Great question! Once a year Nikwax treatment is fine for maintance and for some of my watersports this suit still works great and is very comfortable and warm in the car / rigging / on the water. Very easy to pre plan my under layers before the session to stay comfortable for the entire trip including driving. Not a big deal to add or subtract layers in the middle of a session if needed. As the year goes on in between treatments, more and more of the suit stops beading and shedding water. The pits and knees seem to lose the treatment faster due to more rubbing, but other areas can be random. I can do multiple treatments a year with lots of sessions or do a treatment every 1.5 years with less winter water time. The Nikwax treatment is overall easy and affordable to apply. Unfortunately, it does not last as long as I would personally like. This suit is now well over 5 years old "life expectancy for a dry suit with good amout of use is expected to be about 5 years and wet suits are ratted for less time for like new performance as the gas bubbles in the wet suit start to pop depending on the quality and cost of the wet suit" and I still use it for my cold watersports sessions. I may purchase a new Ocean Rodeo Dry suit replacement as I am a big fan of this suit. As of now the suit works great for wadding into the water in and out and a couple of falls off of the board and I stay mostly dry and comfortably warm. For dock starting with friends sometimes my sessions are 3 hours with lots of falls and swimming "dock starting does not come naturally to me so I need a lot of practice" and my suit is a bit too wet for my preference ... but I still stay warm even in the winter. It would be nice if there was a better more permanent "2 years plus" breathable dry suit treatment but I do not know of one. The suit's fabric and seams surprisingly apear to be in good shape. But probably could use a new coating of seam glue in spots ... but I can not tell were. So I do not think this suit is worn out but it would be better suited for a kayaker or a wind watersporter that was more casual and falling was not as common. I could also get a new high quality 5mm ish wet suit for dock start foot pump foiling for cold days and keep this suit for more casual comfortable wind watersports?!? Hope this helps Happy Monday! Jonathan R.

Hey Alfred, Yes, in the relay box in the engine I attached to the red wire with a white line and yellow dots. I am not completely sure on the titles for each wire. I believe this wire is ACC when the key is in and turned one or two positions. With this wire the angel eyes stay on even if the headlights and parking lights are off. For me this is the best setting. There are multiple ways you can set them up based on your preference. The other turn on wire is connected to the interior lights. This is so cool when I unlock and lock the car and the fade "not quite as smooth as a halogen bulb" looks great and also does a bit of a fade. I installed these almost two years ago and they still work and look like new. I am happy! Good luck with your angel eye install! Jonathan R.

Thanks for the question. I am not sure what a reductor is? Do you know if the reductor is also called a transfor caise? If so, I did also change that. The trasfor caise fluid has not been changed in awhile before this video but it did not apear to be needing a change. Still I am glad I changed it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHSrdH2IfbOcb6csi=WBk_D8VMpmih531p Have a great day!

@@jonathanreinke9392 the 2H, 4H, N, 4L gearbox thingy :d, in romanian it's called a "reductor" because it reduces the engine rotation and gives it more torque

Wenn Sie Fehler beheben. Versuchen Sie es zunächst mit den Angel Eyes, die mit Prüfkabeln direkt an die Batterie angeschlossen sind. Dies spart viel Zeit, wenn das Gerät nicht funktioniert. Ich habe festgestellt, dass die Crimpklemmen für elektrische Leitungen, die zum Einspleißen in die M3-Verkabelung vorgesehen sind, keine zuverlässige elektrische Verbindung herstellen. Vielleicht habe ich die falschen Crimpklemmen gewählt. Das Löten der Drähte ging schnell und sorgte für eine solide elektrische Verbindung. Viel Glück beim Reparieren Ihrer Halos! Jonathan R. Why isn't it working for me? When you troubleshoot. First try the angel eyes conectied directly to the battery with tester leads. This will save a lot of time if the unit is not working. I found the electrical wire crimp clips designed to splice into the M3 wireing did not make a reliable electrical conection. Maybe I chose the wrong crimp clips. Solding the wires was fast and gave me a solid electrical connection. Good luck on fixing your Halos! Jonathan R.

Your Welcome Adamzan!

Thanks! I believe the fuel pump does have two relays. It has been a while sence I swapped mine maybe another knows exactly how each relay is used. Eventhough mine were fine I am glad I replaced them preemptively. My fog light relay just went out and I replaced it they work great now. No big deal if my fog lights don't work for a bit. Much bigger deal if my fuel pump does not turn on. Happy Driven! Jonathan R.

Thanks Jordan, your Welcome.

Good call, thanks! 🙂

What’s the name of the glue?

