Regarding window replacement with nail fin windows: The depth of windows between the nail fin and the inside face of the window is different for different window brands and lines. If that depth (which is not the nail fin setback) for the existing window is 1-3/8", and it is 1-7/8" for the replacement window, you will be cutting back interior drywall returns and window sills so that the nail fin can sit on the exterior wall sheathing. If you are going to attempt this, have your drywall finisher, trim carpenter and painter ready to repair the interior issues that will result.

Cool experiment

You could at least put them in a bucket and put them out somewhere away from the house for them to get. That’s their winter food source. People need to be kinder to animals.

Pay attention to what your actually getting, because I just realized Anderson windows can come labeled as "new construction" and "replacement". Excuse me, yeah I was looking at a window display and noticed the nailing fin corners weren't looking sealed after asking the employee he gave me an answer I wasn't comfortable with and showed me the same style, same company, same series window, and I noticed the nail fin was all sealed together as a solid piece. Came home and realized the window I was looking at was labeled as both "new construction" and "replacement" so that nail fin can literally be removed, not the answer I got from the employee. But Anderson does sell windows strictly labeled "new construction" that the nail fin is fully sealed and won't come off. Lesson learned, thankfully before I pulled the trigger on any purchase.

Storing them for what? do they actually get them later or is my house doomed to be a time bomb when the fire comes?

Awww man the family fortune 😢

That looks like an OSHA violation. Lol

Can't the nuts just stay in there for insulation? LOL.

So much knowledge in this video Thank you so much!!

its a shame it cost an arm and a leg to have windows replace, i have 12 that 30 yrs old i just cant afford it

Phoenix Arizona. Home built 1999. Replaced construction grade aluminum window with vinyl replacement windows in 2010. The company is no longer in business. The south facing windows (and most all the rest) have extensive stucco cracking. Stucco guy said these windows are Masonry Windows because they do not have a flange or nail fins. What do I replace them with and How? Some say I don't have to replace the window. I am at lost. Please Help!

Very helpful, thanks for sharing.

I noticed water dripping from one of the pinholes on the underside of my vinyl. The house was built in 1996, so it is original, no other siding behind it. Should I be concerned about this? There are tiny pinholes all along the underside of the siding, which would suggest maybe they are intentional for draining. However, I only see it in one place and in 10 years of living here can't recall ever seeing this before, which is what has me worried maybe the water is coming from the roof valley possibly. I know wind gets behind the siding because you can hear it flex, so I guess maybe water does get back there. BUT, we haven't had any precipitation for 5 or 6 days, which was a light dusting of snow and ice that is now melting from the roof.

Sooo pushing on the panels and having water drip out is a good thing ??

Jeremy, I’m afraid I had my six front vinyl windows replaced with those vinyl replacement flush fin windows. My exterior wall is stucco, two stories. I didn’t ask what install method was to be used. Can I remove those new windows and start from scratch using the correct method you suggested or will that damage the wall?

Jeramy, Thanks for the video! I’m old school and knew nothing about this new nail fin design. My home if lap siding (not vinal) and typical wood windows with wood brick mold on the outside. Isnt there ANY way to replace my old window (sill rotted and part of window frame at one corner) without taking down or and/or replacing the siding? I’m retired military and just cant afford all that. Thank you for your proffesional experienced advise.

5:30 But I have an older log home, so it's my only option I think.

So you claim the nailing flange is so great yet every house i have seen with a nailing fin window has a rotted out wall lol If you clowns could figure out how to use something other then calking you could seal the window! You know like that flashing stuff or many other products. Heck you can buy tar in a roll! Another thing you can install a retro window literally the same place with the same material right to the rough opening if you had any clue at all what you was doing! Water wont care if the flange looks different as long as it is seal and installed in the same way it will be the SAME! Clearly you don't know how to install such a window! Lastly FU and having to replace siding just because you have a bad window! There are other ways and clearly you don't have them skills and should probably find another job!

Install aluminum kick-outs under the lower corners of the j channel. Forcing the water out and over the next course of siding.

You guys get it!!! I am a siding replacement contractor in San Diego, CA. It is extremely frustrating to have window replacement companies in our area sell the homeowner on the quick and easy retrofit style window option. I can't tell you how many times I get a call from a homeowner asking for a quote to replace the siding on their home right after they have had their windows replaced with retro style. 😩

Talk about losing all your life savings

I've taken on a semi major project, myself and on a fixed income budget...& thought I 'd found a REALLY good buy from Habitat for Humanity, really nice thick windows....only to get home & realize..there are no casing nor window fins...the windows are in 2 parts..the top (lock) & bottom (part the locks fit in.)....(I know nothing, as you can tell; about windows..just that these are thick & nice...my question..how can I install them???Can I purchase the fin(s) so I will have something to nail the window into my 2x4 frame?? Can I make these windows work?? I welcome all the advice I can get Thanks for all the info!

