You Warned Me, But I Didn’t Listen - Now I’m in Big Trouble!

[@kgbear3662]

Transparency is this channels root to success

[@skeetorkiftwon]

The best solution is to dig a pond deep enough and broad enough to deal with this seasonal flooding and make sure if it overflows that the water level at its fill level is still six inches below the bottom of his footing with drainage away from the property. The land is too flat for any less, and that will be the cheapest long term solution.

[@alandeon]

You mean his outward Homophobia? That transparency?

[@n085fs]

route and channel's and .

[@HunterTN]

Really enjoying the DIY Cozy Houseboat series.

[@WhiteBreadThunder-op6in]

😂😂😂

[@taylorchristie3570]

East coast man here. French drains 6in bellow footer. Backfill to surface with wash stone. Problem solved!

[@Tobblosh]

We do the same (pretty much) in sweden! 🙂

[@woodcutter3206]

And weeping tile along the footing

[@r.rodriguez4991]

Guy who's seen This Old House. I concur.

[@theadventuredowl3845]

High country man here in Colorado.. We have a French drain on the uphill side of the house and diverts to avoid erosion,

[@jonandaudrey]

My uncle Ernie did ag drains all around my house and inside the subfloor in Sydney. Also had to underpin and repoint in spots with the foundation sitting on clay and not sandstone. Bone frick’n dry forever. Pumps are for pussies; power or pump goes out and you’re sitting in a puddle. Best way is to prevent the water from penetrating in the first place. You gotta position the ag drains at the rock layer so the water flows into the drains. Anything above will allow the water to flow around and under back into the house.

[@SilentStudioExplores]

I say dig a moat and build a drawbridge

[@SpoiledBadgerMilk]

Truly a medieval pro ho.

[@michaela1655]

Beat me to the punch! The soil removed to build the moat is then used to build a dike. Or you could just pick the whole building up another 6 feet to get above that flood plane.

[@mclt8883]

Silent : I like your thinking ...lol

[@Usonian7]

Second! 👨🏻‍⚖️

[@CristianoNogueiraBushcraft]

Think that'll be the next 20-part séries!

[@dl1662]

This video is giving horrible flashbacks. My contractor did the same thing and put a drain at level of the bottom of the foundation footer. He then backfilled the crawlspace with dirt so when the water came in, the crawl space was a knee deep slurry. Absolutely awful. I encapsulated and added three sump pumps that ran every 30 minutes year round for two years before I finally go my own equipment and added another deeper drain. Now my sump pumps only run in the winter. So I guess I have to go deeper yet again. I spent 15K on encapsulating, several thousand on sump pumps, and bought a tractor with a backhoe when all my contractor had to do was take an afternoon and dig a deeper trench.

[@highonahill]

Much intition is needed during initial land prep and grading/ chosing home location/ foundation design. This looks flat and wet enough to justify considerion for different foundations in future projects.

[@elaczi]

Thanks for bringing us along. You could have easily hidden this, but the transparency is appreciated. Sometimes things don’t go as planned. I know it’s a bad situation, and I’m sure you must be stressed. Praying for ya, Cody.

[@D2O2]

Never let a good disaster go-to waste. Content is content....

[@darrenivey1452]

Chiming in late here, but I've built 30+ houses with crawl spaces, and it's critical to ensure that the grade inside the crawl space is higher than the exterior grade. The detail we use is masonry block 32" high, with the first 8" course of block backfilled inside the crawl space. I always keep the final grade on the outside 4" lower than the grade inside, and this eliminates the ground water issue. Sump pumps, gutters, and french drains help, but they don't work without some maintenance.

[@TribalLady12]

I don't understand how the inside grade can be higher than the outside & be buried... I can't picture that?

[@cadthunkin]

@@TribalLady12 obviously a different situation. They must have a footing at grade under the block.

[@samuelhenery]

I was watching one of your old videos and saw it was about tire chains. You were putting them on you pickup and the had cam-locks. I thought I would let you know and your viewer that when I drove semi-trucks, we would always paint the cam-lock tool red so you could away find it in the snow. Just another helpful tip.

