You Are WRONG About Anti Roll Bars! Invisible Speed Course Sample.

[@SoloRenegade]

I've known of anti roll bars for many years. when I was young my dad always taught me to focus more on suspension and setup than pure power in racing. but this is the most concise and detailed explanation I've ever seen anyone give before. lots of people don't understand it because there are few good explanations of it out there.

[@MikeJonesRacing4420]

Thank you for the time you put into this series! You are one of the few that understand it well enough to teach it to others!! Great work

[@daBONDi]

The course is awesome, watched all of it, totaly worth the money many times, go and get it if you are racing. For me it was i finaly understand why i made that change not because of previous expirience, but because of knowledge. Last race was for me like drive 1 tank, completly changed car in 1 go with my new knowledge and it drives nearly perfect, and then i made only minor changes trough the day. Get it it will change your rc racing life for sure.

[@110alpine6]

The book just arrived at my door a few days ago and I happened to read this section yesterday, and a video just pop up. What a day.

[@gihonda127]

I know this is an older video, but it took me 2 hours to get through 38 minutes of video. I was pausing, note taking, looking at my Typhon 6s, then back to the video. Very thorough video, thanks for taking the time to explain this for us all. The Typhon 6s BLX comes with 2.4 front, 2.7mm rear.

[@Shellbackrc]

JQ you must've read my mind on this topic I was just wondering for the past week about which way I needed to go on changing my antiroll bars thank you for dropping this video just in time!

[@kwikNvaracing]

JQ got us all up in here taking notes! 😆

[@MAKAWELI187]

Every time i consider starting racing, i realize how difficult the art of racing is. The knowledge behind the technical know how, makes my brain have melt down. So much knowledge here .. nice video as always bro.

[@MarkoMelko]

Just what I need, I've been having trouble getting my four wheel car working (overstreering on astro like crazy) and this video was like a punch in the eye, thanks a lot!

[@pbednar]

I'm not even racing, I just love bashing but your explanation is really interesting and understandable

[@user-hr3qx7xi2s]

Best videos on KZbin for the RC racer in mind.

[@jebutler3]

Love all of your videos. I have been racing for years, and I’m learning so much more about tuning overall with them.

[@jackdurden466]

Wow, I’ve finally found someone who not only gives great advice, but also goes to all the trouble of fully explaining why, and what does what do you truly can think for yourself instead of just making quick decisions. This definitely is the best R/C channel I’ve come across yet. And I’ve already subbed, and hope to make my way through the library of old videos! Thanks so much for putting in your time and experience for our benefit. I’ve always been a monster truck guy, but recently got my hands on a very decent buggy, with great options for set up and can be adjusted with the best of them. It helps me so much! Again, thanks for the information, it shall go to good use! 👍👍👍👍👍🍾🍾+🏆🏆= 😀 Maybe? Lol!

[@joelsoler3373]

JQ you are a tuning genius....seriously brother....your content is serious for understanding and very interesting and super technical!👍

[@kevinjensen2487]

You make the best and most in depth videos in the industry. Keep it up man, you are greatly appreciated 👍

[@invisiblespeedrc]

The only way for me to keep it up is for enough people to buy the courses.invisiblespeed.net online course

[@kevinwills489]

Excellent. Your videos are the best learning tool. I now understand the role of anti roll bars in conjunction with each other.

[@Tommyp360]

Thank you for your videos. I find your videos very helpful. You have really broken down the physics.

[@krishall268]

Danm man, happy I found your channel, keep up this top quality work, figuring this stuff out must have given you a headache

[@XENOEFFECT]

You've solved all my problems thank you for all your hard work

[@bennettironman]

Massive thankyou from a newbie racer looking to improve and get my buggy set up ….

[@tayarbesar214]

i just finished a 30min video and wrote a full details of roll bar on my book at 5am in my room :D thank you for your explaination, i will visit this video again. and yeah, subscribed

[@jacinthalasz7082]

Thanks for this video! You help a lot understanding how to adjust your car. I hope the Mayako project will be sucessfull!

