I bought it direct. However, it is no longer in production. The transmission failed after a year and has since been replaced with a Schlumpf Mountain drive

It's a matter of opinion I guess

@@JohnDTrites Opinion? When the gauge is calibrated - example - with a devision half-way between 30 and 45 K/h, what is it, 37.5 K/h? Good luck being able to figure that out on the fly! Dah.

Yes. Opinion. You don't like it, only you have complained, I like it just fine. If you don't, simply don't watch the videos. But, thanks for coming out.

@@JohnDTrites You have 106 subscribers - one. Have fun!

Thanks. I do

Drag increases as a square of the speed. So, the speeds you see with this are really at the 160-180watts. I have sprinted at 300 watts and you get about 5-6km/h more on flat ground; the fastest I ever sprinted on flat ground was 68km/h. It is the law of diminishing returns for speed at that point. I'm sure that those who can put out 500-600 watts can probably get a little over 70km/h, but I would be surprised if much more.

lol. I live in the Maritimes. We do that.

I love it. It is a great bike.

I always lock the Bulk itself with a cable lock through the lift hold. The extra buttons are for the rubber O-rings to keep the hood down when trailering it. The ones further out are to lock it the hood. The cable will not stretch so either the hood or the bike would need to be damaged to get it off. That lock on the hood is in case I have stuff in the bike and it is never parked for very long like that, or out of sight. A determined thief will get it no matter how it is locked. A chain lock can be broken in a few seconds if the bike is parked out of sight. I tried it with the old hood; you don't need to reach them. You pull up on the hood slightly and slide a knife along the length and it cuts the bungies and opens the hood. My solution will not deter a really determined thief, as no locking system will, but it is a better deterrent than using the latches.

@@JohnDTrites Thank you for your clarification, but....While the cable will not stretch much, the hinge of the hood is simply not rigid enough. You can get the hood off without difficulty and without any damage by prying the cable over the button. The hood will move rearward because the hinge that consists of a 5mm shift cable through two holes, is not exactly solid. The reason to prefer the standard, invisible bungees over bungees in the open, is because they are out of sight and it takes some effort to find them and then to work out how to get the hooks off or work out they need a knife. Such strange behaviour might draw unwanted attention towards the perpetrator. Your bungees out in the open.... they see it and it's clear how to get them off easily.

@@twilwel The o-rings are not used when locking the hood. They are solely for holding it down at highway speeds on the trailer. As for the cable, I assure you I have tried it. It will not stretch the 5mm required to get over the hood pins. As for the hinge on the hood, it is brake cable housing, not a shift cable, and it is a very close tolerance. It is very rigid. Even if it is not locked, if you tried to pull the hood off the hinges without removing the brake cable housing, you would damage the hood.

The fasteners: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07W8N6W4X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The Master lock www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XTPNZK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

They aren't. I am looking at the fog city inserts to fix that issue.

There is room. However, you would need to remove the strut. First, the sensor could not be mounted perpendicular to the wheel. There isn't enough clearance between the wheel and the strut, so you would need to see what you are doing. Also, it would be nearly impossible to get the magnet on the wheel and adjusted. There just isn't enough room in the wheel-well for your hands. However, it is not difficult to remove the strut and it only takes about 15 mins to remove and replace.

Thank you! @@JohnDTrites

I did Ron. It was really not bad this time.. Thanks very much for asking.

I don't think so. I have nearly 1200km on the bike since installing it and it just works well. For me it will be an issue of durability and reliability, but so far, so good. However, I do have the original bottom bracket and crankset just in case.

Thanks!

While the WAW seems to be a little loud inside, I was able to hear him okay. You can try the Closed Caption feature, I checked and it's pretty accurate with what he's saying.

The WAW's tank steering is quite good at high speed. The WAW is affected by cross winds, so it can be a bit dicey on a windy day. The steering plates are quite short on the WAW so its steering is very sensitive. However, for me, I like that as it makes it very responsive. The Buelk steering is tiller and quite different. However, I don't find it better at high speed than the WAW's steering although the bike is less affected by the wind.

