Thank you! I happened to re-upload those files a few hours ago, so they should show up now (I renamed them from "C#" to "C sharp"). Let me know if they still don't download for some reason.

@@3DPrinty I can see them in the files list, but the ZIP of all files still doesn't seem to contain them.

Oh, I see what happened. Even though I uploaded the new version hours ago, Thingiverse hasn't gotten around to re-processing those files and building a new Zip. I don't believe there's a specific way to kick off that process, so we just have to wait for the site to do its thing. I'll check it again in 24 hours.

Always happy to share the entire process - the good and bad. Unless someone intentionally sets up their lighting to highlight flaws, prints you see in videos almost always look less perfect in person.

When the bottom lid is opened, it rotates so that one half of the lid pushes into the chest while the other half rotates out. The side of the door that pushes into the chest can only move if the two sliding latches are moved out of the way through the puzzle solution. If your door opens anyway, I can think of 3 possible causes: 1. The door is installed the wrong way around 2. The door is installed correctly, but the puzzle isn't in a locked state 3. The door is installed correctly and the puzzle is locked, but the long arms on the sliding latches that are supposed to wedge the door closed are bent or flex too easily. When the door is fully removed, check that the sliding latch arms slide far enough that they can be easily seen through the door frame. You may need to intentionally bend them to force a tighter fit. I hope this helps!

Thank you! The electronic version might be a few videos away, but I announced my intention to really force myself to finally complete an electronics project. I can't back down now! I also plan for it to be a little more than just an instrument... but I'll share more on that later.

I'm glad you noticed :)

Great tip! I'll have to try it out :)

Wonderful! The electronic version will probably have an altered frame... we'll see how it goes!

Thank you! And I'm also looking forward to figuring out how to do it :p

Thank you for remixing and posting :)

Probably less noisy too! The idea I have in mind is very binary, but I'll leave that surprise for later ;)

Ha! I wonder if there's a suitable model of them to display with the piano :)

Nice! Yes, it should be fairly easy to dice up the base within your slicing software and expand it as desired. I've also included STEP files for CAD users that want to take that even further :)

@@3DPrinty I do have several kbd with midi built in, so it won't be made by me. I do hope that someone out there takes up the challenge, as it would be great to see how far the hobbyist segment could take that. :)

In all seriousness, I do plan to sculpt a model based on her in the future :)

You've got this :) 🍀 The holes for the magnets are pretty tight, but a clamp (and maybe some glue) should be all you need. I hope the kiddos enjoy the piano!

@@3DPrinty Magnets are gonna be a few days out from amazon. Thanks for the entertainment and models.

Good luck! Yes, 6x3 and 3x3 are my go-to magnet sizes. I try to reuse those as often as possible so you'll never have to by oddball sizes on my projects.

Thanks so much!

If the box is large enough that the door can slide sideways without bending (like the classic sliding doors in Scifi or a Japanese shoji door) it could fit in a square box. If you want the door to be proportionally large (like in this design) you either need a soft rounded corner for the shutter to slide in or you need to tack on a fake sharp corner to make the box look square even though it secretly has a bend on the inside. I hope that helps!

I haven't made an adaptor for the Hex Wall system yet, but it might happen - either by me or an enterprising remixer :)

That's the 3D printing way!

Thanks for watching - good luck with all your prints :)

I haven't tried it myself, but I have heard others plan to print multiple stacked panels with PETG between each layer. I'm not quite brave enough for that, so I'll keep printing them individually.

@@3DPrinty oh I should try that, thanks!

Sorry to hear that - I've seen a range of results depending on the filament I use (same G-code) and other factors. Check the project documentation for a section titled "Loose Connectors?" for some tips to help :) It's also possible that things will lock in better when you have a full cube assembled, but each connector is supposed to be tight enough to hold on by itself. Good luck!

@@3DPrinty Thank you for the response, it's good to see youtubers and creators that actually care. My bambu labs printers are a little too precise at times. LOL I will make adjustments now that I know how it's designed. BTW the speed of the A1 mini is great for these little test prints. LOL Love your stuff! I had so much fun with your gift boxes!!! I could go on and on....