[@lawrencewinter]

Amazing intel. Thanks Jq. I'm using this for touring cars. Much of it is the same

[@brianlackie5093]

I'm applying some of your techniques to off road carpet racing and it seems to be working. Fast lap times for stock 17.5 blinky class is mid 17's and because of your videos I'm running low 18's and breaking onto high 17 second lap times . I feel like I'm finally catching up to the faster guys

[@stephenjones1270]

I’ve finally gotten a new video to watch yes

[@invisiblespeedrc]

You need to get the course!

[@stephenjones1270]

@@invisiblespeedrc saving up the money

[@GioRCchannel]

Ran into your channel and have been watching them. Thank you for all your time and great knowledge. Time to keep watching more of them 👍🏻

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Time to get the course!

[@cesararaujo3300]

Best R/C videos I've ever seen, period.

[@ragsixracing]

lol i wasnt wrong. i used to debate with my friends at the track. they claimed thicker roll bars increased traction. i would counter that thicker bars decreased traction. i knew i was right haha. thicker bars do increase traction on the opposite end of the chassis, and no one believed me ...

[@SgtSuissie]

no it doesn't what are you saying

[@stevejenkins6045]

Thank you Sir. The best video on the subject I have ever seen.

[@DJSpannamanUK]

I am only half way through. Just past the three wheel photo part. At this point i was thinking about "droop" All well and good adjusting roll bars but if thats on its maximum droop then this wont solve it. ;) Great video so far. I frequently video my cars in slow mo after various adjustments to see what the car is doing! Sometimes having to drill more holes in my shock pistons ect just keep the wheels on the ground on a light car or cheap shocks for e.g.

[@davidw5504]

Fantastic video, very educational and easy to understand. Thanks brotha, keep up the good work! You're really helping new racers like me :)

[@luissola6633]

Grat video JQ, surprised you didn't touch on the effect of softer or harder sway bars vs shock angles Keep up the great work

[@A.Riera83]

Thank you so much to show us this theorycraft. Im new in this world, ill be watching more videos ab you. Cheers!

[@jastheacenz]

Wow great vid ,I got a lot out of it . Cheers from New Zealand

[@mikeraya1748]

very interesting, more about not copying pro pilots setups, but even better to try what is exposed here !! Thank you!! JQ!!

[@eb4rob]

Awesome video, very clear and informative, with evidence and images to show theory! a great series and a great course.

[@manuelbarranco7214]

Thanks for the 📹, very educational and interesting!!! I like specially the final comment saying something like try yourself and don't copy the best drivers because they have special requirements, search to be confident and safety with your driving. Great tip!!

[@bashmyracer784]

NICE VIDEO !! Love it ! Coll to see the different setup works !

[@MrVek7]

amazing thanks for your time 👍

[@brandonbentley5453]

Awesome tutorial. My favorite so far. So many thanks. One thing to add is checking your roll bar for flatness. It's common to bend you roll bars making your buggy handle different left right and vise versa. Again thank you for this video.

[@Super997turbo]

This is the most comprehensive breakdown and analysis with step by step explanation. Thank you for your hard work and time sharing this insight and knowledge. Keep up the amazing work its inspiring.

[@pauloee9]

Top quality informations, thank you for sharing!

[@michaelcronwright2057]

Great video mate it’s a complex topic roll bars as well as roll centre. With the help of your book and videos I’m getting it :)

[@Hankster360]

Thanks you thank you always JQ.

[@keithbates8482]

Perfect video, well explained 👏 👌

[@kevinharris2614]

Very helpful, thank you

[@sendit2873]

thank you for taking the time to make these videos it will greatly help me for sure and others that follow this it may be hard for a newbie but they will learn over time

[@357armen]

Totally agree with your first poin. I often say the same thing about guitar I grew up in the 90s when you had to get tablets your books and Rewind your cassette tape a million times to learn a solo nowadays you just pop on KZbin and you can learn so much more in the same time I think a working guitarist could definitely have been in a massive Advantage if he can have the technology of today and KZbin excetera while we going up against guys pre-internet era. Injured track racing they say if your car is hooking up good that left front tire should barely be off the ground about 50% of the corner.