It is 3M trim glue. It has a fantastic long lasting flexibility resistance bond. Unfortunately after some time it can yellow a bit after time. This is slightly noticeable after time. I just "a second ago" checked out the bond and it looks great. They are now off the car in my shed as I have upgraded to LED aftermarket tail lights and they look great. I would recomended you find a clear very strong adhesive that can flex with temperature differences and does not get brittle or change color after time. I do not have a for sure recomendation for you. I would stay away from super glue as it is too brittle. You may give aquaseal a try. www.rei.com/product/139254/gear-aid-aquaseal-fd-repair-adhesive It is a wet suit repair glue that is very strong remains clear after lots of uv exposure and has great flex. Let me know what you end up using. Happy Saturday! Jonathan R.

I got it installed at Torklift Central Trailer Hitch and Welding. 315 Central Ave N, Kent, WA 98032 I towed a 5x8 enclosed trailer with not that heavy of a load for the Mobile Detailing business I used to run. The hitch works well and it was a fun tow veihicle / trailer combo. But I feel a van would have been a smarter / easier to work with choice.

Your Welcome Paulette!

Thanks Graham for your advice 🙂

Hey Mick, Yes, my 1995 WD21 is a manual transmission and it requires automatic trasmition fluid for the transfer caise. You use the same fluid for the automatic and manual. Happy Maintance! 😊 Jonathan, R

Thanks for the request! 🙂

Thanks for watching!

Hey Douglas, It was simmaler to an engine oil change ... put the catch pan in the middle and adjust quickly after the plug bolt is out. 😄 The transfer case was not too messy. I recommend a large dyameter big catch to make it a cleaner oil / fluid change. Happy Projects! Jonathan R.

Thanks for the request! 🙂

Thanks!

Your Welcome Martin!

I did not need to change or reprogram the light control module. These lights from Eagle Eyes only fit the E46 M3 on March 2003 or older. www.ecstuning.com/b-eagleeyes-parts/led-tail-light-set-smoked-red/e462tredledsmk/ I think you are right on in your thought process that if I got this kit for a April 2003 or newer they would not work or they would need some recoding and some soldering /adaptors. But for those newer E46 M3 you have the already nice stock led rear lights. If they needed to be replaced you could just do a simple swap out. They are more expensive though. Anyway, happy modding!

Good advice Stephen, thanks 👍

Nice!

Thanks Ryan! No fun ... My latch has always closed nicely. It does help to get a bit of swing speed to get it to close. It seems to work better vs a slow push. You may want to take a closer look at the latch to make sure it is not bent. You may need to pry bend or do a bit of grinding with a dremell to get the latch to line up. My spare tire is a bit worn out so I decided to remove the whole tire cairer as a temporary try. I am using my Pathy only close to home so not a big deal for me. After removing I got a free little lift on the back and I will adjust the tortion arms to bring up the front about a inch. It now turns in a little quicker as it now has less swing weight. More fun to drive and faster to open the back hatch. Next time I go on a long drive I will probably just throw a in good condition spare in the back hatch. To do it remove the spare first then to remove the 8 bolts. It can be done with one person just be careful when removing as it is heavy. I recomended doing it with 2 people. Just screw in the 8 bolts we're they were and use rubber washer if you want. Might be worth trying if you can not find a easy fix for your latch. Eather way Happy Projects! 🙂 Jonathan R.

@@jonathanreinke9392 Thanks! I'll give that a try 👍

Thanks for your request. I have never foiled Armstrong gear so my opinion may not be too helpful. The Axis PNG 1150 is ratted very highly for wake thiefing. When I owned it I never got into wake theifing so I can not say it is still #1. I suspect the Spitfire 1100 or 1180 depending on your size may take the top spot for wake theifing. Happy Foiling & Shopping! 😊

Thanks for your feedback. I personally like it. But yes, for my next videos I will probably use less or no music. It is editted in the mix of the video so I can't take it off. Anyway, if you have a WD 21 Pathfinder or hard body I hope my content is helpful to you. Have a good Friday. Jonathan R.

@jonathanreinke9392 OK Yes I have a 1995 Pathfinder 4×4, rust free, I'm in the south, just had auto trans rebuilt, great SUV, well put together vehicle, people probably won't like this statement, but I find that most foreign cars have less mantinance problems & last longer than domestic vehicles, just MY opinion...

I agree, Years ago, I was at a Nissan dealer purchasing parts and talking with the parts / severice tech. They recommend that I do not sell my 1995 pathfinder because the 1996 and later are not build as well and require more maintenance and parts repairs. Me also, there are so many major chassis and suspention parts that are completely rust free. There are a few accessory parts that do have rust but they are not hard to replace. All vehicles need maintenance but it seems like there are so many "forever parts" on this SUV. I have owned my Pathy for over 20 years. No plans to sell it but if I do there may be some tears involved. 😅

Thanks Smokey!

