ZX7R rebuild Ep1 - identifying some issues

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Haha! Appreciate the shout out mate. Glad to see the noise has gone up front, my guess from the last vid was the carb slides or something external vibrating with the engine. How were the clutch plates when you took them out? Sometimes they get a slight warp in them and that can cause the clutch to drag quite a bit even when the levers pulled in. If you pull the rear brake calliper off and test again, you should be able to see if that’s causing the issue or not. If not, my guess would be the chain, either too tight or it’s slightly stiff from sitting and a stiff bit going round the sprockets is causing a wobble. Keep it up 👍🏻

[@noggintube]

Ok, few points: 1 - oil level. Yes you've overfilled it. The level should be between the low and high marks when the engine is off and the oil has all settled back to the sump. The marks are specifically for that purpose only and nothing to do with the level when the engine is running. The oil level will drop when the engine is running because it is being fed all around the engine where it needs to be, rather than sat in the sump. If you think about it the last thing you want is all that oil sat in the sump not doing anything 😉. Drain a bit out before you next start it. 2 - clocks - yes it looks like you have an earth fault or something. Tach should indeed read zero with engine off and temp should only go up like that if engine is warm. On a cold engine that would also start from zero. You'll probably have to have a poke around in the wiring to check for any corrosion etc. 3 - potential brake issue - if the disc is warped, you'll feel a pulsing in the brake pedal. Lightly press the pedal and if the rear wheel slows without any pulsing, the disc is fine. It's difficult to know if any issues when the bike is being 'driven' on a stand, as the wheel is not under any load, so prone to jerking as inertia can make it seem things are happening that won't affect it on the road. The chain sounded quite loud, maybe check the chain alignment and condition too. Also, although the engine sounded ok, I'd check the carb balance, as if out that can cause some lumpy running which could also be the cause. The rear brake is an easy first check though, so I'd also start there (and the chain). 4 - ignition key issue - this happens with older bikes. The wafers inside the lock wear, so the key doesn't close them properly and the lock is 'stuck'. Usually wiggling it up and down quickly (and gently) as you turn the key will work, but to fix, it requires the lock barrel to be taken out and either replace the wafers, which can be a fiddly job, or what I've done and with the key in the barrel, file the slightly proud wafers flush to the barrel. As long as they are only slightly proud this won't be an issue. If they are badly worn, then it'll compromise the bikes security, but if that was the case you probably wouldn't be able to turn the key at all. 5 - I noticed the pipe at the bottom of the radiator is blanked off. Shouldn't that be connected to something - I can't remember as it was a long time since having one, but seems odd that's a blanked off tube. Can't remember if that's to the carbs for de-icing, which a lot of people disconnect, so could be that, but I think that comes off the thermostat housing so not sure. I used to have one of these back in the mid 2000s and loved it. Only got rid of it as my knees were starting to complain at the sports bike riding position. Good to see one being maintained and kept from ending up as spare parts 👍

[@2000jago]

Disconnect the rear brake caliper. Pull it away from the disk and tie it out of the way and re-try.

[@dermotmcloughlin9609]

Hi there, been watching you videos and you really get stuck in and learn alot. If the gauge faces are aftermarket, then to install them the clocks need to be taken apart and the needles removed. Probably put back in the wrong position. Think you are on the right track with removing the rear caliper, sounded like it was dragging slightly when you turned the wheel by hand. Also check chain for tight spots. The stands can be a bit wobbly at the best of times too.👍

[@daverichardson5861]

Just my thoughts Darren, engine is pumping oil round it when its running so glass will seem low (as suggested). Have you tried the axle stand and screw driver check on the rear disc? Put a stand along side the wheel, place a screwdriver (flat blade) on the stand and just touching the disc and slowly rotate the wheel, check if theres any variation (gap) between blade and disc. Worth a check. Is the clutch hydraulic? If its been stood a while the piston in the master servo could be slightly sticking (if its still doing it). If its cable op, has the cable dried out, sometimes they collect damp and rust a bit. The rev counter looked like the needle sticking and not returning back to zero. Could be earth but worth WD in electrical plugs just to try. Buy some petrol! Hope it helps but I wasn’t a bike mechanic. Stay well. (Nice bike though).

[@johnwalsh2092]

Hi mate, sometimes the clutch needs bleed, and I think you are correct the brakes are needed changed safe riding.

[@MehdiAstirbadi]

Hi, sounds like a tight chain!

[@AndrewJackson-cx3dj]

If you listen to the chain it’s not smooth I recon worn out sprockets best replace all those items brakes etc and go back to lime green good work mate 👍

[@oodiddy9778]

a faulty sidestand switch can also do that . as well as a clutch lever switch.

[@MynameisDarko-ln5ts]

Oil Level Check: The oil level must be set correctly; it should fall between the two designated lines. Perform this check with the engine off and the motorcycle on a flat surface. It’s normal for the oil to seem to disappear when the engine is running. Clutch System Bleeding: For the clutch system, ensure there’s no air trapped inside by properly bleeding it. Oil Change and Heat Cycles: Place the motorcycle on a stand, run it through a few heat cycles, then change the oil. Afterwards, check the oil level to assess if it remains consistent.

[@user-lv5tz8ze7w]

As others have mentioned, chain sounds rough and probably over tight, robs power for a past time.

[@framurray5282]

take some oil out...too much in it..spray wd40 into the ignition...most times its just dry from lack of use. the rear caliper might need a rebuild..they can stick...

[@MehdiAstirbadi]

The clock faces have been changed try removing the clock faces and resetting the needles.

[@jasonkristunas9427]

Over filling oil can cause problems seals can blow out etc, the oil level will drop during running that's normal. Is the rear wheel notching due to drive chain?

[@jub7914]

chain too tight ?

[@richardnoyon1875]

Carb balancing will make the world of difference....