[@user-nf9gs8ep1s]

😊 I appreciate your knowledge and wisdom that you share with us. I’m hoping just to know my car as well as I can the results will come out in the heat once again I think you for your time and I appreciate what you’ve done.

[@brianlackie5093]

I been watching your video and I'm trying to understand. Most advices is basic layman stuff I already know. Been watching your videos and trying to understand . Not sure if I get it but my lap times have improved. I'm not as fast as I want to be but I'm a lot faster than I was. My car feels like it's in the track. If I make a mistake and flip over my car always seems to land on its Wheels. It feels like it's in the track now, my lap times have improved my consistency has improved

[@jasonburks272]

So appreciative for you posting and covering this topic. Especially targeting the majority of drivers skill levels who want to learn and better understand what changes do for our cars. Keep it up and I look forward to your future videos. Thank you!

[@SimonWorlds]

A good driver, at least in real race cars is that a harder rear end allows for a pointier front turn in, but you need to pick up the throttle gently on exit as the rear will be taily. If you dial in more rear toe in, you can help mitigate the rear end sway bar stiffness and sort of have your cake and eat it too. This is not an amateur set up IMO, but you can be very quick on a tarmac course if you learn to drive it with finesse and patience. Having this setup also needs a more gentler approach to trail braking into a corner as the back can come around. A more front biased brake adjustment is def a good safety margin to start with and can set it rearward slowly from there. I know this is off point from your video, but I race in 1:1 cars as well as instruct, setup race cars etc. I think you are def on point here and I have raced 1:8th buggy's many years ago. I wish I knew what I know now back then.............lol. Great video, thanks.

[@mrvegemite5014]

Great info champ . 🏆

[@Douger318]

great tips thank you for the time

[@overlandready]

Spinning out is NOT oversteer, it is skidding. This is a really important thing in understanding grip and making things go faster, Under Steer is a geometry fundamental of design, not a loss of traction. The vehicle sliding with grip is slip angle, the vehicle sliding without grip is a skid. The skid can be used as an advantage if managed, ie a wheel spins and the vehicle "drifts" this is still a skid, a useful one if done right, but still a skid. It is about the coefficiency of traction, so the basics are simple. Under and over steer are fundamentals of design and measurable and predictable by the design geometry, tested at low speed with traction on all wheels. The understeer vehicle is likely to be an Anti-Akermann design as it pushes the outer tyre to roll over. At speed with traction you get slip angle which is essentially the tyre deforming and creating grip through friction, this is NOT under steer, but can be controlled with the driver over steering (user input rather than design fundamentals). Anti-Akermann design works well to give a higher slip angle grip with higher load on the outer front wheel. What happens here is the tyre is loaded and grip is maximised so the car turns tighter than the fundamental design predicts (good for high speed, not so good for low speed). You want traction to be maximised so once the vehicle goes into a skid you need to slow the vehicle down. The anti roll bar simply transfers some weight to the inside wheel, as it is a torque bar (not a spring, it doesn't deform laterally as a spring does, it twists) Putting more or less equalisation to the inner wheel allows the grip to be maximised on various surfaces. You description of what the anti roll bar (ARB) does is totally wrong in best practice of explanation (although correct, it's harder to understand that explaining it is real terms of actual actions). This is what happens: As load is applied to the outer wheel, the anti roll bar is pushed up (it's not trying to push down on the outer side) This results as the torque bar (ARB) then tries to push the inside wheel UP, This results in compression of the inner suspension so body roll is reduced. Now as forces are equal and opposite, the bar transfers weight to the inner wheel, the suspension as both have an certain equal uploading means the suspension doesn't actually compress past a certain point, ergo less body roll (You method of explanation assumes body roll is actually unchanged which it will not be, the body will be flatter as the weight is transferred to the inner wheel). Why ARB torque strength is important is that when you get a wide load varience on the axle you lose grip over the two tyres as per you load/grip chart showing AA as equal weight, and BC as cornering loads. What the ARB does is limit the difference in the potential in loads so the A and B loads are closer and thus BC rises on the chart = more cornering grip/traction and a better coefficient of traction. This in turn reduces the possibility of skidding. It will also change the slip angle properties which means that traction can still be maintaind at a higher speed. This does not in any way change the under or over steer properties of the steering and suspension geometry, as said, any thing past the geometric properties and slip angle is just plain and simple skidding. What you need to do is explain starting with no ARB's and then put the differences as you increase the stiffness of the bar. Your diagram 10mins is where you say put a stronger ARB on is showing a softer ARB (red circles) as it's allowing less load to be transferred not more, remember the bar is a torque bar, it's designed to resist twist in itself and thus the action of the outer wheel will be attemted to be mirrorred on the inner wheel, not the opposite of, so when the outer wheel is forced up, the inner wheel is also forced up by the ARB. As one spring is not able to compress the other spring the load differntial is relieved, the suspension does not drop as far because the outer wheel has less load on it, the inner wheel has more load on it so the spring compression is greater than no ARB. I have specifically avoided springs and their attributes as it's not part of this ARB reasoning. I hope this benefits both your watchers. it is however unfortunate that you've fell into the misnomer that a skid is under steer when it is in fact a definite loss of traction. Other than the wrong ARB statement it's a prety good video.

