Yugoslavian 24/47 Mauser

[@jamesbracken4618]

These 24/47 are not k98 knock offs, they are straight up 98 variants. If you measure the barrels the k98 is longer and the steps are in different places , the sights are different, they wont interchange. The 24/47 is an FN design and the factory was set up by FN, and are well made. The model 24s were scrubbed and new marking put on them, some barrels were changed, not all. Most bolts were kept with the action, not all, as well as stocks. They are definitely not knock offs.

[@AA-dn8dj]

Centerfire Systems had ottoman 1898 Mausers in 8x57 for 210 bucks back in january but they sold out in a day and haven't gotten them back since.

[@joepangean6770]

The inscription on left side of barrel receiver translates to "Factory 44" (Zastava). Also the bolt handle and stock through bolts are not marked "3", that is Cyrillic "Z". On the underside of sight has Cyrillic "D" as wells as arsenal stamps of rebuild.

[@masonbriggs2]

Mine got stuck in the locked position can you help me pleass

[@TOWIIBRAVO]

The safety is in the off position, and it seems "stuck" in the off position, because the bolt is not cocked and the safety cannot be moved to the "on" position unless the bolt is cocked. And a cock on closing action (which the 93 is) can have the bolt reinstalled when it is not cocked. You haven't disassembled or partially disassembled the bolt, have you?? The bolt shround (the part that holds the safety) should be screwed all the way up against the rear of the bolt body (the end behind the bolt handle). Look at the bolt from the rear, the "axle" of the safety (where it goes into the bolt shroud, the bottom "end" of the wing) should be lined up with the bolt handle. This is the correct position. At this point, look at the front of the bolt and make sure the extractor is over the right locking lug. IF not, rotate it there (by hand) otherwise the bolt won't go into the back of the action. Now insert the bolt into the action. It should go in, and then stop when it hits the back end of the magazine follower. Military Mausers have a square shoulder on the back of the magazine follower, intentionally designed to lock the action open when empty. This is so that, in the heat of battle, the rifle locks open when empty, telling the soldier it is empty. Push the magazine follower down a little and slide the bolt forward over the follower. The bolt will go nearly all the way closed, then stop, again. This is also intentional, and the way the gun works. The "stop" with the bolt nearly shut is the sear (on the cocking piece) catching on the trigger. Either push the bolt handle all the way forward, (compressing the firing pin spring, cocking the rifle) and turn the bolt handle down and the rifle is cocked, locked shut and ready to fire. You will have to push against the tension of the firing pin spring and hold the bolt shut until you can turn the handle down and lock it shut. OR when the bolt stops nearly shut, simply pull the trigger (hold it back) and push the bolt shut, turning the bolt handle down to lock the action closed without it being cocked. At this point, the action is closed and the gun is not cocked. Disassembling the bolt assembly for cleaning is simple, PROVIDED you start with the gun cocked and the safety "on" in the middle position (wing straight up). With the safey ON (straight up) simply remove the bolt and the entire firing mechanism will unscrew from the bolt body as a single unit, allowing you to clean and oil it as needed. DO NOT turn the safety OFF!!!!! This will make screwing the firing pin assemly back into the bolt body complicated. Do not disassemble the frining pin mechanism, unless you need to! IF you need to, I can tell you how, but lets get your assembled bolt back into the rifle so you can take it out and put it back in easily, first. I recommend you get a book that covers your rifle, one with pictures. Small Arms of the World (Smith & Smith) is a decent reference. IT is a massive reference that covers operating and field stripping of nearly all military small arms used since the 1890s. You don't need a new copy, and every old copy will cover your Mauser, and often the old editions are fairly cheap.

[@Oldman899]

The stock is made of Elm.

[@dale27488]

Kragujevac Is pronounced Craw-goo-yevats The Serbian J makes a Y sound, and the C makes a "ts" sound, as in "it's"

[@jamjedi1972]

Very nice rifles! I also have a yugo 24/47 and a Turkish Mauser. My Turkish Mauser is in perfect condition.

[@jagerhoeksema2207]

Where did you find your german k98 or is there a video on it

[@t.c.2776]

So you mentioned the extreme accuracy of the K98... does that mean the Yugo is less accurate?

[@GenerationKill001]

Nice review