You need volume. I have to turn you way up, then when an ad interrupts it blows me out of my chair.
@IanSutherland-z8w7 күн бұрын
Good thanks, had done it years ago but this was a great tutorial.
@anthonyhawkins943210 күн бұрын
I think your weathering looks really cool and realistic,i did try it once on a class 55 and 08 shunter,but it made a right mess,I do like weatherd look sometimes.But i aint good enough to do it correctly,less is more i suppose.i leave everything pristine now.thanks though
@fijack429010 күн бұрын
Great job and very educational. However, wouldn't the front tyres be melted by the fire?
@rowdyperson639312 күн бұрын
Hello Will you make the depot railings again Thanks
@davidhinks838418 күн бұрын
Getting ready to paint up some ModelU figures for era 3. Really helpful and love the result you achieved. Cheers
@Aviationspotlight129 күн бұрын
Amazing model! Love your work and bought a few. Is it all cut on the S1? Even the glass, always tried to figure out how to get the window inserts perfect when doing my own models
@Tauraco00Ай бұрын
Well done🎉🎉❤❤🚂
@Tractor3ThrasherАй бұрын
Hi I've just came across this video I'm currently trying to work out the best way to fade red/grey on a plank wagon. Don't have oil paints just acrylic/enamel and pigments. Any tips would be great the wagon in question is a N gauge obb in rail freight livery.
@richardgroves3517Ай бұрын
Just amazing
@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267Ай бұрын
Excellent video I am just starting to learn how to do this
@RichardsrailwayАй бұрын
Usually a concrete chimney ,
@johnalbury84292 ай бұрын
Why not solder the red & black wires where the 2 links are? Would save 2 solders!
@michaelwhite80312 ай бұрын
Great work. I just subbed.
@railway1872 ай бұрын
Great workshop! Thanks 🙏 new subscriber 🙋♂️
@lnrmodels2 ай бұрын
Very satisfying to watch - I’m going to be trying some of these techniques on one of my old diesels
@johnthewlis85242 ай бұрын
Thank you for sharing your top tips. I learnt a lot. I've been a subscriber for some time and I've bookmarked this video for future reference. At minute 1:50 I was a bit alarmed when you moved in with the sprue cutters COLD without first giving the print a 10 second soak in hot water (about 70C) to help provide "flex" and wiggle to release the figure from the sprue. The recommended release method is to soak in hot water, flex the support struts and allow them to fall away from the figure by themselves. The risk of accidentally cutting off integral parts of the sculpture is reduced if you go through this process. Sprue cutters are not required; (although a sharp scalpel is occasionally needed to tidy up any stubborn blips after the figure is free from the sprue). Is it possible to edit your video with a sub-title at this point "after soaking the print in hot water (70C) for ten minutes, gently flex the print and press the support struts with your fingers; they will fall away from the figures neatly by themselves".
@rugglez2 ай бұрын
Total noob here. Why not just submerge the whole body in IPA to remove the old paint? Would that cause damage or start melting the plastic or something like that?
@nesnduma2 ай бұрын
Nice weathering. But which maate varnish do you apply over oil paint?
@patrickquinn59622 ай бұрын
Nice one thanks Patrick Quinn IRL
@w.rustylane56503 ай бұрын
I find that I use my airbrush for most of my weathering. Instead of using chalk or pastels, I use women's eye shadow makeup I get for $1.00 at the dollar store. It comes in every color under the sun and sticks better than any weathering powders you could ever hope to use. Cheers from eastern TN
@brentg29473 ай бұрын
Love the videos, informative and relaxing lol! I am a rookie, when using AK varnish through an airbrush to seal in a layer… do you thin the varnish?? Or do you shoot it through at full strength? Thanks!
@nesnduma3 ай бұрын
I've used finer salt. It allows much finer control on the chipping zones beforehand. Also I have sprayed water over it afterwards to make it stick to the surface and have let the water dry completely.
@vicenterodriguez64913 ай бұрын
Very good video. At the end of the video it shows how to configure with the control panel but I don't see the frog cable connected. Is it necessary to not be connected?
@chorlton43 ай бұрын
looks good, what make is the depot building?
@fedelerinaldi67204 ай бұрын
How do you stop the wood from warping, my 3mm ply goes in flat but once I score with brick texture, it warps the wood like crazy. Also which paint spray do you use? Thank you
@dougbull32894 ай бұрын
What a great idea, well done.
