Soon... I just need to write a framebuffer.

Ha I totally should. Especially with the V5 having an LED under every hole, it would seem weird if it *couldn't* play snake. www.crowdsupply.com/architeuthis-flux/jumperless-v5

@@arabidsquid Heeey, also, i wanted to ask: what LEDS you were using underneath the holes?

For the one in this video, I'm using the WS2812C-2020. www.lcsc.com/product-detail/RGB-LEDs-Built-in-IC_Worldsemi-WS2812C-2020_C965556.html For the V5, I'm using xl-1010RGBC-WS2812B www.lcsc.com/product-detail/RGB-LEDs-Built-in-IC_XINGLIGHT-XL-1010RGBC-WS2812B_C5349953.html

@@arabidsquid Oh, thank you! I was searching for these

I actually had a manufacturer make a sheet metal stamping/bending mold for me so they could make special spring clips with solderable tabs and holes for the LEDs. I sell them at cost so other people can make cool breadboard things and not have to spend $5000 on tooling. www.tindie.com/products/architeuthisflux/solderable-breadboard-spring-clips/ If you want to see what that tooling looks like: forum.jumperless.org/t/spring-clip-update/48/3?u=architeuthisflux

That's a 74191, it's an up/down counter. So when I give it a pulse by clicking the button, it counts up or down in the same BCD format that the nixie driver expects. www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74hc191.pdf An Arduino pro mini can do the exact same thing (and 100 times easier to use). I just wanted to do it in old-school 7400 series logic. You'd connect 4 pins from the arduino to the ABCD inputs on the nixie driver and then drive them each high or low to select which number you want lit up. You have all the parts you need (even without an arduino, you can just use jumpers to 5V or GND to set numbers if you want). And nixie tubes themselves are basically indestructible, and 170V sounds like a lot but it has very little current behind it to make it a big deal, especially with a 40K resistor (you might want to try down to 4.7K if it's dim). I would just wire it up and see what happens. Let me know if you have any questions about this stuff, I'm happy to help.

@@arabidsquid Thank you! I'll let you know!

I'm using one of these NCH8200HV power supplies from Omnixie omnixie.com/products/nch8200hv-nixie-hv-power-module They're great and will work down to like 3V. For other things where size and low voltage isn't an issue, I use a cheap clone of one of these omnixie.com/products/nch6300hv-nixie-hv-power-module

Thanks! I also can't wait to have people using them so they can help me find all the bugs I missed. Make sure you're subscribed to updates on Crowd Supply www.crowdsupply.com/architeuthis-flux/jumperless-v5

@arabidsquid Oh, I'd missed that on discord, but done!

Hey thanks!

Is it cheating if I do it myself? I think I'll give people a 3 month head start after it launches.

Thanks! I probably won't make a larger one anytime soon, the cost basically quadruples for a full size breadboard. BUT... this version has a row of daisy chaining pads on both sides so you can stick them side-by-side and route 8 signals (+ power and SPI so they can talk to one another) between boards connected this way. So you can just plug in the rightmost one and treat it like one big Jumperless.

Thank you for justifying my purchase of a $500 Laowa camera lens I just made 15 minutes ago. Right now I'm using a 1970's Vivitar Macro attached to my Sony A7s. To be fair, the arraignment of RGBs and then an aperture (the top of the spring clips) does kinda fuck with your eyes in real life too, but in more of a "bands of rainbowy stuff" kind of way. They're still much more readable/sharp in person. What's funny is putting parchment in front makes it look just like an old Sony Trinitron CRT, because the red green and blue LEDs aren't in the exact same spot, so it splits it into vertical slits of each color. I'm dreading having to break the news to Elecrow that they're gonna need to have to rough up the LEDs with sandpaper like they did with my early V1 prototypes, but I guess now I have to.

Hey thanks! You guessed correctly, it uses 12 8x16 analog crosspoint switches and a lot of messy code to find where there's an available path. Or if it doesn't have a direct path, it'll route through an intermediate crosspoint to find a connection. The readme on the last version (which is generally the same with fewer LEDs) has some explanation about how that all works: github.com/Architeuthis-Flux/Jumperless/tree/main/JumperlessNano Or here's the repo for this version: github.com/Architeuthis-Flux/JumperlessV5

@@arabidsquid Thanks for the info! That's amazing, never thought about doing alternative paths using the available ones, I wonder how you can get enough current to even make power connections, that's dope! Will take a look at the repo, hope I can get my hands in one someday

The trick with getting power connections is to just stack a bunch of connections in parallel. I'm working on some code to have it fill up all the unused internal paths with parallel connections like that to get the on resistance as low as possible. (It's currently ~80 ohms for a single connection, and halves that for every redundant parallel connection)

Right?!