[@scottmcintosh2988]

Prayers !

[@thomaswezwick5470]

Waters not frozen,,,Can't be too cold..

[@nathanboyer6011]

Your grade needs to fall away from foundation, with no gutter system and no where for water to run it’s going to be an ongoing problem, this guy is something else

[@riverrockranger812]

He is a dumbass

[@akmarksman]

He's either a boomer or gen-x..you can't tell them anything that'll stick.

[@Min4Mass]

@@akmarksman He's gen-x. Leaded gasoline got them.

[@johne.hilbert2046]

Eastcoast man here... Shame the Westcoast man didn't understand water flows down hill to daylight... 😅

[@alzoom85]

Coastal shoreman aint got no grade. Dig below the clay straight down, backfill with gravle…

[@destroyerkuroshiokai]

French drains specs around here call for 2B "clean" stone to allow water to flow readily through. With as much rain as you get I'd consider wrapping the drain around the cabin to isolate the footing from the ground water in any direction. Cheap insurance. We damp proof the walls too, but that doesnt help much if you have standing water against the wall. Glad you found this out before anything was placed in the crawl space that would have cost $$$ to replace. Its an honest man that shows when things dont work out.

[@metallitech]

So the stone joined the 2B Movement?

[@chrisfs150]

​@metallitech is that the same as BLM stone? Antifa gravel perhaps?

[@nofxcasey]

Another note. As advised to me by the pros, you do not want water moving underneath the foundation. it will slowly erode and weaken the base which is holding the foundation causing cracks and settling over time.

[@TomWebb-s3x]

Exactly agree 100% from a commercial waterproofer down here East Coast man with his kind of money and resources he should have built that cabin about 6 feet above is now because he wanted a basement underneath to walk into and have his little house thing prior video he showed because he’s below grade and it’s not gonna work and his situation now what I would do is do the drains but also dig all around that concrete wall and I would put waterproofing material a product called Tremco. It’s below Grade, rubberized product along with a mesh and plastic backer board and it works great in Miami and other places for parking garage that are below sea level

[@karsonbranham3900]

Prett amazed at the amount of water, and the fact that your first drain install attempt isn’t working much at all. It does look like the new one will do the job!

[@juancampos1164]

Just stand back and look at the geology, pedology. Very much saturated organics so the water table is just below surface. This will be a recurring problem unless he creates a small reservoir

[@choosetherightify]

As a fellow proho with an excavator (Kubota KX-161-3), let me tell you about a little experience I had once while clearing a neighbor's field of blackberries.... I was doing nothing out of the ordinary when one of the hoses, right at the point where the stick bends off the cab, burst. It happened to be the most exposed hose, and fortunately, I had the cab window closed because it sprayed hot hydraulic oil all over the cab window. Had it been open, I'd be dealing with the after-affects still. I don't open that window for any reason anymore. I'm not sure why there is no shield between the operator and the hoses, but there should be. It could have been a very bad day/year.

[@c6q3a24]

Consider covering those lines in an abrasion resistant sleeve. This can protect the line from abrasion and UV, and minimize the harm if and when a line does fail.

[@MrLandslide84]

Hoses wear out, definitely an inspection item. Great point on the door since most people don't think of that happening. Me included. (Anyone else see the garbage truck video on YT? fire and all)

[@Lucysdad66]

You are a weekend operator real operator's don't worry about the little stuff like hyd hoses

[@mitchelltaylor9487]

To just forgo safety is a bad thing ! ​@@Lucysdad66

[@1truthseeking8]

All hoses should have a protective sleeve to resist abrasion, minimize risk of puncture, and SHIELD anyone near by from the force of a sudden rupture no matter where on is at outside the cab.

[@deanmalkewich2366]

Excavate and install a weeping tile system around the perimeter, into a sump with a pump and alarm. If it works for 9 ft deep basements it’ll work for a crawl space.

