Replacement vs Nail Fin Window Installation

Learn about the differences between nail fin and replacement window installations. Learn about some potential drawbacks and concerns when installing replacement or retro windows. See recent blog post on the subject here - www.3ghomeimprovements.com/20...

[@Greenpointins]

Great information for those wanting to understand the difference between new construction and block insert windows. These guys really seem to know their business, especially when you see their flashing and plywood cuts. Thank you for the great video.

[@jeremyowens95630]

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!

[@ericcashion9926]

You guys get it!!! I am a siding replacement contractor in San Diego, CA. It is extremely frustrating to have window replacement companies in our area sell the homeowner on the quick and easy retrofit style window option. I can't tell you how many times I get a call from a homeowner asking for a quote to replace the siding on their home right after they have had their windows replaced with retro style. 😩

[@jeremyowens95630]

Thank you for the kind words! Nice to hear from a fellow pro!

[@andrewrickert08570]

Regarding window replacement with nail fin windows: The depth of windows between the nail fin and the inside face of the window is different for different window brands and lines. If that depth (which is not the nail fin setback) for the existing window is 1-3/8", and it is 1-7/8" for the replacement window, you will be cutting back interior drywall returns and window sills so that the nail fin can sit on the exterior wall sheathing. If you are going to attempt this, have your drywall finisher, trim carpenter and painter ready to repair the interior issues that will result.

[@pamelas3119]

Pay attention to what your actually getting, because I just realized Anderson windows can come labeled as "new construction" and "replacement". Excuse me, yeah I was looking at a window display and noticed the nailing fin corners weren't looking sealed after asking the employee he gave me an answer I wasn't comfortable with and showed me the same style, same company, same series window, and I noticed the nail fin was all sealed together as a solid piece. Came home and realized the window I was looking at was labeled as both "new construction" and "replacement" so that nail fin can literally be removed, not the answer I got from the employee. But Anderson does sell windows strictly labeled "new construction" that the nail fin is fully sealed and won't come off. Lesson learned, thankfully before I pulled the trigger on any purchase.

[@juliesnyder4568]

So much knowledge in this video Thank you so much!!

[@3gtv845]

Thank you! 3 generations of knowledge to be exact.... :)

[@unclestubs8377]

A replacement window has no flange at all. It is supposed to insert into the old hole of the original window. It does not go over the top of your siding/sheathing. You then seal the edges with caulking, when done correctly it will not leak or cause any kind of water issue.

[@jeremyowens95630]

We are probably dealing with different terminology based on the region. We use block or insert windows to fit in the existing "hole" or jamb - this is commonly found in wood window applications. This application does not typically cause any leak situations because the new window fits inside the wood stops. In this video, we are referring to replacement, flush fin or Z-bar (many different terms depending upon region). The flange is manufactured on the outside of the window in order to cover up the existing window frame. This application can cause severe problems depending upon the type of exterior siding and trim that exists.

[@shantor100]

Actually they do make a replacement widow with a nailing flange and it's not called a new construction window

[@djdev3077]

A replacement window will leak,even if you caulk,if you have movement in the house,the window is going to leak.

[@unclestubs8377]

@@djdev3077 "if done correctly" it will not leak

[@cotwold]

Very helpful, thanks for sharing.

[@3gtv845]

You bet!

[@carolinaadler4923]

Great video, very clear. I know you mentioned twice to change windows and siding together but can you do windows first then siding?

[@jeremyowens95630]

Thank you for the kind words! Ideally, they should be done together to control costs and flashing details, but there are certainly ways to do one before the other. The steps taken would depend on what type of siding you have. For example, if you have wood siding butted to exterior trim, then you could remove trim, flashing and install windows, then install new trim and caulking. As mentioned, we recommend nail-fin window for flashing and water intrustion protection. Hope that helps!

[@DominionofGod]

If you wanted to put a new construction window in an already existing house (replacing current windows with new construction windows), do you just have to remove the siding pieces in the way around the window frame for the new nail fin to be nailed into the stud or do you have to remove the portion of wall itself (the OSB or what ever they use)? - [Which is what i assume im looking at at 9:40 in video]

[@jeremyowens95630]

In order to get a nail fin window in, you will have to remove the window trim and potentially cut back the siding too in order to get to the plywood or stud level. If the siding was installed over the studs, then the new construction fin would be installed on the studs, but if plywood/OSB exists, than the fin would sit on the plywood. It is easiest if the existing siding butts to the trim (which is how most siding such as Hardie and LP is installed these days in order to install Z-bar flashing over the head trim) because you can simply remove the trim (try and keep paper in place), flash bottom, then 2-sides with flashing tape, caulk around top and 3 sides where fin will sit, then install window , flash top of fin and tie it all in with existing house wrap. Hope that helps, feel free to email me at [e-mail] if you need some help. Thanks!

