Increase the thickness of your "ptfe_tube_cutter" from 10.1mm to 12.1mm and you can cut the tube to the desired length accurately and evenly without a caliper

Does your filament not start oozing when reheating after cooldown?

I need to stop watching videos how to upgrade/fix Vorons and finally fix my own Trident's tool head. This was entertaining, well done. Would you mind sharing the nozzle cleaner you designed? It looked quite slick.

@3:20 I have to disagree; your nozzle has to be clean, otherwise ooze is offsetting you measurement. For me a 3d-touch or clicky probe is a prefered method

@0:02 Excuses my bad english, but what kind of brush did he have before.. a "broth brush"?

Doing this upgrade today.

I got a similar piece of PEEK from eBay for 1-2€. This is a good alternative if you don‘t want to use PTFE.

Sorry for this question but, how do you cut the stencils so nice? , normally when I order one they are quite big like an A5 or something like that, when I cut them they actually bend a bit even with very sharp scissors. Cheers!

Great design, thanks for sharing!

i have installed the mod and it worked perfectly untill I printed basically a full bed of prints, and it started colliding with the printhead at the rear while printing, resulting in parts failing due to the bumping, and the ptfe holder breaking. I had to mount the bed further front to even get the printhead over the PTFE in the first place, so of the 350Y Travel i have about 330 left (5mm due to mounting the bed further front, and about 15mm for printhead clearance). I think it is due to my combination of vorons tap (a CNC version of it rather) and the stealthburner. Otherwise this workes like a charm, is easy to print, and the bumpers are a nice and welcome addition!

New follower here! Thank you for sharing, i will update my two vorons later. Regards

sell me one? haha

it's a cool thing, but I'm wondering what about repeatability? when you need to apply paste on several identical boards. do I need to adjust the stencil every time? is it possible to add traforet retainers? to set up and pin it once.

This is fantastic! Very cool process, and thank you for the update!

It's a pretty nice design idea. But for my purpose, i'd probably do a few things differently. First, the size. I'd probably make it large enough for at least a "Euro Size" PCB. Thats 100x160mm. They might not be that common of a size anymore, but back when i started with electronics, that was the go-to size for a lot of projects, and a lot of precut PCBs came in that size. For the fan, i'd probably just go with an off the shelf 12VDC impeller fan. Put two 4mm banana sockets on the base, and hook up my lab powersupply to the fan to control the speed. With all the added electronics you need to drive that brushless motor, i think i can buy a pretty powerful impeller fan and reduce the complexity and required assembly by a lot. And since we usually put at least two alignment holes (2.05mm hole, with +0.1/-0.0mm tolerance) for our 2.0mm alignment pins we use on test and programming fixtures in the PCB, i'd use these holes and some 2.0mm dowel pins to quickly align the PCB and stencils to eachother.

Hello, What type of bucket do you use with your purge cleanner ?

seems like since I already have the decontaminator , i can add this then, finally go stealth burner and tap.

dude youre a hero!

Wonderful! I have my Voron 2.4 in service but I haven’t installed the nozzle cleaner yet. I’ll give this a shot instead of the brass brush. In the meantime I’ve just been cleaning the nozzle by hand and starting the print with a long purge line.

You can easily make the voron print circles around the bambu. Print the monolith 4WD gantry with an archetype toolhead.

Hi Max, I don't know if it's just me, but when I put the lid on the lifter, the small curves don't fit directly into the holes. I had to adjust this, otherwise the whole thing jams when you press the 2 parts into each other

How did you get these stencils so that they perfectly fit the size of the device

I don't know if I would use ptfe for this, it might offgas some stuff after being heated by the nozzle (150 c is probably fine, but eh)

genius. i like it

Needing to cool the nozzel before cleaning adds time to the startup sequence unnecessarily. Better off using some silicon fuel tubing instead of the ptfe tube. Might not be as durable though. I would personally put the effort into finding some silicon sheet and make one of those designs. They work better, are more durable and can be built low profile for 2.4's.

Oof, have been using this but just recently my beacon probe collided with the print and broke the printed part. Seems like I will need to avoid printing anything close to the edge of the rear of the bed.

great work and well documented, thanks for that! Could it be that you have forgotten the variable_bucket_start: and variable_bucket_pos: in the clean_nozzle.cfg? And in Line 103 it should be MACRO=clean_nozzle instead of MACRO=clean_nozzle_2?

