@@basicfever95davis4 all is well. Thanks. Check the links in the description

@CobraRacingRC yes sir I seen both I'm gonna buy it for the jato 4x4 it should be a great upgrade correct

@ it is a great upgrade. Just double check that they will fit the Jato. If it’s the same part as the slash or rustler 4x4 then they will fit.

@@willisluckey4328 welcome and thanks for watching 😊

@@cowboy21745 all you need is the 12mm hex. Doesn’t matter axle size. If you’re running 12mm hex these will fit.

No these are 6mm offset

@@Chuck-tl6no we’ll find out in the next 3-4 weeks when the product is released. Will make a video on it and should be available on our site by then as well.

Ya always something new to learn. It's my favorite part of the hobby. Thanks for the support ❤

👊

Absolutely! Everybody has their thing that works for them. No one size fit all 😀

@CobraRacingRC you have great videos, I enjoy watching and trying new ideas. Your idea topping off the shock fluid with diff fluid works pretty slick on my slash✌️ probably won't try it on my crawler because I have desert lizards dialed a little slower for that so they unload slower to avoid roll overs.

For sure...lots of tips / tricks out there to get the setup you want. Of course you can go and get different springs, or maybe a higher weight oil in general. But this is more of a "hack" for those that don't want to buy new springs and they already have some diff oil somewhere in their cabinet. It gives you basically a similar result as new springs.

@@Portapottypossum no this is the complete differential. So only thing you need. Would recommend you open it up though and top it off with grease, or use diff fluid.

Wtf does traxxas have to do with anything? Stupid hate for the sake of hating. I've never seen anyone do this to shocks, regardless of what brand shocks..

Misconception for the most part (for me personally). When bashing, your shocks are responsible for dampening the impact (they go up and down as you hit your jumps). So arms move with the shocks. Only time plastic is better than aluminum is if you hit something head on (like a wall). No bend or flex means you’ll probably crack your chassis or something else). But if you can avoid head on hits you’ll be fine. Aluminum arms are also suited for on-road and on the track (from personal experience). Strictly my opinion, and I respect yours 👍

@@GreyCrossfield-ts3xn i did bleed it out off camera. Cut for speed. Rebound is coming from the thick mixture. But you are correct if you have air trapped in without bleeding you’ll get some rebound. But just a little bit.

I guess that could be a separate video. Not really hard to do though - just got to take out old diff box and swap with this one. You can reference Traxxas’s exploded view diagram to help you out, or youtube it 😀

Thanks for watching 🙏

@@Chon-c no offense taken. Think I mentioned in the video that softer springs is better for bashing. So yes you are correct, tighter shocks is more for on-road, or for the track, then for hard bashing. Or stiffer in the rear and soft in the front will also work for bashing. Mostly user preference.

@ Not softer springs is. Harder is better for bashing . But you mainly also want to have ZERO REBOUND FROM THE REBOUND IN THE SHOCKS . It’s easy to get that rebound like you got in the vid . Just put oil in it and twist the cap on without letting the oil out gas the oxygen bubbles that is under the piston because it’s drawn down to refill & needs to set for the oil to soak through the holes or around the piston itself (depending on cst thickness on how bad that happens. The Thicker it is ,the more air you’ll have in the bottom because it takes time to soak around & through the piston holes ) ,or put a lot of air in them by shaking the oil bottle before you add it in the shock & then not letting them set and bubble up to release & then throw out the diaphragm bulb in the cap if you really want it to bounce as if it has a spring inside the shock. Which you also can do too if ya want . Lol. A spring inside. But limits travel. But zero rebound stops or heavily limits bounce when landing. Which in turn means not turning over as much but also keeping wheels on the ground . Because you want the piston to resist the same or almost the same amount both ways from the very beginning of rebound .

Ya more then one way to do it for sure - this is usually the easiest for me though cuz I always have diff fluid on me, and it allows me to really dial in the stiffness just right depending on how I am planning on driving the car. Thanks for watching 😊

If you run your truck into a wall at high speed, arms will be the last thing you need to worry about. These are toys doing real car speeds, a large percentage of the community use them outside their reliable means and they also have no idea what vehicle maintenance is. These parts will cop abuse but they will also transfer impact load to the next weekest link. Drive your cars in a sensible but fun manor and you will be fine.