Removing them seems easier than masking off the rest of the car to prevent overspray.

I agree, I did not even think about painting it on the car as removing was so easy. I think it would be possible to leave on the car but all the sanding and prep work would be way easier and less risky off of your vehicle. Best of luck and happy project!

Sounds good 😀 I have re-done the crossovers three times after this video, making slight tweaks to the crossover and notch filter. All the sound check tests were done from my phone as I mostly stream from KZbin Music. So my axillary input on my Pioneer deck has a neutral or zeroed out gain on the 5 band equalizer and it sounds so good to me. This deck saves the settings for radio and CD. For radio it sounds best with a +1. 100Hz 0. 315Hz -1. 1250Hz 0. 3150Hz +1. 8000Hz For CD it sounds best with a +1. 100Hz 0. 315Hz 0. 1250Hz 0. 3150Hz -1. 8000Hz The Pioneer deck for each EQ setting gives a + / - of 6 and each number makes a notable adjustment / the difference between -6 and +6 is a big adjustment. I am very happy with each sound setting. A finer adjustment of 10 or 15 +/- would be preferable. A much more accurate and fine tuneability of designing your own crossovers gives way more control so the adjustment is only an issue on the less used music options. It is possible other decks provide a more neutral sound stage between different sorces!?! Anyway, are you looking for more specific info like a sound demo or a deep dive in my crossover design? Have a great day! 😊

@@jonathanreinke9392 not looking for anything specific, but this seems like a really elaborate build, I would love to see the end result once once it done

Your Welcome Zazz

Hi Diego, I am a fan of my 88L Wingboard, it is still the only board I use for Wingfoiling. It works well for me with my Axis ART 1099 and my PNG 1310. With the current increase in popularity of longer and skinnier downwind boards being great for wingfoiling this Starboard longer and skinnerer board is closer in design compaired to some shorter and wider designs. Shorter fuselages and smaller rear wings make a bigger difference in manuvarability vs a lighter board with less swing weight. If you are getting into jumps with tricks a smaller, shorter, lighter board would be better. If you are into fun cruising with casual up and down jumps this board is still great and from what I have found, it is very durable. I will be on the lookout this next season for a used downwind SUP foil board for Wing Foiling. About a 105L board should be great for my size on light wind or steady medium wind days. My Starboard 88L board is a lot of fun and the concave deck is stable and easy to fly with. So I do not know how long I will keep it, probably depends on what type of wingfoiling I will do in the future. As of now I do not have plans to sell it and predict it will be in great shape for many additional seasons. Happy Flying & Happy New Year!

I have compaired the two but I did hear from multiple sorces is that the 1300 is overall better for light wind Wingfoiling as it is a bit faster and a bit more manuvrable. The 1310 should get to flight with a bit less wind but the overall trade off faivors the 1300. The 1310 is a fun wing for Wing Foiling and foot pump foiling. I also have not yet tryed a slippery downwind board for wingfoiling but I suspect the DW board will help me a bunch for getting to flight in light wind. Happy Shopping and Wingen! ... or you could go for the Axis ART Pro 1401!?! 😀

Congrats on 90 seconds Martin! That was about where I was at with my A 1310. I am taking a break right now. I think technique and athleticism are going to be way more important vs which foil you own "as long as it is overall a foil know for being good for dock start foot pump foiling". From what I have read and seen is that foil cross section is just as important or maybe more important vs length, thickness and volume. I have not foiled the Indiana 1396 and have not seen how the foil cross section is designed at different lengths from the center so I can not make an accurate guess. Still, baced on the specs I would not be surprised if the I 1396 had an easier dock launch and a lower stall speed. It would also not surprise me with max foot pumping effort if the A 1310 could obtain a faster max speed and have a bit more manuvarabiliy. To compare how much effort is required per minute to maintain flight on flat water ... I have no idea. It could be different sizes of foilers or different pumping techniques would favor one foil over the other. Anyway 😄 hope this helps. If you find a foil that gets you to your next time / distance goal, let me know. Happy Foiling! 😊

@@jonathanreinke9392 Thank you very much. I was hoping that the problem is the material and not me!!! LOL Was very helpful! Cheers.

I had parts that worked together after some disassembly. Happy sailing!

Thanks! My wheels are from a 2006-2010 M5 / M6 E63 / E64. I have a wheel spacer on the back. Front wheel alignment is good stock. Here is a set on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/225813765708 My tires are 255/35R19 front and 295/30R19 rear. They do not rub but I would not go bigger. I like the way these look a lot. Especially with the wide tires and the 295 wide in the rear looks so good from the back. Driving is very sure footed. I am thinking of getting a second set of 17" forged light weight wheels with much thinner tires. This would help for accelerating and increase the looseness and overall driving dynamics. Rotational weight makes a big difference. Let me know what wheels and tires you end up getting.