I'm also getting errors on the value "bucket_pos", I can't find it in the .cfg file or where to change this. Probably I misread something because in the cfg file there it says for the Y position thats its assumed 0 but with my printer it is 350.

i got a question for you.. i got a bambulab a1 mini . after maby 3 prints the print bed was to low on the left side. i did auto bed leveling over and over but did not help. i contacted bambulab and they gave me a guide how to manual level the bed. if i have to level it manual, then what is the auto bed leveling doing? is it just moving to make it look like it is auto leveling?

i got Error evaluating 'gcode_macro clean_nozzle:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'bucket_start' is undefined i thing something is missing in de marco

How are u able to get that far back with the Toolhead. I have the Brush too but i barely reach the front of the Brush so it does not clean that well. What have i todo?

Bambu owners after two years "man that thing is annoying. It flings the poop everywhere when printing PETG". Voron owners be like "allright ... let's copy that sucker" 😂.

I didn't understand how this cleaner helps. Ok you've pushed some filament, cooled the nozzle, removed the filament. But as soon as you you heat it up again some of the filament will go down the nozzle just because of the gravity. And you actually need to clean the nozzle the second before it starts printing, otherwise is dirty again.

I did similar for color print nozzle cleaner I also used PTFE tube kzbin.infoPKLXPxzxEu4

Brass brush is not recommended for what kind of nozzle?

I have the Decontaminator setup on my LDO V2.4 300, and I rarely use it because it seems to cause as many problems with bits of plastic stuck to the nozzle as it fixes. It was worth adding for the sheet stops alone though. I have not found the screws to be prone to bending, however I printed the parts out of PC carbon fiber, and I turned the screws in as far as they would go and still have the heads catch the sheet, so I don't have screw heads protruding above the level of the sheet. Looks like you used an LDO kit... LDO uses a slightly thicker aluminum bed than the standard Voron spec calls for, so they have a modified version of the Decontaminator parts with the sheet stop mounts raised in height to match. If you are using the original version of the printed parts, then this could be why you have had issues with the screws bending, since they would be protruding out from the parts more, and thus be more prone to bend. IIRC there is a link to the modified parts on LDO's printed parts guide. However there is another issue with the LDO modified parts. They raised the height of the sheet stops, but they don't appear to have raised the height of the brass brush to match. This leads to the brush being essentially level with the bed, so you have to be pretty careful when setting the height and Y position of the nozzle when it wipes (depending on what hot end you are using), to ensure that you don't contact one of the sheet stop screws or even the bed. With the wide nozzles used by the Revo hot end, I had a pretty narrow envelope in which it could wipe; this might not be the case with other hot ends.

This is awesome! Thank you for sharing!

Using PTFE as something which has direct contact with surface heated to more than 200 degrees Celsius is pretty bad idea

Nice solution and thanks for sharing the files and the process. I've saved this for later when I'm going to implement it on my v2.4r2

Interesting. You could upgrade it to have multiple hooks with tubes printed out, just in case one breaks out over time. In other words, make a brush made of rolls. And to be fancy, every single hook would be held on a magnet sandwiched between magnets, and a couple of spare hooks would be clipped on magnets behind the purge bucket.

Excellent - thanks for sharing.

Cool, but i am guessing that over time the flex part will fail. Why not tpu for the flex?

I'd also consider taking the Bambu approach and pressing the nozzle into the bed after the wipe.

Great design! Outro song?

Looks great. My only concern would be that the print will eventually snap. Wouldn't it make sense to have it barely touch the ptfe tube? I'm building a voron and I guess I'll give this a shot rather than the brush. Lieben Gruß :)

Nice! The only thing is (for a V2.4) that you can't use is in the middle of a print. You can hit a part while moving back. This should be installed on the gantry.

would be great to have this on a trident. there's a real lack of nozzle wipers for the trident compared to the 2.4

bambu extrudes quite a lot of filament at cleanup (0.3/0.5 grams), this is by design because most of the time that poop is going down the shuuute

Very neat. I love this design. After seeing the Bambu in person the other day I wanted something like this as well. Sadly, I have a bed slinger and have almost no where the nozzle can reach without being over the bed. Got about 10 mm of clearance on the right side of the bed. Was thinking of doing something just like this, then realized that would require some work and had a simpler idea. Since I have bltouch and know my beds z height fairly precisely, I can just use the edge of the bed to do a small wipe right after purging off the side of the bed. The head positions itself off the side, waits for temp, then spits out 10mm of filament, it then does the normal retract length, wipes 5 mm into the bed really quickly, then lifts up and travels to start printing. Surprisingly effective and has the first line going down smooth. Still might try to see if I can recreate this ptfe tube thing in the space i have, there have been an occasion where I found a small blob of filament that did not purge off the head until half way to where the print was to start. would be annoying to have something like that lying around on a larger print. Might have to modify since i cant afford to be yeeting filament towards the bed. That bugger in your video would have hit my x endstop.

Unrelated, but could you tell me (us), which camera holder you are using? Looks neat there at the rear end of the bed. Would you also pictures of the viewing angle this gives?