[@PhoenixRising2040]

Depends on where the ground water level is at, there is a difference in ability in regards to putting a drain system in a desert compared to a mountain compared to a swamp, no drain tile system would keep up with groundwater in the center of the floor without 100% waterproofing under the crawlspace

[@setdown2]

Correct...he must know what the problem is "exactly" and know how it operates to come up with the fix...

[@thehunt3652]

This is the correct answer

[@ps-gq5km]

This is only the correct answer if power and backup power is acceptable.

[@thehunt3652]

⁠@@ps-gq5kmhe already showed he has plenty of power in previous videos. And some sump pumps have battery backup for when power goes out.

[@paulie-Gualtieri.]

The cabin looks great

[@ThomasPerkinsWV]

Water issues can be a persistent problem, and while installing a sump pump is a step in the right direction, a permanent drainage system is the real solution. Based on personal experience, I recommend making a few key upgrades to ensure your system is effective and long-lasting. First, replace the black flexible culvert pipe with solid PVC pipe. The black pipe might be convenient initially, but it’s prone to crushing over time. PVC offers the durability you need for a reliable system. At the end of the pipe, consider adding a Y-joint to create two drainage outlets. This setup acts as a fail-safe, so if one side ever gets blocked, water can still flow through the other. Additionally, protect the pipe ends with a sturdy cover or grate. Something durable, like a concrete or steel plate, will keep the pipe from getting crushed or damaged by yardwork or heavy equipment. For a comprehensive fix, dig a drainage pipe that runs directly beneath the footer of your home and into the crawl space. This approach addresses the water problem at its source and prevents seepage into critical areas. Don’t forget to install a backflow preventer to keep water from reversing into your crawl space during heavy rains. Taking the time to implement these changes can save you from ongoing frustrations and provide a permanent solution to your water issues.

[@stevenkruszynski922]

A few questions to consider: 1) What is the water table depth? 2) Does the water seep in from around the building? 3) Where does water from the roof go? 4) Have you water proofed the exterior of the foundation?

[@jesseerickson662]

Sub water rises vertically across the landscape. It needs perforated drain around the exterior and sump pump on the inside. The water isn't flowing, it's rising. Ideally the fill in the crawl space should be higher than ground level.

[@ctadventurist]

I never comment on his channel but it amazes me someone who runs an excavator as much as he has can't understand the water table is high where he is located. No amount of drains will solve this problem. Raise the cabin up and pour a taller foundation or you'll be running sump pump all the time. I grew up in a home with a wet basement and those are the options. For those saying gutters and drain pipes, this is not the solution.

[@KC-rk1hx]

I was thinking water table. I’m about 99.9 percent sure that’s the issue

[@colink4710]

As someone who measures the water table in Idaho for work this surprises me. Water table peak is generally in July out west. He should have seen the high water earlier if that was the issue.

[@moslaf]

Yep, it's hard to see but I think they didn't infill the crawlspace floor after pouring the footings. So now the finished floor height is level with the bottom of the footings while the holes of the perf pipe are closer to the top of the footings. Combine that with the water table bringing water literally up from underneath the foundation, and it's no wonder the drain can't redirect it.

[@moslaf]

Either need to lower the whole drain, or infill the crawlspace floor with gravel to above the water table level.

[@moslaf]

Dig a separate hole a little ways away in the field. Unconnected to the other trenches. When you hit water, use the grade laser to measure the height compared to the water in the trench and the crawl space. If they are all at the same level, that shows it's probably the water table in the field.

[@nofxcasey]

My house had a similar problem. The solution was to install a sump pump in the lowest point of the crawlspace. The sump pump sits in a basin that's lower than the surrounding crawlspace floor. Perforated pipes were laid around the crawlspace to collect water and direct it into the basin. In my case, I had a nearby storm drain that could handle the pumped water. You'll need to figure out a suitable way to discharge the water from your crawlspace, whether it's a storm drain, a dry well, or another method. Good luck!

[@AutoMotoTour]

not good solution, water is entering your crowlspace under your footings so you are constantly moving with water particles under your footings and they will settle down unequaly

[@nofxcasey]

@@AutoMotoTour would you recommend an exterior perf drain go in as well?