[@invisiblespeedrc]

You have applied what I like to call magical thinking. Roll the body of the car to the side without a roll bar, and you can see how the outside suspension is compressed, and inside is extended. Do the same thing with an anti roll bar installed, and you can see how the bar stops the body from rolling as far. As the anti roll bar is engaged, it twists, by definition each end of the bar need to be acting on the bar in different directions, or it would be of no use. If both ends were acting in the same direction, the bar would not twist and do anything. So as the body rolls towards the outside, the outside end is pushing down on the arm, as the arm itself is moving up as the suspension compresses. The bar is trying to keep the body upright, as it is rolling onto it, pushing on the arm, as the suspension compresses, aiding the shock spring which also resists suspension compression. Since the suspension does compress, and we know that the inside suspension wants to extend as the car rolls, we understand that the bar is moving up, wanting to compress the suspension, and the rolling movement of the body, and shock spring want to cause the suspension to extend. So the bar is resisting the downward movement of the inside arm, which means it is lifting it. If the entire suspension moves down, as roll is being resisted, it does not change the direction of the load, the anti roll bar is adding load to the outside tire and reducing it off the inside tire.

[@overlandready]

@@invisiblespeedrc You need to rethink physics here. An ARB is a torque bar, so what one end is being acted upon the other end HAS to try to do the same, (if it did the opposite as you suggest then it would indeed be magic and utterly useless to keep the car on the road, it would however flip the car on high degree turns as would increase body roll!) Here is a simple test for you. Take a vehicle, any vehicle but an RC car is easier to handle. Do not fit an ARB on it, then lift the car so all wheels are off the ground. Push one wheel on an axle up, compressing the suspension (replicating a corner/load force) the opposite wheel does nothing. So there is no force acting on the other wheel in either direction. Now fit a soft ARB, do the same test, If what you are saying is true, the ARB will try to push the opposite wheel down (if at full droop will aid the opposite spring), it doesn't, it tries to comress the suspension on the opposite wheel. Now put the siffest ARB on that you have, do the test again. This will push the opposite wheel that you are not applying any physical force to up more than the soft ARB. The consensus of this fact is that the ARB is trying to not deform but to keep form. As the bar is a torque bar, it will twist when a certain torque is applied but at all times will try to revert back to the original level/equal. This obviously pushes the opposite suspension up as it is trying to revert back to original shape. You can actually perform the same tests with no springs and the lift of the opposite wheel is going to be almost identical to the wheel with the force applied. The point in the ARB is to try not to deform, absolutely. However, if it didn't deform, it would keep the car body absolutely flat and you would then loose a lot of cornering ability as you end up with a 100% lateral force on the vehicle in turns, so you don't have the necessary weight transfer on the outer wheel needed for the friction necessary to have sufficient grip. Look at this in perspective of the bar, it's not floppy, it's not a spring it's a hard bar, it is designed to twist only when torque is applied to it otherwise both ends are held at equal heights to it's mounts. If you remove one end's link it will move in conjunction with the held end and it's suspension components. That means the force it applies to the free end would be in the same direction as the held end. Remember the bar is a torque bar and an addition to help keep the vehicle level. it itself does not apply any force to the more compressed suspension side but some load is transferred down the bar to the less loaded side. If both sides are compressed equally there is no torque force on the ARB and so it has no effect to the suspension's loads or travels. Also think that if the bar actuall took weight/load off the inner wheel it would encourage the vehicel to flip especially if the load transfer is fast. Why doesn't it flip the car? Because the load it transfers is from the higher load side to the lesser loaded side.

