The vin number for the motor on this model was on the right side and it was a sticker vs a metal plate. That is all the info I can remember. As for schematics, Google is the best search engine and you will find something similar if not the same model. Parts were shared across different models to keep product cost down, typical manufacturing technique. Happy Holiday to you as well!!

Before you buy, look at the warranty, how it's made (process of painting) and does the manufacture stand behind the product. The best way is really to buy a trailer is from manufacture directly. Manufactures who get rid of the middle man (dealer network) will stand behind their product and have a better warranty. My Proline Trailer is made in New Hamshire and have the best warranty. If you buy from a dealer, the dealer cannot fix major issues, they have to run a claim thru the manufacture and well, we know what the outcome will be on that claim,...denied. Buyer is left holding the bag and dealer will not help, they just sell the trailers, not fix the trailers. Proline Trailers uses no dealers, if there is an issue, I deal with them directly. If the trailer is ever damaged in an accident, they will repair it (only Proline trailer, they will not repair other manufactures products) and they will work with my insurance company to cover cost. Find this kind of relationship with a utilty trailer maker and you will have a better made product with a company that cares, hands down.

The ramp is not steep at all so the snow flap is never and issue. I just back the sled up, then once I have 75% of the sled in the trailer, I align it correctly on the guides and finish loading it in. I make sure I have enough motentum going backwards so I do not spin the track. I have yet to have a issue after 1 season. What is very important is the trailer (like all trailers) should be hitched level to the ground. If the hitch on the truck is much higher to a level trailer tongue, then a drop hitch is needed. Never tow a trail slanted upwards, it has a great chance of fish tailing at highway speeds plus a higher risk of damaging the underbelly of the trailer on a steep change in grade like going from the road to a steep driveway. I saw this today where the trailer was attached way to high on a trucks hitch and the guy tore the trailer jacks off the rear corners.

I will since I bought the car from my son this year. :-)

My pleasure!

Thanks!

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped

I'm guessing 6-7 feet.

Yes they do

Much appreciated!

Directly from a Ski doo dealer.

Thank you very much!

Nah, I'm good. To busy building other wood projects. Thank you though for offering!!

Glad it helped!

Very good advise. Thank you

No, a little had to be removed so it was not a tight. I was flexing the pipe because of the running length.

Agree, it is hard to find one that is as heavy duty but not a commercial grade in the current price range. No dealers? That's a stupid move but,... my guess is to keep cost down for the consumer. My enclosed snowmobile trailer is made this way, but the manufacture is a few hours away drive so if I have a issue, they know I can be at their door step pretty quick. You will find you'll need to modify the table over the usage. If so, find a good welder near you to do the work. Stay on top of the mainteance and this splitter will last for decades.

@@bigguydiy2184 That's for the tips. I'm blessed that I have a great welder near me after my former go-to welder just retired.

Still has not broken though for me. In the future, should I break it, I'll make one, but finding a good grade U-Bolt might be a long search.

It was a dead tree that stood too long as well. Ended throughing most into a fire pit.

There is a very active Donzi Club that meets every year on Lake George, NY. I believe the club is based out of Lake George. They always have a very large turnout of boats. I know this one the motor and drive were updated, but now it sits at Mystic Seaport Museum in Mystic, CT in a new power boat display.

Glad it was helpful!

6 way, never seem one of those! Must be pretty cool. I like the old stuff. Has way more character than the current crap sold today.

Its not a waste if the lights last longer than a regular bulbs. Regular bulbs corrode with in 2 years of sitting even if covered with di-electric grease. I have replaced a lot of trailer lights over to LED even if the light still works. Most are pretty corroded inside the assembly and that corrosion is carried into the copper wiring (water intrusion).

Good luck, do not rush, take you time and observe how things are put together.

Nice, when ever I breaak this one, I'll fabricatre a new one.

That suxs. Very frustrating as an owner we try to keep these vehicles a little longer than planned.

@@bigguydiy2184they dont want us to repair our own equipment . Going to make this repair when my part arrives . Thank you , good video

Glad it helped!

Sorry, I do not know. I was able to take the original belt to a power equipment place and had them measure the belt for size (width) and length.

@bigguydiy2184 Mine Broke and stretched out, so I tried. 49-inch belt, and that's way too tight. Guessing game now.

Sorry to hear that. You can fabricate one by buying a galvinized U-Bolt from like, Amazon or E-Trailer.com, that will fit around your hitch. If you have a really good Hardware store, they to may have a selection of U-Bolts. Stay away from the Zinc cover U-Bolts, they do not have the tensil strength. As for the bottom plate, I would use 1/4" steel that will be long enough to fit under the hitch and the received. Then have someone weld a small piece at each end and drill 2 holes for the U-Bolt to pass thru. If no one can weld, have the ends bent up around 30-45 degrees. The ends will press up against the receiver and hitch and the U-Bolt will make is super snug. If you have a metal shop near by, they can create the steel plate for a very reasonable cost. My Trimax is still holding on so far and my max weight so far on it has been around 6500-6700lbs.