[@bluesraincancun9217]

Thanks for the info.

[@jeremyowens95630]

You are welcome, hope it helped!

[@drewdroppings]

Thanks for the wisdom in the video! I bought an assortment of windows for a tiny house I’m starting to build. Two of them do not have nail fins. Is there a good method to still use them? Or is it worth it to look for two windows with fins?

[@jeremyowens95630]

Drew - Thank you for the kind words! Some window manufacturers offer a snap in nail fin, so you might want to check that out first. If you have good eave protection you should be ok with a block frame as long as you stay on top of the siding & caulking maintenance on the outside. If it is an exposed area, better be safe than sorry.... Good luck!

[@jeffkelly5972]

I have rotted wood around my 30 year old windows. Is it possible to put in new construction windows replace any rotted wood without removing the vinyl siding completely can it just be pulled back for the install ?

[@JakeSmith-vt5pm]

Question. I want to replace my windows. How do I know if I’m going to need a “replacement” window or a window with a “flange”? Do I need to take off my siding to tell the difference?

[@jeremyowens95630]

If you have a two story stucco house or wood siding that is showing signs of deterioration I would not typically recommend "replacement windows" because of the increase risk of water penetration problems. If you have wood siding, you can install a nail fin window by removing your trim (and potentially cutting back your siding too), remove the existing window, re-flash the window, install new window, then trim and caulk. As always, seek the advice of a local professional and get several estimates to gather the information that you need to make the right decision for you. Good luck!

[@mycats7321]

Thank you! This was actually very helpful. We had our aluminium siding removed & replaced with vinyl around 2006 or 2007. It's still in great shape, but we unfortunately did not have the budget for new windows at the time. So we are stuck with hideous metal windows (some of which are cracked or even broken and patched with duct tape). The house was built in the 30s or 40s so it is very old. The door sills are rotted but I can't tell if there is any problem with the windows as they have J-trim all around. I would like to remove my metal windows, remove J-trim & pull back vinyl siding carefully, install flashing all around (I will check to see if there is z-flashing above the windows), and install new double pane vinyl windows. Could I use a new installation window with a nailing flange if I pull the siding back far enough? Would I put flashing over the nailing flange as well? Would I be able to just pop the J-channel trim back in place afterward? (I live out in the middle of the woods and I have a hard time finding reliable installers & while I do intend to hire someone for it, I want to make sure it's done right & that I order the correct windows).

[@jeremyowens95630]

Thank you for the kind words. This is a tough one because peeling back the vinyl siding and J-channel is very hard to do and not likely going to be easy at all. The nail fin of the channel trim sits under the vinyl siding now, so you would have to remove the last nail of the vinyl, then remove all the nails around the channel to get it out, then peel back the siding to flash and install the windows. Definitely a 2 person job and the tough part would be trying to get the channel back in the same spot and same way. This can be done, but one window at a time and very methodical. If you have good eave protection and it is a one story, this could be a candidate for replacement windows. If you can get a good caulking connection between the old frame and the new it should work out ok, but I do not recommend trying to install replacement windows by yourself. It sounds like you are in a difficult area to get help, but I would keep trying that route to see what opinions you get. Good luck!

[@mycats7321]

@@jeremyowens95630 Thank you. I've seen how the vinyl siding can be pulled back, but the J-trim was the main concern. I think I have about 2ft of eaves overhang but I haven't really measured-- I'm just eyeballing it. It is a single story house. Unfortunately, some of my windows are facing the south and east & we get a LOT of rain. Sometimes the wind blows the rain sideways so it directly hits the windows. I do have some windows that overlook a covered porch so they won't need to be sealed as much. Another issue is I have windows side by side connected by mulling to make them appear huge. One of the windows is technically 3 windows connected with mulling. That is definitely not a DIY job. LOL.

[@jeremyowens95630]

@@mycats7321 Definitely sounds like a job for a pro! Good luck!

