Very impressive work.

How about applying a thrust bearing, or redesigning the rotator that bearings are indirectly under stress or contact with the load.

Very nice work sir

Fume issues wiht the hardener?

man I love this press brake design!!! not only quality but that it works on one hydrolic cilinder and the open sides of course. Could you explain more about the connection points, barings, and back of the design. In any case, very much concratulations with this excellent piece of engineering !

Great tools you have made. Can you maybe make a video where you explain more in details about the threading adapter. I would like to know how the clutch works.

Alex, If you ever find a spare steady rest for sale for a V13, please let me know. I have been searching forever. They are impossible to find in North America (Canada)

Top job Alex ,glad your video popped up on my feed ,cheers John 👏👍😎🇦🇺🐈‍⬛

And I thought I had OCD!!

This is a great video, however the ending was rushed. I have a 1930's IXL Leader lathe with 6tpi lead screw. However this machine is flat belt driven so there is no reverse. I have to confess I got lost with the math at the end... if I understand it correctly if I am cutting 2mm pitch I have to wait for 40 revolutions? How does you dial indicate when the 40 revolutions has passed exactly? I would love to know how the old timers cut metric threads on these lathes with no reverse, no brake etc. I believe how they did it is to stop the lathe after the cut and use the tumbler reverse to reverse the lead screw, making sure to engage on the same number as the carriage is reversed.

Very nice work sir

i am the non metric version of v13 same switch setup magnetically released break on the motor 2speed motor but there is no momentary power button as indicated in the generic manual we were able to find on line that is a 44page pdf i am hoping you know of another version that is available as step up for us and having a very spars operation instructions is a frustration (simply seeing the proper tool for oiling the carnage will make my life easier) though this barbarian will stick with his felt wipers i tend to run 2 stacked on top of one another a soft one made from winter boot liners with a denser felt used for gaskets behind it the soft one removes easily and is more of grit catcher and i punch them out as needed (farm shop) even whey trying to stay clean we are at best dealing with dust and chaff from equipment as it is dissembled and tracked around. i am very glad i found your channel and hello from Vermont usa

honestly this is amazing. I don't suffer from it but .. super interesting.

Why did you have to change from pressing that (I don't know what you call it) to hitting it?

I have Maximat 11 lathe. When I was at work, the lathe also had the miling head. I found that the column for this head lacked the rigidity required for milling even very small parts. Is your milling head more rigid on Maximat 13? On the D1-4 spindle plate, I see what looks like an oil sight-glass on the moving part. This would not permit mounting chucks. What are these for? Modification I made on my lathe was to add a detent to the right gear-shift lever to permit putting the gearbox in neutral, to make manual turning of the spindle easier & for another layer of safety when changing chucks.

awesome work

Good to see a vid from you pop up again. I was struggling with the exact issue yesterday. Very nice job!

always a good day when a new video drops. Österreich to make a deep run at the euros!

when not using a part around a bearing, we generally use a cam follower whose part number starts with "CF". Ball bearings have thin cage, while cam followers have a thick external cage that doesn't deform when pushed with a line contact.

Excellent job, Alex.

Well thought out modification, very nice!

Lovely job, I would really like to do the same for my V10P, those bronze bearings really annoy me.

Thanks for the video from North Wales 😊

You might want to know that brake cleaner is good for the initial clean, but not before paint. You should use a final wipe of something like acetone, alcohol 99%+, ... Because brakecleaner contains a minute amount of acid (I think is the cause if I remember) which could lead to imperfections like bubbles, adherence issues, ... I recently repainted my machine and did loads of research before hand. I also have experienced the issues I read about when I did another machine years ago. Though take this with a grain of salt; i am merely a perfectionist amateur with an internet connection

Nice 👍

Fingers - definitely not quills.

I really love the content and quality of your videos! This one is no exception. Although I'm sure the addition of ball bearings will meet your needs, in a pinch, some suggest using a slip of oil-lubricated "brown paper bag" between plain bronze "support arms" and fragile/soft work to prevent marring. The rigidity of the plain bearing is preserved and surface finishes aren't compromised. Here is a short example of the technique: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKvTfIOLZZ2Ff8U, fast forward to 12:45. Just a thought. F.C.

why ball bearing over a yoke roller/support roller ?

Whenever I go looking for burrs with my thumb, I find them 🩸👍

Hi where can we buy these pieces of wiper material?

Nice work and good video 👍😀. But in many jobs brass "fingers " is better than using bearings. In my work I used to do a lot of hydraulic cilinders and push rods. And when turning push rods with chrome finish it was best to use brass instead of bearings. Bearings always left marks on the chrome surface 😢. But bearings work better on mild steel with rough surfaces. 2 years ago a machinist on the facebook group " KZbin machinists " explained the how and why when you should use brass or bearings.😀

holy crap...I could not for the life of me figure out how to scrap but now this makes so much sense....I was using aluminum and carbon steel!

nice job ! cheers ben.

Nice quality of life upgrades.

It's always really nice to see a new video from you Alex. Who of us haven't trusted a supplier to send us the correct parts and then tried to use them without checking them?

That was really clever drilling through the back of the part to remove the web from the slot for the bearing I'll need to keep that in mind. I need to make a steady rest for my big lathe 20.5in swing, I can't find a factory one to save my life!

Perfekt! 👏

I always enjoy watching your channel , thank you

How do you do the chamfers on a lathe?

Thank you so much for sharing.

👍👍😎👍👍

Thanks for sharing your work and knowledge, I enjoy watching your videos and learn from them a lot, you're at the top of my list with Robin and Stefan. Much appreciated. I was wondering what kind of lube (white grease?) did you use? Thanks again.

Hy Alex! you are Absoulte Underrated on youtube ! i love your videos ! Greets from Vienna !

Beautifully designed Alex.

I liked the video in the first seconds just for the joy that you released a new video! Strongly apreciate your work!

always enjoy your videos Thanks a lot

I enjoyed and liked this video the first time I watched it. Now, I'm studying it for all the details. I find myself with a new old lathe, a Monarch CK12. Hopefully I will be able to do something like your fine job

Where's the rest of the build videos for the press brake? Would love to see more of that

That's a great explanation of the threading dial. My metric Colchester Bantam didn't come with one, and your video inspired me to design one for my lathe. I'll only utilise the two metric dials. Thank you for making this video.

That was amazing watching that part being made.