cumminsdieselgt

Пікірлер

@d.c.2916 Күн бұрын

I know I'm 3 years late into this awesome video...I am working on a John Deere 4276T that has a questionable Stanadyne DM4427HB2915 very much like the Roosa Master in this video...by chance would you happen to have a hard copy of the removal and installation procedure available? Thanks for posting great videos!!!

@ivanfontaine8855 17 күн бұрын

had my pump on my 185 allis rebuilt, Got the old parts from the pump back.the old brass center came back with the parts so i cut the old brass center in half and shortend it bout an inch buffed the corners with some fine sand papper then lubbed it clamped those rubber o rings with that and slid the pump on . worked pretty slick.

@clintchopping2116 Ай бұрын

Good job where do you get that seal guide tube ? Would like to purchase one !

@Andrew-ig7wy Ай бұрын

Did your rear PTO still function with the broken switch? My rear PTO functions, but cannot get the mid PTO to work.

@cumminsdieselgt Ай бұрын

Unfortunately, I didn't check the rear PTO. I would imagine it shouldn't work either because they both are supposed to be engaged with that switch. Does your switch light come on when you engage the switch?

@Andrew-ig7wy Ай бұрын

@@cumminsdieselgt yes the light on the switch functions only with the rear PTO. Cannot get the mid/rear or mid PTO to function. Just trying to play the process of elimination. Unfortunately doesn’t sound like the switch for me. Maybe reverse safety switch or PTO solenoid?

@cumminsdieselgt Ай бұрын

@@Andrew-ig7wy Check the switch under the seat which shuts off the mid PTO if you push the pedal for reverse. It may not be operating, or the reverse pedal linkage could be out of adjustment.

@clayrowe7560 2 ай бұрын

thanks for the video great job 👍🏻

@cumminsdieselgt 2 ай бұрын

Thank you!

@litner5640 2 ай бұрын

How you like that exhaust brake

@cumminsdieselgt 2 ай бұрын

My Pac Brake is phenomenal. Best accessory I ever added to the truck!

@huskers2b1 2 ай бұрын

Thank you for producing such a great video, Very informative!

@aliasrex9183 3 ай бұрын

Disregard my previous question. You answered it in a previous post. Thanks for your great video.

@aliasrex9183 3 ай бұрын

I'm watching your video from three years ago and I have the same JD Roosa pump installation that I'm trying to complete after rebuilding the pump with a new weight basket. At the point you have the pump close to the mounting surface you run into difficulty getting the pump to go all the way in. It's held off about 1/8th of an inch. What did you do to get the pump to flush up with the mounting surface? You skipped that part in the video.

@cumminsdieselgt 3 ай бұрын

I had a friend videoing me do this. And I'm sorry he didn't have the camera on for that part. Here's a brief explanation. I put the washers on the mounting studs, and started the nuts onto the studs. I've turned them up finger tight against the pump mounting flange. After I made sure that I was lined up properly (in time), I made sure I had lubrication on the o-ring around the pilot tube, then slightly turned the pump back and forth while pushing it into the engine. When the pump went flush against the engine mounting surface, then I was able to "finger tighten" the nuts to the pump, make my final timing adjustments, and tighten the pump mounting nuts. You don't want to force the pump into the engine by using the nuts to pull the pump up flush against the engine. If It is not exactly in time, it can damage the pump by possibly breaking the front housing of the pump, or causing internal damage to the injection pump. As long as you know the only thing holding the pump back is the pump mounting o-ring, you can snug the nuts up little by little and you should be okay.

@aliasrex9183 3 ай бұрын

Thank you!!

@cumminsdieselgt 3 ай бұрын

@@aliasrex9183 I do hope that helps in some way. Best wishes and good luck to get it running great again.

@user-fv8gj8ll6c 9 ай бұрын

You completely skipped the pre-removal timing procedure..possibly the most important part?

@cumminsdieselgt 9 ай бұрын

You can time it to remove it first, which is the optimal procedure. However, the majority of our customers at the fuel shop have already removed the pump and did not time it up first, prior to removing their pump. I based this upon their experiences. And you are correct. I love to time them before removal.

