You CAN run DC and DCC Trains on the same layout.

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[@PacificNorthwestRailfanner]

My dad and I built a switch on our layout which we hooked up to my DCC system and DC power pack. It enabled us to flip a lever to switch between DC and DCC easily without a hastle.

[@thomascanady1967]

Model Train Market is a great place to get locomotives. Keep Alives could work on the switches. SMT Mainline channel is great for the repair videos. As for the cat problem, I haven't built my layout yet and once in great while I have found my cat on the bathroom counter. I also will be looking for safe ways to keep my cat off the layout. Now for family, you are 100% correct! Family comes first!

[@MaartenOtto]

Can you run DC and DCC, yes, I do it simultaneously on the same layout. The first train passing might be DCC and the next on the same block is DC… That system is called Dynamo and it js a block based computer controlled system that can put a DCC or DC signal to a block.

[@josephmartinez8828]

Thanks for explaining

[@skerbs7755]

Thank you, Jimmy, for answering my question! Have a wonderful day!

[@pic_liam]

There is never coffee in that mug !! Great vid lol 🤣

[@Tauschung]

Thank you for answering my question Jimmy!

[@andrewpalm2103]

I have a small switching layout so I switch between DCC and DC by using Molex connectors on the single track power connection. My "DC" throttle is an SCR circuit with feedback so it has excellent slow speed control. But I would not use it with DCC locos because it isn't pure DC but instead pulses at 60 Hz. I suspect that any "DC" power pack that uses pulses for better motor control would at best confuse a DCC decoder and at worst could damage it. I'm drinking Cameron's Breakfast Blend coffee which is from Shakopee MInnesota. Cheers from Wisconsin!

[@cowsgomoo4618]

Drinking Camerons jamaican blend with coffee mate almond and oats carmel flavored creamer. You sir are an invaluable resource right now. Bought a house beginning this year and am now in the serious stages of planning a railroad and you are giving wonderful insight into the hobby. I am still stuck between more of a switching layout in HO (for the dcc and sound) and more of a train chasing layout in n scale with some switching. It's very hard choice, from the start of my interest in the hobby [in 2008] I have loved n scale, but I also love the idea of having sound.

[@TheRobertLcollins]

As far as filament printers go, I like my FlashForge Adventurer 3 Lite. The FFA3 does have a small build volume, but it's an easy machine to use. I've seen good reviews for the Kingroon KP3S, and a US company called Sliceworkx is selling a newer version of that printer. Those are priced between $175-$250, so they're affordable. The FFA3 has sold for around $400, but I got my Lite for under $300 during a holiday sale.

[@philhamsher3977]

Again, thanks so much for taking time to answer our questions.

[@gregbowen617]

Nice little video Jimmy.Cheers from Melbourne, Australia.

[@OriginalBongoliath]

Just remember that Broadway Limited only services Paragon 2 and newer locos. 2009 was right around the transition from Paragon to Paragon 2. If it is Paragon or older (Blue Line, Stealth Black Box not the new stuff coming out now, Precision Craft Models (PCM)) they will send you to another company they endorse for their repairs, TSD (links on their website), but they only do decoder and electronic replacements/repairs to newer Paragon decoders. If you want a TCS, Soundtraxx, or ESU assuming only the decoder is bad, you will have to find someone else.

[@Tauschung]

Thank you for the additional information!

[@melkitson]

That was a nice long and interesting presentation. Thank you.

[@joedelusso1415]

Great video and as a NC resident I would love to visit the little choo,choo shop as well as the NCTM across the street.Also would like to touch base on the last question that was asked about running DC and DCC,I don't know if the person knows that there are locomotives that are DCC ready,meaning that they can be run in DC mode then could be upgraded to DCC by adding a decoder..thanks for a great video..👍

[@mikemodugno5879]

I'm relatively new to the channel so maybe haven't found it yet, but I would love to see a video on how you clean your rails. This is a topic I'm still undecided on and would love to hear from other modelers. Also, a video on what to look for in a train that needs lubrication would be awesome as well.

[@atshinkansen7439]

One thing about switching between DC and DCC to be careful about is reverse loops (includes wyes and turntables). Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t believe autoreverse units are compatible with DC, so that would be something to consider if changing between the two systems. I wanted to ask: Could we see the process in how you make your train-running videos on your other channel? (How you stage trains, camera placement, etc.)