Thanks Ron. So far so good.

I have a lightweight 4X8 folding trailer. I can carry the velomobiles, my trikes or my wife's kayaks. Its a great option

What brand? If you have a chance, could you show it and how you tie down the velo? Thanks

Will be driving my RV from New Orleans to Maine in two weeks, so I could stop somewhere along the way.

@@dogwood7 Here is the list of Ambassadors for the Buelk and their contact information. Just get in touch with one along the way and they can help you.

Really well. It was a good upgrade. I have nearly 1000km on it with no issues. I set 3000km as the goal before I can say it is durable.

I have a small trailer

It is tank steering so it doesn't feel particularly twitchy. It centres easily and there is a fair bit of resistance in turning it, so it feels solid more then twitchy. However, if you have the wheel covers on, it is affected by crosswinds, and that can be unnerving. I have had it up to 80km/h without any ill-effects, and now that I removed the wheel covers, its is not as badly affected by wind. In short, I haven't found any issues. The Buelk has tiller steering. To be frank, it took me a while to get used to that; moreso than the WAW. However, now that I am used to both, I am also comfortable with both.

You should have no issues climbing moderate hills. As I said in the video; the bike is really stiff so it climbs better than most bikes with lower gears. However, if you did choose to go for an Efneo, you will need to have a bottom bracket made as the Efneo is a BSA30 threaded. However, with the 12-speed 11/52 you wouldn't need to do anything to the rear (I swapped out cassettes from 11/40 to 11/50 and that was a job) and you could go for a 44-tooth where I went with 42 and you'd get the same low gear as I have. And, you'd have the equivalent of three rings 44, 61, and 79 as well as 36 gears.

There are actually not a lot of places you can mount a camera that would show more of the bike. I use a suction cup mount so it needs a flat spot and there are not many on the Buelk

Hi Ron. Thanks very much! The short windscreen was an option from the factory; mini windscreen. It bolts on to the manhole cover with three small wingnuts. I have a spare one. I'll show it in a video soon since I will do one more in-depth about the WAW including how to effectively adjust it for those considering buying one. I think it is a great bike; especially for North Americans where there is not a lot of support maintaining velomobiles. I've never really noticed reflection from the body. Its probably because the blue is dark enough that it doesn't reflect as much, and I only ever use it when it is raining heavily. For light rain or mist, I use the manhole cover without the hood.

@@JohnDTrites Thanks for the reply. I totally agree with you about the ease of working on the WAW. I bought mine used about 3 years ago. I had done a lot of research and it seemed to be the best option for me. I'm a fairly big guy at 6' 205 and at 73 with a muscle degenerative disease, I am not as agile as I used to be. The WAW has allowed me to do work on the inside so that I can get out and has made my hardware changes much easier. I do all of my own work and it has sure been pretty straight forward. I do love that with you, and a couple of other KZbinrs, have fairly reasonable power outputs. Keep up the good work!!

Thanks for posting this video. I ride a city bike most days, 34km a day. I ride through a city part of the way where I have had 5 accidents over 15 years. If I were in a velo mobile, I would not have a scratch. Instead, there was blood left at each scene. What are your thoughts about safety?

@@dogwood7 One of the other velonauts in Minnesota was T-boned at an intersection with a velomobile. He had only minor injuries where he believes he would have been seriously injured or killed if he had been on a conventional bike. His velomobile was written off, but he wasn't; which was the important thing. His video is actually online (kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppzIqmOeZZ2ne6M). What I find is that because the bikes can more easily keep up with traffic, there are less close calls. Also, because the velomobile looks like it has mass, they tend to give it more room. That has certainly been my experience. The shell is strong so I can't imagine that it would not provide significant protection. In addition, you don't fall over, so that in itself is a blessing.