[@invisiblespeedrc]

@@overlandready the bar doesnt do anything, forces act upon it and twist it. As a car rolls in a corner the outside suspension compresses, which means that the bar moves up, and as such it tries to lift the inside suspension into compression also, correct? You agree with this based on what you wrote above. So explain to me how this action causes less load on the outside tire and more on the inside.

[@overlandready]

@@invisiblespeedrc" As a car rolls in a corner the outside suspension compresses, which means that the bar moves up, and as such it tries to lift the inside suspension into compression also, correct?": Yes this is corect. "So explain to me how this action causes less load on the outside tire and more on the inside."; This is increadibly simple, the bar is a torque bar or torsion bar (another name for it) so it resists deformation - so the forces experienced on one side are partially transferred to the other, so if you loaded one side with say 100units (could be kg for a real car or gramms for an RC car) then some of the compression force is transferred through the bar to the other suspension spring. This is because the bar is resisting deformation. This results in load transfer. If you did the tests I explained earlier, it would give a visual of the principal, you load one side and the ARB transfers load to the other shown as the other side with no load subjected to it compresses. In real terms this video albeit goes off on what happens if a link breaks is very good at showing what I mean. It does of couse show what I said when you disconnect one side so that part is good. It also shows tyre contact patches, as you'll see when the vehicle corners, the contact patches remain fairly constant with the bar and without the bar the inner gets smaller and the outer gets larger in comparison. 1.20 mins so nice and short. Enjoy. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hl7Lq6qprMZsmJY

[@invisiblespeedrc]

@@overlandready ok, so the outside tire is being loaded more, do you agree? The bar is moving up, lifting the inside tire up. Explain how that lifting force is adding load to the inside tire please.

[@jasonjanda9288]

Great stuff JQ thanks

[@rcdrive2563]

Thanks for the tips

[@josepena-jl8le]

Amazing, Thank you!!!

[@melancholymartialarts7095]

Nice work! Love your videos

[@bucknertarsney7674]

Excellent treatise. Thank you.

[@af8lbite205]

Used to be back in the day first step if the car was too tight get rid of the ARB. I used to try and talk people out of doing that, normally people wouldn’t listen.

[@jonper993]

Wow wow wow, i love all your vidéo. So much interesting and so much well done. Please keep making such great video about RC car. Then, please play a song with your guitar. My 2 passions, RC and guitar.

[@jacobito6223]

Great work.

[@SzybkiTom]

I love how you explain the weight transfer concept with a roll bar and how some of the load is actually absorbed by the spring. That helped me understand the counter-intuitive nature of it. I thought a stiffer roll bar decreases weight transfer on that end because it limits body roll. That raises another couple of questions for me. If adding roll bars reduces overall grip, why are they used at all? Is it a question of balancing the car while using as little ARB as possible? Is there any situation where you would want to increase both roll bars while keeping the balance the same?

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Because you have to limit roll somehow, because if you dont you wont be able to control the car. When grip increases you go thicker up to a point.

[@flyingscottsman2608]

Well done, I might be an outlier but Im about .5 seconds a lap faster and more consistent without roll bars. That said I play around a lot with camber link and shock position to make it work. lol (rough and dusty track)

[@lukes5533]

Great video , if you only had one sway bar would it be more affective on the front or rear of the car ? And would your choice of position change from high grip to low grip surface?

[@wilkenracingproducts5442]

Great vid, as usual :)

[@johnp.39]

Very technical and interesting ! 👍

[@johnmiller4553]

EXCELLENT INFO.. 🤙🤙🤙🤙

[@swendelaar11]

nice video it helpt me a.lot

[@bradvandenberg580]

JQ YOU DA MAN YOU AWESOME BROTHER!!!!!

