Mükemmel içerik elinize sağlık

Two things more, veri important: 1) by using the Omnijoin adaprors there is no need to peel the thin wires, whe you squeeze the joint it makes holes in the wires; 2) by peeling the wires and then by shorten the copper lenght if you do as in the video you risk to let fall a rest of copper strand to the circuitry; if it stick somhow there it may cause a short.

The upgrade you shoes in your (in part quite confusing video) is well only for the inner fans. Apart that the Noctua fan put in the power supply has a lower air flow in comparison with the original, thus the temperature of the power supply became quite higher if you set nesr the mahimum temperature for the bed plate and for the hot-end, so it would be better help this temperature to be a bit lower by using a case-fan a little more efficient to pull more hot air away from the bottom case self: there are 40x40x20 fans capable of 12-15 m3/hour air flow at 20/22 dB, so non too much louder as the Noctua (which is 9.4 m3/h at about 15 dB). Anyway it is instead crazy to suggest the replacement of the hot-end and the colling fans (the original are louder but not so much more then the Noctua... the more boring noise comes from the inner fans) using 12V fans which need the buck converters, and then admit the fans speed cannot more be regulated from the G code or the touch display. For really quality 3D printing the speed of those fans must be regulated..

Acaba de llegarme un ATT de segunda mano (el antiguo, caja negra). ¿Se puede hacer funcionar sin el "TeleFlyTiny"? --> ingresando mediante mavlink las coordenadas GPS directo al ATT gracias!! --- Inglés I just received a second-hand ATT (the old one, black box). Can it be made to work without the "TeleFlyTiny"? --> entering the GPS coordinates directly to the ATT through mavlink thank you!!

Would you be willing to share the actual parts list for this build? OR A parts list of what you would use today if you built it again?

Change ELRS ratio to 1:2 and you protocol CRSF 100%

mosfet numarası kaç

Does your dlink go higher than 10%? I wouldnt feel safe flying on a low link like that

Can you make a joystick for a fpv drone

why 360p bro

Hey would you mind listing all the parts for your ground station maybe explain it throughly in the video I know ppl on Reddit would go crazy over it

Would you mind sharing what you used in the way of batteries and charging?

Would you happen to have a parts list? I'm particularly interested in the tiny monitor and what you used for the PC.

can i use PLA to print the parts i need?

Where can I find the drawing file?

Hi CzK Really love this project and the build. Would you be open to building something similar for someone?

For the hot end fans, I know the black and red wire go through the buck converter, but where does the yellow go? Should I just connect it straight to the board from the fan?

9:09 I will use this cable for all my fans. And what does this cable do?

yellow and blue , which is DC+ which is ground ?

12:29 red and black , which is plus which is minus ?

11:30 yellow and blue , which is plus which is minus ?

Abi sana nerden ulaşabilirim ground control hakkında sorularım var

11:05 fan model ?

Be careful of heat creep on the hot end. I have been having poor print quality with small details lately. I ended up switching back to the originals and that solved my issues. The case fans have been fine. I print mostly PETG so with PLA you probably won’t experience this .

i imagine the part cooling fan (next to the hotend) should be a4x20 pwm? and blue wire is the black wire equivalent ?

Hello everyone. I d9nt understand why not just buy the right fan for the hot end instead to use a buck converter??I don't get it

Hi, what battery are you using inside to power it all up, and what pc are you using, planning to build something similar and looking for something which does not consume a lot, maybe I go las and use linux with raspberry and qgroundcontrol jajaj

I cant controll my FAN speed anymore.... cant figure out why

Hello. Good work!!!! To print this model, it's need about 40 hours. Maybe you know how to print this model by parts for 8 hours in a day, for example. Because my 3d printer at work and I can't leave it to work all day and night.

Thank you for the video. Can you clearly list which fan goes to which part of the printer? I already replaced the inner fans and I need to replace the two fans near the hotend. I'm trying to understand and verify exactly which fans go there so I don't buy the wrong fan. Thanks.

Eline sağlik cok guzel olmus

that's amazing!! but ..damn i can't see windows on that...why windowshit?

nice very useful!!!

This video makes my 3D-life much easier. Still needs a bit of tweaking, but at least I understand what I'm doing. Many thanx for your time🤓

I buy what price?

Amazing project!!! Your skill are at high level... i am without words ...my compliment !!!

hello I have the same printer as the one you have with the microswizz so you can help me with the retractions as you have them configured thank you very much sir

Why do you use the NF-A4x20 PWM on the PSU and NF-A4x20 FLX for the fan duct? Is there a reason for not only using the NF-A4x20 FLX since you are not using PWM functionality? And is the air flow really sufficient with the Low-Noise Adaptor?

how do i set the buck to 12volt ? or is it always set to 12volt? why not just plug the fans in serie ?

Hello nice video! I have a creality cr 10 smart, I find it very noisy. Can I make the change shown in the video? Do you know any tutorials?

Harika

I have no problems managing the leveling and the z offset, thanks to your videos. But DAMN. My prints are sticking. If I lower the nozzle, so the first layer closes, i cant get it loose after the print. I am using the original bed with the build tak like coating. If i rise the nozzle i can unstick my prints after printing, but the first layer will look like a grid, not closed at all. Any suggestions? :( Printing PLA at 200°C and 50°C on the bed... Energy saving is turned on, because prints are sticking as hell, don't need that extra power on the bed wasted...

Hi I have a question about the parts cooling fan. is it still possible tocontrol the speed via gcode if you use the buck converter? Nice video!

real nice job!

nice very nice!

Perfect video. Really appreciate it. Printer is soooo much more quiet now!

The diversity has 12 channels already

Hello, I just recently discovered this video and has made my life much easier when fiddling with my pro v2. I do have a question though, should the z offset be calculated when both the bed and nozzle at temperature for printing or should it be done when cold?

Is it possible to do serial connections too for the hot end fans so I won’t be using buck converters too? Just like what you did with the other 2 fans?

Great video. I just got this printer but it wont read the files i download from thingiverse, it was only able to read and print the benchy, do you know how to fix it? Thank you.