[@thebartender2008]

how do you replace old vinyl windows? 1994 vinyl-therm, out of business in 1996. recently bought house, had receipts of install date. They are still in working condition, just a bit drafty, way better after I recaulked inside frames, double hung the whole 9 yards of efficiency, elow, tinted, double pain, all that jazz. Just have one moisture inside and picture window doing same. MN weather. Outside has all the drip edging and all that done. recaulk the outside around framing, and 1/4 inch gap all around with a bead already? Steel siding. The windows I have no idea how to take out, no levers to use. Has full screen built in it seems. Thank you for the information!

[@3gtv845]

With steel siding on the outside, the easiest way to install new windows will be a replacement window. However, if you go this rout make sure the window contractor is comfortable with this install type and will guarantee against leaks. It is also very tough to install replacement windows over vinyl because of how much vinyl framing you have to cover with the new window. If you go with a nail fin installation, it would require extensive siding work (especially if the siding is installed up to the edge of the window frame instead of a coil wrap trim detail). You could consider getting a glass shop to add weatherstripping to the windows and replacing glass where needed. Caulking and weatherstripping will help with the drafts and may be your best option for now. Without looking at it, I will likely recommend this maintenance option to avoid the hassle with the other two options.

[@sentientarc]

"Block Frame Window". Thank you. The trouble with a Flange Mounted Window is the fact that it made the Window Shutter decorative-only, no longer functional. All these people hanging plywood over their windowns and creating new moisture penetration holes for incoming huricanes "get to" repeat the process for every new threat. Block Frame Windows would permit the homeowner to CLOSE THE SHUTTERS then open them again when the threat passes. I honestly believe that the flange design was the cheaper method, both cost and result. It permits a retrofit for existing homes and is the quickest way to build a home but not the best.

[@jeremyowens95630]

I agree, retrofit is the quickest and easiest, but not the best at all due to moisture penetration and loss of glass space. We don't have the hurricane threats here in sunny California so we do not see that as a problem and block frames are only (or should only) be done when installed in place of the old wood windows and set inside the stop. This question/problem is the most misunderstood by homeowners that we come across in our industry.

[@MRrwmac]

Jeramy, Thanks for the video! I’m old school and knew nothing about this new nail fin design. My home if lap siding (not vinal) and typical wood windows with wood brick mold on the outside. Isnt there ANY way to replace my old window (sill rotted and part of window frame at one corner) without taking down or and/or replacing the siding? I’m retired military and just cant afford all that. Thank you for your proffesional experienced advise.

[@jeremyowens95630]

Yes, you can remove the wood stops on the inside on the windows and install a block framed window. Just be sure to fix the dry rot before putting the window in. There should be some good videos on how to install a window in old wood window openings. Good luck!

[@amaraujo521]

We purchased replacement windows for a home renovation we are doing. We didn't realize at the time there was no nailing fin or flange. So Im thinking they are block windows. We spent too much to not use them. Any advice on how to install them so we don't have to worry about leakage? Im seeing a lot if different install methods. We will be putting them in a newly framed window opening if that makes a difference

[@3gtv845]

Amy - you can check with the window manufacturer to see if they have any snap on nail-fin flanges that can be installed directly to the window. If not, you can install window flashing tape on the edge of the window and onto the plywood/OSB. Lasly, make sure the window to trim connection is caulked well, but more importantly, Z-bar galvenized flashing is installed over the head trim to promote proper water-shed. Hope that helps. Good luck!

[@tomheringer2047]

Excellent video! I bought a 23 year old house that needs new windows and siding. It is sheathed in OSB that was not wrapped in a WRB because the code at the time did require it. My plan is to use new construction windows so the rough openings can be inspected and repaired as necessary. Then the sills will be reflashed with modern day materials and the windows with nail fins will be installed with caulk and correctly flashed for proper water management. My question is, can all this be accomplished without removing all the interior window casings which are beautiful and in perfect condition? I have seen new construction windows with foldable nail fins and was wondering if the window could be shimmed, foamed, fins nailed/screwed, and perimeter flashed all from the outside?

[@jeremyowens95630]

Yes, you can leave your wood sills in place, but will likely have to trim some of it back because the new windows are thicker than original. I prefer welded nail fins for the best water hold-out potential. Most windows also have 2 different nail fin set back options - 1" and 1 3/4" (which is how far the fin sits from the outside of the window). Think through this as it is best for the window to sit inside the wood trim on outside as opposed to sitting even or proud of the trim. Hope that helps!

[@tomheringer2047]

Thank you Jeremy! Yes, your reply was very informative. I was born and raised in Sacramento and remained there until I retired and moved to Wichita, Kansas. I plan to install new Class IV roofing shingles, new siding and new construction windows all at the same remodeling event. I sure miss the Sacramento/Folsom/El Dorado Hills weather!