[@superstock9261]

Great video man!

[@aaronsnd2]

Unfortunately this explanation is incorrect. For a given cornering force, total load transfer is fixed regardless of relative bar and spring stiffnesses. Stiffening the rear bar will cause the rear inside tire and front outside tire to transfer more load to the front inside tire and rear outside tire during cornering, therefore transferring grip to the front end via more evenly loaded front-end. Vice versa in all aspects as well. It’s as simple as that. Same exact thing occurs with relative spring stiffnesses. Same thing happens with relative damper stiffnesses but only during loading and unloading (not steady state). You cannot change how much total load transfers occurs- that is dictated by the variables shown in the prolific weight transfer equation

[@invisiblespeedrc]

You are forgetting about TIME

[@aaronsnd2]

@@invisiblespeedrc Care to explain?

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Total load transfer isn’t fixed. What you are doing when adjusting a car is changing how long it takes for load to transfer. A car has a limited time to transfer load in each section of the track. Also, a roll bar most certainly increases load transfer at the end that you install it. If you think it doesn’t I would like to hear that explanation

[@aaronsnd2]

@@invisiblespeedrc I already explained in my initial comment. It just re-distributes load among the tires such that the tire-load sensitivity favors the softer axle. This science has been fully fledged out in full-scale motorsports. Your explanation starting at 9:56 is incorrect. The rear axle should have a larger red circle at the inside tire and a smaller red circle at the outside tire. If the front increases load transfer, then the rear decreases so total remains constant. You touch on the idea and say the rear is affected slightly but no- it is equal and opposite and has nothing to do with roll. Roll has zero effect on weight transfer. For a given cornering force a softer car that rolls more does not transfer more load than a stiffer car that rolls less. Make sure that at any given moment In your analysis the load among all four tires adds up to the total weight of the car, and the percentage of total L/R load transfer is fixed for a given cornering force such as 1.5g Your statement at 11:47 is the most significant misunderstanding that if you re-evaluate will likely help you understand better. Total grip is not reduced- it is simply redistributed between axles. As someone who shares your elite enthusiasm for motorsport dynamics, I like your channel a lot and want to help you understand this topic Regarding your other note that it increases how fast load transfer occurs: yes that is correct but not relevant to the topic in question

[@invisiblespeedrc]

@@aaronsnd2 no you are incorrect and it is very easy to demonstrate how. Load transfer is not only affected by one thing, you have to break it down into monents in time, entering a corner, entry when not slowing down as heavily, rolling, beginning to accelerate, exiting, for example. All of the natural load transfer throughout those actions determine which axle is more heavily loaded. If you want to simplify, and break it down to nuts and bolts level, what the anti roll bar does is exactly what I mentioned. You can experiment yourself. Put the rear of the car on scales, roll the car with a known force without an antiroll bar, and note the reading. Then do the same with an anti roll bar. Also, the time it takes for things to happen is the majority of what we are doing when we set up a car, so I don’t understand how it can be irrelevant.

[@G14tube]

Thank You

[@douglasbeary7890]

Is it the same concept if your running a 4wd truck? Or does 4wd change the game completely?

[@charlesbonkley]

Excellent video, JQ... a well-deserved *THANK YOU* from me! *Question:* what about anti-roll bar preload, or the choking-up of the bar in the collets? What is that used for? If it's used for increasing "thickness" (tension) of the bar in use, as intermediate values, then at what point does one increase, or step up, the thickness of the bar?

[@invisiblespeedrc]

You cant move the link a lot because it will bind at the end of suspension travel.

[@jurgenpirolt5012]

Great video JQ👍

[@BarnaTeTes]

muchas garcias muy muy buen video

[@mauricejones8733]

JQ RACING DUDE YOUR THE BEST

[@BuggyBrentRC]

Awesome video ! This may help me out with my recent experience with my kyosho TKi2 on a loose track . Being that the car is setup out of the box for high grip tracks . The car felt amazing every where on the track other than it pushed really bad on slow sharp corners . It pushed initially at the corner . The rolls bars are 2.6 front and 2.8 rear . So I will try reducing both roll bars . I was afraid to change anything else on the car because it was so good that I didn’t want to go backwards . But the anti roll bars totally back sense without loosing the balance . Thanks JQ!