[@AutoMotoTour]

@@nofxcasey If your underground water level is high there are only two solutions, french drain as deep as posible around whole house, which will drop water level in whole area or fill crowl space with gravel, vapor barier and 4" concrete, vapor barier shloud be above water level

[@nofxcasey]

@@AutoMotoTour thanks. Vapor barrier is already there. I appreciate the reply

[@morrisjunction]

Thank goodness for Jeremiah, wish you had more able men around you

[@dommy114]

Jiraiya

[@audikid89]

Your problem is the road right next to the cabin. It’s elevated above the field and all the runoff goes down into the field. Your field is oversaturated. You can see how dark your dirt is. It’s been very wet and has not dried out in a long time. Unfortunately that area is not gonna be good to build. It is what it is as you’ve already built that cabin, but you should’ve built the dirt up higher than the road before even making the foundation your best bet is to run a ditch along the road, and then the trench down the side of the cabin perpendicular to the road to redirect runoff

[@wutafungi]

There is a ditch beside the road .... you must have missed the culvert episode ....

[@ianalderson5133]

4:50 no not where the house is. Needs to be on that side of the road between the cabin ​@@wutafungi

[@yukiohorie7]

I think you are right. The house might tilt in a few years. Water problems will never leave you.

[@wutafungi]

@yukiohorie7 do you know anything about construction ..?

[@yukiohorie7]

@@wutafungi Well not as much as you obviously. But then again let's ses. I really don't want to get into a debate with a person that doesn't even say his own name thank you.

[@pati8142]

All the crafts have a specialized skill, it’s hard to be a expert at everything, love watching your channel for this reason…

[@brendanwood1540]

French drain all around with stone on top. Then dig a well or sump, potentially up to 4 wells around the structure at the corners. They need to go down deep enough to draw down the water table. A sump should be enough to collect the water and draw down the table around the structure. The sump should hold enough for most seasons. But you will want a pump for the spring thaw. If you dig a sump try to center it as much as possible. Lookup draw down cones for more information on de-watering. Really something you want to think about before laying foundation. Grade and drainage is really important in civil engineering.

[@Melkizidor]

I'm a recent transplant in Corpus Christi, tx. I used to live in the valley in Oregon. I currently live in my car while attending a trade school for HVACR. Seeing you turn on the heat made me wonder how cold it was that morning. Today it hit 50. Normally I wouldn't have thought that was cold, but that was after I sort of got used to to 90+ F heat.

[@jimh472]

Keep the faith and stay in school. HVAC folks never run out of work.

[@MarkJones-sk6vk]

I lived in my car on the beach there for a few yrs.

[@Dustindoesitall]

Wish you all the best buddy hang in there and get your education and in 10 years if the world is still here, stop back by here and let us know where you're at

[@cmeeoutdoors7556]

Was in your shoes 20 years ago. Two trash bags of clothes, a Ford Ranger, and my then girlfriend now wife figured out how to get me into HVAC trade school. It has opened so many doors for me. Study hard and get certified. If you're willing to work hard and go, you'll be on your feet in no time. God bless

[@SheepleHunter77]

We love you Sir! Hello to all the other "Beloved's"!

[@spkay31]

Great video on troubleshooting and resolving a drainage problem as soon as possible in a new build. Nothing is worse than putting a lot of time and effort into construction only to see it deteriorate prematurely from water infiltration!

[@danielalamo2075]

This brings back memories of my parents wine/root cellar. Dad kept (still does) a pump down there. The water table was really high. My dad and uncle had drains put in the fields to lower the water table and help the crops grow better. I'm not sure why, but the last few years he's having trouble again.

[@cjansson]

I think you are spot on regarding digging a trench and putting drain pipes on the other side/the high side, since it looks like the water is following the elevation thus you need to drain on the high side to prevent it going into the foundation in the first place. The trench you dug today, is useful for emptying the foundation but will not prevent getting into the foundation thus it will remain damp at the very best. You want to put trenches around the foundation on the high side to prevent it getting into the foundation in the first place.