@krazytroutcatcher4 ай бұрын
I like this, I like it very much, masking off those wheel treads can be a pain.
@rhiwderinraytube4 ай бұрын
Who makes it? Where do you buy it?
@BuntersYard4 ай бұрын
It’s made by us and available on our website buntersyard.co.uk/search?q=mask&options%5Bprefix%5D=last
@toddarmstrong.trackside.action4 ай бұрын
@@BuntersYard You've got a great website. Some amazing products but I'm HO 1:87. I'd need 9.6mm and 10.3mm masks. I may order some other stuff and hope it doesn't look too oversize. The ATM and the yellow bumpy platform edging are really cool. I haven't seen them done before. Nice work
@dibsyardshuntinglayout4 ай бұрын
Definitely makes painting the wheels easier!
@Lewis-kf2pj4 ай бұрын
I’ve somehow got it into my brain, what little there is of it, that locomotives never look quite right when they’re fresh and crisply painted. Give it a week of thrashing around and bring her back to me! :) :) The locomotive I’m thinking of is a 37 all tarted-up in the grey, more grey and yellow with the 5 spot dice device, black spots on a yellow square. She’ll always look more interesting and appealing with a bit of grit, grot and oil splashed up her…… ;) Bah! The loco ain’t bad-lookin’ either.
@CockneyRooster4 ай бұрын
Looks really good
@CockneyRooster4 ай бұрын
Looks quaility
@maxstafford600934 ай бұрын
I think it can also be pronounced 'Model-ee' as a nod to being produced in Wales. 😊 A nod to Welsh language.
@VauxhallRailfan5 ай бұрын
Excellent job on that! looks amazing! just a question, do you NEED to prime it before you paint it or can you paint it straight away without primers?
@DavidShorter-h2s5 ай бұрын
Do you need to seal the paint and powders with a varnish? Thanks
@fexploder32815 ай бұрын
Well, congratulations! You have basically made a coat of prime that makes this body look like Devious Diesel from Thomas the Tank Engine in this video.
@Thebigfour19235 ай бұрын
It remains me of her in 2016 when she returned to steam and I dons mind it
@stephengleeson12636 ай бұрын
I hope my first attempt come out this well. Thanks
@edwardshirley93146 ай бұрын
You've accidentally left the radio on in the background.
@gppsoftware6 ай бұрын
One of the problems with this approach is that it doesn't facilitate any sideways adjustment of the track position - the droppers physically prevent it. If you run the droppers out to the side of the track, you get provision for adjustment. Most people run a single bus on an end to end layout, but the fact that you have two gives you the opportunity to connect them together at each end and create a ring. This would have the benefit of equalising electrical load across the entire layout and is the same reason ring mains are used in UK homes.
@westwonicАй бұрын
Bus wires should not be laid as a ring due to digital data being received by a loco from two directions.
@gppsoftwareАй бұрын
@@westwonic Unfortunately, the basic principals of electricity and parallel wiring are widely misunderstood and have led to this popular myth! If you lay a circle of track on a 4x8 board with no insulated joints anywhere and connect your DCC system to it, what do you think the rails create ? A ring! And if you lay a second circle of track on the board around the first ring and then connect wires between corresponding rails of both, what do you think that is ? It is a bus in a ring with droppers running in parallel to the track in a ring. Some years ago, some electronics expert members of the UK's Model Electronics Railway Group (MERG) decided to investigate the popular myth that claims buses shouldn't be rings and they calculated that at the frequency that DCC operates, you would need a ring of at least 2km to even slightly 'widen' a bit received on the other side of a ring. And to completely offset the bits, you'd need multiple km more. IIRC they calculated around 10km. My own layout is a DCC bus ring of around 24m and this is probably larger than many layouts. At the lengths we are talking about, there is insufficient length to cause different data from two directions. Granted that some DCC system manufacturers state that their *cab* buses should not be wired in rings, but that is a separate bus and it is because the network topology isn't designed to operate in a ring.
@westwonicАй бұрын
@@gppsoftware your quoted circle of track is presumably made of Nickel Silver, whereas the bus wiring is hopefully copper wire. The data transmission is via the bus not the track, as evident on my layout which Includes a few reversing loops that include isolating fishplates that break that track circle. I have seen many videos that promote non-circular bus cables, and thus have wired mine accordingly with two buses, including a bus sniffer at each far end as sold by dcc concepts.
