Great video sir, not many people would do a teardown and rebuild, thank you.

this is the quality you get when you are to cheap to monitor your child labor appropriately

How’s the power and fuel efficiency on these little diesel engines? Compared to the same size gas motors

At first I was terrified this was going to be another shoe-less level life hack but it looks pretty good

thrifty and handy, good job. probably check the rpm rating and stay out of the radial spray zone though, speed should be less of a problem with worn down discs.

That's. Noisy. .can't. Drive. That. Hungover. Lmao 😊

I know this is an older video but do you happen to have a link to that intercooler?

The long sigh……

That sucks

Did I see on speedometer 390,000 miles on it ? .....That's Dependable TOYOTA ! YAY

Everyone knows you can cold start a diesel especially with either but why not plug her in and glow plug her so you can keep it running longer it was never about having to do it but that it helps it last longer

Better to feed the ether while cranking. Remember less is more!

Ole harvest king

Only bsd thing if you keep using car will have sn expensive habit lol😊 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🙂✌️

I peraonally like spraying right where it needs to go and use an 1/8 of what you use with a faster start up but..thata just me

Its over its addicted now.

Ford ranger…… 🛻

that music in the beginning 😂

Sounds like a combine!

Nice starts beater than my 6.5 in the cold 😂

I was hoping for a little more excitement

i but intercooler for this engine befor 13 years i but the cooler on the engine and i cut the engine cover to make enter for the air

Is this a Wabco grader?

Sadness😢

Miss them ole Jimmy's most people don't have a clue how many trucks and pieces of heavy equipment had Detroit's

Hear that loud desil knock sounds like lack of fuel or rod or piston beat out

GENIUS 😊

Low compression is the problem.

I didn’t know GM makes Detroit.. why does that motor have a GM stamp on the side if it’s a Detroit?

It's alive!

I've got the EXACT same setup in my 1971 Galion grader. I've got a trick for you I learned from a Maritime tugboat forum that works everytime WITHOUT ether. Sit in your cab and crank the engine with the throttle all the way off for about 20-30 seconds(Some engines need more time depending on engine health), this builds cylinder heat. Then after the cylinders are good and hot just crack the throttle open about 15-25% and it should fire up respectably without revving to the moon and without packing it full of starting fluid. Works everytime for me. I went through the same thing you did for months trying to get that thing to start nice and finally found that process from I think a Baltimore tugboat captain. Just watch your exhaust and make sure you're not getting any smoke as you crank initially. If there's fuel dumping into the cylinder all you're doing is cooling the cylinder. Crank it to heat it up then hit it with the fuel and it'll fire up like it did in 1968.