[@richardbrobeck2384]

The cabin is really coming along and good drainage is great !

[@tomray4139]

In Minnesota, we install drainage system next to the foundation and skim coat sealant on the outside of the concrete wall. Even then, standing water will seep in through the concrete. Landscape away from the home and install gutters.

[@Griffsweldingandfabrication]

I love these videos. I don’t know sht about building but Mr. W makes it seem like us normal folk can do it if we really needed/ wanted to. Well done sir

[@Goolio2020]

Great video! Love the first person footage from the operator's view. Best of luck with the project. You're channel is second to none

[@firebpm4977]

I live in Massachusetts on the ocean, where our house is 58 feet above sea level, and I get constant water under my foundation from December to May. From January to March, my sump pump kicks on every 3 minutes! I have a spare completely hooked up and ready to go in the hole as soon as this one dies, and I have a high water alarm in the sump hole so when it DOES stop working, I have about 12 inches of time to swap the pumps! French drains are great, as long as the water table isn't where the French drain needs to go! I noticed you have a color demarcation line on the foundation that looks about 12 inches down from the window. Was it possible that the water rose to that level ? Keep on bringing the content! 16 years !!! you sir have managed the times well!

[@iqvoice]

If your sump kicks on every 3 minutes, you might have a crack in the outside line. You pump water out and the same water comes right back in. You should consider a dye test.

[@firebpm4977]

@@iqvoice it only happens when the water table rises enough to fill the sump hole... its been bone dry since April of last year, and once the drought here ends, It will take a month but then it wil come up for the winter, then go back down in the summer... Been in the house for 12 years and I can almost set my clock to it LOL

[@SilentStudioExplores]

I'm from MA and live on an island off the coast of the North shore! Nice to meet you!

[@firebpm4977]

@@SilentStudioExplores swamscott?

[@SilentStudioExplores]

@@firebpm4977 rockport area! Practically neighbors

[@iamoutofideas13]

This solution was strangely gratifying to watch. I suppose it's just nice to see a plan come together and actually work in the crazy world today.

[@briansimkins9488]

Deep permanent concrete sump basin that everything drains to and an indicator that pump is working. You got this, God bless and stay safe.

[@wallyhall]

UK government is aiming for 2 new houses to be built built every minute. Yes. 120 an hour. In our tiny island. I bet 9/10 folk wouldn’t bother with this degree of attention to detail and care to “do it right” with that kind of pressure. I sure won’t be buying a brand new house any time soon. Deep respect to you for putting in the graft!

[@Chezboi30003]

Has anyone in parliament considered throttling demand instead of trying to boost supply?

[@wallyhall]

@Skoozle yes. And they were immediately labelled “far right”. Welcome to the UK in 2024 🙃

[@harpintn]

I don't know much about grades and how much drop you need, but I do know that water flows down hill, and if you don't give it an easy place to go to, it will go where you don't want it to go. You are on the right track to solving your problem.

[@KuzConstrution]

I would definitely say I like the idea of putting drain rock on the sides with a perforated pipe but I would wrap the rock and pipe in a permeable fabric because overtime the dirt will settle in the pipe and in the rock and just stop the drainage

[@Lightandlovetoyou]

The cold start i appreciate bruv Also like others said Your transparency is admirable Thank you sir

[@thebullgator]

Using Underseal Underslab Membrane is a great way to eliminate this issue. It forms a mechanical bond to the underside of the concrete and exterior beam and turns the foundation into a boat. Gravel and exterior drain tile as a back up and you are golden.

[@bumstudios8817]

As someone who has had flooding in my real home not my spare play home.. I feel your pain. Good luck

[@paladinjme]

The question should be: How is the water getting there in the first place? Gutter/downspouts directing the water away from the foundation should be step 1. Waterstop between the footer and the poured wall apparently wasn't done...big mistake. French drain has to be at or below the footer and surrounded by gravel to be effective.