[@jeremyowens95630]

@@tomheringer2047 Thanks, good luck with the remodel!

[@ydong3791]

Good video. I have leaking problem with my retrofit window. The contractor suggest me remove and change to a new construction window, does that mean I also need some siding work? Do you guys do San Jose area? Thanks

[@jeremyowens95630]

Sorry, we do not serve your area, we are out of Folsom. In order to complete a nail fin installation, you will need to complete some minor siding or trim removal/repair in order to get the window out and good flashing in. Hope round #2 works better for you!

[@ydong3791]

@@jeremyowens95630 Thank you. I got a quote for $750 for each window replacement(including removal, install, waterproof and stucco siding work etc), is that a reasonable price? Not include the window itself. Thanks

[@jeremyowens95630]

@@ydong3791 Yes, that does appear to be a fair price.

[@ydong3791]

@@jeremyowens95630 Sounds good. Thank you

[@elizabethbetty2662]

Jeremy, I’m afraid I had my six front vinyl windows replaced with those vinyl replacement flush fin windows. My exterior wall is stucco, two stories. I didn’t ask what install method was to be used. Can I remove those new windows and start from scratch using the correct method you suggested or will that damage the wall?

[@jeremyowens95630]

You can remove the replacement windows, along with original windows by chipping out the stucco 6-9", then installing a new nail finned window, flashing and installing new stucco and paint. You could wait a winter or two to see how they hold up. I hate that window company's do not bring up the 2 methods and allow the homeowners to decide what is best for them and their house. Good luck!

[@elizabethbetty2662]

Thank you, Jeremy. I will keep your suggestions in mind.

[@paulettepier5526]

I've taken on a semi major project, myself and on a fixed income budget...& thought I 'd found a REALLY good buy from Habitat for Humanity, really nice thick windows....only to get home & realize..there are no casing nor window fins...the windows are in 2 parts..the top (lock) & bottom (part the locks fit in.)....(I know nothing, as you can tell; about windows..just that these are thick & nice...my question..how can I install them???Can I purchase the fin(s) so I will have something to nail the window into my 2x4 frame?? Can I make these windows work?? I welcome all the advice I can get Thanks for all the info!

[@satxpress]

Can I remove the window shims after the foam dries up. I want to foam where the shims where then replace the screws.

[@jeremyowens95630]

Should be ok, but I would leave them so as to not move the window out of plumb/square. The shims will not be a big energy waster.

[@xxxdpgxxxx1389]

So take out old window and install new construction no matter what ? I have stucco so I would have to break off some stucco ?

[@jeremyowens95630]

Not an absolute must for every home, but yes if you did install new construction windows you would have to cut back the stucco 6-10" in order to get proper flashing tape installed. If the window contractor is comfortable with replacement windows for your home, then make sure they guarantee leaks for X amt of years.

[@capitalglass912]

@@jeremyowens95630 Not correct. Use a window with a stucco fin instead of nailing fin...sometimes called a Z-Bar frame. NO stucco is removed/disturbed/cut.

[@3gtv845]

@@capitalglass912 That is definitely one option and most window contractors do it that way in our market as well. We deal with a lot of leaky replacement (z-bar) windows on 2 story south exposures in our area that are done by other contractors. For that reason, we like to educate our clients with both options and provide the pros and cons of both and let them be part of the decision on install.

[@elizabethbetty2662]

I received no education on my window install methods. Now I am stuck with these ugly flush fin retrofit replacement windows. They look nice on the inside but exterior stucco wall now looks terrible. With all the education I’m finding now, I’m considering pulling out the new windows and starting from scratch using a different installer. Here from Bay Area California.

[@daggs6534]

I didn't see any pictures of stucco wall houses with issues. I believe if the aluminum frame is left unmolested the chances of problems arising are minimal. If they're is issues with the water proofing of the house those problems will arise even with full replacement windows.

[@jeremyowens95630]

Good point. We have hundreds of pictures of leaks with replacement windows in stucco (we live in a heavy stucco market), but I would say the majority of those homes likely already had flashing/waterproofing issues and they were told or hoped that installing new windows would solve the problem. The bigger issue is that homeowners are not getting the information on installation options and they are investing over $20,000 on new windows that cannot be flashed, re-set or moved in any way if a leak develops. I have seen leaks in replacement windows caused by failed caulking where the two windows come together and this too is difficult to repair or diagnose sometimes. When caulking is relied upon to prevent water intrusion it can be a recipe for disaster, especially in hot climates where caulking fails at a faster rate.