Good luck with your next round of connectors. I also have a remix in the works for TPU locks that are a good option for assemblies that you don't intend to take apart often.

Absolutely! Even though I liked the window option, merging the tracks right into the panel could be a very nice remix. I might revisit that in the future, or someone else could beat me to it :)

It's inevitable :)

That's awesome! If you post your results, I'd love to see how the custom parts and lighting turned out :)

That's a great idea! I see those at every convention, but are those grid displays standardized? I'm certain I could make something that could hang on the horizontal wire and slide left and right as needed. The trick is the vertical spacing. Maybe some sort of hanging hook with an adjustable length... I dunno, I'll definitely look into it when I update this project again.

​​@@3DPrinty "Standardized" is a tricky word to use here. There's tons of manufacturers of those panels and the connectors. Yet they all seemingly play together. I think the connectors work with a "close enough" principle. The panels are all going to be around 12in with a similar outer wire gauge. I believe I've seen some that are a little bigger or a little smaller, but it's hard for me to imagine there's more than an inch in difference. I think I've also seen some with a thick outer wire and some that don't. Also there's versions of these panels out there that have a sheet of plastic tethered to the outer wire rather than the inner wires. And the inner wires can be different in number and spacing as well. There definitely variation but they're all close enough that I've never seen anyone differentiate when they stack them. Your best strategy for compatibility is to concentrate on grabbing the corners in a similar way to the connectors. Some of the connectors will have multiple divots in them that could seemingly compensate for differences in manufacturing, but most of them are just sloped to tighten on whenever you shove in there. If your panels are the right thickness there's a chance they might slot in there like anything else. That would be ideal. Tho be honest I always kind of hated a lot of the connectors. So if your system has a better way of grabbing on to panel, then that might also be ideal. Personally It's hard for me to say what would be the best approach. I never liked the 1in cube thing. And I hate it in home decor. I think it's a bad size for home shelving. But I respect the functionality it has for convention vendors and artists.

Erm

Welcome! I release a new video every 2 weeks, so... I guess I need to get back to designing :)

Very interesting! Maybe I should revisit my old "3D printed rolling storage box" design... TECHNICALLY, you could break it apart and rebuild it by pushing out the filament hinges, but I could probably make something a little easier to adjust of the fly.

@@3DPrinty I don't know why but the idea of being able to print all the pieces "flat" and then build each compartment then assemble the whole thing together kinda like legos or k'nex just tickles my brain lol. plus you'd have all the other holes to add whatever other "pegs" or magnets into for the compartments and whatnot. I have no idea if the dimensions would work since the rolling of it would need each section to be kinda specific in shape....

My guess is because the panels are not much thicker than filament it may not be strong enough. But, since he releases everything as step files you could try yourself.

It’s 24 gauge wire

Believe it or not, an earlier version of the hinge did exactly that! Unfortunately, I had to abandon that idea because there wasn't enough room to fit the filament AND keep the hinge flush with both sides of the panel :(

@@3DPrinty I believe it. You're an incredible designer, so I didn't hold hope I was educating you.

Thank you! I hope it results in lots of creative displays :)

I feel it's all in the spirit of 3D printing - a hobby that only took off when people collaborated to make printers available to everyone :)

Thank you! Design is an iterative process that only ends when you run out of time :)

Thanks so much! Good luck with your prints :)

That's a remixed version of the puzzle by Venice3D www.printables.com/model/874237

@@3DPrinty is there an extra piece, the photos show a similar core shape to the original but in your video core looks round like the dials?

The overall form, including the core shape, is the same. The difference you see are mostly there to make it possible to print and assemble the puzzle from individual parts.

I'm glad to hear it! Best of luck with your brainstorming :)

I'm glad you like it! A few years later, I designed a 6-sides rollup dice box that might interest you - especially this version with deeper bins: www.printables.com/model/446355

@@3DPrinty You sir, are the very best! Keep up the amazing work! <3