[@traditionalcampcraft]

Looks like run off from the major road that runs almost right beside this cabin Was just a poor choice for cabin placement

[@blackberrystorm25]

100% Gutter/Downspouts =problem solved.

[@mcslaughter88]

Glad you shared this! Very interesting to see how to remedy the issue using gravity/slope.

[@briarus1000]

my family in Minn. have these same issues. the clay doesn't let the water drain away and pushes the water up and out of the ground when there is a lot of water. the sump pumps go below the basement level and pump water out. also a nice place to drain the basement shower.

[@whosoever316]

Question - is cold climate a factor in this situation? Where I am from we always need things buried below the frost line to prevent freezing. Learning as I watch & read the comments. Thanks!

[@raedunnit8623]

Sorry! Don't get discouraged. I will pray that God will give you his joy to the fullest and then if nothing else...you can sing while you work. It's too cold to have to do this but I will pray it will go by fast and maybe He will send you some helpers. Wishing You Blessings Brother !

[@MemeYou88]

Here in the PNW we have invented a new contraption called a Rain gutter.

[@kevinburns5579]

Yes I noticed that too😊

[@David-e1b3t]

It's interesting how small details were so important, in hindsight.

[@jeffhuntley2921]

My father is a smart man. His first gift when I bought my first house was a sump pump. Used it for 20 years now

[@campy9712]

Good one, thanks for sharing it with us.

[@Ryan-u1n6c]

Man i just found you after years 😊 gotta say you did it brother crazy improvements !!! from busting an egg with a heat gun back in the day

[@MrF4tty]

Might be better to just lift the whole building now. Build up the elevation and foundation so that the problem is fixed the correct and permanent way. Less stress in the future. Either way, good luck!

[@feeder8164]

I’m in the PNW as well. We are also dealing with a crazy series of storms or “bombs” as they are calling them. Water is just taking longer to drain everywhere here. Good luck.

[@removechan10298]

37 seconds in and my heart is already warm

[@ZweiSpeed]

I bought one of those wool blankets you mentioned in a previous video. Didn't realize what I had been missing out on!

[@tylermckee8245]

I've done the dirtwork for hundred of homes in the pnw and never had a wet crawlspace or basement. We run the per drain around the exterior perimeter, at footing grade. Backfill perf pipe a couple inches above your footing/stem wall cold joint. At your discharge point where you are piping the water away from the house either have sleeve through the footing or dig under the footing and make sure at that point you're drain pipe immediately drops at least a few inches. This will gaurantee you have positive drainage away from the crawl. We also like to backfill the crawl with 4-6" of pea gravel and put a vapor barrier. Any water that may seep under your footing will drain through the pea gravel and drain out that sleeve/under flooring at low point, and gives you a nice surface to crawl on under the house. I hate to rely on a sump pump, they fail, power goes out, etc. Gravity always works. It's simple hydraulics water will follow the path of least resistance so just make sure you create that path and you'll never have water issues

[@davecangelosi9688]

Smart dudes. Great work so far

[@olsonkyle12]

Its the high water table. You'll need the perf pipe within the actual crawl space (below grade ideally) and then daylight it out under the foundation drain (assuming you put a foundation low point drain in).

[@jimmycarter3498]

I'd go twice that deep

[@JohnDoe-cd6ro]

Yep. Just to be safe and sure. Might as well if you're already doing it.

[@josephpadula2283]

I live in the same county as he does . Most of us would kill for Any water table problems as we mostly dry farm winter wheat . There is not enough rain to grow anything else if you do not have a well And the Water Rights to use it !

[@drewgerstein9454]

Grade is everything! Build Heigh grade down!!! Water around a house sucks! Love the channel !!

[@Strngbd]

If i remember the texts correctly, and it was a long time ago, I think it has something to do with pore water pressure causing the water to come up into the crawl space. Even though the slotted pipe was as footing level, the path of least resistance caused it to find the crawl space. :) Correct me if I am wrong, happy to be taught something new/corrected

[@DarrenDarren-bs2gh]

1, Grace bituthene water proofing membrane and dimple board around foundation. Such as Water Seal or Carlise products! 2, schedule 35 preferated pipe with fabric sock around foundation , put below footer and add T’s for clean out at corners 3, lay down landscaping fabric, the black stuff that comes in 10 foot rolls. Not that crappy stuff from home depot ! Fill the hole up with 2 b river gravel, all the way up to grade. Then add bigger river rock for decor. No dirt!