[@EnricaCarotenuto]

Phoenix Arizona. Home built 1999. Replaced construction grade aluminum window with vinyl replacement windows in 2010. The company is no longer in business. The south facing windows (and most all the rest) have extensive stucco cracking. Stucco guy said these windows are Masonry Windows because they do not have a flange or nail fins. What do I replace them with and How? Some say I don't have to replace the window. I am at lost. Please Help!

[@jeremyowens95630]

Tough one, I would not spend money on stucco repairs until/unless you figure out the windows at the same time. The best method in this case would be full nail finned windows by chipping out your stucco 6-9", re-flashing them and having a stucco company patch the stucco back. This does not guarantee yourself from future problems (leaks, cracks), but at least it is the right method, especially for south and west exposures. With what you described, you really couldn't and shouldn't replace a replacement window with another one. Windows usually only cause cracks if they are installed too tight to the framing and stucco, but the home could be settling a lot too, which would make any sharp edges and corners susceptible to cracking. Get a lot of opinions and estimates until you feel comfortable with a trusting licensed contractor - maybe a general would be a good way of going. Feel free to call me at the office at 916-932-2315. Good luck! Jeremy

[@EnricaCarotenuto]

@@jeremyowens95630 Thanks for your prompt reply. I will call around and hopefully find someone who knows what they’re talking about. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again

[@Michael-jm5ix]

If you're left with having to go with block frame and installing from inside, is there a good solution you could suggest so we don't run into the issues you described?

[@jeremyowens95630]

Not ideal to not have any flashing tape as you are left to rely on caulking. If the block frame is butted against the outside wood stop (if you are installing the from the inside) try back caulking against the stop to add one additional layer of protection along with caulking where the frame meets the outside trim as well. If you stay on the caulking and painting on the outside you should be fine.

[@dougbroman7563]

Wrong! A replacement window without a flange aka pocket replacement can and will last if installed properly. Just like anything else. Replacement windows have no nail fin.

[@cpanic9]

How would you install that properly? I'm interested.

[@Skiroy]

So I have Brick which means my new construction window flanges are behind the brick. Is the block frame my only option? I live in Florida with Hurricanes and Im very skeptical about water wind driven rain and that these style are not prone to be forced into the home.

[@jeremyowens95630]

Yea, that is a tough one. I would make sure a window professional guarantees their work. I would order the windows with a replacement fin and install the new window over the existing frame (you will have to cut some of the fin back first). That way, you have some caulking where new fin touches existing window frame. Most of the time this is ok for brick applications because the window is inset enough to avoid the entire force of the wind driven rain.

[@Skiroy]

@@jeremyowens95630 so screw the fin into the old frame? Only caulking? No additional flashing?

[@jeremyowens95630]

@@Skiroy the fastening would be through the inside of the window into brick, no screws exposed from outside of window. The window manufacturer will have instructions on where to fasten and can provide hole plugs to make it more attractive. No other flashing can really be done.

[@Skiroy]

@@jeremyowens95630 are there any window brands that you believe are good for bronze colored frame longevity? Are there any windows in general as far as brand to stay away from?

[@jeremyowens95630]

@@Skiroy The Anderson 100 Series window is good for strength (since it is fibrex) and color options, but they do not make this window with a replacement fin. I am not a big fan of painted vinyl as it scratches easy and most manufacturers will not warrant the paint for long. Since window manufacturers vary depending on location in the US, I would look into who is distributing fibrex or fiberglass windows in your market as they will provide the longevity and color options. Good luck!

[@desert4seat]

5:30 But I have an older log home, so it's my only option I think.

[@jeremyowens95630]

Yes, if the logs go right to window opening, you will have little choice but to install replacement windows. You could add extra wood stops on the outside of the windows to protect them and have them match the siding better.

[@desert4seat]

@@jeremyowens95630 Thanks for the reply! yes, the logs go pretty much right to the opening. I was thinking about breaking out the chainsaw... and making a frame. But that might be too ugly.

[@jeremyowens95630]

@@desert4seat Yea, easy with that! :)

[@bill-nj6fc]

its a shame it cost an arm and a leg to have windows replace, i have 12 that 30 yrs old i just cant afford it

[@jeremyowens95630]

I hear ya, building materials and labor for us have skyrocketed the last 3-5 years.