@bradpitel1517 10 ай бұрын

Good video, looking at getting one of these to plow snow in the midwest. What's your thoughts if you would have pushed back the now on each side of the driveway another 3 feet? With having it being stacked up from the first pass.

@cumminsdieselgt 10 ай бұрын

Probably could have, but my asphalt is about 3" above the yard beside it. If I dropped the wheels off the driveway, the cutting edge in the center of the plow would be cutting the asphalt. It suited us just fine to able to get out like we did... Thanks.

@bradpitel1517 10 ай бұрын

@@cumminsdieselgt thanks! I appreciate the quick response!

@cumminsdieselgt 10 ай бұрын

@@bradpitel1517 Most welcome!

@jimalford3402 Жыл бұрын

Wow, very helpful sir. Thank you! Mine broke with about 400 hours. At least that's what I hope it is. I'll let you know.

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

I hope that's what it is, and will be an easy fix for you! Thanks for your comment!

@user-gh5ot9js9j Жыл бұрын

Thanks sooo much for posting this. I have a 2017 1023E and mine died today after 420 hours. Tried to figure how to remove dashboard first, then found this. Have 5 acres needs mowing, ordered part online will be here Tuesday. Piece of cake!

@davidschliebe246 Жыл бұрын

What's that noise

@yourdaddy6109 Жыл бұрын

Learned nothing

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

Sorry you didn't see it holds in gear without the RPMs jumping up high when it misses a positive shift. If you don't drive one, you may not learn that nuance. Thanks.

@dustinhanoum Жыл бұрын

Do you have to set up advanced timing after every rebuild?

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

When the pump is being calibrated on the test stand after being overhauled, ne of the specifications require that the advance mechanism is adjusted at the proper RPM for the proper degrees of advance with the proper throttle percentage. Then once you get the pump back after calibration, it performs as it did when new. No further advance adjustments should be made to the pump.

@HighCountryRambler Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video. On both sides of the banjo fittings are those the supplied rubber washers or copper washers? When I removed my pump on the 570A grader it had both copper and rubber washers on both sides. Thanks for the informative video, really helped out.

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

Those washers are to be steel washers of the correct material to not only provide proper sealing, but also a controlled amount of compression. If the banjo screw were to bottom out in the threaded bore, then it could lock the head and rotor of the pump and destroy the pump. Be sure to be only use only the genuine Stanadyne part for these banjo washers. In my career, I have seen all types of things people tried to use, and usually damaging more than they fixed by using an incorrect part.

@dDayye Жыл бұрын

When you put the pin in the flywheel how can you be certain it's on the compression stroke instead of the exhaust stroke? 180 degrees out in other words?

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

If you put the pin in the flywheel before you remove the pump, then you simply line up the lines in the window of the side of the injection pump first when the pin goes in. Then you will be on top dead center compression stroke number one cylinder. If your injection pump has already been removed, and you don't know if the engine is at TDC number one, you can remove the valve cover and make sure that the number one cylinder rocker arms are free (proper valve lash is evident) when the pin goes in the flywheel. Another way is to remove the number one injector, put your finger over the hole and listen for compression coming out of the hole when you're turning the engine over just before the pin goes in. Finally, if you have your injection pump, with the throttle lever tied in WOT position, remove the side cover and use a CLEAN, wide bladed screwdriver to carefully rotate the pump until the lines index up in the pump side timing window. Look into the pilot tube of the pump to see where the dot is indexed in the slot. You must have the drive shaft indexed in the same "clock" so that the pump will go on and keep the lines lined up in the side window of the pump. If not, rotate the engine 360° to get the dot on the drive shaft to line up with the dot inside the pump. Then the pump will go on, and the timing lines in the side window will stay indexed.

@dDayye Жыл бұрын

@@cumminsdieselgt ok thanks

@rafaellyon6808 Жыл бұрын

excellent video thank you for sharing

@erictyner2162 Жыл бұрын

When you put it back together do you make sure the dimple marks are lined up on the inside the pump and in the end of the pump shaft? I have a 410 backhoe giving me fits rite now.

