Hi Keith , apologise for delay, can you email me on [email protected] and I’ll try best to help !

Hi Bill. The front of the cutting on a hollowing tool is not generally used as a bevel and is rarely in contact unless for finishing cuts when it can be engaged if required. What type of bowls are you turning ? end grain, cross grain, unseasoned, seasoned ? all make a difference as to how a tool is used. This being a hollowing tool designed on the ring tool when inside of a 'hollow' form it is mostly impossible to rub what is known as the bevel/front of the cutter especially as the handle should always be trailing. If you are having catches it is because the cutter is presented incorrectly to the surface it is in contact with. If you are turning cross grain bowls then you are best using a bowl gouge, if turning end grain bowls then make sure that when cutting from centre out the shaft of the tools is inline with the spindle axis of the lathe or if the lathe head is swiveled then perpendicular to the base of the bowl with handle trailing slightly and cutter angled at 45 degrees and only cut left of 12 O-clock as right of 12 o-clock the cutting edge is pointing upwards and will catch. Without seeing you working with the tool it is very difficult to say, without knowing the exact orientation of the grain you are cutting again it is difficult to say what is happening. what I would say is if you find it works rubbing the front of the cutter and you are able to then rub the front of the cutter but not doing so is not the reason for the catches you are having rather the presentation of the cutting edge to the wood. hope this helps, all the best Mark

Mark Sanger I was making a dry ash cross grain bowl. But it was too deep for a gouge. In fact I finished off with a scraper. The tool was very good on the inner sides of the bowl. But I am still learning so some more trial and error will be needed. But thanks for the prompt reply.

@@billgiles3261 Hi Bill, cross grain especially dry can be a bit catchy as you have four different densities of wood orientation/revolution, this is compounded by having to cut from outside in and the difficulty of getting the bevel of any tool to rub on a very deep vessel. Your option of using the scraper is one I would also use as they are nice and easy but can compromise the surface finish> you should be able to get a 'bottom hugger' ground bowl gouge to work, this is one which is ground around 60 degrees, obtuse so the bevel is supporting but only take light finial cuts due to the over hang. Its a difficult scenario and one that causes quite a few issues, so you scraper option as mentioned is a good go to. all the best here if I can help :-)

Hi , the grind is a long grind, similar to the Ellsworth or Celtic grind but the wings of the grind I use are more vertical and aggressive.

You are welcome. Hopefully it helps. I will be doing more coming this year. If I get time.

Hi Dave, it was indeed a fantastic experience and one I will remember for ever.

Glad it helped, any more questions just let me know.

Mike give me a ring, phone number on contacts page of my website, if I am not in leave message and I will get back to you to and try to help you out. It is a great tool and you certainly with sound wood should not get dust, may be the cutter need adjusting. As I say give me a ring.

+Mark Sanger - Mark, that is very kind. I am in the middle of a non woodturning project but will get back to the workshop and try again. Will then ring you! Thanks again. Regards, Mike

For anyone that is interested. I decided to take a days course with Mark, not feeling that a phone call would do the job. I now feel happy with the tool. It was a very good day and I learned a lot. Money well spent. Mark is a good tutor and easy to be with. I recommend him. Mike

Thanks, I have obviously had a lot of practice with it, but students that use it for the first time in my workshop get the same result.

+WYOMINGWOODTURNER Thank you Sam for your comments, much appreciated.

+Finchley Turner HI, Thank you for your comments. The angle is about 50-55 degs the important bit is that the long grind cutting edge is flat that way you can cut the spigot and produce a flat shoulder. Have a look on Saturday close up. Take care

+Rundgemacht Hi Thank you for your comments. The final form of these bowls is based on the Japanese rice bowl which undercuts into the foot which eventually is what the small spigot will be used for. The second section is the shoulder that sits up against the front of the chuck the reason I cut in above this is to produce the roughed bowl form to as close a match as the final bowl form as possible. If this is not done the base wall thickness would be much thicker and as a result the top wall thickness would also need to be thicker to keep it equal for seasoning, the result being that the seasoning time would be extended by a month or two. Also by producing the wall to as close to the final thickness (taking into account movement during seasoning) I reduce the amount of cuts needed to finish the seasoned bowl making the process as efficient as possible. This is not necessary on all bowl forms just the one I make here. Hope this helps clarify

Yes, that helped. Thanks for the long answer.

+David Muckle Hi David Sorry to hear you are not able to turn for sometime, it must be very frustrating for you, hope you get back to it as soon as possible. all the best Mark

+pepe rubio Hi Pepe, great to hear from you, see you there. Thank you for your comments on the video.

+The Little Garden Shed Workshop Thank you Harry for your comment, much appreciated.

+LUIS ALARCON Hola, Luis, gracias por sus comentarios Me alegro de que disfruten el video.

+David Muckle Thanks David, I am glad you found it informative.

+Keith Corodimas Sorry Keith, damn setting meant I did not get your message. The tool use is the 5/8th Crown Revolution hollowing system. Thanks

+gerald meager Hi, unfortunately I never seem to get time but hopefully in the near future I will do another video showing the end process.

Hi Bradyn this 5/8th version in Aus Dollars is $284 which excludes the shipping from the UK which is $88 Aus dollars insured. Unfortunately the exchange rates kill it, to date I do not believe there is a stockist in Aus although I think there will be sooner rather than later. I will do some inquiries for you. If you email me [email protected] then I will update you. Or let me have your email. Other outlets are in Germany, Spain and France so no closer to you. Hope this helps

Hi John Thank you for the feed back and taking the time to comment. I am glad the video has been of help to you. Take care Mark

I'm afraid life and paying the bills took over and I have not gotten around to it.