How long were they in the water?

Thanks for the wisdom in the video! I bought an assortment of windows for a tiny house I’m starting to build. Two of them do not have nail fins. Is there a good method to still use them? Or is it worth it to look for two windows with fins?

I bet you don’t like brick mold windows

I have rotted wood around my 30 year old windows. Is it possible to put in new construction windows replace any rotted wood without removing the vinyl siding completely can it just be pulled back for the install ?

This is such crap, didn't notice until we owned the house years later everything started to show

I have not installed vinyl siding but I've been curious what stops water from getting through the sides. I have found water damage on the subfloor where it ran down inside the walls under the windows that face the direction that storms typically hit. There's no house wrap behind the siding. That would probably help.

I didn't see any pictures of stucco wall houses with issues. I believe if the aluminum frame is left unmolested the chances of problems arising are minimal. If they're is issues with the water proofing of the house those problems will arise even with full replacement windows.

People make videos assuming every opening is the same. I been installing windows for 30 years. This guy would not want to sit down with me and show how little he actually knows. The only time a aluminum frame. Is ever left in place is on newer stucco homes because that is a seal you don't want to break. If you want to pay extra thousands of dollars to have your stucco cut back and replaced repainted feel free. Or thousands more if you have stucco banding around those windows. If your stucco is cracking and you pull the frames it will leak. Ever other opening the aluminum frame should be removed. Its ridiculous to assume people are leaving frames in. Any person that tells you you should install flanged windows in sold brick openings is a idiot. Professional installers can remove the old window frame and all. Use their trim break to build a perfect flash pan that will last for ever and install a retrofit window without doing any damage to your brick but if you want to pay thousands of dollars to have brick removed so you can use a new construction window feel free. Hardy or wood siding you always pull the full aluminum frame. Don't assume you can pull off a 1x4 and expose a nailing fin for the old window. Its behinb the siding. You extract the old window without damaging good trim. Anything not under a patio will have a Z flashing that keeps water from getting behind the trim. You measure and cut back the sheetrock so the new window sits back past the face of the hardy. If your tearing everything off then by all means use finned windows. But don't tear your whole home apart because some kid on utube tells you people leave frames in and thinks Professional installers don't know how to give you great garenteed installation without remodeling your whole home.

Thanks for the info.

Thank you! This was actually very helpful. We had our aluminium siding removed & replaced with vinyl around 2006 or 2007. It's still in great shape, but we unfortunately did not have the budget for new windows at the time. So we are stuck with hideous metal windows (some of which are cracked or even broken and patched with duct tape). The house was built in the 30s or 40s so it is very old. The door sills are rotted but I can't tell if there is any problem with the windows as they have J-trim all around. I would like to remove my metal windows, remove J-trim & pull back vinyl siding carefully, install flashing all around (I will check to see if there is z-flashing above the windows), and install new double pane vinyl windows. Could I use a new installation window with a nailing flange if I pull the siding back far enough? Would I put flashing over the nailing flange as well? Would I be able to just pop the J-channel trim back in place afterward? (I live out in the middle of the woods and I have a hard time finding reliable installers & while I do intend to hire someone for it, I want to make sure it's done right & that I order the correct windows).

Can I remove the window shims after the foam dries up. I want to foam where the shims where then replace the screws.

Wrong! A replacement window without a flange aka pocket replacement can and will last if installed properly. Just like anything else. Replacement windows have no nail fin.

Ma come caxxo le fanno le case da quelle parti!!!

I hope the government do the same to your bank account

Damn that's nuts

So who’s paying for the damage?

*Just 10 more nuts before retiring*

Haha what's with the woodpecker storage vids all of a sudden

Third video I got recommended about a woodpecker's stash, I think KZbin is up to something

Woodpeckers don’t store acorns dumb nuts they eat grubs and other wood boring insects that is squirrels

I would say you have a real problem!!

Veo muchos vídeos de estos que son esos

Excellent video! I bought a 23 year old house that needs new windows and siding. It is sheathed in OSB that was not wrapped in a WRB because the code at the time did require it. My plan is to use new construction windows so the rough openings can be inspected and repaired as necessary. Then the sills will be reflashed with modern day materials and the windows with nail fins will be installed with caulk and correctly flashed for proper water management. My question is, can all this be accomplished without removing all the interior window casings which are beautiful and in perfect condition? I have seen new construction windows with foldable nail fins and was wondering if the window could be shimmed, foamed, fins nailed/screwed, and perimeter flashed all from the outside?

Safety last!

why not start from bottom

Imagine your hard work all year long is suddenly gone

Who want to buy this house Animals included 😅

Guy in the video says “this is what those squirrels have been doing over the years”