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

Yes, that keeps the pump from being 180° out of time.

@jessewallin3935 Жыл бұрын

Hey so I have a John deere 4020 and when I time the engine TDC with the mark on the flywheel and mark on the bell housing the injection pump timing marks are not quite lined up. Can you pull the pump with the marks not quite lined up? Or do you go off of the pump window marks instead of the flywheel marks?

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

How far apart are they? And why are they not in alignment? I would have to do some investigating as to why after having the pump properly calibrated. If the crankshaft is on TDC #1 cylinder on compression stroke, it is OK to go ahead and remove the pump. When I put the pump back on, I would align the marks in the pump properly, and check out engine operation from there. Someone could have just missed the marks when they installed it before possibly.

@jessewallin3935 Жыл бұрын

It’s only about 1/16” away and I need to pull the valve cover just to make sure #1 is on compression stroke. The tractor has sit for 4 years without being started and it’s rusty in that inspection window. The engine is pretty wore out and it used to smoke a lot when we used it.

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

@@jessewallin3935 Good idea to be absolutely sure.

@julesw7996 Жыл бұрын

Where did you buy it? Can't find it anywhere

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

From my dealer. Have you checked on line, at the www.greenpartstore.com ?

@julesw7996 Жыл бұрын

OMG! Thank you!!! Mine stopped working at 107 hours. I'll order a new one ASAP

@edstevens9357 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for your video. Just changed mine at 175 hours. $10 dollar switch in a $90 box. Gave you a sub and the like button

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

Thanks, very much! Hoped the video would help some folks!

@josephcavalieri9103 Жыл бұрын

Without this video I'd be lost. The best and most complete one I've found. You got a fan. Much obliged.

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much. I put it out there so it might help somebody else and spread the knowledge that I have after working fuel injection for 49 years

@joshuamast5128 Жыл бұрын

They have Ben like that for decades I had a dryer the dahm handle broke off within a year I have leg and Samsung appliances now

@taylorakins5230 Жыл бұрын

Love the video keep them coming I was over there today

@vLabBook Жыл бұрын

I’m on my second switch after 230hrs

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

I followed other video instructions to remove the cover under the seat, and disable the switch that requires you to hold the PTO switch on to keep the deck engaged while backing up. I personally have no issues with mowing while backing up, as I owned a Deere commercial zero turn mower for years. On that zero turn, once the deck is on, it runs no matter your travel direction. You just have to be safe when operating any machinery!

@jeepwm69 Жыл бұрын

This was very informative. @cumminsdieselgt , I'm trying to install on a 2640 deere. At the 15 min mark or so you rattle the pump around a bit trying to get it all the way onto the shaft, and then the camera cuts off, and when you cut it back on the pump is all the way on. Is there a trick there or am I just not holding my mouth right? Both shaft at TDC and pump with timing mark centered are at about 11 oclock, but for the life if me I can't get the pump that last 1/2" up on the shaft.

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

I'm getting ready to do another video on another Deere tractor. But meanwhile, just, be sure that the throttle is still tied wide open. Next check to make sure that the driveshaft will go all the way into the pump by making sure the opening in the pump is clear and the governor thrust sleeve is centered in the bore. Then make certain the driveshaft seal is not "lipped" over in order to prevent fuel from getting in the crankcase, and from damage occurring to the pump's bronze pilot tube. Be sure the shaft and slot in the pump are timed so that the slot on the shaft will index into the dot in the slot. You may have to wiggle the pump a bit to get the slot to index with the tang on the driveshaft, and at the same time get the o-ring around the front pump pilot to go into the pump mounting pilot on the timing case. It takes a bit of patience and diligence, but you can get it.

@jeepwm69 Жыл бұрын

@@cumminsdieselgt so "hold your mouth right" LOL. I've been careful with the umbrella seals, throttle is wired back from the rebuilder. Getting the pump up all the way onto the shaft is the issue, and I think it's getting that shaft end lined up in the slot. The shaft coming out of the engine is a bit floppy and that makes it difficult as well to work the pump around to try to get it to slide into place. Thanks for the reply. I'll keep messing with it and keep an eye out for your next video!