Oh I know been in this hobby for 30 years

@@EYESWIDEOPEN00for bashing alum arms won’t cause you to break other parts as shocks are responsible for dampening. Now hitting a wall dead on is a different story and in that case you’ll want plastic arms, cuz aluminum will most likely cause you to crack your chassis or break other parts (agree on that). I use aluminum arms for on-road and on the track and have yet to break anything due to the arms. So how you drive matters as well 😊

@@spike-- ❤️

@@fonicgaming6787 yes we are currently doing some R&D on them at the moment, and plan to offer them in the future.

That is awesome to know! I’ll be looking forward to their release!!😎

@@andreylovyn3527 these are made for the 4x4 vxl. However, if you are running the xtreme duty driveshaft then yes these won’t fit.

@CobraRacingRC interesting must be a stock option for the vxl now cuz I never changed the drive shaft since I bought it about 2 weeks ago. Would the knuckles work with the cvd drive shafts yall sell? I ordered some of those earlier just waiting for them.

@ yes they will fit

@CobraRacingRC perfect thank you!!

Most likely not. For the maxx slash you’ll need to run the traxxas maxx hex hub extenders. Just go to our website and search maxx hex hubs. Should come up.

I wouldn't initially.. 3700 kv is decently hot especially if you bump up to 3s . Just go out and drive it . Tuning is something a lot of people leave out of the process of upgrading. Just go out and enjoy it . The way it drives will tell you what you need

No need to touch the pinion. Only reason you’d gear up is if you are looking for a higher top speed. But gearing up also means potentially running hotter. So unless you have a specific reason for gearing up, I wouldn’t touch it personally.

Yes it will fit

@CobraRacingRC Perfect! Thank you!

@@andreylovyn3527 welcome 😎

@@spike-- thats how we roll 😊

@@CobraRacingRC Eyeing up your 6s kraton parts for a winter project. Some 2wd rustler parts would be great. Got you book marked for future parts for sure!

@ happy to hear. If you need anythibg feel feel to reach out ❤️

@@CobraRacingRC I'll be reaching out with my wallet 😁

@@Negern91 it’s complete with diff fluid (ready to go). We don’t use traxxas parts. All parts used are Cobra Racing parts (hardened material). 54T spur 32 pitch. Same as traxxas center diff oem..

The new Minimaxx uses the same parts as the 4x4 family for the center differential except the spurgear (mini 47t, 4x4 54t). That's why I'm asking😁👍🏽.

@ you can probably gear up the mini to 54t and gear down on the pinion to compensate. As long as spur diameter is same size (and won’t bind anywhere) you can make it work.

They are the same pitch (so same size for same tooth count) and the MiniMaxx won't allow a 54t to fit in there unfortunately :).

@ gotcha 👌

Ya who doesn’t 😃. Won’t affect your suspension so it won’t restrict your truck from bottoming out.

@@djsnooks4418 haven’t tried to put before the nut, but threadlocker is your best bet for locking nut into place.

Hey - The extra weight with these center diffs is negligible. You shouldn’t over heat unless there is something else going on. Check gear mesh, and if that is good then most likely you’re geared too high and need to gear lower. These center diffs are thicker than normal spurs (which is great because it creates better contact with pinion). That adds a bit more weight but only slightly and as mentioned is negligible in the grand scheme of things. While all our parts are plug and play everybody has a slightly different set up. So you still need to fine tune things to dial it into your rig. And that goes for any part on the market.

@CobraRacingRC i bought all metal drivetrain and centre diff was running on original velinon and it was cooking so i upgraded to 4s and ran it on 3s hoping to stay cool but still it cooked, i took the diff out to ckean basically and couldn't get it back in so put ghe slipper back in just to use it for that day and its been fine since, i think i just found a limit that this truck cant go past tbh