Hell yeah! btw this is actually a firmware update for the current version of Jumperless, you could have one by Thursday. Of course the upcoming V5 is gonna be cooler, but it will be available around late 2024ish, and people who have this current version will get them much (1-3 months) sooner and at a steep (~$150) discount as beta testers.

Don't worry, everyone who has a Jumperless now can be part of the V5 beta, so you'll get it below my cost and ~3 months before anyone else, so we can work out the most annoying firmware issues before launch. I'll announce it on the Discord in a month or so discord.gg/kq4gR9YJ2u And yes, you can have 2.

@@arabidsquid Wow, that's very kind of you. Thanks!

Ha it's the reflection from my video light.

Yeah it totally could! I've been considering writing some audio-specific UI for this to make it more intuitive to use live in a modular synth setup or something. But as it is now, it can absolutely be used that way. If only someone had built an FPGA that could work with +-8V, this would have been sooo much simpler to design.

This was my first time ever using Blender so I may have done this in a totally ass-backwards way; but I took in all the 3D models I already had from Fusion 360 and KiCad, then used a shader node graph setup to make each LED the averaged color of the pixels below it from the video. Totally skipped the classic "doughnut on a plate" tutorial which probably would have made this less of a pain in the ass.

That's one of those things that I was hoping someone who has one would get nerd-sniped into writing firmware for, but when I have some time I'll get to writing a UI for that myself. The hardware's all there to do it, 4 ADCs, 2 DACs, 2 current-sensors, and 4 GPIO that can all be arbitrarily connected. With that, you can measure resistance, capacitance and inductance. So with some firmware, you could simulate quite a few parts by measuring inputs and simulating the expected outputs with the DACs and GPIO (or even alternately connecting rows to 5V and GND for more digital IO.) I'm in the midst of a huge refactoring of the firmware to make it easier for people to write expansions like that without having to know how the rest of the code works.

@@arabidsquid That's awesome. Thanks for getting back to me. I'll be following your project - it's a really cool idea!

Hmm, is something like this what you're thinking of? github.com/Architeuthis-Flux/Barnacle_Board

Pre-launch on Crowd Supply should be live sometime in May. Not exactly sure when it will actually be a thing in your hands, that kinda depends on people's interest. But I'm hoping you'll be able to play with one before the end of the year.

@@arabidsquid thank you :)

Ha yeah you're totally right about that, it works almost exactly like a small telephone network internally. All the early research for figuring out how I was gonna pull this off was research papers from Bell Labs from the 1960's. And yeah, it is a bit pricey due to the analog crossbar switches and power supply for them being pretty niche/expensive. I've genuinely been hoping someone will make a clone that's cheaper than what I can make them for so they're accessible to more people and I can keep making the Jumperless to my standards. Even now, my margin is way lower than what's generally recommended because people using and enjoying a thing that I made is so much cooler than money.

I just have a common ground for everything here. I wouldn't run audio through that "dirty" ground but for this stuff it's totally good enough.

You don't even have to pay top dollar, just regular dollar. You can get one from me here: www.tindie.com/products/architeuthisflux/jumperless/

@@arabidsquidthat’s hilarious man, this thing reminds me of the Boolx Assign.

Ha, I love USB Mini, by now there's just starting to be enough good information and experience out there to consider USC C, but this was designed in the wake of the Raspberry Pi 4's USB C fiasco so I decided it wasn't worth the risk of screwing it up. You can use either one of the 12 bit DACs as a programmable power supply for 0-5V or +-8V, they're buffered though a high current op amp so they can supply 1A (way more than the board can handle.) You could kinda fake a programmable load by measuring the current from the DACs and changing the voltage according to ohm's law, but that's hacky and I wouldn't trust it. One user did it by using the On resistance of the crosspoints and stringing a bunch of connections together to make a resistor. For software, there's now a dedicated desktop app as well, Jumperlab. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHendqqQhLdqfZY Or you can use it without a computer at all with probe mode kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZDSZ35vrttnY5I

Hey thanks!

I do! You can get one here www.tindie.com/products/architeuthisflux/jumperless/

Yes, that is an issue with cheap breadboards. But for this, I had to get breadboard spring clips custom manufactured so they have tabs to solder onto a PCB and holes for the LEDs. So I had them made of Phosphor Bronze which is more expensive but is amazingly springy and won’t deform from putting too big of leads into them. I sell the clips by themselves so people can make their own cool things with breadboards too. www.tindie.com/products/architeuthisflux/solderable-breadboard-spring-clips/