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

@@jeepwm69 I guess that would be a good plan. Patience and remembering that the shaft has to be a tight fit to properly keep the pump in time to the engine.

@jeepwm69 Жыл бұрын

@@cumminsdieselgt Pretty sure I got it on this morning. Didn't have time to bleed the system completely, so will try that after work and see if it runs. I got the pump lined up and was fairly certain the shaft was lined up in the pump, but I still couldn't get the pump to slide into the case. Turning the pump on the shaft saw the timing marks move, so I gently snugged a nut on there and used it to pull the pump flange ring into the gear case. Didn't take much pressure at all to do it, and after the flange was up flat against the gear cover, I was able to move the pump back and forth, line up the timing marks, and snug it down. Looks like it wasn't the shaft/pump lining up that was the issue, it was just the pump flange surface and Oring was really tight fit in the drive gear casing. Thanks for your help!

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

@@jeepwm69 Yes, it can be a bit of a bear at times! Sounds like you got it though....Good work....

@Dirt_Merchant Жыл бұрын

I just ordered the ATS block and solenoid upgrade with the Borg Warner and got the Suncoast transducer kit. I’m hoping this fixes the 1-2 drag out and searching.

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

Good luck, and best wishes. I now have 160k on my clock, still working great, even towing a 28' ATV/Car hauler from time to time.

@onehundredpicks5531 2 жыл бұрын

Get on it man. I wanna see full throttle shifts.

@h.ofl3503 2 жыл бұрын

I have a 2017 Polaris ACE 570 I bought 2 years ago in great shape. I have a big driveway and long sidewalks on two sides since I'm a corner house. I used to use a push single stage snow blower when we got snow but it was useless when we got more than five inches of snow. So I bought a used Craftsman 2 stage self-propelled snowblower about the same time as I bought my Polaris. I bought a plow for the Polaris to. In the past 2 years my area has not received any real snow falls an inch or two at the most. All you needed was a broom to get it clean. Then last Monday we got a good storm over a foot of snow. I went out the day before just to make sure the snow blower was working and it started right up after I put some gas in it. I let it run for a while then shut it down. The next day I went out clear the driveway in my sidewalks I always do my neighbor too. I could not get the snow blower to start I took the car off clean that all up and you plug in but still would not start so I figured I'll just use the Polaris. That started up it was running great. I made a couple passes and then my winch broke. I could not raise the plow. Spent a couple hours trying to get to work with no use. So I ended up back to the shovel. The motor was blown on the winch so I had to replace that and I got the snow blower running the next day too.if it happens again I'm going to use both for target practice.

@palcalder 2 жыл бұрын

I've spent many hours finding and watching KZbin videos on the Roosa Master pump removal, overhaul, and reinstall. Your presentation of removal and reinstall is by far the best of all the examples I was able to find. I removed, replaced the seals, and reinstalled the pump on my JD450CC crawler/dozer with success. Thank you so very much for taking the time and effort that went into this video. I'm a grateful fan.

@cumminsdieselgt 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much. It makes me glad that I could assist in some small way!

@trr1984 2 жыл бұрын

I have to echo the thanks for your all your effort and knowledge in providing the best and most complete removal and installation of a rotary fuel pump (particularly the Roosa Master). I must admit I watched the pump installation video at least 4 to 5 times. I had a no start problem with my '67 580CK w/188 engine, that a nephew and I troubleshot to the being the fuel pump. I was nervous after watching your videos and another from a fuel pump rebuilder, with the chance of nicking/lipping the umbrella seals, when to cut the wire holding the throttle open and getting reinstalled and correctly timed. You clearly have tremendous experience and meticulous work habits working with these pumps. THANK You !!! I also liked your magnetic strip for holding tools while working on equipment. Great idea. I seem to always try to balance tools all over the tractor. And I have to agree you on your use of the Stanadyne tool for installing the umbrella seals. I could only find the seal compressing tool, which I got and could not use, given the location of the pump. Frankly your approach of working the seal with your fingers and scribe was better. I did get the seals on with out tool, but using the tool would have made that job much easier and less never racking. Thanks again!