[@loispadgett6306]

Thanks for good questions and great answers. Glad you do this kind of show learn alot from them. GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖

[@philhamsher3977]

SMT is a great channel for repairs. Thanks for suggesting him.

[@4everdc302]

Jimmy. Cool shout out to Harrison. Part of our 🇨🇦Train Mafia😋

[@erichusmann5145]

My local (or at least most local) shop has a service desk. They tend to charge by the hour. On DC/DCC track: My home and club layouts both are switchable. Home layout: Kato Unitrak, with a splitter. I just picked up an extra plug for the power end, so I just swap plugs between the SPROG and a DC controller (which also doubles as a transformer for parts of the layout). Club main: There's a key switch hidden under the layout. When turned, it fires a series of relays that change the source from the DCC network to the local DC controller. Club secondary: Each of the 3 tracks has a toggle switch that switches between the DC and DCC controllers for that track. Not sure how it works.

[@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204]

goode vid thanks lee

[@OldcampRanch]

Interesting video 👍🏻

[@davidneal7172]

There is a mouse trap called “ A Better Mouse Trap “. If you set these and place them anywhere you don’t want cats or dogs , they will keep them off ! The trap is safe ! You can stick your finger in it and it will not hurt you ! When it’s tripped it , produces a loud snap !! 2 traps are about 5-6 bucks.

[@RayBoebel]

I have done a few video's on basic maintenance of loco's (HO scale). Also, Classic Model Trains is very good as well as SMT Mainline. On DCC and DC on the same layout, the newer decoders will work at DC. Im not 100% sure on the older ones. I have "backdated" 3 of mine to run DC since Im still very "Old School"

[@PaulSmith-pl7fo]

Hi Jimmy. You said running a DCC loco on a DC layout is possible. I understand that you set the decoder address to "0" to do this. *However*; UK KZbinrs (and manufacturers?) do *not* advise this as running locos this way for any length of time will ultimately cause damage to the loco/decoder. Am I missing something here? I would be very interested in seeing your own setup *in detail* for switching between DC and DCC controllers. This is because the first few locos I bought are not DCC compatible and, being N scale, are often too small to convert to DCC. Many thanks.

[@edwardaudet8367]

I would never take the chance of running a dcc train on DC. Especially if it's a used one I have found people who run strick dcc set the decoder to only run dcc. But I do run DC and dcc trains separately using a dubble pole dubble throw switch set for either DC or DCC never do I mix them.

[@OriginalBongoliath]

You have it mixed up. DCC on DC layout is fine. DC on DCC layout is not fine unless you swap controllers but even then you better have blocks to control DC power and variables. To make things easy I just avoid DC altogether and stick strictly to DCC.

[@PaulSmith-pl7fo]

@@OriginalBongoliath Sorry, I don't believe that I am mixed up. Convince me otherwise.

[@edwardaudet8367]

@@OriginalBongoliath So do you set your dcc decoder for strickly dcc or do you have the CV set to allow a dcc train to you on DC. There is a difference. Normally you can run a dcc train on DC but only when the CV that controls it is setup to run dcc on DC... I use separate power packs for DC two which were built from kits , found in model railroader, my layout was strictly DC for 26 years, and about 3 years ago I tried DCC, I use a sprog-pi one for the DCC side, I use switches between the DC And Dcc to switch the layout back and forth,. On the dcc side I switch all my blocks to the B side on the block control. It may sound a little wacky but it works well. Before I run a used dcc train I check it through JMRI to see how the CV's are set.

[@chrispainter7894]

Hi Jimmy a question for you from the UK.. what is the best way to install a surface mounted point motor when your track is laid on cork on top of foam? The thickness is about 1 inch meaning the tiny screws supplied won't reach through the foam to the wooden baseboard. Thanks for all your help and advice. Cheers Chris

[@robertlucido3686]

I use a Model Rectifier Corp. Tech 6 sound controller for my DCC and sound equipment locomotives, I run DC as well as DCC

[@dbmartin60]

I have had A switching layout I used Dc and DCC both using A DPDT switch,I used manual turnouts,The question i have is can you still use A digitrax controller to control turnouts using the Digitraxx decoders,or using Dc and DCC should i just go with mini toggle switches,i will be using Tortoise switch machines as i am building A on30 layout. Thanks.

[@MarksGoneWicked]

Have you considered using a servo instead of a stepper motor for your turntable? I don't mean the little 9gm ones.