[@dawall3732]

2 major problems with your setup for that French drain. 1. The French drain isn't set up the proper way. It's set up the quick way. Proper way to set up a French drain. 1. Dig trench. 2. Place liner in trench with edges of liner flapped over edges of trench. 3. Place pipe in bottom of trench on top of liner. 4. Place gravel directly on top of pipe. 5. Fold liner hanging out of trench over gravel and secure. 6. Cover over with dirt. 2. Also for best drainage of crawlspace into French drain. Place a drain in crawlspace, leading to French drain through a pipe.

[@attila2a746]

Good stuff I learn something new every video

[@bottlebrush]

PNW looking beautiful. Same weather in Eastern Australia right now

[@The_Fit_ness_monster]

Louisiana here ummm what’s a crawl space? 😂😂

[@hacksaw5800]

It's where the old oil well are hiding under the homes down south

[@BattleChemist]

Crazy that the drain on grade isn't draining that and you need the deeper french drain.... but if it works, it's not stupid.

[@stevensimpson4564]

For perimeter drains always back fill with 3/4 river rock gravel (permeable)12" margin out from wall & and around drain to surface and use liquid roll on waterproofing on your stem-wall. Best practice.

[@bt81-]

Hey Wranglestar - i'm going to be honest the best way to fix this properly - is going to be to dig yourself drainage pool a good 50 feet away from the property, on the lower side of the field - and then make sure that drainage pool has somewhere to drain to slowly over time - i know it sounds a bit sill but the problem you have is the clay layer is saturating slowly and allowing the water to fill and then raise during flooding and wet weather. Gravel, and a decent deep basin nearby are your friend. My Father was a civil engineer and he knew a lot about sewer systems, drainage, and soil permeability.

[@clydeacor1911]

Hind sight is always 20/20 but that property looks like it sits low and is always wet, probably should've hauled pit run in and built the pad up but with what you have to work with now I'd put those drains in as deep as you can especially since they're going to be farther away from the foundation. If you have 2 feet of fall I'd go 12-18 inches deep, 6 inches of fall for 150 feet should be enough.

[@Sig220Euro]

On your drip line drains I think I'd add in a little slope to drain to the back corner. If you are just keeping them on grade the water will tend more to pool and lay and not run off. Not much, maybe 3-4" fall from the front of the cabin to the back corner.

[@BvictoryforChrist]

Eager to see the end results. Keep us posted

[@darrellbeane4052]

Any contractor will say,6”next to foundation, paint tar on wall, pipe, gravel, fabric then cover with dirt…..

[@BlackRiverRoyal]

In the Netherlands we try and build the new houses higher then the surrounding ground, so if it starts raining to much and water levels rise, your garden may be full of water and fish, but at least your home stays dry. Raising the ground if you’re building a new home so your house sits on a kind of island, It ain’t cheap, but it will save you a lot of trouble in the future

[@dcimages4373]

Thanks for another great video Good luck with the drain Thank God u have the excavator.

[@bh02422]

Next week: Negotiating with the Army Corps of Engineers to move a Cozy Cabin!

[@kandylandfarms9898]

Cody, not knowing your soil type out west but leaving a ditch open in Most any where in Ohio with wet (muddy) walls and flowing water the side ussaly fall in. Also I would look at getting washed river gravel to cover the pipe and put straw over the gravel toss the faberic in the trash can I put in a drain line beside my cattle barn US soil and water that helped disign the barn said I had to put faberic over or use the sock type tile and use lime stone ot cover it it worked for about a month. I built the barn in 2018 I need to did it up and do it my way which is the way I told you. River gravel under and over the pipe if it is really fine soils you can put straw over it. I have put in thousands of feet of farm field tile.