[@kwikNvaracing]

I feel that reducing is going in the right direction. I'm 2.3 front on my ebuggy and 2.4 nitro. Seems to really work well with 2.6 rears. However I do feels slight difference between the two. I may run the 2.3 on the nitro. I feel as tho the ebuggy isn't pushing as much like you mention.

[@BuggyBrentRC]

@@kwikNvaracing good info thank you ! I will try 2.6 rear and 2.4 front

[@rctrophychasers]

Can you make a video on how the height the roll bar is from the arm changes its effects I assume shorter distance engagement will be sooner but idk if it's a factor

[@mikelongley]

Awesome video, going to check out more and your site! In the video you mention 1/8th and bars sizes(thicker rear than front), where would you recommend starting for short corse 2nd trucks? Thicker rear bar than front like 1/8 scale? Factory front is 1.3mm and no bar rear.

[@round1017]

Are you gonna be at A1 this Saturday?

[@BoostedRex]

Great video..

[@robertmoffat7744]

Would the same rules apply to 2wd and 4wd? I'm trying to set up a Pro4 SC10 for astroturf with tight turns, very helpful video.

[@drugbaba]

Please explain me ,In case of understeer: By stiffing anti roll bar in front will have more evenly weight distribution during cornering to prevent roll , which will increase grip in front tire so why we won’t make roll bar stiff in front during under steer ???

[@heavyhydropnw]

Is it common for people to run anti toll bars on indoor clay tracks with 2wd buggies

[@rccaraddict294]

Thanks JQ

[@briancarroll6245]

Brilliant 🇮🇪

[@cbh148]

Interesting. I recently changed my Tekno NB48 2.0 sway bars from stock 2.3/2.5 (mm F/R) to 2.6/2.2 in an effort to stop a traction roll issue on a higher speed, somewhat bumpy, left sweeper on my local track. If it helped, it's not much as I still traction roll. I have a 2.8 front bar to try too and I suppose I could try running no rear bar as an experiment. Might try wider hexes. Ride height is stock and I don't want to go lower as there's a big double jump. Maybe could go lower with bump stops added to shock shafts?

[@eins2001]

Try different rate springs.

[@godsun358]

Brilliant 👏 👏 👏

[@dreja123]

Tnaks for the video :) I miss the information about mounting position. How the mounting of both ends of antirollbar affects the handling. With this I mean if there is any effect how far are the ends pushed into the pivot ball. Thanks

[@briancarroll6245]

Very good👍

[@dirtrider88]

i run 4wd offroad carpet. if i want more initial turn in (or even just more overall turning ) on power i should increase my rear anti roll bar?

[@invisiblespeedrc]

You can try, but maybe better to increase your diff oils

[@soma_rc]

Anything specific for 2wd?

[@neontetra1000]

I’m running on a very low grip dusty and loamy Sandy and extremely bumpy dirt track I have totally removed both front and rear roll bars to try to achieve more grip. Is that a good idea?

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Most likely no it's not. You need to limit roll, and you do need initial grip. Car set up is never extreme when it comes to racing around a track.

[@Ledsrule1]

Good job. BUT can you help me out. My son runs carpet only/two wheel drive team associated buggy 6.2 The buggy class here where I live is the number one class, (high compilation) four wheel drive cars have a lot of leeway because of the push /pull design So any ideas that you have for two wheel drive BUGGY would be helpful Thanks Rick

[@_Latrigg]