[@SFCRambo60]

Bullfrog snot, is it any good and how to apply it on N Scale. Thank you.

[@edwardaudet8367]

Recently, from what I understand and I am reading this right, when Dcc-Ex moved to version 5 they now have another piece to let you run DC or DCC. It's another piece of software that gets added into the Ex software, well when you use the automatic installer, which is the easiest way to DCC-EX your trains. Anyone know more about this feature?

[@rickivansek830]

I’m a military modeler just getting into N scale model rail roads. As a military modeler I’m used to being able to easily find all sorts of detail and production information on the full scale original vehicles and aircraft. I’m sure these sources exist for real/model trains but I have no idea where to find them. Since I’m focusing on building a late 1940s era layout I way to build my rolling stock collection appropriately. Please help!

[@modelrailfan37]

Where can you buy Zimo decoders? I can’t seem to find any available on most websites, but I’ve heard they are very good and would like to try some.

[@brianpagemodeltrains]

Jimmy, can you elaborate on how you did the barrel plug DC to DCC switchover? Today's coffee is Black Rifle's Murdered Out dark roast.

[@johnsthinking844]

menards has a great G scale train

[@oldgrumpyhunter]

Do you have a track plan for the layout behind you?

[@richardwest9054]

Drinking Breakfast Blend Ground Coffee by Lidl.

[@ed1011]

Can a HO transformer been used to power N scale trains? DC only. Are they the same voltage?

[@northmill70]

Cats: maybe try putting cinnamon oil on the benchwork...?

[@poulinmr]

Heard you mention Little ChooChoo Shop ... it is going out of business! So sad. I'm in Apex where are you? Love the content!!

[@linkscarlet9094]

Honestly I'm usually drinking a green tea while I'm working on my model railroad.

[@ShukakuTheCrazy1]

Ok, ill try cleaning the contacts a bit more. And the frogs are plastic insulated. And now my rerailers seem to causing lack of power issues

[@harryrantz6748]

I purchased a rocket double on and off switch from a seller on eBay to run my DCC and DC trains on the same track at different times on my N scale track. It came with no wiring instructions, and the seller had no idea how to wire it up. Can you help me with wiring instructions for it. It has six prongs, two for one transformer, and two for the other, with two going to the track in the center. I tried wiring it up, the top two going to my DCC transformer, and the bottom two going to my DC transformer, and the middle going to the track, but nothing happens when I turn it on to either transformer. What am I doing wrong?? Need help wiring it up!!😢

[@brendanculley2607]

Any tips for cleaning small track

[@davidkoehler136]

why not add battery power , radio control? or what some call dead rail

[@erichusmann5145]

Trains aren't big enough in N scale.

[@thomasl.durbin2517]

This time it's Greenberrys coffee based out of Charlottesville Virginia with some caramel creamer

[@thetrainloverdk]

Whats your most expensive and least expensive locomotives

[@ShukakuTheCrazy1]

And i just checked, a diesel can make it over both, but dies right after. I wonder if my flex track is too tight a turn

[@philhamsher3977]

camera issues on the last couple videos?

[@elleryparsons2433]

Run What You see Fit It really Shouldn’t Matter what You Run Different Strokes Different Folks My Wife And I Run Dc and We Are Happy With it.

[@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad]

I ran out of coffee last night, so instead I had to resort to Cherry Coca-Cola for my daily caffeine dose!

[@jamesdenny4734]

WHAT! FOX VALLEY is gone! Know wonder they never brought out the steam engine the 4-6-2 or a 4-6-4(I forget which) to go with their 4-4-2. Bummer they went out of business 😢

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

The good news is that Scaletrains took them over. So they’re not gone forever.

[@Imieitrenimodello]

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@scottp6825]

I really like your videos. Please lock the camera focus to fixed.

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

Yeah my camera had an issue.

[@nmnn422]

I think I have around 120 HO DCC sound locomotives

[@bobkohl6779]

Chock Full of Nuts Dark Satin

[@El_Crab]

Hello

[@TheNorthwestWind]

MTL couplers are the best in the biz. Kato are trash, in my opinion.

[@jamesdenny4734]

Get rid of the cat! 🐈 simple! 😊

[@colinblaas3592]

dont get a cat

[@investing2000]

Simply put a DP/DT switch in and you have both