Yamaha RMAX 1000 and X2/X4 secondary sheave service.

[@MassiveOverkill]

I looked up the specs for the Harbor Freight electric impact wrench and it maxes out at 230 ft-lbs, so it's not going to over-torque your primary and it's probably not going to over torque your secondary either so long as you're cautious with it when using it on the RMAX.

[@justinirwin7881]

Now this is the video I been looking for! Good stuff. Would have been nice to see disassembly but I am satisfied with what I have seen

[@ricklad129]

Thanks for taking the time to make this video and the explanations on replacing parts .

[@ricklad129]

Thanks for the video on how to service the secondary clutch.

[@MichaelJHathaway]

Those are Generation 1 sliders. Gen 2 sliders are much stronger and I have increased modulus tensile strength to 820,000 psi. I wish it were just easy as printing, but without all the post processing, they would just fall apart. They get heat treated and cryo stress relieved before the hammer coating.

[@lasiuyz250x7]

Thank you for your videos . We'll done and explained

[@johnc7406]

Put the transmission in gear and the secondary sheave will be easier to align the splines.

[@wedigsrus]

Great video. Do you recommend replacing the seals and O-rings ? May I suggest while your in their scotch-brite your sheaves to clean up where the belt runs. Then wipe down with Acetone. What are your thoughts of adding frog skin type material to the clutch in-take to reduce dust getting into the clutch ?

[@MassiveOverkill]

I recommend replacing them every time when using stock grease and when switching over to Tinkseal. Once you have virgin seals/o-rings treated with Tinkseal you'll find they last much longer. I've reused seals but replace the o-rings despite that the ones treated with Tinkseal still looked new. I can see using scotch brite if the sheave faces are in rough condition or contaminated, but I've never had this issue and go fairly easy if I replace the belt while I'm in there. The problem with using frog skin is that it limits airflow and heat is much more detrimental to everything in the CVT than dust is.

[@wedigsrus]

Thanks@@MassiveOverkill I am getting close to pulling the trigger on a 2022 Rmax 4 LE. Been doing research for a couple years now and really appreciate your opninion.

[@shawngrant1757]

Thanks for taking the time to show this. How often do you service the sheave and its components?

[@MassiveOverkill]

Yamaha specifies 1600 miles. I would probably do it at 1400. Once you service with Tinkseal then I've been able to go 3000 miles before having to reservice and this video was done with 2000 miles and only did the service early because I had to see how the new cam plate sliders were holding up.

[@craigr6763]

You think that spring cup could be the drive noise some people are hearing at 30 mph? I have checked all your suggested heat shields and can’t seem to pin point the noise when I removed spider cage around primary the 27mm nut had some galling on it, I filed it smooth and still have the noise Any ideas

[@MassiveOverkill]

Hey Craig, definitely not the spring cup. Primary retaining nut gouging the bearing support seal retainer is a sign of tightening the primary nut with the belt installed and the belt preventing proper tightening of the primary nut. I'm at a loss at this point as I've removed my complete bed and everything underneath to pinpoint it..........sure it goes away, but reinstalling everything brings it back.

[@craigr6763]

I only have 400 miles on mine I have taken it back to dealer twice, I was told engineers know about it and it’s just a noise. I just hate noises like that, drives me crazy

[@brianqually2212]

Can you include a link for the seal remover tool please 👍

[@MassiveOverkill]

I added links to the description as well as on Wolverine Forums but here they are for your convenience: www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/133643 www.wellerracing.com/Clutch-Compression-Tool-by-EPI-Performance_p_4195.html

[@brianqually2212]

@@MassiveOverkill thanks for all your helpful videos and information. Very appreciated!

[@tylerzimmerman7120]

Do you have a video on service on the primary? Do you have to remove the inner sheave on primary for service?

[@MassiveOverkill]

Hi Tyler, I run greaseless and only used Tinkseal once in my primary for testing purposes so I've never done a Primary Sheave service video, plus there are enough of them out there already. You don't have to remove the inner/fixed sheave, but it simply slides off once you have the Primary Sliding and belt off, so you may as well slide the fixed sheave off and clean it while you're in there.

[@tylerzimmerman7120]

@@MassiveOverkill ok thanks, I’m about due for 1600 mile, I didn’t know if you had to do both or just secondary?

[@MassiveOverkill]

@@tylerzimmerman7120 you have to service both but unlike previous generations where many owners ignored servicing the secondary and concentrated on the primary, with the X2/X4/RMAX, the secondary sheaves require more attention.

[@bertmoore817]

Do you work for Black hills power sports?

[@MassiveOverkill]

No, but they're my dealer so I support them.

[@bertmoore817]

@@MassiveOverkill So will I pick up my Rmax on Wednesday

[@dwightrhodes2051]

You need to get some cheap disposable gloves. Rip em off. Throw them away. Put a new set on. Super easy and efficient. I get cheap ones by the case. I go through a lot on jobs like that.

[@MassiveOverkill]

LOL, I would go through 20 sets or more doing a service.

[@danharris5873]

Screw cvt!