@cumminsdieselgt 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for your kind compliments. I wanted to show as much as I could for folks, so they could do it properly! Best wishes to you!

@ibrahimyusuf9738 2 жыл бұрын

Rosa master is the bomb!

@joejorden4991 2 жыл бұрын

replaced now getting error code???

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

Did you find the problem?

@m118lr 2 жыл бұрын

SURE DO appreciate your ‘painstaking’ meticulous-ness in making this video. Lots of camera work, labor AND great explanation in the “whys and the hows” for getting that pump off. Thank you!

@TheGrayLifewithJimPearl 2 жыл бұрын

Oh no... 😥

@TheGrayLifewithJimPearl 2 жыл бұрын

Hey you have a channel too. So nice to meet you the other night at the Dur Dutchman. Jim & Pearl

@cumminsdieselgt 2 жыл бұрын

Our Pleasure. My channel is a bit random, and eclectic. Not a vlog, but just certain things that interests me... Look forward to hearing from you folks! Take care.

@robertmortillo 2 жыл бұрын

Ace 325?

@cumminsdieselgt Жыл бұрын

Yes, it is.

@DIY-Dave 2 жыл бұрын

I’m trying to find info on a international 806 wheatland. I believe they have the same injection pump, I think the shaft seals on ours is bad, I’m getting diesel in the oil.

@cumminsdieselgt 2 жыл бұрын

Can you look to see if it is a Roosa Master injection pump on the tag on the side of the pump? Or a CAV pump made under license from Roosa Master? Don't scrape paint off of the tag, as it is aluminum and you could damage the numbers on it. Use CRC gasket remover spray, rubber gloves, and a rag to dissolve the paint off the tag leaving the information intact.

@DIY-Dave 2 жыл бұрын

I will check today when I head back out there! Thanks

@DIY-Dave 2 жыл бұрын

This is what the pump tag says : Roosa master DBGFC 637••3DH 783511 610689•C91

@cumminsdieselgt 2 жыл бұрын

@@DIY-Dave Yep! That's the correct info. Does this engine have a diaphragm mechanical fuel lift pump mounted on the block? Could be that. If not, you can follow the same instructions in this video, open the side cover plate of the pump and see if you have any black specks behind that gasket. If you do then the pump needs to come off and be repaired. Just line up the timing lines in the window of the pump by turning the engine around in the proper direction of rotation, stopping when the lines are perfectly lined up. Do not move the engine while the pump is off. I have seen some pieces of broken weight retainer pieces plug the return fittings, and then the build up of housing pressure causes the seals to wear grooves in the pilot tube of the pump, allowing fuel to bypass the seals. Just saying, it could be more than just the seals. Inspect it carefully.

@DIY-Dave 2 жыл бұрын

No it doesn’t have a lift pump. My last question would be where to get the seals. I will probably try tackling the project this week if I can find the seals. Thank you so much for the help!

@ChristopherFarms 2 жыл бұрын

Just had the same problem today in the middle of mowing. I have about 320 hours but not always using the PTO. Thanks for the video.

@jamesmadison3184 2 жыл бұрын

You forgot to remind us to take pin out of flywheel before starting it. James M

@cumminsdieselgt 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, I did, but after it goes into the notch, if you crank it over, it will push back out and end up under the engine undamaged. JD designed it that way for a reason. Sorry I failed to mention that pointed pin!

@fordnut4914 2 жыл бұрын

Watching this made my anxiety go up.

@JamesWhite-tg4kw 3 жыл бұрын

What happened to the timing part of it

@cumminsdieselgt 3 жыл бұрын

What do you mean? Thanks.

@JamesWhite-tg4kw 3 жыл бұрын

You said you was going to time the pump before removal or you didn't show it in the video. You didn't show putting the timing pin in the hole on the flywheel either

@JamesWhite-tg4kw 3 жыл бұрын

I just finished watching the video where you installed the rebuilt pump I understand now

@JamesWhite-tg4kw 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much very well-made

@alanlashley943 2 жыл бұрын

I was wondering the same. Pin the flywheel first with pump timed and then remove.