"Starting fluid" is worthless anymore because of regulations about "denaturing" the ether so someone doesn't huff it. So they pump it full of propane and "top cylinder lubricant." it's dangerous because it doesn't evaporate quickly and can puddle until the engine starts and inhales it. My old 6V71 took 1.5 cans to start if it was 20 degrees Fahrenheit. With an ether start system installed with the screw on PURE ether bottles, it takes 2 to 4 cc! One bottle (same size as hand held propane torch) lasted 2 years using it to cut wood almost every day in winter! That new garbage is almost assuredly gumming up the airbox drains. Pull those rectangle covers on the side and see how much gunk is in it and make sure the little drain tube in the block is open. Not doing so insures a short life from condensation and gunk being injested. Some older Detroits have low pressure "crown style" 650 psi injectors. They usually have an "H" on them. If so, you can exchange yours for a small fee for rebuilt ones in any flavor you want and get some N series, say an N70 3,000 psi in it. I will be a night and day difference. They are like the old 426 race hemis, they want you to RTFM "Read The "Furnished" Manual" and do a little maintenance, like keeping the rack and valves set right, but the rewards are worth it. (New N, C, or M injectors would work, slightly different timing) you can usually pay a little more $ to get a matched set, they will be marked with a calibration letter on the box, say, A,B,or C, to indicate exactly where in the acceptable tolerance of fuel flow it was. Hypothetically, A may be 68 cc while C is 72. That's only if you are being anal and they have enough on the shelf to choose from. Set injector timing at 1.465" carefully with CALIPERS instead of the innaccurate factory gauge. more is later timing (bad) Bigger the number the more fuel. My loader has C65 in a 240 hp 6V71. N70 is in the factory 8V71 318hp NA motors. That should give you close to 159 hp if everything else is equal (big question). Also, unlike almost any other Diesel, these engines have a built-in EMERGENCY AIR SHUT-OFF! There is absolutely NO excuse for a runaway Detroit, because of this and as one commenter said you can directly access the fuel rack and bypass the governor. All other mechanical injection pumps have a fuel rack or device but can't access them. Pull the valve cover and move the rack it should spring back. Bar over the motor one or two turns and try again. If any injectors stay stuck down gently work with them until they free up. The air shut-off is the little lever and trip on the blower inlet. Before starting any Detroit 2 cycle you don't know, and at every service, work and oil it, and the control in the cab for it. If it doesn't have control, install one. They are no more prone to a runaway than any waste-a-stroke 4cycle Any Diesel injection system that has had the shut-off reset to the run position is in wide open throttle until the engine comes up to idle speed. Any corrosion that gets in can stick it. That's why at the tractor scrapyard and whenever I start ANY Diesel for the first time, I'm waiting with a SOLID object, like a good clipboard to slam over the intake! Got a neat smoke ring on the bottom of my plastic coffee mug from a rebuilt 4020 Deere engine with a NEW pump on it that ran away on the dyno when the operator started it. I calmly reached over and set it on the intake opening, let it die, peeled it off, waited for everyone to come back into the room, took a sip and said "that's why you assume nothing and ALWAYS hook up the air shut-off! A CO-2 extinguisher works well directed into the intake. use STRAIGHT 40w Detroit Diesel certified oil for best results, you can order it thru Napa. It won't blow up tomorrow or next year on 15w40, but it will drink more, leak more, and Detroits DO NOT want Zinc in the oil because it gums up the rings. If you use 15w40, add a fair amount of Lucas oil stabilizer. It will help it not to pump oil into the airbox. I have WHITE Detroits with no oil leaks, although a little weeping from the airbox drains is normal. Puddles of oil from them isn't. Get it right, and like a fire pump tech told me "we love those Detroits, they start when they shouldn't, and are the only engines that can constantly go from cold to full load instantly and survive, (don't do that!) And, they will keep running with more wrong with them than any other engine" they make more bottom end torque when not nutted for emissions than anything else, it's just that as a two stroke V8 or V12 in place of a brand x 6cyl 4 stroke it just doesn't SOUND that way. They like to scream! limit idling, they drink oil past the valve guides a little if no exhaust back pressure, that's intentional to lubricate the valves. Keep the air cleaner clean so it doesn't suck oil past the blower seals. The problem with a Detroit is that they are dirt simple, but they ain't a rock, so you have to be smarter than a caveman to get the most out of one. But if you do, you and your grandkids will be running that same engine being heard a county away making asses of any other engine of the same cubic inches! P.S. it's not supercharged. It's scavenged. You can put a 14-71 race blower on the side and lose hp. It just blows in the bottom and straight out the exhaust valves, which close AFTER the bottom ports. Oddly, turbos work on them partly because of backpressure keeping the charge in the cyl. Yea, I'm a book writing Detroit nut. I also have had or worked on, old Cat, Cummins, Perkins, IH, JD, true Ford, Lister, Yanmar, Kubota, Buda, Continental, Hercules, Mack,VW, Nissan, Iveco, Landini, Mercedes and toro-flow GMC. They're all great. I like old Detroit 2 stroke and Perkins engineering and quality best .😊

You don't like that diesel engine do ya

The ether valve by the blower is to dump the marvel mystery oil in so it starts easier yet.

Ouch

Bout like me in the morning.. cept its coffee not ether😂

Injection pump shaft key

So mechanical

A Jimmy always sounds nice and smooth screaming

Sir you were so lucky when a Detroit has been sitting for a while you take the valve cover off and put a pair of vice grips on the rack just in case the motor runs away

Them valves hurt me 😅

And what will you do if the fuel rack sticks open? Always have a plan ready for old Detroit Diesels if they have been sitting a long time or internal engine work done prior to trying to start. Most of the time these loose fuel prime from leaks in the system and that's why your needing starting fluid.

Blower shaft mite be broken and blower not turning

Always the same shit noise. When you spray ether it sounds like they took the engine apart and threw them in randomly. I once had a Ford 6 cylinder Blaw Knox finisher engine punctured with ether.

Holy rod knock

😬 my face when he impacted that tap

Sooouunds.......healthy......😮

I feel like you’re just avoiding fixing whatever is broken. Engines should not need starting fluid 😂

Maybe it’s just my early 60’s Perkins diesel but after a long sit it cranks faster and starts quicker with the #1 injector cracked open.

She's an addict now