You're welcome Yes, it did. It was less twitchy and more easy to maintain stable pumping. I did not notice a difference on speed. Have a good one 😊

Thanks Base! Most of my driving is in the superbs. So it is not a big concern for me if high beam output is reduced. Although when high beams are on the lowbeams stay on so the highbeams still make it brighter than not having then on so not a big deal. For fun I plan to get a super bright LED H7 bulb to replace the halogens with. If this future LED bulb has a partial or full micro projector built the stock reflector would be bypassed. It could be brighter vs a halogen bulb with chrome reflector ... and this mod makes the front look so good ... in my opinion. These bulbs are a new thing but maybe there will be one in a high beam version as these have a nice and sharp cutoff. BraveWAY H7 LED Headlight Bulbs Clear Cut-Off LED Lights With Lens(Projector) Super Bright High Power LED Bulbs 6500K Cool White Lamp with Fan, Low Beam Replacement Kit a.co/d/2R0lCBd These are fast to plug in to try. If they work well with my 2001 M3 without an additional CANbus and if I can angle them up it may be great. Or these are so much brighter the black may not make a big difference. Fahren H7 LED Headlight Bulbs, 60W 14000 Lumens Super Bright LED Headlights Conversion Kit 6500K Cool White IP68 Waterproof, Pack of 2 a.co/d/f4771UU The plastidip gives a slight yellow hue so slightly blue color temperature will be fine. Let me know if you find a highly rated H7 LED Projector designed for a high beam. Jonathan R.

Cool thanks 😊

I agree, Eric is a cool dude!

Good call, I agree with your ideas Michal. My 95cm carbon mast is still holding strong with the drilled holes. After drilling the holes, I contacted Starboard and they told me the side holes are only for a specific deep tuttle mast adapter and was not nessary for my mast. The side holes are for the V7 aluminum mast. They also said the drilled holes should be fine with the 2 extra screws. I did not do real weight twisting test with or without the side screws, so I am not totally sure. I have a feeling that the extra side screws do add some roll stability as the side thickness of aluminum mount is not extra thick. I could also with my hands squeeze in the deep tuttle part in some so maybe after time it could have wore out or stretched out??? If you are getting one for your setup you may want to try the mount without drilling the two extra holes. You may find roll / pitch / yaw have plenty of stiffness. I now use Axis for dock start foot pump foiling / Wing foiling / fun focused Winsurf foiling. Axis has great cross compatability with their gear and usually great quality control. Starboard race foil is still better for Windsurf foiling when average speed / max speed / getting around a race course with steady 9 mph of wind or more. Happy Foiling! 😊

All 4 are 131mm. I did a bunch of reasurch and scoured photos of the different sizes and for me personally I think the same size and 131mm looks the best! Happy Projects 😊

Thank you sir!

You push from to top down to release the clip. Pull out at the same time. You can use the oval hole in the top inside of the fender. The way the clip works with the main head light is weird. BMW made a good move to switch to a single screw instead of a clip for later modles. Once the clip is in it stays. As you reinstall you need to make sure the clips are lined up perfectly and slighty pushing the turn signal towards the headlight helps to make sure the clip does not come out. If it does not feel smooth try to realign the clip as forcing it does not work if it is not aligned correctly. Take your time on these and go slow as you get the feel for it. Good luck 🙂

Thanks Jeff, yup on my to do list. 😊

Good call. I think you are totally right. Without the whole seat it is easier to get a feel for how to pull out the base seat. If I pull up on the front of the back seat just right then pull forward mine comes out without removing the full back seat. For some reason, I was under the impression I needed to pull up on the back of the back seat first and I was wrong. Thanks for the great advice! 👍

You got it! Wire labeling kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJS0p2t_h86XlaMsi=lpUwtDIlGV-x0e7r Stereo upgrade kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZrPZXZqrq6Cl8ksi=tT5mk9j9PCvooBKK 😊

I am glad this helped. It could be your controller is bad and you might find a used one at a junk yard or on ebay. Replacment antennnas have the controler built in so you can bypass this and run directly from a aftermarket radio. You may be able to find a oem style power antenna that is still working ... I am not sure. Here is what I did to fix mine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJOccmmXlMidq80si=49sffgRD3tySQi4u This aftermarket antenna was easy to install and affordable. Build quality was not that good. Maybe I got a bad one. It still works but I think a different brand of this same style may be a better option. Have a great day!

No, mine are still amber. I was thinking a light smoke over amber would be nice compromise. Three Wine Cats, what do you think would look best?