@jackrein293 3 жыл бұрын

Another great video...Thank You

@jhoodied4861 3 жыл бұрын

Do I have to rotate the engine to top dead center? Because I don't know how to find it on a International Harvester 606. lol!

@cumminsdieselgt 3 жыл бұрын

With the side window of the pump removed, you can rotate the engine around until the timing marks line up in the window of the pump. Then you might try to tie your throttle wide open with a wire and see if you can remove the pump. Some Internationals you have to pull the driveshaft from the gear train but I would need to know the pump number first

@jhoodied4861 3 жыл бұрын

@@cumminsdieselgt Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to install a Roosa Master DBG pump. I can install the pump to the drive shaft fine. I can then rotate the engine until I see the cam timing mark (Mark towards radiator fan) shows up through the timing window on the pump fine too, but I have NO CLUE if I'm TDC (Top Dead Center). I mean, I assume I am if the pump is level to the ground and the cam timing mark is in the center of the timing window, but I hate assuming. At 17:43 I see how and when you found your TDC. Can I skip that step seeing as how I can't find out how to find TDC on a IH 606?

@cumminsdieselgt 3 жыл бұрын

@@jhoodied4861 Well, it sounds like the pump was removed before aligning the timing marks in the pump window. That would mean, you don't really know that the engine was set in the correct position to reinstall the pump. Think of this pump as nothing but a hydraulic distributor. Much like the distributor on your car, you've got to have an index Mark to know where to put the distributor back on and get it in time. If you have the driveshafts aligned dot-to-dot you have half of the battle over with, Now, we have to get the engine set on the static timing they call for. What model tractor do you have?

@cumminsdieselgt 3 жыл бұрын

@@jhoodied4861 so if you have a 606 or a 656 I'm hoping your engine would be a d282 series. If that is the case some of them were about three degrees before top dead center on the crankshaft and then you line the marks on the pump up and Titan the pump down. If the pump shaft in the pump is dot to dot, with the side window off, turn the engine in the proper direction of rotation by hand until you see the line coming up in the pump. Stop turning the crankshaft pulley at 3 degrees before top dead center. Then tighten the pump down with the marks aligned in the side window.

@jhoodied4861 3 жыл бұрын

@@cumminsdieselgt Again, thanks for your help. Yes, you are correct on the engine type and you're correct about setting it 3° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) on the IH 606. It's just that I don't see any TDC line(s) on the crank pully to match up to the point that comes off on the engine block to get to TDC. According to the manual I have, there's supposed to be a line for TDC, 3° BTDC, and possible 5° BTDC on the crank pully. I really don't want to have to take the alternator and fan off just to see if scrubbing down the side of the cranky pully MIGHT! reveal some sort of TDC line. I'm not sure where to go from here, so I might be SOL.

@jackrein293 3 жыл бұрын

Great video...Thank You!

@farmingforfunandprofit940 3 жыл бұрын

The Injection pump drive shaft is keyed to drive gear..... More simple to remove as unit.....instead of fighting umbrella seals when installing..... might require a small T bar puller. and a propane torch.... worked for Deere most likely what failed is the mylar ring that attaches weight ring to rotating assembly.....Very simple pump

@cumminsdieselgt 3 жыл бұрын

I was a "train the trainer" for Stanadyne/Roosa Master. It takes longer to remove the front cover, and pull the pump that way for me. If you're careful to put them in properly, it's not a problem.

@dDayye 8 ай бұрын

If you pull the pump with the keyed shaft would you still have to time it or not?

@Ham68229 3 жыл бұрын

Mine just quit yesterday, thanks for the info. I've discovered with mine, there's a dowel pin that moves the rocker switch, it's that dowel that's breaking causing the switch to fail. I'm going to attempt to repair this, looks fairly easy to do. Cheers :)

@Ham68229 3 жыл бұрын

You can fix this switch. I ended up drilling a small hole in the center of the rocker switch. Put in a wood screw that holds the contacter arm to the switch. There's a plastic rod from the rocker to that contacter that breaks. Not a difficult fix at all. Cheers :)

Ең жақсы KZbin

Пікірлер