[@danistr5602]

The worst and disastrous window installation. You did not put membrane all around. The water will infiltrate and will ruin all unprotected wood. A no flange window requires 10 more protection and skill to install. You should delete it. On the bottom you do not put the membrane behind the siding; the water will get behind the siding! It is to be over the siding. This will not pass code!

[@3gtv845]

Thank you for responding to our video. The purpose of the video was to show the difference between nail fin and replacement windows, not to show the different window flashing techniques. As I am sure you know, there are several approved window flashing details (either at the prompting of AAMA, IBC or state and even local building codes) and in Northern California there are some building departments who have or adopt their preferred methods. Shockingly, there are some areas in the east coast that only require house wrap tape to flash their windows and do not even require any flashing tape to protect the wood surfaces. This particular building department wanted us to flash under the fins first, then apply a second layer over the head fin only (we did not show this in the video). Yes, we passed the inspection, as we do on all of our thousands of window units installed over the years. There is a trend in Northern California and some areas in WA and OR that feel if peel-and-stick is not adhered directly to the rough openings’ wood surfaces, water has the potential to travel between the framing and the housewrap. And they believe that the whole point of using a peel-and-stick flashing is to protect the innermost wood components. Probably 999 out of 1,000 windows we flash we use the method that you were probably referring to (flash lower and into house to back dam when possible, then two sides, install window and finish with head flash after). We are big fans of installing siding the right way using premium flashing techniques such as slip sheets for the butt joints, z-bar flashing over all trim and better kick-out flashing where needed to avoid any potential water problems in the first place. With technology advancements and building science I think changes will soon come to the way we wrap and flash homes to assure long-term durability. We are certainly not a company who cuts corners in any way - we never want call backs!

[@brandyoberpriller6659]

People make videos assuming every opening is the same. I been installing windows for 30 years. This guy would not want to sit down with me and show how little he actually knows. The only time a aluminum frame. Is ever left in place is on newer stucco homes because that is a seal you don't want to break. If you want to pay extra thousands of dollars to have your stucco cut back and replaced repainted feel free. Or thousands more if you have stucco banding around those windows. If your stucco is cracking and you pull the frames it will leak. Ever other opening the aluminum frame should be removed. Its ridiculous to assume people are leaving frames in. Any person that tells you you should install flanged windows in sold brick openings is a idiot. Professional installers can remove the old window frame and all. Use their trim break to build a perfect flash pan that will last for ever and install a retrofit window without doing any damage to your brick but if you want to pay thousands of dollars to have brick removed so you can use a new construction window feel free. Hardy or wood siding you always pull the full aluminum frame. Don't assume you can pull off a 1x4 and expose a nailing fin for the old window. Its behinb the siding. You extract the old window without damaging good trim. Anything not under a patio will have a Z flashing that keeps water from getting behind the trim. You measure and cut back the sheetrock so the new window sits back past the face of the hardy. If your tearing everything off then by all means use finned windows. But don't tear your whole home apart because some kid on utube tells you people leave frames in and thinks Professional installers don't know how to give you great garenteed installation without remodeling your whole home.

[@jeremyowens95630]

The point of the video is to answer the question that we get most for window installation types in our market. We do not say replacement windows never work and should never be done, just to be careful and look at the entire exterior as an water management system. We have been installing windows as a family since 1956, so we have some experience... and we have never recommended or torn out stone or brick to install a window, not sure why you made so many assumptions about our video and why the vitriol. I am cool if you want to call me a kid because after 40 that feels pretty good! We have received hundreds of replacement leak calls (done by others) over the years and these clients were never presented both installation methods. It is our job as professional contractors to educate and present facts and options to homeowners and let them decide how they wish to proceed. So perhaps this video is not intended for you. Have a great day!

[@elizabethbetty2662]

Thank you that you educate the customer. Unfortunately my salesman did not educate me. I didn’t ask so I got nothing. Now when I look at my windows from the exterior I want to cry because they ruined the existing style of what I previously had. It looks awful.

[@patromero155]

I bet you don’t like brick mold windows

[@jeremyowens95630]

I don't think any window installer likes brick! :)

[@patromero155]

@@jeremyowens95630 brick mold is a type of frame style 🤦🏽

[@jeremyowens95630]

@@patromero155 Gotcha, I thought you were referring to windows set in brick. I love the look of brickmould replacement frames, much cleaner and stronger frame. In the right situation it can be a great solution.