Those tines don't do Squat. Get a Harley rake then grade

Thanks for the video, you could make a mount to hold the flow indicator so the ports are at the top. Then the air will automatically leave the chamber.

Stan, are you for hire? Are you in the US? I need you to engrave my logo in a piece of acrylic using a diamond tip drag bit. Do you have a website? How can I reach you? Thank you, John

What's the engine that you use on this brass marker?

Can you send two models if i buy?

What about engraving natural quartz crystal? which has a hardness of 7. Do you think a drag bit would work?

Are you still making these? Very interested in purchasing one!

So, the implement isn't controlled with a remote originally, right? You added the electrical parts as well? Do you have a link to those?

"They don't want you to use this on a truck....but I'm gonna do it anyway".....lol. I love it. I need to do this. I'm curious why they don't want you to use your truck though.

I want to buy the download file of the previous version "v1"

I want one :) how can I purchase the digital print versionone in Australia

Hey there, Within your video you stated that it came with the motor and controller to raise and lower, though you links show manual. Do you have a good source on where you got your controller?

I’d leave an LoL face but that’s not even funny. Buy a tractor.

Great Video Man. Very Informative. I plan to do the Same on My Truck.. Did the Black Boar Fit the Hitch on your Truck? OR Did you have to Modify it? Please Advise....

Can you make me one of those 3D printed piece for the coin holder I need one for mine

Where did you get the cable extensions to extend the original? Can you provide me a source?

Hello! Im currently working on this project, and I am looking to laser engrave the acrylic. What thickness acrylic did you use, and what laser depth should I be aiming for? I am extreamly excited as I have been working on this in my spare time over the last few months and I am close to done!

When you took out that grate with the holes in it, what did you screw the round flange back to?

Looks good to me! I have a similar setup on my riding mower and that little thing doesnt wanna pull much weight so ive been curious with the truck set up. This looks like it'll work just fine!

💐 'Promo sm'

Thank you for showing all your testing, very helpful

Wow man, people really go to great lengths to avoid getting a real active chiller lol.

Not sure what you mean by that. I am not promoting or selling anything in this video. I have provided the references and download files for free!! I don't make anything from the items I used!

😌 *Promosm*

👍👍 Works as advertised. There is a bit of setup time involved, but that setup time for different calibers should decrease as you understand the optimum contact points. I found that using a allen wrench to tighten(snug) the markers is the ticket to prevent the markers from drifting. Since I'm only working with only one caliber the re-setup should be quick, I marked my pens with reference lines for minimal adjustment when they are removed to placed the caps back on. The Wiz 3D is fast, as fast as you can place the ammo in the slots. As a newbie to the PRS world and just your local range shooting the Wiz 3D is slick. A big thanks to the inventor. 👍👍👍👍

Love this! Just double checking that the assembled machine is indeed the machine itself, as I don’t have a 3D printer.

What's your depth .005?

I am going to buy your Widget Wiz 3D Illuminated Orrery Digital Plans files to support my son's project in his school. But I want to know which 3D software I need to print your files? Could I open files in Blender? Many thanks!

Seems kinda small for that vehicle. How do you like it still?

Doesn't the fact that the temperature has increased to 25 degrees have to do with the flow rate of the pump? Perhaps if your pump moved a higher flow rate, it would help. Another thing that I think can be done is to insulate the hoses so that the cold water does not dissipate. I see that the journey to the laser is long. Perhaps the water does not reach your laser so cold because it travels a very long stretch.

What are you using for the base?

This is amazing work 👏

Is it all 3d printed? Or are there some non-3d printed parts

Nice video. If you like to have a more constant cooling and dropping the temp lower, just let the icing machine do its work and generate ice in to the water at the pump and it will cool alot better <3

Assembled version is now available on web site. www.widgetwiz3d.com/

awesome now please market them

That's awesome.

hello can we have this update of the cog for people who bought the old files? Cordially

Outstanding!

Interesting! I've been thinking of using a plate wort chiller that I have for cooling

How does the inkbird work with the icemarker ? Beacuse when it turns it off and on don't you have to still put it on manually?

Thank you for putting this together. I've got a smaller omtech (k40) and I was considering a different method than just putting a frozen bottle of water into my "cooling" bucket to keep it chilled. Lots to think about.