@@JohnDTrites That's a good point. All of my injuries on bicycles have been from falling over. The last one was four months ago when a person opened a car door while waiting for a light. The door hit my bike, causing me to fall onto the curb. It took my body 3 months to recover from multiple injuries.

No. They are not designed for maintenance. However, if one owns a velomobile, they have to be maintained. While I am a bike mechanic, doing these types of upgrades also allow me to learn the best ways of doing maintenance on them.

Yup! The major advantage to the WAW over many other models is its maintainability. There is a still lots of stuff on a WAW that is harder than a bike, but it is relatively easy compared to other velomobiles, and it uses standard bike parts, like wheels, which the Bulk doe not.

I use clipchamp to edit. It is one of the built-in audio tracks and I like it so I use it.

It actually does fine on rough roads. I have the "comfort" suspension so it absorbs the bumps well. However, it has a lot more lean than the tighter suspension would have. But, the cracks don't seem to slow me down much.

Thank you very much for the concern. I am. The largest of the fires, Shelburne County is about 200km away, and the Timberlea fire in Halifax is about 50km away, so we are safe.

Good to know. Thanks

Actually no. The camera is about 20cm off the ground and detects cars at about 150 meters. On the Bulk, it is mounted about 80cm off the ground and I detect cars at about the same distance. The flashing light may b more visible in the higher spot, but the radr seems to work equally well in both locations.

I did. It is a Ghost XL

Good to know Peter. I'll be starting the conversion on the weekend and will be videoing it as well.

They work fine for me. I installed them with the race hood on, so that is worst-case for visibility and I didn't want to be changing them everytime I changed the hood.

You're most welcome

My pleasure. More to follow

You should try driving it!

@@JohnDTrites Looks like fun!. Do u like Windsor? What are the winters like?.

@@angeleye4253 I like it a lot. It is rural but with a small town. The winters are not too cold; especially lately, and not particularly harsh by Canadian standards.

Hi Ron, Thanks for the compliment!. The windscreen is from the factory, and it is removeable. I have used it with the race hood. The bottom of the hood is in front of the mini windscreen, so you can open the visor of the rainhood about 2cms and still not get wet. The drawback is that they fog. However, I used muck-off antifog and it works well. I will film the rack when I do a walk-around of the Bulk. There is a winch and I built an overhead sliding gantry so it can lift the trike off of the platform, and move it to beside the platform to lower onto the floor and vice versa. I'm glad you enjoy the channel. I enjoy making it.

Yes. I have a Bulk coming as well and it will be a speed machine. I love the WAW's practicality and it is a very comfortable machine with a wider range of gearing options than most other machines. The more I ride it, the more I enjoy it.

At the time I ordered it, pre-Covid lock-down, it seemed the best option. The Buelk was still in design, which was the other one I was interested in. The WAW uses mostly standard bike parts and is able to be completely disassembled for maintenance. Given there are not too many bike mechanics who will work on them, that was a big plus. The bike has also been in production for about 15 years, and more than 600 have been produced, which have been refined over the years, so it is a very mature product. Also, it is the only velomobile that has a Pinion gearbox as an option. Three of my four bikes have it, and it is the perfect gear set-up for a recumbent in my area. As for assembly, it came with the rear wheel removed and the tailcone also removed. It required mounting the derailleur, installing the rear wheel (it is a QR hub so no special issues). I had to remove the nose cone to adjust the pedal length, and also shorten the chain. All told it was probably 90 minutes to uncrate and adjust the bike. I was picked up for the Ambassador program for Velomobileworld, so I have a Buelk arriving next week. I will be doing comparisons of the two from the perspectives of driveability, comfort, versatility and maintainability that will, hopefully, help inform people's decisions on a velomobile to buy. There is substantial technical documentation about these bikes, and now that I am a qualified bike mechanic, I will be looking forward to understanding how to maintain these type of velomobiles specifically.

It's a Garmin Virb X and mounted on the turtle deck of the WAW with a RAM mount.