I like to wire my boiler for cold start. Instead of jumper on tt terminal. To me saves fuel

My neighbor and friend is a plumber so I got him coming tomorrow. My oil burner goes fast then back to normal speed goes fast back to normal speed so I told him I think it’s dirty nozzle. He says you’re probably right. We’ll change it tomorrow but who knows it could be so many things

That’s years of experience right there great job

I wish my baseboard heaters had individual bleeder valves, I cannot get heat through all of mine, I called and got a “certified” person to come out and service it but within 10 minutes I knew he had no clue how to properly work on gas boilers, he ended up flipping the fast fill handle and the boiler started jumping 3-4 inches off the ground from it being hot?? I’ve pretty much been freezing this cold spell

Does the boiler have to be on to develop pressure or can you bleed it with regular water pressure ?

Get the fluxinator

Better than a ProPress!

Beautiful truck Sir

You did it right

This man has the perfect commentary

You did it wrong

Motor upside down. No one thought to put some isolation valves before abd after the pump to avoid this mess on the next go round? Y'all did remember to video this abomination though

You're cute as a new born puppy .🎉

Smart!

Looks good did you insulate the suction line outside

Wet/dry vaccum. Smh

They are super handy!!!

& stir it once in awhile

Wish something like that would be invented for the lanair.

My old williamson has been doing something similar to this but maybe half as fast. I will be putting a new primary on and seeing how it acts from there. As my burner was lighting and shutting off constantly with good flame, i could see a flash of light inside of the primary box around where the red reset button goes through the top of it.

Use heat and a crayons

Nice!

Sweet

Ist no joke to choke the yoke for common folk

Very informative!

So I would have to wait until the water gets warm? I let the valve open until the water came out then immediately stopped it

Nice video, but I do not see any information on your website about rebuild kit. Could you please post it?

Propane guy here.. i would love to see more propane video

I have a question for you guys please, i have a old New Yorker furnace " NY 151 " ( over 30 years old) that it is type that heats the house and also provide hot water for house use( like shower, sinks) , it is duel type furnace( i call it), now i see split supply water comes in one goes through PRV to the boiler one through side to the side of the boiler , i wonder when i bleed the system from Air, do i have to shut down one this valve so no more water goes to the heating loop . Is this system that you just cleaned in this video, does it heat and provide hot water for house use or just heats ?

Thanks for that great video one of the most helpful videos out there on KZbin

Thanks for making such a detailed video. I wish i had known about this years ago, would have saved a lot of money overhauling my clogged up pre heater blocks. I have about 3 more to do . Just finished the first one. I found that that little star clip in the origional small blocks is pretty hard to get out. Glad your kit has a snap ring. One question, it seems hard to get the junk out of them even soaking them in Berryman carb cleaner. What do you use to clean them up?

NICE VIDEO I

I bought a year’s membership in the ITC a few years ago. I did not renew because as a woodworker, I didn’t receive much value towards tools and supplies for my hobby. I still shop a HF a lot, but mostly during the big parking lot sales. HF has really stepped up their game with many power tools that I need/use.

You didn’t say replace O ring is good idea.

I would like to see how to set the Electrodes

Have you guys tried using automotive combustion chamber cleaner? I use it to clean carburetors and it dissolves varnish,green crap,brown crap etc in no time....usually let sit for 20 mins or so

8:18 😧😧😧

I have a Williamson oil burner furnace (not a boiler) with a Beckett burner installed in 1996 and maintained every year (we built this house and still live here). This thing is super clean and it has new electrodes properly adjusted with the Beckett tool, a new electronic igniter/transformer and the flame sensor has been tested and working but I will replace that also since it’s so easy. The issue I have right now after it was serviced and the items I mentioned replaced, a few weeks later it tripped and I noticed that because it was cold this morning. I pressed the button on the controller to reset it and I saw a flame for just one or two seconds and then the flame went out, so I powered it off. Knowing all the items I mentioned were replaced/new, it seemed like a fuel issue to me so I cracked open the bleeder screw at the pump and fired it up and sure enough the fuel was foamy so I bled it until it was just fuel and no longer foamy. After that I started it up and it’s been fine all day. I confirmed all the connections are tight. Not a drop of fuel anywhere (and it's always been like that...really clean). I’m a little suspicious about whether or not they have been changing that oil filter in the canister because it looks suspiciously clean around that area where the filter is installed and maybe a few cobwebs on it also. Maybe they’ve been a little leery about doing it because it’s harder to bleed because the tank is in the basement but the copper line runs up along the ceiling of the basement and then back down to the furnace and at the bottom of the furnace is where they put the canister filter and then of course the copper line connects to the pump on the burner. I’m just looking for some possible explanations for while all of a sudden the the fuel was foamy, could it truly be that oil filter in that canister getting clogged?

Thanks for this video. Was debating on ordering from this exact company. Other ones Ive seen ordered by coworkers have fitment issues but this looks to fit perfect!

Thanks for the service info and reminding us who the world's savior is.

The steps in the video are a little out of order so I am sorry about that but it doesn’t change anything. Blow out your lines first than drain the water heater and put your valves in bypass . Then the red anti freeze. Thanks for watching

You said furnace but it's a water heater no less and a cold water heater

Can this be done in an apartment baseboard heater?

How come you didn’t put plug in oil heater and put 300 watt air heater in causes less carbon to plug up tip. That is what most guys are doing on HS and Wedco burners.

They should have an additional bleed port by the burner as well. I've seen oil burners detonate trying to light off that way. The joys of the trade.

Look on his face is where’s your PPE

So would you change the heat exchanger or just replace the furnace?

That's the stuff you used to get for free with a purchase before membership days

Good stuff for the upcoming techs

Thank you!