Unfortunately that doesn't sound like a PCV issue. I would start with reading the codes, there is likely something in there that can help you diagnose the issue. I would also recommend a compression test on all 4 cylinders, I don't know the exact PSI you should see but they should all be within 10% of each other max. Good luck, hopefully it's something simple.

Good to hear you got it taken care of 👍

That's exactly the issue, the average person needs 4x4 maybe a couple times a year. I try to use mine once every couple of weeks now and it seems to help keep it in operation. On the switch, a cheap amazon one is around $20 and would be a good thing to have incase your glue idea doesn't work out. amzn.to/3VPwaQV there's options if you have the diff lock or don't.

@@BCDriven : Thanks for the link BC. Guess what . . cleaned off the two broken plastic posts with alcohol, mixed up a batch of original JB Weld, applied only to the posts, and inserted back into position. Rigged up a walking stick with a pad on the end to apply slight pressure to the rotary switch into the dash for 24 hours. Voila! She's fixed Southern Style. Of course, it may break tomorrow, but it was easy and fun. Thanks for the inspiration. Now I'm fighting a real battle - a 2015 6.7 powerstroke that starts making a terrible buzzing noise- seems to be connected to the transmission but no drivability differences. Suspect something loose. Need help to find it probably unless I am able to step up my DIY game.

I didn't, just a cheap thing to try. The valve should rattle freely and the old one sounded stocky when I shook it. Again just a cheap thing to try. It didn't completely stop the consumption but it did slow it down a lot.

Unfortunately I can't be of any help to you Arthur as that issue isn't one I'm familiar with. I just wanted to say thanks for watching and commenting.

It sounds like it's just the latch like I replaced in the video to me. Is it a powered lift like mine in the video or is it manual lift?

PS the Haynes auto instructs me to take the intake manifold apart LOL I'm not ready to mess with that thing cuz it requires messing around with the fuel rail. Help guys, two obstacles PS and the air vaccumm device. If I can get either one of these two out of the way, I can get to it. The air vaccum is tricky, I think it's attached to to the intake manifold. This is very upsetting Toyota f their design. Every car have PCV on top not tucked behind intake manifold.

Its a pretty janky setup honestly. It's just cut springs/short shocks up front and blocks in the rear. All bump stops are either trimmed or removed and it's still pretty much bottomed out.

Notches in Australia are a bit harder to get cleared so on trimmed bumps it is! Sits nice with the flares

Glad it worked for you, Thanks for the feedback!

Hate to hear you had a bad experience. They were great to work with both sets I've ordered and put on. I even had questions on the factory spacer that comes with the TRE rzrs and they got me an answer via email within an hour or so. I have no affiliation with them I just like their products.

Nice! Glad to hear it's working on the 2010s as well.

Nice! Good to hear and thanks for commenting with your truck info.

Thanks for coming back to leave a comment! Glad you got it fixed.

May not be a permanent solution but it's hard to beat a quick fix lol

Thanks, I avoid those shops as much as possible and just want to give people that same option.

Depends on the headlight and how well the uv coating is applied mine has been over a year and is still really clear but I can tell it's starting to dull just a little. I'm going to reapply the uv coating and see if it'll last a while longer.

Thanks for leaving a comment 👍

Yeah seems like an unnecessarily difficult location to place it.

Glad you got it fixed and thanks for leaving a comment.

Unfortunatley not, that's a slightly difficult one to troubleshoot. It sounds like it could be an issue with the latch not signaling to the actuators that it is opened, therefore the actuators aren't lifting. I can't remember if the hatch has a simple plunger style button like the doors have to signal that it's closed or if the latch itself has a switch built into it. Either that or the actuators are getting weak and not functioning correctly but I feel that failure would be a lot less random. I would open it several times sitting in the back and see if there's any distinction between the times the actuators open and the times the latch lets loose but it doesn't open. Try to see if there's a correlation with interior lights coming on or not or putting slight pressure on the hatch when it opens and see if anything makes it consistently fail or consistently work. Sorry if that isn't helpful.

Is it a knock or more of a tick? My 6.7 always ticked after oil changes and was evidently super common. Google 6.7 oil change tick.

@@BCDriven it’s definitely a knock, Started yesterday so I could move it, Ran scanner, reductant pressure to low, misfire on cylinder 5,Reductant leakage .And bad contribution/Balance

Will take a video in just a few, Have bad truck just over a year ,Has 91k on her

Nice! Glad it worked on the 10' model.

I may have not said it but I always start troubleshooting with checking ALL the fuses, even ones that may not seem related. In my case the fuses were all good so I knew it wasn't going to be that simple.