I'm doing an automotive engineering degree, this just popped up in my feeds, I have a question, I totally get the cornering force/load graph, and that you want the tyre loadings to be as close to the straight line forces as you can be, but then you give an example where you make the front worse, spreading the distance on the cornering force/load graph, to match the rear. Why? What benefit is balancing front to rear over side to side? As matching axles would seem the more logical thing to do to get better cornering force over all. I have tried to follow the last conversation which I think you might be both going at the same subject from different directions and he makes a lot of valid points that you just ignore and say he's not given the information when he had. He is also spot on about the over steer and under steer comment. The thing for me though is it's disconcerting that you abuse the guy once he says he has left the conversation. That normally means the abuser has not got an argument so just throws abuse. It's not the best way to promote yourself. He has given quite a good video on the difference with a roll bar and without. Do you have a link to the other site he states? Also what relevance has a Gokart got? it hasn't got suspension so the dynamics are quite different aren't they? surely the spring is a key part of things? Sorry, I know a few questions but if you can answer them, it would be really helpful. Oh, I don't know if you're aware, the guy's profile is actually a Land Rover Defender not a Jeep, I'm guessing you're also not aware that people do race them on track and off road. They also make a 400bhp version from factory.

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Im not going to waste my time again. He was demonstrably wrong, claiming that roll angle determines load transfer (it does not, that’s why a gokart is relevant) and that anti roll bars keep left to right loads more even (they do the opposite). He didn’t explain either of those claims or provide any proof. The reason the high cg offroad vehicle in his profile picture may be relevant is that it is the kind of vehicle that may flip over in a corner, and installing an anti roll bar can help to stop it from flipping over. This could lead you to falsely believe that anti roll bars reduce load transfer and that body roll is a significant contributing factor to load transfer. Balancing the speed of load transfer front to back is what setting up a car is all about. This determines how it corners. I showed that you can do so by reducing cornering grip or increasing it, both balance out the car. It is impossible to balance out ”side to side” as you write, what you want is to suitably match front to rear.

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Also, here’s an F1 engineer agreeing with me, and disagreeing with him. Why? Because I am correct. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWarfpd7eJmZqZosi=0Oxj0OOtJBZ3HHJa

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Here’s another video, confirming what I said, and disagreeing with the two of you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYrEoHedgqigqsUsi=n0go69Vahdz7gr3N

[@_Latrigg]

@@invisiblespeedrc By load I take it you are talking vertical force, not lateral force? Or are you combining them? He doesn't seem to be, but from what I'm reading he's trying to explain exactly what the F1 engineer has said. His figures although just percentages do show the same as the cornering force graph, he also doesn't bring any slip angle data in, so maybe he is trying to say what happens to the suspension rather than the tyres. As I understand Gokart dynamics, to corner faster you have to lift the inner rear wheel, so you have to put load onto the outside, To do that you have to deform the tyres, so in that instance you are rolling the body, in order to lift the rear tyre. So why do you think you don't roll the body? A Gokart's roll is as said, in tyre deformation. Oh, and the centre of gravity for a Defender is just above the chassis, about where the driver sits, so actually more stable than you are claiming, the official stats are 45 degrees in all angles. I looked it up. I guess that would suggest it's quite a stable car! I am seeing a lot of similarities in what all the people are saying so maybe it's you just you not liking being called wrong, but he did state a correct point of you contradicting yourself. I'll go find another person to ask about my queries as you don't seem to be very friendly. And to be fair, you're stating uneducated facts about a Defender suggests maybe the Overlandready guy is more correct than you'd like to admit. I think you just don't like being corrected or being called wrong.

[@invisiblespeedrc]

@@_Latrigg no he is saying the opposite. F1 engineer is saying they play with roll bars etc to stiffen roll (harder roll bar) to transfer more load and lessen grip in the corner. Exactly what I said. Also I’m talking about vertical load. Gokart does not have suspension so the body cannot roll. Its like installing an infinitely stiff rollbar.

[@DESOUSAB]

Theoretically, could a gyro be used to provide information that would help setup a vehicle to run various features in a more stable fashion? Where are the smart RC'ers...?

[@Skynet5UK]

When talking about high grip..what do people mean when they say steering is more aggressive (when using a thicker anti roll bar). Sounds like aggressive steering is not “good” steering?

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Initial response

[@samweb1981]

Great!! Thanks for this AAA quality video!! How can we send you a video from our track from Argentina to get some advice about it. (It call "speed paradise track" with a new design since 2020) Thanks in advance!

[@invisiblespeedrc]

Join the invisible speed online course!