[@amochswohntet99]

ohh I see, I didn't even know that footing drains were even a thing until you mentioned it and I looked them up, and I see now that it's just a matter of clearing the drain, and it's built into the gravel under the foundation so it'll drain out pretty easily. Well that's a relief 😅 and I learned something. My grandfather built a spec house on a hillside for which building codes, I think, required there be a substantial French drain behind the retaining wall, so I was only familiar with those before these couple of videos.

[@stewartstewart2693]

Mound builders along time ago , built up there site before building on there flat planned area. My heart feels for you right now. Gutters and concrete around your whole cabin. Add a ditch towards the greatest slope from the cabin . Then plan fruit trees or anything that grows well in your area along both sides of the ditch. I my humble opinion

[@25cmslak]

Place a barrier over the drainage layer in the crawl space. Install ventilation that remains open during the winter but closed in the summer. This summer, we completed approximately 120 meters of French drainage around a house and received a tip from a relative who works with re-draining old houses. According to them, you should only lay the geotextile fabric on top, not wrap it like a burrito. This person claims that the fabric will no longer allow water to pass through after 20-30 years or will do so much less effectively. We also saw evidence of this at the end of our old drainage system, where the fabric might as well have been a vapor barrier plastic. It’s interesting to hear your opinion on this. I am a man who values order and regulations-construction standards take precedence over wise old men. However, in this case, it was a relative on my wife’s side...

[@Sailor376also]

If I might suggest,, "Put another inch in." No,, Put another foot in. Ground water can be defeated, but no half measures. Another inch can be defeated by a heavy drizzle. Your final trench looked good.

[@janebayley4800]

If I might make a suggestion, let the water make your levels right when the water runs away. You've got the right grade❤

[@ronnieschwa2214]

In my experience doing a project like you’re doing right now you should be using a non-woven drainage fabric in the trench before you put in your stone and drainage pipe, then wrap the non-woven material around the gravel to stop any fine particle dirt from getting into the drainage gravel doing so will make your drainage system last much longer

[@robertbennett6697]

There are certainly times, when the Professional Home Owner in you, undeniably, shines through.

[@PurpleFinchFarm]

Sea level rise. Gretta told me so. That's why the water keeps getting higher in you're crawl space.

[@cjorg16]

We had a water problem in our crawl space at our house. Natural spring next door and up hill. Problem was not solved until we had put a French Drain around the entire perimeter of the house that drained lower. It worked well.

[@shilohsshorts-militarymaca6985]

French drain under the middle of house #1. Slope grade under house to the French drain. All Solid pipe drain lines out side of foundation to a deep leach field full of gravel. You don’t want to encourage water to drain under the footings then your house will settled because the compaction is being compromised. You will have to dry it over time. I’ve done this many times on raised foundation builds. Hope this helps.

[@rustbucket9318]

Seems like going deeper with the floor of the French drain would give more forgiveness. I’d go another 4-6” and then create more fall away. I like the idea of perf pipe wrapped in geo fabric below the washed gravel in the drain.

[@thomasszyszka3223]

No hate just wondering. Why did they only do concrete foundation on the sides and not as the floor? If the entire crawlspace including the walls and floor were concrete wouldn’t it keep out all water. Or is that improper building technique? Thanks!

[@Nathaniel1991]

7:20 that’s how excavator buckets are born lol

[@Nctbgs]

Midwest man here ! Drain tile at bottom of footing on outside , backfill with stone entirely, only about 6 inches of dirt on top . Drain tile on inside of foundation also , tied together. They go to daylight or go a pump ! Problem solved .

[@Mark-Harding]

You make and have always made great videos.

[@BOHICA_]

Love the cold diesel starts.

[@scottbrown8142]

I haven’t worked equipment in years, we had to knock out pins to change buckets

[@axesandthings483]

A sump pump is a must, but if it ever runs it means you're in a monsoon, or you've got more drain tile work to do! Great video, cheers.

[@michaeldavidson8990]

Good job 👍🏻