I have two simple suggestions. 1. One of the reasons the temperature is rising is that every 5 to 7 minutes the icemaker compressor will reverse it cycle and heat up the coil to release the ice cubes. Since that manifold is spraying cooling water on it, it will add that heat to the cooling circuit. I suggest adding some antifreeze like glycol to your cooling water. That way you'll don't have to use that manifold as the ice maker simply won't be able to make ice cubes. Therefore the return line can discharge directly into the tank and thus not picking up any heat from the reverse cycle. 2. Go for 2 stage cooling by adding a 240mm radiator with a pair of high pressure 120mm fans to the return line. This will probably take off just enough heat to let the icemaker maintain a constant temperature. The reason behind this is that a radiator cools more effectively with a higher temperature difference while a compressor cools more efficiently with a lower temperature difference.

You could improve the efficacy of the chiller by removing all of the internal electronics and connecting power directly to the compressor, so that anytime its plugged it, it just runs constantly (just leave the diverter valve unplugged, its designed to change the freon flow to allow the cooling element to heat up in order to release the ice). Then just use the external inkbird ITC308 controller to cut power if the chiller bottoms out in temp. This will prevent you from having to deal with 'cycles' at all. For peltiers, I had the same experience, there just isn't enough surface area. I had slightly better results changing to HDD heatsinks rather than CPU/GPU heatsinks, but still not enough surface area to cool efficiently.

Nice study. Obviously the Peltiers are not a solution, which is in fact consistent with TEC coolers for computer processors, where they didn't do a good job either. I have an idea, which I haven't tried, but maybe you can since you have an ice maker already installed. You are trickling water down the ice making elements, which may not utilize them to their full potential. The idea is simple enough and costs next to nothing - find the food/ice rectangular plastic container which fits the compartment under the cooler tubes, with inlet and outlet tube attachments at the opposing sdes, and put it under the ice making "fingers", fil with water so that the elements are fully submerged and circulate that water only, using the bottom compartment as an overflow drain only. I don't know what the minimum quantity of water is needed, biu it's probably wise to choose the container with as big a volume as fits up there. I think that should improve the cooling efficiency, how much is a question. But I have a feeling you might get to a point where the tube will not overheat regardless of the workload. And I would also use the thermostat to actually switch the cooler on and off if it's temperature range allows this.

If you added a small ND magnet to each vane, a coil of wire could be used to measure rpm /relative flow. I wil;l see if I can mod the file.

i Cant seem to get that bit to Zero on my router, when i try It bends the bit, do i have to tighten the screw more ? Router - shop bot

I really appreciate the shoutout. This is extremely well done I am super impressed and love that you 3D printed your own flow sensor!

Thanks for your investment of time and money to demonstrate how unsuitable and inefficient Peltier devices are for this application. I think the fixation with keeping the temperature in the 18 to 20 C region is a myth created by the chiller manufacturers. Go look at the tube manufacturer's specifications and most will tell you that water temperatures up to 40 C are permitted. I have carried out my own tests for 3 hours continuously with a 70 watt tube running at between 40 and 47C. I recorded a 5% loss of power , which at the time I did not understand but there were no ill effects to the tube which still runs today (6 years later). I have encountered many correspondents with refrigerated chillers (CW5000/5200) that experience serious "banding" problems when doing photo engraving. It has long been known that this banding coincides with the refrigeration switching on and off. In the absence of a REAL explanation as to why the power was changing, the simple fix was to create a coil from annealed microbore tube (from any hardware superstore) and connect the chiller to this coil rather than the laser tube. The copper coil then sits in a seperate water reservoir and the water from that reservoir is pumped through the tube with a cheap submersible pond pump. This system removes the shock cooling to the tube by buffering it with this seperate reservoir that changes temperature slowly.. Problem solved. But why? You have to understand the physics of how the tube works but briefly there are two reflecting mirrors at the ends the tube. These are vital for the amplification of the photon population that results in the watts power output. These mirror MUST be perfectly flat and aligned to each other and heat up when the tube is on. Look carefully at a tube and you will usually see a full water jacket at the HV end mirror and a partial water jacket at the output end mirror The rapid cooling shock as the refrigerated water turns on/off cools the back face of the mirror causing distortion. This impairs the perfect reflections and in turn reduces the power output. Slow temperature changes have virtually no distorting effect on those mirrors . That is why buffering the refigerated water solves the power change issue. Also, ther bigger the reservoir the slower the temperature change.

Did Laser engraving possible this work???