanks, I dont think Ill be keeping this engine for long, but if I were, Id be replacing the motor with a can motor, and gearbox with NWSL. Then doing a proper paint job. Pittmans with new magnets is certainly an upgrade but it still doesn't compare with a proper can motor, since the poles are not skewed, and the distance between the magnet and windings is still seperated by the open fram design. That's what I normally do for nearly all my brass locos. Cheers!

[@w.rustylane5650]

@@trainman440 Just wondering if you've ever tried the magnet change and see the difference in performance. I'll stick with my Pittman motors with neodymium magnets. If you do DCC, the Pittman motors will creep at DCC speed notch 1. Cheers

[@trainman440]

@@w.rustylane5650 I have, the magnets improve the performance of old pittmans greatly. But i still stand by my original comment. A pittman with upgraded magnets still doesnt beat a can motor, and is often even more work. Hence why I end up usually just replacing the motors with cans all together. Cheaper, more efficient, and easier.

[@ArtofModeling]

Sir do you have a Ultrasonic Cleaner ??!!

[@trainman440]

Nope. And the majority of modelers dont. This video is to show had the average person with common tools could do such a restoration. Not to tell people "hey you can ONLY restore this if you invest in $$$ tools".

[@vzjtothalo1]

​​@@trainman440w ultrasonic cleaner is not what it's cracked up to be when it comes to brass models, as the vibration tends to weaken or undo any solder joints

[@trainman440]

@@vzjtothalo1 Yes, that too!

[@danielbackley9301]

I would recommend that you use a facemask when doing this that dust is not good for you . Also that green corrosion is actually a bacteria that prevents a more serious form of metal corrosion . That is why copper roofs and gutters turn green after several years and why they are left that way. Either way use a mask as well as ventilation trust me breathing problems aren't something you want to have.

[@trainman440]

I agree, I was working in a well ventilated area. If I had a mask I would have worn it too but didnt have one nearby at the time. And thats interesting. I always had considered the green from copper to be natural oxidation/corrosion and not caused by bacteria.

[@jamesfitch6431]

You could use that as ground foam for the scenery on the layout. Color it green dru it out and bam...

[@trainman440]

I wouldnt recommend it. its as fine as dust and using it on the layout would negatively impact your lungs. unlike modern scenery material which is made of stuff which shouldnt disintegrate into dust.

[@paulmishler402]

Alright now you have to paint it pink

[@trainman440]

D:

[@peterforden5917]

whats wrong with an Ultrasonic cleaner? And a hair dryer?

[@trainman440]

An ultrasonic cleaner might work too. I never said dont use an ultrasonic cleaner. I simply dont have one so Im not sure how useful it would be. The point of the video is show how the average person with common hand tools can restore a model. Cheers!

[@Maelli535]

Lost a whole 9-CD set (Dvořák) to foam damage - your loco looks to be in the same state!

[@trainman440]

Anything can be saved! Did you throw it out? If not, Id try my technique to see if you could restore it.

[@abbush2921]

Cellulose fibre ...Ahhhhhhh.!

[@trainman440]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

[@michaelquinones-lx6ks]

That rotted foam can be reused for scenery material.

[@trainman440]

I wouldnt recommend it. its as fine as dust and using it on the layout would negatively impact your lungs. unlike modern scenery material which is made of stuff which shouldnt disintegrate into dust.

[@michaelquinones-lx6ks]

@@trainman440 Okay my bad, Also, Thank you for answering my reply.