Thanks mate, this build is still ongoing. The paint ended up in disaster so we’re having to completely respray it now.

You are correct, the grill is HT, but as someone mentioned in the comments already, this thing is an amalgamation of a bunch of H series Holden’s. So many armatures worked on it before we got it, I don’t even trust the build plate!

In theory yes, the cover is only meant to come off when you remove either the head or the sump. I was lazy and did it the extreamly dumb and risky way. Dont be like me, remove the sump or the head.

Hey mate, I can’t say what’s correct for your engine. It’s been over 5 years since I’ve worked on a Mercedes and I only ever did this one repair. If you followed the steps and it’s still leaking, I would start looking at warped head or block surfaces or maybe your leak is from somewhere else. I would also recommend selling your car as they are terrible and buying a Corolla or something else more reliable and mechanic friendly.

I'm pretty sure I explain it in the videos but here it is again: The oil and water were mixing. I miss diagnosed it as a blown head gasket. Once i found a good condition head gasket i kept looking for an issue and found that the oil cooler was broken. This oil cooler allowed both fluids to mix. Once i replaced it and put in a new head gasket i noticed that the water was still getting into the oil but the oil was not getting into the water. After a bit of research, it seemed that the water pump O-rings were the likely cause of this issue. I removed the water pump and found that the O-rings were worn out and poorly fixed with some plastic and silicone. I then completed the repair you see in this video twice because i damaged the O-ring the first time. After the repair was successfully completed, the mixing of oil and water stopped. Any other questions?

@@FuryGarage thats what exactly happened to me. 1. I changed the head gasket. 2. Then i had to change the oil cooler(an obvious leak). But still i can see milshake on top of the oil cap (but no milkshake on dipstick) . No smoke. No engine heating issues. Just sweet smell. And reducing oil level and water level. So i think these O rings are the last thing to do.

Hey mate, I have no idea, I sold this car years ago and don’t play with merc’s anymore.

Thanks for the kind words, i don’t know if they would fit your car. My understanding is the c34 stagea shares its awd floor pan with the c33 laurel. I don’t know if it would fit a c35 chassis. Good luck and let me know how you go!

Hey mate, the bracket came out of a manual stagea shell. The handbrake itself came from an r33 gtst. Are you having a hard time sourcing a bracket?

Thanks for the reply bro! Nah not at this stage I was just making sure I was shopping for the right one. Allways done cefiro laurels etc with r32 brackets new to the r33 c34 etc conversions was assuming the 33 bracket was what I would need just wanted to confirm with someone that had done one

Well, for clarifies sake: I removed the bracket out of a c34 manual stagea and welded it into my auto c34 as seen in the video. But the hand brake handle was already in my stagea when I bought it and I was told it was from a 33.

Thanks for your comment. If you watch all the repair videos, this car had several issues and that was one of them.

@@FuryGarage I'd believe that too. I retract my comment.

Glad to hear it mate! And yeah, she’s still alive. Needs some attention though, other projects and life have gotten in the way as usual.

Hi, thanks for the comment, as I am not a professional Mercedes mechanic with a well equipped workshop it took me maybe 4/5 days to do this job start to finish figuring it all out along the way. So presuming the technician has done the job before and there are no major unforeseen issues, I don't see why the removal of the head and the refitting will take longer than two 8 hour days. However, I have nothing to add for how long it would take to replace the valve stem seals. Additionally, all of my above estimations are based on my own very limited experience and may be completely wrong. I hope this helps.

Just checked with the Mercedes accredited garage - he said he'd really want to take the head off, wouldn't be happy trying to shortcut by leaving the head on and doing the put-rope-inside-the-cylinders trick to keep the valves up while refitting the seals like I'd hoped. Even so he was happy to agree 2 days should see it done. He did suggest though, maybe my engine's smoking on startup not because of valve seals, but because of worn turbo bearings, which would be a bit quicker to fix. I understand most of the M271's had superchargers but mine's one of the later ones they did put a turbo on instead. He said he's never seen a M271 that needed valve stem oil seals, guess that's a good sign. Anyway you're a star for making the vid. Nice 1 thanks :)

Thanks mate! I'm glad my ramblings were funny to someone other than me!

I don’t believe so. The seals just don’t last forever.

When my cclass gets to 80degrees or half gauge temp, and I give it a little rev to 2k rpm.. I hear water that sounds like its moving about under the dash.. is this the seals for that ? Sounds like an under filled cooling system water rush about..😂😂

Thanks mate!

I just found it online, eBay maybe?

@@FuryGarage does it have all repairs? like how to remove the kompressor and intake manifold?

Kind of, it’s more of a rough guide than a perfect step by step book.

Sorry I’m not perfect mate, I was learning as I was filming.

The broken one inbetween the cylinder and water passage

I cant find a name or replacement anywhere

No, sorry mate. Your local Merc dealer should be able to find them for you.

@@FuryGarage not such thing in the ozzie outback 😅😂 but managed to get merc online catalogue and get the part number.✌️

@@Rando97531 an you share the part number

@@Rando97531 Yes please please, share the number. My engine is wallowing outside the car in an open.

Yes, once water mixed with the oil thats when i replaced the water pump o-rings.

O-rings da bomba de água. Boa sorte, amigo!

It sounds like bent valves but I can’t be certain. Maybe a bore scope or a compression test is a good starting point. Good luck!

No, I believe they are torque to yield and cheap to replace. So I recommend you replace them.

It’s got another blown transmission currently so it’s parked up and waiting for a new one again.

Thanks for the offer mate but I think she will stay in our stable for some time to come!

Sorry mate not sure. Best to check with a coolant pressure tester. Otherwise it might be a good idea to get a professionals opinion before you start replacing things. Good luck!

I paid around $800 for these back before the company who sells them was forced to increase the cost due to factors that are out of their control.

Thanks for the kind words! I did this job back in 2018/19 so I have no idea. But as it’s a Toyota I’m gonna guess a 17mm or a 19mm? Good luck mate!

80 series radius arms up front with a 3 link in the rear and twin arb air lockers. One of the most capable rigs on 33’s that has put comp trucks to shame!

@@FuryGarage would love to see more of it in action

I’ll see what I can dig out of our archives later in the year.