@gppsoftwareАй бұрын
@@westwonic As I said elsewhere, the principals of electricity and parallel wiring are widely not understood. If you have a bus running parallel to rails with droppers running between them, the power and data transmission will be exactly the same, everywhere - the data doesn't 'choose' to run through the wires and not through the rails! Power and data transmission goes through wires only in the situation where there is a length of rail with a single dropper and it is isolated at both ends. It doesn't matter how many fishplates are involved (if any). The moment an extra dropper is added anywhere along the length, the wiring is no longer the sole transmitter of power and data because the parallel wiring equalises everything out in that area. The reason we use copper wire is because of its superior conductivity, meaning that it is much less likely to cause voltage drops due to resistance. Voltage drops are still possible if insufficiently rated wire (too thin) is used (gets worse with length) or poor connections at wiring joints are made. We use bus wiring so that we don't *rely* on fishplates as a means of electrical continuity, but where fitted, they will always (or should) be conducting. A bus enables us to insert insulated joints around turnouts and reverse loops etc and maintain power. In terms of the distances involved on most of our layouts, the electrical difference between nickel silver vs steel rail will make next to no difference, likewise, copper wire, assuming all connections are good and appropriately rated cable is used. In reality, nothing is perfect and standard of workmanship becomes a factor. Yes, you are correct that there are videos that promote non-circular bus arrangements. If you understand basic electrical principals, it becomes pretty obvious that the makers of these videos don't! There is only one proponent of (I think you mean) bus terminators/snubbers and he happens to be the same person who sells them and from whom you purchased them. They are not necessary. If they are making a difference, then you most likely have bigger problems and that snubbers are masking the problem, not fixing it. I have asked Lenz, NCE, Digitrax and the UK's 'Model Electronics Railway Group' (MERG) about all of this in the past and they all confirmed what I have written above.
@cuebj6 ай бұрын
Got this from googling 'platelayers'. My great grandfather was a platelayer in 19th century. Living in Moulton, Cheshire, I guess that would have been the London and North Western Railway between Crewe and next station northwards. He had 13 children in a 2-up, 2-down that opened straight onto the street and nextdoor was an abattoir. My maternal grandfather was youngest. Three brothers killed in WW1 and on the war memorial. Grandpa was born in mid 1890s and served the full 4 years of WW1. He remained a private as that was safest with officers and NCOs targeted first by enemy and he couldn't afford taking time out for training because his elderly mother depended on his wages. A gruelling job and a hard life. For survivors of WW1, there were plenty of opportunities for work and he moved to Liverpool where he became a policeman and rose to Deputy Chief Constable leaving the heavy outdoor work of platelayer behind. He re-enlisted in WW2 as Lieutenant Colonel in Military Police and landed in France D-Day +2 in charge of re-establishing civil order. Mum was furious with him as his going back to war meant she couldn't leave her mother and she stayed in Liverpool as a nurse instead of adventuring overseas as a WREN or similar in Army or Air Force. But that background had its long-term effects and he and Granny died in their mid 60s in Feb and Mar 1961, a few weeks before we (Mum, Dad, me, 3 younger siblings down to newborn) came to settle in England after post WW2 in Northern Nigeria.
@MerryMac10006 ай бұрын
I really enjoyed watching your video and it has inspired me to try this myself. I have been painting Warhammer for decades but with the price hikes i can't justify it anymore. These look like great fun. What scale was this figure? It turned out beautifully, i don't understand why people dislike painting in highlights, at smaller scale you cant get a realistic highlight anymore with actual light sources and need to cheat by painting them in yoursel to make it look more really in-scale.
@paulruiz47786 ай бұрын
Is a 1/64 scale figure?
@stephenspinks64866 ай бұрын
I think I take that up as I don't have an airbrush
@gerlandkent63777 ай бұрын
[thank, you for youre great video]👍
@shakeyhandsshedmodelrailwa24947 ай бұрын
i used to live near a plant that recycled barrels , it was next to our local river we used to knick barrels and build rafts in the summer happy days
@shakeyhandsshedmodelrailwa24947 ай бұрын
you'd deed 1000s to re create it , ever thought of making blocks of stacked barrels for such yards like chemical companys and truck loads etc
@1977ajax7 ай бұрын
Was fairly interested to watch, but had to click out because of the damned music. Once again, more is less.
@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam82677 ай бұрын
Looks fantastic, I only nailed my track no glue , going to subscribe your channel
@dalipparmar61347 ай бұрын
Being a novice, very well explained, nice clear explanation and video.